Sunday 07 March, 2021 Deep Cove to Deas Hut (Thompson Sound)
Arrived yesterday by Real Journeys ferry to Deep Cove. For the 2nd solo leg through Fiordland. Said goodbye to Shaz again. This time at Manapouri.
Shaz seeing me off at Manapouri. Heading for Deep Cove.
We had just spent 9 days touring Catlins and Southland. On a rest and recuperation tour. Soft bed and good food. With a high fat content preferably. Like salami and cheese. In the fridge! I had lost a fair amount of weight during the 19 day effort from Orepuki to Deep Cove.
On the bus and over the Wilmot Pass. Steady rain sets in. It was calm at Deep Cove even though there are northerlies forecast for today. On arrival I checked in on Secala. Still there and still ship shape. Nothing appears tampered or missing. Good start.
View from Deep Cove Hostel
I checked in with Billy (Hostel Manager) who said the sea conditions in the Sound would be good today. I was encouraged to make an immediate start back towards Gut Hut (4 hour paddle) but not convinced with Billy’s assessment. Asked if he could raise the Real Journeys day tour on VHF; who were currently out in the Sound. They reported back that there were 15-20kt northerlies in the Malaspina Reach. Thought so. I will be staying in the Hostel tonight. As expected. And make an early start in the morning. To Deas Hut (Thompson Sound) hopefully. About 6 hours paddle. Will be HW at about 0630 tomorrow morning.
When the rain eased I set about re-organising and packing Secala ready for the morning. It’s an easier pack with less provisions required for this leg to Milford Sound. Hopefully!
Deep Cove Hostel is $40 per night + $10 wifi (250MB). The rooms are comfortable and the facilities good. A big communal kitchen and really well heated. Would be a good place to spend a couple of days doing walks and day paddles maybe. Up Hall Arm or Crooked Arm.
Sunday 7th March – Up at 0530, breakie of muesli, banana and tea. I change into my paddle gear inside my room. I have dried my damp wetsuit, Adrenaline top and socks in my warm room overnight. The easiest transition into paddle gear I have ever had. Warm dry gear and no sandflies. But I’m going out into light rain. With paddle jacket on, I finish loading Secala by headlamp. The tide is well in. I will have the advantage of the ebb tide today. By 0700 there is sufficient daylight to launch and off we go into the mist, cloud, light rain and mirror calm water.
Leaving Deep Cove looking down Doubtful Sound. Rolla Island to left of bow. Elizabeth Island on right of bow.
As I exit Deep Cove the sun rises behind me. And behind the cloud shrouded mountains. It’s loom emerges stronger revealing the huge landscape with layers of mist and cloud. I stop paddling. Take a moment. There are more waterfalls now. Spilling out of the mist. The atmosphere is surreal. From another time. It’s so eerily quiet too. The occasional solitary bird chatter breaks the silence and reverberates across the Sound. Confirming life and breaking a blissful trance. A dinosaur could lift its’ head out of the tree canopy; or mist, at any moment. And I wouldn’t blink an eye. Not such a stretch of the imagination.
Real Journeys overnight cruise boat returning to Deep Cove base through the passage inside Elizabeth Island.
At around mid morning the mist rises on the eastern slopes, with the sun breaking through often now. This adds all sorts of perspective to the landscape. I take photos. Often. In the hope of capturing the frequent changes of light. And the perfect image. They are all perfect. Entire scenes change perspective, depth, contrast and beauty within seconds. So often when finished taking a photo; I am taking the same, but different, scene again. Within seconds. I soon give up; and just enjoy the moments.
Waterfalls are under flood now. Magnificent. This is waterfall heaven. I’m a waterfall junkie. What a wonderful paddle.
Cloud lifting down Malaspina ReachTurning into Pendulo Reach towards Thompson Sound. Seymour Island on the left.
Back at the major junction of Doubtful Sound, I turn to starboard and into Pendulo Reach, towards Thompson Sound. As I pass Seymour Island I see there are good looking beaches on my right between Espinosa Point and Pack Point. Then Bradshaw Sound extends an invitation out on the right; as I enter Thompson Sound. So many options to explore go begging. Another day; maybe. Hopefully!
Thompson Sound
Thompson Sound is calm. Initially. Secretary Island provides a buffer to the ocean and the rising SW wind. About a quarter of the way up the Sound a large spectacular waterfall spills from Secretary Lake. More stops and more photos.
Waterfall from Secretary Lake
The SWly is intensifying over the top of Secretary Island now. Sending strong wind gusts down the steep ravines and across Thompson Sound. The gust direction is influenced by the shape of the ravine. Sometimes a cross wind; sometimes a head wind. They are easily read. A preemptive grip on the paddle, thigh brace and lean, sees them through.
It will be rough outside today. I will stay somewhere in Thompson Sound. I’m targeting Deas Hut, but Pandora River is a good alternative. Just 30 minutes further up the Sound. One option is a shared Hut (potentially); the other a solo camp.
Half way up Thompson Sound. This is the only ship I see during the whole trip. Looks like a research vessel.Deas Cove Hut
There’s always a compromise when sharing a hut. The key one for me is around sleep patterns. I’m usually early to bed and early to rise. Earlier than most. And it’s important for me to get early starts on paddle days. To get the best of the conditions. And minimise the chances of getting caught out, if they escalate. That this region is renowned for. That I experienced at Puysegur. After a late start.
There are a couple of boats anchored in the Cove. It could be busy. I get up to the hut and there are 3 hunter/fishermen (Matt, Steve & Finn) from Kapiti in this 10 bunk hut. I have a chat and they make me a cup of tea. Good buggers. I decide to stay. They said that last night the hut was full of young guys on a bender. They moved out for the night.
The boys are off for a dive and fish this afternoon. Hope they do well. Selfishly!
This is a short day for me as I sit out the strong SW. Tomorrow they are meant to ease for my intended trip outside to Caswell Sound. I have all the afternoon to enjoy the area. While the boys are away fishing, I gather and chop a good amount of firewood and light a fire in the potbelly. To warm up the fishermen on their return. Brownie points. Might earn me a feed.
There are a couple of very friendly fantails here. Following me around. I get the solar panels out during the sunny afternoon. After tomorrow there is a weather front rolling through. So I use every opportunity to charge the devices. Am hoping to be tucked into Caswell Sound tomorrow; to sit out the weather.
Deas Cove looking south into Thompson Sound.Neck Cove. Looking north through the entrance to Thompson Sound.
I take a walk though to Neck Cove just 100 meters through the bush; on the other side of the headland. It’s a funny looking place. Dead trees standing in swampy ground surrounded with toe toe’s that dominate the area. Can see the entrance to Thompson Sound from here.
The Kapiti boys return at about 6pm with crays and blue cod. They give me a crayfish tail that I only eat half of. Out of courtesy more than anything. And more reluctantly decline the offer of blue cod! I have already had a 2 serve dehydrated meal, so feeling quite bloated. It was funny when they asked if I like crayfish. To which I said “not particularly” but never pass up the opportunity of fresh food out here. They laughed and said that I must get crayfish regularly. Because only people who don’t get crayfish; say they love it!! They admitted not being fond of it either. But enjoyed catching them. Tough life for fishermen. Finally into bed at 9pm after an enjoyable evening.
Monday 08 March, 2021 Deas Hut to Caswell Sound
Woke early, as usual, wanting to get a good start today. But the boys were still well tucked in; so I didn’t rise until 0700. Didn’t want to disturb them too early as they have been good buggers. Compromise. Got up as quiet as I could. Took all my gear outside the hut to pack. By the time I was ready to leave, Matt was up. At least I could say goodbye and thanks to him.
Eventually paddled out of the Cove at about 0800. It’s a grey morning with a light southerly wafting up Thompson Sound. The horizon is looking very lumpy and ominous as I approach the open ocean at the Sound entrance. I’m dubious, but decide to have a look around Shanks Head before making a final assessment. I know the look of the horizon can be deceiving sometimes. And I can easily return into the Sound if necessary.
There are a number of convenient refuge points today, that can be factored into the assessment. Nancy Sound and Charles Sound are pull out options before Caswell Sound. From Shanks Head these Sounds are only one hours paddle apart respectively.
As I round Shanks Head the landscape is, once again, awe inspiring and daunting. It actually takes your breath away. With an expletive thrown in. For emphasis. It’s so rugged, imposing and huge; as far as you can see. There’s no let up to the monstrosity of this place. It seems. With an effort I refocus on what is in front of me.
The horizon behind me is still very grey and rain is clearly occurring not too many kilometres away. It looks slow moving and is further out to sea. Closer to shore I am experiencing only light southerlies although the sea conditions are lumpy and irregular. It’s OK. I decide to push on. My only concern is the rain behind, and seaward of me. Visibility would be a worry. I’m hoping it’s slow moving enough for me to find refuge if required.
The sea state stays the same until I get past Anxiety Point at the entrance to Nancy Sound; when it smoothes out a little.
I get past Nancy Sound and Charles Sound with the rain bands still behind me but seemingly getting closer on my port beam. But not closer to shore. I continue to keep a wary eye out. It is very slow moving at least. Caswell Sound is only another 1 hours paddle away. I continue on.
As I approach Caswell Sound there is clearly a good work-up going on with about 50+ Sooties and an albatross furiously working the area. I already have my helmet and GoPro on my head as I had set up to take footage of the entrance to the Sound via the Styles Island gap. Then I found myself in the middle of blue fin tuna leaping clear out of the water all around me. They are quite small by blue fin standards; only about 20-30kg. I try to turn the GoPro on, to find that the battery is dead!! Shit!! I had used it several times today. But this is no time to have a dead battery? Gutted.
What an amazing sight though. I just stopped and enjoyed the show while it lasted. Last night the Kapiti boys were talking about the blue fin that frequent the area.
I was tempted to continue on to Looking Glass Bay today but thought I would come into Caswell to check it out. And txt Shaz for a forecast. Caswell has a safe and sheltered beach but I still have half the day available. I am tempted to make progress while the conditions are OK. Two Thumb Bay is only an hour paddle away and Looking Glass Bay is 2 hours paddle. Either would be done easily today. The SWly is forecast to increase though. As usual.
I enter Caswell Sound inside Styles Island. The tide is ebbing swiftly through the narrow passage. I push though the calm surface and quickly emerge on the other side of Styles Island into the Sound.
From the ocean – the gap between Styles Island and the mainland leading into Caswell SoundNavigating through the channel on an ebbing tide. Styles Island on the left.Coming out of the channel into Caswell SoundCaswell beach ahead
A short paddle around the corner to a steep boulder beach. It is almost low tide.
On the boulder beach looking out towards the entrance to CaswellCaswell beach
I spend a while surveying the area. It is very rocky right up to the bush edge. There is no flattish clear ground for a tent; except on, or adjacent to water courses. They are dry now but a weather front is due in the next 24-36 hours.
I relaunch to check the conditions outside of Caswell Sound. If good, I will head for Two Thumb Bay. On the chart, it looks to be more sheltered from westerly swells, with a shroud of protecting reefs at its entrance. On the flip side; I didn’t want any risk of being tied down on an exposed beach. For the sake of only 1 hours paddle gain.
The ocean conditions have deteriorated in the last 2 hours. I decide it’s not worth it, so turned back to the sheltered beach. I discover now that I have left my mooring/tow rope tied to the tree at Deas Cove. Bugger! I have spare rope that will do just fine.
The camp finally set up. Secala behind.
Finding a suitable camp spot takes some time. I wander all over again. There are small sloping grassy spots above the beach but these were either too steep or too close to dry creek beds. I finally chose a flat area of boulders at the top of the beach, as far away from creeks as I can. One currently dry; the other flowing well from the steep ravine behind. I clear an area of boulders and smooth out the sandy base using a piece of driftwood. I knew I could be here a day or two so took the time to set up camp as secure as possible. Ahead of a front that is forecast to blast through. Then it was time to build a fire and settle in with coffee, cheese and salami. Satisfied with progress today and all going to plan.
Once the boulders are cleared away, a smooth hard sandy surface for the tent.Drying out some gearLooking down on Caswell Beach from up the creek. Camp is below the scrub to the right of photo.Better out, than in
Tuesday 09 March, 2021 Caswell Sound
Casually got up at 0730 to a cool grey misty morning. Early cloud movement indicated a moderate NE breeze. The ground was wet and it looked like more rain is on the way.
Caswell Sound
Decided to make use of the day and head up to the end of the Sound for a look at the old historic Caswell Sound hut. For the 5 hour return trip I just take the coffee pot with flatbread and peanut butter. In sachets. Discovered these little packets of joy while away with Shaz. Perfect for a kayaker; with an addiction.
Hugged the south shoreline and came across a couple of majestic waterfalls. Maybe the best yet. The Sound was calm with an ebbing tide.
Shirley Falls emerging from Shirley Lake aboveShirley Falls entry to the Sound. Nudged to bow in close. Awesome!
Very enjoyable and relaxing trip up to the end of the Sound taking about 2.5 hours. Hugged the shore scouting for deer (or moose!). And checking out the waterfalls.
The end of Caswell Sound. Mary Peaks behind. Heading for the river in the search for Caswell Hut. The river source is Lake Manchant just behind the low ridge above.
Consulted my TopoMap to find the exact location of the hut. It is on the left bank just before the first rapids on the river.
Caswell Hut (centre left) in the bush a few hundred meters up the river.Landed and tied Secala up just before the first rapids.Historic Caswell Hut. And is still in use!
The hut is a relic. It’s clearly still in use according to the hut book. There are two bunks with reasonable looking foam mattresses. It’s very dark inside having only 2 small windows. There are tarps and large plastic bags strung up inside against the roof; presumably where it’s leaking. Or where there’s heavy condensation. Even the hut book is wrapped up in heavy plastic. Can’t leave a comment as there is no pen.
Well past it’s “used by” date.
I make my coffee inside the hut and enjoy my peanut butter sachets before heading back down the river.
I hug the north shoreline this time. This side lacks waterfalls but has some good landing spots; especially Green Point and a beach opposite Dog Point. The low tide now unveils loads of mussels along the rocky shore. Happily fill up my deck bag.
Mussels revealed at low tide
As I reach Hansard Point, near the Sound entrance, the wind really whips up through the entrance. With a solid grip on the paddle; I sidle across the Sound to my beach.
The fishing vessel “Conchita” happens to be hanging out in the settled waters just off my camp. He has been there for some time as I paddled down the north side. Once I land at camp I make contact with him on VHF Ch 10. He says he is cleaning up his fish before heading outside to rough seas; and up to Milford Sound. He offers me a ride knowing the weather is closing in. After a bit of a chat he offers me a ride again, that I politely decline; again. He says he will be back this way in about a week. If I need.
He eloquently puts things perfectly in perspective. In these parts you must be patient. Be safe. Don’t take risks. Good conditions will always follow bad. Eventually.
It’s time to get out of my wetsuit! A regular event. Surely I have figured out a better transition process by now. I haven’t. I guess getting changed inside the tent would reduce my level of exposure. But the changing process would be awkward and take longer. And I would take sandflies into the tent. And I can’t run! Running doesn’t work really. But the distraction helps.
I just get on with it. No choice. At least this time I am dry in my wetsuit. Dry skin will allow my dry clothes to slip on quicker. It’s still a harrowing few seconds as bare white skin is instantly smothered by gorging sandflies.
It’s cup of tea time with a cheese and salami snack before preparing tea. It’s already 4pm! It’s been a very enjoyable day. Just cruising and exploring. Without a destination to make. Or the constant focus on ocean and conditions.
Mussels steamed open
I steam the mussels open but they are a very disappointing size. Out of 18 mussels I get about 3-4 mouthfuls. I stir them into the saute of garlic and onion before adding a small tin of tuna to bulk it up. Then stir in some Ben’s rice. I don’t taste the mussels. But having some fresh protein is a consolation, I guess.
The Whisperlite cooker doing its thing.
After a yummy and filling dinner I prepare for what is shaping up be a stormy night. Tent and tarp stakes are checked and everything is put away in dry bags where possible. Hope I get some sleep!
Wednesday 10 March, 2021 Caswell Sound
That was a rough night. Feels like I was awake for most of it. The tent and tarp took a hammering. Inside, the tent floor is saturated under the air mattress and pillow. Again! I used my microfibre towel a few times during the night to soak up the wet areas and wring it out; outside. Water appears to “wick” through where there is direct pressure on the tent floor and pools in the low points. I am warm and dry though. On top of my air mattress and pillow. But the fringes of my sleeping bag are wet. Where it’s in contact with the floor.
Eventually dawn arrives and I see one corner of the tarp has pulled free. The rain has eased now so I pull on my rain jacket and head out. To re-secure everything. I discover that the tent and tarp have survived the night pretty well really.
The creeks around me are well up but not threatening. I return to my tent at 0830. Soon after, I sense a change outside. It is calm now. But the rain is heavier. A whole different feel.
It continues to rain heavily. I’m motivated now to survey the situation again. There are still no immediate water concerns but decided to do some precautionary diverting of the stream flows. Previously dry creek beds are now flowing. There is likely to be some lag between the heaviest rain and maximum creek flows. I was actually enjoying myself out in the rain!! I was wet from my thighs down but wasn’t cold at all. I got carried away building several small diversions of the water. Away from the general direction of my camp. It became a challenge. Making more, and better diversion improvements. Then improvements on these. After an hour or so working in the rain, I was satisfied that I had significantly reduced the water flow in the direction of my camp.
Drying the gear
The rain eased up and by lunchtime the sun was out in all its glory. And on schedule. Focussed now on drying things out and deploying the solar panel. The sun has really brightened things up. The clothes I’m wearing dry quickly on my skin. I use my spare split paddle to lift the tent floor off the ground to help dry it out. My sleeping bag, air mattress, air pillow and towel are laid out on top of the tarp. I make sure the air mattress will not get blown away, into the bushes, where it could easily puncture. That would be a mini disaster for me. My old body would not handle lying on the hard ground very well these days. Often thought that carrying a spare air mattress would be a good idea.
Well, a miserable start to the day turned out to be a cracker afternoon. I wonder what Shirley Falls would look like today! Another level of magnificent, I expect. By mid afternoon everything is dry and charged. I set about my routine of getting everything ready for an early launch tomorrow. Time to re-focus on the journey.
I reflect again on the fisherman offering me a ride yesterday. How much this adventure is as much a mental challenge; as a physical one. Especially here. It’s remoteness. From any immediate help. You are so self-reliant that you had better make the right decisions. Prudent ones. Mental resilience is crucial. Easy said!
Bottom line ……….. I have shelter and plenty of food and water. I am thankfully healthy and fit. Stay safe and enjoy the adventure. You will never be here again.
Preparing the gnocchi for dinnerMy favourite gnocchi dinner is readyBurning rubbish
Thursday 11 March, 2021 Caswell Sound to Bligh Sound
Distance 46.4km. Time 8.0hrs. Average Speed 5.8km/hr
Up early to decamp and pack under headlamp. A well established routine now for a dawn launch. Things are already laid out ready just outside the tent. My breakfast of muesli is ready. Just add water to my individually vacuum sealed packs of muesli, milk powder and protein powder. Leave it to soak for a few minutes while I pack everything inside the tent. My paddling gear (if dry) is also folded just outside the tent opening and whipped inside when ready to change. When I emerge from the tent I am fully sandfly protected and paddle ready.
There was no rain last night but there’s a heavy dew on the tarp. A cloudless sky at dawn as I easily slip over the boulders and into the Sound. A light offshore breeze greets me at the entrance. A beautiful dawn. Two Thumb Bay and Looking Glass Bay slip by. There is a lumpy sea created by opposing N and SW swells and backwash from the cliffs. But no wind of any concern.
George Sound arrived on time at about the 4.5 hour mark. I’m greeted here by another blue fin tuna work-up. Some big fish jumping clean out of the water. What a spectacular sight. I hope the big fishing fleets never get access to Fiordland.
The entrance to Bligh Sound is another 2 hours away. Looked into an idyllic Catseye Bay along the way. Protected by reefs at its entrance; it looks like an ideal refuge and another stunning area to check out some time.
I considered paddling on to Poison Bay today. Its another 3 hours paddle to its entrance; from Bligh Sound. I txt Shaz to say that that would be my intention if she saw me paddling past Bligh Sound on the inReach tracker. By the time I got to Bligh Sound though; 3 more hours paddle did not appeal today. It would have made a 10+ hour day.
Entering Bligh Sound
Rounded into Bligh Sound and went over to check out the beach on the north side, just inside the entrance. It’s very exposed to swells from the west and south. Although the shore break looked quite small right now, it was low tide and upon closer inspection the beach had a very steep face through the tide zone.
Approaching the beach in Bligh Sound. There is a deer on the beach just above the bow.
Decided to move down the Sound to a safer beach at the bottom of a large valley. And what a spot! Beautiful as can be. Couldn’t take enough photos. There was a deer on the beach as I approached.
Beaut camp in a great looking Sound
I risk camping in an exposed spot; knowing that the forecast is good. To enjoy some great views. And a sunset. On my last solo camp of this adventure. There is a beaut stream adjacent. One of the best spots so far. This Sound is very picturesque with many beaches. Would love to return here some day too!
Nearby streamLooking up Bligh Sound
Pretty excited to be seeing Shaz at Milford Sound tomorrow and the completion of the paddle through Fiordland. A dream realised with so many good memories and thoughts. Hugely worthwhile adventure but a region not to be taken lightly. Ever! It’s fitting that this beautiful camp is the last on this trip. A perfect evening and night in Fiordland.
Friday 12 March, 2021 Bligh Soundto Milford Sound
Distance 53.2km. Time 10.0hrs Average Speed 5.3km/hr
Another dawn start for a longish day (9.5hrs) on the water today. Well aware that this is the final day of this Fiordland epic.
After a poor sleep, watching the clock all night, I finally rise unnecessarily early, just after 0500, to start the packing down routines by headlamp. Lack of sleep wasn’t a comfort issue as I was on a soft bed of moss. I expect it was anticipation of this final day.
Secala is ready for launch before dawn. At 0645 there is adequate light for a safe launch. Into the safer waters of a Sound.
A soft launch through the boulders at low tide. The usual early morning light breeze is wafting out the Sound. I enjoy the flat water for about 30 minutes before rounding Tommy Point and open waters, as dawn approaches. It’s a beautiful dawn, like yesterday.
I would have loved to stay in Bligh for a couple of days. From what I saw, this is one of the most picturesque of Sounds. Weather dictates everything around here. And so today we must paddle.
Before long I am crossing the wide entrance to Sutherland Sound. The day materialises calm and clear with off shore breezes wafting out the Sounds and Valleys.
As I approach Poison Bay I find myself in another large Blue Fin Tuna work-up. Once again I sit amongst them and enjoy the spectacle. This time I also see what I think is Slender Tuna. These are jumping close enough to me to recognise that they are tuna but like no other that I’m familiar with. Their elongated shape more resembling a very large mackerel but clearly a tuna head with big eyes and beaked mouth.
Poison Bay eventually arrives. It’s slow in coming. There is a tide against me today. And I’m feeling lethargic. More weary than at any other time on this trip. A few nights of average sleep has probably contributed to that. I distract myself by unnecessarily nibbling on my snacks more frequently. And paddling closer to the beach searching for deer. I even start giving myself some positive reinforcement. Out loud! Enjoy every moment; I say. An epic adventure through Fiordland is coming to an end.
Saint Anne Point. Mitre Peak behind with cloud over tops.
When I eventually make the turn into Milford Sound, around Saint Anne Point, there is a satisfied sense of accomplishment and finality. It’s a beautiful day to soak it all up. I rest my paddle to dwell ……. on the challenges, the moments, the amazing places and the people.
Entrance to Milford Sound
I round Fox Point into Anita Bay. A Real Journeys charter boat pulls up and asks where I’ve come from. Passengers are lining the boats rail to gork at the sight below them. I say “Bligh Sound”, to which he seems impressed. There is an ebb flow out of Milford Sound now and I ask the Skipper if its generally a strong flow. He says “Not really”. Not sure how to take that. From a guy on a boat!
Landed at Anita Bay with Fox Point behind.
I pull into Anita Bay, near Greenstone Point, for a snack and a rest. All my snacks on deck are consumed. I dive into the rear compartment for some flat bread and the remaining peanut butter. In sachets. Yum!
Looking up Milford Sound
I pull out of Anita Bay and start making my way up the Sound, keeping a lookout for the day charter boats. A reluctant re-entry into civilisation. By the time I arrive at Dale Point I feel an increasing tail breeze assist. The predictable SW breeze has arrived.
In short order the wind ramps up through the narrow steep sided Sound and I am flying along, hardly needing to paddle at all. I’m grateful. Very grateful. To have an easy ride to finish the day. And the journey. I relax and enjoy probably the most spectacular Sound of them all. On a beautiful day. Mitre Peak is sensational and a backdrop of ice covered mountain ranges at the end of the Sound.
Milford Sound
I hear Shaz calling me VHF as I round the last Point. The end of Milford Sound comes into view. She can’t see me yet though. Shaz says that I need to head down to Deepwater Basin to exit at a boat ramp. There is no public vehicle access to the ferry terminal area.
Deepwater Basin with Shaz at the boat ramp.
And so the Fiordland adventure comes to an end. An epic journey. A dream realised. There are, of course, more adventures to come. But none, I suspect, will surpass this one.
It’s great to see Shaz at the ramp. We load Secala up onto the camper van roof for the first time in 5 weeks. Since Orepuki. A lifetime ago; it seems. In terms of experiences. I can’t believe it’s done. Unbelievable Fiordland!
Thursday, 25 February 2021 Disappointment Cove to Gut Hut (Doubtful Sound)
Up at 0630. No rush to get away today but not dawdling either. Full packet of muesli with coffee. Packed up and cleaned hut. Enjoying the easier transition from a hut onto the water. Rather than from a tent. Launched just after 0800. Hopefully the southerly change yesterday has knocked the stuffing out of the northerly swell that would have ramped over the last few days.
Almost reluctantly I set out from Disappointment Cove. I leave this place too soon. There is so much more to do and explore here. I have fond memories.
Headed out through the Gilbert Islands anticipating some sort of northerly swell. Nothing! There was a NE breeze whipping down Breaksea Sound though. The same that I experienced when I arrived here a few days ago. As I emerged from the lee of Breaksea Island on my left, a moderate SW swell unfurled. Welcome back to the open ocean. Still no significant N swell. Happy days!
The coastline north from here has a daunting look and feel about it. High, imposing, fortress like cliffs extend all the way to Coal Bay. There is a significant swell backwash, keeping me further wide than normal.
The key milestones, and contingency landings today are Coal Bay (2 hours paddle); Dagg Sound (4 hours paddle); and then the iconic Hares Ears and the of the entrance to Doubtful Sound (6.5 hours paddle).
Coal Bay is not recommended for landing as it is a wide open Bay and very vulnerable to prevailing westerly swells.
I reached Coal Bay right on the 2 hour schedule. The coastline towards Dagg Sound alters subtly with continuous cliffs giving way to very steep ravines down to the shoreline. There looks to be the occasional possible landing on the scree. A hard landing probably. Looking for alternative safe landings is just a paddle routine. In case conditions turn. Which is always possible. Even probable; in these parts.
Approaching Dagg Sound. Towing Head Islands on the right. Peninsula Point ahead; on the other side of Dagg Sound entrance.Entrance to Dagg Sound. Safe camp option at inlet just west of Adieu Point.Looking directly into Dagg Sound
Crossing Dagg Sound entrance, I came in a little close to Peninsula Point and became very uncomfortable in the backwash. Pushed out for the rounding of Black Point. Or what I thought was Black Point! My judgement of distance is still not the best.
A boat trawling for tuna, I expect, gave me a honk as it passed going in the opposite direction, only a couple of hundred meters away. A nice touch and good to see that I’m seen in the undulating seas. I paddle wave back.
From a distance I didn’t recognise the conspicuous rocks ahead. Eventually I join the dots and verify that, in fact, they are the iconic Hares Ears. Half the problem was that I didn’t expect them so soon. And from my angle of approach they do not take on their most recognised profile. This is however, a terrific highlight for me. These rocks adorn the pages of so many books that I have read. Paddling past them now is a moment to remember. I dwell a little. Soak it up. I come in close to Febrero Point. Close enough for the sandflies to find me! What are they doing this far from the shore?
I’m stoked to be entering Doubtful Sound. It guarantees now, that I will make Deep Cove tomorrow and meet up with Shaz after nearly 3 weeks. And I make it just before a few more days of northerly conditions. Perfect timing.
Gut Hut is still a good 1.5 hours paddle away though. I hug the shoreline to minimise the influence of the ebb tidal flow out of Doubtful. Then cross over to Bauza Island and follow its northern shores from Jamieson Head towards The Gut channel. My destination, Gut Hut, is just on the other side of this narrow channel between Bauza and Secretary Islands.
Entrance to Doubtful Sound. Hares Ear to Gut Hut.
I am not particularly enthusiastic about pulling into a six bunk hut tonight. It is likely to be occupied; or full, given its a small hut. And its very accessible from “civilisation” at Deep Cove. Just before “The Gut” is Grono’s Bay. With waterfalls over the cliffs behind. I have read about this place. And of John Grono, an early pioneer. I pull into the beach to check it out as a possible camp option tonight. On closer inspection I changed my mind. The ground above the high water mark is not ideal. Decided to chance the hut.
View up Doubtful Sound from the beach at Gut Hut.
It actually took me a while for me to locate Gut Hut. I expected it to be visible from the water. It wasn’t. Easily found after checking the TopoMap. Its a nice hut set back in the bush. Some DOC workers are based here while clearing tracks. Good buggers and thankfully room for all of us.
Gut Hut
It’s been a pleasant day on the water today considering the stormy weather we have just had. There were definitely a few rough patches. However the light southerly breeze held. And enjoyed big moments passing the Hares Ears; and rounding Febrero Point into Doubtful. I reflect this evening on what an incredible journey it has been so far.
Opted for an easy freeze dried dinner tonight. Using up old stock. It’s definitely a struggle after enjoying fresh fish and paua through most of the trip.
View up Doubtful Sound from Gut Hut.
Shaz has booked a Real Journeys day tour out of Deep Cove for tomorrow. So she can see me on the water as I paddle towards Deep Cove. I will be returning with her to Manapouri when her tour returns to Deep Cove in the afternoon.
Friday, 26 February 2021 Gut Hutto Deep Cove (Doubtful Sound)
The four DOC workers I shared the hut with last night were good buggers but they talked loudly into the night. While the tired old bugger went to bed. At dusk. As usual. One of the reasons I don’t like huts! Peoples routines and agendas never quite sync with yours.
I’m an early riser though. And so are they. So in that regard, at least, we were in sync. There’s no rush today as its only 4 hours paddle to Deep Cove. Although I know I will have an ebbing tide against me.
It’s darker in the bush so it seems earlier than normal; when I rise. After muesli and coffee I pack up and trundle the gear down the 50m or so to the beach. When I discovered issues with the inReach. It wasn’t activating and my personal settings weren’t there. I didn’t send my usual messages upon launching today. I set the tracker going, so hopefully Shaz will be able to get that.
As soon as I set off I saw a pod of dolphins heading for “The Gut” passage. Two of them on the fringe of the pod peel off to check me out. They swam right under me while I was still in very shallow water.
The major juncture of Doubtful Sound
Not far out from Gut Hut is a major juncture for Doubtful Sound. To the left is Pendulo Reach and Thompson Sound. I will be returning here when I resume my journey to Milford Sound. On my right is First Arm. And ahead is Malaspina Reach leading to Deep Cove.
Malaspina Reach ahead. Thompson Sound on the left and First Arm on the right.
And then my obsession with waterfalls begins as I get deeper into Doubtful Sound.
Got an inReach message from Shaz saying not to rush, so that she could see me on the water. No worries! I’m on a grand waterfall tour.
Elizabeth Island ahead with Deep Cove behind.Shaz on a Doubtful day tour as I paddle towards Deep Cove
As I approached Elizabeth Island I saw the Real Journeys day tour boat finally emerge from the southern end of Elizabeth Island. I tried several times to contact Shaz on VHF Ch 10 & 16 to no avail. But I see her waving from on deck. I paddle wave back.
Real Journeys day tour. With Shaz on board.
I pulled into Deep Cove and found the Hostel Manager (Billy). Got his blessing to leave Secala tied up on the beach for a few days. All care ……no responsibility; of course.
Deep Cove. Charter boats on the right. Hostel ahead.Deep Cove beach.
I emptied Secala and laid all the gear out for sorting. Stuff to keep for the next leg to Milford Sound. And stuff that I wouldn’t. Took an inventory of all consumables (eg. insect repellent, food, COFFEE, matches, sunblock, etc); before stowing the “stuff to keep” back into Secala. Secured Secala well to an adjacent tree. Above the HW mark. Just! Skirt put over cockpit. Paddle tied on deck.
Shaz’s tour had returned now and was docking a couple of hundred meters away. Hastily got changed out of my wetsuit and into dry clothes just as the buses rolled up to the Hostel. A well oiled and synchronised daily tour operation won’t be waiting for any random, out of sync kayaker. Ran up the hill with my gear and jumped on the nearest, of two tour buses. As they were rolling out of Deep Cove towards West Arm. Stood in the aisle and called out for Shaz. More efficient than looking through the entire bus. Blank stares. She’s not on this bus.
Real Journeys route across Lake Manapouri
We eventually meet up at the end of the 30 minute bus trip over the Wilmot Passage.
???!@#…f…?**&^”@#!+*(#@ …….. Found this homeless person wandering around Fiordland!
Wednesday 17 February Green Islets to Puysegur Landing
Distance 23.0km Time 2.8hrs Average Speed 8.2km/hr
To be frank, this was not a day that I was expecting to paddle. Yesterday’s big winds and seas were not forecast to be that strong until very late ! This threw my confidence of a possible paddle today; expecting the sea conditions, at least, to still be too turbulent. I hadn’t pre-packed last night and was very casual out of bed.
When I did emerge I saw a light SE and sea conditions looking OK. From the beach. I grabbed the VHF and tried to find a fisherman I could talk to. No boats straight out from the Bay, so strode off to the isthmus to see if I could raise someone through the gap; and confirm the conditions out there.
On the way, in a clearing just off the beach, I stumbled on a hind just 30m away. Her head was down feeding and enjoying the morning sun on her back. She hadn’t detected me yet; so I froze on the spot while she continued feeding. She raised her head in my direction when I made the slightest of movements. But then resumed her feeding. I was in a bit of a hurry now to assess todays paddle opportunity, so moved on and let her find cover within the manuka scrub. An unexpected moment though, inadvertently stumbling across the hind; undetected. And so close. Will never happen again, I’m sure.
On I rush, towards the isthmus and try several times on VHF channels 10 & 16 to raise a fisherman. Any fisherman. Then, to my surprise I got Puysegur Maritime Radio responding to my “All Stations” calls. I requested and received a brief forecast for Puysegur which was “Variable 10kts, slight seas”. And got some motivational words from Lynn (Red) Paterson via my inReach.
Decision made ……. I was going to launch for Puysegur. Again! I was packed and on the water by 0930. Much later than usual. A 2nd farewell to Green Islets. A little rushed this time but no less heartfelt.
Once clear of the confused lumpy water around the Green Islets “headland”, the seas settled. Became more even and predictable. And the paddling became enjoyable for a while at least.
Then my first close encounter; of many, with an albatross. The albatross approached from my starboard quarter. Inclining its huge wingspan towards me, shaping to circle in front. I stop paddling. My attention is fully averted now. As it crossed my bow by only 20 meters, her head turned, levelled; and our eyes locked. At the same height above sea level. For that knowing length of time. I feel an affinity. A kinship. Like we feel towards dolphins. Or whales. When we swim with them. Or make eye contact. There is an exchange ……… of warmth; of empathy; a respect of sorts.
Its huge wing tip is grazing the undulating sea surface. You could tell; as occasionally there is a slight tug on its wing tip feathers. Unbelievable grace and control. The moment passes too quickly.
Not many get the chance to experience an albatross at their level. At sea level. So close. They exude resilience, control, calm. I feel an emotional bond. And more. I’m not a spiritual person. Normally!
The winds were slowly increasing now; through from 12kts to 25kts as Long Reef approaches. Gusting higher around Windsor Point, Marshall Rocks and Puysegur Point.
Key geographical points between Green Islets and Puysegur Landing
The ride is gripping at times with Secala sent surfing down some steep faces and occasionally hard bracing when breaking waves shunt the stern in one direction or the other. Looking behind is a little daunting. Focused my attention ahead. Where it should be. It was an intense paddle but well under control. Thankfully. It was a reminder; if I needed one, that this region can serve up these conditions without warning. “Variable 10”; yeah right!”
A fast trip overall, averaging 8.2km/hr. The second half of the ride would have been much quicker. Was happy to round Puysegur Point into the sheltered waters of Otago Retreat; and especially relieved to be making some progress at last.
Puysegur Landing. Secala on the left.
Arrived at Puysegur Landing to a warm welcome by 8 other paddlers who had flown by helicopter into Preservation Inlet the previous day. They gathered around to lift the heavy Secala up the beach and made me a cup of tea. Awesome. Was enjoying some human interaction. For a change. With like minded people. Nice to meet a couple of “young” kayaking pros here, in Bevan Walker and John Lumley.
There was time in the day to push on to Landing Bay but conditions were no better a couple of hours later; so decided to stay here the night. Took the walk out to Puysegur Point; that I had always wanted to do anyway. And quite possibly swayed my decision to stay. The 2 hour return walk was rewarded with spectacular views from this rugged windswept Point. Many photos taken. There is plenty of deer sign along the walk and a fresh deer head is left on an open grass area near the Point.
South tip of Coal Island (middle) marking the west side of the channel to Puysegur Landing. Paddled close by this stretch of Coal Island to enter Otago Retreat.Puysegur Point walking trackLast stretch of track leading down to Puysegur PointOld structures at Puysegur Point where a manned lighthouse once stood.Puysegur Point Lighthouse. Looking NW towards Coal Island (front); then Gulches Head; Chalky Island and Cape Providence (in the distance)Coal Island (front); Gulches Head (behind); Chalky Island; then Cape Providence. Ref TopoMap below.My intended track north from Puysegur LandingLooking south from Puysegur Point towards Marshall Rocks and Windsor Point. Where I had paddled from today. (see TopoMap below)Key points looking south from PuysegurSwell breaking over Puysegur Point
It’s a 5 minute walk from the huts at the Landing to get drinkable water from the stream. It’s novel to be in the “luxury” of a hut even though I would be sleeping on the concrete floor tonight, with all the bunks taken. The sandflies are less intense here as I enjoy wandering around without a head net for the first time.
View up Preservation Inlet from Puysegur Landing
A very welcome change of scenery too with fantastic views up the Inlet. I have done plenty of research on this area prior to this trip. The history here is mind boggling and a large part of me wants to dwell in the area and soak it up. There is a tiny cemetery behind the hut of 3 people who had drowned on the same day here back in 1895. Trying to cross over the 1km gap to Coal Island.
Somehow I have formed the opinion that’s it two paddle days from here to Dusky Sound; and this is backed up by Bevan saying that it’s an 11 hour direct paddle to get to Dusky. Which, for me, translates to two paddle days, as I don’t think I can take on an 11 hour day just yet. And even considering such a big day, in these parts, is not a smart idea. With that in mind; I only have one good day tomorrow before NW winds arrive on Friday. Landing Bay is 4 hours paddle away and a natural launch point for Dusky. Do I head for there tomorrow and sit out the northerlies; or hang out here and do some exploring of this historic area while the northerlies play out?
A couple of the paddlers (Vince and Bevan) go diving for paua and crayfish and share their cook up with me later on. Beaut paua fritters.
The evening forecast from Shaz and Chris remains the same. Good tomorrow. Then all bets are off for a few days. I set up my bed on the concrete floor. One of the ladies offers to trade her bunk with my floor. Figuring an old man on an adventure is more deserving. I’m thankful but politely decline. Reflects the type of people they are though. Just good buggers. Retired to bed unsure of my intentions tomorrow.
Thursday 18 February Puysegur Landing to Luncheon Cove
I casually rise and brew a coffee. My air mattress performed well on the concrete floor. As I knew it would.
I wasn’t at all in the headspace to paddle today either. The result of a lack of decision-making last night.
I still figured that I needed two paddle days to get to Dusky Sound. It’s decision time. Do I continue on today to Landing Bay or Newton River? To sit out the northerlies. Or stay at Puysegur Landing to do some exploring. Reality kicks in (eventually!) …….. you just don’t waste good paddle days in these parts.
If I get past Cape Providence, I have only one option to pull out before committing to Dusky Sound. That’s at Newton River just south of West Cape. It’s an OK landing. Apparently. In reasonable conditions.
I re-check the Puysegur to Luncheon Cove (Dusky Sound) route; and by my reckoning it’s actually only 9.5 hours paddle, rather than 11 hours! Why hadn’t I re-checked this before? This makes the prospect of getting to Dusky Sound today much more likely.
I check the forecast from Chris and Shaz again. Today is good. Light southerlies. After that it will be a few days of northerlies. As Chris says “Every mile away from Puysegur is a good mile!”. I immediately prepare to launch. I’m fired up now. The options are Landing Bay (4hrs), Newton River (6hrs) or all the way to Dusky Sound (probably Luncheon Cove 9.5hrs). I will go as far as I can given the conditions and my fitness.
Preparing to leave Puysegur Landing
Again the Puysegur team carry Secala to the waters edge and bid me farewell; as they set off on an exploration of Preservation Inlet. I hope to get that opportunity another day.
I shoot out Otago’s Retreat and; taking Bevan’s advice, aim for the gap between Gulches Head and Balleny Reef. “Stay about 300 to 400 meters off Gulches Head” Bevan says.
Track through Broke-Adrift Passage
It’s fairly lumpy, with the swell bounce back, around the southern tip of Coal Island and up its western side. I head for Broke-adrift Passage which is between Gulches Head and Balleny Reef that extends 4km offshore. By chance I will have the benefit of an ebbing tide for most of the day. I will take every advantage I can in these parts. Gulches Head demarcates Preservation Inlet from Chalky Inlet. This area (Broke-Adrift Passage) has an even more treacherous reputation than Puysegur due to the shoaling and currents that can occur. Carefully threading my way through the Passage; I start what seems a very long haul past Chalky Island and the entrance to Chalky Inlet; towards Cape Providence.
The vast scale of this place continues to mess with my judgement of time and distance. The third dimension now dominates. Where it never has before. I am learning to rely solely on my watch for reliable paddle (distance) estimations.
I have been warned to give Cape Providence a wide berth. There is shoaling for over 4km SW of this Cape. Beyond Gulches Head, setting course for Cape Providence, there is a period of relatively easier paddling as Balleny Reef offers some protection from the SW swell. I am grateful for a light Sly breeze now, that I’m hoping will assist me through the day. Possibly a long day. I seem to be making reasonable progress as landmarks tick by roughly on schedule. Although getting around Cape Providence seems to take forever. A consequence of being further offshore than normal. There is a lot of swell lift around Cape Providence as I set my sights now on West Cape. Eventually passing Cape Providence lighthouse, the paddle becomes smoother as the shoaling recedes closer in to the shoreline. I can now start tracking directly towards West Cape, 2 hours away, easing closer to shore.
West Cape is the westernmost point of New Zealand. Although not recognised with a structure. Like a lighthouse. Like North or East Capes. As a consequence it lacks prominence and is underwhelming; physically. Land or ocean access to this remote place is clearly an issue. There is a clear demarcation at West Cape with the intensity of the weather. My observations over the months prior to this trip is that conditions generally mellow out north of this Cape. And the further north; the better.
Cape Providence to West Cape. A early stretch of coast. Newton River the only refuge.
The wind ramps up a notch as I approach and pass close to West Cape; as it does on all promontories. Newton River is clearly observable just before the Cape and looks like a good landing option if needed. I am still making good time as I pass close by the Cape and apply an easterly increment to my heading for the first time since leaving Orepuki. It’s only about 2 hours paddle to the entrance of Dusky Sound from here. And another hour or so to Luncheon Cove. Luncheon is firmly in my sights now. I am feeling good. I have hydrated and eaten regularly in anticipation of a biggish day. Glad to have brought extra water.
The wind softens and the swell abates a little. My albatross is back. Checking in. I stop paddling. It approaches from the starboard quarter; dips a huge wing and circles close across my bow. We make eye contact. For a knowing length of time………… All is well.
For a while the paddling gets easier as we head for South Point and the entrance to Dusky. There is a fair amount of shoaling in this area to be very wary of. The swell lift keeps you on your toes. The occasional one is breaking. Suddenly and heavily. In the bigger sets. As I start the slow turn into Dusky passing South Point and Fannin Bay, the swell dissipates and ride becomes comfortable again.
With a tail wind I’m on the final leg towards Anchor Island and the Many Islands. When I’m close to where I think Luncheon Cove is, I check in with an anchored yachtie who confirms it is only 100m away.
Entering Luncheon Cove
I enter the historic Cove. There are a couple of yachties anchored here. There’s a guy sitting on the deck of one of them. I sidle up and stop for a chat. A couple of minutes later another guy comes out into the cockpit. With a melodic voice a couple of octaves higher; he invites me on board for dinner. Expressing interest in my trip. I politely decline………. not sure what’s on the desert menu……!
Parked up on the rocks at Luncheon Cove
Just above the Luncheon Cove memorial plaque, I make my camp on the only flat piece of ground nearby. It is late and I’m a little weary but very happy to have left Puysegur, Cape Providence and West Cape behind me. And now that I’m safely in a Sound I should be able to make more unimpeded progress, regardless of the forecast. It feels like the adventure is back on again. At last! And I’m keen to keep up the momentum.
Camp just up from the plaque
Not many sandflies here I notice. The local dive charter vessel Tutoko comes into the Cove for the night with a boat load of divers. The boats deckhand comes over in his rubber inflatable, to have a chat and see if there was anything I needed. He made sure I was in touch with Meri Leask. Meri is centre of gravity in these parts. Another good bugger checking in on folks …… where folks are not usually meant to be!
Once he has gone I realise that the nearby creek is actually dry. I will need to replenish water before the paddle tomorrow.
Camp at Luncheon Cove on only nearby flat groundLooking down Luncheon Cove just before sunset. Two yachties and a dive charter boat share the Cove.
Friday 19 February Luncheon Cove to Acheron Passage
Distance 21.9km. Time 4.4hrs. Average Speed 5.0km/hr
Woke a little late (just after 7) this morning. The dive charter boat Tutoko took divers on a night dive making quite a racket throughout the very tranquil Cove. With motors, generators and general people noise. That amplifies over water, it seems. And when they finally settled down the birds were just as raucous. Never heard anything like it in the bush. Some sound like strangled cats. Others like squealing pigs. Anchor Island is pest free so there is likely to be birds I’ve never heard before. I wonder if there are kiwi among them.
My aim is to get to Disappointment Cove today. It’s 6 hours away. Up Dusky Sound and inside Resolution Island, through Acheron Passage. Looking forward to an easy and enjoyable paddle. My first off the open seas. But I know the forecast is for increasing NW breezes. These are meant to be building later in the day. Hopefully giving me enough time to get through Acheron Passage.
There is a DOC hut in Disappointment Cove and I’ve been told where to find the key to get in. It would be great to get there to sit out the strong northerlies in relative comfort.
The deckman on the Tutoko checks in with me again this morning. Meri wants confirmation of my details and intentions.
Paddle route through Dusky Sound
I set off on a beaut morning after filling my water containers with the friendly yachtie. With the melodic voice. Very enjoyable and easy paddling through Dusky Sound. Past Stop Island, Passage Islands and across Duck Cove towards Porpoise Point. No swell or shoaling to constantly monitor. Able to relax and take in the surroundings. I stop paddling often, just to enjoy the peace and quiet. I steal up close to sleeping seals that I can reach out and touch with my paddle. Shags and Oyster Catchers stand sentry on their claimed piece of rock. As I enter Acheron Passage, past Passage Point, the northerly breeze becomes evident although only 10kts. I stay close to the Resolution Island side of the Passage to keep away from the white caps in the middle. It’s almost low tide. Mussels cover the rocks within the tidal range. There are even tree branches, that hang in the tidal zone, laden with mussels.
As I work my way up the Passage the NW increases to 15kts. Which is still manageable. The tide is also turning against me now. Winds continue building over the next 30 minutes to 25kts+. The wind is way earlier than I expected. Or maybe I hadn’t factored in enough of the funnelling effect of the narrow steep Passage. I hug the edge of the Passage. Within a paddle length. Progress is slow. The planned 2 hour paddle through Acheron Passage will now at least double. Or more. I look for a contingency plan. It’s still early in the day. The wind could ease up later and allow me to finish. Without exhausting myself.
At the entrance to Wet Jacket Arm (north side) I know there is refuge on the north side, at Muscle Cove. It will have perfect protection from the northerly there but will not have much sun or a good view of the conditions. However on the opposite (south) side of the entrance to Wet Jacket Arm I spot a north facing beach. Worth a look. And a better spot to observe the conditions through the Passage. Either option requires a crossing of Acheron Passage.
The Passage is very choppy now. I commit to crossing it though. My grip tightens on the paddle; leaning forward and hard into the wind. And paddle at an angle making as much progress as possible across the passage; without losing ground downwind.
My pebble beach.
The crossing is OK. The wind is strong but consistent. I land on a beautiful pebble beach. And I see that it has good water and camping options. There is a great view up the Passage to observe prevailing conditions. From here I can assess the opportunity to make the 2 hour dash to Disappointment Cove; hopefully later today. I have a coffee and enjoy the sun for a few hours leaving Secala fully loaded.
Camp set up in Acheron Passage
By 6pm I abandon the opportunity of a launch today. I erect my tent and cook tea. I remember that Bevan had given me a bag of cooked spuds, back at Puysegur Landing. They were in my day hatch and I had forgotten about them. They are a couple of days old now but still look and smell OK! Even though Bevan suggested eating them asap. They fry up well in coconut oil with plenty of salt and pepper.
I check the area around the beach. This would be a fine place to camp even in a strong northerly. There are places further in the bush to pitch a tent, offering more wind protection, if necessary.
It seems the northerlies will be with us until Wednesday or Thursday next week. Another 5 or 6 days! Very happy with my decision to paddle north of the Capes yesterday.
At about 8pm the wind dies off enough to paddle. But too late with remaining daylight. I resolve to try a dawn launch tomorrow. To get to Disappointment Cove. Hopefully before the anticipated stronger northerlies pick up. I will launch without breakfast for this quick 2 hour paddle. I have packed everything I can and set my alarm for 0500.
Saturday 20 February Acheron Passage to Disappointment Cove
It didn’t seem like I had slept at all last night. My mind was focussed on getting to Disappointment Cove. I heard some strong wind gusts play through the trees during the night; that worried me. Checked my watch several times and at 0440hrs decided to just get up. Before the alarm. Under headlamp I pack up inside the tent, change into my wetsuit and apply the usual sandfly defences before emerging. I head to the beach to check conditions. It is nearly high tide and there is only minor lapping on the beach. Good signs. It was thankfully a fine night so the tent and tarp are dry. I pack up Secala under headlamp. Breakfast can wait till I arrive at Disappointment Cove. Like a reward. I put a couple of energy bars in the deck bag, if I need. I sit in Secala ready to push off as soon as first light allows some discrimination between land and water. Don’t need as much light as I would if I were launching through surf. Or a reef.
Off I push and upped my normal paddle stroke rate. It’s only 2 hours. I can afford to lift the heart rate a little. Stretch the arms.
Immediately felt a side on breeze and chop coming down Wet Jacket Arm. A NE to start the day. Fine by me. I get across Wet Jacket Arm entrance and into the lee of Muscle Cove. Still in very low light I passed close to the narrow gap leading through to Muscle Cove. There was a residual light breeze coming down the Passage but nothing to worry about. I’m stoked the northerly hasn’t arrived yet. I should be assisted by an ebbing tide soon. I cross back over to the Resolution Island side of the Passage. Point to point. The shortest route. At near sprint pace. Heading for the point near Occasional Cove. There is still no breeze to be concerned about.
The top of Acheron Passage. Entry Island on the right. Ahead is the entrance to Breaksea Sound and the open sea. Gilbert Islands coming into view to left of entrance.
I get to Occasional Cove while daylight reveals a gloomy morning. Entry Island dominates my view ahead. I know for sure that there was nothing going to stop me reaching Disappointment Cove now. I’m stoked.
I peel off to the left and back off the pace to enjoy sightseeing through the beautiful Gilbert Islands. The fishing and diving would be terrific around here. Or just a couple of good days exploring.
Paddling through the Gilbert Islands
A couple of yachts were coming out of Breaksea Sound early, taking advantage of the NE following breeze. I hope they were heading south.
I ponder doing a circumnavigation of Resolution Island via Goose and Woodhen Coves one day. That would be a wonderful trip. Like many others. There is so much to this place.
More Gilbert IslandsEntering Disappointment Cove
Turned into the protected eastern corner of Disappointment Cove and landed on another idyllic beach. Immediately came across fresh deer tracks in the sand. Within the tide zone. Pretty much an expectation now.
Disappointment Cove! Another unbelievable gem.Secala tucked around the corner in Disappointment Cove. The DOC hut is 50m up from the beach.
Like Green Islets, mine are the only human prints on the beach. It feels completely remote, isolated and untouched. And it is, mostly. Except there is a DOC hut here. And it is all mine for now.
Two man DOC hut.
I don’t see the DOC hut initially. From the beach. Followed some track markers for about 50 meters to see the hut nestled in some cleared scrub. It’s locked. I thankfully find the key where I was told it would be. I’m looking forward to a real bed tonight and a hut to myself. As long as no DOC staff arrive. Which is unlikely. The hut book indicates that they were here a couple of weeks ago and it seems that it can be months between visits. This is a rarely used hut. This will be a great spot to hunker down during the coming wind and rain.
The small hut has two rooms with a door separating them. The first room is like a lobby for wet gear, boots and storage. And no doubt assists with sandfly control. The second room has 2 foam mattress beds and a gas cooker, insect screens over the two windows, a solar powered LED light and a water tank. Not for drinking.
I unload the gear from Secala and enjoy a breakfast of muesli and coffee. My reward.
DOC hut is in the bush just up from Secala
I head off for a reccie. To fill all my water containers. I will be here a few days. There is a solid stream half way around the beach. The water is clear. For the first time this trip. I continue my walk around the beach and scrub. And check out the rocks at the waters edge. For signs of paua or mussels. There are none. The beach is usually a giveaway if there are shellfish around. And there are none.
On the way round I do my usual gathering of foreign (plastic) objects. That I accumulate for burning. It’s such a shame that these beautiful remote places are not immune to human garbage.
I can’t help noticing a falcon that sounds like it’s in distress. It’s flying around screeching continuously. Then it comes down to ground and hops along the driftwood at the top of the beach. Still screeching. I can’t figure out why (for now).
The northerly wind intensifies into the Cove during the morning. Justifying my early start today. It will be really howling down Acheron Passage now. I won’t be lighting a fire or going fishing today. The up side is fewer sandflies. In areas sheltered from the wind, the sandflies are still horrendous though, just like Green Islets. Which means wearing a head net all day. When outside the hut.
It’s been sunny most of the day. It’s great having a north facing Cove. I manage to charge the power bank and all the devices. Finished the day reading my book and enjoyed a really good Outdoor Gourmet freeze dried dinner. They are so much better than some others on the market.
Sunday, 21 February to Wednesday, 24 February Disappointment Cove
The forecast for the next few days is steadily increasing northerlies from 25kts today to 50kts and 6 meter swells on Tuesday. Although this Cove is exposed to the north there is enough protection to set up camp in the scrub behind the beach. I have the real luxury of a DOC hut though.
After a half ration of muesli with coffee I head down to the beach to check for deer sign and get my pee bottle out of Secala. Last night I had to go outside the hut to pee! Naked! Won’t happen again. Another trait of sandflies I realise. They don’t sleep! Or maybe they take shifts! When humans are around. Maybe Fiordland sandflies are smarter than others. And they have bigger bodies to support their bigger brains………..
There are no deer tracks in the sand this morning. But it is high tide. There are plenty of bluebottle jellyfish washed up on the beach though. The offshore horizon out towards Breaksea Island really looks nasty, but it’s sheltered enough just outside the Cove and inside the Gilbert Islands to go fishing I reckon. Without any bait I ended up tying some flat bread on the hooks with bait elastic. There were some dried up strands of paua left on each hook though. From my previous fishing at Green Islets.
I paddle out the Cove. The water depth drops away to over 200 meters very quickly. But between the Gilbert Islands it’s a more manageable 20-30 meters. With a hand line. Before long I’ve got 2 cod and a pig fish. Enough for 2 good dinners. I think I’m going to like it here. I did a little more exploring of the area before returning to camp. Stevens Cove is adjacent and almost fully enclosed. Except for a small entrance big enough for fishing boats. This Cove must be used as a refuge sometimes; as there are mooring lines attached to trees and out to buoys in the Cove. The clear water reveals a sandy bottom.
After processing the fish, I find a beaut swimming hole in the river for a scrub up. And a change into a fresh set of thermals. I have been using the same set since I left Orepuki! About 2 weeks! Just as well I’m in Fiordland eh! Turned out to be a quick scrub and hair wash in the very cold water. And then the usual ordeal with the sandflies. Returned to the hut for a flatbread snack. The leftover bait. With marmite and a cup of tea.
The falcon is still flying around seemingly in distress. I still haven’t figured out why.
After a lazy afternoon reading; I finish the day with a great dinner of cod and rice cooked in coconut oil and lashings of garlic.
Beaut stream at the head of Disappointment Cove. Is tidal for the first 50 meters.High tide in the Cove. Breaksea Island outside the Cove.Looking south towards the stream.
Monday, 22 Feb – Up at dawn. No overnight rain that I heard. 1/2 packet of muesli with coffee. Planning a bush walk today. Will follow a trapline probably.
Unsure if it will rain. Gather up a few things to take on the walk: inReach (for tracking), PLB, water, peanut slab, dried fruit & nuts, survival blanket, rain jacket, rain hat, goPro and repellent in a drybag. Put strapping tape over my toes where my sandals have previously rubbed them raw. I let Shaz know I’m off for a walk and I will have my tracker on.
Set off at about 0800 and follow track markers up a ridge to the south. For about an hour and a half. Working up a bit of a sweat. There was a disappointing level of bird life; just quiet bush in the main. Disappointing for Resolution Island I feel. It’s one of the flagship conservation areas in the country. The hut book notes that a stoat was caught around here in early Feb.
View out to Breaksea Island during trapline walk.
By chance, on my return to the hut I came across two piles of downy feathers only a couple of meters apart. Close by the tree where I first found the falcon in distress. The feathers are obviously of the fledgling. There are a few small feathers clearly with falcon markings amongst the grey downy ones. This is obviously the reason for the falcons behaviour over the last couple of days.
The wind is blowing harder today than any other. It could be another lazy afternoon. Went for another trap line walk. In the other direction. Towards Stevens Cove this time. I attempt some deer stalking but I am generally walking downwind for this walk.
The wind is getting wild as the afternoon rolls on. Keeps the sandflies under control though. A strong surge is rolling into the Cove. I spend the rest of the afternoon reading. A new Jack Reacher book. Perfect!
The forecast continues to indicate that it will be Thursday or Friday before I get away from here. Would like to get to Doubtful in one hit. It will be about a 9 hour paddle to Gut Hut in Doubtful Sound. Then Deep Cove Friday. That would be great. To see Shaz.
Tuesday, 23 Feb – Landlocked another day. Expected though. The storm has really hit overnight. Stronger winds and bigger gusts from the north. Definitely gales out there sending a strong sea surge directly into the Cove. I can see why it got its name. No shelter at all from northerly conditions for boats when it is this strong. But I’m fine in a hut tucked around the corner.
Even though Secala is safely inverted above the beach; I’m concerned enough to move her behind some scrub further from the beach. For protection. Stevens Cove just around the corner would be a great refuge for boats in these conditions though. Camping here in these conditions would also be fine behind some scrub or trees.
The forecast is for a southerly due tomorrow that will hopefully quell the forecast 5 meter northerly swell. The forecast is for a light southerly on Thursday. My target paddle day.
Storm surge coming into the Cove
At 1000hrs there is still very strong winds and intense gusts. No rain yet. Waiting for low tide, to fetch water from the river. The sea surge is pushing right up the river at high water. Low tide is about 1400. I will need to cross the river and walk up the right hand side, at least 100 meters, to be sure of getting fresh water. The left side of the river has steep banks preventing access further up the river.
1400 – The sun is out and the devices are charging. At the river I pull my long johns up over my knees and time a quick crossing between the surging waves. With water bladders refilled; all chores are completed. Huge wind gusts howl through the Cove now. Storm force. 40-50 knots easily. The forecast is accurate. No sandflies now.
Storm gets stronger in the afternoon.
Via inReach I discuss with Shaz the merits of coming into Deep Cove. To replenish supplies and take some ‘time out’ together. Or if it makes more sense to push on to Milford if the weather forecast is too good to miss. If so, I will need a food drop. I tally up my remaining food supplies and figure I have 14 days worth of food left. Without rationing. My food management at Green Islets has really extended my supplies. It’s only 2 paddle days to Deep Cove from here. Three at most. I send Shaz a food and supply list just in case. Shaz has said that Real Journeys can drop my supplies off at Blanket Bay in Doubtful Sound. A good option, if I want to continue up Thompson Sound without deviation.
1600 – Rain has set in. Horizontally! We have all the elements of a storm here now. I might be in a DOC hut with no running water or toilet; but it feels like the Savoy right now.
I have a whole packet of gnocchi tonight. I’m easing up a little on the rationing now that Doubtful is not far away. Shaz’s forecast still looks good for Thursday. The day after tomorrow. It just doesn’t seem likely while a storm is still unfolding here. I will prepare tomorrow for a Thursday launch. I know how quickly conditions can change around here.
My thoughts at the moment are to paddle to Doubtful Sound (Gut Hut) on Thursday. About a 9 hour paddle day. Then on Friday paddle up Doubtful Sound to Deep Cove – only 4 hours. And in time to catch the returning Real Journeys bus and ferry out to Manapouri. Leaving Secala and gear tied up at Deep Cove. For my return.
Wednesday, 24Feb – Woke pre-dawn and lay in until first light about 0600. Could still hear the wind and the surf pounding in the Cove. Got up to have a half packet of muesli and coffee by headlamp. Opened the last (and 3rd) 200gm packet of coffee this morning. The first two packets have lasted 17 days so I should be right with this one to get me to Doubtful. I only have 2 cups a day when landlocked, at most.
Through the morning the rain backs off to showers. But there is still a strong northerly surge into the Cove. I wonder if conditions will be suitable for a launch tomorrow. I’m expecting and hoping for the forecast SW change some time today. To help flatten the northerly swell. Definitely won’t be a rush to launch until I can assess the conditions. Safety first always. Just like Green Islets; it’s been great to have a place like this to hang out through inclement weather.
Not much on the agenda this morning. I settle down to read more Jack Reacher.
1200 – Still intermittent rain. The wind has died away significantly but it’s still from the north. It’s 1.5 hours after HW and the surge into the Cove is still as big as I’ve seen it. I figure it would even be a challenge to launch off the beach today at HW. There’s a good dump onto these rocks with no break in the sets. If necessary I would take Secala over to the river and launch through the entrance there. It would be easier I reckon.
1400 – Close enough to LW now to cross the river and replenish water supplies for tomorrows paddle. The wind has completely dropped off now leaving a thick blanket of low misty cloud. Visibility isn’t good! Definitely wouldn’t launch in this. The swell surge is still strong in the Cove. Have organised gear and packed all that I can for now.
1600 – Relocated Secala closer to the beach and set her up on deck for the paddle. Full water bladder, deck bag with supplies, correct paddle plans, etc.
The tide is out now and you can see how the sand over the lower portion of the beach has been scoured out by the storm surge. There is only rocks now where sand was a couple of days ago. I made a fire to burn my waste and the beach debris that I had collected. The beach drift wood was so wet, that for the first time I used a little white spirit from my primus to get the fire going. Worked a treat. All plastic beach rubbish gone.
1700 – Had a big feed. Used up a leftover half packet of gnocchi with a full packet of rice and tuna. Getting loose with supplies now. Loading up for big paddle to Doubtful tomorrow …..I hope!
The first night is steady rain. All night. Only realising in the morning, that the tent floor is wet. Inside! But only under my air mattress and air pillow. The direct pressure on the tent floor had drawn moisture through it. The rest is fine. I slept well enough through the night regardless. Saved by Sea to Summit air mattress and pillow, again.
Applied sandfly defences before emerging from the tent into the adjoining tarp shelter. The rain is still intermittent. Made a coffee and went for a walk to survey my new digs. Between showers. There is a fresh set of deer prints along the beach; below the high water mark. Must have come past early this morning. After the tide had ebbed somewhat. And clearly good grazing and shelter for them at either end of the beach. I follow the prints towards the scrub line and find fresh droppings and more prints in the mud. Dearly like to spot one sometime.
I can tell it’s really rough outside the Bay. Very glad to be tucked in here. I’m completely sheltered by the surrounding cliffs. There wouldn’t be many better places to be hold up in. Be patient. Conditions will come right.
Rough outside the Bay. Love a fire! Drying out the wood after a wet night.
Return to camp for a half ration of muesli and tea. Figure I can easily cut down on consumption when not paddling.
Wandered off to find a good water source. There are some trickles nearby; under the cliffs. But these will dry up quickly after the rain. I find a creek with a larger catchment beyond the arch. It has good flow but is still brackish. Looks like strong tea. Or whiskey. And tastes good.
On the way back I check the rocky areas around the arch; for paua. There are multiple pools left with the receding tide. I have a casual look, thinking there must be easy pickings here somewhere. Very surprisingly I see NO paua! I haven’t got serious yet. I’m keeping my socks dry. For now.
Back at camp, I composed a few messages for inReach but for some reason my iPhone wouldn’t sync with it. Sent messages the hard way, directly from the inReach unit. Painfully slow. Realise how reliant on comms I am out here.
The sandflies are incredible. In size and numbers. Keeping moving is a good option. Or the sandfly clouds settle all over your body. And there are clouds hovering in reserve! I have 40% deet repellent on my hands and a few still get through. They penetrate the head net where it makes contact with the skin. Guaranteed! Smearing deet over the head net is a good idea. My sipper cup of tea is covered especially around the sipper opening. Some crawl through. Or fall through. There are lumps with each sip. I guess there’s protein there. Haven’t figured out where these critters fit into natures balance. What sustains so many of them? They don’t just hang out till the next silly human comes along; do they? Need to learn more about their life cycle.
Overall I easily come to terms with them. Got to. With protection, they can be largely ignored. Until one sneaks through the defences. That occurs often.
Some of my observations of them so far: – In (or near) the bush, they are more concentrated in numbers; They don’t like the wind or the wet; and seem to prefer cooler temperatures. They are attracted to light; natural or artificial. And they do not venture over water very far. They can fly very quickly though; but not for long. I tried out-sprinting them on Secala a few times; while paddling away from the beach. Watched a cloud of them hovering over my bow for a surprising period of time.
The southern end of the beach across the Bay. There is an isthmus linking the islet to the mainland at low tide.
I explore the southern end of the beach (pictured across the bay above) at low tide. An amazing area. There is a seal colony on the islet with many seal pups congregating in the cavern that runs right through it. I didn’t explore the cavern. To avoid upsetting the pups. And their mums! There is plenty of paua across the isthmus. Easy pickings. I keep my socks dry. A great habitat for deer in the low manuka scrub above the beach. There is a narrow view through to the open sea to the SW too. Which is handy.
A stunning area. I’m not at all disappointed to be hold up here.
The days roll by. Routines are established. Roll out of the tent at dawn. Reconsider my paddle options first. Check the conditions in the Bay and beyond. As best I can. Compare this against the forecast. Are there any fishing boats around that I can talk to? Make a final decision to stay or go.
I spend the day outside wherever possible; and generally on the move. Doing something. Either walking around the coast to the east; checking for fresh deer sign everywhere I go. And do a casual deer stalk, of sorts, when I’m not in a “winded” position.
I often carry my VHF when heading away from camp. Fishing boats turn up randomly checking pots or seeking shelter. I have a good chat with a couple of them during my time here. Disappointed at a few fishing boats that didn’t reply on VHF. I expect there are good reasons. The working channel around here is 10. I default to this channel first and try 16 if unsuccessful. The fishermen I do chat with are genuine good buggers. I expect all the fishermen are; in these parts. It comes naturally for them to enquire about peoples welfare. Where it’s clear that people are not normally meant to be. They offer me crayfish and I even get an offer of a ride out to Jackson Bay.
I explore the isthmus area everyday at low tide observing seals, birdlife and getting paua. I paddle around the islets and reefs and go fishing for blue cod. Replenish water supplies; work out the daily food intake; confirm the tally of remaining food. I walk the high tide zone gathering foreign matter (usually plastic) to burn. Collect fire wood; build a fire; making a coffee or tea to enjoy at my favourite spot by the arch. Write up my log. The days slip by easily.
It’s surprisingly easy to reduce the food intake. I just don’t feel hungry. At all. Often I get through the day on coffee, tea; some dried fruit and nuts. A little chocolate or an Em’s cookie. Until the evening meal. This will be large portions of fresh fish or paua with a half ration of gnocchi or rice cooked in coconut oil and garlic. Occasionally I will have half a cup of muesli in the morning. The day prior to a paddle day I resume ‘normal’ consumption. In preparation.
On most days, the cloud disperses by mid morning. Allowing the solar panel to do its work charging up the power bank, iPhone, inReach and GoPro. Once fully charged the iPhone and inReach are back talking to each other. Thankfully! The Goalzero solar panel works a treat.
I don’t go inside the tent all day. On good days. To prevent sandfly intrusion. And its too beautiful and enjoyable outside to swap for the inside of a tent.
Once I do go into the tent in the evening, I stay put. I have my pee bottle just outside the zip on one side. The drink bottle just outside the zip on the opposite side. Precautionary measure. Still risky. But segregation helps. And insect repellent is right there too; for the morning pre-exit application.
The first job when inside the tent is sandfly eradication. There are usually a couple of hundred sandflies in with me initially. The vast majority are attracted towards the lightest area of the tent. This is always a high point and where the evening light filters through the trees the strongest. Full hand swipes across the tent surface takes out, or disables, about 10 at a time. Then wait for them to re-settle. When down to the last 20 or so I target individuals until there are only a few left. All up, takes about half an hour. The greatest pleasure is getting the ones gorged with my blood. Retribution is sweet. But tinged with disappointment that they beat my defences. Red stains are accumulating on the tent walls.
It can be creepy when it’s dark; listening to hordes of sandflies tapping on the outside of the tent. It sounds like a steady light rain. Best not to dwell on it. In the morning they are still there. Under a microscope I’m sure they would look like vampires! Best not to dwell on it.
The wind forecasts for Puysegur over the coming days sway from strong SW to stronger Nly winds.
Tuesday, 9th Feb – Forecast S 25kt. Steady rain overnight easing up during the morning. A sunny afternoon with the wind picking up considerably.
Wednesday, 10th Feb – Forecast. Shaz simply says “NO GO”. Light rain all night and day. Miserable. Cooler. There is more Sly in the wind. Shore dump in Bay. Too rough even for paua gathering. Encouraging words from Lynn (Red) Paterson today – to enjoy while I can; too soon I will be moving on from this beautiful place.
Thursday, 11th Feb – Forecast SW 25kt. Rained all night and most of the day. Sea conditions bad. A break-out through the Islets impossible at low tide. Plenty of seaweed washes up on the beach.
Friday, 12th Feb – Forecast NW 24kt. Fine day. Calm in the Bay. No chance of a launch today.
Saturday, 13th Feb – Forecast Nly 40kt. Cloudy for most of the day.
Sunday, 14th Feb – Forecast Nly 40kt. Cloudy start to day; then fine. Calm in the Bay. The forecast looks better tomorrow.
It’s difficult to read the sea conditions from the Bay. My next destination is Puysegur Landing (Preservation Inlet); or further to Landing Bay (Chalky Inlet) if possible. This is one of the most notorious and remote stretches of coastline in the country. Puysegur Landing is only 4hrs paddle away via Long Reef Point, Windsor Point, Marshall Rocks and, not least, Puysegur Point. However this route is NW out of the Bay. And I cannot see in this direction; to assess conditions, from inside the Bay.
The direction I’m heading. Tough territory!
The forecasts are confounding too. I chat with cray fishermen coming close into the Bay whenever I can. At times, when conditions look good from the beach; there is a gale warning issued for Puysegur. When I asked a fisherman about this, he says “I know” in a cynical tone. And at other times, when the forecast is acceptable; the fishermen warn against very sloppy sea conditions outside. Can’t beat real observations from local fishermen. I will always take their advice. In these parts!
For these most extreme locations (eg Northern Capes, Cape Palliser, East Cape, Kaipara), and some lesser ones; I ensure all factors align in my favour. For me, Windsor, Puysegur, Providence and West Cape not only have a bad reputation, but are the most remote. Firstly, weather forecasts (plural) must align. Second, my observations in the morning must concur; and lastly, it must feel right when I’m on the water.
Some days it’s obvious that conditions are really bad and I’m lucky to be in such a wonderful location. On others it’s confounding that I can’t paddle. Be patient ……Be safe. Listen to the fishermen; take heed of the forecasts. There are very few escape routes. When you are out there, you’re pretty much alone and committed. This is not an area to take risks.
Blue cod and paua are plentiful.
The Bay gets quite deep straight off the beach and there are large reef bombies scattered all though it; most of which have bull kelp hanging off them. With my handline I had a couple of bottomship lures and ledger rigs made up with 5/0 hooks and some lumo tube to help keep the rigs from tangling.
I launch and feel the lightness of an empty Secala with the first few paddle strokes off the beach. All I have on board is my handline, tackle, a paua, a bait knife and an old shopping bag in the cockpit to put the fish into. In the bay I try a bottomship lure first, constantly working the handline so that I keep it just off the bottom. While I drifted. The depth varied between 5 – 10mts. Before long I had snagged a lure on something and had to cut it free. Tied on a ledger rig on with some fresh paua bait and instantly a good size wrasse came to the surface. Two more drops and instantly two more wrasse. Missed out on my target species – blue cod; but I wasn’t going to let these go to waste. They will be just fine with my rice or gnocchi.
From then on I paddled out beyond the Bay into deeper water. For blue cod. About 20mt by my reckoning (hand line estimate) and the cod are jumping on two at a time. Too easy.
Large portions of fish and paua bolster my rations significantly allowing me to halve each of my daily portions of vacuum sealed gnocchi or rice.
The only downside to the fishing routine is getting changed. From my dry clothes into my wetsuit. And back again. After the fishing. The speed of changing is my only defence. The gear is carefully laid out in front of me. As soon as I have my wetsuit peeled down to my waist, the sandflies immediately latch onto all available skin. There is no lag time. They are always hovering. I run down the beach while trying to get my long sleeve top on. The stinging ramps up the urgency. I’m yelping as I run. This doesn’t help. Just adds unnecessary drama. It would all look very funny. If anyone was watching. When the top is on, I slide it around my upper body to dislodge or kill the sandflies trapped beneath. And then I have to do the bottom half. Oh dear! I kick off the wetsuit as quickly as possible. I can’t run this time! But I can yelp! Much more meaningfully. Everything gets a hammering. A static target. It’s a genuine emergency now. My dry long johns are carefully laid out in front of me. I have coiled each long john leg up for quicker leg insertion. Apparently! Trying to be quick, sometimes isn’t. When trying too hard. The long johns don’t slide over damp legs easily. Giving more precious seconds to the sandflies. Finally there is rubbing and swiping over the top of the long johns to kill all the sandflies trapped beneath. The stinging and itching gradually subsides. Calm is eventually restored.
The Arch.
Thankfully there are not many wet days. When there is, I lay in bed and read. For as long as I can. Which isn’t long. And nap if I can. These are the boring days.
My favourite coffee pose. The Archway Cafe!
My Archway Cafe. A large rock, accessible on any tide, with a comfy patch of grass on top and the best view in the Bay. And generally fewer sandflies. This becomes my favourite spot to enjoy a coffee, or tea; with an Em’s cookie. Or a piece of chocolate. There is no better place in the world to be!
High tide at the Archway CafeCamp location marked with paua shells.
15th Feb – Forecast SW 10kt. Time to launch. At last! I’ve prepared the evening prior, and launch before 0800. Having said my farewells to a place I will remember fondly. And likely never return. I have marked my camp spot with 14 paua shells hung from a tree. One for each member of the family. So far. Me, Shaz, Daniel, Alex, Kiwi, Ben, Kirstie, Ava, Emily, Vinnie, Sarah, Katie, Scott and Theo!!
Then I’m back on the beach at 0830! I exited the Bay and rounded the point. There was no wind but the sea conditions were messy. Very messy. I muscled further out wide, to deeper water, but they don’t improve. I spend more time staying upright than moving forward. I turned back. Gutted; but I know it’s the right decision.
I resolve to try again later in the day. I won’t unpack Secala until I give it another go. Have another look. The sea conditions can change around here remarkably quickly. Either way. For better or worse. After lunch I launch again. Having said my farewells. Again. Not as bullish of success this time. I don’t send my usual inReach message upon launching. I will send it if I actually commit to the paddle towards Puysegur. Alas; same conditions …..same result. Be safe ……. be patient. Bottom line.
Dejected I return to my same spot and set up camp. With a few improvements.
16th Feb – Forecast SE 30kts. I eventually rise with the sounds of a storm brewing. I have felt it through the night. And no wonder. The storm is howling directly into the Bay. I feel the drop in temperature as soon as I throw the sleeping bag off. It is sunny though. The first time I have seen the sun so early in the day. I can observe the madness of the sea conditions from my sanctuary. The very strong SE is beating up the SW swell. The sea is raging. It’s the worst I’ve seen the Bay even though it’s protected by Islets and reefs. There will be no cod caught today but on the upside, the sandflies will be scarce. And there are long periods of full sun between the fast moving cloud fronts. It’s actually pleasant sitting in the sun at the top of the beach. My tent and tarp are perfectly protected 10 meters inside the bush. I start, however, to reassess my chances of staying here too much longer. My food supplies are OK for now, but if I miss another seemingly good weather window, the supplies could be getting too lean. The weather windows are usually several days apart.
I fall back into my routines. Water from east of the arch. Paua at the isthmus. There is a tree at the southern end of the beach that always has a wood pigeon in it. I see one on the way over to get paua and three on the way back. In the same tree. I observed a humorous thing with a pigeon the other day. One of them was flying directly out of the Bay while gaining height. It kept heading out towards the Southern Ocean for a curious length of time. As far as I know, these are not migratory birds. Then eventually it took a long sweeping U turn and headed back towards land. Still gaining height. It seems the big bugger needed an extra long runway to get its big undercarriage over the cliffs behind the beach. Funny!
After lunch the sea is still angry outside. It’s 35kts+ straight into the Bay. The reef breaks are being whipped up big time. But the wind is relatively light on the beach. Being hard up under the cliffs probably accounts for that. There is a large flock of Sooties working inside the lee of the Islets. I have read that these amazing birds can dive over 60 meters under water.
For dinner I fry up a couple of paua in garlic and then stir in some of Ben’s rice. Looking forward to my only meal of the day. While swapping the pan from hand to hand with a pot gripper, I dropped the pan. The pan inverts spilling all the paua and rice over the ground. Bugger! Most of it is on grass though. Wasting food is not an option. I get a little feral and eat my dinner off the ground.
The forecast for tomorrow is very marginal. But reliable forecasts are elusive around here. Have advised Shaz that if I don’t get out of here in the next weather window; I will need to consider getting out somehow. To get more food supplies.
Arrived at Rowallan on the afternoon of Saturday, 6 February, 2021 hoping to launch and kick start the adventure with a short paddle to Port Craig, before a nice two day weather window opens up on Sunday and Monday. That I planned would get me to Puysegur Landing, at least. However, the rough road for our camper van and the high surf conditions played parts in our decision to withdraw back to Orepuki for a launch there tomorrow. This withdrawal and lost time made Puysegur Landing an unlikely destination this weather window.
Colac Bay
The beachside camp site at Orepuki was full (Waitangi Weekend) so we ended up further down the road at Colac Bay for the night.
Sunday 07 February – Orepuki (Monkey Is) to Wairaurahiri River
Distance 40.0km. Time 6h 40m. Speed 6.0km/hr
It’s a grey morning when we arrived at Orepuki Beach (Monkey Island). A freedom camping Irish couple were just leaving their beachside parking spot so we got good beach access to unload Secala and gear. My distant landfall (Sand Hill Point) is indistinguishable on the horizon, 30km away. This will be the longest open water paddle that I have ever taken on; to date. And in the middle of the Bay I will be the furthest (12km) I’ve ever been from any shore, in a sea kayak. All the forecasts are ideal though. A light following SE breeze is predicted in the afternoon. And I will enjoy whatever residual west flowing ebb tide through the Foveaux Strait; for a good portion of the day.
With Shaza’s help Secala is loaded to the gunwales with sufficient food and equipment for 18 days. It’s the heaviest she’s ever been. My previous longest solo trip was 7 days; from Te Araroa down the North Island East Coast; back in April, 2019.
All the usual pre-launch routines and processes kick in …….. PLB in left lifejacket pocket ………. InReach in right lifejacket pocket. VHF; Compass; Maps; Food; Tent; Primus; Fuel; Clothes; Water – check . Insect repellent – CHECK! Then, all too quickly we’re ready. Time to take a breath and realise that this is the moment that we have planned and prepared for well over a year. The launch that will take me towards the most remote and exposed coastline in NZ. It is estimated to take me 7 – 8 paddle days to reach my next rendezvous and resupply with Shaz at Deep Cove, Doubtful Sound. Who knows what part the weather will play?
Packing Secala at Monkey Island (east end of Te Wae Wae Bay)Te Wae Wae BaySizing up the surf!! And whether I’ll float!!
At the last minute Shaz hands me double ziplocked bags of Christmas cake that I squeeze into the deck bag. A little extra water is required to detach Secala’s bum off the beach now.
Bon Voyage!Looking across Te Wae Wae Bay towards Sand Hill Point 30km away. Secala on compass course.
After the launch there is the usual paddle wave farewell to Shaz before I turn to look for my landfall heading. It’s usually point to point. Clear and obvious. Or the compass course to find a land feature to aim for. Easy. But this time there is no land, or feature, on my bow. In the direction I need to go. Despite excellent visibility. My landfall is low lying Sand Hill Point, 30km away. Beyond the earths curvature. For now I would rely solely on the compass.
I ease into my paddle rhythm and focus my thoughts on the here and now. I feel the increased drag on Secala’s hull. A little like pushing into the next resistance level at the gym. About 30 minutes into the paddle I realise that I hadn’t checked the fridge. I have left behind the cheese and salami…….
A few of the hundreds of Sooty Shearwaters working the waters that day.
Gradually the cloud lifted and the calm Bay gave way to a very gentle following SE breeze. Occasionally a large SW swell set would roll by, reminding me that we are actually in the Southern Ocean. They were reminiscent of the big rollers I experienced off Ninety Mile Beach. I managed to run right over the top of an unsuspecting shark seemingly resting on the surface. About 2.5m long. Not a midget. It bolted into the blue depths. My advantage of surprise. Need to keep it that way.
As I passed Mid Bay Reef, a recreational fishing boat, with 6 guys on board, came over for a chat. No doubt trying to figure out what a kayak is doing so far off shore! Nice chat but no offer of fish!
Sand Hill Point
Approaching Sand Hill Point I knew I had to make a decision on whether to continue beyond the protected west side of Te Wae Wae Bay. There is a lovely protected beach just east of Sand Hill Point that looked very inviting. Otherwise my destination today would be somewhere along the exposed south coast, probably in the vicinity of Wairaurahiri River, that will certainly be a surf entry. And, more importantly, a surf exit tomorrow. The predicted swell height is only 1.5m from the SW. Which is very tame for this area. I decided to have a look on the west side of Sand Hill Point to assess the surf conditions.
At Sand Hill Point hundreds of Sooty Shearwaters were attending large fish work-ups. As I rounded the Point a local westerly 10kt headwind kicked in for a while but the swell looked low and manageable. It is all lowlands here with native bush right down to the beach. An amazing sandy beach stretches west from Sand Hill Point and there was not too much surf observed here. This sealed my decision to push on and find a suitable landing spot. In fact, beaches pretty much extended all the way to my landing spot. A helicopter flew overhead heading in the direction of Preservation Inlet. I hoisted my paddle to him.
Landed in this protected bay just east of Wairaurahiri River. Looking east towards Sand Hill Point (out of sight).
At a spot that I thought was very close to Wairaurahiri River I came in close to shore to investigate and discovered a very protected Bay just east of the River. After landing on sand at low tide, I decided to stay, even though there wasn’t much room to camp above the high tide line. It would make a rocky bed tonight.
My introduction to Fiordland sandflies has now begun. I figured these sandflies hadn’t tasted human, in these parts, for some time. They had a few mates. They figured there was plenty of me to go round. The sandfly battle had begun. Decided I needed to mount some sort of defence. Some resistance or fortification. I can’t start our relationship with a whimper. I made a fire and stood in the smoke to get changed into dry clobber. I try to keep the smoke over my torso; not my head. I cough and splutter a little; but it’s worth it. The sandflies are largely kept at bay. I figure I win a points victory this round! There will be many more rounds to come. They are not going anywhere. And nor am I.
My next concern was fresh water. I needed to replenish my supply here. Or I would have to pull in somewhere along the way tomorrow. I wouldn’t get a full days paddle in with the water I had left. There was no obvious stream or creek nearby but I found a trickle of brackish water coming off an adjacent cliff. It tasted fine. Happy now that tomorrows paddle was sorted.
Set up camp above the HW mark! Sandfly fire in foreground.A bed of rocks!
Have slept on a rocky base before; so knew my Sea to Summit sleeping mat would do the job.
While setting up camp, the helicopter was returning down the coast but this time very very low. Maybe 30m above the water and 200m off the beach. I expect he was on the lookout for me.
Sand Hill Point can just be seen in the distance.Wairaurahiri River is a mile or so beyond this point
The first day of this South Island adventure. And all is well. Conditions are great; but that will not remain. Not in these parts. Every day paddled though, every mile achieved, is a mile that will probably never be seen again. Enjoy!
Monday 08 February – Wairaurahiri to Green Islets
Distance 36.0km Time 6.2hrs Speed 5.8km/hr
Had a pretty reasonable nights sleep on the rocks. Can’t complain. The main disturbance was the high tide dumping surf on the rocks/boulders only a few meters away! Rose pre-dawn at 0500 to have my muesli breakie and pack up inside the tent by headlamp. Good to see the surf hadn’t changed overnight, despite the racket last night suggesting otherwise. Packed down Secala at first light and slipped easily through a small surf.
It’s another gloomy grey start to the day. But the sea is settled and the paddling easy. Settling into the day I get a real sense now of the remoteness and vast proportions of this place. It could easily be overwhelming. I snap out of it. Focus on the here and now. And what I can see. And control. There is more of a demand for contingencies, in these parts. An escape plan. As many as possible. In case conditions take a turn.
Today’s target destinations are either Green Islets (6hrs paddle) or Gates Harbour (8 hrs paddle). Both are selected for the all round protection they offer. From the adverse conditions expected from tomorrow. The obvious escape options today are Knife and Steel Harbour and Big River. During the paddle casual and continuous observations are made of other possible landings. If needed.
Coastline between Wairaurahiri River and Green Islets
Where I end up today is where I will be hunkering down for a few days. Northerly gales are forecast for Puysegur.
I exit my calm Bay and round the corner to see a good sized bar and surf at the entrance to Wairaurahiri River. I’m even more pleased with decision to stay on my rocky beach last night. Long Point is the next prominent landmark. It looks a looong way off, yet by my reckoning less than 2hrs paddle away. My distance estimation, by observation, is a long way out.
Long Point demands respect. It has a lighthouse. For a reason. Rocks and shoals protect its shoreline forcing punters out wide. Green Islets is clear on the distant horizon as the next waypoint. Instead I cut in towards the shore to try and get a closer look at Knife and Steel Harbour. I find it; but observe many shoaling areas of turbulence and upwelling. The bigger swell sets break heavily over some. I get caught too close over one shoaling area and have to quickly turn to face an on-coming, and rapidly growing wall of water. The heart rate ramps in sync with the bow. Several paddle strokes up the face. Near vertical but safely over. A timely reminder. I retreat to deeper waters with my tail slapped.
The topography is becoming more significant. The land is growing now. Vertically.
Something breaches the water behind me and slaps back through the surface to jolt me back to the present. It sounds like a full breach as there is a time lag between the exit splash and the slap of re-entry. Maybe something after some little penguins that I saw moments earlier. I look for the telltale signs of dolphins, orca or whales. I don’t see or hear any. I’m left with my imagination. I’m more alert now and watchful of my surroundings. And I lift the paddle stroke rate just a tad. Create distance between me and whatever it was. I know it’s futile to out run anything out here. But it’s all I can do …… and doing it helps.
I enjoy the last of Shaza’s Christmas cake that has survived in its double ziplock bags. From now on my nourishment on the water will consist of Em’s Power cookies, nuts, dried fruit or a peanut slab. If I’m deserving! Would have enjoyed some cheese and salami …………..
A light rain now accompanies a light offshore NE breeze. Big River is the next conspicuous landmark adjacent to Prices Harbour. There are large rocky outcrops standing sentry at it’s entrance. The NE funnels down the Big River valley to give me a nice little assist on my starboard quarter; on the final approach to Green Islets.
Green Islets arrives and it’s stunningly beautiful. I weave through the cray pots, reefs and shoals on a smooth readable surface.
I land on a SE facing beach with ripples lapping the shoreline. The beach has vertical cliffs shrouding it from the SSW clockwise all the way round to the NE. Cosy, safe, stunning.
Looking back east. The point at Big River can be seem through the arch.
A transition takes place at the end of the paddle day. Ocean to land. Where to camp? Flat, relatively high ground is important. Above the tidal zone – crucial. Wind protection – desirable. Soft base for tent – optional, but nice. For an old fella. And where is the water supply?
But first, immediately before landing, the sand fly defences go up. I keep my head net and repellent in the cockpit. For quick access. First the hat and buff come off. Head net goes on with buff pulled over the top. Snug around the neck. Repellent is pumped onto hands and wiped all over the head net. Hat goes on. More repellent onto hands and wiped all over the remaining exposed skin – the wrists and hands. Good to head ashore now. And hope it’s not a wet landing.
Camped amongst the pungas about 5m from the top of the beach. Prepared now for a few rough days.
The camp site pretty much ticked all the boxes, although there was light rain while setting up the tarp and tent. Tarp first. Erect tent under the tarp and move into position. Bring all dry bags under the tarp. Get changed by the fire. Make a coffee.
The most consistent water supply is found just beyond the arch about 300m away. It’s just a trickle, but the rain is coming.
Once the fire is made, the camp is complete!
Can’t complain! Got my 2 paddle days in before the expected northerly blast takes over. Glad with decisions to bring an additional Goalzero battery bank for charging the devices and with my MSR pocket rocket for a quick coffee.
Secala well above the high tide zone.
Finishing each paddle day earlier in the day, after a 6 to 8hr paddle is part of the general plan. Ideally! To set up camp. Find water. And have a wander. To enjoy the journey. So far, so good.
Most Challenging Coast : Wairarapa ( Aramoana to Ngawi)
Most Challenging Paddle : Maunganui Bluff to Tapotupotu
Strongest Tidal Stream : Cape Maria van Diemen (13.2km/hr)
Top 7 Paddles
Maunganui Bluff to Tapotupotu (Cape Maria van Diemen; Cape Reinga) 46 km
Sandy Bay to Ngawi (Wairarapa) 35km
North Muriwai to Glinks Gully (Kaipara Coast) 70km
Te Araroa to Whareponga (East Coast) 53km
Waihau Bay to Te Araroa (East Bay of Plenty) 55 km
Mahanga to Ahuriri Bay (Mahia Peninsula) 42 km
Flat Point to Sandy Bay (Wairarapa) 46km
Top 7 Solo Overnight Camps
Tom Bowling Bay, Far North
Tom Bowling Bay camp. Remote, great views, good fishing off the rocks. Perfect.Enjoying the sunset (just before the mossies invaded!!). Spirits Bay around Hooper Point in the distance. Rounding North Cape the next morning.
2. Ahuriri Bay, Mahia Peninsula
On the west side of Ahuriri Point and the start of Hawke Bay. Portland Island in the background. Stunning sunset. Must return!
3. Whareponga Bay, East Coast (between East Cape and Tokomaru Bay)
Whareponga Bay. Spent 3 nights here, weather-bound for 2 of them. Extra tarp proved its worth. Waipiro Bay around the next point. Moutahiauru Island in the distance (top left), two hours paddle away.
4. Port Charles, Coromandel
Beaut sheltered and secluded bay on west side of Port Charles. View through to Motukokopu Island.Tent on a soft bed of thick grass.
5. Rangitira Beach, North Muriwai
Great view high on the dunes. This is my launch spot for the epic crossing of the Mighty Kaipara Harbour.Remote Rangitira Beach 4 hours paddle north of last vehicle access at Rimmers Road, Muriwai Beach
6. Maunganui Bluff, 90 Mile Beach
Tucked in behind the dunes at Maunganui Bluff before the most anticipated paddle of the entire adventure. Rounding Capes MVD and Reinga. The only access here is by 4WD or walking down 90 mile beach (or kayak!).Enjoying the last West Coast sunset over The Bluff before rounding the northern Capes.
7. Mataikona, Wairarapa
Found this sheltered beach tucked in the lee of an offshore reef. Dunes provide tent shelter. Houses at Mataikona in the distance. Castle Rock, 2.5hrs paddle away, can be faintly seen in the distance (end of distant point).
Most Consecutive Solo Overnighters 5 (Te Araroa to Tatapouri)
A long (Taranaki Anniversary) weekend to play with this time. Four full days available to get as far up the home straight as possible. Luckily the weather permitted 3 consecutive days on the water. Not bad for the west coast.
6 March, 2020 Pukerua Bay to Waikawa Beach
Distance 45.5km Time 7.6hrs Ave speed 6.0 km/hr
Arrived at Pukerua Bay just after sunrise, after a short drive from our overnight stay at Manakau. Eased into a calm Pukerua Bay.
Setting up at Pukerua Bay
Followed within 100 meters of the shoreline and State Highway 1, filling now with commuter traffic. Saw Shaz drive by in the camper and stop at one of the lay-bys for some photos as I rock hopped around her.
Following State Highway 1
Caught up with Shaz again, 2.5 hours into the paddle, parked up at Raumati Beach. Came ashore for a few moments and confirmed the plan to meet at Otaki for lunch. Sea remained flat through the Rauoterangi Channel inside Kapiti Island although the ebb flow was working against me.
Plenty of boat trailers on Paraparaumu Beach
Once out of the lee of Kapiti Island a reasonable swell was exposed, with occasional big sets, that kept my attention seaward as I cruised very close to the beach. After 6.8 hours from Pukerua Bay, Shaz guided me into Otaki Beach for a late lunch.
Landed at Otaki for lunch. Kapiti Island behind.
In these conditions, I decided to put in another hour to Waikawa. Didn’t worry that we hadn’t scoped out Waikawa beach for access from the sea; or the shore. Enjoyed the prospect of coming in somewhere different, so off we went to carve off one more hour, and deal with the exit when we got there.
Arriving at Waikawa Beach
The landing was all too easy with Shaz there to guide me in. The Waikawa Stream was too shallow (low tide) to paddle, so with Shaz’s assistance we pulled Secala a few hundred meters up the beach, thankfully on hard sand.
Support team at work!
Shaz ………Friday 6 March 2020
Left home around 4.30pm last night and headed for Pukerua Bay! We stopped at Gary & Phillippa Betts (POP) on South Manakau Road, before Otaki. Arriving around 8.40pm, cooked up baked beans on toast and a cup of tea. There was a knock at the door, Gary and Phillippa came and introduced themselves and welcomed us. Up early, left the Betts place 6.20am! It’s a 37 minute drive to Pukerua Bay, so not to far and Brent can get started for the day.
Ready to launch at Pukerua Bay
Brent was set up by 7.41am and on the water by 7.48am, heading for Otaki for lunch!
Kapiti Island
I watched him leave then headed along the road stopping in one of the lay-by’s along the coast road before Paekakariki.
Brent approaching the lay-by. Pukerua Bay behind.
Took some photos and then drove to Raumati Beach! What a beautiful spot, lots of people walking along the beach.
Raumati Beach and Kapiti Island
When I arrived there were 3 motorhomes parked up which is the maximum for staying overnight here in the car park. Went for a short walk along the beach heading south as I didn’t want to get my feet wet going north. Then spoke to the lady from the council taking motor home rego numbers that had stayed the night! She thought we had stayed also as I was parked in a non-compliant area. I said no that I had just arrived from Pukerua Bay as my husband is kayaking from there to here! Wow, she said once I explained what he was doing, and she said ‘that had better not be what her husband brought a 2 man kayak for!! ‘. Not happening, no way!!. We had a good laugh anyway. I asked where to go and get a good coffee from, she suggest the ‘Green & White Ribbon cafe just on the other side of the park. Before going, I looked down the coast to see if I could see Brent and there he was way in the distance. Plenty of time for a walk and a coffee.
Brent hugging the shore – approaching Raumati Beach
Gosh, people are already swimming in the sea and another man has put out his Contiki for some fish. Brent much closer now, and he made contact.
As he got closer he came ashore for a quick chat around 10.22am and then he was off again at 10.29am, saying he would see me at Otaki in 3 hours.
Leaving Raumati Beach
While I was waiting for Brent to arrive at Otaki, I got my camera out and took a few photos. Hopefully I’m improving my skills!
Brent arrived at Otaki around 2.55pm, it took longer than he thought as the wind changed against him.
Landing at Otaki for lunch
I had made him a late lunch and coffee while he decided if he would go on today or call it quits for the day.
Brent decided to continue onto Waikawa beach just under an hours paddle further along the beach. So I drove on towards Waikawa to check out the best spot to land on the beach. When I got there I quickly realised that the waters edge was a long from the van. I wasn’t game enough to drive down onto the beach like some cars did! Brent called on the VHF and asked where to come in!
Arriving at Waikawa (low tide)
I walked down to the waters edge to meet him and got some photos, and looking back at Waikawa.
A bit of a hike back to the camper van
Once we got back to the van, we loaded up all the gear plus the kayak and headed back to Gary & Phillippa Betts POP for the night.
7 March, 2020 Waikawa Beach to Scott’s Ferry
Distance 48.6km Time 8.75hrs Ave Speed 5.6km/hr
Stayed at the same campervan Park over Property (POP) just down the road at Manakau again tonight. As we drove out of Waikawa Beach yesterday I noticed a boat ramp on the stream beside a footbridge. Thought I would try paddling down the stream as the tide would be further in this morning. Expected though to have to get out a drag Secala over the shallows as we reached the beach.
Launching at Waikawa Stream. Shaz on the footbridge.Heading down Waikawa StreamSettling my nerves before taking on the Waikawa bar!!!
Once clear of the bar, set off towards Waitarere 3 hours up the coast. The forecast Northerly 10kt slowed me down, adding half an hour to this section.
Approaching the Manawatu River bar I could see a couple of jet skis playing in the good sized line of breakers extending offshore. After watching them for a while, I could figure out the outer extent of the river bar and safely cruise outside it and through some muddy turbulent water to Foxton Beach about 3km north of the river.
Approaching Foxton Beach for lunch
After lunch, departed Foxton through low surf and was greeted by 3 women having a swim; one of whom speculated “Are you paddling around NZ?” When I replied that I was, they burst into cheers and clapping. Funny wee moment.
Aiming for Scott’s Ferry 3 hours further up the coast. This is another “wing it” scenario, not having checked out the beach access situation in advance.
Typical afternoon west coast conditions developed with winds increasing as they backed from the north through west to the south west.
The continuous beach from Foxton is backed by exotic forest, behind the sand dunes. This is a busy stretch of beach with many vehicles , motorcycles, bikes all the way towards Tangimoana. With speed signs on the beach and a 4×4 police ute patrolling this “highway”. Many were involved in fishing of one sort or another; surf casting, contiki long lines and nets.
One of the many contiki’s along the beach.
Arrived off Tangimoana taking a wide route around the Rangitikei River mouth to avoid the worst of the turbulence over the river bar.
North of the river and heading back towards the beach, it became apparent that contact with Shaz would be difficult. Failing to make contact by VHF after several attempts, I reached for the cellphone that displayed “No Service”. Hadn’t anticipated no cellphone coverage on this coast! Came ashore on a wide beach at low tide; to see if I could get cell reception by climbing to the top of the sand dunes. There was one bar reception, but very sketchy, not being able to connect, but seemingly able to leave a voicemail message. Said that I would paddle up the Rangitikei River until we managed to connect by road or by phone. Figured that I would find a house or some better reception as I got closer to civilisation. The inReach satellite tracker was on and would be very useful today so long as Shaz was within cell reception. This would give her regular updates of my position.
Landed north of the Rangitikei River (low tide); looking for Scott’s Ferry
Hoping that my phone message would be received, I dragged Secala up the beach, over the dunes and across the river mud flats to the river.
Portage over the dunes towards the Rangitikei RiverLow tide! The river is across the mud flats towards the trees.Thankfully Secala slid easily over the hard mud.Rangitikei River. Off to find Shaz!
Relieved that the mud wasn’t too soft which would have made a messy portage. Paddled about 2km up the river until I saw a small boat ramp on the north (left) bank. Intended on exiting here, as there were houses nearby; when I saw some people fishing, a little further up the river on the south bank. Headed over and landed a respectful distance away so I didn’t upset their fishing.
Shaz drives along the shingle riverbed to find me.
Explained to them that I was looking for my wife who was driving a camper van. They said that they had seen a camper just down the road in Tangimoana and offered to go and find her. No sooner had they left the river, they were back with Shaz right behind them. Shaz had located me via my inReach tracker and found her own way along a narrow overgrown gravel track, down a shingle bank and onto the exposed river bed. Our compact campervan demonstrating its versatility despite a rear mudflap working loose along the way.
There was some concern expressed by our 4WD friends, that we would not make it back up the shingle riverbank on our way out. They kindly offered to stick around and tow us out if necessary. As it turned out, our camper easily made it out and off we went to look for the Tangimoana campground.
Parked up at Tangimoana Campground
Shaz ……..Saturday 7 March 2020
Up a little later this morning as not so far to travel to launching spot at Waikawa beach. Unloaded and ready to launch on the river at 8.08am.
Launching at Waikawa Stream
Brent was going to paddle as far down the river as he could and the drag the kayak to the edge of the sea.
Dragging Secala over the shallows
I drove around to where I parked closer to the beach yesterday . From there I could see him pulling the kayak along the river towards the sea. He called on the VHF to say he was set to go and see me in Foxton unless I decide to stop in at Waitarere beach.
Brent setting off just outside Waikawa Stream
Driving towards Foxton I did decide to go down and have a look at Waitarere beach, glad I did its a very nice beach.
Waitarere Beach
Once I got there I realised that I hadn’t had any breakfast so decided to have some at a little cafe there.
Great bacon and eggs with coffee at a really good price the place is called ‘@ Beach Cafe right next to the 4 Square and a little gift shop!
Finished my coffee and set off for Foxton beach!
Got a good spot in the car park close to the walkway down to the beach and not many people here. However it didn’t take long to start filling up and then the lifeguards arrived and set up with a safe swimming zone.
Foxton Beach
The beach is a road with a 30km speed limit, however the lifeguards put up a cones and road closed signs at each ends of the swimming zone to ensure that the public are safe!
I made Brent some lunch and coffee ready for when he arrived, putting the coffee in the thermos. He arrived around 1.50pm. Had a quick lunch and then launched again heading for Scott’s Ferry.
So I set off for Scott’s Ferry driving on State highway 1 to Bulls and then out towards the coast from there. It’s around a 50 minute drive from Foxton. However along the way I decide to stop at Waireka Honey Centre and brought a Real Fruit Yoghurt ice cream, they are so good from here!
I turned off at Bulls for Scott’s Ferry where Brent wants to come in, I was almost there when I saw on the road side a Historical site and pulled over. It was the old Scott’s Ferry and a write up about it.
Scott’s Ferry restoration
I arrived and saw the Camp ground on the left driving through the settlement on my way to the beach! I need to check out the best spot for Brent to land along the beach. Once I arrived at the car park I soon realised that the beach was a lot further away than we thought! I parked up and walked to the beach, around a 15 minute walk and not really suitable for pulling/dragging a kayak back to the van. Reception not the best, only one bar on the beach, so I tried to ring Brent but NO answer. Left a message and texted him. I took a video of walk back to show him what it was like. Once I got back to the camper I decided to head back to Bulls (25 minutes) to get better reception and call again/leave a message. I told him that I was going back to Tangimoana on the other side of the river hoping that there would be better access! Decided to fill up with diesel while in Bulls and then headed back down the road towards Tangimoana (20 minutes). Once I got there the access to the beach wasn’t much better, and hardly any reception here for the cellphone either. Driving towards the beach it soon became apparent that the road just stopped from erosion and I couldn’t really turn around. So I parked and walked down to the beach where I managed to get 2 bars on my phone and rang Brent, no answer so I left another message. I had to back down the road to a place where I could turn around, thank goodness there was no traffic coming down the road! I drove back down the road to the local shop and asked them if there was anywhere I could get internet as I needed to check iReach to see where about Brent was. He must be getting close now. They said the best place was outside the shop, I see that I’ve missed two phone calls from Brent so tried to ring back without any luck! Driving around trying to find somewhere that he could land, the lady in the shop said that the Tangimoana boat ramp would be the best place.
Tangimoana Boat Ramp
So I drove down there and got 2 bars on the cellphone, so tried again and then saw a message from Brent and listened to it. He has landed somewhere but couldn’t see me and wanted to know where I was! He sounded a little bit grumpy, but then so was I! Finally I got an update on the iReach and could see that he was up the Rangitikei river. So I looked on my GPS and there was a road called the Old Scott Ferry Road and it looked like he was heading towards that. Hope he stops around there otherwise I will miss him and not sure what to do then! So I set off towards Old Scott Ferry Road, as I head down it I thought OMG no where to move if someone else comes my way. Then I came to a point where the road went down towards the river, so I pulled over as I didn’t want to get suck in the sand. Just as I was getting out of the camper van a Ute came up from down the beach and stopped and asked “ are you Shaza”, I said ‘yes I am’. Brent was on the river bank and they had come to look for me! They said it was safe enough for me to drive along the river bank as it was pebbles and very firm. So I drove down onto the rivers edge and there was Brent standing talking to some people, so headed straight for him! All the while feeling happy to see him and frustrated at the same time, as I’m sure he was too!
Brent’s landing spot up the Rangitikei River
It was now 6.30pm! Thank god there was a camp ground here in Tangimoana, so we headed straight for that!
Upon arriving the office isn’t manned and you have to fill in details in the book and put the money for the night into the honesty box. Couldn’t find any kitchen, but there are toilets and showers thank goodness! I had a shower before I cooked tea, Brent was going to have his later on! After dinner Brent went for his shower, but he came back and said ‘what’s the code for the lock on the door’, I asked “what lock on the door, I just went straight in!” The men’s block had a lock on the door. Suggested he to go and check in the office where there were instructions for stuff. He never came back so I guess he got in! WRONG, he couldn’t; so just used the women’s shower. OK!! Funny, luckily there wasn’t really anyone else there!
8 March, 2020 Tangimoana to Whanganui
Distance 50.4km Time 8.5hrs Ave Speed 5.9km/hr
Up for early breakfast today preparing and hoping to get most of the day. Has to be all the way to Whanganui today, about a 9 hour paddle, as there are no real access to the beach through the coastal Santoft Forest. I have had no weather forecast since yesterday morning due to poor internet in the Tangimoana area. Headed down to Tangimoana boat ramp; where yesterday, Shaz discovered a spot with reasonable internet coverage. The weather forecast is good for the day so the target is Whanganui.
It’s an hour before HW and the ramp is busy with boats wanting to get over the river bar.
Tangimoana boat ramp
No coffee break with Shaz today and I didn’t bring my coffee kit on this trip!! Lesson learnt! Won’t leave it at home again.
It turns out that from the boat ramp I can see where I had dragged Secala over the dunes to the river yesterday. Would have been easier had we known about this ramp. Never mind …….winging it adds to the adventure!
Looking down the Rangitikei River from boat rampSupport team at work ……..camper behind.
Took my cue down the river following the lines of a fishing boat out through the bar. There was still a good incoming tidal current at the river entrance but once in the clear, the sea was flat.
Following a boat down the riverSizing up the bar!
A nice moment to see Mt Taranaki clearly directly ahead as I cleared the bar and set a northerly course. Felt now that this part of the NZ adventure was quickly coming to an end. Mt Taranaki would stay visible on the bow all day. In the conditions I could stay within 30m of shore most of the way. Skirted out a little wider, at times, to avoid surf casters lines. Only the occasional vehicle on this more remote section of coastline.
Fire lookout structure in the Santoft Forest
Just over two hours paddle from Tangimoana I past the prominent fire lookout structure overlooking the Santoft forest. Thought for a moment whether I could go to climb the lookout, but figured, these days, there will be good security measures in place. About an hours paddle down the beach, the chart showed the location of the wreck of the Fusilier (1884). Brought back memories of the wrecks on the beach at Kaipara. Kept very close to the beach to try and find any signs of it, unfortunately I didn’t see anything although could have easily missed it amongst the driftwood along this section.
Lunch on a very quiet stretch of beach
Found a quiet stretch of beach a little while later and stopped for lunch. About half way to Whanganui now.
The easy paddling continued through the afternoon distracted only by the turbulence at the Turakina and Whangaehu river mouths. The inshore currents easily detected by the discoloured river water; especially the Whangaehu that was very brown.
Passing Koitiata at the Turakina River mouth
A little further down the beach I got waved down by a fisherman (Luke) on the beach who reckoned he had lost contact with his contiki while pulling it back in. I offered to go and check it out. Seemed fine to me, and escorted it towards the shore for a while. As I gave Luke a thumbs up and peeled off to continue northward, Luke held up a fish. You beaut ……… darted ashore to claim a nice little pannie snapper.
Escorting a Contiki in distress! Luke and family on the beach.
Could make out the Whanganui river breakwaters now and watched several boats, from a distance, enter the river over the bar. It appeared pretty flat but couldn’t be sure from a couple of miles away. Low tide now as I nudged up close to the breakwater and gingerly entered the river mouth.
At the Whanganui River entrance
Despite a gentle flow seaward, the entrance was smooth.
Looking up the Whanganui RiverApproaching Castlecliff Beach on the north side of the river.
Crossed the Wanganui river mouth easily and onto Castlecliff beach. Castlecliff pretty much marks the end of an uninterrupted lowland beach all the way from Paekakariki. The rugged Taranaki coast awaits!
Castlecliff Surf Club
Shaz …….Sunday 8 March 2020
After spending the night at Tangimoana campground we set off to the boat ramp to launch rather than go back to where Brent came in on the Rangitikei River. All sorted by 8.01am to launch from the Rangitikei river boat ramp and followed out some fishing boats.
Tangimoana Boat Ramp on the Rangitikei RiverHigh tide …….. mudflats gone.
OMG, the boat ramp is so busy this morning everyone making the most of the great weather. Not sure how they get on coming back over the bar when they want to come back in! Guess they wait for high tide, that must be why one boat came back in when they realised they forgot their cigarettes! They said they can’t do without them all day, SAD!!
After packing up I headed for Castlecliff, Whanganui stopping at Mother Goose cafe in Bulls for a coffee and some breakfast. From here I headed for Whanganui and stopping at supermarket on the way. I still had so much time to kill before Brent would arrive at Castlecliff beach I decided to go and visit my friend Deborah’s mum who lives in East Whanganui. It was great catching up with her and seeing her new home that she had only moved into recently after spending 23 years in her other place. So good to see that she is still very independent getting out and about when she wants too! Even though she has Home Help coming in to help out with her domestic chores, she is still driving herself around at 84 years old. After leaving her place I went straight to Castlecliff beach to check it out. Once I got there, there was plenty happening! Lots of people on the beach and swimming, local market was on and the cafe and gallery were busy with tourists and locals.
I parked up and checked out the market and then went for a coffee at Citadel cafe for a coffee. Very nice it was too!
After my coffee I went and parked up in the car park that looked down over the surf club and down to the Whanganui river mouth, awesome views from up there!
Surf Club at Castlecliff Beach
Brent came into view around 5pm, made contact but reception wasn’t the best on VHF. I told him that I was going to drive down to the car park beside the surf club.
Castlecliff Beach. North river mole at the entrance to Whanganui River.View north of Castlecliff Beach
So around 5.15pm he landed on the beach.
What was great was a fisherman gave him a snapper for our dinner tonight, yum!
Tonight we are going to stay at the Springvale car park and then most likely go home tomorrow!
21 March, 2020 Whanganui to WaiinuBeach
Distance 22.8km Time 4.4hrs Ave. Speed 5.2km/hr
Drove down to Castlecliff Beach at daybreak from our now familiar overnight freedom camping park up at Springvale Park. The squatters in their tent weren’t there this time. A couple of hours from high tide and although the dumping surf was low, it looked like a wet west coast welcome on this exit.
Getting ready at Castlecliff Beach
The forecast promised increasing NW head winds backing West as the day progressed. Our plan was to see how far we could get today with exit opportunities at regular intervals. Firstly Kai Iwi Beach (1.5 hr), then Waiinu Beach a further 2.3hr; and if really lucky, Waipipi Beach a further 2 hours.
Sure enough, after a cool down getting through the shore break, I set off in a NW direction towards Kai Iwi Beach in a light offshore breeze. The topography changes here, from a sandy beach backed by dunes and lowlands; to limestone cliffs shrouding a narrow black sand beach. Beach access is much more intermittent from here onwards.
Check point with Shaz at Kai Iwi Beach
Soon enough I was at Kai Iwi Beach where I saw our camper van parked on the waterfront. Gave Shaz a call on the VHF and said I would push on to Waiinu Beach despite the NW making itself known with occasional gusts. As the NW chop increased; I hugged the shore until Ototoka Beach hoping to get some lee behind the Waiinu bulge in the shoreline. I could clearly identify Waiinu Beach in the distance with its prominent line of pine trees and a couple of conspicuous white houses.
Approaching Waiinu Beach, I couldn’t reach Shaz on the VHF despite several attempts, going backwards each time, in the now blustery conditions. Unlike previous landings, we had actually recently done a reccie to this beach so I knew where the best shore access points were. I landed easily in the low surf at mid tide.
Shaz arriving at Waiinu Beach.
Shaz arrives at Waiinu Beach campground just moments after I land. We got our ETA timings a little mixed up.
As the forecast conditions have set in, it looks like a lazy afternoon for us at Waiinu Beach. It’s a little gem of a spot, so happy to hang out here for the rest of the day.
Waiinu Beach campground
Shaz ……… Saturday 21 March 2020
We spent the night at Springvale car park in Whanganui. Up early around 6.15am in the dark, have a coffee and then head for Castlecliff beach to check out the conditions. Arrive about 6.50am, everything looks good at the moment so its all go! The wind is supposed to get up today, so even if Brent makes it to Kai Iwi that’s another 1.5 hours off the next trip.
Brent all sorted and launched at 7.32am.
You got to love the west coast, it gave him a quick reminder of how different the conditions are on this side of the island. He got soaked getting out, but he made it on his first attempt so that’s good! Took a video of his launch and sent to family and friends!
Wet start to the day!
I set off for Kai Iwi beach, stopping at Funky Duck for takeaway coffee. The man there said ‘You are up and about early this morning’, I said yeah, husband is kayaking around the North Island and he just launched from Castlecliff beach heading for Kai Iwi maybe further! He was impressed, and said ‘Well he won’t get Coronavirus out there!’ He said that he had already been to the supermarket on his way to open the cafe. The place was packed already at 7.30am and people filling up their trolleys, bloody crazy!! Anyway got my coffee and set off for the short drive to Kai Iwi beach.
Kai Iwi Beach
Once I got there I had a walk around and got some photos and replied to messages that I had got. Today is our daughter-in-laws birthday in Auckland, hopefully their plans for today go well. Unfortunately with the Covid-19 virus going around you just don’t know; things are changing daily. It nice that her sister is here from France to celebrate with her.
At 9.07am Brent comes into view and says that he is going to continue onto Waiinu Beach.
He wasn’t sure about the cellphone coverage between here and there so keep an eye on the iReach tracker as he may have to turn back!
I left Kai Iwi and headed for Waiinu beach turning off at Waitotora, just a 30 minute drive plenty of time. Before turning off I checked where Brent was on the tracker. He’s almost there. Didn’t think he would get there until around 12.30pm.
As I was driving through the campground gate way I saw that he was already on the beach, oops!!
Waiinu Beach
Brent isn’t going to continue today as he was battling a head wind to here! We have decided to stay the night here and go home tomorrow.
It’s $10 per night here, no facilities but a really nice quiet place to spend the night. However we can only muster up $9.40 in coins, hopefully that will be OK!
After dinner we sat outside and enjoyed a wine, while the sun went down!
So four months later, after Covid lockdown and Shaz breaking her ankle, we resume this North Island adventure. Have avoided winter paddling, so far; preferring the longer warmer days. With only a few paddle days remaining to complete this circumnavigation, there is a bit of anticipation in doing so now; winter or not.
01 August, 2020 WaiinuBeach to Patea
Expecting to have lost much of my paddle fitness since March, I planned to break the next few paddle days down to around 4 – 6 hours to be safe. This meant that Patea came into the frame as the next landing, about 4.5 hours paddle away. Patea has a narly reputation as a difficult river bar and shore break. The couple of reccies that we had done there recently definitely confirmed this.
Distance 26.0km Time 5.0hrs Speed 5.2km/hr
On the way through to Waiinu Beach yesterday afternoon we stopped at Patea for a look at conditions. The tide was at half flood with only a W 1.0 meter swell forecast. Never seen the river bar and beach so flat. Conflicting with this were some notes that I had made on recent reccies. “Swell W 1.1m (Swellmap); NW 0.8m (PredictWind) My observation at HW is that this is too dangerous. Dumping very heavily on the beach. River entrance too treacherous.”
The swell was forecast to increase significantly to W 1.8m overnight though, so there was no telling what I’d face when I got there. Launching at first light tomorrow would get me to Patea at about 1130hrs when there would hopefully be enough of the half ebbing tide remaining to safely cross the bar. The alternate option was to land on the beach just north of the river.
Secala stashed and ready on Waiinu Beach for a dawn launch.Camper (behind) at Waiinu beach campground
On arrival at Waiinu Beach I organised and dragged Secala to the beach ready for an early start. There was only one other person at the campground that night.
We both had restless sleeps in the camper last night. Eventually got up at 0500 for muesli and coffee before heading down to the beach by headlamp, to wait for first light and size up the shore break at nearly high tide. There was a little nervousness during the launch as it felt such a long time since my last west coast launch.
At first light, an hour or so before high water, I launched into a low dumping surf. Always good to get a dry start to the day. Made good time to Waipipi staying just outside the surf zone. The forecast light offshore (NE) breeze offered easy paddling.
Waipipi check in
The planned VHF checkpoint with Shaz at Waipipi didn’t quite eventuate with Shaz running a little late. She arrived soon after to check in. I confirmed that I was good to continue to Patea. The next landmark was the wind farm being established north of Waipipi. It seemed to take forever to leave the wind farm behind. A GPS check showed that I was barely doing 5km/hr. Whether it was my fitness or the tide, I’m not sure. I picked up the stroke rate.
This stretch of coastline from Waiinu is a mixture of rolling sand dunes and cliffs offering sanctuary if necessary. From the wind farm, the moles of the Patea river mouth were visible.
Wind farm under construction
Shaz contacted me by VHF from the car park above the Patea river mouth about a half hour before arriving. Shaz said the surf wasn’t too bad with occasional breaking surf as the sets rolled in. When I arrived I decided to give the entrance a miss as it looked like the tide had ebbed sufficiently to create a turbulent undertow at the entrance. Decided on a beach landing on the north side where the surfers were enjoying some ideal conditions. Watched the surf conditions for a while, and even though the bigger sets looked narly, there was a good period between them. I also observed a gap in the shore break that I could possibly exploit. After letting the next set roll under me and dump heavily on the shore, I managed to time my run perfectly to the beach for a dry run.
Landed (dry) on the north side of the entranceDragging Secala past the wreck of the SS Waitangi
Built in England in 1889, the Waitangi, originally named the Banks Peninsular, was 120 feet (36.58 metres) long, weighed 171 tonnes and had a top speed of 12 knots. She had been renamed the Waitangi by the time the Pātea Co-operative Freezing Company bought her in 1919. The steamer had refrigeration installed and was used to take meat out of the port and carry supplies for the company store on her return journeys.She foundered here with a cargo of coal.
SS WaitangiSurf club inside the river entrance. Shaz and camper waiting at the carpark.Looking out through the river entrance
Relaxing afternoon spent here watching surfers enjoying the conditions. And a quiet contentment to be back on the journey; to get through the paddle day “unscathed” and in better shape than expected.
Shaz ……….Friday 31 July 2020
On the road again to Waiinui so Brent can continue his kayak adventure!
Well neither of us got much sleep last night, not sure why it is so quiet here!
Anyway brent was up at 5am, got his breakfast, coffee and then got ready to start his paddle to Patea. He called me once he was on the water and ready to leave at 6.50am. It is about a 4 – 5 hour paddle to there! I headed off for Waipipi beach at Waverley around 8am, to see if I could see him around the half way point of his paddle. As I was running a little late there was no time for a coffee at Waverley, I’ll go there on the way back from the beach.
When I got to the beach, I drove down past the boat ramp drive way to where we had lunch one other day. No reception to see where he was on the iReach, tried the VHF and couldn’t reach him! Oops, maybe I’ve missed him! I drove back to the grass area above the boat ramp and could see him along the coast a little, so contacted him on the VHF! He said that he was going well and would see me at the Patea river mouth in a couple of hours.
I headed back towards Waverley and went for a coffee at ‘Main Street Cafe’! They do a great coffee, food and very friendly in a great atmosphere! Lots of little signs with different sayings on them, loved this one, most people can relate to this!
Main Street Cafe, Waverley
A couple of locals there getting their coffee and hot chocolates on their way to ‘Ripper Rugby’ for the kids! All dressed for the conditions, Hunting and fishing tops and red band gum boots!! Went across the road to the 4 Square for small bread rolls to have with our soup for lunch.
Driving towards Patea, you get a good view of the new Wind Farm being built – very impressive.
Great views of Mt Taranaki, to my right with plenty of snow!
Not far until we get home to New Plymouth now, and complete the North Island part of Brent’s epic journey!
Driving past Patea Area School and saw this great message at there gate! ‘Tomorrow belongs to those who prepare for it’, so true! Along the bottom of board it said ‘Growing good people for a changing World’.
I arrived at the Patea river mouth look out around 10.30am, great views of the river mouth and assess the conditions for Brent. About 11.15am I saw Brent in the distance and contacted him on the VHF, he said he would contact me again once he was a bit closer. Once he made contact with me I told him what it was like and suggested that I go down to the car park near the river mouth and assess the situation from there! The swells were up and down, some crashing right at the entrance and others further down the river. He decided to come in onto the beach on the north side of the river. I couldn’t see him from where I was, and with ankle still not strong enough to cope with sloping sand hills waited for him at the car park.
Managed to get some photos of the river mouth and the wind farm across the river in the distance. After we had some lunch with drove around the corner to the freedom camping area to set up for the night.
Waipipi wind farmPatea river entrance
OMG, some old friends/work colleagues Bryan & Shelley just pulled up in their camper van for the night. Nice to catch up with them.
02 August, 2020 Patea to Ohawe
Distance 35.8km Time 6.4hrs Speed 5.6km/hr
No rush to get on the water today. Waiting for the high tide at 0900 hoping that there would be enough water over the bar to paddle out the river entrance. Forecast swell was for 1.7 meters today, similar to yesterday. An early look at the river mouth, an hour before HW, wasn’t encouraging. The larger waves of the sets were still breaking heavily at the entrance. I had to size up my 200 meter sprint between sets. Timing was key …… as usual. There was a fair degree of apprehension as I launched at the boat ramp up the river. Shaz was heading for the wooden jetty near the surf club for a photo opportunity.
I paddled down the river to the jetty where Shaz was waiting with her camera; before heading downstream to size up the entrance again.
View up the river from the north mole. Calm water inside the entrance.
Observed a couple of sets roll through and break at the entrance. I watched the next set dissipate and committed. At sprint speed I headed out with the horizon looking flat. Then in the space of a few seconds two waves reared up at the entrance ahead. I hesitated momentarily trying to judge their life cycle; then committed. The only real option.
Hammer down I rode up the face of the first wave, stalling as I slapped over the crest. The larger 2nd wave was looming as I tried to regather speed. Seeds of doubt grew as I climbed through the face to near vertical, before cresting, hanging in mid-air, leaning forward and slumping down the other side. The coast now clear for the sprint over the bar.
At a safe distance off shore I let the adrenaline dissipate before giving the usual paddle wave to Shaz. Relieved to be clear of this major obstacle; I put Patea behind me.
Solid line of cliffs on this stretch. Mt Egmont icy cap mid photo.
This coastline is a solid line of imposing cliffs, save for small beach heads at the mouth of the Tangahoe and Manawapou Rivers. About half way to Ohawe (3 hours) the Manawapou River mouth offers vehicle access and an escape route is necessary. Shaz and I had recently done a reccie down Manawapou Rd to confirm that access was still available. The only other escape route through the cliffs is at Waihi Beach, Hawera about 5km from Ohawe.
Eventually the Ohawe surf club building appeared, conspicuously white against the farmland backdrop. Shaz made VHF contact reporting that a low tide rocky landing awaited.
Ohawe surf club ahead
On arrival Shaz advised that staying close to the northern rock wall offered a better sandy area to land. Ended up surfing in on a small wave over the rocks.
Ohawe boat ramp
Bloody good to be back into it after a 4 month hiatus; with anticipation high now of finally completing the North Island.
Shaz ………. Sunday, 2nd August
Good nights sleep thank goodness, was a little worried as some strange guy in a BMW sports car kept hanging around close to single female travelling on her own. She was travelling on a bike with all her gear, I’m sure she was fine and would know how to look after herself! However the parent in both of us made us a little suspicious, so kept an eye on her! He left around 9.30pm thank goodness!
Brent went for a walk down to the beach at around 7am to check out the beach and came back saying that that guy was sitting on the beach with a fire going. Looks like he’d been there all night! Weird!!
Got to sleep in a little this morning, as Brent was having a later start today! He is heading for Ohawe today just north of Hawera. I managed to get some video of him getting out of the river, only wish I could have managed to walk on the sand dunes and gone over to the river wall too get better footage. However Bryan was over there and looked like he was videoing it, so here’s hoping that I can get a copy of that.
OMG, that weird guy has turned up in his car again (9.15am) and parked right near her camp and just sitting in his car.
I left Patea about 11.15am and headed for Ohawe where I will meet up with Brent before heading home!
Decided to stop in Hawera for a coffee before going to Ohawe. Amazing views of the Mt Taranaki today, completely different view from this side to New Plymouth side! Stopped at the turn off to Ohawe beach and took a photo of the mountain.
Parked up at Ohawe beach with an awesome view back down the coast towards Patea. Have a long wait before Brent is due here, so heated up some soup for my lunch and then watch a movie on my iPad Pro.
Around 2.30pm I saw Brent in the distance, so got the coffee ready to put on when he gets closer. He came ashore at 2.55pm onto a rock shoreline.
As I can’t go down to the beach with my ankle, I put the coffee on and soup for his late lunch.
By the time we packed up and headed for home it was after 4.15pm, but a good day’s paddle for Brent.
15 August, 2020 Ohawe to Opunake
Distance 38.3 km Time 5.73 hrs Speed 6.7 km/hr
The 2nd wave of Covid restrictions is again impacting planning. Packed up the camper on Thursday evening for a hopeful early trip to Ohawe on Saturday morning. The government Covid lockdown announcement is due tomorrow that would put an end to this trip if a level 3 was announced.
Friday ………….. fortunately only Auckland is staying in level 3; so it’s all go.
The plan this weekend is for two short paddles finishing up at the Cape (Bayly Rd). This will be the launch point for the last leg on the North Island circumnavigation. The Auckland lockdown is preventing family from travelling down to be at the Ngamotu Beach finishline, so hoping the lockdown will be lifted soon.
Ohawe is only an hour road trip from home. It’s a clear and cold morning. Our ice covered mountain dominates the vista as we drive pass frost covered paddocks and iced up curbside windscreens.
At Ohawe boat ramp we emerge gingerly from the camper to clear skies and sub zero temperature. Shaz braves the conditions to help me set up.
Shaz sends me off to the Ohawe beach public toilets!
The sea is smooth for now, with a moderate SE forecast to develop through the day. The SE has nasty reputation in these parts. The plan for the early start was to get to Opunake (6 hours) before a potential SE blast.
Ohawe beach at high tide
Easy launch at HW with frozen fingers despite wearing gloves. Our first checkpoint is Kaupokonui (2 hours) to reassess conditions. The cliffy coast has many more breaches now, providing some comfort of an exit if conditions deteriorate.
Kaupokonui beach VHF check in with Shaz
A light E offshore breeze veered SE 10-12 over the first couple of hours. The following wind provided easy paddling; while the mountain remained peripheral as our heading slowly gained a more northerly component.
Opunake Beach
Opunake seemed to come slowly. My time and distance judgement remains impaired after the long Covid lockdown. Finally came into the sheltered lee of the familiar Middletons Bay. Shaz was parked just above the boat ramp where we would stay the night.
Approaching Middletons Bay boat rampMiddletons Bay boat rampOur park for the night.
Shaz ……… 15 August 2020
Early start today up and showered by 6.20am, breakfast and then on the road by 6.45am. Bloody cold this morning, 2 degrees leaving home and progressively getting colder down to -2 degrees through Eltham, Hawera and Ohawe. Brent was outside unloading his gear from the van in his shorts and jandals! Bloody mad, I had my warm clothes and gloves on and I was freezing. I made a cup of tea and he came in to have that and thaw out before putting his kayaking gear on.
Once he was ready he headed down to the beach to launch. I stayed up by the van to video his launch, it was a perfect day just bloody freezing! Brent came back up to say that the wind looked like it was getting up looking at the caps on the horizon and that he would call me a Kaupokanui Beach to see if he would continue or not.
I took some photos, but my fingers were getting cold, so went back into the van to warm up. Brent called on the VHF to say he was ready! He called a second time to say that his finger tips were freezing, I said so are mine, but I’m in the van!
After having some breakfast and tidied up I headed into Hawera to get a coffee before heading towards Opunake. Limited for choice and ended up getting one at McDonald’s, sorry but McDonald’s coffee is bloody awful!
Heading towards Opunake the view of the mountain looks magnificent!
The further around the mountain you go the view changes, still a beautiful sight! Took a few photos. Driving through Manaia, I tried to contact a friend who has recently brought a house here, but I know answer! Checking the InReach to check on Brent’s progress, he appears to be going OK!
Once I arrived a Kaupokanui I parked up down by the river with a good view to the ocean. Around 10.45am Brent came into view, we spoke on the VHF and he is happy to continue to Opunake.
Going past Kaupokanui RiverLooking north along Kaupokanui Beach
I drove onto Opunake getting a coffee and Kumara & Bacon quiche from ‘Arty Tarts Cafe’! OMG that quiche was amazing and their coffee is great also!
Arriving at the Opunake Boat Ramp, I parked in the Freedom camping space. You can stay up to 3 nights here, on a little bit of a slop but OK! It was another 3 hours before Brent was due to arrive, so had a little walk down to the boat ramp and along the beach. I only walked on the firm sand though as I’m still a little protective of my ankle, physio said not to walk on the soft sand yet!
Came back and had my lunch, then watched a movie on the iPad. Not long after that Brent came around the corner into the bay (2.30pm). I walked down to get some photos of him coming in, such a beautiful day just a little chilly though! Landing on the beach at 2.35pm.
Landing at Middletons Bay
16 August, 2020 Opunake to Cape Egmont (Bayly Rd)
Distance 29.5 km Time 4.2 hrs Speed 7.0 km/hr
Spent a beaut evening and night at sheltered Middletons Bay although, with the van on a bit of a slope, it meant lean times in the sleep department. The forecast today was for SE 15-20 increasing 25+ in the afternoon. Rounding the Cape will realise the peak of the SE before reaching shelter in the lee; north of the Cape.
Another early start would have me finishing the 4.5 hr trip by about midday. Having Secala parked and ready outside the door is always good for an early start.
Ready for launch. Camper behind.
It’s not so cold this morning although setting up the device’s was still a challenge with numb fingers.
The conditions were as flat as I’ve seen them over Middletons Reef. There was no reef break as I scanned from the high tide mark on the beach, pre-launch.
View towards Middletons reef
Launched off a lapping beach and headed for the shortcut over Middletons. Had an early adrenaline rush as a larger set rolled over the reef prompting me to meet them head on just in case. Settled into a paddle rhythm in a light E offshore that gradually veered and increased from the SE. Approached our first check at Kina Road which is a familiar landing zone having kayak fished out of here several times. Ahead of time, Shaz didn’t pick up my VHF call as I past by.
South of the Cape the winds gusted to 20kt with choppy seas before subsiding to a more comfortable ride, once around the reef off Parihaka Rd.
Cape Egmont under the mountain. Shaz in the van to the right.
In contrasting calm conditions I approached Cape Egmont where Shaz was parked up.
After a check in and a few photos I enjoyed the last 40 minutes paddle to the Bayly Rd boat ramp. Glad to have made it here this weekend. Now only one paddle away from completing at Ngamotu Beach. Unbelievable. Exciting.
Approaching Bayly Rd boat rampShaz on the sea wall on the left
Shaz ……….. 16 August 2020
Brent up and on the water by 7.10am and heading for Bayly Road Boat Ramp. Another beautiful day, cool start but not as cold as yesterday! Got a couple of photos of Brent leaving then headed back to bed for a little.
Brent said that it would take about 1 – 1.5 hours to get to Kina Road, so make contact there to see if the wind conditions are OK! Oops I feel back asleep its 8am, quickly made some breakfast then went to ‘Arty Tart Cafe’ for coffee before heading to Kina Road. I checked the inReach to see where Brent was, it looks like he has at Kina Road beach now, oops! By the time i arrived he had gone past, tried to make contact but I missed him. The wind can’t be hampering him as he is continuing towards Bayly Road. Got to Manihi Road, checked the inReach no point going down there as it appears that he has just gone past. I headed for the next road down to the beach. Lower Kahui Road in Rahotu, drove down but can’t drive to beach and with my foot wasn’t keen to walk down sandy walkway tot he beach. I decided to drive onto Cape Road, Pungarehu and go down to beach by the lighthouse and wait for him to come along! While I was waiting I decided to get some photos of the mountain and the lighthouse.
Such a beautiful day, got out of the van OMG it’s freezing out here! It’s a cold wind out there, so went back into the van and rugged up then went out to take some photos around 9.45am!
Passing Cape Egmont Lighthouse
Brent made contact on VHF saying he could see me (10.30am), he seems to be making quick time! I could see him taking some photos from the kayak, will be good to see them!
Photo from the top end of Cape Road, Pungarehu
I left and drove onto Bayly Road 5 minutes down the road and parked up! Boy its a busy place here today, so many vehicles and boat trailers! I got the camera and headed down to the boat ramp. Completely different conditions here, no wind at all and very warm! With my camera in tow, I got some photos of surfers climbing over the rocks trying to get to the waves. Not easy!!
Brent came into view around 11.05am, that was quick! Made contact of VHF and said I could see him in the distance.
Brent arrived at the boat ramp entrance 11.20am! That’s another 2 days knocked off the final stage of circumnavigation of the North Island. Only 1 more days paddle before reaching Ngamotu Beach, New Plymouth and completing Secala’s Kayak Adventure of the North Island!! So exciting, however the kids all want to be at the finish line when Dad comes in! Sadly Daniel and Alexandra live in Auckland, that means they are in Level 3 lockdown due to Covid-19 and can’t leave! So as soon as they are out of lockdown (providing that we don’t all end up in lockdown) and the weather conditions are favourable Brent can finish!
25 September, 2020 Cape Egmont (Bayly Rd) to Ngamotu Beach
Distance 36.0km Time 7.3hrs Speed 4.9km/hr
The planets have aligned at last, with the whole family in town for the weekend and one paddlable day available while they were here. Forecast is for NW 15-20kts winds (beam on) decreasing in the afternoon, and a 1.5m swell from the West. Being a Friday, accomodating the work schedules of the “welcoming committee” meant a launch time of 1000hrs to finish the 6 hour paddle at 1600hrs. This is a much later than normal start time for me but could be an advantage today with an improving weather forecast.
Shaz and I left home earlier than necessary for the short 40 minute drive to Bayly Road after getting an early morning txt report from kayaking mate Martin Rook taking a look off Puniho Road. “Morning Brent, I’m at ‘Puniho Light’. Sea conditions lumpy 1mtr white caping, 10 to 15kts NWest, cold…….. A side-on, sloppy, wet paddle off the point, mate”. Rookie also advised yesterday that there was likely to be a strong southerly current working at the moment. It could be a workout today, but as my Scottish stepdad would say “A faint heart never won the fair maiden”. Due to this information I brought the planned launch forward half an hour.
I didn’t know what the launch would be like at Bayly Road in these on-shore conditions; at low tide, where there are reef breaks on either side of the channel. It would be a bugger not to be able to get out at all!
On arrival at the boat ramp, Rookies observations proved accurate; although, as the flags on the Secala (below) showed, I would be experiencing head winds to start. This is a day where conditions would call the shots. Shaz said she would check in on me at Stent Road and Puniho Road to make sure I was OK to continue.
Relieved to see a clear route through the boat channel.Suiting up ……. and loading up Secala with extra “ballast”.Secala lower n the water. Some dry bags of camping gear and a few full water bladders to help with stability.
Once out through the boat channel it was clear that this was going to be a wet ride. The swell was coming from both the W and SW directions. And the forecast on-shore NW wind was actually a 15+kt headwind from the North. Shaz checked in by VHF at the bottom of Stent Road, just around the corner from the launch. Progress was slow but was managing well enough at this early stage. Shaz said she would check in again at Puniho Road.
These sloppy conditions and headwinds continued to Puniho where the winds eventually deferred to the forecast NW. Clearly the wind had been deflected parallel to the coastline between Puniho and the Cape. The big surf breaks pushed me out wide for the slow rounding at Puniho. Shaz checked in with me just around the point, and with wind now on the beam, I told Shaz that it would be OK and that I would see her at Ngamotu Beach. The conditions up to this point had been challenging. There was plenty of bracing as the stern got pushed around and the bow seemed more underwater that out of it. Later, our Garmin Inreach tracker would reveal that I was barely doing 2.0km/hr for over two hours through to Puniho.
I continued pushing out wide again off the Stoney River bar and as I did so Paritutu Rock with the Chimney, in transit, came into view for the first time. As I cleared the Stoney, I was able to put them dead ahead for the four hour paddle down the home straight to the finish …….Nothing was going to stop me finishing now!
This final course adjustment around the Stoney put the easing winds slightly behind the beam for a gentle but grateful assist although the ride remained uncomfortable in the confused swell.
The only reef break to be wary of now was the familiar Ahu’s. I was looking forward to clearing that as the straight run from there to the Sugarloaf Islands was over deeper water where the sloppy conditions should settle and be more consistent. Finally made contact with Coastguard on 61 to deliver an ETA of 1700. Had tried unsuccessfully to contact Coastguard after my check in with Shaz at Puniho. Although I did hear Rookie put a TR that he was heading out the harbour to meet me on the water at Seal Rocks.
At Seal Rocks I reconfirmed my ETA with Coastguard and got a call from Rookie to say that he had returned to the shelter of the harbour.
The gap between Paritutu and Lion Rock is a shoaling area to be mindful of, where there are only a few meters depth in places. At low tides with a moderate swell this area often breaks. It was high tide now as I approached the gap, and although the surface was quite confused due to the backwash and increased swell lift, there was no “break” that I could see. More bracing as I got thrown around though; and thankful (again) for the extra “ballast” on board.
Once through the gap with only a few hundred meters of the Port Taranaki Main Breakwater to go, I finally allowed myself to relax and realise that this journey was actually coming quickly to an end. I don’t know how many times, over the years, I had returned home through this harbour entrance in Secala. I do know though that there would never be a home-coming like this one ever again. As I enter the harbour Shaz calls up to confirm its me. She sounds excited. I look around for the welcoming committee Martin Rook and Sue Spannagl; who I know are on the water somewhere. I see them way down past the wave recorder. As I wait for them at the harbour entrance, I glance along the distant northern coastline and wonder for a moment at all the “factors” that had been critical to the success and enjoyment of this amazing journey. The most important one of them; Shaz, was waiting for me on the beach……………
Sue (in front), Martin and myselfThe best family in the world ……… (especially you Sprotty ……..perfect!)Beautiful Ava
Shaz ……… 25 September, 2020
Bayly Road, Warea to Ngāmotu beach which is the finish line of the North Island circumnavigation!
Left home (New Plymouth) for Bayly Road after 8am, Brent would like to be on the water by 9.30am. He is aiming to finish around 4pm, at least that’s what we have told people! However the weather conditions indicate that could be pushing it.
By the time we unload the Ute and Brent set everything up, the weather conditions look a bit choppy out there! He left the boat ramp at 9.35am and headed out. From the shoreline it looks like a bumpy paddle! After he contacted me on the VHF and said he was off! I asked him what it was like out there with the wind, he said ‘he was paddling into a head wind. He was hoping that it would be good enough for him to continue. I said that I would go down Stent Road and check in with him and see how he was going. I watched him paddle until he went out of view then headed off! Called him on the VHF at Stent Road, he said it was tough going but hoped that when he got to Puniho it would be easier. I said that I would make contact with him down there!
I realised that I never had any water or coffee with me so decided that I had time to go to Okato and get a coffee. I went into Downtown Okato Cafe to order coffee and there sitting at the corner table was some old family friends Ruth and Barry. I ordered my coffee and had a quick catch up with them. It was so nice to see them and learn that they have now retired and live in Okato, will have to catch up again sometime.
I drove back towards Lower Puniho Road to check in with Brent. The road came to a sudden end with a sign that said ‘Private Property’, bugger; now what! But as luck would have it a man was walking his dog at the entrance of driver way. I had a chat to him about access to the beach and he said that this was private property and can’t get down to the beach from here. Asking were the closet place was to access the beach I told him why I was trying to get down to the beach. That’s when he said ‘drive down to the second house along the drive, which was his place and park on the concrete pad around the front. He said to tell his partner that Dave said it was OK and he would be back soon and get his telescope out! I introduced myself to Donna and she showed me where to park, what an amazing spot with awesome views. Got out and had a look for Brent, on OMG the wind was blowing and damn cold! However sure enough there he was in the distance! Dave came back from walking his dog, he asked if I could see him so I pointed Brent out to him. He ran inside and came back out with his telescope and set it up by the outside picnic table.
Dave at Lower Puniho Road with his telescope
It was so good seeing him through it, you can see him up close and watch him paddling away! It turned out that Dave and Donna, were avid sailors and been all over the world sailing. So had a good understanding of the sea conditions, and were impressed that Brent was paddling around the ocean in a kayak. I left around 11.25am and headed back to New Plymouth to check up on our daughter who has broken her little toe this morning!
At home the family started to arrive, its so special for Brent that all the kids are home! He really wanted to get this final day done, but with Covid-19 it has been put off until now. Our oldest son Daniel and his wife Alexandra live in Auckland, so we had to wait for ‘Jacinda’ to let Auckland out of lockdown! We got the beer and ice sorted in the Chilli bin to take down to the beach. Then Daniel and I went around to Sue & Herb Spannagl place to pick up Sue’s kayak as Herb is away! She wanted to paddle out to meet Brent, as Herb is away and knew he would be out there to meet him! We told her that we would meet her down at the beach between 3.30 – 4pm.
While we were waiting to leave Ava was having fun annoying Uncle Daniel while he was trying to work.
We arrived at Ngāmotu beach just before 4pm, I had been tracking Brent on the InReach and saw that he would most likely be in around 4.30pm. When we arrived there wasn’t anyone there! I was a little surprised as Brent had been told that there would be some people from the Kayak club and fishing club could be there! I guess it is Friday and people are working, and the weather conditions really aren’t the best! Good old Marty was out on the water ready to come in with Brent and Sue was waiting for us so she could do the same! Barbara & Ian arrived when we did, Derek from Brent’s work also arrived. Oh and a Daily News reporter Jane Mathews! Fortunately Brent had been informed by a friend that they were going to be there, so had accepted it! Jane came and talked to me, asking questions regarding Brent’s circumnavigation and our journey! Diane turned up followed by Rob, Mike and Russell from Brent’s work. A couple of guys from the kayak club and then later Pete from ‘Canoe and Kayak’, came along too!
Brent finally came into view around 4.45pm, it appeared that he was stowing down his gear! But he just sat there, then I realised that Marty and Sue were nowhere to be seen! Brent saw them and was waiting for them to join him and come in together. Brent landed on the beach about 5pm, with family and friends cheering and clapping. The kids had made signs and holding them up, ‘That’s my Dad’ Daniel – No, that’s my Dad’ Vinnie – ‘Nope, that’s my Dad’ Katie & then ‘Festive Mistake’ Ben funny!
Piss takers …….. 🙂
Grandad got a big cuddle from Ava, so cute!
So proud of Brent, it’s been quite a journey and it’s been a pleasure doing it with him!
We all left and headed home to celebrate as a family, a few beers and pizza.
These paddle days occurred on two separate trips as we avoided unfavourable conditions getting through Cooks Strait. The first attempt to get round Cape Terawhiti was postponed at the last minute due to the changing conditions.
THIS TRIP: Reef Bay to Pukerua Bay – 3 paddle days
Distance 12.9km Time 1.9hrs Average Speed 6.8km/hr
Travelled to Wellington this weekend with the express aim of getting through Cooks Strait to Makara or Titahi Bay depending on tide and weather conditions. The timing of the ebb northwest flowing tidal stream known as the “Karori Rip” is key; while avoiding opposing weather tide (northerly wind) conditions. This tidal streams most notorious section is through the shoaling areas between Sinclair Head and Cape Terawhiti and peak flows occur where the tidal range is greatest (around full and new moon). Strong eddies and overfalls are common. The full moon is in 3 days. Keen to have conditions just right for this narly and unfamiliar section of coast.
But first I wanted to complete the short hop around the Wellington Bays to Owhiro Bay that is at the road end, near Red Rocks. This would reduce the paddle through the Strait by about an hour.
We arrived at Reef Bay from New Plymouth around lunchtime and were met by Dale, Jude, Suzie and the kids for the launch. A northerly was blowing (when doesn’t it blow in Wellington!) so planned on hugging the shore, knowing that there would be little shelter across the airport at Lyall Bay.
Cheers and waves from the family as I launched into Reef Bay. Unusually I felt a bit wobbly in Secala for the first half hour. May have been a hangover from some white water paddling last weekend.
Rounded Moa Point into Lyall Bay and beat into the gusty northerly until happy to cross the Bay to a boat ramp where I took a breather before heading across Houghton and Island Bay (inside Taputeranga Island) and on to Owhiro Bay.
Shaz arrives at the Red Rocks carpark, where we will stay the night; and says there’s a suitable landing beach landing just around the car park. Perfect! The beach is a little steep and stoney at low tide but fine in the 1.2m southerly swell.
Owhiro Bay. Camper (behind) in freedom parking area.Owhiro Bay. Karori Rip around Sinclair Head (top left).Owhiro Bay. Secala on the beach. Camper in carpark behind.
Casual start to the day as my launch time is to coincide with the Wellington high tide at 1300hrs. It’s only about a 5 hour paddle to Makara. Yesterdays weather forecast suggested light wind conditions today until a 20kt northerly comes in later tonight. This forecast changed during the morning, predicting the northerly would arrive earlier in the day than I had hoped. Chose to abort the paddle to Makara and make our way home.
Shaz ……
Thursday 6 February 2020
Relaxing start to the day, stayed in Whanganui over night. Brent said there was no hurry to get to Wellington last night. Arrived at Eve Bay, Wellington around 11.15am. We message Dale on the way and he is going to come and see Brent off this morning!
Started to unload the kayak and gear, when Dale and Judy arrived. And not far behind them was Suzie and two of her boys Ethan and Sam. Great to see her again the last time was in France!
Brent was on the water by 12.05pm, with a fan (6 of us) farewell from the shoreline!
Brent said that he was only going as far as Owhiro Bay today, as the wind was up! Normally only an hours paddle in good conditions, so more like 2 hours today!
Dale said that they will catch up with us later on at Owhiro Bay for a drink! I left them and drove to Owhiro Bay to get a park for the night, but every park was full with day visitors! So I headed back down the road to the Beach House & Kiosk cafe to get a coffee. It was there that I checked the inReach tracker to see what Brent’s progress was. It looks like he has come ashore in Lyall Bay. I rang him, but no answer so decided to drive back towards Lyall Bay to see if I could find him. Rang again and tried the VHF again but no reply, so thought I’ll wait a few more minutes to check the inReach again. It had updated this time and he was around by Island Bay, so back I went!
I saw him as I drove along the road, very close to the shore by the rocks! I called him on the VHF and he said that he was going back around the rocks toward Owhiro Bay. He told me to go and find a place to park up for the night, hope I have better luck this time. Nope ….. so drove around and found a park (non camping park only), Brent called on the VHF wanting to know the best place to come in. I told him to come in around the corner into the next little bay near the camping area. I decided to drive around there again to see if there were any parks yet, NO! So I decided to wait patiently and one came up near the end of the parking lot close to where Brent came in! I missed his landing as I’m trying to park, turns out he’s there guiding me into the park while I’m reversing.
Dale messaged and said that they would be coming over for a beer sometime later on after 4.30pm. People watching is a great pass time …… when you have time on your hands. That afternoon we saw some interesting people dressed up in medieval costume and another person dressed like someone from the movie Avatar!
There was even a wedding party having photos taken looking out over the ocean.
Had a great time catching up with Dale and Judy over a few drinks and snacks! Hopefully the weather will be better tomorrow so Brent can get around and through Cook Strait.
Lovely evening tonight, got a few photos
Evening view from Red Rocks freedom camping park.Owhiro Bay looking towards Sinclair Head
Friday 7 February 2020
Woke up this morning and the weather conditions are no better. So we are going to head towards home. Brent would like to check out some beach’s along the way for landing spots.
Spending the night at Foxton, staying at the local fishing club in the car park.
Locals told me there was a seal visiting and resting on the rocks by the river bank.
We went to had a drink and meal at the fishing club, not bad and good price!
Manawatu River from deck of fishing club.
25th February, 2020
Owhiro Bay to Makara
Distance 29.1 km Time 5.5 hrs Average Speed 5.3km/hr
The Cooks Strait weather forecast and tidal conditions aligned again for this midweek dash down to Wellington. Left New Plymouth yesterday (Monday) afternoon hoping to get a camper van spot at Owhiro Bay. Unfortunately all the allocated freedom parking spots were taken. We followed the road back around the Bays until we found a parkup spot in Lyall Bay.
Parked up at Lyall Bay
After a quiet night we were up early to get back to Owhiro Bay and be ready to launch at dawn. The HW at Wellington was at 0700hrs; from which time the tidal stream would flow northwest around Cape Terawhiti. A little earlier at Sinclair Head.
Got Secala off the roof rack in the dark and completed setup by headlamp while the rest of the campervaners were asleep.
Launched at 0620 when light enough to dodge the rocks. Arrived at Sinclair Head half an hour later after passing clearly evident Red Rocks. The westward tidal flow had started at Sinclair Head. Considered, for a moment, cutting through the rocks in the calm conditions until a sizeable surge broke through the gap turning into a tumbling mess. Took the outside route!
Red Rocks (mid photo)
Clearly a good flow in play (two days after the New Moon) as I steered inside Thoms Rock directly towards the prominent Karori Rock. Within the “Karori Rip” area now, an emerging tidal race was evident within the shoaling overfall area inside Thoms Rock. Constant scanning ahead to have enough time to skirt around the worst of the turbulence.
Karori Rock ahead. Tongue Point on the right.
GPS would later show that my speed peaked at 12km/hr several times through this area. The calm looking surface fails to convey the significant turbulence in the area. Came in close for a good look at Karori Rock. This light hasn’t been operating for about 25 years, but the remains of the treacherous access is still evident. Hard buggers who built and maintained this, back in the day.
Karori Rock. Oteranga Head on the right.The dark side …….
The next significant tidal race was from the north end of Oteranga Bay to Cape Terawhiti. Hugged the shore towards Ohau Point.
Cutting through the breaking reefs towards Ohau Point. Mana and Kapiti Islands in the distance.
The high water at Makara is 4 hours behind Wellington and still flooding. From Ohau Point the influence of this tidal stream dominated to slow me down for the last 2 hours to Makara.
Ohau PointRounding the Point into Ohariu Bay (Makara Beach ahead)Shaz guiding me into Makara Beach
For some unknown reason I had a heavy prolonged bout of the hiccups during this section making life unpleasant. Was very glad to see Makara and get out of Secala for a stretch. It was only lunchtime, but did not feel like getting back on the water to finish the short 3 hour paddle to Titahi Bay.
Happily decided to hang out at Makara and watch (and assist) all the activities at the boat ramp and take a walk along the Makara walkway. The last time Shaz and I were at Makara, a few years ago, was the moment I brought up my thoughts to kayak around NZ ……… and that I wanted her to be my support team.
Gazed several times across the Strait towards The Brothers, anticipating my next big challenge – a Cooks Strait crossing.
Makara Stream at north end of Makara BeachCamper parked up by the boat trailers. Our park for the night.Makara from the walkway
Shaz ………… 25 February 2020
Awake early this morning, 4.40am but got up at 5am! Spent the night at a spot looking across Lyall Bay towards the airport, as there were no spaces at Owhiro Bay!
Lyall Bay and Wellington Airport
We were on the road by 5.17am towards Owhiro Bay so Brent can launch ASAP! Got to Owhiro Bay, Brent started unloading the kayak and his gear while I got some food ready for him. So cold and dark this morning, 2 layers of clothes to keep warm! I helped Brent down to the shore line with his gear and then he was ready to go. Brent was on the water by 6.17am, just started to get a bit lighter now.
Launched into Owhiro Bay
He said I’ll see about 10am at Makara Beach. I took some photos of Brent launching but it was too dark and the quality wasn’t very good on my camera and cellphone. I did get some sunrise photos with a cruise ship and ferry in the background, not to bad!
I’m parked illegally, so moved once a park became available in the camping area.
Put the kettle on for a cup of tea and made some toast as I have time to kill! Around 7.30am a little bit of drama started, wasn’t sure what was going on for a while. People were pointing up the cliff at something and then a man tried to climb up the cliff. He kept on slipping backwards as it was loose gravel. Next thing a lady came running along the beach with her dog and stopped the Park Ranger who was taking down the camper vans number plates. I couldn’t help but to hear their conversation. There was a dog stuck on the cliff face and the owner was trying to get to it! She said that she had asked someone to ring for help. So Doggy rescue is under way, no kidding! The Park Ranger drove down and started to climb up the ridge down the far end. The dog owner had completely disappeared; couldn’t see him anywhere. Next thing you know the Fire Service turn up (7.30am) with four fire man aboard, one stayed with the truck and the other 3 headed towards the lady standing on the road below where the dog was!
Two of them spoke to the ranger as he came back and then headed up the same ridge but going up much higher and around so they could come down the other side of the dog. After a couple of attempts using ropes etc, he couldn’t reach the dog and headed back to his partner.
As he was doing that another Fire Service truck (8.30am) turned up, with a special rescue unit. Four fireman heading over towards the group that was at the base of the cliff and then walked up the same ridge as the others had gone.
One of them was ahead of the other 3 guys, he walked around the cliff edge and then proceeded to go straight down the cliff face with a pick thing he kept on stabbing the ground with, to check that the ground with stable and not loose gravel.
By 9.02am the fireman reached the dog, one happy dog I might add! Oops, it was time for me to go, or Brent will be waiting for me at Makara beach.
Head for Makara beach by 9.05am, had a good run with the traffic guess the busy time had passed. I arrived at Makara beach @ 10am
Makara Beach
Made a coffee @ 10.35am, no sign of Brent – obviously taking a bit longer than expected. Put coffee in thermos and boiling water into his cup to keep everything hot. Made him a sandwich and boiled a couple of eggs. Lots of fishing boats going out off Makara beach and looks to be some divers going for paua.
Brent arrived around 11.50am however he wasn’t feeling to well! He had a coffee and his sandwich hoping that he would feel better!
After a while he decided to call it a day and rest up, hopefully tomorrow will be a better day. Lots of people out fishing, spear fishing, paua, Kina, crayfish and who knows what else! So he paddled his kayak up the Makara Stream where the boats come in at high tide.
Up the creek ………
Speaking to a local we are able to stay here the night around by the boat ramp!
Time to practice taking some photos, great spot nice scenery and plenty of seagulls and ducks!!
One lady pulled up in her car and was feeding them out of her window!
Really nice evening, we had a drink down by the waters edge and watched the sun go down.
26th February, 2020
Makarato Pukerua Bay
Distance 29.7km Time 4.4hrs Average speed 6.75km/hr
Very pleasant layover at Makara yesterday. An advantage of not having time pressures. Stopping to enjoy places, even when the weather is good, is not a hard decision to make.
And an easy launch today just outside the camper door at the mouth of the Makara Stream. The tide not quite full enough to paddle down the stream. Conditions were perfect again today offering the chance to rock hop around to Titahi Bay.
Departing Makara
A Cooks Strait crossing to The Brothers looked very doable today. Our next return to Makara will be to do just that.
Rock hopping. Pipinui Point ahead with Mana Island in the distance.
Surprised to see a couple of fishermen on Boom Rock this early in the morning. Paddled inside their cast zone for a wave and a nod.
Fishermen on Boom Rock
Slicing over the shallows of Rock Point and Green Point, it was clear that I had a little bit of current going my way.
Approaching Rock Point. Mana Island on the left. Kapiti Island behind the rocks.Rock PointGreen Point. Te Rewarewa Point across Porirua Harbour in the distance.Arriving at Titahi Bay
Ended up arriving before Shaz. But that’s fine. It’s only 2 hours to Pukerua Bay from here before driving home. After a coffee and snack, headed off for Pukerua Bay in perfect conditions. It’s a luxury cruising into a beautiful beach for smoko!
Coffee time!
More rock hopping around to Pukerua Bay managing to scrape Secala’s hull over a couple of reefs. It’s a rugged and remote coastline despite the capital city being very close as the crow flies. The water is so clear that I reckon I could have picked out crayfish feelers amongst the rocks and seaweed.
Rounding Te Rewarewa PointWairaka PointCloser look at rocks at Wairaka PointArriving at Pukerua Bay
Great batch of scones for lunch on arrival at Pukerua Bay, before heading home. A very enjoyable couple of days on the water and the notorious Cooks Strait now behind us. Progress will hopefully pick up as conditions will be more predictable. Travel times will reduce every paddle day too!
Shaz ………….. 26 February 2020
Up later this morning, Brent didn’t want to leave until around 7am. He was up, had breakfast (last nights mince on toast) cup of tea then got dressed and ready to go. He was actually on the water by 6.49am.
I took my time getting sorted, then checked the GPS and it was a 42 minute drive to Titahi Bay from Makara beach. I set off in plenty of time and followed the route, however when I got to the Spencer Forest the large gates were shut – so the road was CLOSED! Great, so had to head back down the road that I came up, and in the end I didn’t save any time by going this way. In fact it took me longer! Oh well shit happens some times!
I arrived at Arnold Park in Titahi bay only to fine Brent standing there waiting for me, what the heck! He told me it was a 3 hour paddle, and should get there by 10am so would have been there in plenty of time! He said that the northerly wind didn’t get up like the weather report said!
Titahi BayOn the way to Pukerua Bay
Anyway I made him a coffee and some cheese on crackers before he set off for Pukerua Bay where he is coming in before we head home!
On arrival at Pukerua Bay the sea was flat like glass, however after and hour it started to get a little choppy. I found a park along side the road going around the beach front, under a tree for some shade as its very hot today! There are some beautiful homes along here with amazing views, lucky devils!
It is such a beautiful spot and a beautiful sunny day, I got my chair out and sat reading for a while. So relaxing!
After a while I decided to make some cheese scones for our lunch, as I put them in the oven Brent arrived. Good timing!
After lunch I wasn’t feeling to well, so laid down and Brent packed his gear up as we are heading home! After a lie down I started to feel a bit better so clean up and then we were ready to leave for home.
17 Jan ……….Left NP around 4.25pm heading for Te Awaiti. Decided to spend the night at POP property in Greytown arriving about 9.30pm, great spot plenty of room and $8 for the night.
18 Jan ……….Brent up early for his usual morning routine before kayaking; tea, toast with peanut butter, followed by coffee and muesli with banana.
On the road by 6.35am heading for Sandy Bay near Te Awaiti, to continue Secala’s adventure. Once again along the gravel road (judder bar) towards Tora!
Upon arrival conditions didn’t look to good, a bit choppy out there! Brent went out to do his recon of the situation! Not good, oh dear!
After a while we decided to go to Te Awaiti camp and park up. Along the road we could see something was going on up ahead, as there were cars and campers everywhere! As we got closer we saw a young guy walking along the road and he said that it was a music festival. Who knew in the middle of nowhere! Turns out to be Tora Bombora festival weekend.
As we got nearer we were stopped by local security (local guy collecting tickets) and asked if we were here for the festival, we said know that we were going onto the camp ground up the road. He explained about the festival, it was a group of family and friends that organise this festival around 600 people here! It goes for 2 nights until around midnight, know one to annoy here and no noise control! It was tent city, camper vans and motorhomes everywhere!
He said that if we wanted to come back and check it out later he’d let us in for free as we didn’t seem like the sort of people that would cause and trouble! We drove on and pulled over to get a couple of photos, a local was out for his morning run and said that he didn’t even know anything about it! Funny!
Drove onto Te Awaiti camp ground not many people here this time! Wouldn’t you know it, it starts to rain bugger! Doesn’t look like there will be much kayaking going on this trip, so hopefully we’ll be home tomorrow in time for our daughter birthday dinner!
24 – 26 January, 2020
Our 2nd attempt to launch from Sandy Bay and round Cape Palliser. We have three days at our disposal this time. Last weekend we travelled to Sandy Bay to find the conditions different to forecast and very marginal on the only possible paddle day that weekend. Wasn’t happy to take the risk around Palliser then; however conditions looked good this time for a possible push as far as Wellington.
THIS TRIP: Sandy Bay to Wellington – 3 paddle days
Arrived early at Sandy Bay from Eketahuna Campground where we stayed the night. This time we were met by calm conditions but a bit more of an easterly swell running over the reef and entrance to Sandy Bay. Was planning to launch from the more exposed beach outside of the protected Sandy Bay boat habour but changed my mind when I saw sets regularly breaking over the nearby protective reefs. I still had to patiently time my sprint through the boat harbour gap in the reef between the swell sets. No boats launching so far this morning. On the water by just after 0800 and keenly anticipating a rounding of Cape Palliser today. Was confident enough in todays forecast not to load up my solo overnight gear. White Rock could be a fall back landing if needed. Or return to Tora. Was also good for the timing of the westerly ebb flow around the Cape when I would arrive there in about 4 hours.
Manurewa Point just south of Sandy Bay launchManurewa PointTora Farm Settlement
Tora Farm …… about an hours paddle from Sandy Bay
Cray fisherman off Te Kaukau PointWhite Rock (center) and its offshore rocky extension (left)
Would have very much liked a closer look and camp at White Rock. Maybe another day.
Cod Rocks with Cape Palliser in the distance
Excited to see Palliser lighthouse over Cod Rocks. Perfect conditions to enjoy such big country.
Approaching Cape Palliser. Access steps just to the right.
Holy crap!! Shaz called up on VHF from the lighthouse at the top of a looong set of steps. Feeling pretty chuffed rounding this Cape. One of the major milestones of the North Island.
Headed straight for Te Kawakawa Rocks, not sure if I’ll find a short cut gap through the reef. I see Shaz driving our camper back along the coast road towards Ngawi. Plenty of driving for her today.
Approaching Te Kawakawa Rocks. Ngawi just around the corner.
Against my better judgment I did cut through Te Kawakawa Rocks. The easterly surge offered up a little adrenalin swerving through the shoals to the lee side of reef.
Approaching Ngawi. Shaz and the camper (center right)Ngawi beach
Ngawi turned out to be closer around Te Kawakawa Point than I thought. It just suddenly appeared! A pleasant change to the norm where destinations tend to be further away that expected. Great end of paddle coming into beautiful Ngawi.
Shaz …….
Friday 24 January 2020
Up early and headed off for Te Awaiti so Brent can get an early start. Arrived around 7.30am and conditions look good at this stage! Brent was all ready and on the water by 8.11am.
Access to Sandy BayLaunching at Sandy Bay
I cleaned up the dishes from breakfast and headed down the road and parked up watching Brent until he disappeared out of my sight! Then I headed off for Martinborough to get some bananas! Arrived in Martinborough around 10.15am, got the bananas and had a coffee at one of the many cafes. Everyone was very busy this morning as there was an American car rally. Finished my coffee and headed to Ngawi and Cape Palliser.
I drove onto Cape Palliser to see if I could make contact with Brent on the VHF. On an impulse I decided to walk up to the lighthouse! OMG didn’t look so far until you climb the 252 steps up! Great views, so worth it even know I paid the price with back playing up again.
View from Palliser Lighthouse
Could see Brent getting closer to the Cape, so contacted him on the VHF and told him where I was! I think he was surprised and pleased at the same time! Got some nice photos along the coast and Brent in the background. Brent said that he would be another 30 minutes before getting into Ngwai, so go ahead and find a place to stay the night!
Once back down the steps, I drove back to Ngwai and found a spot right on the beach!
Sunset at Ngawi Beach. Profile of the South Island in the distance.
Saturday, 25 January, 2020
Ngawito Te Humenga Point
Distance 9.1km Time 1.3hrs Ave Speed 7.0km/hr
Had intended to do this small section yesterday but by the time we had spread out in the camper and had lunch at the Ngawi campground we didn’t feel like packing up or giving up our great parking spot. Although Palliser Bay is forecast to be calm tomorrow, there are strong northerlies due in Wellington. Decided to have a lazy day today and do this small section in preparation for the push for Wellington tomorrow, when the northerlies are forecast to be not as strong and arrive later in the day. Departing from Te Humenga Point instead of Ngawi saves about an hour on the paddle across Palliser Bay.
No rush this morning. Cooked breakfast and casual launch into a calm Bay.
Through the rocks off NgawiTe Humenga Point, one hours paddle away
While Shaz and I were trying to co-ordinate a landing spot on the VHF, a cray boat over hearing us, cruised up to me and offered up some landing suggestions. Always keen on local knowledge, I asked about the likely conditions in the middle of the Bay. When they asked where I had come from and what I intended to do, they simply shook their heads while offering up some expletives under their breath. Mostly referring to my sanity.
Their stories supported others I had heard of the area. “You’re exposed out there from every direction!”. “If a NW hits you through Windy Point, you’re f………..toast”. “You’d be crazy to leave shore in any kind of northerly in the Bay”.
After the advice and a chat, the skipper handed over a couple of crays. Probably thinking it could be my last supper!! Awesome.
Friendly cray boat offered up a couple of crays!
Shaz found a good landing spot with easy beach access just round the corner from Te Humenga Point.
Our access to the beach. Turakirae Head in the distance. My first waypoint tomorrow.
Spent the rest of the day having a look around the area including climbing up Palliser Lighthouse, checking out the seal colony and getting some paua off Ngawi. Only needed to be 20m off the beach in chest deep water to get a good feed.
252 steps up to Palliser Lighthouse.View east towards Cod RocksWest towards Te Kawakawa Point in the distanceCray boat launching Ngawi styleOur roadside camp. Te Humenga Point behind.
The fisherman off the “Joker” saw us on the roadside as he drove past and stopped for a another chat. Intrigued by what I was doing and my intended paddle across the Bay. Wished me luck and offered to come pick me up if I found it too tough!
Enjoyed a great dinner of paua and crayfish, before setting Secala up for tomorrows pre-dawn launch. I was planning on a 0430 launch (an hour before first light) to get across the Bay in the best conditions ……….; and into Wellington well before the predicted northerly.
All set for an early launch. Hope conditions are the same in the morning.
Shaz …….
Saturday 25 January 2020
A little sleep in today, weather report says wind strong around into Wellington. Had a cooked breakfast (made by Brent) and a nice coffee. Then he headed off down the coast about an hours paddle from Ngawi, where we camped last night.
Launching at Ngawi
He set off and I drove down the road to see where he could come ashore. He wanted me to check out Te Humenga Point. Found a spot opposite Palliser Bay Station where boats obviously Launch from. Looked a good spot to me! So I turned around, drove back up the road and saw Brent and called him on VHF radio! Told him where I thought was a good idea he said he’d get back to me! As I was watching him I saw a boat pull up beside him and they were talking for a while! Once they left he called on the cellphone and said they told him I could go down to that point through the gate no problem! So I headed down the road turned in the gate an drove down almost to the end but stopped before the turning area as it was just soft sand! There was no way I was driving on that and getting stuck, so made the decision to back out the long drive as I couldn’t turn around! Hoping the whole way that know one was going to come in behind me, thankfully they didn’t! Called Brent and told him, he said to go on where I have suggested earlier.
Brent landed on the beach avoiding the rocks! Local fishing man was just about to launch his boat straight off the beach. Brent offered to help him and asked if we would like a crayfish as he was going to check his pots. Brent said thanks but the fisherman on the boat I saw him talking too gave him 2 crayfish, yummy! He backed his 4wheel motorbike and hooked the boat and away he went! Another family arrived and were going diving for paua, when he came in he said that it wasn’t a good spot for paua.
Brent came in and parked up thinking about what we were going to do for the day. Had a cup of tea then decided to pack up all the gear, then went for a drive towards Ngwai and see if we could find a good spot for paua. The area that we through we could go in we couldn’t access. We drove on towards Cape Palliser stopping at the seal colony.
Seal colony near Cape Palliser
We parked up and went to have a look before heading back to Ngwai as Brent wants to catch the low tide as he was going diving for paua.
We got to Ngwai and Brent went straight of the beach in front of the camping area. While he went diving, I made some scones for our late lunch. While I was doing this some guys turned up and were getting ready to go spare fishing and diving for paua. Behind their Ute they were towing trailer with a 4 wheel motorbike on it! On top of the bike tied on the front was two deer heads, one was a 10 spike and the other was a 11 spike. Then the Ministry of Fisheries turned up and checked peoples catch for the day.
Once Brent got his 10 paua, he came back and had some lunch. Then he got the paua ready and put into the fridge.
Once he got changed we headed back towards Cape Palliser as Brent wants to walk up to the lighthouse. I waited in the camper while Brent went up as I wasn’t going to do that again, once was enough for me!
From there we went back to our camp site for the night opposite Palliser Bay Station.
Roadside camp near Te Humenga Point
Set up camp and got our dinner ready, Brent cooked the crayfish on the BBQ and I cooked some corn and veges a glass of wine!
It is a beautiful evening and got some awesome photos!
Calm evening in Palliser BayReady for early launch tomorrow
Sunday, 26 January, 2020
Te Humenga Pointto Wellington
Distance 40.4km Time 8.05hrs Ave Speed 5.0km/hr
My original planning for Palliser Bay was to follow the shoreline and be prepared for an overnight camp at Corner Creek (NW corner of Palliser Bay) if necessary. Crossing the Bay from Te Humenga Point takes you 12km from land in every direction. The furthest I have been offshore on this adventure. Conditions needed to be perfect.
The forecasts from every source were consistent. Calm in the Bay all day with a northerly rising to 20kt in Wellington later in the afternoon. With an early start I was planning to be in Wellington well before then. Crossing the Bay would take 4 hours, then I will have the safety of the shore again.
Set myself for an 0330 rise but sleep was elusive. The open skylight in the camper van was rattling on its hinges in the wind during the night. It’s meant to be calm! Not encouraging. Decided then not to risk a launch until first light so that I could get a better handle on conditions.
Eventually got up when there seemed no point in lying in bed any more. After a quick brekkie, I fully preparing under headlamp and waited for first light. Could make out the sillouette of Turakirae Head in the distance. There is a light easterly rolling down off the hills behind. Eased Secala into a the flat Bay with the breeze behind me.
Sunrise revealed a beautifully calm Bay. With the light tail wind I was making good time towards Turakirae Head. Within an hour of the Head a strong current pushed me into the Bay; and then a stronger counter-current thrust me seaward as I approached the rocks off the Head.
Approaching Turakirae Head
Once across the Bay, the tidal flow will be in my favour around the Wellington entrance. My aim is to get across the harbour to Owhiro Bay today.
Rocks off Turakirae Head. Always great paddling in close if you can!Baring Head behind the rocks off Turakirae Head.Approaching Baring Head. A northerly starts to make its presence felt!
After a perfect trip across Palliser Bay a northerly breeze picks up towards Baring Head. White caps can be seen in the distance through the harbour entrance. Rounded Baring Head close in through the rocks and came ashore so I could txt Shaz to say I would come land somewhere across the harbour entrance, instead of going to Owhiro Bay.
Landed near Baring Head
Battled to Pencarrow Head over the next 1.5hrs as the northerly increased to 20kts. Tucked into the shore for a bit of relief before landing again in the lee of Pencarrow to txt Shaz again. Aiming to land across the harbour at Reef Bay.
Ashore in the lee of Pencarrow. Baring Head in the distance.Approaching Pencarrow
Relaunched and weaved through the rocks around Pencarrow and made some ground to windward into the harbour. Saw the Interislander ferry approaching Wellington harbour so continued following the shoreline until it passed before taking on the channel. Paddling at a 45 degree angle upwind of my destination and constantly checking a transit bearing to ensure I wasn’t loosing too much ground out the harbour. A good amount of chop through the channel with wind against tide conditions. Once inside Barrett Reef the chop eased right off and could make straight for Reef Bay. I could make out the reception party on the beach. Landed to a great reception by Dale (brother), Judy, Jono and Souvaly. Our biggest reception on the trip so far.
Shaz …….
Sunday 26 January 2020
Brent was up early, very early (around 4.30am) to make the most of the good conditions and who knows what waits for him around the corner into Wellington.
I was woken up around 7am when a fisherman turned up to launch his boat. Oh well never mind, time to get moving anyway!
I headed off for Owhiro Bay, Wellington, its a 2 hour drive! Programmed my GPS on phone and off I went, nice day and not to much traffic on the road. As I arrived at Owhiro bay I checked inReach to see where Brent was and it looks like he has come ashore over the other side somewhere near Baring Head. Then he texted to say go to Dale’s (Brent’s brother) place and to track him on inReach, as he doesn’t think he will make it to Owhiro Bay as the wind is strong. I went to Dale and Judy’s had a coffee, before we went for a walk around the bay from Seatoun to see if we could see him. He then texted again to say he was going to try and cross the harbour to Palmer Bay or Reef Bay.
We walked back to Dale and Judy’s place, and I followed them to Palmer Bay. The parking wasn’t that easy for a big camper van, but managed! The beach access was very rocky and not suitable for Brent to come in here. We suggested that he come in at Eve Bay not so rocky and a pebbly beach however! Our nephew Jonathon and his family turned up to see Brent come in also. So good having family seeing Brent coming in, special for him to see that people care about what he’s doing!
In the distance we could see him coming across the harbour, the wind is strong it must be such a battle for him.
He landed on the beach at 1.48pm, with the biggest cheer from his supporters on the beach!
After catching up and taking photos, then packing the kayak and gear away we headed home to Taranaki.
The Christmas break has come around again. Last year we based ourselves at Tutukaka campground in a tent. This year we have the luxury of our new campervan.
In contrast to last year, the weather forecasts in this next neck of the woods are highly variable, so paddle time could be limited. Not to worry …….. this is a terrific part of the country to relax and explore.
Distance 25.9km Time 3.6 hours Average Speed 7.2km/hr
Boxing Day and not fully energised to get on the road from New Plymouth even though todays forecast in the Wairarapa is the best for a few days. Tomorrow afternoon winds at Castle Point are forecast to ramp up to 25+kts from the NW (offshore).
Arrived at Akitio just after 1500hrs meaning a paddle start at around 1600hrs. Too late to get to Castle Point (6 hours away) today. Decided to get on the water and get as far as I can, then find a beach to camp out on, leaving only about a couple of hours paddle to Castle Point tomorrow before the predicted offshore winds kick in. The most likely target today is the Mataikona area and find a good landing.
The conditions are perfect at Akitio with the NE following breeze true to forecast. An easy launch in the lee of the adjoining reef yet still managed a wet start as the laden Secala nosed through the small surf. Swung around the reef and Akitio campground, where Shaz would be staying tonight, and set to hug the shoreline towards Owahanga. The distinctive Castle Rock is now easily made out in the distance, for the first time.
Even with a favourable breeze, I was conscious of the limited hours left in the day, so kept my pace up to ensure I gave myself enough time to find and set up a camp in daylight. With sunset at 2050hrs, I set a paddle deadline of about 2000hrs. This should easily get me to Mataikona, maybe a bit further.
This section of coast consisted completely of rolling hill pasture. Sheep and beef country. Passing close by Owahanga noticed the easterly swell picking up to 2m and by the time I reached Mataikona there was a good surge crashing over the rocky shoreline.
Houses at Mataikona ahead. Rocks (foreground) offer some shoreline protection just north of Mataikona River.Having a closer look at Mataikona
Preferring to avoid a rocky landing in these conditions, I turned to paddle back for a look at the beach just north of the river that has a reef offering some protection from the swell. Saw a much easier and softer beach landing here; and the added bonus of being pretty remote.
Coming into Mataikona beach
Easy landing and set up camp. Glad to have packed some storm tent pegs for pitching the tent on sand.
Mataikona beach. Castle Rock faintly visible in the distance.The reef offering protection
Sat on the beach with a tasty dehydrated chicken tikka masala and coffee watching the surf in the fading light. Perfect!
Spark is offering one bar reception here, so caught up with Shaz and checked tomorrow’s forecast. Light N turning strong NW in the afternoon. Perfect! A casual breakfast and decamp before an easy 2 hour paddle to Castle Point in the morning. Shaz would take longer to drive from Akitio than I would take to paddle to Castle Point.
Shaz ………..
26 December 2019 (Boxing Day)
On the road again today heading for Akitio. Left late around 10am, late night last night (Christmas Day) to much boozing with the boys!
Arrived at Akitio at 3.15 pm, Brent a little annoyed that he didn’t go to bed earlier last night! But hey it was Christmas!!
The weather is going to turn bad tomorrow, so wants to get on the water today if he can. After assessing the situation he decides to go for it and stay over night on a beach somewhere along the coast. So I help him get stuff ready, unload the camper and he loaded up the kayak with all his overnight gear while I got some food ready for him. He was all sorted and on the water by 4.12pm!
Ready to launch at Akitio
Brent told me to stay the night here in Akitio at the campground which I have done $18 for the night on a non powered site. Campsite right next to the beach, watched Brent until he disappear down the coast line.
Akitio campground
Friday, 27 December, 2019
Mataikona to Castle Point
Woke at my usual 0430. Slept well in the tent. No doubt catching up from last night. “In no rush this morning” I told myself, so rolled over and feigned sleep. At 0500 the tent started flapping which I tried to ignore. Moments later; more intent flapping. Bugger!
Got up to see and feel a steady offshore breeze out through Mataikona valley. Winds possibly ahead of schedule. Decided to pack up and get on the water asap without breakfast. So much for the casual start! One thing for sure around here ……. Wairarapa (esp Castle Point) + strong offshore wind = stay off the water
Mataikona sunrise
Surf was easy but managed to perfectly time a full frontal as Secala nosed through the low shore break.
Familiar offshore wind gusts through Mataikona Valley but OK. When away from the influence of the valleys, a northerly wind steadily increased, as I tried to hug the shore as best I could.
Castle Point with the prominent Castle Rock behind
Aimed for the lee of Castle Point once I figured I had given enough respect to the offshore tending wind through Castle Point bay.
Heading for the lee of the Point
Under the lee of Castle Point everything flattened out. Very cool arriving right under one of NZ’s iconic land marks. The landing was as smooth as a lake. NW winds steadily picked up during the morning though, to well over 30kts. Scary stuff. Glad my instincts kicked in to get on the water early at Mataikona.
Had to drag the laden Secala 100m or so along the beach to where we hoped to park the camper for a night or two. A fisherman called out from his fishing boat parked on the beach (see above) offering a ride on his ute. Another car driving along the sandy isthmus and stopped for a chat. A lot of interested and interesting people out there.
View of the Gap and Castle Point from Castle Rock
Paddling is out tomorrow according to the forecast.
A southerly rolling in the following day
27 December 2019
Late waking up this morning, so late leaving for Castle Point oops! Left Akitio at 7.39am and arrived at Castlepoint at 10.30am.
Brent was waiting for me! He had texted me but couldn’t read as I was driving, to say that the freedom camping parks had almost all gone! There was a couple of parks left, but not big enough for the van to fit. I just waited patiently and sure enough one came up! The turn over for parks here is amazing, coming and going all day! Brent has left his gear outside just in front of the camper, as to windy to put up top. Made a cup of tea and chilled for a bit, then went for a walk to the store about 10 – 15 minutes away and got some eggs and crackers. The store was so busy with people ordering takeaways and dining in! The sea is very choppy, not good for Brent at all! Brent went for a long walk and I stayed with his gear being outside! Plenty of people looking for a park for the night, self contained vehicles only……. yeah right! They have the sticker on them, but I doubt it very much that they are! The wind is so bad that the sand is swirly around going everywhere, including the van! Thank god we brought a Dyson vacuum cleaner. I cooked stir fry pork and rice for dinner, in our nice dry camper van! All the others were standing outside behind their vans cooking, not a pleasant time I’m sure! Couldn’t watch the news tonight as the satellite dish couldn’t pick up a signal, so plenty of reading was done before bed time. An amazing sunset tonight, everyone one was taking photos! I tried using my camera, still haven’t mastered the technique of using it probably! I should have taken some on my cellphone also, but didn’t.
Castle Rock under the sunset.
Shaz ………
28 December 2019
Slow start to the day; windy and raining most of the night. Rather boring really as not much to do here and parks to narrow to have awning out to have the door open. The weather gradually got better as the day went on! By late afternoon the conditions have improve considerably, hopefully Brent will get on the water tomorrow!
View from the camper van
Heading to Flat Point, looking forward to seeing Karen and Lance! Over the years I have heard so much about their place there!
Sunset not so good tonight, but the light house looked amazing. Tried the camera again without success, got one on cellphone which was ok!
Sunday, 29 December, 2019
Castle Point to Flat Point
Distance 48.2km Time 7.9 hours Average Speed 6.1km/hr
Up at 0400 for an early start. Drybags prepared for potential solo overnighter. Usual morning breakfast routine and weather check. One weather forecast had now changed to southerly 15-20kts. Based on recent experiences, that could mean anything from 15-30kts. Gun shy now. Wanted to wait for daylight so I could have a look at the conditions. At sunrise a moderate NW offshore was blowing out the bay. This was not forecast but could be just a land breeze? Decided to wait for a couple of hours to see how things shaped up and if the predicted SW would kick in. By 0900 the southerly had arrived but was light. Conditions were too good to squander. Was prepared to come ashore along the way, if necessary, to wait out a southerly, or even camp the night. Planned with Shaz to meet her at Riversdale (4 hour paddle) to reassess plans …….. if I get there!
Been keen on getting to Flat Point for some time now as Shaz’s previous employers Karen and Lance have a house there, and since they left New Plymouth for Masterton some years ago, we have not seen them. There has been an open invitation to visit them since they left. Getting to them by kayak is probably not how they expected visitors to arrive!
Loaded Secala up and launched under the lighthouse at 1000hrs. Rounded the magnificent Point and along the cliffs with minimal buffeting off the cliffs. Chatted with a crayfisherman who asked where I was off to. A little surprised that I was going so far, and with a “Good onya”; wished me luck.
Heading south down the outside of Castle Point
Set a steady pace and headed around Castle Rock for shoreline of Christmas Bay.
Approaching the gap and Castle Rock
Followed typical Wairarapa hilly dry stock pasture to Riversdale. Occasional farm houses. Plenty of places to pull into a remote beach if necessary. Paying the price now for applying ordinary sunblock earlier this morning rather than my usual Island Tribe. This was now running into the corner of my eyes with sweat. The southerly 8-10kts has subsided and started backing to the East as I approached Riversdale providing evidence maybe, that the forecasted stronger southerly would not eventuate. I was about 30 minutes behind my estimated 4 hours to Riversdale now.
Typical of the reefs down this section of coastRiversdale Beach ahead. Half way to Flat Rock. Uruti Point on far left.
At Riversdale chatted with Shaz by VHF to say I would continue on to Flat Point and be there in about 3.5 hours ……….. and reminded her to put a beer in the fridge. By Uruti Point the wind had backed further to a NE assist which eased the paddling effort. The next prominent landmark was Uruti Point that looked particularly messy as I got closer. Swell now from the NE & SE and the wind over the shoals and reef edge made it difficult to size up a good track through the turbulence. If in doubt, stay out; is the mantra. Still got surprised by some peaking reef breaks justifying the decision to stay further out. Latched on to a line of cray pots that, as usual, provided a good guide on the right line to take around the reef.
There were many isolated reefs between Uruti Point and Flat Point that, in isolation, were easy enough to negotiate. Had to be watchful of the rocks that still lurked just under the surface.
Whenever paddling, particularly close in to shore, its often a challenge trying to make out your destination against distant points of land. On this occasion I had three points fairly close to each other to choose from. Only one of these points, the closest one, had a low lying shoreline. Figuring that Flat Point was named for a reason, I was a little confused when it became clear that this one wasn’t my destination. The next two headlands were steep to the waters edge. All became clear as I rounded these points and the very low lying Flat Point was finally exposed.
At last …….. Flat Point exposed ……….. (behind the reef in the foreground)
Approaching Flat Point and still a couple of kilometres away, I saw a fishing boat arrive back at the beach and get recovered by a tractor. This gave me a lead on where to land and where the nearest vehicle access would be. Shaz had just arrived as I did, but could not get close to the beach with the van.
The shore is protected by a large reef that extends out and around the entire point. Found what I thought the best lead into the beach and cruised in through low surf. Pleased to have made it this far after a dubious start to the day.
Moments later Lance cruised onto the beach in his 4WD with Shaz, a big smile and a cold beer. What a welcome!
Flat Point looking northSecala secluded in the dunes with the blessing of this bach ownerA couple of cray fisherman launched in the lee of the reef.Typical sight along the beaches in this area
Local tips: The reef offers shore break protection at high tide up to a 2m swell. Even the cray fishermen don’t go out in the bay in a NW. Can easily paddle through channel between reef and Point during most tides (esp. low) during swells less than 2m.
Shaz ………
29 December 2019
Slept in this morning, wind still up! Brent decided to give it a go and loaded up the kayak with overnight gear just in case!
He was on the water by 9.50am from Castlepoint heading for Flat Point wind permitting, but to check in at Riversdale first.
Brent asked me to get some photos from the cliffs! I got as far as the lighthouse and saw him coming around the corner, there was no way that I was going to make it to the cliffs in time for photos.
Took what I could and then ran down the walkway to the bottom, across the sand up to where the camper was parked thinking that I could get a photo of him coming across past the inlet, but no he was to fast ……… missed him! Took a couple of photos, close up of the lighthouse also!
Cleaned up and sorted before leaving the car park, drove down to the beach front and parked up there for half and hour ………. so peaceful!
Left Castlepoint for Riversdale a 49 minute drive. Arrived at Riversdale around 12.30pm and parked up near a tree for a little bit of shade!
Riversdale Beach
Just in front of me on the other side of the fence is a Caravan that sells coffee (Alter Eco Coffee). The coffee was great and they had food available also (GF, Dairy free, vegan) raw organic food.
OMG, if you don’t have a 4 wheel motorbike here at Riversdale you don’t fit in ……. they’re everywhere!
Around 2.30pm Brent contacted me on VHF to say he was going to go onto Flat Point. Great, so I headed off to Masterton to empty tanks, fill water tank, get diesel and top up supplies. Brent messaged me to say that he would be at Flat Point by 5.30pm, I replied to say that I didn’t think I would be there by then as its a 1 hour drive from Masterton to Flat Point. Great road until you hit the gravel road, slows you down a bit! Amazing views from the top of the hills above looking down over towards Flat Point.
Arrived at Karen and Lance Scott’s at 5.50pm, then had to find Brent who was on the beach somewhere! There was no direct assess to the beach from the road. Lance and I drove down to the beach in his 4 wheel drive truck, through a locked gate to the beach. Brent was just where Lance thought he would be unloading his gear!
Lance with that all important cold beer
Good old Lance had a couple of cold one’s (beer’s) in a little chiller bag for Brent! We loaded all his gear into the back of Lance’s truck! Lance went and asked the guy who lives near the beach if Brent could leave his kayak by his place! Not problem then drove back up the beach onto their beach house. There are always people who want to know what Brent is doing, and listen with great interest!
It was so nice seeing everyone again Karen, Lance, their daughter Tracey, her husband and children, also Karen and Lance’s mum’s!
So nice sitting out on the deck having a drink with them all and catching up, followed by a lovely steak dinner. Early night for everyone, it’s been a long day!
30 December 2019
Slept in this morning, as conditions not good today for kayaking. So nice for a change, lovely being here at Karen and Lance’s place at Flat Point. Nice having a shower in their house as there’s a little bit more room to move!
While Brent went for a walk, I had a little catch up with Karen, so nice. After a coffee and something to eat I decided to go for a walk along the beach myself. Once on the beach I turned to my right to walk along the beach but it soon become apparent this wasn’t a good idea I was walking into a strong southerly wind!
Looking south from Flat Point
Turned around and walked down the beach towards the spot where Brent came in yesterday! Nice beach – tide starting to go out, the reef becoming more visible now! It’s so quiet and peaceful walking along here, no noise what so ever just the waves breaking against the reef and beach. Walking along I saw a golf ball wedged between to rocks, Lance was saying that there used to be a 9 hole golf coarse between their place and the beach.
Firmly lodged in the rocks
Walking along the road back to the house I caught up with Karen, Lance and their friends who had been down further along the beach.
We all went inside for a cup of tea, Karen had baked some scones for her visitors and was now making corn fritters for a late lunch around 2.15pm. Later on Brent went on the 4 wheel motorbike with Lance down to the beach as he was going to dive for paua with Glen.
Returning from a paua dive
Karen and I went for a nice long walk along the beach down to where the boys were diving for paua. The paua over here are huge compared to Taranaki!
Yum!
When the guys got back Brent showed me his hand that he had cut, luckily it didn’t go to deep!
Tonight Karen had cooked a lovely glazed ham with roasted vegetables and peas! So nice of them to invite us for dinner again, such a yummy meal! One thing about staying hear the beach you have early nights!
31 December 2019
Up around 7.30am this morning and Brent had already gone for a walk to check out the weather conditions. Looking out the window it still appears to be windy, bugger! I know he will be a little frustrated, but at the same time he won’t put himself in danger!
Made a coffee and toast, sat in the peace and quiet enjoying my breakfast!
Brent returned from his walk, conditions still the same and not likely to get out today! He said that he saw a seal down on the beach, I asked where but he said it had gone now! Decided to go for a walk myself and took my camera with me! Walking along the beach is so peaceful no one around for miles! Flat Point there is no tourists, no noisey 4 wheel motorbikes going up and down the beach, enough space between beach houses that you don’t annoy each other.
Talking to Karen and Lance there is a real feel of community spirit here, everyone gets together for special occasions!
Walking along the beach taking photos of the waves crashing against the rocks, beautiful morning!
As I was walking I saw something move on the beach it was a seal lying in the sun! If he hadn’t moved his head I’m not sure that I would have realised that it was a seal! I took a few photos of him without getting to close! He didn’t move, but was keeping an eye on me the whole time moving his head just watching!
I carried on down the beach and then back up the metal track and climbed over the fence, and back to the camper van. Brent looks like he has gone for another walk somewhere!
Betty and Marion saw me and asked if I’d like a cup of tea or coffee as everyone else had gone for a walk. Just lovely ladies, talked about their trips here to Flat Point over the years with Karen and Lance and how much they love coming here!
Went back to the van and Brent was back, I made some scones for lunch and just relaxed outside with the awning up!
Karen, Lance and all the family went down to the beach so the kids could go swimming! Great day for it, the kids had a ball!
Brent went off with a bag in hand to pick up rubbish on the beach, however this is one of the cleanest beaches I’ve ever seen! Had another walk myself and came across the family at the beach, Karen decide to walk back with me.
Brent got all his gear ready and took it down to his kayak on Lance’s 4 wheel motorbike ready for the morning as the weather is going to be good for some of the day.
With the gear to load up Secala
Tonight we had another lovely meal with the Scott’s family, not sure if anyone stayed up until midnight to see the New Year in or not! Glen made some yummy Paua chips!
HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE FOR 2020
Glen’s Paua Chips: Slice paua into strips and cover with ‘FogDog’ Premium Gluten Free shake and bake coating mix, then fry in hot oil until golden careful not to overcook.
Tuesday, 01 January, 2020
Flat Point to Sandy Bay
Distance 46.2km Time 8.3 hours Average Speed 5.6km/hr
Karen and Lance have been great hosts for the last 3 nights as we parked our camper outside their house at Flat Point, and a great place for some RnR. The remote beaches offer novelties of big paua shells scattered along the tidal zone and the occasional seal lazing on the beach. The birdlife along the shoreline is prolific with herons, terns, oyster catchers, shearwaters offering Shaz plenty of photographic practice. And the very friendly locals ……. particularly one local who offered more to the naked eye than necessary from her front window. (Found out later that the couple are naturalists)
Went snorklling for paua with Glen, in waist deep water and grabbed a crayfish from amongst the weed (which was returned as it was barely legal). What a treat getting some decent sized paua for a change.
Intending on an early start, I pre-packed Secala down at the dunes yesterday evening, thanking the bach owner as they were getting started with a few NY’s eve bevies.
Secala loaded up the evening before; ready for an early launch
Up at 0400 and keen to get going. Brekkie down, waiting now for first light (5am) to walk down to the dunes and paddle the channel between the reef and point. The forecasts are variable today; surprise, surprise. Some saying 10kt Sly turning NW 10-15 in the afternoon. Others say light Nly tending Ely. Either way, too good to miss. As is the norm for this section of coast, I am loaded up and fully prepared to pull in somewhere if needed. The next few days forecast are not good so want to get the most out of today. At the beach there is a light northerly and the tide is mostly out. Easy launch and paddle through the wide channel inside the reef.
Early (pre-sunrise) launch. NE breeze.
Sunrise as I entered the bay towards Honeycomb Rock. As 0630 rolled by I tried to raise Maritime Radio on Ch 67; then 16 to give a TR (trip report). This section of coastline has no cellular coverage at all, so Shaz will not be able to keep track of me most of the day. No response initially from Maritime Radio. Thinking it was a bit too early for them, especially on NY day, I continued paddling. A short while later though, MR called back on 67. After Happy NY’s exchanged, I gave Tora as my destination with an ETA at about 1500hrs and suggested that I may not be in range to close out my TR with my handheld VHF down Tora way. As agreed with Shaz I sent frequent inReach OK messages that she could get as she passed through possible areas of cell coverage on her road trip.
Honeycomb lighthouse (on the hill on right) and Honeycomb Rock (off the point ahead)Honeycomb Rock (prominent on right)
Retained the tailwind and good speed towards Honeycomb Rock and conscious of maintaining the progress while the going was good. I used Honeycomb lighthouse and the offshore Kahau Rocks transit as a good waypoint marker as I paddled between them. I was about 15 minutes ahead of my schedule. The conditions calmed as I passed Glendu Rocks and on to Pahaoa.
Glendu RocksPaddling through Kairingaringa Reef that offers protection for boat launching. A shed and tractors on the beach behind the rocks.
Paddled through Kairingaringa reef just off Pahaoa. Maintaining strategy of staying close to shore. Maritime Radio weather forecast had Nly winds still forecast for the day and these are translating now into the now familiar offshore gusts down through the valleys. The loaded Secala proves very stable as my paddle stroke shorten up to deal with the variable conditions.
Te Awaiti around the distant point
Then; contrary to predictions, a very light SE presents itself that rapidly bursts into a strong southerly. Unsure how strong this southerly would get around the exposed Point ahead, I took the opportunity to pull into a tiny beach through the rocks. Tantilisingly close to my destination now (only 6km short of Stony Bay) but still plenty of time in the day. Had been looking for a chance to come ashore anyway to relieve a “pressing” matter as I didn’t think I could hold on till Stony Bay.
Taking refuge from a strengthening southerly that whipped up unexpectedly off the Point ahead
Sent Shaz an inReach message as soon as I hit the beach, with a sitrep, in the hope she would receive it before she leaves internet coverage at Carterton.
Coffee time!
Made a windbreak to brew a coffee
Unexpected southerlies tend to be short lived, in my limited experience around here……!! Otherwise it could be an overnighter. Thankfully the southerly backed off after about an hour and I messaged Shaz to say I was hitting the water again. As I launched and made my way towards Te Awaiti the wind eased off completely. That’s the Wairarapa for you!
Just off Oterei River (Te Awaiti).
Looking for a landing now as I am likely to arrive at Stony Bay before Shaz. While passing Te Awaiti a couple of locals were chatting on VHF Ch6 so I made an “all stations” call asking for info on landing options with vehicle access. Got no reply.
Up ahead, where I thought Stony Bay was, a couple of boats were heading for shore though a gap in the reef. An obvious couple of lead poles were positioned on the rocks that guided boats through a gap in the reef. I lined myself up with these and cruised into a perfectly sheltered beach and boat ramp.
Boats lead me towards the protected Sandy Bay. The boat “leads” can be seen on the rock, marking the passage through the reefs.Inside the protected Sandy Bay
It turned out to be called Sandy Bay, according to the local boatie; one bay short of Stony Bay proper. Met and chatted with inquisitive boaties who hadn’t seen a kayak paddle into their harbour before! Couldn’t raise Maritime Radio to close out my TR. Glad I suggested this to MR earlier.
Local Tips: Expect winds from all directions and strengths. Forecasts are a guide. Hug the shore Always be prepared for an impromptu overnighter Stoney Bay has a boat ramp but it has a private locked access. Sandy Bay has a narrow channel (with beacon leads) completely flanked by reefs leading to a fully protected beach. Locals say the channel to Sandy Bay can be narly in rough conditions. There are more open beach landing options at Te Awaiti and Tora
Shaz ………
1 January 2020 (New Years Day)
Brent was up at 3.55am this morning, itching to get going and make the most of the favourable conditions while they last!
Got up around 8am myself, had some breakfast and then went for a work along the beach taking some last minute photos before leaving this beautiful place today!
Flat Point looking north. (Castle Rock very faint in the distance)
Got back around 9.35am and had a shower, then a cup of tea with Karen and family before leaving around 10.30am heading for Tora. Before leaving Lance gave me some paua, that Brent and Glen caught the other day already minced and frozen. I put 3 packs in our freezer and left one out for our dinner tonight.
After saying good bye to everyone I headed for Carterton to empty the tanks, fill up with water, get diesel and supplies from the supermarket. Stopped at the top of the hill and pulled over to take a photo looking down across to Flat Point in the distance.
Flat Point from the access road
Brent messaged me there to say that he had pulled into a beach as the southerly wind came up making paddling difficult. He said to hang around in Carterton so I had internet until he messaged back with what he was going to do! Around half hour later he messaged to say that he was going onto Te Awaiti but wasn’t sure if there was a good landing spot there. He said that he might try and go to Stony Bay, but to call him on the VHF along the coast to when I get there!
The road was great until I got to the gravel road, it was awful like a continuous judder bar all along the road! Poor van, everything was rattling and banging driving me mad! Finally got to the turn off at Tora towards Te Awaiti. Driving along the coastal road I saw Brent close to the shore so called him on the VHF. He said that he was going to come into this bay! It turns out this was called Sandy Bay!
Entering Sandy Bay
I had to park in the parking area outside the closed gate, when I got to him he was already talking to this young guy. He was intrigued as he has never seen a kayak land on the beach here before!
Lots of people interested in how Brent was going to get the kayak up on the roof of the van. Anyway once we packed up, washed down the kayak we set off to camp the night at Te Awaiti reserve camp.
I cooked paua fritters for tea, they were so good! Cooked them just like Karen and Lance said too, delicious guys thanks!
Early to bed tonight, Brent crashed by 7.30pm.
Paua Fritters:1/2 cup flour, 1 egg and enough milk to mix until a nice sticky consistency not to running add mince paua and one finely chopped onion, salt and pepper to season. Heat oil in a frying pan and cook paua fritters. Simple and yummy!
2 January 2020
Had a sleep in this morning, even Brent did for a change! Brent made a cooked breakfast before we left Te Awaiti beach camp, looks like most people heading home today!
Te Awaiti camp beside the Oterei RiverTe Awaiti camp
We left Te Awaiti at 9.50am, we drove along to Tora beach to check it out and then back down the judder bar gravel road onto Martinborough.
Brent wanted to drive onto Ngawi and check out the possible landing spots. We were going to stay the night there and check into a camp ground as we need to power up the camper van. It appears that the house battery isn’t charging as it should! Anyway no room, so we headed north! Contacted Eketahuna Camping Ground and they had plenty of power sites tonight, so decided to stay the night there. What a really nice campground, friendly people running it! You just park up, plug into power and they come around introduce themselves and collect your payment $10 per person per night and the showers are free!!!
Driving south out of New Plymouth for the first time since this adventure began is some kind of progress milestone I guess. Nice change of scenery anyway. This is another 4 day window where the weather seems acceptable; and I’m keen to retain some early season paddle fitness.
Distance 43.5km Time 6.63hrs Average Speed 6.6km/hr
Arrived at Waimarama from Wanganui having stayed there the night. A lot quieter at Waimarama beach today. The tide was out offering an easy surf entry against the protective rocky outcrop projecting off the beach. On the water just before 1100hrs. There was a light (5kt) northerly however the forecast was for anything from the NW to SW so not at all sure what we would get through the day; or how far we would get.
Agreed with Shaz that I would come in at Kairakau just 2.5 hours away and reassess our destination based on conditions.
Te Wainohu Point – just out of Waimarama. Taupata headland in the distance.Red Island on the way towards Taupata.
Stayed close to shore even through the light northerly remained with me all the way to Kairakau. Its much more interesting weaving through rocks and reefs.
The bluffs of TaupataThrough the reefs off Taupata. Kairakau ahead under the dark patch (trees) in the distance
Arrived at Kairakau on schedule and Shaz directed me to land right in front of the camper. An easy landing but I left my bloody camelbak hydration tube under my skirt again, and didn’t realise until I was exiting Secala. Nevermind!
Kairakau for coffee with Shaz. Camper parked on the right
The conditions remained good, so after a cuppa and a snack, decided to go on to Pourerere at least, only 3 hours away. Maybe Aramoana, another hour further on. Once we got going the wind swung offshore (NW). Had a great time paddling through and over reefs, having to keep a keen eye out for shoals that occasionally broke the surface in the low swell. Awesome paddling area.
Having settled into a rhythm now towards Paoanui Point, my attention was diverted towards movement on the surface of the water about 100m to my left. Almost certainly a bird of some sort, I casually focussed in on the area. My heart skipped a beat when a huge fin was scything through the water at speed heading north. Instantly realised that it was way too big to be a shark fin and, as it went past my beam, was clearly a killer whale (orca). Impressive sight seeing a huge fin flying through the water. Would have been keen for a closer look but no chance at the speed it was travelling. Was unusual, I thought, that this appeared to be a solo orca.
About 30 minutes later I saw another about 200m to my right, close in to the shore this time, also heading in a northerly direction. Presumably a second orca. Had my eyes peeled ahead now for an opportunity to possibly intercept one heading my way. Alas, didn’t see any more.
Into the afternoon now, the offshore NW developed enough to cause good gusts through valleys and ravines and to swing SW around headlands. Quite a different unsettling feeling with the varying nature of the winds on this section of coast. Without local knowledge, a heavy dose of caution is required I think.
Approaching Pourerere. Aramoana just around the corner
Once at Pourerere it was an easy decision to keep going to Aramoana, only 1 hour away. Called up Shaz by VHF to confirm my intentions. Once around Tuingara Point, with Aramoana in sight, a moderate SW headwind set in for the last 30 minutes or so reducing my speed down to 2km/hr. My workout for the day. The landing was as smooth as a lake under the protection of the reef that extends out from the southern end of the beach.
Arriving at Aramoana. Shaz guiding me in.Access to beach and Te Angiangi Reef. Marine reserve on the right.Enjoying the eveningAramoana freedom camping park
While we were there Eugene and his brother went out paua diving on the reef. Part of the reef is available for shellfish gathering while the rest falls within the Angiangi Marine Reserve. Aluminium poles are bolted to the reef marking the Reserve boundary. Upon their return they gave us 3 nice big paua. Much appreciated. Generally found the locals in these parts very friendly and keen to stop for a chat. Mentioned to Eugene about the orca, and he said it was common for them to be seen traveling north up this coast as far as Napier. This was a little late in the orca “season” apparently, as they are usually seen around September/October.
4 December 2019
Shaz …………..Packed up and ready to go! Brent picked me up from my photography class at the Meeting of the Waters, just outside New Plymouth, at 6.30pm and we headed for Whanganui for the night. Sarah had made dinner tonight, I had mine takeaway style eating in the van while Brent drove. Arrived in Whanganui around 8.40pm and parked up at the Springvale Park carpark along with other motorhomes.
5 December 2019
Up bright and early this morning with our coffee to go (Brent made a Bialetti) and on the road by 6am heading for Waimarama.
I drove and the only stop on the way was in Dargarville so Brent could get muesli ready to eat and we continued on!
Arrived at Waimarama around 10am, Brent unpacked his gear, kayak etc and I got some snack food ready for him (cheese & crackers, banana and Christmas cake). Before you knew it he was on the water and heading for Kairakau Beach 2.5hrs away.
Leaving Waimarama
After cleaning up, I headed for Kairakau Beach where I would contact him by VHF to see if he was going to continue as the wind was up a little! It was a beautiful sunny day 25 degrees outside now, so a little warm now! I arrived at Kairakau beach about 12.15pm, wasn’t expecting Brent for another hour yet. Made myself coffee, crackers with tomato, got out my chair and sat in the sun. Not long before it was too hot so put out the awning. Took a few photos on the camera, practicing techniques that I have been learning! Some good and some not so good, oh well!
Kairakau Beach
Saw Brent in the distance and made contact on VHF, he is doing well but has decided to come in for cup of tea and cake! (This cake isn’t going to last long) Time is around 1pm!
Kairakau Beach with Hinemahanga Rocks behindArriving Kairakau for lunch
He was back on the water by 1.25pm, quick turn around!
Relaunching Kairakau (high tide)
Before leaving I took few more photos on the camera, some surfers walking back along the beach, flowers and this mosaic seat built in 2012 by Barbara Rush and moved to its current location in 2016.
Surfers at Kairakau. Taupata cliffs behind
Going onto Pourerere beach where he will make contact with me and let me know if he is going to go onto Aramoana for not. I took the long route to Pourerere as not too sure of the road from Kairakau to Pourerere and besides I need to get diesel. The closest place was Waipawa, filled up with diesel and went to the 4 Square and brought some sunblock. Then headed for Pourerere, heard from Brent on VHF around 4.30pm he is going to go onto Aramoana. Told him that apparently you need a permit to camp at Aramoana, but said that I would drive there and see! It was only a short drive to Aramoana on a gravel road, but it wasn’t to bad really! I drove down by the beach to where the motorhomes could stay overnight, there was no one there. I packed up and went for a walk down by the beach and a local man came along so I explain him about what Brent was doing and we never know where might be on a given day! He said ‘Nah mate it’s all good, so long as you are self contained all good’. Awesome, thank god!
Walked back to the van to get my camera, and 2 guys had arrived in the car park and were putting on their wet suits. They were going to get paua. They came from Hastings, just 40 minute drive.
While I was waiting to see Brent come around the point, a local farmer on his 4 wheeler came by and stopped for a chat! Explained what Brent was doing and he said ‘Why? What made him decide to do that’ and you know what I couldn’t really tell him except he just did! Funny, I must ask him as a lot of people ask me the same question.
Brent landed on the beach around 6pm dragged the kayak up the beach to where the van was parked.
Arriving Aramoana
Later on one of the 2 guys came back with his 10 paua, but the other guy was still out there! Brent was talking to Eugene for a while before his brother turned with his catch. He came over and gave us 3 paua, they are a lot bigger than we get in the Naki
06 December, 2019
Aramoana to Porangahau
Distance 24.5km Time 3.7hrs Average Speed 6.6km/hr
A bit of a struggle getting up this morning. Off the beach by 0600 though, after an easy launch. There is no internet coverage here so no weather update this morning. VHF Nowcasting is out of range too. Yesterdays forecast for the area was for more of the same, with a dominant NW flow over the lower North Island.
Ready to launch at Aramoana
Just around the point from Aramoana is the little settlement of Blackhead that is neatly tucked in behind a small beach bordered closely by reefs north and south. Blackhead is located 7km north of Blackhead Point. Had a gentle but building NW offshore since my departure from Aramoana 30 minutes earlier.
Passing Blackhead
As I approached Blackhead, gentle gusts from the south made themselves known which, I have found, is not unusual for this coast and no real cause for concern. Over the next hour, nearing Blackhead Point the gusts intensified and filled out to resemble a “wall” of white caps heading towards me. Concerned but undeterred, I ground it out, barely making headway in the chop, when I saw the wind intensifying even further up ahead. It was an effort keeping control of the paddle now. About 2km short of Blackhead Point I decided that finding shelter was the prudent thing to do and wait the southerly out. Completing a 180 turn, careful not to get caught out swinging broadside to the wind, started back-tracking towards Blackhead. With a hefty tailwind now I flew along the surface. Decided to return to Aramoana as it would probably be quicker than having Shaz weave her way by gravel roads to Blackhead. Sent Shaz an inReach message with my plans, knowing that she would not receive them until she got somewhere with internet reception. Arrived back at Aramoana having spent 2.8 hours paddling 15.4km for no net gain. No worries, safety is key. And we’re in no hurry.
Nothing for it but to wait for Shaz to return to Aramoana to pick me up. Wanted to get a weather forecast update as the southerlies I encountered had a permanent feel about them.
Shaz returned to Aramoana about an hour later having received my messages when she had got to Waipawa. Loaded up Secala and back to Waipawa we went to get a weather update.
Turns out the forecast hadn’t really changed much although one forecast predicted southerlies in this area. So back to Aramoana we went to wait out the southerlies. Upon return the southerlies seemed to have disappeared! Relaunched and enjoyed a much easier run past Blackhead Point into Pourangahau Bay. Blackhead Point has a reef that kept me wide before I could safely change course to cross the bay towards Pourangahau. The late start means my destination today is Pourangahau at the southern end of the 14km Pourangahau Beach.
From Blackhead Point I enjoyed a light NE tailwind until a couple of kilometres out of Pourangahau when a howling SW offshore hit me in the face. Dramatic wind shifts, influenced by the topography; is the norm in these parts, it seems. Somehow it’s easier, and in a way welcomed, to have a workout with the finish line in sight. Shaz directed me ashore and within a couple of hundred meters of the beach the wind completely died away.
Arriving at Porangahau
Landed cleanly on the beach and parked Secala in the sand dunes for the night. Enjoyed a great paua dinner cooked on the Weber. Thanks Eugene.
Paua for tea
Shaz ………….. Brent up early again, just after 5am! Had breakfast and setting up ready to go by 5.34am.
Grabbed photo and said goodbye from the camper van and he headed off for the beach. Beautiful sunrise this morning, looks amazing through the pine trees. Went outside in my nightie (no one else around) to get some photos.
Best time of day to launch!
Brent set off for Herbertville around 5.40am, I will meet him there for a cuppa! Will stay here until about 8am then head off. No internet; 1 bar every now and then, not much until you are almost in Waipawa. Decided to get a coffee there not much open so got one at BP.
Lots of messages have come through on my phone, there were 2 from Brent’s inReach. He is returning to Aramoana ……… there must be something wrong! Tried to ring him but no reply so I answered him via email on his inReach. I said that I was on my way back but would be about 45 minutes. As expected it took 45 minutes and he was lying down on the grass when I pulled up and all his gear was unpacked ready to go! He said that when he got around the point near Blackhead there was a head wind which made it very hard work.
Anyway we packed everything away, kayak back onto the camper and set off to get some internet coverage so Brent could get a weather report. I said that we might have to go back to Waipawa to get good coverage, which we did!
Got a crap coffee at cafe, Brent couldn’t even drink his so made his own in the Bialetti! The weather report said that the conditions were improving this afternoon, so we set off for the 45 minute trip back to Aramoana. Brent had a quick bite to eat, dressed and unloaded everything ready for ‘take 2’ for today!
Take 2 from Aramoana
He was back on the water by 1pm, I said that I’d wait here for a hour or two before heading off. He said that he would send me a email by inReach with standard message ‘I’m checking in; everything is okay’ if he was continuing on this time. I set off around 2.15pm trying to get internet along the way to check for updates, but only getting 1 bar most of the way. It just wouldn’t download any information. Getting close to Waipawa again I got 3 bars and so I checked the inReach App, he was now past where he got earlier so I guess he’s OK! Thank goodness for that, I really didn’t want to drive back to Aramoana. In Waipawa I got his message everything OK, so I continued to Porangahau Beach where we will camp for the night.
Brent landed safely on Porangahau beach at 4.49pm, yeah!
Pourangahau BeachGlad to have arrived. Blackhead Point in the background.
Paua for tea tonight thanks to Eugene and his brother, Brent had it thinly sliced with onions and garlic cooked in butter and I made a paua fritter with finely chopped paua. There was nothing black looking about this paua fritter, it was a white one!
07 December, 2019
Pourangahau to Akitio
Distance 48.2km Time 7.4hrs Average Speed 6.5km/hr
Sunrise leaving Porangahau
An earlier dawn start this morning before anyone in the camp has roused. Getting into my normal daily pattern now.
My initial destination today is Herbertville, via Cape Turnagain, for an early lunch and reassess the day. Ultimately Akitio would be a good target for the day if conditions allowed. But first, Cape Turnagain. Rounding this Cape is 3 hours away! With the previous days experience in mind, I told Shaz that my emergency exit will be Whangaehu that lies about half way between Pourangahau and Cape Turnagain.
The Pourangahau surf is small but still managed to cop a couple over the bow for a full drench “wake up call”. Beyond the small shore break the sea was calm and there was a solid covering of high cirrus cloud. A NW is forecast again so intend to stay close to shore.
Hugging the coast
Consciously kept moving this morning as I wanted to get past the Cape in the best possible conditions. Kept a keen eye on sky over my right shoulder and frequently scanned the sea surface all around. Nothing to worry about as I passed Whangaehu, but definitely on higher alert than normal. Consciously made note of all the escape landing opportunities along the way.
Approaching Whangaehu. White Cliffs and Cape Turnagain in the far distanceWhangaehu
Rounded White Cliffs Point to an amazing sight with high continuous limestone cliffs all the way to Cape Turnagain about 4.5km away. What a magnificent “ monster “ of a headland. I was intimidated and awestruck at the same time. Stopped often for photos.
Approaching White CliffsWhite Cliffs – 4.5km of them to Cape Turnagain
Torn between wanting to linger in these spectacular surroundings and the demand to put this very exposed shoreline behind me. I was so close to the shore that the real Cape eventually arrived after three “false alarms”.
Nearing the Cape with boat anchored off.Cape Turnagain finally!!
Very happy to turn the corner towards Herbetville in perfect conditions. Another memorable, stunning headland safely negotiated and every moment enjoyed.
Rounding the Cape towards Herbertville
A light offshore NW headwind ruffled the hitherto smooth sea, during the crossing to Herbertville. A boat came alongside for a chat during his cray pot clearing. He was interested in where I was heading and said there were very few kayakers that came to these parts. Not surprised! (No offer of a crayfish though …….)
As I closed in on Herbertville I saw Shaz driving the shoreline trying to find the best place for me to land. Shaz waved me in to the steep “dumping” golden sand beach and walked 100m over the beach to where Shaz was parked.
Herbertville Beach for early lunchShaz parked in the distance
Still hoping to get to Akitio today as there is plenty of time left in the day. Within minutes of landing though, a stiff southerly announced itself that got stronger as we sat for a sandwich. Won’t be launching in that! However, like yesterday, there is hope that the southerly will “blow out” within a couple of hours. Mighty relieved this hadn’t arrived while I was heading round the Cape! There’s nowhere to hide around there. While we watched, the wind veered to more of an offshore NW. It’s about a 3 hour paddle to Akitio with no emergency exits that have vehicle access. After looking and procrastinating; decided to launch and stay very close to the shore.
Typical of what we had experienced so far; the winds frequently changed along the way from a gusty offshore NW, to SW headwinds, then an occasional lighter NE. There was no relaxing in these conditions, especially watchful of the strong NW gusts hurtling down valleys to ensure I didn’t get caught unguarded. A solid lean into these concerted gusts was required to remain stable. Occasionally I had to skirt wide around the outside of reefs before plugging my way back to shore. Once again Shaz guided me into the Akitio shore where this trip would end. Plenty of learnings this trip and some of the most stunning paddled of this adventure.
Arriving at Akitio
Shaz ………… OMG, Brent was up at 4.20am, next thing he’s telling me that the gas bottle has ran out so has to change it. Really … its 4.36am! Opening the back door of the van to access the gas bottles right under the bed where I’m trying to sleep, yeah right! Just quietly I’m glad it happened while he was here! Following his breakfast he gave me a good bye kiss and set off! His inReach email came in at 5.36am, so he’s off shore then. He tried to contact me on the VHF, which was miraculously turned on! So got up and answer ‘come in Secala, Shaz Dog here’, however only got muffled call back couldn’t understand any of it! So back to bed for me and try to get some sleep as I didn’t have a good night, bloody cramp twice. Drank plenty of water! Just got comfortable when Daniel messaged from France asking if he’ll get to Castle Point today! Told him that I’m not sure about that as the wind is supposed to be getting up. Fell asleep for a little while then up, showered and had breakfast by 7.40am.
Brent said its a 4 hours paddle to Herbertville, and its a 37 minute drive for me! On the way I thought that I’d stop at the Porangahau shop and see if they had any banana’s. They didn’t, but the lady in the shop said the lady across the road selling fruit and vegetables from her truck may do and she even has eftpos. Sure enough she had some, good day! On the drive from Porangahau to Herbertville you drive past the Longest place name in New Zealand, 85 letters long ‘Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauotamateatruripukakapikimaungahoronukupokaiwhenuakitanatahu’
I continued on to Herbertville arriving a 10am, parked up and checked to see if I could see Brent. There he was in the distance, called him up on the VHF. He landed on the beach at 10.15am, there was a bit of distance between the beach where he landed and where the van was parked.
I put the coffee pot on and waited for Brent to walk up the beach across the creek and up to the van. While he was having his coffee and sandwich the wind picked up, a lot!
This could be a waiting game like yesterday!
Time to relax for a little while and see what happens, the weather report didn’t say anything about the wind! Around 12.30pm conditions seemed to have improve, wind had changed direction. Brent decided to go for it and get to Akitio. He was on the water by 12.44pm. It would be a 3 hour paddle to Akitio.
I drove onto Akitio, 1 hour 15 minute drive on a good road. Drove through Wimbledon, not a tennis court in sight but there was a tavern by the bridge.
On arrival at Akitio the wind had picked up a lot, hope Brent is going OK! After a while I could see him in the distance, it looked like a slow slog for him. I got the camera out again and tried my hand at some photos.
Akitio BeachArriving at Akitio. Cape Turnagain in the far distance.
Brent landed on the Akitio beach near the boat ramp around 3.39pm.
We decided to call it quits now, as the weather is getting much worse. So we pack up and head towards home.
Decided to stay the night at Ferry Reserve near Woodville, what a beautiful spot so peaceful and quiet! Brent even decided to go for a swim in the river.
We are now within easier driving distance from home to our launch spot, making a long weekend trip worthwhile. The forecast conditions in Hawke’s Bay look good enough to get through, and beyond, their dumping beaches. Good vehicle access to exit points also means I can leave all my solo gear at home.
Distance 55.6km Time 8h 50m Speed 6.3km/hrReady to depart Whakamahi Beach (Wairoa). A gentle offshore wind.
Arrived at Whakamahi beach feeling pretty jaded after the overnight road trip from home. Wanted to get an early enough launch today to at least get to Waipatiki Beach. Possibly Tangoio.
Clocked up over 2000km of the circumnavigation, on this leg to Tangoio. The first 1000km was done in 27 paddle days at an average of 6.13km/hr. The 2000km has taken 54 paddle days at 6.0km/hr.
Good to peek over the dunes to see the forecast low surf on arrival. On the water by 0900 while Shaz visited Wairoa and would then head off the Waipatiki Beach for our next rendezvous. Hugged the shoreline past Waihua and Mohaka, then cut a straight track towards Waipatiki beach that is recessed where the Rocky Range meets the coast. A light beam on SE breeze developed along the way. Approaching the golden sands of Waipatiki Beach (7.5 hours later), Shaz contacted me by VHF and suggested I come in for coffee. At this stage I was keen to finish the day and get to Tangoio Beach, only an hours paddle away. Feeling paddle weary now, I took the easy option of a gel pack to give me a short term boost to the end.
Waipatiki Beach 7.5hrs after launch from WairoaRounding Flat Rock to Tangoio
Cut close around Flat Rock to a sheltered Bay where a yacht was anchored; and landed right in front of Shaz parked in a great spot just above the beach. Glad to enjoy a beer after a solid day.
Flat RockArrived at Tangoio Beach. Flat Rock behind.
A shorter day to Te Awanga is planned tomorrow but will get an early start anyway.
21 November 2019
Shaza……Left New Plymouth this afternoon at 4pm, heading towards Napier. We drove as far as Tarawera Tavern and campsite along the Taupo – Napier highway and stayed the night arriving at 9pm.
22 November 2019
Up early and drove to Wairoa, down Whakamahi Road to where Brent finished last time arriving about 8.30am. Brent wants to be on the water by 9am, as its going to be a long day! All sorted and on the water by 8.50am.
Whakamahi BeachEasy launch today!
After cleaning up the van from breakfast I drove into Wairoa to the Eastend Cafe for a coffee and muffin. Caught up on some emails and banking before going to the NZMCA dump station to top up the fresh water. Upon arriving there was someone else emptying the SOG (poo) tank and had parked their car in front of the potable drinking water tap. So I waited very patiently until she finished emptying her poo tank and then move. OMG, the dirty bitch then took her poo tank from the waste area that had a flushing tap, to the potable drinking water tap and put the poo tank spout up to this tap and flushed the tank! “WTF, dirty bitch”, I said it to myself but it came out louder than I meant it to and she heard me as I had the window open. She promptly gave me the fingers to which I drove off as there was no way I was getting my fresh water from that tap!
Filled up with diesel, then to the supermarket for some beer for Brent!
From Wairoa I headed for Waipatiki Beach where Brent will make contact via VHF if he’s had enough and wants to come in. Decided not to take the gravel road and carried on towards Napier. Approaching Napier I decided to go into Napier to the Warehouse and get somethings for tomorrow as it’s Brent’s birthday, its only 20 minutes further down the road. Got what I wanted and then headed back towards the turnoff to Waipatiki Beach. A really nice spot, a few families down at the beach after school and some teenagers having a few sneaky drinks along the beach. One dad taking his 3 girls out on a canoe, having a great time!
Made myself a coffee and waited for Brent to come by and see what he was going to do! Made contact with him via VHF at 4.40pm as he came into sight, he was happy to carry on Tangoio beach! No freedom camping places here at Waipatiki beach either, camp ground was $36 per night!
I drove onto Tangoio and set up came for the night, nice spot right on the sea edge with amazing views down to Napier. Brent landed on the beach around 5.50pm.
Tangoio BeachTangoio Beach looking towards Napier
Nice evening and very peaceful.
23 November, 2019
Tangoio to Te Awanga
Distance 34.3km Time 6.1hrs Speed 5.6km/hr
Parking up for the night wherever you land is one of the great benefits of the camper van; allowing also for the earliest launch the next day. And so I did today.
Launch from Tangoio
On the water at sunrise while Shaz waves me off from the door of the camper.
Looking back after launch. Camper parked above Tangoio beach.
Sun up is the best time to be on the water. It’s quieter ………. and generally calmer ……….. and a chance to get the most out of the day. Only targeting Te Awanga today, 6 hours away, as a moderate southerly is forecast around Cape Kidnappers this afternoon.
Approaching Napier port
Enjoyed a flat crossing to Napier harbour then hugged the foreshore until Shaz spotted me from Marine Parade and suggested I come ashore for a coffee.
Coming in for coffee on the Napier foreshoreLooking north along Napier foreshore
Continued a very pleasant paddle close to the shoreline in easy conditions. Came within shouting distance of the many fishermen off the Clive and Tukituki River mouths. As I closed within a kilometre or so of Te Awanga a 15-18kt southerly headwind suddenly kicked in with its associated steep chop. Shaz waved me in to another great spot she had found for the camper; right on the beach. Enjoyed a lazy afternoon and evening as the southerly died away. Set myself up for another early launch towards Cape Kidnappers tomorrow. Really looking forward to that.
Relaxing at the end of the day at Te Awanga. Roast lamb on the BBQ. Cape Kidnappers in the distance.
Happy Birthday Brent!
Shaza…….Brent up early this morning, had his breakfast and on the water by 5.49pm. Beautiful morning, gorgeous sunrise!
Tangoio Beach launch
Took my time having breakfast and packing up before heading off to Napier and meeting Brent for coffee around 9am along Marine Parade somewhere.
Found a park on Marine Parade near a really nice little cafe called ‘The Six Sisters’. Sat out on the deck outside over looking the beach across the road. One of the nicest coffee’s I’ve had in ages, well done guys.
As it’s Brents birthday today I brought him a nice Spinach & Feta scone and ginger slice to have with his coffee further down the beach.
I walked across the road to see if I could see him and there he was just off the shore from where I was, ran back to the camper to get VHF and called him. He paddled along to where I was and came into shore at 9.15am.
Coming in for coffee
Then I went and brought him a coffee from The Six Sisters which he enjoyed with his treats!
He was back on the water by 9.45am, and I headed for Hastings to do a little Christmas shopping at Kmart. Didn’t last long, so many people so many kids the place was packed, not at all enjoyable! I guess it’s Saturday and everyone had the same idea, oh well never mind! I then headed for Clifton Reserve beach, where I will meet Brent and we will stay the night! I found a spot right on the sea edge again, between other camper vans/motorhomes, plenty of people here for tonight. Brent came ashore at 12.45pm, a shorter day today! The waves were breaking onto the beach, which made it a little bit interesting! Watching him come in, he tried for a quick exit but forgot to remove his camelbak drinking tube from under his spray skirt. So that he didn’t rip the tube, he tried to stay with the kayak to remove it. Entertainment for everyone!
Landing at Te AwangaRealised about now that he was still attached by his camelbak tube
He dragged his kayak up the pebble beach close to the camper and we had some lunch and relaxed for the rest of the afternoon. The sunshine was nice but the wind was a little annoying, people were fishing with torpedo longlines and one fella had a longline attached to a raft with a sail. Well the wind just blew it over the top of surfcasters! Swimmers in the dumping surf and a drone added to the entertainment.
Different people came and talked to Brent about his kayak and had he been fishing, and are really surprised when he tells them what he is actually doing!
As it was Brent’s birthday I cooked roast lamb on the BBQ with some roasties, followed by cherries, strawberries, yoghurt and chocolate cover Russian fudge.
Yum ……..
24 November, 2019
Te Awanga to Waimarama
Distance 36.0km Time 5.6hrs Speed 6.4km/hr
Another early start to get the best of the day around Cape Kidnappers and to end the day at Waimarama as early as possible so we could get on the road back home. It’s about 6 hours to Waimarama so should be there well before lunchtime.
The sunrise this morning was clearly tainted by the smoke from the recent Aussie bush fires.
Sunrise over Cape Kidnappers shrouded with Aussie smoke
Have been really looking forward to the twin highlights of Black Reef and Cape Kidnappers today. Love the anticipation of negotiating new and potentially challenging territory. Looks like I will have calm conditions to enjoy this area.
Although it was calm, I still battened down against the unexpected. Last night a local kayaker warned me of the “hydraulics” in the area. Whatever that meant!
Approaching Black Reef. Gannet colony below the cliffs (right)My gap through Black Reef. Cape Kidnappers beyond.
Cutting through Black Reef
Could have hung out around Black Reef all day! Beautiful clear water, plenty of areas to explore. The gannet colony is at the base of the cliffs where Black Reef breaks out from the shore. This is not a particularly big colony unless it extended up the cliffs beyond my view. There is an easy beach just on the other side of Black Reef that would make a great overnighter one day.
Way to quickly the pressure came on the continue progress towards Waimarama. Focussed now on the gap between Cape Kidnappers and its prominent offshore pinnacle. From a distance, even in these calm conditions, I could see breakers in the gap. It was calm enough to have a close look though.
Heading for the gap at Cape Kidnappers
Found that, despite there being some turbulence and surge through the gap, it was an easy enough transit in the conditions.
Rounding Cape Kidnappers
Found another gannet colony just on the other side of the Cape that I had a closer look at. A gentle NE tailwind eased in as I turned the corner and set a steady pace along Ocean Beach towards conspicuous Bare Island.
Ocean Beach
So far, down this part of the Hawke’s Bay/Wairarapa long golden sand beaches are punctuated by limestone cliffy points. For now, at least, we seem to be clear of the steeper dumping shoreline.
Shaz contacted me by VHF as I approached Waimarama and guided me into the spot where boats were being launched straight off the beach, using a rocky outcrop for a bit of protection. Thankfully back to a more “normal” surf entry.
Coming through the surf at WaimaramaBoat launching in lee of rocks. Bare Island behind.View north from WaimaramaTractor and boat trailer park. Top of camper parked behind.View of Waimarama and Bare Island
Shaz ………… Brent up really early this morning to get a few hours paddling in as we are going home today. He was up around 4.30am, had his breakfast dressed and ready to go! He was on the water by 5.20am!
I got up to see him leave and took a few photos of him going, another beautiful morning and the wind had dropped!
He saw me standing at the door of the camper and gave me the usual wave with his paddle!
I went back to bed, to try and get some sleep only for my world to start rocking at 5.30am, EARTHQUAKE! Found out later it was a 5.3 earthquake, so a good shake! Up and ready by 6.30am enjoyed my coffee and breakfast ……. time to kill! When I was outside the neighbour asked what time he left and when I told him he said he wasn’t surprised! He said that Brent seemed very passionate about what he was doing and sure to meet his end goal. He told me about the Hastings Farmer market on this morning and it has been going for years, so I thought I’d go for a look! It didn’t open until 8.30am, so stopped on the way an got a coffee at Brown Dog Espresso just down the road from the camp. Not bad, had better! Arrived at the market, heaps of people there already getting there fruit and vege. I got some cheese, avocados, strawberries and a good look around before leaving for my drive to Waimamara. Only stopping at Havelock North to empty my waste tanks and then the 30 minute drive to Waimamara. I parked up in a little park area right next to the beach, lots of boats out fishing today. All the tractors and trailers parked along the beach.
Boat trailers lined up on the beach at Waimarama
Made contact with Brent by VHF as I could see him in the distance, he said that he was about another 10 minutes away. I told him where to come in and he said he would follow where the boats are going. As he got closer I moved the camper as I was on the wrong side of the bridge to get to him. He landed on the beach at 11.09am without any problems.
After having some lunch and then packing everything up we started the long journey home to the Naki!
This planned week away marks the start of this summers campaign. It’s always a fickle time of year weather wise so quite unsure where we will end up. Looking forward to our first trip away in our camper van that will make life much easier for Shaz and all sorts of flexibility for us in remote areas.
On this trip there are long stretches of coastline that have no vehicle access so have prepared to go solo, if necessary, as a contingency against the weather.
THIS TRIP: Sponge Bay, Gisborne to Wairoa – 4 paddle days Overall Distance 118.1km Time 19.3hrs Average Speed 6.1km/hr
26 October, 2019
Sponge Bay to Mahanga
Distance 43.9km Time 7.4hrs Speed 5.9km/hr
Arrived at Sponge Bay from New Plymouth yesterday after visiting Jan & Vic in Whakatane. Went straight down to check the surf out to find that the access to the beach was barricaded due to erosion undermining of the wooden steps.
Sponge Bay looking towards Tuaheni Point. Access to beach blocked off.
Checking out a gully at the other end of the beach.
The SW’ly was still pumping but forecast to decline overnight. I checked out the far end of the Bay and found good enough access down a gully where I could drag Secala to the beach.
Not in a hurry to launch early the next morning as the full tide would be high on the steeper, rocky, top end of the beach, and; the SW’ly was forecast to linger through the morning.
Got to Sponge Bay on a gloomy morning amongst surfers coming and going. Loaded Secala for a possible overnighter somewhere even though it was only about a 6.5hr paddle to Mahanga. Have lined up Whareongaonga Bay as a possible exit point if necessary. Beyond the breakers there was no sign of the SW but forecasts differed on what to expect today.
Dragged Secala down the bank and over the logs.
Guaranteed a wet exit through the surf today.
This will be a wet exit!
Launched and patiently waited to make my dash through the outer break, paddle jacket firmly done up.
Headed directly across a calm Poverty Bay towards Young Nicks Head to maintain close contact with the shore. A very light NW set in as the morning cloud cleared. A beautiful 2 hour crossing of Poverty Bay before, inexplicably got a crook gut. Then, to add to my discomfort, a 12kt SW headwind set in for a couple of hours.
Young Nicks Head conspicuous.
A passing pod of dolphins swung by and latched onto my bow for a few minutes, to lift the spirits. As I approached Happy Jacks Boat Harbour 4 hours later, I started to feel much better. Have been looking forward to exploring Happy Jacks. A flooding tide and low surf provided easy entry to this secluded cove and landed on the beach. Private property signs and fences clearly suggested visitors were unwelcome. After a stretch and a few photos I relaunched and rounded the point to land in low surf at Mahanga Beach. Had thoughts of continuing on to Whangawehi boat ramp (another 1.7hr paddle) if possible today, which would make tomorrows bigger Mahia Peninsula trip a little more manageable. Have learned though, that its not a good idea to push it on my first paddle back on the road, so decided to ease off the peddle today. Happily settled with a 7.5 hour paddle day under the belt.
Arriving at Mahanga
25th October, 2019
Shaza ……………. Stayed overnight at Dunham Reserve on Lake Whakamaru in the camper. Nice and quiet place to spend the night.
No rush to leave this morning. Took our time heading for Gisborne via Thornton to visit Jan and Vic! Jan has made some yummy savoury scones for morning tea. Brent filled up his water bottles ready for tomorrows kayak trip. Had a lovely catch up with them, checked out the wedding photos from France and then back on the road! Brent had arranged POP (Park over Place) for $5 a night on Sponge Road near where he will be launching from.
On arrival in Gisborne we went to check out Brent’s launch spot before going to POP.
OMG, things have changed a bit since April when we were last here! Erosion was not good, you could no longer go down the steps to the beach as they were hanging in mid air, the steps had been blocked off at both ends. The sea was really rough today, big waves and swells!
It was cold and windy outside, but Brent braved the conditions and walked down to the other end of the beach to see if he would be able to launch from there.
From here we went down to Wainui beach to see if it would be better to launch from there tomorrow. This would mean going back a little and repeat what he had already done, but oh well what can you do!
Drove back to Sponge Road and parked up at Roy & Betsy’s POP for the night and see what tomorrow brings!
Saturday 26 October
Up early and head to Sponge Bay to check out the weather conditions, and guess what – good to go!
Brent decided to launch from here, down the other end of beach! He loaded up the kayak for a possible overnight trip and headed for Mahanga Beach. The conditions were much better than yesterday, so with the right timing Brent made it out no problem!
Once I had tidied up in the van, I headed to the Warehouse to buy a holder for my phone so I could use google maps! Had a coffee at ‘The Wharf’ cafe sitting outside over looking the harbour in the sunshine!
Marina at Gisborne Harbour
Now with the camper van I had to find a dump station to empty out and replenish our drinking water supply, a quick stop at the supermarket before heading to Mahanga Beach. Driving down state highway 2, I turned off at Nuhaka towards Opoutama and then onto Mahanga Beach. No phone reception here at all, after a while I drove back to Opoutama to update my iReach to see where Brent was! Got a coffee from the Allied garage and headed back to Mahanga Beach which is a 10 minute drive. Sitting there drinking my coffee and talking to some people that were here for the weekend from Gisborne I noticed a kayak in the distance. Got the binoculars out and saw who I thought was Brent, red kayak with a orange and yellow flag on it! I was confused now because when I updated the inReach he was still up the coast a little, but then thought oh it only updates every half hour! I tried to reach him on the VHF, but he never responded which was odd as he was in line of sight! Ok so I thought he must have decided to go on to Mahia. So I drove back to Opoutama to get reception and ring him on mobile to see what he was up to! Upon checking the inReach again I realised that it can’t have been his kayak I saw, so I turned around and went back to Mahanga. Oops, when I got back Brent was already on the beach and not to happy with me as I wasn’t there to guide him in! Oh well he was alright! It was then that I noticed (remembered) his kayak doesn’t have an orange flag anymore as he took it off to put the French flag Alex gave him! We packed up and headed to Opoutama camp (free) to park up for the night. It is a nice camp with flushing toilets and was pretty busy as its a long weekend.
Opoutama camp
There was a buzz around the camp as people were getting ready for the All Blacks vs England game tonight. Thanks to Ben we were able to watch the game on TV in the camper van through ‘Spark’. Large group of people opposite up set up their tents and cook area and had a generator going for their TV ready for the game! This could be a long night! But it wasn’t, All Blacks lost!
27 October, 2019
Mahanga to Ahuriri Bay
Distance 41.8km Time 6.5hrs Speed 6.4km/hr
The turn of the tide through the channel between Ahuriri Point and Portland Island (at the bottom of Mahia Peninsula) is at 1100hrs today. This timing is ideal as it would take me about 6 hours to reach the channel from Mahanga and the flooding tide would not only assist me through the gap, but also compliment the wind direction. The forecast is for a slowly building NE’ly breeze today that would provide an assist and easier paddling down the east side of the Peninsula.
Secala is fully loaded again for a probable overnighter somewhere on the Peninsula if necessary. Not sure if I’m ready for the 10.5 hour paddle it would take to get all the way to Opoutama where Shaz is staying the night. Also, the forecast strengthening NE’ly could be handful up the west side of the Peninsula. There looks like a landing spot just around Ahuriri Point where I hope to stop and reassess the day.
Preparing to leave Mahanga ……… low surf!
On the water by about 0800 and a flat sea for the crossing to Table Cape where I would make an almost 90 degree turn to run SW all the way down the east side of the Mahia Peninsula. Approaching Table Cape it was difficult to tell if there was a gap between the land and exposed reefs extending a fair way out. All became clear as I got closer and able to make out people on 4 wheelers driving all the way along the reef.
Rounding Table Cape, Mahia Peninsula. Lots of people diving around the rocks.
Heading down Mahia Peninsula, Portland Island in the distance.
There are plenty of good beach landing options down this side of the Peninsula. A light NE’ly assist made paddling easy.
Approaching the channel between Ahuriri Point and Portland Island
As I approached the channel between Ahuriri Point and Portland Island my anticipation rose, as it always does, at any unfamiliar prominent headland. Signs of the Rocket Lab appeared above the Point. The wind was steadily increasing as it funnelled through the channel. It was 1400hrs and 3 hours into a flooding tide now and there appeared to be enough water to take the inside route between a prominent reef and the shore, just before Ahuriri Point. Outside the reef had deeper water but also stronger winds. There were several rocks still awash that needed to be dodged as I aimed for the tip of the reef extending off Ahuriri Point. Very watchful to safely round the rocks off the Point, I swung by very close to its end; through to the lee side, and relative calm of Ahuriri Bay.
The channel between Ahuriri Point and Portland Island (Rocket Lab just behind me)Ahuriri Point
There was a 4WD track down to the beach and a natural channel though the reef where boats can be launched. A tractor and trailer above the beach indicated that a boat was currently out there.
Came ashore through a gap in the reef just 100m along from the boat access. Made a coffee and climbed the steep 4WD track to get some photos. At the top of the track was the highly secure Rocket Lab facility. High fences and security cameras all round. Made every effort not to draw attention to myself and took no photos in that direction ….. just in case. What a beautiful location this area is. Felt like hanging out here for the day. Not sure when I would ever be back. Got good cell reception up the hill so rang Shaz to tell her my plans, even though it was only about 1500hrs. Set up camp in an ideal location to enjoy a sunset.
As I saw the boat returning, I went to help out with the boat recovery as it returned through the boat channel to the tractor. Heard that fishing is usually really good around here but only managed a groper and a few blue cod today.
Got reacquainted with all the gear setting up camp. Had plenty of the day left to enjoy the area, another good bialetti coffee and a great sunset. A top day all round.
Shaza ……………. Great night stay at Opoutama campsite, free. Early start today as Brent wanted to be on the water to make the most of the good weather. By the time he was fully packed and loaded for overnight trip staying somewhere on the Mahia Peninsula it was just after 8am.
Behind the dunes at Mahanga beach
He was on the water by 8.10am. Table Cape (far left) 2 hours paddle away.
I went back to the camp and had my breakfast before setting off to Mahia for a look and see if i could contact Brent. In Mahia they were having a Market Day down by the beach, so parked up and had a look around the market.
Mahia Beach
I grabbed a coffee before heading towards the Mahia East Boat ramp on the other side of the peninsula. I tried making contact with Brent on VHF on the way around, but wasn’t able to contact him. Beautiful drive around, people collecting shell fish all along the beach. I got to the boat ramp, still unable to contact Brent. Unsure about the road further on I decided to go back to Opoutama camp and set up for the day and night solo!
28 October, 2019
Ahuriri Bay to Nuhaka River (via Opoutama)
Distance 32.4km Time 5.4hrs Speed 6.0km/hr
After a good nights sleep, woke at my usual 0430. Decided I may as well get going and enjoy the sunrise on the water. It’s only about 4 hours to Opoutama where Shaz stayed another night. I should be there by smoko.
Launched when I had enough light to weave my way out through the rocks into Ahuriri Bay. Turned to face Portland Island and a beautiful sunrise developing through the gap between Portland Island and Ahuriri Point. Always a great start to the day.
The calm morning and low swell made the short cut between Black Reef and Hekerangi Point easy to negotiate. A couple of young seals were play fighting on top of the large rock at the end of the Point as I passed a few meters away.
Contrasting with the east side; the western shoreline of the Peninsula, all the way to Long Point is a continuous line of limestone cliffs. Remarkably though, a beautiful secluded beach (Ahimanawa), recessed into the cliffs, appeared just before Long Point. Good to know if I’m ever back this way looking for shelter or a camping option.
Swung around between Long Point and its associated outcrops watchful of the swirling surge around the rocks. Just around the Point, the beach access at Kinikini Point was clear with farm dwellings scattered on the hills above. Another landing option on this side of the Peninsula. Beyond Kinikini the limestone cliffs continued, in the main, all the way to Mahia Beach.
Could make a direct course for Opoutama now, about 2 hours away. The morning remained calm as I cut across the bay and landed at the shallow Opoutama beach at mid tide. A guy sidled up and asked if I was the bloke paddling around Table Cape yesterday. He was one of the many shellfish gatherers I had seen. He was very interested on our trip and helped carry Secala up the beach, surprised at how heavy the laden kayak was. He said there were mussels on the rocks just off Opoutama beach and that he would get some for us.
I wanted to make more progress today but had no idea where the next vehicle access points would be along this section of coast. Decided to spend a couple of hours on the road doing a coastal reccie towards Wairoa. The alternative was to “wing it” and stay loaded up for another impromptu overnighter somewhere.
Our drive uncovered only one exit point at the Nuhaka River bridge along the road to Wairoa. It is a 7 hour paddle to Wairoa which was a stretch now that it was well after lunch when we got back to Opoutama. Nuhaka river is only 1.5 hours along the coast and offered some enticing variation of negotiating a small river bar and river paddle. If the river bar looked too treacherous, I would have plenty of time to return to Opoutama, as a last resort.
An unloaded Secala glided easier through the water as I hugged the shore towards Nuhaka River. Shaz pulled up in the camper as the road reached the shoreline where I happened to be paddling. That hasn’t happened for a while!
Approaching Nuhaka River
The river bar looked manageable. Helmet on now, I aimed for the channel between the breakers over the bar and shoreline, hoping to time my run through the entrance. Staying very close to the shore and while just rounding the entrance, I got blindsided on the hip as a surge picked up the stern and flipped me over. In shallow water, I could easily stand and drag Secala up the beach and re-launch into the river.
A nice 2km paddle up the river past several whitebaiters to where Shaz was waiting at the bridge.
Railway bridge over Nuhaka River
Shaz meeting me at Nuhaka Bridge – 2km up the river.
At low tide now, the exit was a little muddy but an easy exit up the river bank to the camper. A 10 minute drive back down the road for another night at Opoutama camp. We were greeted with a bowl of beautifully cooked mussels from our motorhome neighbours. Amazing!
Shaza …………… Could have slept in this morning but wouldn’t you know it, because I could, I didn’t! Coffee for one this morning and as much as I hate to admit it Brent you were right to bring the small Bialettii coffee pot! Got an email from inReach saying Brent was out of surf zone at 5.51am, at least he can get an early start when he’s not waiting for me! I have put some pin wheel scones in the oven for Brent’s morning tea when he arrives!
Arriving at Opoutama. Long Point in the distance.
He landed on the beach around 10am, scones almost ready! Took them out of oven and went down to help him up with all his gear. A guy came down and helped him up the beach with his kayak as the tide was way out! I made him a cup of tea and we sat outside in the sun enjoying our morning tea.
Brent wanted to go for a drive to check out where he could come in next and that I could get to easily enough. If possible to get back on the water today! We drove around the coast road toward Nuhaka, but nowhere around there with beach access. Kept on driving towards Wairoa, went down by river mouth to check the possible entry into the river mouth! Heading back Brent wanted to check the river mouth area a Nuhaka, but couldn’t see that far. Time was ticking by and he wanted to make the best of the fine weather, as tomorrow didn’t sound to promising. Brent decided to leave and head for Nuhaka and come up the river to the bridge where I would pick him up. Kept an eye on inReach to see where he was which gave me an idea of when he should be near the river mouth. I got to Nuhaka River mouth around 4pm, Brent rang to say that he was crossing the bar into the river and wouldn’t be long. He finally came around the bend on the river near the bridge at 4.27pm landing on the river edge at 4.30pm.
It was very muddy there but he managed his way through and pulled his kayak up the river bank. So good having the outside shower connection on the camper makes washing the kayak down much easier. Drove back to Opoutama camp to stay the night, a lot quieter here tonight as everyone has gone home except for one other motorhome! Very nice people, the guy that helped Brent up with his kayak this morning and was very intrigued by what he was doing. He got some fresh mussels from the beach today and brought some over for us, that he had cooked up in some nice German white wine sauce! It looked very nice, all yours Brent as I don’t eat them. Such a nice thing to do!
29 October, 2019
Nuhaka River to Wairoa
Distance 32.8km Time 6.7hrs Speed 4.9km/hr
An early start for Shaz today as I wanted to make good progress around the Bay. Got to Nuhaka Bridge at 0700 and during set up a guy (Blane) waltzed up the river bank with his whitebait net and offered us his mornings catch. Amazing generosity. We got a cup of whitebait for dinner. Blane had spent time by the river before heading off to work. He pointed to the terrain way inland that was shaped like the profile of a face, which was where he worked. A great start to the day.
I launched into the river at high tide avoiding a muddy entry into Secala and hoped that the increased water over the bar would make this crossing a little easier too.
Heading down the Nuhaka River
Greeted the whitebaiters on the river bank again before successfully exiting through the river mouth and bar, hugging the west bank this time.
Nuhaka River entrance and bar
A westerly headwind was due today. My first destination is Wairoa, normally about a 5 hour paddle along 30km of monotonous brown gritty sand beach. Shaz would suss out the best exit point at Wairoa and guide me in when I get there. And also check out the vehicle access down to Waihua Beach where I hoped to push on to later today.
Being able to paddle within 100m of the beach is an enjoyable contrast to west coast beaches where a much larger margin is necessary to stay clear of the outer sand bars. I was to find out however, that there were dangers for the unwary. On a couple of occasions along this shore there were clearly reefs right in my path, about 100m off the dumping shore. These only presented themselves occasionally as the bigger waves, of a bigger sets, rolled through. These waves rose from a flat surface and within seconds curled up into a tumbling mass towards the shore. When they appeared ahead I marked a point on the very distant shore to ensure I skirted behind them in case I got caught unawares. Well, of course, on one occasion I let my guard slip and made no offshore compensation! Realising on my port side that I was directly in the pathway of a rapidly rising wall of water and having no time to react, I was lucky that this was the smaller of the two waves heading my way, as it rolled under me. The second wave was huge but I had more time to react breaking into a sprint and turning hard left to meet it. Sliced up the face at an angle and caught the top as it broke. Thankfully over the crest, and slamming back down to a horizontal and upright position. I was so unprepared I had my skirt unhitched and besides getting drenched, I got a couple of inches of water in the cockpit. Amateur!! Lost my drink bottle from under the bungees and my VHF got swept overboard. Luckily I always tether it off and it was in its waterproof cover. Mini crisis averted; and attention re-centered.
The forecast westerly breeze had set in, that slowed me down and extended my ETA at Wairoa by more than an hour and half. Got a few waves from surfcasters along the beach as I’m sure we were, at least for a while, a mutual distraction. Approaching the Wairoa River bar, Shaz got a visual on me and directed me to Whakamahi Beach on the west side of the river. Even though I gave the river bar a wide berth it was still a lumpy ride until clear of the influence of the river. Headed now into where Shaz was standing and landed easy enough in the low dumpers. Shaz had parked the camper in a nice spot just behind the beach dunes.
Arriving at Whakamahi Beach
Whakamahi Beach looking west towards Napier
Looking back towards Wairoa and Mahia Peninsula (in the distance)
Further progress today was called off as Shaz found that she could not get access down Waihua Beach road in our camper and the westerly was now enough to make the trip to the next access point at Mohaka River a bit too much of a challenge today. Decided to enjoy our little freedom camping spot for the rest of the day, finished off with a big beautiful whitebait fritter. Thanks Blane!
Our camp at Whakamahi Beach just west of Wairoa.
Shaza ……………. Up early this morning, to get and early start. Stopped at the lookout point on the top of hill that looks down to the Opoutama and Mahia bays where Brent took a couple of photos.
Opoutama lookout looking along the Opoutama beach towards Mahia BeachView towards Long Point and the top of Mahia Peninsula
Arrived at Nuhaka river by bridge and started to unpack all the gear when I noticed a white-baiter walking back up from the river. I asked him if he had had any luck, he replied “yeah enough for a feed”. He then asked ‘do you want them’, I said no thanks! He said ‘nah you can have them, I don’t mind, it’s enough for a feed.’ I said thank you that would be lovely! Such a kind thing to do, he goes to catch whitebaid before work in the mornings. Said that you’ll have to clean out all the weed and rubbish from them, didn’t mind doing that.
So once again Blane, thank you so much, they were delicious; its been such a long time since we have had any. Brent finished packing his kayak, and was on the river by 7.33am.
I set off for Wairoa, got diesel, went to dump station and got fresh drinking water. Then drove onto Waihua Beach to check it out as Brent wanted to come in there later. Got there and turned onto the road, saw a lady standing by the fence of her property. I stopped and asked about access to the beach, she said yes that is the way! I asked if it would be alright to go down in the camper van and she said not really only good for smaller vehicles for now! So turned around and headed back to Wairoa, drove down to the river mouth and made a coffee. I decided to go on further down the road along the coast where there was a freedom camping spot. I thought it looked like a good spot for Brent to come in rather than try the river mouth. Contacted him on the VHF, explained about Waihua Beach and made the suggestion, about coming in here a Wairoa. He was happy with that idea but I just needed to guide him into the beach. While waiting I did a little washing and made a make-shift clothes line, then cleaned the whitebait in the river water that we collected from the Nuhaka river. Now I can relax and read until he arrives!
My make shift clothes line, perfectly place drift wood!
Around 2pm I went for a walk down the beach and then made contact with Brent as I could see him coming in! I guided him into the beach, successfully as there was a bit of an under toe at 2.16pm.
I made a coffee and snacks (cheese, crackers, pickles, cut up orange and yummy strawberries) and sat at the tables provided along the beach. Took a selfie of us both on this beautiful sunny (a little windy) beach.
Brent pulled the kayak and gear up the beach to the camper van to dry stuff out! Spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing until it was time to cook those beautiful white-bait! I made one big fritter each, oh so good!
1 cup of whitebaitHome sweet home for the week
Weather forced Brent off the water so decided to spend the last few days of this trip doing a reccie down the Hawkes Bay and Wairarapa coast.
This nine day holiday break opportunity, incorporating Easter and ANZAC public holidays, has been targeted for many months and would be the last ‘push’ for this summer.
The key objective is the notorious East Cape and anything beyond that would be a bonus.
Due to the remoteness of this coast, I plan to go solo for up to six days that would double as a test of my equipment (and me) for solo trips that may lie ahead. The faster moving weather patterns at this time year suggested that a full range of conditions is guaranteed.
THIS TRIP: Te Kaha to Sponge Bay, Gisborne – 7 paddle days
Overall Distance 251.9km Time 43.15hrs Average Speed 5.8km/hr
Good Friday, 19 April 2019
Te Kaha to Waihau Bay
Distance 29.6km Time 4.4hrs Ave Speed 6.7km/hr
An early rise and on the road from New Plymouth by 0530hrs, aiming for a lunchtime launch at Te Kaha. Shaz doesn’t complain but is well over these lengthy repetitive road trips now. We are both looking forward to picking up our campervan next month.
Launched at low tide into a “duck pond”; targeting Waihau Bay boat ramp before sunset. I could carry out my pre-paddle routine and farewell to Shaz within a few meters of the beach.
Weaved through the rocks off Te Kaha and Waikawa Points before catching a light NW breeze assist across Papatea Bay. Really enjoyable paddle in easy conditions to start this trip.
Weaving through the rocks at Te Kaha Point
Waiwaka Point with Cape Runaway in the background
Approaching Orete Point in the foreground. Cape Runaway in the distance
Rocks off Orete Point
Waihau Bay Lodge and boat ramp through the rocks
After rock hopping around Orete Point I arrived at a busy Waihau Bay boat ramp coinciding with the local fishing competition weigh-in deadline. The jetty had lots of kids fishing off it too. The Waihau Bay Lodge we are booked into is just across the road from the ramp. Very handy and great location to enjoy a beer watching the end of day hustle and bustle at the ramp and jetty.
Shaz at the boat ramp
Friday 19 April 2019
Shaza……OMG, up really early today 4.45am and on the road by 5.15am and 8 degrees. Heading to Te Kaha for the next stage of Brent’s Kayak adventure. Passed Ben’s place around 5.45am, the lights were on in the house, guess they are up ready for milking the goats and to check on the new born piglets. Good time to travel, not to much traffic on the road being the first day of the Easter. In Uriti Valley the temperature dropped to 4 degrees, and very foggy! Heading into Pio Pio the temperature dropped to 2 degrees and by Bennydale it was 0 degrees dropping to -1 degree and at one stage.
Stopped at BP in Roturoa for pit stop and so has everyone else! A little wait for coffee, lady kept on apologising for the long wait, not her fault that on public holidays most places are closed. Arrived at Te Kaha at 12.05pm, Brent quickly set up and was on the water by 12.30pm.
Staying at Waihau Bay tonight. I drove onto Maturangi Bay had some lunch and talked to Brent on VHF, stayed until I couldn’t see him any longer. Stopped at the next available stop which was Whanarua Bay asked the camp ground manager if it was alright to park down by the beach for and hour until I make contact with Brent. Once I explained what he was doing, he said that would be fine!
Whanarua Bay Camp ground
Finally made contact with Brent via VHF, making good progress keeping an eye out for him before heading to Waihau Bay. Tried Brent again after an hour and he said that he was 1.5 hour away from Waihau Bay, I soon realised that he had already gone past me! Oh well, in my defence I can’t really see that to good through the binoculars without my glasses on!
On my way I pulled over at Ruakokore and checked out the Historic Church on the point. Had a good look around the church inside and outside,took some photos before driving onto Waihau Bay where we are staying for the night.
Raukokore Historic Church
Waihau Bay Lodge is right on the water front, we have one of the rooms with shared facilities. Brent came around the point into the bay about 4.30pm, he has made good time. Told him that the boat ramp is quite busy today as there is a fishing competition on for Easter. He came into the boat ramp at 4.55pm.
Coming into Waihau Bay
We just had to walk across the road to our ute and room. After he had packed up his gear and showered we made our way down to the bar for a beer and meal. It is a beautiful evening not cold like at home. We sat outside and had dinner with a beautiful sunset, very peaceful place!
Sunset at Waihau Bay
Saturday, 20 April 2019
Waihau Bay to Te Araroa
Distance 55.4km Time 8.9hrs Ave Speed 6.22km/hr
Another early rise. This time with a full day on the water in mind and possible Hicks Bay landing. The forecast is good with NW breeze predicted to kick in during the day. Looking forward to rounding Cape Runaway before stopping at Lottin Point for lunch with Shaz and meet up with John Breen and girlfriend Mira. As always, weather will dictate progress today. Once committing past Lottin Point the next accessible point is Hicks Bay. A chat to a local fisherman at the boat ramp warned of the narly lee shore between Lottin Point and Hicks Bay if the NW gets too strong. He wished me well.
Farewell to Shaz at Waihau boat ramp
Waihau Bay jetty
Looking back at Waihau Bay and Orete Point after launch
After a calm launch I met a moderate off shore easterly headwind and chop across Whangaparaoa Bay that got annoying through the middle stages. The wind appeared to be funnelling down the Whangaparaoa valley into the Bay. Once in the shadow of Kopongatahi Point and Cape Runaway the calm sea returned.
Approaching Cape Runaway
Caught the gentle tidal stream round Cape Runaway. I have been looking forward to this Cape for a long time and got to enjoy it in great conditions. Several fishermen were anchored off Otarawhata Island and rocks off the Cape.
Rounding Cape Runaway
Cape Runaway
Heading for Lottin Point in the far distance for lunch. Tahurua Point in the foreground.
Typical remote countryside. Old style kiwi bach mid-photo
Hugging the coastline to Lottin Point and nice reception from John, Mira and Shaz despite John urging me to get get a wiggle on as I got within earshot. He got the appropriate response.
Arriving at Lottin Point for lunch
Relaxing lunch at a busy camp area. Looking out to the Point the wind is clearly picking up offshore. Launched with John and Mira in their kayaks heading out for a dive. Wary of the exposed coastline between Lottin and Matakaoa Points and the advice from the fisherman at Waihau Bay; I told Shaz that I would check out the conditions at Lottin Point before committing to the 2.5hr paddle to the relative safety of Hicks Bay.
Goodbyes and good luck to John and Mira before finding perfect NW 10-12kt conditions off the Point. Advised Shaz that I would push on to Hicks Bay and that we should be able to make VHF contact as I rounded Matakaoa Point. Great looking remote coastline between Cape Runaway and Midway Point with lovely remote beaches and the odd old gem of a bach with tough access.
Approaching Midway Point
Matakaoa Point. Lighthouse above the cliff.
From Midway Point to Matakaoa Point the coastline is pretty rugged and rocky with the odd possible landing point where deep ravines met the shoreline. Here there would be a small beach with access available through the rocks.
Approaching Te Araroa
Glad to be around Matakaoa Point and the relative safety of Hicks Bay. Contacted Shaz to say I would push on to Te Araroa as this would provide a better launch option if the weather conditions tomorrow were favourable for a possible East Cape rounding. My alternative plan was to paddle about 2 hours to the East Cape campground, just around Horoera Point, where I would be ready to ponce when the conditions were right. We had checked out this campground on our visit here a couple of weeks ago. Shaz is taking the long road trip home after tomorrow mornings launch and I start my solo mission.
Shaza ……………Brent was up early to make the most of the good weather. He was on the water by 6.50am. What a beautiful morning, warm not like at home in the morning the temperature a little fresh!
Ready for launch at Waihau Bay
Beautiful sunrise at Waihau Bay & Brent setting up before leaving
Brent’s signature wave with his paddle, when he leaves
Once Brent was on his way I thought I might try and have a sleep, but now the kids and baby next door are up and they’re not happy! Oh well, had a shower and packed up then went and had breakfast at the lodge restaurant. Sorry Brent, was going to get muesli but decided to sit in front of the lodge in the sun and enjoy the morning. Still have wifi so sent off some photos of the beautiful morning sun rise to everyone!
Brent told me yesterday that a redheaded Irishman doing contract work for Methanex would be at Lottin Point doing some free diving.
Once I left Waihau Bay around 8.50 am I headed for Lottin Point!
Looking back across to Waihau Bay Lodge
Before I knew it I was at the turn off to Lottin Point, earlier than I thought I’d be!
There are a lot of people here for Easter, the guy in the truck is still here. Found a park under a tree in the shade, right next to John (the Irishman) and Mira, I go over to introduced myself!
Lottin Point Camp ground
We talked for a while and then read my book before a young family came by, that were staying at Waihau Bay last night next to us. They are from Auckland and on holiday for 12 days. They have a 3 month old baby and two older children 4 and 6. The little girl was hungry so gave her a feijoa, she loved it. After about 1.5 hours I tried Brent on the VHF, he is only about 15 – 20 minutes away. The 3 of us head down to the beach, finally I see him! This is the second time that someone apart from myself is there to welcome him ashore. Finally arrived at 12pm.
Arriving at Lottin Point
John, Brent & Mira
Relaxing lunch
After a good catch up and some lunch he set off at 12.53pm from the beach. The wind was picking up a little, so Brent said he would radio me on VHF once he got to the top of Lottin Point to say if he was going to continue or come back. John and Mira were going out for a free dive to catch something for their dinner. They had a spear gun and knife, so it might be fish, Kina or Puna! So all three left the beach at the same time and set off!
John, Mira & Brent all launching at once
Looking across bay at Lottin Point (Wakatiri)
After Brent made contact I waited for another 30 minutes before setting off for Hicks Bay Motel. I checked in to the motel and laid down on the bed for a few minutes and nearly fell asleep! The early mornings are catching up with me I think! So I got up and made myself a strong coffee, got the binoculars, cellphone and sunglasses and headed down to the front of the motel garden with an amazing view of Hicks Bay.
Looking down on Hicks Bay
Tried to make contact with Brent but nothing yet! Around 3.45pm he made contact, he was going to go onto Te Araroa and would be there in about one hour. I waited another 30 minutes before leaving for Te Araroa, not far from here and found a spot at the far end of the beach where he wanted to come ashore. Brent arrived around 5.20pm, he headed for the river mouth as it looked a safer spot to come in! The on-shore wind has got up and the waves are dumping on the beach. Came safely in the river mouth and landing on river bank, not to far from the ute.
Looking across the bay to Haupara Point
Sunday, 21 April 2019
Te Araroa to Whareponga
Distance 53.1km Time 8.9hrs Ave Speed 6.0km/hr
Late decision last night, while checking the forecasts at our Hicks Bay lodgings, to prepare for an East Cape rounding today. The forecasts have aligned at last, with a light NW predicted all day. Coinciding with this was a favourable timing of the ebb tidal stream around the Cape. The ebb flow will be from 0800-1400. AGW I plan to be at the Cape at 1000hrs; Port Awanui by 1300 and Whareponga by 1600hrs. In this area any winds with a westerly component are good as long as you keep tight on the coast.
Another early morning rise for Shaz as I wanted to be on the water by 0700 if possible. Third early start in a row and the day that I would set off on my solo trip. A ten minute drive from the Hicks Bay Motel to the Awatere river mouth at Te Araroa where Secala was loaded up with 6 days worth of provisions and gear. There was a moment of panic when I couldn’t find my bialetti coffee kit. Disaster averted when it was found in the wrong fish bin. Shaza’s suggestion of launching in the river was a lot better than the steep stony beach option.
After hugs and last minute safety advice it was out through the shallow river mouth in a deep draft kayak. Keen to keep a time schedule on a long day, I set a steady pace and immediately feeling the extra drag of the loaded kayak. Needing a little more torque in each stroke. It was a gloomy morning with darker rain bands approaching from the NW.
Approaching Horoera Point. East Island in the distance
Reaching Horoera Point the rain showers had arrived and I was concerned enough to check my weather apps before losing the last of the cellular reception from Te Araroa. The East Cape campground just east of Horoera point was my contingency exit if required. The weather apps had updated and actually showed an improved forecast since looking at them earlier this morning. The conditions on the water were good and the slow moving rain bands had no wind squalls associated with them. Visibility was good enough and my compass and paper charts were on standby. Commitment made to go for the Cape rounding.
East Cape coming to view opposite East Island
Needed to go wide off Te Wharenoanoa Point to avoid breaking shoals. The Cape seemed slow in arriving but very satisfying when it did; including the shift in compass course from 090 to 180 to lift the spirits. For me, this Cape rates right up there with the northern Capes and Cape Palliser as North Island promontories deserving of outright respect. A good degree of satisfaction knocking this one off.
Downhill now and sights now set on Waikori Bluff now conspicuous one hour to the south.
Waikori Bluff under the rainbow
Looking up the Waiapu River valley
The land north of Waikori Bluff is untamed and covered in native bush. South of the Bluff the large braided Waiapu River breaks though to Te Wharau beach were small settlements and broken in land resumes . What a terrific coastline. South of the Bluff remote beaches extend for miles. Numerous possibilities for solo camping. Port Awanui and Whakariki Point is my next waypoint and with a light NW assist, will make it on the 6hr schedule mark. I check in with Shaz via inReach with our scheduled ” All is OK” message.
Looking towards Port Awanui
Kaimoho point lay ahead with my destination Whareponga around its headland.
Kaimoho point ahead
The landing at Whareponga was easy enough with a reef at the northern end offering good surf protection.
Beaut little deserted Bay with fringe of grass just above the beach. Arrived right on schedule at 4pm. This is my target time for landing while solo paddling on this trip as it provides time to establish camp on these shorter days and prep for an early launch the next day.
Whareponga camp
Tokomaru Bay 3.5hrs paddle around Koutunui Head in the distance
Shortly after setting up camp, a 4×4 arrived down the beach and I introduced myself to Willie who was intrigued with my trip and said to mention his name if anyone questioned me about camping here. Kia Ora Willie. Willie works on the farm further up the Valley.
Have noticed for the first time that the front hatch lid is passing water badly. Had to bail out at least 3 liters of water today. The fully laden Secala sees much more water over the bow than normal.
Darkness and the quietness fell quickly. With no cell reception here, a few satellite messages sent via inReach to obtain weather forecasts followed by good sleep, interrupted only with occasional showers.
Shaza ………………Up early, Brent wanting to get Te Araroa beach for early start on his solo journey. Got to the beach at 6.30am.
Precision packing of the kayak for solo trip
Nearly done!
By the time Brent has packed the kayak (tent, bedding, food, cooking equipment, solar panel, VHF, cellphone, inReach, all the safety equipment and water etc) he got on the water by 7am.
An he’s off!
There he goes
Heading out the river mouth
Brent sitting off Te Araroa beach setting up before heading off.
Launched on the river and headed out the river mouth, last I saw of him was when he headed around the end of the bay. I went back to the motel, showered and packed then started on the long journey home. Stopping at Jan and Vic’s in Thornton for lunch to break up the 8 hour journey home to New Plymouth.
Easter Monday, 22 April 2019
Whareponga
The day dawned as forecast last night. NE increasing to 20+kts that was confirmed by the morning forecast received via inReach from Shaz.
It didn’t look like 20kt weather out there however visibility is not good and the fast moving showers suggested my view didn’t tell the whole story. Decided on a lay day which was welcome after three long days and a chance to enjoy camp life in new surroundings. The day cruised by between rain showers. Met Hauri from Rep (Reporua) who came down to surf cast off the beach. Grew up around here and had tales to tell of the fishing in these parts. Was interested with my trip and wished me well. Willie came back down to the beach later and I asked him if I could get some water somewhere. He gave me a ride a couple of k’s up a track to Whareponga which consisted of a handful of houses. Linda welcomed me into her house to fill my containers of spring water and gave me a few feijoas. Super friendly people making do with what they have. No supermarkets anywhere near here. Linda offered me a ride back to my camp however politely declined and enjoyed a walk this remote area. Really appreciate the utter quietness here. Far enough away from the surf, the only sound is the breeze through the trees and the tinkle of the stream as I walk back to camp. So good. The other blessing is that there are no annoying mozzies or sandflies either. Enjoyed a bialetti coffee, took walks along the beach and up the gullies; and caught up with my log during the showers. Some heavy rain during the night. Glad to have the extra fly for protection.
Tuesday, 23 April 2019
Whareponga
Woke to calm morning and forecast from Shaz was for today to apparently get better later in the day. By late morning there was no change apart from heavy cloudy and rain. Visibility was not good. If the rain cleared I could make a dash for Tokomaru Bay. In preparation for that possibility, I packed up everything apart from the fly in readiness for a final call at about midday for a quick getaway. Later in the morning the sun came out momentarily that got my hopes up however it was short lived as more heavy rain soon arrived. Pulled the pin on getting away today, primarily due to poor visibility. Re-made the camp. About 1pm the wind veered NE and intensified bringing more rain. I was happy with my decision to stay and wait out this weather system. So much for the improving weather. Long day doing nothing though as the rain kept me indoors. Bialetti coffee with a teaspoon of honey is my new favorite. Read more of Daniel Silva. Replenished water from the fly which is doing a great job. Could have been miserable without it. Just keeps the water that much further from the tent with lots more dry space for the gear. The powerpack got a short boost today, now showing 4/5 bars which is good especially in the conditions.
Wednesday, 24 April 2019
Whareponga to Tokomaru Bay
Distance 23.5km Time 4.0hrs Ave Speed 5.9km/hr
Very heavy rain and strong winds overnight. Daybreak looked OK with light offshore breeze. Forecast from Shaz at 0700 did not paint a good picture with strong NE up to 25kt all day. Although it was gloomy to the east, it sure didn’t look bad out there. No rain in sight and good visibility. On the basis of the inconsistent forecasts the last couple of days, I decided to go with my own assessment of the conditions. It’s 3 hours to Tokomaru Bay and could retreat to Waipiro Bay if things were worse than they looked. A short trip to Tokomaru Bay would provide the chance to sort out some gear, get internet access for weather forecasts and have a hot shower.
Looking back at Whareponga beach after launch
On the water about 0800 with the light offshore lasting for an hour before a light SE on the nose set in . Half way across Waipiro Bay a cray boat Juno cruised up to check me out, took photos and offered me a kahawai. I later met the crewman at the Tokomaru Bay camp who said he had never seen anything like it on the water and was amazed at the trip. Asked the skipper for a forecast who said it would be good for the next 3 days. Right now though, it looked dark and ominous out east so I stepped up the pace to ensure I would get around to Tokomaru Bay ahead of its arrival. Really didn’t need to worry as the day actually steadily improved.
Tokomaru Bay
Came ashore twice in Tokomaru Bay looking for the camp. Miss you guiding me in Shaz. Landing as close as I could, I still had to carry my gear about 300m to the camp, across a main road. After setting up the tent, the camp owner advised that I should bring my kayak to camp too, rather than hide it in the dunes as “the Maori around here will either trash it or set it adrift”. Using grass verges as much as possible, I still had to drag Secala across an asphalt road 3 times to get it to camp! Having a hard life. Going to be a painfully slow start tomorrow dragging all the gear back to the beach. Set up tent and fly to dry, had a nice hot shower ($2 for 3 minutes) and then the rain arrived. So much for drying gear out!
At least I was able to stretch out in the camp kitchen to charge the battery pack, make a coffee and, now with internet access, look up forecasts for myself. Going to have sweetcorn toasties and kumara chips from the takeaway next door. So good after freeze dri tucker. Sure hope it’s not raining in the morning. Packing up and getting into wet gear sucks.
Anzac Day, Thursday, 25 April 2019
Tokomaru Bay to Tolaga Bay
Distance 33.3km Time 7.2hrs Ave Speed 4.6km/hr
Terrible sleep last night. I had pitched my tent close to a water pump that cut in and out every few minutes. Compounding that, music was banging away in the neighbourhood until 0200. Got up at 5. Showers during night but the tarp does a great job again. An early breakfast and soon realise that an ANZAC dawn service is taking place next door. Getting gear back to the beach and loaded up took 3 trips and more hull scrapping across roads for poor Secala. I was ready to launch by 0800.
I have an audience on the beach today who have probably been to the dawn service. They will be entertained as there are some good rollers coming in this morning.
Looking back at Tokomaru Bay after clean launch
Rounding Mawhai Point out of Tokomaru Bay
Gentle offshore breeze to start with until reaching Mawhai Point at the southern end of the Bay. The predicted southerly made itself known as I rounded the sloppy seas off Mawhai point. Headwinds persisted for 3 hours until reaching Marau Point when my change of course put the wind a couple of points on the bow making for slightly easier paddling.
Marau Point is the biggest meanest most intimidating headland I’ve come across since Cape Reinga. Photos don’t do it justice. The idiot who named this headland showed no respect and missed the point ……..! I will be calling this fella Cape Marau from now on. Cape Marau ….Sir!
Cape Marau
Cape Marau
Tolaga Bay was in my sights now, beyond Te Karaka Point about 2 hours paddle away. Kaiaua and Karaka Bays had to be crossed with many shoals causing the swell crests to peak. Had to be very watchful throughout this period until reaching the gap between Te Karaka Point and its offshore island.
Te Karaka Point ahead with offshore island (left)
Now in Tolaga Bay I headed for the far side where the jetty is and I knew the campground to be.
Cruised by the Tolaga jetty
Nice surge coming into the beach at Tolaga
Some nice rollers are coming in. Managed to time it well with a nice ride in until the very end when I lost balance leaving it too late to brace into the decent wash. Canned out and pissed off at getting my dry paddle top soaked. A guy on the beach, Matt, came over for a chat and said he was impressed with my ride in!! Matt gave me a lift of Secala up the beach to the campground and later gave me a very welcome beer once I had set up my tent.
Tolaga jetty
Plenty of room to spread out
Checked in at the camp office and another animated conversation about my trip. A better campground than Tokomaru but twice the price at $20. Free showers through, and no 3 minute limit. Set tent up in a quiet spot and spread the gear out to dry in the remaining sunlight. The front hatch of Secala had accumulated another 3-4 litres of water again today.
Friday, 26 April 2019
Tolaga Bay to Tatapouri
Distance 44.2km Time 7.5hrs Ave Speed 5.9km/hr
Quiet night and good sleep last night. Up at 0530 for breakfast in the kitchen before packing up. Good cell reception here for checking forecasts. Tent and fly wet with dew. Wasn’t looking forward to getting into a soaked paddle top from yesterdays turtle. On beach and I was ready for launch just before 0800. Easy through the surf, under the jetty and towards Pourewa island. Was planning to go round the outside of Pourewa Island as I didn’t have enough info to know if it was safe to go through the gap. I sent a speculative very early morning email to Lynn (Red) Paterson enquiring about this Pourewa gap and gratefully received a prompt reply. This gap didn’t bring back any memories for her and didn’t believe she had gone through it, suggesting it could have been tidal. I agreed that without any intel that I would play it safe and go round the outside. Lynn has been a terrific support contact for me throughout this adventure and never fails to respond when my flag goes up.
Shaz is meeting me at Tatapouri today AGW, after another long road trip from New Plymouth. No 4pm “on the water” deadline today to set up camp.
Under Tolaga Bay jetty
Looking back
Once I got to the Pourewa gap, on a calm sea and low swell, it looked like a lake and I could see nearly all the way through. With the high tide a couple of hours away, the only unknown was what the conditions would be like exiting the gap. I couldn’t resist at least having a look. Could always come back out if things didn’t look OK.
The mainland side was very steep and when I looked up I was surprised to see some goats halfway down a barren bluff. I told them they were silly billies as there was plenty of good grass and scrub on the top. Through the gap and on the other side the sea was calm and the sun out. Great change from recent days . On days like today I feel like I can paddle forever.
Round this point with the white cliffs of Gable End Foreland coming into view in the distance
Around the next point and the great GEF presented its elegant magnificent self. Two hours later and negotiating the reefs at Gable to see a line of further breakers on the other side.
Gable End Foreland
It was difficult to see a way through the breakers even when I got closer. Thankfully a cray boat working the area was heading back south that gave me the lead on what path to take. Although the path was a good one I found myself sprinting in a couple of places as the swell peaked a little too much for my liking. There is another beautiful isolated beach just south of GEF.
Whangara Island (left) resembling a beached whale
I could see all the way to Whangara now, an hours paddle away, and the whole area was littered with shoals. With a calm sea I was able to negotiate a path through the maze and use the many cray pots to guide me round the outer edge of most reefs. Lunch and coffee on beautiful beach. Have come to enjoy stopping somewhere for lunch, where possible, and get a closer look at these places that I may never see again.
Maori legend says that Paikea reached Whangara from Hawaiki on the back of a whale. The whale became this rock, Whangara Island.
Very shallow (maybe walkable) channel between land and island at low tide
The low 1 meter surf has a surprising punch to it here with a strong surge up the beach and backwash. This actually swung me 180 and I resorted to reversing out through the shore break before turning. I hung back to show some respect and tried to get my timing right but failed in that regard. Advancing too far, I had a full set to contend with and got pushed back strongly a couple of times. A laden Secala providing good stability and easily through in the end. Around Whangara Island and I could see my destination Tatapouri an hours paddle away. Headed directly for it before realizing, as l got closer, that there was no gap through the long line breakers that extended from the shore. Went out wide and followed the cray pots safely round the reef.
Tatapouri boat ramp and camp
Contacted Shaz by phone who said she was still 30 minutes out of Gisbourne. I would arrive at the beach before her. On the way towards the beach, still a couple of miles out, I was surprised to see skippies (skipjack tuna) jumping clean out of the water right in front of me. Told a kayak fisherman about it, anchored just off the beach, who wasn’t at all surprised.
Landed on a flat sea at the boat ramp at Tatapouri that is just meters from the campground where Shaz has booked a tourist flat. Waited half an hour for Shaz to arrive after a loooong drive from New Plymouth.
Friday 26 April 2019
Shaz ……….Packed the Ute yesterday as it was going to be an early start today. Daniel and Alex’s flight to Wellington was at 6.50am. Finished packing, loaded up the Ute with their bags and headed for the airport about 5.50am. Once they boarded their flight I set off for Whakatane for lunch and then onto Gisborne and then up to Tatapouri.
Stopping at Jan Vic’s for lunch at Thornton on the way to break up the trip, as it’s a long drive to Gisborne.
Driving through Waioeka Gorge nearing Matawai I got bad cramp in my right foot and leg so had to pull over and get out of the Ute walked around it about 3 times and drank heaps of water! Once it settled down I set off again, only for it to come back half hour down the road! While walking around the Ute and drinking water Brent rang, I said that I might be a little late getting there now! He said that we may end up getting there about the same time. Brent did arrive before me by about 20 minutes. Oh well never mind! I need to drink more water! Brent looking a little like a homeless man with a beard and his buff on his head (like someone you’d see at WOMAD).
The motor camp at Tatapouri was just there next to the boat ramp, I had already booked a self contained room for us. Nice views from the deck, nice room and the shower and toilet were detached from the room outside the sliding door. Early night for both of us, been a long day!
Saturday, 27 April 2019
Tatapouri to Sponge Bay, Gisborne
Distance 12.8km Time 2.25hrs Ave Speed 5.7km/hr
Beautiful view of the sunrise from our room. No rush this morning as I only intend paddling a couple of hours down the coast before making our long way home via Thornton. Bacon and eggs for breakie before wheeling an extra light Secala down to the boat ramp.
Moderate NW offshore wind today so hugged the coast past Okitu and Wainui before rounding Tuaheni Point to Sponge Bay.
Tuaheni Point
Sponge Bay ahead
Sponge Bay
Arrived at about 1100hrs which is an hour before the 1.8m high tide. Need to remember that there is just enough beach to launch from, at this tide height. Had Shaz on the beach to meet me for the first time in a week. Pulled Secala up the stairs before enjoying a coffee. End of a great week long trip. Had everything. Learned heaps. Enjoyed it all.
Shaz …….Up early to see the sunrise, beautiful morning!
Sunrise at Tatapouri
Took our time this morning nice cooked breakfast bacon and eggs (mainly because I forgot the muesli) and then Brent got his kayak ready. He has decided to only do a short paddle today and go to Sponge Bay. About 8.15 he left the motel and headed down to the boat ramp by himself as its just down by the entrance to the camp ground.
Walking Secala down the road
On his way to Tatapouri Boat Ramp
At 8.30 I saw him paddling out to go around the reef from our room.
Just after 9am once I had packed up I headed towards Okitu beach to make contact with Brent to see how he was going as the wind was up a little. Decided to stop at the look out on Tatapouri Point, saw him in the distance and took some photos of the bay.
Photo taken from Tatapouri Point lookout
Made contact with him at Wainui, and he said that he was going well and would go onto Sponge Bay as planned.
Sponge Bay
So I made my way to Sponge Bay, parked up and read until he arrived around 10.40am when he came into view. Landed on the beach at 10.46am in style.
Now he has to get the kayak up some steep steps!
Once he made it to the top, we sat down and had a coffee, with some fruit cake. Took our time to pack up and then we headed for Thornton where we are staying the night at Jan and Vic’s once again to shorten the trip home.
It’s been a month since our previous trip through Thornton. With a view to my next; and last, big push (10 days) for this summer looming at Easter, this short trip was about both; making progress towards East Cape as the weather permitted; and sizing up the unfamiliar coastline ahead.
THIS TRIP: Torere to Te Kaha – 1 paddle day
Distance 31.6km Time 5.25hrs Average Speed 6.0km/hr
Encouraged by a good forecast today, an early rise at Opotiki Motor Camp and a 15 minute drive to Torere beach for a dawn launch at high tide. It was clear when we landed here last month with low tide and swell that this was a dumping beach. With some anticipation we pulled up at the beach at dawn to check out the surf.
Great day just beyond the shore dump
High tide dumpers
The bigger sets were intimidating. After sizing up the break, Shaz suggested we move along the beach 100m where it seemed less severe. Of course, once we got there it seemed better where we were!
The challenge to get through the narrow dumping shore break seemed easy enough if you could get the timing right. There lay the problem; as I had to stay high on the steep beach to avoid the powerful backwash. Only option was to wait out the worst of the set and commit.
Canned out on first attempt, bugger!
Got through on the second attempt with some helpful pushing from Shaz. Good teamwork! With adrenaline pumping, I didn’t stop paddling until well clear before stopping and sharing the moment with Shaz via VHF, after she had run 100m back down the beach to get the VHF out of the ute.
My target destination today was Maraehako Bay, about 7.5hrs paddle. With an ebb tidal assist and light variable winds this should have been an easy day. The rugged and remote coastline made for pleasant paddling. Large tracks of felled exotic forestry opened up from time to time. Slowly, the trees of the low lying Te Kaha headland emerged on the horizon like masts of distant ships until eventually joining hands with the mainland.
Had not heard from Shaz all morning which was puzzling as the maps of the area seemed to show the road following the coast.
Inexplicably after 4.5 hours paddling I was starting to feel increasingly weary! Also not feeling a hundy today.
Decided to call it quits at Te Kaha after only 5.25 hours on the water.
Approaching Te Kaha
Shaz guiding me in from Te Kaha Hotel balcony
A flat landing on a stony beach protected by reefs on either side. Shaz guided me in from the deck of the hotel above the beach. Disappointed with my progress today, but as always making the prudent decision is a no brainer. Looking forward to an easy launch from here next time anyway. Had a nice lunch and coffee on the beach with Shaz.
Low tide at Te Kaha
Looking southwest towards Opotiki
Decided to spend tomorrow doing a reccie of the coastline towards East Cape which is the next big objective of this adventure.
Lottin Point beach
Hicks Bay wharf (derelict). Horoera Point in the distance.
Approaching East Cape around Te Wharenaonao Point
View south towards Waikori Bluff from East Cape track
Shaz ……….Arrived in Torere last night, ready for the next stage of Brent’s Kayak Adventure. Up early, just after 6am so Brent can get on the water by day break! Well that was the plan anyway.
Torere Beach
Arrived at Torere at 7.10am, loaded up the kayak awesome morning however the sea’s a little rough. Brent drags the kayak down over the stony beach to the shoreline.
Checking it out
Oh dear, some real dumpers today with the beach being so steep makes it worse. Brent tried to launch, two or three times sitting in the kayak attaching his skirt to the kayak, but then releasing it as it was too rough. Once he finally gave it a go, but NO way, timing all wrong not the timing would have been good! He was dumped big time, managed to get out and had to run to catch his kayak before it got pulled out in the strong backwash! I managed to video it all, thank goodness, however I did get a laugh out of it sorry Brent!
Once he pumped all the water out, secured his paddle float and pump; time to try again. Realising that he lost one of his gloves, oh well its gone now!
Watching the waves and realised that he was going to have the same problem, I decided to take my shoes off, pulled up my trouser legs to my knees, leave my cellphone up on the beach and help! Told him I was going to give him a push to see if that helped at all. Oh my God, it must have looked funny from behind! Gave him a push and the wave came in and pushed him sideways, so I had to quickly twist him back around to face the on coming wave and pushed him again getting deeper in the water! Told him paddle quick before the next big wave came and off he went – yeah!! I was really worried that if he didn’t, I would have got really wet next time, as I would have had to go out deeper! Now that would have been funny I guess, at least no one else was around. Sadly with me helping him I never got the launch on video, oh well he had his GoPro on at least!
Finally off Torere beach
Made contact with VHF, and he was off! Meeting him for lunch somewhere near Te Kaha, I’ll make contact with him along the coast somewhere later on. Back to the motel in Opotiki, have a shower, pack up, get diesel, go to supermarket and get a coffee from ‘Two Fish’ Cafe before heading off.
Lots of road works along the road, no internet coverage and not to many places to pull over and make contact with Brent. Before I knew it I was in Te Kaha, so stopped at the Te Kaha Beach Resort.
Finally made contact with Brent and told him to head straight for the Te Kaha beach resort. I got a coffee from the beach resort hotel cafe and sat on their bar balcony with direct line of sight of Brent. Staff here were intrigued with what he was doing, they even gave me free wifi access (normally they charged $5). It seems to be taking a long time, was going to call him and say put your turbo boost paddle on but through better of it!!
Arriving at beach by Te Kaha Beach Resort
He finally arrived around 1.10pm, he was buggered! He said the last hour was hard work and he wasn’t feeling to good (glad I never called him now). We sat down and had some lunch, Brent has decided to call it quits for the day. Not like him at all, so somethings up!
Decided to call it quits for the day
Brent had booked us into Lottin Point Motel for the next 2 nights, so we drove on to there and see what tomorrow brings! We drove on past the road going to Lottin Point and went onto Hicks Bay for a look. Brent wants to check out the beach’s etc, thought about going onto East Cape but Brent said he had enough for today just wanted to go to the motel. If he’s not feeling better tomorrow we’ll go for a drive to East Cape checking out all the stops that he could safely come in and get water for when he comes up at Easter.
Getting to Uncle Vic and Aunty Jan’s place at Thornton has been a key motivating factor for us this entire summer campaign. At the end of the first trip of this summer, back in October (end of trip #5 at Taupotupotu), we had made a non-stop road trip from Taupotupotu to Thornton to check on Vic who wasn’t ‘shipshape’ at the time. Every day on the water since then has had Vic driving “shark bait” (me) along.
This is Taranaki Anniversary weekend offering a 3 and a half day paddle opportunity. Once again the weather forecast wasn’t flash, however on this part of the Bay coastline there was plenty of opportunity to get in short paddle stints as the weather dictated.
THIS TRIP: Papamoa to Torere – 3 paddle days
Overall Distance 122.8km Time 20.85hrs Average Speed 5.9km/hr
Friday, 8 March 2019
Papamoa to Thornton
Distance 62km Time 8.55hrs Speed 7.25km/hr
Stayed at Papamoa overnight Thursday in the hope of an early start. A weather front was due to pass over the Bay today so staying close to the beach and keeping a ‘weather eye’ would be key.
Launched from Papamoa
Launched at sunrise into an easy surf with the outer breaks concealed by the high tide. Didn’t get a splash on me as I timed the shore break to perfection; for a change. After the usual VHF check-in and farewell to Shaz, set off in glassy conditions on a gloomy morning. Okurei Point at Maketu is the next prominent landmark just two hours paddle away. Soon a light northerly came away just behind my port beam to provide a little assist .
Okurei Point off MaketuRounding Okurei Point
From the north, rain showers made way to heavier squalls that were quite intense making the shore barely discernible at times, though it was only a few hundred meters away. Although the light northerly remained, the onshore swell had picked up a notch.
This was a trickle compared with what was to comeSwell picking up
Made contact with Shaz at our scheduled check-in at Pukehina Beach and agreed to a lunchtime rendezvous at Pikowai, a couple of hours further down the beach. Conditions remained similar as I cruised close in to Pukehina Beach before a smooth enough landing at the roadside camp ground at Pikowai. Its such a luxury having lunch with Shaz on the beach and the chance for a stretch. Going to enjoy this while it lasts.
When it came time to launch the tide had ebbed further and the swell increased a tad giving the shore break bit of grunt. Got trashed twice on the beach before breaking out. Thornton was now only 3 hours paddle away and despite the rain, the paddle conditions were good enough and we were excited to be reaching Jan and Vic’s today.
Soon after launch the wind and swell intensified and was now onshore NE (beam on) making paddling more challenging with white caps breaking over the swell, having to brace often against these as they broke over Secala. Maintained a close 400m proximity to the beach now while applying plenty of off shore leeway just to stay out of the surf zone. Comforting to have a lee shore. Could see the front approaching from the NE with wind gusts now streaking the white caps. This wind was short lived as, when the front hit with torrential rain, the wind died away completely. The sea surface was surreal with shore visibility reduced to an outline. Once the front passed the wind returned having backed around a good 60 degrees to NNW and the weather cleared. The following 10kt wind making paddling a lot more comfortable and progress was hastened. Got to Thornton River and Shaz said the bar was OK to paddle through even though it was now low tide. Didn’t want to make a hash of this landing that would have an audience.
We have been looking forward to this arrival for a long time. Came in cleanly over the bar before snagging a fisherman’s line in my rear flag as I came in on the eastern side of the river mouth. Short paddle up river to the boat ramp and a great reception from Vic, Jan and Gaynor. The first planned reception of the whole trip. A good sense of achievement for sure. ‘Stanton Hotel’ is just down the road with home cooking and hospitality.
Jan, Gaynor and Shaz at the Thornton boat rampVic waving from the car.
Shaz ……………..Stayed night at Papamoa Beach Resort, in one of their cabins. Up early so Brent could get off to a good start as weather forecast isn’t that good! Today’s the day, we are going to finally make it to Thornton! We have been so looking forward to coming in there and seeing Vic on the beach meeting Brent! Twelve months ago we wouldn’t have thought this day would come.
Papamoa Beach
He launched at 7.05am from Papamoa Beach in a cloudy overcast day. I headed back to our cabin, showered and packed up then headed for Pukehina. Got my morning coffee from Blackberry Eatery in Papamoa, good coffee and the best muffin ever (curry, cumin and vege), yummy! Drove down Pukehina Beach Road, to the waterfront to make contact with Brent.
Off coast – Pukehina Beach
Weather looks like its getting worse, but not too bad yet! Brent said that he was going to come ashore at Pikowai for lunch. I drove onto Pikowai, nice spot! I stopped at Pikowai Campground, several motorhomes parked up. Thank goodness flushing toilets also! Access to the beach all good, its going to be a while before Brent arrives, so settled in and read my book. Around 11.30am I put on my rain jacket as the weather conditions have worsen, the wind is up and the rain is coming! I walked down to the beach to make contact with Brent. He is making steady progress, heading back to the Ute it started to rain, then the hail started and I got caught in it, bloody hell the things I do! Standing under a tree to keep out of hail! I saw Brent and he is getting near now, back down to the beach to guide him in! It absolutely poured down with rain, really! Oh well what can you do, Brent came ashore at 12.52pm lunch.
Pikowai beach landing
Leaving Pikowai wasn’t easy, it took 3 attempts, it was much rougher than when he landed! Had to pump water out of the kayak twice, I even had a go at it. Launched on the 3rd attempt at 1.20pm.
Driving along the road I pulled into Kohiawa beach at 13.37 and saw Brent going by, then onto Murphy’s camp ground further along the beach, then again at Matata I made contact with Brent on VHF at 2.50pm. He said that it would take about 1.5 hours Thornton beach.
Looking east to Whale Island from Matata
I decided to drive onto Jan and Vic’s at Thornton, after having a cup of tea we all headed to Thornton beach. I saw Brent in the distance and before long he was approaching the beach, he wanted to come into the river mouth. He landed around 4.30pm, it was so nice that he had a welcoming committee for the first time!
Gaynor and Jan welcoming Brent in
Vic waiting by car, also welcoming Brent in
Vic & Brent, a special day!
Saturday, 9 March 2019
Thornton to Ohope
Distance 25km Time 6.0hrs Speed 4.2km/hr
Checked out of ‘Stanton Hotel’ and a couple of kilometers to the Thornton River boat ramp. On the water a little later than usual. Jan joining us at the ramp to see me off, full of questions about the kayak and its setup.
Boat ramp launches are quite a luxury however not knowing what the river bar looked like at high tide, everything was securely packed down. Once out of the ramp the river current swept me swiftly out through the river mouth and cleanly over bar.
View back toThornton Beach having cleared the barKohi Point outside Whakatane HarbourLooking into Whakatane Harbour
Whisper of an offshore southerly to start with quickly turned into a SE headwind that varied in the 10-15kt range. A nice little morning workout, I figured, as the forecast was for the wind to turn to an onshore NE in the afternoon. After 4 hours of the workout, for only a 16km gain, I was ready to join Shaz for lunch at Ohope Beach. On the way in through the easy surf and fully under control, I tried to be a bit clever with the technique and promptly (and embarrassingly) canned out. Lesson learned!
Out of Ohope and into the same headwind. By 1530 I had reached the last access point down the east end of Ohope beach. With the next access point at Opotiki couple of hours normal paddle away (3 hours at my current rate) and no sign of the wind shifting or abating I decided to call it quits after just 6 hours and only 25km gained. On the bright side, ‘Stanton Hotel’, is just down the road
Shaz……… Late start today, hopefully the weather will be better today! So nice staying with family for a change! Left Jan and Vic’s for the beach around 7.50am, Brent got sorted and had a new support crew member today Jan! She helped Brent carry his kayak for the boat ramp, strong!!! Not bad for someone 70+!
Jan helping Brent carry kayak to the boat ramp
Jan & Brent
Brent launched from the boat ramp on the river at 8.22am and then paddled out the river mouth around 8.40am.
Heading down the river
Too quick for me to drive from the boat ramp to the car park looking out over the river mouth to record him going out! Oh well you can’t catch them all! Returned to Jan and Vic’s, had a late breakfast and cup of tea and chat before packing up and heading for Ohope beach. First stop Blueberry Corner for coffee and a Blueberry muffin each for us! Stopped in at Coastlands beach for check on Brent around 10.50am, called on the VHF but no reply. I could see him quite clearly however. Going over to Ohope I stopped at Ohope lookout to see if I could see him but nowhere in sight.
Looking down on Ohope
Looked around the shops in Ohope before going down by the Surf Lifesaving club and Brent made contact at 12.05pm and said that he was going to the far end of Ohope for lunch. I decided to go for a drive down the west end of Ohope to have a look. At 12.29pm Brent called saying that he was going to come in now where I was, thank goodness I hadn’t left to go down the far end of beach! He was paddling into a head wind, so came in early for lunch break at 12.34pm.
West End beach at Ohope
After lunch he launched at 1.20pm and would contact me where he was heading, just depends on the conditions. I contacted Brent at 2.35pm to see how he was going, he said that it was ok at the moment. He asked me to contact him when he got closer to the south end of Ohope beach to see how he was feeling. Brent contacted me at 3.15pm to say that he was coming in as he was battling into a head wind. Landing on the beach at 3.25pm.
Jan has been in regular contact today, and said that we were welcome to stay the night there if we wanted. We decided we would take up her offer and go back there for the night, its only a 20 minute drive.
Sunday, 10 March 2019
Ohope to Torere
Distance 35.8km Time 6.3hrs Speed 5.7km/hr
Another farewell from ‘Stanton Hotel’ with Vic waving from his bedroom window and wishing “shark bait” a safe voyage. Launched into a calm sea however the forecast was for more easterly headwinds.
Ohope Beach launch
Shaz check in at Waiotahe. Conditions good so to Opotiki for lunch.
Headwinds were now slowing me down. Came in to easy surf at Opotiki with an audience that Shaz had found. They were very interested in what we were doing.
Coming in at OpotikiHikuwai Beach at Opotiki. Locals on horses riding down the beach.
Headwinds seem to have set in now. Not sure how long I would last so I suggested to Shaz to check in at Opape.
Once out on the water, the headwinds changed to a stiffening offshore breeze ahead of a front approaching over the ranges. Strong offshore gusts knocked me off balance a couple of times and was more concerning than the strong onshore winds of yesterday. Held a 100m off shore for security. Fortunately I just got the edge of the front as it passed through just before landing at Opape.
Opape BeachOpape Beach looking west to OpotikiOpape beach looking east
After seeing the front pass by l decided to push through to Torere while conditions were OK and trying to get the most out of a late start. Easy surf at Opape. Beautiful rock hopping around the points to Torere.
The coastal lowlands and long white beaches of the western BOP now gives way to a more rugged and menacing landscape where stony bays are punctuated by a succession of narly looking Points as far as you could see towards Cape Runaway. And then the adventure really returns with the reputation of East Cape (and beyond) looming; anticipation returning for the first time since North Cape.
On my way to Torere, looking back at OpapeWeaving through the rocks between Opape and Haurere PointHaurere Point (Torere in the background)Torere at the end of the bay
Approaching the beach at Torere where Shaz is waiting to guide me in. The first stony beach since east Coromandel north of Whangapoua. There was no surf but could see that the beach was steep so expected a small shore dump. Worked up some pace on the back of a wave so that I could get as far up the beach as possible, hopefully providing a second or two extra for a quick exit. Good practice anyway. Easy enough landing but wondering what a high tide could offer up.
Shaz guiding me in aheadStony Torere Beach at low tide
Shaza…… Had breakfast and packed up from Jan and Vic’s place then head for Ohope beach.
Launching from Ohope beach at the far end, off Phillips Street beach access, dragging the kayak down to the beach.
Brent was on the water by 8.52am. He wants to make up for yesterday and try to make it to Omaio beach.
Drive to Opotiki , stopped at Ohiwa beach and called Brent on the VHF. He said that he was making good progress, I drove on arriving at Waiotahe beach at 10.20am what a beautiful stop and waited for him to go past to make contact once again.
Waiotahe beach
He was still making progress, wind starting to get a little stronger. Brent suggested we meet for lunch at Opotiki along the beach somewhere.
Drove past Opotiki for about 5 minutes, no access to Opotiki due to sand dunes. Found a rest area which was also an overnight camping area for motorhomes/self contained vehicles. Meet some lovely people that had pulled up for a cuppa! OMG so looking forward to getting our campervan!
Crowd waiting (well one or two people)
Lovely people really interested in what Brent was doing. They stayed around and talked to him which was really nice for him! He landed on the beach at 1pm.
The headwind was getting stronger, so Brent wasn’t to sure how much further he would go but to check in with him near Opape. Off I went heading for Opape, missed the turn off and went on over the hill to Torere. No cellphone reception here, so headed back down the road and saw Opape Camp ground sign so turned down there. Contacted Brent and he said that he was coming in, as a front was coming through.
Opape beach
After a short time the front passed through and he decided to continue on to a least Torere! At least it knocks off another hour of his journey. Torere is a very stony/pebbly beach, a little steep but should be ok Brent can handle it NO problem!
Torere beach
Landed on Torere beach at 4.55pm, he pulled the kayak up the stony beach to the Ute. Loaded up and headed to Opotiki for the night. May go for a short paddle tomorrow before heading home.
This was an unlikely long weekend trip weatherwise, however being there meant that I could take opportunities on the water as they presented themselves. Left home on Thursday afternoon and booked into Whangamata campground on the way. The punt proved fruitful, making yards on two consecutive days.
THIS TRIP: Onemana to Papamoa – 2 paddle days
Overall Distance 86.2 km Time 12.36 hrs Average Speed 7.0 km/hr
Distance 86.2km , Time 12.36hrs , Average Speed 7.0km/hr
Friday 22 February 2019
Onemana to Bowentown
Distance 40.6km , Time 5.96hrs , Average Speed 6.8km/hr
Shorter drive to Coromandel last night arriving at Whangamata campground at 1930. Up at 0530 to cook breakfast but no big rush as the campground gates aren’t opened until 0700. It’s been raining overnight with forecast suggesting a light northerly rising later. Just a 10 minute drive to Onemana and curious (as always) to see what the surf would look like, now close to full tide this time. Good to see the surf break was gone leaving a large shore dump about 20 meters off the steep beach. Would be an easy launch if I got my timing right. Well, this time it wasn’t! Managed to plow straight into a dumper as it broke over the bow. I got picked up and shunted straight back up the beach. Somehow stayed upright and quickly realised that my paddle float had been forced out and overboard from under the 3 deck bungies and the deck bag tie-downs. Out of reach, I managed to get it back onboard using the paddle and frantically continue my exit attempt before the next dumper. With no time to secure the paddle float (now jammed under the deck bag) I slammed into the next dumper and lost it overboard again while, again, being thrown back up the beach. Third time lucky …….. retrieved the paddle float with the paddle again and continued on the next, and successful, attempt to get off the beach. If I had just been patient and got my timing right in the first place ………………..!
A nice wet (drenched) start to the day. Once clear, had a giggle with Shaz on the VHF. Would have been a crack-up to see on video.
Set off on calm sea with rain all around but mostly over the land. Had the compass on standby but the visibility on the water remained good all day. Scheduled a VHF check with Shaz for one hour at Whangamata. A light northerly gathered and the sea got a little lumpy.
Whangamata VHF check-inWhangamata (south end)
Another VHF check-in at Whiritoa an hour and a half later. The sea is a little uncomfortable now but advised Shaz that I would be fine for the next 2 hour paddle to Waihi Beach; and lunch.
Decided to go on to Ocean Beach, Bowentown about 8km south down the beach from Waihi and call it an early finish for the day. The sea had got unpleasantly lumpy now and I didn’t fancy pushing on to the next accessible point of Mt Maunganui, 4 hours further paddle past Matakana Island.
The Ocean Beach sandbanks, courtesy of the Katikati entrance to Tauranga Harbour, had to be negotiated with care. It was now the tail end of the ebbing tide opposing the northerly chop just to make it interesting. Managed to weave my way through to land in one piece right in front of Shaz.
Shaz ………… We arrived at Whangamata holiday Park around 7.40pm last night, we had booked into a kitchen cabin. It was awful! It smelt old and musty. Oh well it is what it is I guess!! Not a good nights sleep, sore back old lumpy mattress, the bed creaks every time you move, No running hot water in kitchen sink (there was a hot tap, just no hot water). Not good value for money at all, $100 for cabin per night plus $1 for a shower! Not getting a good review from me!
Up early, but gates don’t open until 7am. We head for Onemana beach 9.3km 10 minute drive, not to far.
Launching from Onemana Beach
Brent set off in dumpy conditions this morning. A dumping wave washed him back up the beach and his paddle float out from the bungies under the deck bag. Managed to retrieve it quickly with his paddle before it all happened again with the next wave. By the time I got my phone out of my dry bag, I had missed all the action. It would have been good footage too!
Back at camp I showered and packed up, then had to do dishes, sweep up, take our rubbish with us or they would charge a cleaning fee to your credit card! BULLSHIT, for that money what did we get ‘a bad taste in your mouth’!
It is raining now, Brent went past Whangamata beach around 8.30am I made contact him ……. he wasn’t worried about the rain. He said that it was quite calm out there.
Whangamata Beach
I drove onto Whiritoa beach and saw him go past there at 10am.
Whiritoa Beach
Has been raining even harder stopped now though but still not bothering him our there. He said that the wind had got up a little bit, but not a problem! He said he will see me in Waihi Beach for lunch in about 2.5hrs.
Got a coffee at ‘Daisy Chain Cafe really good coffee too! The lady that owns the cafe had this awesome picture on the wall she got in Paris 15 years ago. It was a drawing of a Rhinoceros’s head, with the ‘Louvre’ for the lump on his nose and the ‘Eiffel Tower’ for his horn. The artist was a conservationist and was drawing animals that are endangered and wanted people to take notice and protect these animals. It was so good, she watched him sketch it and asked if he was going to sell it! He was, so she waited until he finished it and carried it around for the rest of her OE.
Our trusty Ute parked at Waihi beach
Brent arrived at Waihi Beach about 12.30pm, had lunch ready for him.
Looking down over Bowentown & Waihi beach’s
After lunch he set off for Ocean Beach at Bowentown about an hour down Waihi Beach. Conditions have got a little worse now, it was an interesting launch, not to worry I got it all on video! WRONG, hadn’t push record had I! Silly woman that’s twice today I’ve missed some good footage.
Staying tonight at Bowentown Beach Holiday Park, in kitchen cabin $95 per night! Flash, no smells, clean, good bed, bunk beds, very nice kitchen, fridge freezer, table and chairs and TV! Woohoo!! Raining again, but they really need it up here!
Ocean Beach at Bowentown
Lady from the camp was walking past and saw Brent’s kayak outside with all his gear on it. She was concerned as last Saturday night someone stole a fisherman’s kayak and all his gear, also stole bikes and other things from around the camp. Looking at the security camera’s it was about 2am in the morning, she suggested that Brent could put the kayak in there garage behind their locked gates to their house which he did.
Saturday 23 February 2019
Bowentown to Papamoa
Distance 45.6km , Time 6.4hrs , Average Speed 7.1km/hr
Later start as weather front was due to pass through this morning. Forecasts aren’t consistent but worst is meant to be a moderate SW that could slow me down. I could get some cover from Matakana Island for the 4 hour paddle to Mt Maunganui, if necessary. Walked to the top of Bowentown Heads, just behind the motor camp, to check the conditions at the Katikati entrance and bar and get a better feel for the weather coming out of the west. Higher tide now and the bar looked narly on both sides of the entrance. Weather looked to be clearing from the west now with patches of clear sky showing. No wind to speak of.
Got Secala from the campground garage that the Campground owner offered due to recent spate of thefts. Owner was intrigued by my trip and keen hear all about it.
Higher tide for the launch today smoothing over some outer breaks but still breaking on the larger sets. Definitely need to be very watchful here. Paddled a long way out before I was comfortable to stop beyond the breakers. Came uncomfortably close to one breaking wave a long way off shore. After the routine VHF check-in with Shaz I set on my way to negotiate the bar on the south side of the entrance. Anxious moments until things flattened out and happy at last to relax into the paddle. Wind conditions were a ripple of a NE that didn’t change all the way to the Mount. Still a grey day though and watchful behind and to the west for any sign of a change. Approaching the Mount, Shaz called to say surf was high at the Mount beach and suggested to head around Moturiki island. Did this and had a nice ride to the beach in lower surf. Am getting to like these lunchtime breaks with Shaz on the beach. As I prepared to re-launch some young lifeguards offered to push me into the water. Suggested that that would be cheating and declined, but nice the see young folk offer help to an old man. (I bet they wouldn’t give up their seat in the bus though) Set out through the surf as the wind had come away from the SW and picked up to about 10kts. Making good speed and feeling strong. Could have easily pushed on to Maketu a couple of hours further on but had a dinner date with Jan and Vic at Thornton which was another hours drive away.
Shaz called up to guide me in to Papamoa. Had a good ride in through the surf until the last shore break dumped me despite my brace attempt. Shaz sure to have had a good laugh. A guy from one of the beach houses came out to give me the thumbs up for my ride and offered to help me up the beach with Secala. Talked to him for a bit about what I was doing.
Shaz …………. Great nights sleep, in a comfy bed! Rained all night, they really need it up here! I got up around 6.45am, Brent must be outside checking the conditions. When he came back it was after 7.15am, said that it looked OK but was going to wait for the 8am weather forecast before making his final decision. He went to the camp owners house to retrieve his kayak and get organised just in case. Happy with the weather report and was keen to go and knock another day off his adventure. Headed down to the beach (across country this time) at the end of the camp access rather the road.
Cross country entry to Ocean Beach at BowentownLaunching at Ocean Beach
I stayed up on the boardwalk and watched him and get ready to video his launch as it maybe a ‘hairy one’. On the water by 8.15am, took 20 minutes to get out past the breakers. He turned on his inReach at 8.35am and started to head for Mt Maunganui where I will meet him for lunch.
Looking across towards Mt Maunganui from Ocean Beach; 2 ships in the distance
Back to camp showered, packed and headed off for Mt Maunganui. Along the way I stopped at Waihi Beach town had a coffee and a look around the shops. One of the shops there was ‘The French Shop’, wanted to have a look in there but didn’t open until 10am that’s the French for you!! Sorry Alex!
I set off for the Mount, no places to stop off and make contact with Brent as he was on the other side of Matakana Island. The Mount was a busy place today, full of Americans from on board the cruise ship that was in port. Being a Saturday doesn’t help, as everyone was at the beach! It was an overcast day but that didn’t stop people, especially the surfers. The main beach was great for the surfers, but not so good for Brent to come in on!
Mt Maunganui beach
Waves were dumping on the beach, so suggested that he come in on the other side of Moturiki Island. He landed on the beach at 12.45pm, good ride in!
We had lunch on the beach, and talked about whether he wanted to go onto Maketu. Decided to go down the beach to Papamoa somewhere, about where the road ends.
Brent was back on the water at 1.17pm. I went on looking at the shops, got some beer for Brent when he finished. Driving down the road there aren’t many places where you can get access to the beach from the car without a long walk. So I looked around and found Motiti Road with a beach access car park, perfect! Called Brent on VHF as I could see him! Right next to me was a house with a Blue gazebo right on the edge of their property and the beach told him to head for that! He saw it and headed for that, said that he was packing down his gear and coming in. OMG what a ride he had and then right at the last minute over he went! He hasn’t come out like that for a while and I actually got all that on video! Thumbs up for me, as I have sucked at that lately.
Some locals witnessed Brent’s landing/capsize, and came down to the beach to talk to him. He said that he has lived here a long time and seen a lot of people come in, but none of them had had a great ride in like Brent. He was even kind enough to help lift the kayak up the steps to the Ute.
Locals that witnessed his landing!!
Tonight we are going to Jan and Vic’s for the night in Thornton, Whakatane. Vic (82yrs) is looking forward to Brent coming in at Thornton beach. Heading home tomorrow, until next time!
Another quick weekend away to maintain momentum while we can. Thursday (14th) evening travel to Whangapoua before a possible two and a half days on the water before returning home. Weather forecasts are inconsistent after Friday. With plenty of road access to this Coromandel coast, there will be no need for contingency of solo camping gear this trip.
THIS TRIP: Whangapoua to Onemana – 2 paddle days
Overall Distance 72.1 km Time 14.1 hrs Average Speed 5.1 km/hr
Distance 72.1km Time 14.1 hrs Ave Speed 5.1km/hr
Friday, 15 February 2019
Whangapoua to Pauanui
Distance 54.6km Time 9.8hrs Speed 5.6km/hr
Arrived late at Whangapoua Holiday Park, which is just a few minutes down the road from our launch tomorrow. Was after 2200 before bunking down to a fitful sleep. After an early (0530) cooked breakfast for a possible longer day; down to the beach about sunrise and dragged Secala through a lot of spongy decomposing seaweed to find hard sand. Launched through low surf and off by 0700 having said to Shaz that I would see her at Hahei Beach for lunch. Another day on her quest to find the best coffee shop in the country 🙂
Rising sun in my face and the tide ebbing behind me for the first two hours until rounding into Opito Bay.
Kaurewa Point just before rounding into Opito BayBoulder Beach linking Tokarahu Point to the mainland. Opito Bay behind Boulder Beach. Rounding Tokarahu Point into Opito BayOpito Bay
Got a VHF call from Shaz as I crossed Opito Bay which was a nice surprise. Good paddling conditions across Opito Bay and into the “Hole in the Wall” passage that I know well from my past.
Rounding Rabbit Island at the southern end of Opito BayThe gap between Rabbit Island and Opito PointTurning the corner into Mercury Bay. Hahei (and lunch) in the background.
Conditions are still favourable until entering Mercury bay for the two hour crossing to Hahei. The tide has turned and a light SW’ly is also slowing me down a little.
Hahei Beach. Shaz is ahead directing me in.
Shaz directed me into the beach beside a bunch of kayaks that were being prepared for tour groups to Cathedral Cove. After a relaxing lunch on the beach I was in no hurry to get on the water again. Checking the forecast, tomorrows weather was not promising and during lunch the wind had backed around to the East stiffening to 10kts. This made the decision easy to use these conditions for easier paddling, and push on to Tairua. Launched easily avoiding dumping surf then realised my front hatch lid wasn’t secured properly. Landed again to secure it.
Departing Hahei for Wigmore Pass at the south end of Hahei beachRounding Waipapa Island with Tokaroa Point (Tairua Harbour) in the backgroundTairua beach to right of Paku headland. Pauanui and Tairua Harbour on the other side.Tokaroa Point (end of Paku Headland)
Enjoyable coastline paddling all day and although feeling lethargic (tired bugger!) at lunch time, am feeling strong now after 9 hours . Shaz called to say she had booked at Pauanui instead of Tairua which was only an extra 30 minutes or so further to paddle. Rounded Tokaroa Point and was taken by surprise at the break over the bar at Tairua Harbour entrance. There were no boats coming or going to give me pointers so sat at the edge of the bar and watched the sets for some time. Spotting a gap I managed to sprint through to the harbour entrance where Shaz was directing me where to land. After anxious moments, a flat landing and good yards made today.
Once on the beach, with tomorrow in mind, I took note of the path a couple of boats took through the bar.
Shaz ……. Up early and drove Brent to Whangapoua beach so he can start his next leg of his kayak adventure. We stayed at Whangapoua Beach holiday park in a cabin, very nice! Upon arrival I noticed that there was a whole lot of something all over the place, some sort of sea weed I think! You could see where the tide came up as it was even on the grass in car park.
Decomposting weedSmelly seaweed, that looks like carpet!
We had to walk through it, I nearly slipped and it was smelly! It was all around the high tide mark, looking at it it was old carpet! Getting closer to the water the smell was awful, smelled like sewage and the sand was really soft I stuck one foot in completely covering my sandals! OMG the smell, shit did it smell literally!! Brent was on the water by 7am, heading for Hahei.
Back at Whangapoua I packed up and set of for Hahei, where I was going to meet Brent for lunch. On the way I decided to take a drive to Opito Bay for a look. Stoppped for coffee at ‘Trading Post’ cafe in Kuaotunu Bay. Busy place, not many places to sit, this lady asked me to join her as she was on her own also! We got talking, she was impressed with what Brent was doing. Her husband wanted her to circumnavigate NZ on a bike, but she isn’t interested. We were around the same age and our husbands are both 60. As a family they had just returned to NZ on Wednesday from doing some Missionary work in Guatemala, building houses for the needy. They took their 2 kids with them, aged 14 & 15 they started late in life! Son was over it very quickly but daughter love it. She was from Auckland but here staying with friend in Kuaotunu Bay and was on her way to Tairua to stay with her mother. Drove over to Opito bay for a look and to see if I could see Brent at all.
Opito Bay – Rabbit Island in foreground. Hole in the Wall passage between Rabbit Is and Old Man Rock on the left.Opito Bay looking north
Beautiful and yes I did and made contact with him. From here I headed for Hahei to meet him for lunch. What a lovely place, beautiful beach lots of tourist in campervans. Bloody hot today, I hear that it’s raining in New Plymouth they could really do with some rain up here.
Hahei Beach
Brent arrived around 1.15pm, we had a picnic lunch on the beach under a tree in the shade. Watching all the tourists gearing up to go kayaking to Cathedrel Cove with their prospective tour guides.
Landing on Hahei Beach
Brent is nakered, deciding whether to continue or not! He looked up the weather report to check the weather for tomorrow. Not so good tomorrow, so made the call to continue on today!
Preparing to leave Hahei for Tairua
Brent launched again around 2.05pm for Tairua, only to come back ashore again a minute later as he forgot to close one of the hatches on kayak. Finally got away at 2.15pm, he will call me later on about where he wants to come in.
I headed off for Tairua, arriving there I brought a takeaway coffee and looked around the town and the art gallery. Some great art, but prices were out of my league! I sat under the trees in the park next to the beach, and decided where we were going to stay for the night. Holiday park in Tairua is not good, so made the call to stay in Pauanui at camp there. I made contact with Brent and told him to go straight to Pauanui rather than Tairua. Booked into camp in Pauanui, really nice cabin same price as last night but bigger! Brent arrived at Pauanui beach at 6pm.
Saturday, 16 February 2019
Pauanui to Onemana
Distance 17.5km Time 4.3hrs. Average Speed 4.1km/hr
Wasn’t in a hurry this morning but still got up at 0530. Really hot night but still a better sleep than the last couple of nights. Cooked breakfast dispatched and down to the Pauanui boat ramp. Flat launch at the boat ramp into Tairua harbour at 0800 with ebb flow out through the entrance. With a bar to negotiate everything was battened down. The tide was 4 hours into the ebb which was a little more advanced than my arrival time last night. Glad to have watched a couple of boats negotiate the bar last night that gave me some glues on the best channel to take. Without the speed of a boat I was still going to rely on timing and luck as breakers over the bar were big. Heart in mouth moments as I lipped over a couple of large waves before they broke. Happy to get out the back in one piece. Headed south in easy conditions until I passed Storm Beach when a southerly kicked in with some venom making it a grind. Was happy to grind it out knowing that I had a couple of handy exit points at Opoutere and Omemana within a few kilometers. Headwinds were steady 15kts gusting higher. Eased my aerobic workout by hugging Opoutere beach trying to avoid the worst of the chop. What a great beach spot this is. Will return.
Stopped to ring Shaz to say I would pull in to Onemana for lunch and reassess the day. The conditions made it difficult to stop for more than a few seconds . In one extended stoppage I opened the day bag to get a banana and gel pack, consume the gel pack and take a pee and lost 100m of ground. Needed to take care not to loosen my grip on the paddle in the air.
Eventually turned into the beautiful Onemana Bay. Always surprised at how different these places are from what you imagine.
Contacted Shaz on VHF to get a surf report. There was clearly sandbank, in the middle of the bay, shoaling a fair way out. Shaz said the best spot was at the south end of the beach where the surfers were and that she had her video ready as I was going to get smoked this time for sure ……..!
Approached cautiously letting a couple lip under me before sprinting for the shore and being chased by the tumbling surf. Braced and washed ashore in one piece. I think Shaz was impressed, but I sense some disappointment that I didn’t offer up some carnage for her amusement.
During lunch the white caps off shore had intensified (earlier than expected) so decided to call it quits for this trip. The forecast for tomorrow was worse.
South end of Onemana BeachOnemana Beach looking north
Shaz ………. When I got up this morning, I saw Brent sitting in the chair with his back to me looking like Nana wrapped up in a blanket typing on his iPad. Couldn’t resist taking a photo!
Later start today Brent waiting on weather conditions! He has decided to go for it, not to sure how far he’ll get as the wind is likely to pick up! It’s another beautiful day up here, they could really do with some of that rain they had in the ‘Naki’ yesterday.
Pauanui Boat Ramp launchHeading out of Pauanui behind fishing boat
Brent launched from the Pauanui Boat Ramp at 8am, heading for Whangamata where I’ll meet him for lunch. On my way back to Pauanui Glade Holiday Park I went to Twin Palms Cafe for my morning coffee, great coffee by the way! Shower, pack up and head towards Whangamata around 9.50am. Road seems a little quieter today, even know that it’s Saturday.
Driving along I decided to turn off and go down to Onemana only 3km and check it out! As I was driving down the road Brent rang. He is coming into Onemana as the wind was making his progress too difficult. Weird, I know as I was just pulling into Onemana! Plenty of parks near beach.
Onemana Beach
Access for Brent getting Secala up isn’t going to be much fun! Lots of soft sand! Had a walk along the beach, if it was’t so windy it would be a perfect day! As luck would have it, there is a cafe just across from the car park! Very nice, beautiful music (almost Italian sounding, except they are Indians running it), coffee was so hot that I burnt my tongue! Let it cool down, didn’t taste so good scolded milk taste yuck! I’m sure they had heated it in the microwave as it took a long time to get it! I complained and asked for another one, which they did!
Sat in the Ute and started reading our information pack from NZMCA, which we have joined since we are getting a camper. Saw Brent in the distance through the binoculars, and followed him until he got closer. Then I called him on the VHF, and told him the best place to come in and wished him all the best! The waves were dumping onto the beach, some real big breakers. Told him to go to the south end of the beach where the surfers were! I managed to video the whole ride in! He managed it really well, and landed on the beach at 12.20pm.
We had some lunch and Brent needed to decide whether he was going to continue or not!! Checking out the weather report and seeing the white caps on the waves way out he decided not to continue. Now he needed to get Secala up from the beach to the car park, soft sand and up hill!
What to do now, stay or go home! Go home wins, and our own bed!
A quick long weekend opportunity now that we are within a few hours travel of our launch at Pohutakawa Bay. Weather forecasts and tides were favourable however a few calls would have to be made on the water and contingency for solo camping required.
THIS TRIP: Pohutakawa Bay to Whangapoua – 3 paddle days
Overall Distance 126.3 km Time 21.43 hrs Average Speed 5.9 km/hr
Thursday, 24 January, 2019
Pohutakawa Bay to Papa Aroha
Distance 45.9 km Time 6.8 hr Average speed 6.7 km/hr
On the road early this morning for the 4-5 hour road trip back to Beachlands to get as much time on the water as possible and take advantage of the afternoon tidal ebb flow east through the Tamaki Strait.
Loading up Secala prior to launch at Pohutakawa BayTail wind …….
The intended destination today is Anita Bay on Waiheke for a solo camp prior to crossing the Firth of Thames tomorrow. However the forecast was for Easterlies tomorrow so said to Shaz that I would make the final decision when I reached the open waters of the Firth and assess a possible crossing to Papa Aroha today.
Secala is fully loaded with gear, food and water for two days if necessary. As I entered the Tamaki Strait the tide assist and following SW wind made the going easy.
The beaches of Chamberlins Island looked very inviting
With the SW’lies gusting 15kts I was a tad apprehensive about what the open waters of the Firth would offer up when I got there.
Heading for Ruthe Passage and into the Firth of Thames
Once beyond the wind funnelling effect of the Strait, the SW winds steadied and the 24km crossing to Papa Aroha looked like a good option . Rang Shaz to say I would gap it and meet her over there in 4 hours. Unfamiliar with any geographical landmarks I relied on my compass heading until I was close enough to identify the higher Motuoruhi Island off Papa Aroha.
Made good time across the Firth arriving a little ahead of schedule with Shaz only just arriving at Papa Aroha and rushing down the beach with the kayak wheels.
Approaching Papa ArohaShaz by the boat ramp
Glad to get across the Firth today as the forecast Easterlies tomorrow may well have stalled my progress from Waiheke for another day.
Shaz ………… Left New Plymouth at 5.45am for Beachlands, Auckland. Brent launched off Beachlands at 11.45am.
Launching from Beachlands at high tide
He plans on going all the way to Coromandel provided everything goes well. If not he will stop somewhere on Waiheke Island. I head for Maraetai Bay and try to make contact with him, I can see him but he’s not answering on VHF. Decided to move onto another bay Magazine Bay (I’m not making this name up either) and stayed here for about an hour reading my book. Lovely spot! Then I drove along to Umupunia Beach and tried once again to make contact with Brent but no luck.
My intention was to go via Clevedon to Kawakawa Bay, but the road was closed due to slips, so had to go inland. Driving along I saw a sign that said ‘Hunua Falls, thought I’d go and have a look. Brent rang as I was pulling up! He said that everything was going well and he intended to go on the Papa Aroha (we have booked in there for Friday and Saturday night but not tonight).
Hunua Falls just a short walk from the car park, never heard of these falls before.
Hunua Falls
From here I headed for Thames, were I stopped and brought a pillow as we have left ours at home and went to Pak’N Save for some supplies.
Then back into the ute and headed for Papa Aroha, arriving at 6.20pm. Booking in a day early, thankfully they have a cabin for the night. Just opened the cabin and Brent rang me to see where I was, he arrived at the same time. Raced down to the beach in time to see him come in and take a few photos.
Approaching Papa Aroha
Settled in for the night, getting up early tomorrow to set up tent before Brent leaves.
Friday, 25 January, 2019
Papa Aroha to Port Charles
Distance 47.2 km Time 8.0 hr Average speed 5.9 km/hr
Not in a rush today as we had a tent to set up before hitting the water. Then we discovered the small matter of a mis-matched tent and fly being packed for the trip. After some ringing around we finally found a motel room for tonight in Coromandel town.
Slid down the pebble beach to a glassy sea
Another day with Secala laden, destined if possible for Port Charles, but a likely solo overnighter at Jackson Bay or Fletchers Bay as fresh Easterlies are still forecast which will come into play as I round Kaiiti Point at the top of the Coromandel peninsula. This would have the dual effect of slowing progress and making conditions very unpleasant as they opposed the east bound ebb tidal race around the top.
The paddle actually started with light tail winds and after 3 hours the ebb tide kicked in on cue to take us round the top. Hugged the beautiful coastline from Fantail Bay, close enough in places to easily chat with people ashore.
Approaching Kaiiti Point at the western edge of Jackson Bay, the tidal stream became very obvious and was now on high alert on this unfamiliar coast. Rounding this point felt like a rollercoaster, while dodging the eddies and the submerged rocks were my primary focus. No sign of the forecast winds yet as I crossed Jackson Bay towards Cape Colville.
Jackson Bay looking towards Cape ColvilleCape Colville
As I rounded the Cape with the tide, a gentle 10kt Easterly slowed me down but not enough to affect my plan to paddle on to Port Charles about an hour and a half paddle away. Rang Shaz and suggested that I still camp out alone at Port Charles so that she didn’t have to drive for over 2 hours return to pick me up and another 2 hours in the morning to drop me off.
Looking down to Port Charles
Approaching Port Charles I lined up and had a close look at a bay at the head of the peninsula.
Possible camp location?Not good enough ……
The beach was very rocky with no convenient flat areas to camp. With plenty of other landing options around, I had a look across the bay.
Landed at this rocky beach at low tide directly across the bay from the first beach I looked at Great camp spot and plenty of flat grassy areas above the high tide mark
Just above this rocky beach was an enticing grassy flat area. Perfect!
Bedroom and kitchen sorted!
Shaz ………….. Up at 6.30am, had a cup of tea and breakfast! Shop opens at 7am, so Brent went over to see if it was ok to set up our tent before he launches for the Day. He hopes to head for Port Charles today.
Brent came back from the camp shop and said that we had a different tent site to set up on. Got the tent and headed over to set up, better site view of the sea!
Put up tent, NOT! Brent brought the large tent and the fly for the smaller tent!! This is not going to work sorry, he headed back to the shop to see if there was anything else available for tonight, however nothing.
We rang around and found a motel in Coromandel town for the tonight. We packed up the ute and then Brent launched from Papa Aroha heading for Port Charles.
Heading north to top of Coromandel
I headed for Coromandel, checking out some of the bays along the way. I can’t book into the Tidewater motel until 1pm. So I looked around the shops, had coffee at the Wharf Cafe, went to the supermarket, checked out the Art Expo being held in town and read my book near the beach past the Coromandel wharf.
Checked out the information centre for advice regarding the roads to Port Charles to pick Brent up later on.
Brent rang at 3.20pm, he is most likely going to stay solo overnight in Port Charles, so no need for me to go over. He will ring me in the morning and tell me his plans for the day.
Lots of campers coming in for the night, not sure what’s on here in the Coromandel this weekend, accommodation is none existent. Trying to find accommodation for tomorrow night, just not happening! It’s Auckland anniversary weekend but I think there is more to it than that.
Brent rang at 5.50pm, from his campsite for the night. Sitting here in luxury watching All Blacks vs Black caps cricket.
Saturday, 26 January, 2019
Port Charles to Whangapoua
Distance 33.2 km Time 6.6 hr Average speed 5.1 km/hr
Great camp last night but not such a good sleep with the rising tide and low swell dumping on the steep boulder beach through the night. It was really rowdy. Checked the time at 0430 so figured I may as well get on the water for the sunrise.
View east just after launch
On the waters of Port Charles by 0600 with dawn approaching. Had suggested to Shaz that I would head for Opito Bay today.
Glad it was low water for launch as it would have been interesting at HW with a dumping surf on boulders. Got around the point to meet the sunrise.
The flooding tide is generally against me today. Early morning calm conditions remained until Te Anaputa Point when an offshore SW kicked in too strong for me to risk the 4 hour open water crossing to Opito Bay. Decided to hug the coast and phoned Shaz to say I would meet her at Kennedy Bay.
Feeling a bit tired I pulled into a beach to call Shaz and say I would be a little late getting to Kennedy Bay.
Opito Bay (top right) and Great Mercury Island (top center)
Turns out that Shaz had missed the Kennedy Bay turn off and ended up just around the corner from me at Tuateawa, only 15 minutes paddle away. Slid back down the steep stoney beach and found Shaz at a really nice spot for welcome lunch and coffee.
Coming into Tuateawa with Shaz guidanceComing in hot to the creek by the beachThat was fun!
After a lazy lunch and feeling lethargic I said to Shaz that I would only go as far as Whangapoua today. We unloaded Secala of all the camping gear and I slid down a stoney beach for the 2nd time today.
Motukopu Island (Whangapoua in the distance)Approaching Pungapunga Island just off Whangapoua beach
Made better speed in the light kayak. Caught a wave into the beach and broached right (my bad side!) and canned out to Shaz’s joy.
We couldn’t find any accomodation or even a tent site available closer than Waihi for the night. This was 2 hours drive away. This basically made the prospect of returning to put a fews more hours on the water tomorrow unrealistic. Unfortunately a premature end to this short trip but still happy with progress made.
Shaz ……….. Managed to have a little sleep in this morning 7am! Looked at my phone and see that Brent had an early start on the water today at 6.02am. After a shower I went for walk into Coromandel town for breakfast and coffee before heading back to pack up. Brent rang at 8.06am and said that he was heading for Kennedy Bay.
Going to meet him there and have lunch together. I put some lunch together and filled the thermos. I headed for Kennedy Bay, people at cafe said that it was just of 30 minute drive. Once I got to Kennedy Bay, the only road access that I could see was a private road only. I continued on thinking that the road went around to the other side of inlet, but then it turned inland. Never mind I continued on towards Tuateawa and turn off onto road towards a stony river, by Tuateawa Point.
Brent called on the cellphone to say that he had landed on a beach for a rest. Talking to him I explained were I was, turns out that I’m not that far from where he is! He launched again and joined me for lunch!
Coming through the rocks
While at lunch he said that he was tired and didn’t sleep well last night. He decided to go to Whangapoua, instead of going to Opito as he planned.
By the time I got to Whangapoua, Brent was already there! Couldn’t believe it, but when I think about it I had to drive back over the hill to Coromandel then turn off to Whitianga back over another hill to get there. No other road for me to use! Never mind, he waited until I was on the beach to come in. Just started to video him coming, when he was dumped on the beach Oops!!
I still haven’t managed to find anywhere to stay tonight. We might have to freedom camp in his little tent again on the beach somewhere. Brent decided not to go kayaking tomorrow, so while I drove he rang around looking to somewhere to stay the night. Annoying everything is booked out, ended up staying in Waihi.
This trips timing was solely geared around utilising the traditional leave period over Christmas and New Year to advance as far as I could down the coast towards Coromandel, weather permitting. Unsuitable weather did delay our departure from New Plymouth until Boxing Day when we made our way to set up base camp at Tutukaka. This would be our base for the next 6 nights.
After a day (27th Dec) in camp waiting out the persistent southerlies, we were fortunate to get on the water for eight of the following nine days and both of us were very happy to have advanced south of the Bridge at last, and put those travel woes through Auckland behind us.
THIS TRIP: Matauri Bay to Pohutakawa Bay 8 paddle days
Overall Distance 296.5 km Time 53.07 hrs Average Speed 5.6 km/hr
Friday, 28 December, 2018
Matauri Bay to Outu Bay
Distance 48.2 km Time 8.7 hr Average speed 5.5 km/hr
An early rise for the 2 hour commute to Matauri Bay. Encouraging to look down on calm conditions as we arrive.
1000hrs ……. the waiting is over ………… itching to get on the water now.
Rocky Point ahead and Cape Brett in the distance (top left)
Flat conditions for the launch with Secala laden for overnight camp. My intentions were to head for Deep Water Cove (just inside the Cape) for the night, where there was no road access.
Enjoyed light winds from NE all day. In the middle of the bay crossing I came across several large areas of discoloured water where dozens of petrels and JC (jesus christ) birds were eagerly feeding. I scooped out handfuls of these critters that appeared to be tiny krill. Largely transparent with clearly two eyes and overall no bigger than half a grain of rice.
A few of the jesus birds (White faced storm petrel) in the area. Cape Brett in the distance.
Approaching Cape Brett after 7 hours I decided to progress around the Cape and find a beach on the other side knowing there were options at Outu Bay, Te Toroa Bay or Whangamumu an hour or two paddle away.
Approaching Cape Brett and Percy IslandCape Brett lighthouse
Enjoyed a paddle through the “hole in the rock” with no other traffic
Percy Island’s “Hole in the Rock”
Ended up at the beautiful and sheltered Outu Bay being enjoyed by a couple of anchored boats. Paddled alongside and nattered to a women as she was rowing her dingy around the bay. Landed at the larger rocky beach, now in the evening shade, but there wasn’t any flat grassed areas to pitch a tent so headed across the bay to a small beach still in the evening sun, hoping to find a better place to camp.
Protected anchorage at Outu Bay. Camped on beach across the bay (middle left of picture)Sizing up my beach camp at about 1900hrsSetting up camp on rocks above the high water markThe next morning ….. showing the overnight high tide mark
The tent site options were no better here but could at least enjoy the evening in the last of the days sun. A dehydrated feed of spaghetti bog and a chat to Brett from the nearby anchored yacht. Glad to have a good sleeping mat between me and the rocks tonight.
Shaz ……………… Up early this morning, left camp at 7am for Matauri Bay just on a 2 hr drive. Oops, ended up by telling Brent to go longer way by 9 minutes! Never said as I had already told him to change direction once!! Oh well we got there in good time! Arrived at Matauri Bay, never went via motor camp this time not getting another $10 out of me! There is a large turning bay next to camp with a sign ‘No PARKING AT ALL TIMES’, needless to say we parked there unloaded and packed the kayak ready for Brent. Then I went and parked in the public car park and walked down to the beach to meet Brent!
He was on the water by 10am! I left there and drove back up the road and turned left onto road by shop/cafe. Great views from up here, but no where to stop and park for photos; all privately owned homes, but I tried from inside the Ute (photos not too bad)
Matauri Bay with Cavalli Islands behindCavalli Islands
Stopped at Kerikeri and went to supermarket, OMG what a difference a couple of weeks make! It’s so busy people and traffic everywhere. On my way back to Tutakaka I decided that I’d go back via the Bay of Islands and have some lunch at Paihia. I thought Kerikeri was busy but not a patch on Paihia; parking is a joke hard to find; people driving round and round the car park! But not me someone pulled out and I pulled in!! Some good person even paid for parking for 1hr for several people leaving tickets on top of pay machine! Good day, enough time for me to get some lunch at the Craft Bar & Kitchen on the waterfront.
At PaihiaPaihia jetty
I thought I’d drive down to Opua and have a look to see if Owen Glen’s private boat is still docked here. Chris told Brent that Sam was head cook on board, sure enough it was still there. Apparently it has engine problems or something, I asked a guy who was about to board if Sam Sharp was onboard. She was; so he went and told her that I was outside. She was busy preparing lunch for 8 people so we didn’t have long, just a quick hello and catch up! Owen Glen was onboard with his guests.
Shaz selfie with SamUbiquitous ……… Sam (niece) is Head Chef
Back at camp and the place is really filling up now! Brent messaged me at 7.06pm to say he had landed at Outu Bay for the night!
Saturday, 29 December, 2018
Outu Bay to Woolleys Bay
Distance 46.2 km Time 9.0 hr Average speed 5.1 km/hr
Surprisingly good sleep on the rocks despite waking twice during the night ……… and a peek outside to check on the rising tide!
Up at 5.30 to my usual “getaway” breakfast of muesli, banana and protein shake before decamping. On the water just after 7.
Beautiful calm clear morning. Couldn’t check my usual forecast apps without the internet however once settled on my way to Home Point the VHF nowcasting broadcast South 10kt dying away with NE in afternoon. However a southerly 8 – 10 persisted all day which accounted for a slower pace today.
Another beautiful coast though. Prominent Home Pt had a good surge around it and passed within a few meters of a couple of cruising sharks just off the point. One of them was rather large and thankfully paid no attention to me.
Approaching Home Point. Danger Rock and Rimariki Island in the distance.
Pasted within a few meters of some locals fishing from their boat but they weren’t at all friendly. The intimidating Danger Rock had a few fishing boats surrounding it.
Danger Rock
Although well hydrated I started to feel tired after 7 hours and passing Whananaki. After a bit of Christmas cake and a peanut slab I was all good to go again.
Titi Island just off Roimata Point Motutohe Island just before the rounding to Whananaki
Passing inside Elizabeth Reef and line of sight to Woolleys Bay, I tried to reach Shaz via VHF. Wasn’t sure which of the beaches to head for until I got a lot closer. Another 9 hour day but less miles covered.
Arrived Woolleys Bay and short trip back to Tutukaka camp for the night
What a beaut bay. Later found out that my brother used to give surf lessons here back in the day. A surf school still operates on this beach. Nice to have only an 8km drive return to Tutukaka camp.
Woolleys Bay
Shaz …………. It’s only 6.15am and all is quiet in the camp, why aren’t you sleeping Sharon! At 6.30am I went and had a shower, first in gets the warm shower and no queue’s! The sun is pouring into the tent, gorgeous morning! Did a little bit of washing today, then I went for a walk into Tutukaka! Walked around the marina, some flash boats here lots of money, lots! Got a coffee and sat down watching everyone boarding a boat for some tour.
Had a quiet time reading at camp while waiting for Brent to let me know where to pick him up. He rang and pick up at 3pm from Woolley Bay. Lots of swimmers and boaties here today having lots of fun in the water. One boat even drove down the road, onto the beach and straight into the water!
Brent got in around 4pm!
Routine of securing the deck before surf re-entry
Have a little picnic ready for him, as after 9 hrs paddling he might need it!
Picnic ready!
Back at camp, unpack, sit and relax for a bit before getting dinner ready. Boy they have packed the campers in tonight!! A couple of guys here with bloody drones, very annoying for a lot of campers!
Sunday, 30 December, 2018
Woolleys Bay to Ocean Beach
Distance 37.3 km Time 5.8 hr Average speed 6.4 km/hr
No rush this morning as theres only a 6 hr paddle planned to Bream Head and a small commute to launch at Woolleys Bay.
Another clear and calm day with easy launch. This is to good to be true. If the whole coast was like this everybody would be doing it.
Very enjoyable paddle close to bluffs and shoals around Tutukaka Head.
Tutukaka Head …….. (Taiharuru Head faintly in the background)
Cruised past Tutukaka harbour entrance dodging the flash boats and headed for Taiharuru point across Ngunguru Bay. Sent a txt to Shaz in case she was having a morning coffee by the marina.
Tutukaka Harbour Entrance
Rounding Tutukaka, the prominent and familiar Bream Head destination came into view.
A whisper of a northerly was welcome after yesterday which gradually increased to 8-10kts. So much easier paddling.
Approaching Ocean Beach …………. Prominent Bream Head on the left
Arrived at Ocean beach a little ahead of schedule. Surfers to the right and a patrolled swimming area on the left. Shaz guided me in expertly saying to head for “Rip” sign she was standing beside …….. while I was still 2k away! Caught a ride in at the bottom of a nice wave before bracing into the beach as it broke. Happy to stay in tact in front of a busy beach of on-lookers. Shaz was impressed.
Ocean Beach surf patrolled areaSurfers at north end of beachDefinitely a place to return
Only down side was the long drag of the Secala over soft sand to the car park. A place to return to for sure
Shaz …………….. Not much chance of sleep in this morning, with the birds singing and the cows mooing! Went for early shower (at 6.15am) to beat the rush, another lady had the same thought! Put my 50 cents in, NO hot water bloody cold shower! Thought maybe I had put money in wrong slot (for shower next to me), knocked on the door and asked if she had hot water, her reply was ‘NO it’s f…ing cold…’! Not a good start to the day!
Rowdy calf
Very, very noisy calf can’t find its mum! Drove Brent to Woolleys Bay and he was on the water by 8.30am. Beautiful morning, just a few people walking their dogs along the beach, couple of joggers and a kayak fisherman just come in with his catch of the day.
Easy launch at WoolleysWhale Bay (adjacent to Woolleys Bay)
Photo above taken from Whale Bay carpark, looking down on Brent between the trees!
Went for coffee and breakfast at Schnappers Rock cafe and this van was parked outside, what can I say!! Went back to camp, and Daniel rang! He couldn’t get over how great it looked here, the sun shining and they are freezing in Paris! Never mind they’ll be here in 10 days time! Did a bit of reading before heading to Ocean Beach at the Whangarei Heads. About an hours drive, passing through some lovely bays and a good view of Marsden Point across the harbour. Brent arrived about 2.30pm at Ocean Beach, very busy beach life guards on duty. Waves dumping on the beach, but Brent mastered it no problem.
Ocean Beach ………helmet for surf re-enrty ………….. wary of timing the kayak exit
Surf always looks different from the beach
Coffee at McLeods Bay on the way back to Tutakaka.
Weary but content after another enjoyable day on the water ……. and another Shaz picnic to look forward to.
Monday, 31 December, 2018
Ocean Beach to Langs Beach
Distance 24.0 km Time 4.2 hr Average speed 5.7 km/hr
A one hour ride back to Ocean beach this morning. Looks like another great day to be had on the water. Felt more at home launching through some surf and taking a couple over the bow today. Morning surfers bid me a safe trip.
Had spoken to Lynn Paterson about a possible arrival at Mangawhai. Although she hadn’t any first hand info she kindly got back to me with some good information from a kayaker friend she had who lived there. However, we later found out that there was a large New Years eve event being held there, so we decided to avoid this place. Lang’s Beach was the new destination.
Approaching Bream Head ………….. Taranga Island (Hen & Chicks Islands) on the left.
Rounded Bream Head to a calm Bream Bay until about a third of the way across when I saw an ominous layer of gray clouds rolling in from the west. Sure enough, within minutes, this brought in moderate SW head winds (12-15kts) and its associated chop. Turned Secala enough to put the chop off the bow for a smoother ride. Ground out the next couple of hours until the wind and chop abated as I closed in on the lee of Langs Beach. A bit of an unexpected grind today but glad to get across the open expanse of Bream Bay.
Clocked up my first 1000km on arrival on this leg in 27 paddle days at an average 6.13km/hr
Shaz …………. Later start today, leave camp at 8am, and arrive at Ocean Beach at 9am. By the time we pack the kayak and Brent’s drags it down to the beach; he finally gets on the water at 9.00am.
Plenty of surfers this morning, the day trippers are starting to turn up and claiming their spot on the beach.
I stopped at McLeods Bay for coffee at ‘The Deck’ cafe, with views across the bay!
McLeods Bay
I’m picking Brent up at Lang’s Beach today, as I have to go through Whangarei on the way I’ll do some shopping for Brent. He wants a flag for his kayak and some jandles as his broke last night! It’s a 40 minutes drive to Lang’s beach from Whangarei, heading south. Brent arrived at Lang’s beach about 2pm.
Lang’s beach ……. quick exit attempt
Well it’s New Years Eve, but I don’t think we will be up to see it in; too tired. We walked into Tutulaka an had a beer at the Fishing Club and then had pizza at the Marina Pizza Bar & Grill.
Tuesday, 01 January, 2019
Langs Beach to Goat Island
Distance 37.0 km Time 7.0 hr Average speed 5.3 km/hr
January 1st and we are not in any hurry today. Packing up camp and leaving Tutukaka is another nice marker as we continue our march down the coast. A little tired of the travelling involved with the base camp strategy, we decide to use the comfort of a motel in Wellsford for a couple of nights that is central for the next couple of days paddling.
Didn’t start out from Lang’s until 1145. With a late start and the prospect of afternoon SW’lies, wasn’t sure how much paddling I would get in today. Although I do have the ability to hug the beach all the way to Goat Island, decisions will be made on the water today with possible exit points at Mangawhai, Te Arai or Pakiri.
Rounded the shelter of Bream Tail into a steady SW 12-13kts. Asked Shaz to check in with me from Mangawhai
Sentinel Rock off Mangawhai
Coming in close to Sentinel Rock and watchful of the surf at the Mangawhai bar I advised Shaz that I would catch up with her at the next road access at Te Arai Point.
Sentinel Rock guarding the entrance to Mangawhai
There were only a few accessible exits on this stretch of coastline so Shaz followed me to each one in case I was ready to call it quits for the day.
Sizing up Te Arai Point
Hugging the coast all the way to Te Arai with the wind and chop ahead of the beam was a pain and with 3 more hours to Goat Island I seriously considered pulling in here.
Chatted with Shaz on a crowded beach and decided that I would continue to Goat Island. The slight change in direction to Goat Island (about 25 degrees) put the wind and chop (gusting 15kt) more on the beam which made a big difference to the paddling effort. Hopefully it would remain that way till I got to Goat Island.
Got to Goat tired but pleased with the decision to push through. Looking forward to a motel bed!
Shaz ……….. Pack up camp day today, leaving Tutulaka after 6 nights! Driving to Lang’s Beach for Brent to launch for Goat Island. Late launch today about 11.45pm, Brent wants to aim for Goat Island, but the wind is up! I’m going to drive to Mangawhai Heads to make contact on VHF and see how he is going!
Leaving Lang’s beach
OMG, Mangawhai is fair pumping, so many people parking is a joke! Again luck was on my side, drove straight into park as nice man said he was leaving, thank you! Had lunch at Sandbar cafe and had a little walk around. I was heading to the Mangawhai Surf club when Brent called on VHF to say he was just going past, no chance of park here, but I did see him going past from the ute! He said that he would come in at Te Arai Point as the wind was up! To get to Te Arai Point access is via a gravel road, so much traffic coming and going! The car parks are over flowing, cars parked along both sides of the road; one way traffic only – ridiculous!! I parked illegally and called Brent on VHF. I told him the situation, said I’d wait for a park! So many people in a small space; who would believe it. A surfer who comes here every day, said he’s never seen it this busy before! Patience eventually pays off, got a park in the main car park. Brent much closer, I told him the waves were big, great for the surfers though. Brent decided to go on to Goat Island after all! I went for a walk over towards the big rock as I saw a walk way over the other side! Saw a great water hole/ small for kids to swim safely! I went on over the hill and saw Brent come around the corner, called him and wished him luck!
Te Arai Point beach
What better place to get changed, but on top of rock at Te Arai beach!
Safe swimming beach/hole for kids!
Beach on other side of rock at Te Arai Point
Crazy, jumping off rock into tidal pool! Arrived at Goat Island around 6pm, contacted Brent on VHF, but couldn’t see him!
Goat Island beachGoat IslandSeagulls having happy time in pool of water
Landing on Goat Island beach around 6.50pm.
Lama sculptures made from tin, awesome!
Wednesday, 02 January, 2019
Goat Island to Waiwera
Distance 42.7 km Time 7.9 hr Average speed 5.4 km/hr
Arrived as Goat Island was just getting busy for the day and launched between swimming kids at about 9.30. Intending to reach Army or Shakespear Bay on the Whangaparaoa Peninsula today.
Calm around Cape Rodney and easy paddling to Tataku point. Just an easy SW 10 headwind so far.
Cape Rodney
Plenty of tidal stream turbulence at Tataku. LW was at 1115hrs so had timed well the flood assist though Kawau’s North channel. There was a steep “wind against tide” chop through the channel. Still managed a good speed. Needed to be watchful of all the boats. Glad to be sporting my new flag.
Made for Takangaroa Island for a rest and lunch and discuss next strategy with Shaz.
Takangaroa Island with Kawau Island in the background.
Still unsure if I could make Army bay against the headwind now gusting 15kts.
Continued to hug the shoreline down to Mahurangi Harbour in an attempt to get a better angle with the wind to maybe consider the 2 hour dash across Whangaparaoa Bay to Army Bay.
There seemed no respite in a strenthening wind blowing parallel with the shoreline. After battling to Big Bay and pulling into the beach, I called Shaz to meet me at Waiwera.
Big Bay just outside Mahurangi Harbour. Hard to imagine a descent wind around the point. Saddle Island behind the boats.
A hard day at the office today. Glad to pull into Waiwera. As I approached the beach a guy asked me to go and check on his mate who had swum out to check on a snagged longline. Found him and he was glad to have a rest holding onto Secala. After clearing the line and starting to tow him back to the beach his mate arrived in a boat to pick him up.
Shaz ……….. Brent let me sleep in this morning, so quiet no birds, no cows and no other campers!! Then we had breakfast at Caffe Cozy, couple of minutes walk away. Then we left for Goat Island so Brent can continue with this part of his adventure! Late start today, oh well!
Looking down at Goat Island from Cape Rodney Road
Enjoying a coffee at the Sawmill Cafe in Leigh, before heading back to Wellsford.
I think if we’re all honest, we have spent sometime on or in the ‘Funny Farm’!!
Traffic through Wellsford at 12.40 pm, guess holidays are over for some folk! Had a relaxing afternoon at the motel, waiting for Brent to call to say where he wanted to be picked up! He rang at 4.50pm and said that he would be coming into Waiwera beach in an hour. I said that I’d leave now as traffic was bad! It was 35 minutes drive normally! Got to Dome Valley lookout and traffic came to a complete stop. We crawled our way through Warkworth, 45 minutes, so needless to say I was going to be late! Got there finally, Brent was waiting for me to tell him where to come in!
Waiwera beach, looking across to Auckland.
Landing at Waiwera
Once we were all packed up and Brent changed we had dinner at Sugar Loaf Waiwera before we came back to motel
Thursday, 03 January, 2019
Waiwera to Gulf Harbour
Distance 21.5 km Time 3.66hr Average speed 5.9 km/hr
Checked out of the Wellsford motel and headed to Cafe for breakie. Ordered eggs bene ………. which was a mistake! It was smothered in hollandaise out of a squeeze bottle. Coffee was good though.
Launched from Waiwera at about 8.40 and had the 10-12kt SW just behind my stbd beam which gave me an assist and good speed till I got to Huaroa Point at the end of the Whangaparaoa Peninsula. Hoping to make it at least to Takapuna today if I could escape the worst of the forecast SW’lies.
Rounding the peninsula the SW intensified to 20+kts. Called Shaz to say I was going to bail at Gulf harbour.
Entrance to Gulf HarbourDefinitely looked out of place in here.
Had a look around Gulf Harbour Marina before exiting at the “poor mans” boat ramp.
Boat ramp at Gulf Harbour.
Short day today but can’t complain with weather offering up 7 straight paddle days. Forecast tomorrow not promising – SW 30kts.
Shaz ……….. Up early, packed and drove to Waiwera beach. Staying at Takapuna tonight. Brent looking like a clown face today with his zinc on his lips!
Clownface
Brent launched about 8.30am heading for Takapuna beach, so long as the conditions (wind) ok!
Heading for Whangaparaoa peninsula in the distance
Lovely drive around the coast to Orewa where I stopped for a while and looked around the shops on the beach front.
Orewa Beach
It’s been along time since I have been to Orewa, it changed a lot! It was always busy, but times that by 10! Parking in the town a nightmare! I got a takeaway coffee and muffin then found a picnic table down by beach.
Left Orewa and headed for Takapuna beach driving along SH25, then headed across to Browns Bay. Beaches very busy, so drove up to Waiake beach. Parked up and read my book for a while, until Brent contacted me an said it was hard work paddling today and he was going to come in at Gulf Harbour, on the Whangaparaoa Peninsula and he’d be there in 20 minutes. Bugger, I was 30 minutes away!never mind, back north I go! He was already up by the boat ramp when I arrived at 1pm.
Loaded up and headed for our motel in Takapuna.
Saturday, 05 January, 2019
Gulf Harbour to Pohutakawa Bay
Distance 39.6 km Time 6.8hr Average speed 5.8 km/hr
Forced off the water yesterday as the predicted SW 30kt for the Gulf played out. Today’s forecast was for early SW turning N during the day.
Earlier 0715 start today from Gulf Harbour boat ramp. Calm conditions in the gulf as I set off for the west side of Rangitoto Island. An 0800 HW meant I would be having an ebbing tide against me for the day. Made some enquires about going through Gardiners Gap on the east side of Rangitoto but the required high tide time didn’t suit today.
Kept a keen eye out for shipping that I intended to keep well away from. Didn’t need to worry about them so much as the speedy pilot boat that came unnecessarily close to me as I approached A buoy. Twats!
Some day trippers fishing off the stern of a large charter boat.
Shaz txt to say she was going over the bridge for the last time as I was rock hopping against a swift tide around the west side of Rangitoto. A real moment to savour for both of us.
Beacon marking shoaling at western extremity of Rangitoto
At the south end of Rangitoto I kept a keen eye on the channel that the Waiheke fast ferries were taking and gapped it for Brown’s Island when it was clear in both directions. Glad to be through these congested waters without any heart stopping moments.
Pulled into Brown’s Island for an early lunch (rice and tuna) and reassess the days destination. Had suggested to Shaz that I would meet her at Eastern Beach for lunch. The predicted northerly was now just kicking in so said to Shaz that I would save myself a detour and cut straight across to Pohutakawa Bay at Beachlands and that I would be there in about an hour and a half.
Brown’s Island with Rangitoto in the background.
The northerly increased to 12kt to assist me meeting my scheduled ETA with Shaz. This marks the end of this excursion north with some good miles made courtesy of some favourable weather. Can’t complain at getting eight out of a possible nine days on the water. Couldn’t happen on the west coast! We were both upbeat now about being south of the Bridge and some shorter return travel distances for a while at least. Next trip ……. across the Firth of Thames and down the Coromandel coast. Can’t wait!
Shaz ………… Early start today from Gulf Harbour! Brent set off around 7.15am for Eastern Beach.
Just off the boat ramp at Gulf Harbour
Looking across to the Northshore
Just because you’re on holiday, doesn’t mean you can’t do exercise on your bike (set up like an Exercycle).
Arrived at Eastern beach around 12.20pm, after doing a bit of shopping at Botany Downs. Brent contacted me a little after to say he had stopped on Brown Island for a snack and was going to go onto Beachlands rather than Eastern beach to come in! I went onto my sisters place waiting for Brent to contact me with a time to meet him. Got a text arriving at Beachlands at 2.45pm, and sure enough that’s when he arrived.
Arriving at Pohutakawa Bay
This is his last day in the water, until he has a long weekend or leave! We stayed at my sisters for the night before heading home the next day! This is his last day in the water, until he has a long weekend or leave!
A reasonably favourable forecast for this week was enough motivation to return northward to complete some unfinished business (North Cape) and make some impression down the East coast, at last, that would start to knock a dent in our lengthy road trip travel times.
It was bloody good to be able to look forward to the possibility of several paddle days unencumbered by marginal surf and weather conditions.
There was no real destination objective in mind for this week as I planned to enjoy some of the spectacular coastline and do some soft bait fishing along the way.
Again, we split the road trip over Monday and Tuesday (10th & 11th). All the way to Pakaraka on Monday to stay at Fredi and Brians lovely country home allowing an early arrival on Tuesday at Hihi Campground to set up our base for this trip.
Hihi Campground
I wanted to get to Tapotupotu Bay early that afternoon to make use of favourable wind and tide towards Te Huka Bay at the western end of Tom Bowling Bay ……….
THIS TRIP: Tapotupotu Bay to Matauri Bay 5 paddle days
Overall Distance 170.5km Time 30.5 Average Speed 5.6km/hr
Tuesday, 11 December, 2018
Tapotupotu Bay to Tom Bowling Bay
Distance 25.6 km Time 3.6 hr Average speed 7.1 km/hr
Arrived at beautiful Tapotupotu Bay at 1330 to conditions as forecast. A light SW breeze and low NE swell. Low sets were hitting the beach on an otherwise flat sea. Welcome contrast from west coast conditions.
Tapotupotu Beach – On arrival its always good to see the actual conditions match the forecastLoading up Secala for a solo overnighter at Tom Bowling Bay. Fishing rod on deck!Rounding the point
Secala, laden for a solo overnighter, ploughed through a couple of waves to ensure a wet start to this trip. After the pre-paddle routine and farewell to Shaz, I set off round the point and the tidal assist.
Took a moment to look back at the majestic Cape Reinga (3km astern) with a strong sense of relief and satisfaction that it was now firmly behind me.
Settled into my rhythm and was easily averaging 7.5km/hr. As Hooper Point approached at the east end of Spirit Bay, so did some turbulent water that focussed my attention. After setting up the softbait rig I went in close to the wash and on the first cast got a snapper. Magic!
Stoked at first snapper on SecalaNot big but still a reel buzz.
As I approached Te Huka Bay at the western end of Tom Bowling Bay I figured I had plenty of time to paddle another hour to the eastern end of the beach that would shorten the longer day to Rarawa tomorrow and have a better chance of timing the morning slack water at North Cape (LW 0700hrs) .
From a couple of kms out of Tom Bowling I could see an obvious structure like a hut at the end of the beach. Turned out to be some framework for a shelter.
Approaching east end of Tom Bowling BayArrived at low tide in low surfCamp set in great location. Evidence suggests horseback is the key means of access to this area. Fishing trawler in background.
Camp set to enjoy the sunset. Mug of tea and messaged Shaz on the Inreach.
Enjoying the sunset. Hoopers Point (Spirits Bay) is the more distant point.
After spag bog dinner I went for a cast off the rocks and caught a couple of kahawai. As the sun set the first sign of mozzies appeared. Hurridly packed up and got into the tent just in time as I swear, not one, but two million huge mozzies are clinging to the outside of the tent insect mesh. If I went outside now the mozzies would siphon all of my blood in about 5 seconds flat. I’m happily trapped in the tent till morning. Planning on a dawn start tomorrow to catch the slack tide at North Cape.
Shaz …………. Up early and on the road to Hihi Beach Motor camp and set up camp with Brent’s help! Then drive 2.25hrs to Tapotupatu Bay where Brent can start his kayak adventure again. He will be camping over night at Tom Bowling Bay. I will drive back to Hihi Beach for the night. On the way up we saw a bunch of police at the airstrip up from Waikiki Landing. Only noticed them as I stopped at the top of hill to get cellphone range, only one bar. I moved in quickly as it didn’t look good Brent holding his phone looking in their direction.
As I saw him off at Tapotupatu Bay they turned up there. Talked to one of them said ‘I like your uniform (police shirt, vest, stubbies and work boots). I said ‘my son would approve of his choice’, he laughed and said to damn hot to wear what those guys are wearing (full uniform or overalls).
Tonight there was a evening market in Mangonui, so went in for a look and walk around, then back to camp!
Wednesday, 12 December, 2018
Tom Bowling Bay to Rarawa Beach
Distance 45.0 km Time 8.0 hr Average speed 5.6 km/hr
An early rise (0430) to be ready for a dawn launch. Mozzies still covered my insect netting but none penetrated the barrier during the night thank god. Muesli, banana and protein shake for breakfast and after putting on the wet paddle gear, covered my remaining exposed skin with repellent.
Was fully packed up and launched through low surf by 0600hrs. Sent message via Inreach to Shaz and off with anticipation to North Cape where I intended to stop and climb up to the lighthouse.
Surville Cliffs
Under the grey gloom of early morning the spectacular Surville cliffs were intimidating and moody. The conditions allowed me to hug the cliffs (within 100m) as there was minimal surf backwash.
Stoked to finally see North Cape emerge and my timing for the low slack water was perfect.
North Cape Rounding Murimotu Island (North Cape)
A calm rounding of the Cape and landed on the south side of the tidal isthmus that links Murimotu Island with the mainland.
Rocky isthmus between Murimotu Island (behind) and the mainland.
Attempted to climb to the lighthouse but only got half way up as the bush whacking got too hard and time consuming. I was wary that Secala wasn’t far up the rocky beach on a rising tide.
A nod to Paul Caffyn who also landed here back in 1979View south of the Cape to Waikuku Beach (top left)Towards Surville Cliffs further west around the point
Re-launched an hour later to a brightening day and light winds. The tide will generally be against me all day but who cares on a great day with no deadlines.
A last look at North Cape before heading off on a 6 hour paddle south across Great Exhibition Bay
After an uneventful paddle down Great Exhibition Bay I finally made weak VHF contact with Shaz where I thought Rarawa beach was. Shaz couldn’t see me approaching and after a few minutes of confusion realised that I had set my GPS destination for the next beach north. I had another 3km to go. Soon enough Shaz could see me and guided me in. It looked an easy enough surf re-enty however my complacency caught me out as a larger than expected wave rose up behind me before I could set myself. My first re-entry on the East coast and I took an embarrassing dumping. An hour and a half drive back to civilisation at Hihi Camp.
Shaz …………. Spent the night at Hihi Beach camp on my own, bloody noisey tourists! In camper vans with sliding doors, open close on and on then slam the damn thing shut! Then 2.05am the volunteer fire service alarm goes off, seems like a long time at that hour if the morning. Got up about 7am, spent the morning at camp. Made some sandwiches for Brent, filled the thermos and left for Rarawa beach. Went into Mangonui about midday and had coffee on the waterfront, very nice! Then headed off to pick Brent up at Rarawa beach. So much road works up this way and so many police around this area. Arrived at beach no sign off Brent anywhere and couldn’t reach him on VHF either. A few tourists around, just walking along the beach! Probably wondering what this women was doing sitting on top of sand dune in her bright red chair, with a VHF radio, cellphone, binoculars, small emergency flashing torch thingy and a cup of coffee. I wasn’t able to see on the inReach tracking where he was, not sure if Brent has turned it on! Anyway I pushed the button that said location and it replied it could take up to 20minutes to 5 days to get a reply! Fortunately for me it was like 10 minutes and he was just up the coast around that corner. He finally got me on VHF, and realised that he had about another 3km to go, so 2pm pick up turned into 3pm! All good, at least he was safe. Which is more than I can say for him coming in! He was doing well, but then miss judged the waves and capsized! Oh well you can’t win them all!
Look behind !!Too late …….
So much for the East Coast ‘being a piece of cake compared to the West Coast’. Had his lunch and then headed back to Hihi.
Thursday, 13 December, 2018
Rarawa Beach to Maitai Bay
Distance 38.9 km Time 6.4 hr Average speed 6.1 km/hr
Another good forecast today for the stretch across Rangaunu Bay.
After the return journey to Rarawa beach, an easy launch but still managed to get a drenching through a couple of breaking waves. A much lighter kayak today with all my solo camping gear and extra water removed. Felt strong all the way across the Bay enjoying the company of several jesus christ (walk on water) birds or white faced storm petrels. Approaching Cape Karikari I became increasingly aware of several areas of shoaling and turbulent water to the point, when rounding the Cape, the washing machine effect became quite intimidating. Was much more difficult than North Cape and a salient reminder not to take any “Cape” too lightly.
Approaching Cape Karikari
Relieved to be around this corner and heading for the safety of Maitai Bay. What a beautiful bay. Was tiring over the last hour of this trip realising that I hadn’t hydrated enough during the day.
Shaz directed me to a boat ramp around Maitai Point and the easiest landing I’ve had since leaving New Plymouth.
Approaching Maitai Bay boat rampSupport crew marking the landing zone and directing shore procedures Maitai Bay for lunch and a swim Maitai Bay
A shorter 45 minute drive back to Hihi Camp today
Shaz …………. Left early for Rarawa beach so Brent could get a good start to the day. He is heading for Matai Bay, should take about 5 – 5.5 hrs. He launched at 8.25am, got out well, waves looked a little big but manageable!
Launching at Rarawa
Stopped at Mangonui on the way back at Waterfront Cafe for coffee and scone, best Cappuccino in the Far North so far! Awesome view across the bay and very relaxing.
Mangonui waterfront
Had a little walk around the township, a bit of window shopping, located the Information Centre and got a map for Matai Bay Area. Driving back saw an interesting little shop ‘Flax Bush’, had to stop and have a look. No window shopping here, made a purchase! Brought a lovely top, nice and cool for the summer! Then back to Hihi Beach camp, rest up and do some reading before heading to Matai Bay around 3pm. Made some sandwiches for Brent, filled the thermos and left for Matai Bay to pick Brent up around 1.30pm, a good 40-45 minute trip plus a couple of stops on the way. So hot, need an ice cream and got fresh water for Brent. What a beautiful bay, some campers have already arrived for there summer break and others look like they has just set up to claim there spot! Saw Brent come around the point towards Matai Bay, told him to go further around the other side to the boat ramp. Easier to get the kayak up to the ute. Brent arrived safely on the beach today, No big waves to dump him onto the beach, very very calm watered in the bay!
Matai BayMatai Bay boat ramp ……. landed here
Once we were loaded up we went up to camp ground area and had a late lunch and Brent went for a swim before heading back to Hihi.
Friday, 14 December, 2018
Maitai Bay to Tauranga Bay
Distance 45.0km Time 8.0hrs Average Speed 5.6km/hr
Just like the landing, the launch was like being on a lake. A false start however when I realised I had skinned my finger on a rock during the launch. A quick patch-up by the multi-skilled shore crew and I was away again through the “relentless” surf!
Setting up at Maitai
Great weather forecast again but aware that the general tidal flow will be against me most of the day.
Just out of Maitai Bay, Knuckle Point, at the north end of Doubtless Bay, had a good surge and back wash to stay clear of. Set my sights straight across Doubtless Bay towards Cone Rock while focussing more on better hydration today. Lost a peanut slab over the side as I was fumbling with gear on deck. Gutted!
While crossing the Doubtless bight a mollymawk repeatedly came skiing in to come close alongside for a nosey. Maybe he scored with my peanut slab and wanted more…..
Keen for another peanut slab! Can’t blame the bugger.Cone Rock with Stephensons Island in the centre background
After 7 hours in the saddle, felt much better today most likely due to better hydration. As I approached Taupo Bay and contacted Shaz I said I would push on to Tauranga Bay which was only about another hours paddle away. Drank nearly 5 litres today averaging 600ml per hour.
Approaching Tauranga BayTiming my run!My ride at Tauranga Bay
Shaz ……………. Up early and left camp for Matai Bay arriving just before 7.30am. Brent set by 7.56am at one of in the calmest conditions ever, ripples rather than waves! He was just sitting there, then he called and asked me to get something to dry his hand with as he was bleeding cut his finger on a shell or something while launching himself! A good cut bleeding like a bugger! Dried it off best as we could and applied gauze and taped tightly to stop bleeding! Then back into the kayak with a little push from me and he was off once again!
Stopped in at Mangonui on way back for breakfast and coffee at the Waterfront Cafe (French toast, bacon and blueberries). Arrived back at camp and have the place to myself, so quiet! Left at 1pm for Taupo Bay to pick up Brent, he should be arriving about 2.30 – 3pm. Packed the usual lunch, thermos etc. What a beautiful spot Taupo Bay is! Parked beside the only tree along the beach front for a bit of shade, got my chair out, made coffee and relaxed. Brent is taking longer than expected, never mind! People watching is a great past time, local family having lots of fun swimming, couple of German girls next to me smoking, swimming, sunbathing in next to nothing and then talking to family or friends back home on FaceTime! Another family arrived with surf board and paddle boards, old couple swimming with their boggie boards. When Brent finally made contact he had decided to go on to Tauranga Bay rather than here! Really, after waiting so patiently!! Packed up and headed for Tauranga Bay, GPS said 33km and 35 minutes to get there! WRONG! Ended up using my phone as GPS stop at the turn off, so ended up turning the wrong way. Wasted a good 15 minutes! By the time I got to Tauranga Bay, Brent was already sitting out in the bay wondering where I was!! Never mind, all good in the end!
On our way back we decided to go to Mangonui Fish Shop (supposed to be famous) for tea. The most expensive fish and chips I’ve ever had, but nice! Brent celebrated with a bottle of beer! A few more campers at Hihi tonight, with morpork talking, tui singing and one cackling “old hen” from the motorhome groups down the way!! That group has made more noise than any of the young folk that having been staying here!
Saturday, 15 December, 2018
Tauranga Bay to Matauri Bay
Distance 16km Time 4.5hrs Average Speed 3.6km/hr
Packed up at Hihi camp today and only planned the short paddle to Matauri Bay before checking in at Kerikeri for the night and heading home tomorrow. Planned to have a cruisey day fishing among the rocks.
Late start at Tauranga BayStephensons Island in the background
Enjoyed plenty of rock hopping for a change today on a beautiful coastline rather than the recent point to point grind. eg Great Exhibition Bay, Rangaunu Bay.
Trip took two hours longer than it would normally take as I lingered around the rocky coastline littered with reefs and rocks awash to throw a softbait into. No fish today though.
Arriving Matauri Bay
Nice way to finish this northern trip which ranks as the best so far for enjoyable relaxing paddling and satisfying for some progress made.
Shore crew in actionEnjoyable trip all round
Shaz ……………… Awake early this morning, can’t sleep on the one day Brent said I could as we weren’t leaving early this morning. Brent already up over at kitchen having his breakfast. Had my shower came back and started packing up, at least all the bedding. All packed up ready to lat 9.05am, going to Mangonui one last time for takeaway coffee! Then we head for Tauranga Bay for the last leg of trip this time. Brent is doing just a short paddle today, Matauri Bay about 3 hours for him although he said he may try a bit of fishing along the way.
What a beautiful drive to Matauri Bay, stopping at Te Ngaere reserve along the way. Driving on to Matauri Bay the views were stunning from on top of hill looking down onto Matauri Bay and across to the Cavalli Islands.
View of Matauri Bay and Cavalli Islands
Arriving in the Bay there was a large car park on my right for public us, however the access to/from the beach for Brent to bring his kayak up would be hard in the soft sand. I drove on until I came to the General Store. As I arrived at Matauri Bay the police pulled up behind me, I thought really are they following me around the Far North! But no, there was already an Ambulance in the camp ground, not sure what’s going on here! I went into the General Store outside the campground and asked if there was a boat ramp along the beach, they said yes it’s inside the camp ground. I explained what Brent was doing and could I please get access through the camp to pick him up, yes no problem but that will be $10 please! It took me by surprise a little, but was told they normally charge $20 for a day pass to the camp ground. No worries I paid and parked up under a tree right on the beach front with a picnic table right beside me, perfect! It turned out that a diver had been attacked by a Mako shark over behind Motukawaiti Island. Not life threatening thank goodness. The Fire Service turned up as well just as the Ambulance was leaving, not sure what they were going to do!
I spent the afternoon enjoying Matauri Bay, beautiful scenery and lots of campers arriving, fishing boats & jet skis coming and going, large group of ground people arrive with lots of kayaks and the boom box belting out the music.
Brent arrived about 2.40pm, coming in was easy. We had coffee and Christmas cake before loading up all his gear. Then we headed for Kerikeri for the night of comfort in a motel. We stayed at STAY Kerikeri motel; really nice people own it and they had a swimming pool which Brent made the most of! We had a meal at ‘The Pear Tree’ café down next to the Old Stone Store. Next to the café was ‘Eekie’ Bespoke Art, she works mainly with leather and had just opened up her business there.
