Thursday, 25 February 2021 Disappointment Cove to Gut Hut (Doubtful Sound)
Up at 0630. No rush to get away today but not dawdling either. Full packet of muesli with coffee. Packed up and cleaned hut. Enjoying the easier transition from a hut onto the water. Rather than from a tent. Launched just after 0800. Hopefully the southerly change yesterday has knocked the stuffing out of the northerly swell that would have ramped over the last few days.
Almost reluctantly I set out from Disappointment Cove. I leave this place too soon. There is so much more to do and explore here. I have fond memories.
Headed out through the Gilbert Islands anticipating some sort of northerly swell. Nothing! There was a NE breeze whipping down Breaksea Sound though. The same that I experienced when I arrived here a few days ago. As I emerged from the lee of Breaksea Island on my left, a moderate SW swell unfurled. Welcome back to the open ocean. Still no significant N swell. Happy days!
The coastline north from here has a daunting look and feel about it. High, imposing, fortress like cliffs extend all the way to Coal Bay. There is a significant swell backwash, keeping me further wide than normal.
The key milestones, and contingency landings today are Coal Bay (2 hours paddle); Dagg Sound (4 hours paddle); and then the iconic Hares Ears and the of the entrance to Doubtful Sound (6.5 hours paddle).
Coal Bay is not recommended for landing as it is a wide open Bay and very vulnerable to prevailing westerly swells.
I reached Coal Bay right on the 2 hour schedule. The coastline towards Dagg Sound alters subtly with continuous cliffs giving way to very steep ravines down to the shoreline. There looks to be the occasional possible landing on the scree. A hard landing probably. Looking for alternative safe landings is just a paddle routine. In case conditions turn. Which is always possible. Even probable; in these parts.
Crossing Dagg Sound entrance, I came in a little close to Peninsula Point and became very uncomfortable in the backwash. Pushed out for the rounding of Black Point. Or what I thought was Black Point! My judgement of distance is still not the best.
A boat trawling for tuna, I expect, gave me a honk as it passed going in the opposite direction, only a couple of hundred meters away. A nice touch and good to see that I’m seen in the undulating seas. I paddle wave back.
From a distance I didn’t recognise the conspicuous rocks ahead. Eventually I join the dots and verify that, in fact, they are the iconic Hares Ears. Half the problem was that I didn’t expect them so soon. And from my angle of approach they do not take on their most recognised profile. This is however, a terrific highlight for me. These rocks adorn the pages of so many books that I have read. Paddling past them now is a moment to remember. I dwell a little. Soak it up. I come in close to Febrero Point. Close enough for the sandflies to find me! What are they doing this far from the shore?
I’m stoked to be entering Doubtful Sound. It guarantees now, that I will make Deep Cove tomorrow and meet up with Shaz after nearly 3 weeks. And I make it just before a few more days of northerly conditions. Perfect timing.
Gut Hut is still a good 1.5 hours paddle away though. I hug the shoreline to minimise the influence of the ebb tidal flow out of Doubtful. Then cross over to Bauza Island and follow its northern shores from Jamieson Head towards The Gut channel. My destination, Gut Hut, is just on the other side of this narrow channel between Bauza and Secretary Islands.
I am not particularly enthusiastic about pulling into a six bunk hut tonight. It is likely to be occupied; or full, given its a small hut. And its very accessible from “civilisation” at Deep Cove. Just before “The Gut” is Grono’s Bay. With waterfalls over the cliffs behind. I have read about this place. And of John Grono, an early pioneer. I pull into the beach to check it out as a possible camp option tonight. On closer inspection I changed my mind. The ground above the high water mark is not ideal. Decided to chance the hut.
It actually took me a while for me to locate Gut Hut. I expected it to be visible from the water. It wasn’t. Easily found after checking the TopoMap. Its a nice hut set back in the bush. Some DOC workers are based here while clearing tracks. Good buggers and thankfully room for all of us.
It’s been a pleasant day on the water today considering the stormy weather we have just had. There were definitely a few rough patches. However the light southerly breeze held. And enjoyed big moments passing the Hares Ears; and rounding Febrero Point into Doubtful. I reflect this evening on what an incredible journey it has been so far.
Opted for an easy freeze dried dinner tonight. Using up old stock. It’s definitely a struggle after enjoying fresh fish and paua through most of the trip.
Shaz has booked a Real Journeys day tour out of Deep Cove for tomorrow. So she can see me on the water as I paddle towards Deep Cove. I will be returning with her to Manapouri when her tour returns to Deep Cove in the afternoon.
Friday, 26 February 2021 Gut Hut to Deep Cove (Doubtful Sound)
The four DOC workers I shared the hut with last night were good buggers but they talked loudly into the night. While the tired old bugger went to bed. At dusk. As usual. One of the reasons I don’t like huts! Peoples routines and agendas never quite sync with yours.
I’m an early riser though. And so are they. So in that regard, at least, we were in sync. There’s no rush today as its only 4 hours paddle to Deep Cove. Although I know I will have an ebbing tide against me.
It’s darker in the bush so it seems earlier than normal; when I rise. After muesli and coffee I pack up and trundle the gear down the 50m or so to the beach. When I discovered issues with the inReach. It wasn’t activating and my personal settings weren’t there. I didn’t send my usual messages upon launching today. I set the tracker going, so hopefully Shaz will be able to get that.
As soon as I set off I saw a pod of dolphins heading for “The Gut” passage. Two of them on the fringe of the pod peel off to check me out. They swam right under me while I was still in very shallow water.
Not far out from Gut Hut is a major juncture for Doubtful Sound. To the left is Pendulo Reach and Thompson Sound. I will be returning here when I resume my journey to Milford Sound. On my right is First Arm. And ahead is Malaspina Reach leading to Deep Cove.
And then my obsession with waterfalls begins as I get deeper into Doubtful Sound.
Got an inReach message from Shaz saying not to rush, so that she could see me on the water. No worries! I’m on a grand waterfall tour.
As I approached Elizabeth Island I saw the Real Journeys day tour boat finally emerge from the southern end of Elizabeth Island. I tried several times to contact Shaz on VHF Ch 10 & 16 to no avail. But I see her waving from on deck. I paddle wave back.
I pulled into Deep Cove and found the Hostel Manager (Billy). Got his blessing to leave Secala tied up on the beach for a few days. All care ……no responsibility; of course.
I emptied Secala and laid all the gear out for sorting. Stuff to keep for the next leg to Milford Sound. And stuff that I wouldn’t. Took an inventory of all consumables (eg. insect repellent, food, COFFEE, matches, sunblock, etc); before stowing the “stuff to keep” back into Secala. Secured Secala well to an adjacent tree. Above the HW mark. Just! Skirt put over cockpit. Paddle tied on deck.
Shaz’s tour had returned now and was docking a couple of hundred meters away. Hastily got changed out of my wetsuit and into dry clothes just as the buses rolled up to the Hostel. A well oiled and synchronised daily tour operation won’t be waiting for any random, out of sync kayaker. Ran up the hill with my gear and jumped on the nearest, of two tour buses. As they were rolling out of Deep Cove towards West Arm. Stood in the aisle and called out for Shaz. More efficient than looking through the entire bus. Blank stares. She’s not on this bus.
We eventually meet up at the end of the 30 minute bus trip over the Wilmot Passage.
