17 & 18 January 2020
Shaz …..
17 Jan ……….Left NP around 4.25pm heading for Te Awaiti. Decided to spend the night at POP property in Greytown arriving about 9.30pm, great spot plenty of room and $8 for the night.
18 Jan ……….Brent up early for his usual morning routine before kayaking; tea, toast with peanut butter, followed by coffee and muesli with banana.
On the road by 6.35am heading for Sandy Bay near Te Awaiti, to continue Secala’s adventure. Once again along the gravel road (judder bar) towards Tora!
Upon arrival conditions didn’t look to good, a bit choppy out there! Brent went out to do his recon of the situation! Not good, oh dear!
After a while we decided to go to Te Awaiti camp and park up. Along the road we could see something was going on up ahead, as there were cars and campers everywhere! As we got closer we saw a young guy walking along the road and he said that it was a music festival. Who knew in the middle of nowhere! Turns out to be Tora Bombora festival weekend.
As we got nearer we were stopped by local security (local guy collecting tickets) and asked if we were here for the festival, we said know that we were going onto the camp ground up the road. He explained about the festival, it was a group of family and friends that organise this festival around 600 people here! It goes for 2 nights until around midnight, know one to annoy here and no noise control! It was tent city, camper vans and motorhomes everywhere!
He said that if we wanted to come back and check it out later he’d let us in for free as we didn’t seem like the sort of people that would cause and trouble! We drove on and pulled over to get a couple of photos, a local was out for his morning run and said that he didn’t even know anything about it! Funny!
Drove onto Te Awaiti camp ground not many people here this time! Wouldn’t you know it, it starts to rain bugger! Doesn’t look like there will be much kayaking going on this trip, so hopefully we’ll be home tomorrow in time for our daughter birthday dinner!
24 – 26 January, 2020
Our 2nd attempt to launch from Sandy Bay and round Cape Palliser. We have three days at our disposal this time. Last weekend we travelled to Sandy Bay to find the conditions different to forecast and very marginal on the only possible paddle day that weekend. Wasn’t happy to take the risk around Palliser then; however conditions looked good this time for a possible push as far as Wellington.
THIS TRIP: Sandy Bay to Wellington – 3 paddle days
Overall Distance: 84.4km Time: 14.75hrs Ave Speed: 5.7km/hr
Friday, 24 January, 2020
Sandy Bay to Ngawi
Arrived early at Sandy Bay from Eketahuna Campground where we stayed the night. This time we were met by calm conditions but a bit more of an easterly swell running over the reef and entrance to Sandy Bay. Was planning to launch from the more exposed beach outside of the protected Sandy Bay boat habour but changed my mind when I saw sets regularly breaking over the nearby protective reefs. I still had to patiently time my sprint through the boat harbour gap in the reef between the swell sets. No boats launching so far this morning. On the water by just after 0800 and keenly anticipating a rounding of Cape Palliser today. Was confident enough in todays forecast not to load up my solo overnight gear. White Rock could be a fall back landing if needed. Or return to Tora. Was also good for the timing of the westerly ebb flow around the Cape when I would arrive there in about 4 hours.
Tora Farm …… about an hours paddle from Sandy Bay
Would have very much liked a closer look and camp at White Rock. Maybe another day.
Excited to see Palliser lighthouse over Cod Rocks. Perfect conditions to enjoy such big country.
Holy crap!! Shaz called up on VHF from the lighthouse at the top of a looong set of steps. Feeling pretty chuffed rounding this Cape. One of the major milestones of the North Island.
Headed straight for Te Kawakawa Rocks, not sure if I’ll find a short cut gap through the reef. I see Shaz driving our camper back along the coast road towards Ngawi. Plenty of driving for her today.
Against my better judgment I did cut through Te Kawakawa Rocks. The easterly surge offered up a little adrenalin swerving through the shoals to the lee side of reef.
Ngawi turned out to be closer around Te Kawakawa Point than I thought. It just suddenly appeared! A pleasant change to the norm where destinations tend to be further away that expected. Great end of paddle coming into beautiful Ngawi.
Shaz …….
Friday 24 January 2020
Up early and headed off for Te Awaiti so Brent can get an early start. Arrived around 7.30am and conditions look good at this stage! Brent was all ready and on the water by 8.11am.
I cleaned up the dishes from breakfast and headed down the road and parked up watching Brent until he disappeared out of my sight! Then I headed off for Martinborough to get some bananas! Arrived in Martinborough around 10.15am, got the bananas and had a coffee at one of the many cafes. Everyone was very busy this morning as there was an American car rally. Finished my coffee and headed to Ngawi and Cape Palliser.
I drove onto Cape Palliser to see if I could make contact with Brent on the VHF. On an impulse I decided to walk up to the lighthouse! OMG didn’t look so far until you climb the 252 steps up! Great views, so worth it even know I paid the price with back playing up again.
Could see Brent getting closer to the Cape, so contacted him on the VHF and told him where I was! I think he was surprised and pleased at the same time! Got some nice photos along the coast and Brent in the background. Brent said that he would be another 30 minutes before getting into Ngwai, so go ahead and find a place to stay the night!
Once back down the steps, I drove back to Ngwai and found a spot right on the beach!
Saturday, 25 January, 2020
Ngawi to Te Humenga Point
Had intended to do this small section yesterday but by the time we had spread out in the camper and had lunch at the Ngawi campground we didn’t feel like packing up or giving up our great parking spot. Although Palliser Bay is forecast to be calm tomorrow, there are strong northerlies due in Wellington. Decided to have a lazy day today and do this small section in preparation for the push for Wellington tomorrow, when the northerlies are forecast to be not as strong and arrive later in the day. Departing from Te Humenga Point instead of Ngawi saves about an hour on the paddle across Palliser Bay.
No rush this morning. Cooked breakfast and casual launch into a calm Bay.
While Shaz and I were trying to co-ordinate a landing spot on the VHF, a cray boat over hearing us, cruised up to me and offered up some landing suggestions. Always keen on local knowledge, I asked about the likely conditions in the middle of the Bay. When they asked where I had come from and what I intended to do, they simply shook their heads while offering up some expletives under their breath. Mostly referring to my sanity.
Their stories supported others I had heard of the area. “You’re exposed out there from every direction!”. “If a NW hits you through Windy Point, you’re f………..toast”. “You’d be crazy to leave shore in any kind of northerly in the Bay”.
After the advice and a chat, the skipper handed over a couple of crays. Probably thinking it could be my last supper!! Awesome.
Shaz found a good landing spot with easy beach access just round the corner from Te Humenga Point.
Spent the rest of the day having a look around the area including climbing up Palliser Lighthouse, checking out the seal colony and getting some paua off Ngawi. Only needed to be 20m off the beach in chest deep water to get a good feed.
The fisherman off the “Joker” saw us on the roadside as he drove past and stopped for a another chat. Intrigued by what I was doing and my intended paddle across the Bay. Wished me luck and offered to come pick me up if I found it too tough!
Enjoyed a great dinner of paua and crayfish, before setting Secala up for tomorrows pre-dawn launch. I was planning on a 0430 launch (an hour before first light) to get across the Bay in the best conditions ……….; and into Wellington well before the predicted northerly.
Shaz …….
Saturday 25 January 2020
A little sleep in today, weather report says wind strong around into Wellington. Had a cooked breakfast (made by Brent) and a nice coffee. Then he headed off down the coast about an hours paddle from Ngawi, where we camped last night.
He set off and I drove down the road to see where he could come ashore. He wanted me to check out Te Humenga Point. Found a spot opposite Palliser Bay Station where boats obviously Launch from. Looked a good spot to me! So I turned around, drove back up the road and saw Brent and called him on VHF radio! Told him where I thought was a good idea he said he’d get back to me! As I was watching him I saw a boat pull up beside him and they were talking for a while! Once they left he called on the cellphone and said they told him I could go down to that point through the gate no problem! So I headed down the road turned in the gate an drove down almost to the end but stopped before the turning area as it was just soft sand! There was no way I was driving on that and getting stuck, so made the decision to back out the long drive as I couldn’t turn around! Hoping the whole way that know one was going to come in behind me, thankfully they didn’t! Called Brent and told him, he said to go on where I have suggested earlier.
Brent landed on the beach avoiding the rocks! Local fishing man was just about to launch his boat straight off the beach. Brent offered to help him and asked if we would like a crayfish as he was going to check his pots. Brent said thanks but the fisherman on the boat I saw him talking too gave him 2 crayfish, yummy! He backed his 4wheel motorbike and hooked the boat and away he went! Another family arrived and were going diving for paua, when he came in he said that it wasn’t a good spot for paua.
Brent came in and parked up thinking about what we were going to do for the day. Had a cup of tea then decided to pack up all the gear, then went for a drive towards Ngwai and see if we could find a good spot for paua. The area that we through we could go in we couldn’t access. We drove on towards Cape Palliser stopping at the seal colony.
We parked up and went to have a look before heading back to Ngwai as Brent wants to catch the low tide as he was going diving for paua.
We got to Ngwai and Brent went straight of the beach in front of the camping area. While he went diving, I made some scones for our late lunch. While I was doing this some guys turned up and were getting ready to go spare fishing and diving for paua. Behind their Ute they were towing trailer with a 4 wheel motorbike on it! On top of the bike tied on the front was two deer heads, one was a 10 spike and the other was a 11 spike. Then the Ministry of Fisheries turned up and checked peoples catch for the day.
Once Brent got his 10 paua, he came back and had some lunch. Then he got the paua ready and put into the fridge.
Once he got changed we headed back towards Cape Palliser as Brent wants to walk up to the lighthouse. I waited in the camper while Brent went up as I wasn’t going to do that again, once was enough for me!
From there we went back to our camp site for the night opposite Palliser Bay Station.
Set up camp and got our dinner ready, Brent cooked the crayfish on the BBQ and I cooked some corn and veges a glass of wine!
It is a beautiful evening and got some awesome photos!
Sunday, 26 January, 2020
Te Humenga Point to Wellington
My original planning for Palliser Bay was to follow the shoreline and be prepared for an overnight camp at Corner Creek (NW corner of Palliser Bay) if necessary. Crossing the Bay from Te Humenga Point takes you 12km from land in every direction. The furthest I have been offshore on this adventure. Conditions needed to be perfect.
The forecasts from every source were consistent. Calm in the Bay all day with a northerly rising to 20kt in Wellington later in the afternoon. With an early start I was planning to be in Wellington well before then. Crossing the Bay would take 4 hours, then I will have the safety of the shore again.
Set myself for an 0330 rise but sleep was elusive. The open skylight in the camper van was rattling on its hinges in the wind during the night. It’s meant to be calm! Not encouraging. Decided then not to risk a launch until first light so that I could get a better handle on conditions.
Eventually got up when there seemed no point in lying in bed any more. After a quick brekkie, I fully preparing under headlamp and waited for first light. Could make out the sillouette of Turakirae Head in the distance. There is a light easterly rolling down off the hills behind. Eased Secala into a the flat Bay with the breeze behind me.
Sunrise revealed a beautifully calm Bay. With the light tail wind I was making good time towards Turakirae Head. Within an hour of the Head a strong current pushed me into the Bay; and then a stronger counter-current thrust me seaward as I approached the rocks off the Head.
Once across the Bay, the tidal flow will be in my favour around the Wellington entrance. My aim is to get across the harbour to Owhiro Bay today.
After a perfect trip across Palliser Bay a northerly breeze picks up towards Baring Head. White caps can be seen in the distance through the harbour entrance. Rounded Baring Head close in through the rocks and came ashore so I could txt Shaz to say I would come land somewhere across the harbour entrance, instead of going to Owhiro Bay.
Battled to Pencarrow Head over the next 1.5hrs as the northerly increased to 20kts. Tucked into the shore for a bit of relief before landing again in the lee of Pencarrow to txt Shaz again. Aiming to land across the harbour at Reef Bay.
Relaunched and weaved through the rocks around Pencarrow and made some ground to windward into the harbour. Saw the Interislander ferry approaching Wellington harbour so continued following the shoreline until it passed before taking on the channel. Paddling at a 45 degree angle upwind of my destination and constantly checking a transit bearing to ensure I wasn’t loosing too much ground out the harbour. A good amount of chop through the channel with wind against tide conditions. Once inside Barrett Reef the chop eased right off and could make straight for Reef Bay. I could make out the reception party on the beach. Landed to a great reception by Dale (brother), Judy, Jono and Souvaly. Our biggest reception on the trip so far.
Shaz …….
Sunday 26 January 2020
Brent was up early, very early (around 4.30am) to make the most of the good conditions and who knows what waits for him around the corner into Wellington.
I was woken up around 7am when a fisherman turned up to launch his boat. Oh well never mind, time to get moving anyway!
I headed off for Owhiro Bay, Wellington, its a 2 hour drive! Programmed my GPS on phone and off I went, nice day and not to much traffic on the road. As I arrived at Owhiro bay I checked inReach to see where Brent was and it looks like he has come ashore over the other side somewhere near Baring Head. Then he texted to say go to Dale’s (Brent’s brother) place and to track him on inReach, as he doesn’t think he will make it to Owhiro Bay as the wind is strong. I went to Dale and Judy’s had a coffee, before we went for a walk around the bay from Seatoun to see if we could see him. He then texted again to say he was going to try and cross the harbour to Palmer Bay or Reef Bay.
We walked back to Dale and Judy’s place, and I followed them to Palmer Bay. The parking wasn’t that easy for a big camper van, but managed! The beach access was very rocky and not suitable for Brent to come in here. We suggested that he come in at Eve Bay not so rocky and a pebbly beach however! Our nephew Jonathon and his family turned up to see Brent come in also. So good having family seeing Brent coming in, special for him to see that people care about what he’s doing!
In the distance we could see him coming across the harbour, the wind is strong it must be such a battle for him.
He landed on the beach at 1.48pm, with the biggest cheer from his supporters on the beach!
After catching up and taking photos, then packing the kayak and gear away we headed home to Taranaki.