8. Go Firth Old Man – Pohutakawa Bay to Whangapoua

24 – 26 January, 2019

A quick long weekend opportunity now that we are within a few hours travel of our launch at Pohutakawa Bay. Weather forecasts and tides were favourable however a few calls would have to be made on the water and contingency for solo camping required.

THIS TRIP: Pohutakawa Bay to Whangapoua – 3 paddle days

Overall Distance 126.3 km Time 21.43 hrs Average Speed 5.9 km/hr


Thursday, 24 January, 2019

Pohutakawa Bay to Papa Aroha

Distance 45.9 km Time 6.8 hr Average speed 6.7 km/hr

On the road early this morning for the 4-5 hour road trip back to Beachlands to get as much time on the water as possible and take advantage of the afternoon tidal ebb flow east through the Tamaki Strait.

Loading up Secala prior to launch at Pohutakawa Bay
Tail wind …….

The intended destination today is Anita Bay on Waiheke for a solo camp prior to crossing the Firth of Thames tomorrow. However the forecast was for Easterlies tomorrow so said to Shaz that I would make the final decision when I reached the open waters of the Firth and assess a possible crossing to Papa Aroha today.

Secala is fully loaded with gear, food and water for two days if necessary. As I entered the Tamaki Strait the tide assist and following SW wind made the going easy.

The beaches of Chamberlins Island looked very inviting

With the SW’lies gusting 15kts I was a tad apprehensive about what the open waters of the Firth would offer up when I got there.

Heading for Ruthe Passage and into the Firth of Thames

Once beyond the wind funnelling effect of the Strait, the SW winds steadied and the 24km crossing to Papa Aroha looked like a good option . Rang Shaz to say I would gap it and meet her over there in 4 hours. Unfamiliar with any geographical landmarks I relied on my compass heading until I was close enough to identify the higher Motuoruhi Island off Papa Aroha.

Made good time across the Firth arriving a little ahead of schedule with Shaz only just arriving at Papa Aroha and rushing down the beach with the kayak wheels.

Approaching Papa Aroha
Shaz by the boat ramp

Glad to get across the Firth today as the forecast Easterlies tomorrow may well have stalled my progress from Waiheke for another day.


Shaz ………… Left New Plymouth at 5.45am for Beachlands, Auckland. Brent launched off Beachlands at 11.45am. 

Launching from Beachlands at high tide

He plans on going all the way to Coromandel provided everything goes well. If not he will stop somewhere on Waiheke Island. I head for Maraetai Bay and try to make contact with him, I can see him but he’s not answering on VHF. Decided to move onto another bay Magazine Bay (I’m not making this name up either) and stayed here for about an hour reading my book. Lovely spot! Then I drove along to Umupunia Beach and tried once again to make contact with Brent but no luck. 

My intention was to go via Clevedon to Kawakawa Bay, but the road was closed due to slips, so had to go inland. Driving along I saw a sign that said ‘Hunua Falls, thought I’d go and have a look. Brent rang as I was pulling up! He said that everything was going well and he intended to go on the Papa Aroha (we have booked in there for Friday and Saturday night but not tonight). 

Hunua Falls just a short walk from the car park, never heard of these falls before. 

Hunua Falls

From here I headed for Thames, were I stopped and brought a pillow as we have left ours at home and went to Pak’N Save for some supplies. 

Then back into the ute and headed for Papa Aroha, arriving at 6.20pm. Booking in a day early, thankfully they have a cabin for the night. Just opened the cabin and Brent rang me to see where I was, he arrived at the same time. Raced down to the beach in time to see him come in and take a few photos. 

Approaching Papa Aroha

Settled in for the night, getting up early tomorrow to set up tent before Brent leaves.


Friday, 25 January, 2019

Papa Aroha to Port Charles

Distance 47.2 km Time 8.0 hr Average speed 5.9 km/hr

Not in a rush today as we had a tent to set up before hitting the water. Then we discovered the small matter of a mis-matched tent and fly being packed for the trip. After some ringing around we finally found a motel room for tonight in Coromandel town.

Slid down the pebble beach to a glassy sea

Another day with Secala laden, destined if possible for Port Charles, but a likely solo overnighter at Jackson Bay or Fletchers Bay as fresh Easterlies are still forecast which will come into play as I round Kaiiti Point at the top of the Coromandel peninsula. This would have the dual effect of slowing progress and making conditions very unpleasant as they opposed the east bound ebb tidal race around the top.

The paddle actually started with light tail winds and after 3 hours the ebb tide kicked in on cue to take us round the top. Hugged the beautiful coastline from Fantail Bay, close enough in places to easily chat with people ashore.

Approaching Kaiiti Point at the western edge of Jackson Bay, the tidal stream became very obvious and was now on high alert on this unfamiliar coast. Rounding this point felt like a rollercoaster, while dodging the eddies and the submerged rocks were my primary focus. No sign of the forecast winds yet as I crossed Jackson Bay towards Cape Colville.

Jackson Bay looking towards Cape Colville
Cape Colville

As I rounded the Cape with the tide, a gentle 10kt Easterly slowed me down but not enough to affect my plan to paddle on to Port Charles about an hour and a half paddle away. Rang Shaz and suggested that I still camp out alone at Port Charles so that she didn’t have to drive for over 2 hours return to pick me up and another 2 hours in the morning to drop me off.

Looking down to Port Charles

Approaching Port Charles I lined up and had a close look at a bay at the head of the peninsula.

Possible camp location?
Not good enough ……

The beach was very rocky with no convenient flat areas to camp. With plenty of other landing options around, I had a look across the bay.

Landed at this rocky beach at low tide directly across the bay from the first beach I looked at

Great camp spot and plenty of flat grassy areas above the high tide mark

Just above this rocky beach was an enticing grassy flat area. Perfect!

Bedroom and kitchen sorted!

Shaz ………….. Up at 6.30am, had a cup of tea and breakfast! Shop opens at 7am, so Brent went over to see if it was ok to set up our tent before he launches for the Day. He hopes to head for Port Charles today.

Brent came back from the camp shop and said that we had a different tent site to set up on. Got the tent and headed over to set up, better site view of the sea!

Put up tent, NOT! Brent brought the large tent and the fly for the smaller tent!! This is not going to work sorry, he headed back to the shop to see if there was anything else available for tonight, however nothing. 

We rang around and found a motel in Coromandel town for the tonight. We packed up the ute and then Brent launched from Papa Aroha heading for Port Charles. 

Heading north to top of Coromandel

I headed for Coromandel, checking out some of the bays along the way. I can’t book into the Tidewater motel until 1pm. So I looked around the shops, had coffee at the Wharf Cafe, went to the supermarket, checked out the Art Expo being held in town and read my book near the beach past the Coromandel wharf.

Checked out the information centre for advice regarding the roads to Port Charles to pick Brent up later on. 

Brent rang at 3.20pm, he is most likely going to stay solo overnight in Port Charles, so no need for me to go over. He will ring me in the morning and tell me his plans for the day. 

Lots of campers coming in for the night, not sure what’s on here in the Coromandel this weekend, accommodation is none existent. Trying to find accommodation for tomorrow night, just not happening! It’s Auckland anniversary weekend but I think there is more to it than that.

Brent rang at 5.50pm, from his campsite for the night. Sitting here in luxury watching All Blacks vs Black caps cricket. 


Saturday, 26 January, 2019

Port Charles to Whangapoua

Distance 33.2 km Time 6.6 hr Average speed 5.1 km/hr

Great camp last night but not such a good sleep with the rising tide and low swell dumping on the steep boulder beach through the night. It was really rowdy.
Checked the time at 0430 so figured I may as well get on the water for the sunrise.

View east just after launch

On the waters of Port Charles by 0600 with dawn approaching. Had suggested to Shaz that I would head for Opito Bay today.

Glad it was low water for launch as it would have been interesting at HW with a dumping surf on boulders. Got around the point to meet the sunrise.

The flooding tide is generally against me today. Early morning calm conditions remained until Te Anaputa Point when an offshore SW kicked in too strong for me to risk the 4 hour open water crossing to Opito Bay. Decided to hug the coast and phoned Shaz to say I would meet her at Kennedy Bay.

Feeling a bit tired I pulled into a beach to call Shaz and say I would be a little late getting to Kennedy Bay.

Opito Bay (top right) and Great Mercury Island (top center)

Turns out that Shaz had missed the Kennedy Bay turn off and ended up just around the corner from me at Tuateawa, only 15 minutes paddle away.
Slid back down the steep stoney beach and found Shaz at a really nice spot for welcome lunch and coffee.

Coming into Tuateawa with Shaz guidance
Coming in hot to the creek by the beach
That was fun!

After a lazy lunch and feeling lethargic I said to Shaz that I would only go as far as Whangapoua today. We unloaded Secala of all the camping gear and I slid down a stoney beach for the 2nd time today.

Motukopu Island (Whangapoua in the distance)
Approaching Pungapunga Island just off Whangapoua beach

Made better speed in the light kayak. Caught a wave into the beach and broached right (my bad side!) and canned out to Shaz’s joy.

We couldn’t find any accomodation or even a tent site available closer than Waihi for the night. This was 2 hours drive away. This basically made the prospect of returning to put a fews more hours on the water tomorrow unrealistic. Unfortunately a premature end to this short trip but still happy with progress made.


Shaz ……….. Managed to have a little sleep in this morning 7am! Looked at my phone and see that Brent had an early start on the water today at 6.02am. After a shower I went for walk into Coromandel town for breakfast and coffee before heading back to pack up. Brent rang at 8.06am and said that he was heading for Kennedy Bay. 

Going to meet him there and have lunch together. I put some lunch together and filled the thermos. I headed for Kennedy Bay, people at cafe said that it was just of 30 minute drive. Once I got to Kennedy Bay, the only road access that I could see was a private road only. I continued on thinking that the road went around to the other side of inlet, but then it turned inland. Never mind I continued on towards Tuateawa and turn off onto road towards a stony river, by Tuateawa Point. 

Brent called on the cellphone to say that he had landed on a beach for a rest. Talking to him I explained were I was, turns out that I’m not that far from where he is! He launched again and joined me for lunch!

Coming through the rocks

While at lunch he said that he was tired and didn’t sleep well last night. He decided to go to Whangapoua, instead of going to Opito as he planned. 

By the time I got to Whangapoua, Brent was already there! Couldn’t believe it, but when I think about it I had to drive back over the hill to Coromandel then turn off to Whitianga back over another hill to get there. No other road for me to use! Never mind, he waited until I was on the beach to come in. Just started to video him coming, when he was dumped on the beach Oops!! 

I still haven’t managed to find anywhere to stay tonight. We might have to freedom camp in his little tent again on the beach somewhere. Brent decided not to go kayaking tomorrow, so while I drove he rang around looking to somewhere to stay the night. Annoying everything is booked out, ended up staying in Waihi.


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