Wednesday 17 February Green Islets to Puysegur Landing
To be frank, this was not a day that I was expecting to paddle. Yesterday’s big winds and seas were not forecast to be that strong until very late ! This threw my confidence of a possible paddle today; expecting the sea conditions, at least, to still be too turbulent. I hadn’t pre-packed last night and was very casual out of bed.
When I did emerge I saw a light SE and sea conditions looking OK. From the beach. I grabbed the VHF and tried to find a fisherman I could talk to. No boats straight out from the Bay, so strode off to the isthmus to see if I could raise someone through the gap; and confirm the conditions out there.
On the way, in a clearing just off the beach, I stumbled on a hind just 30m away. Her head was down feeding and enjoying the morning sun on her back. She hadn’t detected me yet; so I froze on the spot while she continued feeding. She raised her head in my direction when I made the slightest of movements. But then resumed her feeding. I was in a bit of a hurry now to assess todays paddle opportunity, so moved on and let her find cover within the manuka scrub. An unexpected moment though, inadvertently stumbling across the hind; undetected. And so close. Will never happen again, I’m sure.
On I rush, towards the isthmus and try several times on VHF channels 10 & 16 to raise a fisherman. Any fisherman. Then, to my surprise I got Puysegur Maritime Radio responding to my “All Stations” calls. I requested and received a brief forecast for Puysegur which was “Variable 10kts, slight seas”. And got some motivational words from Lynn (Red) Paterson via my inReach.
Decision made ……. I was going to launch for Puysegur. Again! I was packed and on the water by 0930. Much later than usual. A 2nd farewell to Green Islets. A little rushed this time but no less heartfelt.
Once clear of the confused lumpy water around the Green Islets “headland”, the seas settled. Became more even and predictable. And the paddling became enjoyable for a while at least.
Then my first close encounter; of many, with an albatross. The albatross approached from my starboard quarter. Inclining its huge wingspan towards me, shaping to circle in front. I stop paddling. My attention is fully averted now. As it crossed my bow by only 20 meters, her head turned, levelled; and our eyes locked. At the same height above sea level. For that knowing length of time. I feel an affinity. A kinship. Like we feel towards dolphins. Or whales. When we swim with them. Or make eye contact. There is an exchange ……… of warmth; of empathy; a respect of sorts.
Its huge wing tip is grazing the undulating sea surface. You could tell; as occasionally there is a slight tug on its wing tip feathers. Unbelievable grace and control. The moment passes too quickly.
Not many get the chance to experience an albatross at their level. At sea level. So close. They exude resilience, control, calm. I feel an emotional bond. And more. I’m not a spiritual person. Normally!
The winds were slowly increasing now; through from 12kts to 25kts as Long Reef approaches. Gusting higher around Windsor Point, Marshall Rocks and Puysegur Point.
The ride is gripping at times with Secala sent surfing down some steep faces and occasionally hard bracing when breaking waves shunt the stern in one direction or the other. Looking behind is a little daunting. Focused my attention ahead. Where it should be. It was an intense paddle but well under control. Thankfully. It was a reminder; if I needed one, that this region can serve up these conditions without warning. “Variable 10”; yeah right!”
A fast trip overall, averaging 8.2km/hr. The second half of the ride would have been much quicker. Was happy to round Puysegur Point into the sheltered waters of Otago Retreat; and especially relieved to be making some progress at last.
Arrived at Puysegur Landing to a warm welcome by 8 other paddlers who had flown by helicopter into Preservation Inlet the previous day. They gathered around to lift the heavy Secala up the beach and made me a cup of tea. Awesome. Was enjoying some human interaction. For a change. With like minded people. Nice to meet a couple of “young” kayaking pros here, in Bevan Walker and John Lumley.
There was time in the day to push on to Landing Bay but conditions were no better a couple of hours later; so decided to stay here the night. Took the walk out to Puysegur Point; that I had always wanted to do anyway. And quite possibly swayed my decision to stay. The 2 hour return walk was rewarded with spectacular views from this rugged windswept Point. Many photos taken. There is plenty of deer sign along the walk and a fresh deer head is left on an open grass area near the Point.
It’s a 5 minute walk from the huts at the Landing to get drinkable water from the stream. It’s novel to be in the “luxury” of a hut even though I would be sleeping on the concrete floor tonight, with all the bunks taken. The sandflies are less intense here as I enjoy wandering around without a head net for the first time.
A very welcome change of scenery too with fantastic views up the Inlet. I have done plenty of research on this area prior to this trip. The history here is mind boggling and a large part of me wants to dwell in the area and soak it up. There is a tiny cemetery behind the hut of 3 people who had drowned on the same day here back in 1895. Trying to cross over the 1km gap to Coal Island.
Somehow I have formed the opinion that’s it two paddle days from here to Dusky Sound; and this is backed up by Bevan saying that it’s an 11 hour direct paddle to get to Dusky. Which, for me, translates to two paddle days, as I don’t think I can take on an 11 hour day just yet. And even considering such a big day, in these parts, is not a smart idea. With that in mind; I only have one good day tomorrow before NW winds arrive on Friday. Landing Bay is 4 hours paddle away and a natural launch point for Dusky. Do I head for there tomorrow and sit out the northerlies; or hang out here and do some exploring of this historic area while the northerlies play out?
A couple of the paddlers (Vince and Bevan) go diving for paua and crayfish and share their cook up with me later on. Beaut paua fritters.
The evening forecast from Shaz and Chris remains the same. Good tomorrow. Then all bets are off for a few days. I set up my bed on the concrete floor. One of the ladies offers to trade her bunk with my floor. Figuring an old man on an adventure is more deserving. I’m thankful but politely decline. Reflects the type of people they are though. Just good buggers. Retired to bed unsure of my intentions tomorrow.
Thursday 18 February Puysegur Landing to Luncheon Cove
I casually rise and brew a coffee. My air mattress performed well on the concrete floor. As I knew it would.
I wasn’t at all in the headspace to paddle today either. The result of a lack of decision-making last night.
I still figured that I needed two paddle days to get to Dusky Sound. It’s decision time. Do I continue on today to Landing Bay or Newton River? To sit out the northerlies. Or stay at Puysegur Landing to do some exploring. Reality kicks in (eventually!) …….. you just don’t waste good paddle days in these parts.
If I get past Cape Providence, I have only one option to pull out before committing to Dusky Sound. That’s at Newton River just south of West Cape. It’s an OK landing. Apparently. In reasonable conditions.
I re-check the Puysegur to Luncheon Cove (Dusky Sound) route; and by my reckoning it’s actually only 9.5 hours paddle, rather than 11 hours! Why hadn’t I re-checked this before? This makes the prospect of getting to Dusky Sound today much more likely.
I check the forecast from Chris and Shaz again. Today is good. Light southerlies. After that it will be a few days of northerlies. As Chris says “Every mile away from Puysegur is a good mile!”. I immediately prepare to launch. I’m fired up now. The options are Landing Bay (4hrs), Newton River (6hrs) or all the way to Dusky Sound (probably Luncheon Cove 9.5hrs). I will go as far as I can given the conditions and my fitness.
Again the Puysegur team carry Secala to the waters edge and bid me farewell; as they set off on an exploration of Preservation Inlet. I hope to get that opportunity another day.
I shoot out Otago’s Retreat and; taking Bevan’s advice, aim for the gap between Gulches Head and Balleny Reef. “Stay about 300 to 400 meters off Gulches Head” Bevan says.
It’s fairly lumpy, with the swell bounce back, around the southern tip of Coal Island and up its western side. I head for Broke-adrift Passage which is between Gulches Head and Balleny Reef that extends 4km offshore. By chance I will have the benefit of an ebbing tide for most of the day. I will take every advantage I can in these parts. Gulches Head demarcates Preservation Inlet from Chalky Inlet. This area (Broke-Adrift Passage) has an even more treacherous reputation than Puysegur due to the shoaling and currents that can occur. Carefully threading my way through the Passage; I start what seems a very long haul past Chalky Island and the entrance to Chalky Inlet; towards Cape Providence.
The vast scale of this place continues to mess with my judgement of time and distance. The third dimension now dominates. Where it never has before. I am learning to rely solely on my watch for reliable paddle (distance) estimations.
I have been warned to give Cape Providence a wide berth. There is shoaling for over 4km SW of this Cape. Beyond Gulches Head, setting course for Cape Providence, there is a period of relatively easier paddling as Balleny Reef offers some protection from the SW swell. I am grateful for a light Sly breeze now, that I’m hoping will assist me through the day. Possibly a long day. I seem to be making reasonable progress as landmarks tick by roughly on schedule. Although getting around Cape Providence seems to take forever. A consequence of being further offshore than normal. There is a lot of swell lift around Cape Providence as I set my sights now on West Cape. Eventually passing Cape Providence lighthouse, the paddle becomes smoother as the shoaling recedes closer in to the shoreline. I can now start tracking directly towards West Cape, 2 hours away, easing closer to shore.
West Cape is the westernmost point of New Zealand. Although not recognised with a structure. Like a lighthouse. Like North or East Capes. As a consequence it lacks prominence and is underwhelming; physically. Land or ocean access to this remote place is clearly an issue. There is a clear demarcation at West Cape with the intensity of the weather. My observations over the months prior to this trip is that conditions generally mellow out north of this Cape. And the further north; the better.
The wind ramps up a notch as I approach and pass close to West Cape; as it does on all promontories. Newton River is clearly observable just before the Cape and looks like a good landing option if needed. I am still making good time as I pass close by the Cape and apply an easterly increment to my heading for the first time since leaving Orepuki. It’s only about 2 hours paddle to the entrance of Dusky Sound from here. And another hour or so to Luncheon Cove. Luncheon is firmly in my sights now. I am feeling good. I have hydrated and eaten regularly in anticipation of a biggish day. Glad to have brought extra water.
The wind softens and the swell abates a little. My albatross is back. Checking in. I stop paddling. It approaches from the starboard quarter; dips a huge wing and circles close across my bow. We make eye contact. For a knowing length of time………… All is well.
For a while the paddling gets easier as we head for South Point and the entrance to Dusky. There is a fair amount of shoaling in this area to be very wary of. The swell lift keeps you on your toes. The occasional one is breaking. Suddenly and heavily. In the bigger sets. As I start the slow turn into Dusky passing South Point and Fannin Bay, the swell dissipates and ride becomes comfortable again.
With a tail wind I’m on the final leg towards Anchor Island and the Many Islands. When I’m close to where I think Luncheon Cove is, I check in with an anchored yachtie who confirms it is only 100m away.
I enter the historic Cove. There are a couple of yachties anchored here. There’s a guy sitting on the deck of one of them. I sidle up and stop for a chat. A couple of minutes later another guy comes out into the cockpit. With a melodic voice a couple of octaves higher; he invites me on board for dinner. Expressing interest in my trip. I politely decline………. not sure what’s on the desert menu……!
Just above the Luncheon Cove memorial plaque, I make my camp on the only flat piece of ground nearby. It is late and I’m a little weary but very happy to have left Puysegur, Cape Providence and West Cape behind me. And now that I’m safely in a Sound I should be able to make more unimpeded progress, regardless of the forecast. It feels like the adventure is back on again. At last! And I’m keen to keep up the momentum.
Not many sandflies here I notice. The local dive charter vessel Tutoko comes into the Cove for the night with a boat load of divers. The boats deckhand comes over in his rubber inflatable, to have a chat and see if there was anything I needed. He made sure I was in touch with Meri Leask. Meri is centre of gravity in these parts. Another good bugger checking in on folks …… where folks are not usually meant to be!
Once he has gone I realise that the nearby creek is actually dry. I will need to replenish water before the paddle tomorrow.
Friday 19 February Luncheon Cove to Acheron Passage
Woke a little late (just after 7) this morning. The dive charter boat Tutoko took divers on a night dive making quite a racket throughout the very tranquil Cove. With motors, generators and general people noise. That amplifies over water, it seems. And when they finally settled down the birds were just as raucous. Never heard anything like it in the bush. Some sound like strangled cats. Others like squealing pigs. Anchor Island is pest free so there is likely to be birds I’ve never heard before. I wonder if there are kiwi among them.
My aim is to get to Disappointment Cove today. It’s 6 hours away. Up Dusky Sound and inside Resolution Island, through Acheron Passage. Looking forward to an easy and enjoyable paddle. My first off the open seas. But I know the forecast is for increasing NW breezes. These are meant to be building later in the day. Hopefully giving me enough time to get through Acheron Passage.
There is a DOC hut in Disappointment Cove and I’ve been told where to find the key to get in. It would be great to get there to sit out the strong northerlies in relative comfort.
The deckman on the Tutoko checks in with me again this morning. Meri wants confirmation of my details and intentions.
I set off on a beaut morning after filling my water containers with the friendly yachtie. With the melodic voice. Very enjoyable and easy paddling through Dusky Sound. Past Stop Island, Passage Islands and across Duck Cove towards Porpoise Point. No swell or shoaling to constantly monitor. Able to relax and take in the surroundings. I stop paddling often, just to enjoy the peace and quiet. I steal up close to sleeping seals that I can reach out and touch with my paddle. Shags and Oyster Catchers stand sentry on their claimed piece of rock. As I enter Acheron Passage, past Passage Point, the northerly breeze becomes evident although only 10kts. I stay close to the Resolution Island side of the Passage to keep away from the white caps in the middle. It’s almost low tide. Mussels cover the rocks within the tidal range. There are even tree branches, that hang in the tidal zone, laden with mussels.
As I work my way up the Passage the NW increases to 15kts. Which is still manageable. The tide is also turning against me now. Winds continue building over the next 30 minutes to 25kts+. The wind is way earlier than I expected. Or maybe I hadn’t factored in enough of the funnelling effect of the narrow steep Passage. I hug the edge of the Passage. Within a paddle length. Progress is slow. The planned 2 hour paddle through Acheron Passage will now at least double. Or more. I look for a contingency plan. It’s still early in the day. The wind could ease up later and allow me to finish. Without exhausting myself.
At the entrance to Wet Jacket Arm (north side) I know there is refuge on the north side, at Muscle Cove. It will have perfect protection from the northerly there but will not have much sun or a good view of the conditions. However on the opposite (south) side of the entrance to Wet Jacket Arm I spot a north facing beach. Worth a look. And a better spot to observe the conditions through the Passage. Either option requires a crossing of Acheron Passage.
The Passage is very choppy now. I commit to crossing it though. My grip tightens on the paddle; leaning forward and hard into the wind. And paddle at an angle making as much progress as possible across the passage; without losing ground downwind.
The crossing is OK. The wind is strong but consistent. I land on a beautiful pebble beach. And I see that it has good water and camping options. There is a great view up the Passage to observe prevailing conditions. From here I can assess the opportunity to make the 2 hour dash to Disappointment Cove; hopefully later today. I have a coffee and enjoy the sun for a few hours leaving Secala fully loaded.
By 6pm I abandon the opportunity of a launch today. I erect my tent and cook tea. I remember that Bevan had given me a bag of cooked spuds, back at Puysegur Landing. They were in my day hatch and I had forgotten about them. They are a couple of days old now but still look and smell OK! Even though Bevan suggested eating them asap. They fry up well in coconut oil with plenty of salt and pepper.
I check the area around the beach. This would be a fine place to camp even in a strong northerly. There are places further in the bush to pitch a tent, offering more wind protection, if necessary.
It seems the northerlies will be with us until Wednesday or Thursday next week. Another 5 or 6 days! Very happy with my decision to paddle north of the Capes yesterday.
At about 8pm the wind dies off enough to paddle. But too late with remaining daylight. I resolve to try a dawn launch tomorrow. To get to Disappointment Cove. Hopefully before the anticipated stronger northerlies pick up. I will launch without breakfast for this quick 2 hour paddle. I have packed everything I can and set my alarm for 0500.
Saturday 20 February Acheron Passage to Disappointment Cove
It didn’t seem like I had slept at all last night. My mind was focussed on getting to Disappointment Cove. I heard some strong wind gusts play through the trees during the night; that worried me. Checked my watch several times and at 0440hrs decided to just get up. Before the alarm. Under headlamp I pack up inside the tent, change into my wetsuit and apply the usual sandfly defences before emerging. I head to the beach to check conditions. It is nearly high tide and there is only minor lapping on the beach. Good signs. It was thankfully a fine night so the tent and tarp are dry. I pack up Secala under headlamp. Breakfast can wait till I arrive at Disappointment Cove. Like a reward. I put a couple of energy bars in the deck bag, if I need. I sit in Secala ready to push off as soon as first light allows some discrimination between land and water. Don’t need as much light as I would if I were launching through surf. Or a reef.
Off I push and upped my normal paddle stroke rate. It’s only 2 hours. I can afford to lift the heart rate a little. Stretch the arms.
Immediately felt a side on breeze and chop coming down Wet Jacket Arm. A NE to start the day. Fine by me. I get across Wet Jacket Arm entrance and into the lee of Muscle Cove. Still in very low light I passed close to the narrow gap leading through to Muscle Cove. There was a residual light breeze coming down the Passage but nothing to worry about. I’m stoked the northerly hasn’t arrived yet. I should be assisted by an ebbing tide soon. I cross back over to the Resolution Island side of the Passage. Point to point. The shortest route. At near sprint pace. Heading for the point near Occasional Cove. There is still no breeze to be concerned about.
I get to Occasional Cove while daylight reveals a gloomy morning. Entry Island dominates my view ahead. I know for sure that there was nothing going to stop me reaching Disappointment Cove now. I’m stoked.
I peel off to the left and back off the pace to enjoy sightseeing through the beautiful Gilbert Islands. The fishing and diving would be terrific around here. Or just a couple of good days exploring.
A couple of yachts were coming out of Breaksea Sound early, taking advantage of the NE following breeze. I hope they were heading south.
I ponder doing a circumnavigation of Resolution Island via Goose and Woodhen Coves one day. That would be a wonderful trip. Like many others. There is so much to this place.
Turned into the protected eastern corner of Disappointment Cove and landed on another idyllic beach. Immediately came across fresh deer tracks in the sand. Within the tide zone. Pretty much an expectation now.
Like Green Islets, mine are the only human prints on the beach. It feels completely remote, isolated and untouched. And it is, mostly. Except there is a DOC hut here. And it is all mine for now.
I don’t see the DOC hut initially. From the beach. Followed some track markers for about 50 meters to see the hut nestled in some cleared scrub. It’s locked. I thankfully find the key where I was told it would be. I’m looking forward to a real bed tonight and a hut to myself. As long as no DOC staff arrive. Which is unlikely. The hut book indicates that they were here a couple of weeks ago and it seems that it can be months between visits. This is a rarely used hut. This will be a great spot to hunker down during the coming wind and rain.
The small hut has two rooms with a door separating them. The first room is like a lobby for wet gear, boots and storage. And no doubt assists with sandfly control. The second room has 2 foam mattress beds and a gas cooker, insect screens over the two windows, a solar powered LED light and a water tank. Not for drinking.
I unload the gear from Secala and enjoy a breakfast of muesli and coffee. My reward.
I head off for a reccie. To fill all my water containers. I will be here a few days. There is a solid stream half way around the beach. The water is clear. For the first time this trip. I continue my walk around the beach and scrub. And check out the rocks at the waters edge. For signs of paua or mussels. There are none. The beach is usually a giveaway if there are shellfish around. And there are none.
On the way round I do my usual gathering of foreign (plastic) objects. That I accumulate for burning. It’s such a shame that these beautiful remote places are not immune to human garbage.
I can’t help noticing a falcon that sounds like it’s in distress. It’s flying around screeching continuously. Then it comes down to ground and hops along the driftwood at the top of the beach. Still screeching. I can’t figure out why (for now).
The northerly wind intensifies into the Cove during the morning. Justifying my early start today. It will be really howling down Acheron Passage now. I won’t be lighting a fire or going fishing today. The up side is fewer sandflies. In areas sheltered from the wind, the sandflies are still horrendous though, just like Green Islets. Which means wearing a head net all day. When outside the hut.
It’s been sunny most of the day. It’s great having a north facing Cove. I manage to charge the power bank and all the devices. Finished the day reading my book and enjoyed a really good Outdoor Gourmet freeze dried dinner. They are so much better than some others on the market.
Sunday, 21 February to Wednesday, 24 February Disappointment Cove
The forecast for the next few days is steadily increasing northerlies from 25kts today to 50kts and 6 meter swells on Tuesday. Although this Cove is exposed to the north there is enough protection to set up camp in the scrub behind the beach. I have the real luxury of a DOC hut though.
After a half ration of muesli with coffee I head down to the beach to check for deer sign and get my pee bottle out of Secala. Last night I had to go outside the hut to pee! Naked! Won’t happen again. Another trait of sandflies I realise. They don’t sleep! Or maybe they take shifts! When humans are around. Maybe Fiordland sandflies are smarter than others. And they have bigger bodies to support their bigger brains………..
There are no deer tracks in the sand this morning. But it is high tide. There are plenty of bluebottle jellyfish washed up on the beach though. The offshore horizon out towards Breaksea Island really looks nasty, but it’s sheltered enough just outside the Cove and inside the Gilbert Islands to go fishing I reckon. Without any bait I ended up tying some flat bread on the hooks with bait elastic. There were some dried up strands of paua left on each hook though. From my previous fishing at Green Islets.
I paddle out the Cove. The water depth drops away to over 200 meters very quickly. But between the Gilbert Islands it’s a more manageable 20-30 meters. With a hand line. Before long I’ve got 2 cod and a pig fish. Enough for 2 good dinners. I think I’m going to like it here. I did a little more exploring of the area before returning to camp. Stevens Cove is adjacent and almost fully enclosed. Except for a small entrance big enough for fishing boats. This Cove must be used as a refuge sometimes; as there are mooring lines attached to trees and out to buoys in the Cove. The clear water reveals a sandy bottom.
After processing the fish, I find a beaut swimming hole in the river for a scrub up. And a change into a fresh set of thermals. I have been using the same set since I left Orepuki! About 2 weeks! Just as well I’m in Fiordland eh! Turned out to be a quick scrub and hair wash in the very cold water. And then the usual ordeal with the sandflies. Returned to the hut for a flatbread snack. The leftover bait. With marmite and a cup of tea.
The falcon is still flying around seemingly in distress. I still haven’t figured out why.
After a lazy afternoon reading; I finish the day with a great dinner of cod and rice cooked in coconut oil and lashings of garlic.
Monday, 22 Feb – Up at dawn. No overnight rain that I heard. 1/2 packet of muesli with coffee. Planning a bush walk today. Will follow a trapline probably.
Unsure if it will rain. Gather up a few things to take on the walk: inReach (for tracking), PLB, water, peanut slab, dried fruit & nuts, survival blanket, rain jacket, rain hat, goPro and repellent in a drybag. Put strapping tape over my toes where my sandals have previously rubbed them raw. I let Shaz know I’m off for a walk and I will have my tracker on.
Set off at about 0800 and follow track markers up a ridge to the south. For about an hour and a half. Working up a bit of a sweat. There was a disappointing level of bird life; just quiet bush in the main. Disappointing for Resolution Island I feel. It’s one of the flagship conservation areas in the country. The hut book notes that a stoat was caught around here in early Feb.
By chance, on my return to the hut I came across two piles of downy feathers only a couple of meters apart. Close by the tree where I first found the falcon in distress. The feathers are obviously of the fledgling. There are a few small feathers clearly with falcon markings amongst the grey downy ones. This is obviously the reason for the falcons behaviour over the last couple of days.
The wind is blowing harder today than any other. It could be another lazy afternoon. Went for another trap line walk. In the other direction. Towards Stevens Cove this time. I attempt some deer stalking but I am generally walking downwind for this walk.
The wind is getting wild as the afternoon rolls on. Keeps the sandflies under control though. A strong surge is rolling into the Cove. I spend the rest of the afternoon reading. A new Jack Reacher book. Perfect!
The forecast continues to indicate that it will be Thursday or Friday before I get away from here. Would like to get to Doubtful in one hit. It will be about a 9 hour paddle to Gut Hut in Doubtful Sound. Then Deep Cove Friday. That would be great. To see Shaz.
Tuesday, 23 Feb – Landlocked another day. Expected though. The storm has really hit overnight. Stronger winds and bigger gusts from the north. Definitely gales out there sending a strong sea surge directly into the Cove. I can see why it got its name. No shelter at all from northerly conditions for boats when it is this strong. But I’m fine in a hut tucked around the corner.
Even though Secala is safely inverted above the beach; I’m concerned enough to move her behind some scrub further from the beach. For protection. Stevens Cove just around the corner would be a great refuge for boats in these conditions though. Camping here in these conditions would also be fine behind some scrub or trees.
The forecast is for a southerly due tomorrow that will hopefully quell the forecast 5 meter northerly swell. The forecast is for a light southerly on Thursday. My target paddle day.
At 1000hrs there is still very strong winds and intense gusts. No rain yet. Waiting for low tide, to fetch water from the river. The sea surge is pushing right up the river at high water. Low tide is about 1400. I will need to cross the river and walk up the right hand side, at least 100 meters, to be sure of getting fresh water. The left side of the river has steep banks preventing access further up the river.
1400 – The sun is out and the devices are charging. At the river I pull my long johns up over my knees and time a quick crossing between the surging waves. With water bladders refilled; all chores are completed. Huge wind gusts howl through the Cove now. Storm force. 40-50 knots easily. The forecast is accurate. No sandflies now.
Via inReach I discuss with Shaz the merits of coming into Deep Cove. To replenish supplies and take some ‘time out’ together. Or if it makes more sense to push on to Milford if the weather forecast is too good to miss. If so, I will need a food drop. I tally up my remaining food supplies and figure I have 14 days worth of food left. Without rationing. My food management at Green Islets has really extended my supplies. It’s only 2 paddle days to Deep Cove from here. Three at most. I send Shaz a food and supply list just in case. Shaz has said that Real Journeys can drop my supplies off at Blanket Bay in Doubtful Sound. A good option, if I want to continue up Thompson Sound without deviation.
1600 – Rain has set in. Horizontally! We have all the elements of a storm here now. I might be in a DOC hut with no running water or toilet; but it feels like the Savoy right now.
I have a whole packet of gnocchi tonight. I’m easing up a little on the rationing now that Doubtful is not far away. Shaz’s forecast still looks good for Thursday. The day after tomorrow. It just doesn’t seem likely while a storm is still unfolding here. I will prepare tomorrow for a Thursday launch. I know how quickly conditions can change around here.
My thoughts at the moment are to paddle to Doubtful Sound (Gut Hut) on Thursday. About a 9 hour paddle day. Then on Friday paddle up Doubtful Sound to Deep Cove – only 4 hours. And in time to catch the returning Real Journeys bus and ferry out to Manapouri. Leaving Secala and gear tied up at Deep Cove. For my return.
Wednesday, 24 Feb – Woke pre-dawn and lay in until first light about 0600. Could still hear the wind and the surf pounding in the Cove. Got up to have a half packet of muesli and coffee by headlamp. Opened the last (and 3rd) 200gm packet of coffee this morning. The first two packets have lasted 17 days so I should be right with this one to get me to Doubtful. I only have 2 cups a day when landlocked, at most.
Through the morning the rain backs off to showers. But there is still a strong northerly surge into the Cove. I wonder if conditions will be suitable for a launch tomorrow. I’m expecting and hoping for the forecast SW change some time today. To help flatten the northerly swell. Definitely won’t be a rush to launch until I can assess the conditions. Safety first always. Just like Green Islets; it’s been great to have a place like this to hang out through inclement weather.
Not much on the agenda this morning. I settle down to read more Jack Reacher.
1200 – Still intermittent rain. The wind has died away significantly but it’s still from the north. It’s 1.5 hours after HW and the surge into the Cove is still as big as I’ve seen it. I figure it would even be a challenge to launch off the beach today at HW. There’s a good dump onto these rocks with no break in the sets. If necessary I would take Secala over to the river and launch through the entrance there. It would be easier I reckon.
1400 – Close enough to LW now to cross the river and replenish water supplies for tomorrows paddle. The wind has completely dropped off now leaving a thick blanket of low misty cloud. Visibility isn’t good! Definitely wouldn’t launch in this. The swell surge is still strong in the Cove. Have organised gear and packed all that I can for now.
1600 – Relocated Secala closer to the beach and set her up on deck for the paddle. Full water bladder, deck bag with supplies, correct paddle plans, etc.
The tide is out now and you can see how the sand over the lower portion of the beach has been scoured out by the storm surge. There is only rocks now where sand was a couple of days ago. I made a fire to burn my waste and the beach debris that I had collected. The beach drift wood was so wet, that for the first time I used a little white spirit from my primus to get the fire going. Worked a treat. All plastic beach rubbish gone.
1700 – Had a big feed. Used up a leftover half packet of gnocchi with a full packet of rice and tuna. Getting loose with supplies now. Loading up for big paddle to Doubtful tomorrow …..I hope!
Hi Brent – great log! Really useful. Quick question, is there a walking track from Disappointment Cove to Stevens Cove? Much appreciated. Lenny
Hi Lenny. There are trapline tracks in the area that will get you from Disappointment to Stevens. cheers.