6 – 26 February, 2020
These paddle days occurred on two separate trips as we avoided unfavourable conditions getting through Cooks Strait. The first attempt to get round Cape Terawhiti was postponed at the last minute due to the changing conditions.
THIS TRIP: Reef Bay to Pukerua Bay – 3 paddle days
Overall Distance: 71.7km Time: 11.8hrs Ave Speed: 6.1km/hr
6th February, 2020
Reef Bay to Owhiro Bay, Wellington
Travelled to Wellington this weekend with the express aim of getting through Cooks Strait to Makara or Titahi Bay depending on tide and weather conditions. The timing of the ebb northwest flowing tidal stream known as the “Karori Rip” is key; while avoiding opposing weather tide (northerly wind) conditions. This tidal streams most notorious section is through the shoaling areas between Sinclair Head and Cape Terawhiti and peak flows occur where the tidal range is greatest (around full and new moon). Strong eddies and overfalls are common. The full moon is in 3 days. Keen to have conditions just right for this narly and unfamiliar section of coast.
But first I wanted to complete the short hop around the Wellington Bays to Owhiro Bay that is at the road end, near Red Rocks. This would reduce the paddle through the Strait by about an hour.
We arrived at Reef Bay from New Plymouth around lunchtime and were met by Dale, Jude, Suzie and the kids for the launch. A northerly was blowing (when doesn’t it blow in Wellington!) so planned on hugging the shore, knowing that there would be little shelter across the airport at Lyall Bay.
Cheers and waves from the family as I launched into Reef Bay. Unusually I felt a bit wobbly in Secala for the first half hour. May have been a hangover from some white water paddling last weekend.
Rounded Moa Point into Lyall Bay and beat into the gusty northerly until happy to cross the Bay to a boat ramp where I took a breather before heading across Houghton and Island Bay (inside Taputeranga Island) and on to Owhiro Bay.
Shaz arrives at the Red Rocks carpark, where we will stay the night; and says there’s a suitable landing beach landing just around the car park. Perfect!
The beach is a little steep and stoney at low tide but fine in the 1.2m southerly swell.
Casual start to the day as my launch time is to coincide with the Wellington high tide at 1300hrs. It’s only about a 5 hour paddle to Makara. Yesterdays weather forecast suggested light wind conditions today until a 20kt northerly comes in later tonight. This forecast changed during the morning, predicting the northerly would arrive earlier in the day than I had hoped. Chose to abort the paddle to Makara and make our way home.
Shaz ……
Thursday 6 February 2020
Relaxing start to the day, stayed in Whanganui over night. Brent said there was no hurry to get to Wellington last night. Arrived at Eve Bay, Wellington around 11.15am. We message Dale on the way and he is going to come and see Brent off this morning!
Started to unload the kayak and gear, when Dale and Judy arrived. And not far behind them was Suzie and two of her boys Ethan and Sam. Great to see her again the last time was in France!
Brent was on the water by 12.05pm, with a fan (6 of us) farewell from the shoreline!
Brent said that he was only going as far as Owhiro Bay today, as the wind was up! Normally only an hours paddle in good conditions, so more like 2 hours today!
Dale said that they will catch up with us later on at Owhiro Bay for a drink! I left them and drove to Owhiro Bay to get a park for the night, but every park was full with day visitors! So I headed back down the road to the Beach House & Kiosk cafe to get a coffee. It was there that I checked the inReach tracker to see what Brent’s progress was. It looks like he has come ashore in Lyall Bay. I rang him, but no answer so decided to drive back towards Lyall Bay to see if I could find him. Rang again and tried the VHF again but no reply, so thought I’ll wait a few more minutes to check the inReach again. It had updated this time and he was around by Island Bay, so back I went!
I saw him as I drove along the road, very close to the shore by the rocks! I called him on the VHF and he said that he was going back around the rocks toward Owhiro Bay. He told me to go and find a place to park up for the night, hope I have better luck this time. Nope ….. so drove around and found a park (non camping park only), Brent called on the VHF wanting to know the best place to come in. I told him to come in around the corner into the next little bay near the camping area. I decided to drive around there again to see if there were any parks yet, NO! So I decided to wait patiently and one came up near the end of the parking lot close to where Brent came in! I missed his landing as I’m trying to park, turns out he’s there guiding me into the park while I’m reversing.
Dale messaged and said that they would be coming over for a beer sometime later on after 4.30pm. People watching is a great pass time …… when you have time on your hands. That afternoon we saw some interesting people dressed up in medieval costume and another person dressed like someone from the movie Avatar!
There was even a wedding party having photos taken looking out over the ocean.
Had a great time catching up with Dale and Judy over a few drinks and snacks! Hopefully the weather will be better tomorrow so Brent can get around and through Cook Strait.
Lovely evening tonight, got a few photos
Friday 7 February 2020
Woke up this morning and the weather conditions are no better. So we are going to head towards home. Brent would like to check out some beach’s along the way for landing spots.
Spending the night at Foxton, staying at the local fishing club in the car park.
Locals told me there was a seal visiting and resting on the rocks by the river bank.
We went to had a drink and meal at the fishing club, not bad and good price!
25th February, 2020
Owhiro Bay to Makara
The Cooks Strait weather forecast and tidal conditions aligned again for this midweek dash down to Wellington. Left New Plymouth yesterday (Monday) afternoon hoping to get a camper van spot at Owhiro Bay. Unfortunately all the allocated freedom parking spots were taken. We followed the road back around the Bays until we found a parkup spot in Lyall Bay.
After a quiet night we were up early to get back to Owhiro Bay and be ready to launch at dawn. The HW at Wellington was at 0700hrs; from which time the tidal stream would flow northwest around Cape Terawhiti. A little earlier at Sinclair Head.
Got Secala off the roof rack in the dark and completed setup by headlamp while the rest of the campervaners were asleep.
Launched at 0620 when light enough to dodge the rocks. Arrived at Sinclair Head half an hour later after passing clearly evident Red Rocks. The westward tidal flow had started at Sinclair Head. Considered, for a moment, cutting through the rocks in the calm conditions until a sizeable surge broke through the gap turning into a tumbling mess. Took the outside route!
Clearly a good flow in play (two days after the New Moon) as I steered inside Thoms Rock directly towards the prominent Karori Rock. Within the “Karori Rip” area now, an emerging tidal race was evident within the shoaling overfall area inside Thoms Rock. Constant scanning ahead to have enough time to skirt around the worst of the turbulence.
GPS would later show that my speed peaked at 12km/hr several times through this area. The calm looking surface fails to convey the significant turbulence in the area. Came in close for a good look at Karori Rock. This light hasn’t been operating for about 25 years, but the remains of the treacherous access is still evident. Hard buggers who built and maintained this, back in the day.
The next significant tidal race was from the north end of Oteranga Bay to Cape Terawhiti. Hugged the shore towards Ohau Point.
The high water at Makara is 4 hours behind Wellington and still flooding. From Ohau Point the influence of this tidal stream dominated to slow me down for the last 2 hours to Makara.
For some unknown reason I had a heavy prolonged bout of the hiccups during this section making life unpleasant. Was very glad to see Makara and get out of Secala for a stretch. It was only lunchtime, but did not feel like getting back on the water to finish the short 3 hour paddle to Titahi Bay.
Happily decided to hang out at Makara and watch (and assist) all the activities at the boat ramp and take a walk along the Makara walkway. The last time Shaz and I were at Makara, a few years ago, was the moment I brought up my thoughts to kayak around NZ ……… and that I wanted her to be my support team.
Gazed several times across the Strait towards The Brothers, anticipating my next big challenge – a Cooks Strait crossing.
Shaz ………… 25 February 2020
Awake early this morning, 4.40am but got up at 5am! Spent the night at a spot looking across Lyall Bay towards the airport, as there were no spaces at Owhiro Bay!
We were on the road by 5.17am towards Owhiro Bay so Brent can launch ASAP! Got to Owhiro Bay, Brent started unloading the kayak and his gear while I got some food ready for him. So cold and dark this morning, 2 layers of clothes to keep warm! I helped Brent down to the shore line with his gear and then he was ready to go. Brent was on the water by 6.17am, just started to get a bit lighter now.
He said I’ll see about 10am at Makara Beach. I took some photos of Brent launching but it was too dark and the quality wasn’t very good on my camera and cellphone. I did get some sunrise photos with a cruise ship and ferry in the background, not to bad!
I’m parked illegally, so moved once a park became available in the camping area.
Put the kettle on for a cup of tea and made some toast as I have time to kill! Around 7.30am a little bit of drama started, wasn’t sure what was going on for a while. People were pointing up the cliff at something and then a man tried to climb up the cliff. He kept on slipping backwards as it was loose gravel. Next thing a lady came running along the beach with her dog and stopped the Park Ranger who was taking down the camper vans number plates. I couldn’t help but to hear their conversation. There was a dog stuck on the cliff face and the owner was trying to get to it! She said that she had asked someone to ring for help. So Doggy rescue is under way, no kidding! The Park Ranger drove down and started to climb up the ridge down the far end. The dog owner had completely disappeared; couldn’t see him anywhere. Next thing you know the Fire Service turn up (7.30am) with four fire man aboard, one stayed with the truck and the other 3 headed towards the lady standing on the road below where the dog was!
Two of them spoke to the ranger as he came back and then headed up the same ridge but going up much higher and around so they could come down the other side of the dog. After a couple of attempts using ropes etc, he couldn’t reach the dog and headed back to his partner.
As he was doing that another Fire Service truck (8.30am) turned up, with a special rescue unit. Four fireman heading over towards the group that was at the base of the cliff and then walked up the same ridge as the others had gone.
One of them was ahead of the other 3 guys, he walked around the cliff edge and then proceeded to go straight down the cliff face with a pick thing he kept on stabbing the ground with, to check that the ground with stable and not loose gravel.
By 9.02am the fireman reached the dog, one happy dog I might add! Oops, it was time for me to go, or Brent will be waiting for me at Makara beach.
Head for Makara beach by 9.05am, had a good run with the traffic guess the busy time had passed. I arrived at Makara beach @ 10am
Made a coffee @ 10.35am, no sign of Brent – obviously taking a bit longer than expected. Put coffee in thermos and boiling water into his cup to keep everything hot. Made him a sandwich and boiled a couple of eggs. Lots of fishing boats going out off Makara beach and looks to be some divers going for paua.
Brent arrived around 11.50am however he wasn’t feeling to well! He had a coffee and his sandwich hoping that he would feel better!
After a while he decided to call it a day and rest up, hopefully tomorrow will be a better day. Lots of people out fishing, spear fishing, paua, Kina, crayfish and who knows what else! So he paddled his kayak up the Makara Stream where the boats come in at high tide.
Speaking to a local we are able to stay here the night around by the boat ramp!
Time to practice taking some photos, great spot nice scenery and plenty of seagulls and ducks!!
One lady pulled up in her car and was feeding them out of her window!
Really nice evening, we had a drink down by the waters edge and watched the sun go down.
26th February, 2020
Makara to Pukerua Bay
Very pleasant layover at Makara yesterday. An advantage of not having time pressures. Stopping to enjoy places, even when the weather is good, is not a hard decision to make.
And an easy launch today just outside the camper door at the mouth of the Makara Stream. The tide not quite full enough to paddle down the stream.
Conditions were perfect again today offering the chance to rock hop around to Titahi Bay.
A Cooks Strait crossing to The Brothers looked very doable today. Our next return to Makara will be to do just that.
Surprised to see a couple of fishermen on Boom Rock this early in the morning. Paddled inside their cast zone for a wave and a nod.
Slicing over the shallows of Rock Point and Green Point, it was clear that I had a little bit of current going my way.
Ended up arriving before Shaz. But that’s fine. It’s only 2 hours to Pukerua Bay from here before driving home.
After a coffee and snack, headed off for Pukerua Bay in perfect conditions. It’s a luxury cruising into a beautiful beach for smoko!
More rock hopping around to Pukerua Bay managing to scrape Secala’s hull over a couple of reefs. It’s a rugged and remote coastline despite the capital city being very close as the crow flies. The water is so clear that I reckon I could have picked out crayfish feelers amongst the rocks and seaweed.
Great batch of scones for lunch on arrival at Pukerua Bay, before heading home. A very enjoyable couple of days on the water and the notorious Cooks Strait now behind us. Progress will hopefully pick up as conditions will be more predictable. Travel times will reduce every paddle day too!
Shaz ………….. 26 February 2020
Up later this morning, Brent didn’t want to leave until around 7am. He was up, had breakfast (last nights mince on toast) cup of tea then got dressed and ready to go. He was actually on the water by 6.49am.
I took my time getting sorted, then checked the GPS and it was a 42 minute drive to Titahi Bay from Makara beach. I set off in plenty of time and followed the route, however when I got to the Spencer Forest the large gates were shut – so the road was CLOSED! Great, so had to head back down the road that I came up, and in the end I didn’t save any time by going this way. In fact it took me longer! Oh well shit happens some times!
I arrived at Arnold Park in Titahi bay only to fine Brent standing there waiting for me, what the heck! He told me it was a 3 hour paddle, and should get there by 10am so would have been there in plenty of time! He said that the northerly wind didn’t get up like the weather report said!
Anyway I made him a coffee and some cheese on crackers before he set off for Pukerua Bay where he is coming in before we head home!
On arrival at Pukerua Bay the sea was flat like glass, however after and hour it started to get a little choppy. I found a park along side the road going around the beach front, under a tree for some shade as its very hot today! There are some beautiful homes along here with amazing views, lucky devils!
It is such a beautiful spot and a beautiful sunny day, I got my chair out and sat reading for a while. So relaxing!
After a while I decided to make some cheese scones for our lunch, as I put them in the oven Brent arrived. Good timing!
After lunch I wasn’t feeling to well, so laid down and Brent packed his gear up as we are heading home! After a lie down I started to feel a bit better so clean up and then we were ready to leave for home.