5. Fiordland – Deep Cove to Milford Sound

Sunday 07 March, 2021 Deep Cove to Deas Hut (Thompson Sound)

Arrived yesterday by Real Journeys ferry to Deep Cove. For the 2nd solo leg through Fiordland. Said goodbye to Shaz again. This time at Manapouri.

We had just spent 9 days touring Catlins and Southland. On a rest and recuperation tour. Soft bed and good food. With a high fat content preferably. Like salami and cheese. In the fridge! I had lost a fair amount of weight during the 19 day effort from Orepuki to Deep Cove.

On the bus and over the Wilmot Pass. Steady rain sets in. It was calm at Deep Cove even though there are northerlies forecast for today. On arrival I checked in on Secala. Still there and still ship shape. Nothing appears tampered or missing. Good start.

I checked in with Billy (Hostel Manager) who said the sea conditions in the Sound would be good today. I was encouraged to make an immediate start back towards Gut Hut (4 hour paddle) but not convinced with Billy’s assessment. Asked if he could raise the Real Journeys day tour on VHF; who were currently out in the Sound. They reported back that there were 15-20kt northerlies in the Malaspina Reach. Thought so. I will be staying in the Hostel tonight. As expected. And make an early start in the morning. To Deas Hut (Thompson Sound) hopefully. About 6 hours paddle. Will be HW at about 0630 tomorrow morning.

When the rain eased I set about re-organising and packing Secala ready for the morning. It’s an easier pack with less provisions required for this leg to Milford Sound. Hopefully!

Deep Cove Hostel is $40 per night + $10 wifi (250MB). The rooms are comfortable and the facilities good. A big communal kitchen and really well heated. Would be a good place to spend a couple of days doing walks and day paddles maybe. Up Hall Arm or Crooked Arm.

Sunday 7th March – Up at 0530, breakie of muesli, banana and tea. I change into my paddle gear inside my room. I have dried my damp wetsuit, Adrenaline top and socks in my warm room overnight. The easiest transition into paddle gear I have ever had. Warm dry gear and no sandflies. But I’m going out into light rain. With paddle jacket on, I finish loading Secala by headlamp. The tide is well in. I will have the advantage of the ebb tide today. By 0700 there is sufficient daylight to launch and off we go into the mist, cloud, light rain and mirror calm water.

As I exit Deep Cove the sun rises behind me. And behind the cloud shrouded mountains. It’s loom emerges stronger revealing the huge landscape with layers of mist and cloud. I stop paddling. Take a moment. There are more waterfalls now. Spilling out of the mist. The atmosphere is surreal. From another time. It’s so eerily quiet too. The occasional solitary bird chatter breaks the silence and reverberates across the Sound. Confirming life and breaking a blissful trance. A dinosaur could lift its’ head out of the tree canopy; or mist, at any moment. And I wouldn’t blink an eye. Not such a stretch of the imagination.

At around mid morning the mist rises on the eastern slopes, with the sun breaking through often now. This adds all sorts of perspective to the landscape. I take photos. Often. In the hope of capturing the frequent changes of light. And the perfect image. They are all perfect. Entire scenes change perspective, depth, contrast and beauty within seconds. So often when finished taking a photo; I am taking the same, but different, scene again. Within seconds. I soon give up; and just enjoy the moments.

Waterfalls are under flood now. Magnificent. This is waterfall heaven. I’m a waterfall junkie. What a wonderful paddle.

Back at the major junction of Doubtful Sound, I turn to starboard and into Pendulo Reach, towards Thompson Sound. As I pass Seymour Island I see there are good looking beaches on my right between Espinosa Point and Pack Point. Then Bradshaw Sound extends an invitation out on the right; as I enter Thompson Sound. So many options to explore go begging. Another day; maybe. Hopefully!

Thompson Sound is calm. Initially. Secretary Island provides a buffer to the ocean and the rising SW wind. About a quarter of the way up the Sound a large spectacular waterfall spills from Secretary Lake. More stops and more photos.

The SWly is intensifying over the top of Secretary Island now. Sending strong wind gusts down the steep ravines and across Thompson Sound. The gust direction is influenced by the shape of the ravine. Sometimes a cross wind; sometimes a head wind. They are easily read. A preemptive grip on the paddle, thigh brace and lean, sees them through.

It will be rough outside today. I will stay somewhere in Thompson Sound. I’m targeting Deas Hut, but Pandora River is a good alternative. Just 30 minutes further up the Sound. One option is a shared Hut (potentially); the other a solo camp.

There’s always a compromise when sharing a hut. The key one for me is around sleep patterns. I’m usually early to bed and early to rise. Earlier than most. And it’s important for me to get early starts on paddle days. To get the best of the conditions. And minimise the chances of getting caught out, if they escalate. That this region is renowned for. That I experienced at Puysegur. After a late start.

There are a couple of boats anchored in the Cove. It could be busy. I get up to the hut and there are 3 hunter/fishermen (Matt, Steve & Finn) from Kapiti in this 10 bunk hut. I have a chat and they make me a cup of tea. Good buggers. I decide to stay. They said that last night the hut was full of young guys on a bender. They moved out for the night.

The boys are off for a dive and fish this afternoon. Hope they do well. Selfishly!

This is a short day for me as I sit out the strong SW. Tomorrow they are meant to ease for my intended trip outside to Caswell Sound. I have all the afternoon to enjoy the area. While the boys are away fishing, I gather and chop a good amount of firewood and light a fire in the potbelly. To warm up the fishermen on their return. Brownie points. Might earn me a feed.

There are a couple of very friendly fantails here. Following me around. I get the solar panels out during the sunny afternoon. After tomorrow there is a weather front rolling through. So I use every opportunity to charge the devices. Am hoping to be tucked into Caswell Sound tomorrow; to sit out the weather.

I take a walk though to Neck Cove just 100 meters through the bush; on the other side of the headland. It’s a funny looking place. Dead trees standing in swampy ground surrounded with toe toe’s that dominate the area. Can see the entrance to Thompson Sound from here.

The Kapiti boys return at about 6pm with crays and blue cod. They give me a crayfish tail that I only eat half of. Out of courtesy more than anything. And more reluctantly decline the offer of blue cod! I have already had a 2 serve dehydrated meal, so feeling quite bloated. It was funny when they asked if I like crayfish. To which I said “not particularly” but never pass up the opportunity of fresh food out here. They laughed and said that I must get crayfish regularly. Because only people who don’t get crayfish; say they love it!! They admitted not being fond of it either. But enjoyed catching them. Tough life for fishermen. Finally into bed at 9pm after an enjoyable evening.

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Monday 08 March, 2021 Deas Hut to Caswell Sound

Woke early, as usual, wanting to get a good start today. But the boys were still well tucked in; so I didn’t rise until 0700. Didn’t want to disturb them too early as they have been good buggers. Compromise. Got up as quiet as I could. Took all my gear outside the hut to pack. By the time I was ready to leave, Matt was up. At least I could say goodbye and thanks to him.

Eventually paddled out of the Cove at about 0800. It’s a grey morning with a light southerly wafting up Thompson Sound. The horizon is looking very lumpy and ominous as I approach the open ocean at the Sound entrance. I’m dubious, but decide to have a look around Shanks Head before making a final assessment. I know the look of the horizon can be deceiving sometimes. And I can easily return into the Sound if necessary.

There are a number of convenient refuge points today, that can be factored into the assessment. Nancy Sound and Charles Sound are pull out options before Caswell Sound. From Shanks Head these Sounds are only one hours paddle apart respectively.

As I round Shanks Head the landscape is, once again, awe inspiring and daunting. It actually takes your breath away. With an expletive thrown in. For emphasis. It’s so rugged, imposing and huge; as far as you can see. There’s no let up to the monstrosity of this place. It seems. With an effort I refocus on what is in front of me.

The horizon behind me is still very grey and rain is clearly occurring not too many kilometres away. It looks slow moving and is further out to sea. Closer to shore I am experiencing only light southerlies although the sea conditions are lumpy and irregular. It’s OK. I decide to push on. My only concern is the rain behind, and seaward of me. Visibility would be a worry. I’m hoping it’s slow moving enough for me to find refuge if required.

The sea state stays the same until I get past Anxiety Point at the entrance to Nancy Sound; when it smoothes out a little.

I get past Nancy Sound and Charles Sound with the rain bands still behind me but seemingly getting closer on my port beam. But not closer to shore. I continue to keep a wary eye out. It is very slow moving at least. Caswell Sound is only another 1 hours paddle away. I continue on.

As I approach Caswell Sound there is clearly a good work-up going on with about 50+ Sooties and an albatross furiously working the area. I already have my helmet and GoPro on my head as I had set up to take footage of the entrance to the Sound via the Styles Island gap. Then I found myself in the middle of blue fin tuna leaping clear out of the water all around me. They are quite small by blue fin standards; only about 20-30kg. I try to turn the GoPro on, to find that the battery is dead!! Shit!! I had used it several times today. But this is no time to have a dead battery? Gutted.

What an amazing sight though. I just stopped and enjoyed the show while it lasted. Last night the Kapiti boys were talking about the blue fin that frequent the area.

I was tempted to continue on to Looking Glass Bay today but thought I would come into Caswell to check it out. And txt Shaz for a forecast. Caswell has a safe and sheltered beach but I still have half the day available. I am tempted to make progress while the conditions are OK. Two Thumb Bay is only an hour paddle away and Looking Glass Bay is 2 hours paddle. Either would be done easily today. The SWly is forecast to increase though. As usual.

I enter Caswell Sound inside Styles Island. The tide is ebbing swiftly through the narrow passage. I push though the calm surface and quickly emerge on the other side of Styles Island into the Sound.

A short paddle around the corner to a steep boulder beach. It is almost low tide.

I spend a while surveying the area. It is very rocky right up to the bush edge. There is no flattish clear ground for a tent; except on, or adjacent to water courses. They are dry now but a weather front is due in the next 24-36 hours.

I relaunch to check the conditions outside of Caswell Sound. If good, I will head for Two Thumb Bay. On the chart, it looks to be more sheltered from westerly swells, with a shroud of protecting reefs at its entrance. On the flip side; I didn’t want any risk of being tied down on an exposed beach. For the sake of only 1 hours paddle gain.

The ocean conditions have deteriorated in the last 2 hours. I decide it’s not worth it, so turned back to the sheltered beach. I discover now that I have left my mooring/tow rope tied to the tree at Deas Cove. Bugger! I have spare rope that will do just fine.

Finding a suitable camp spot takes some time. I wander all over again. There are small sloping grassy spots above the beach but these were either too steep or too close to dry creek beds. I finally chose a flat area of boulders at the top of the beach, as far away from creeks as I can. One currently dry; the other flowing well from the steep ravine behind. I clear an area of boulders and smooth out the sandy base using a piece of driftwood. I knew I could be here a day or two so took the time to set up camp as secure as possible. Ahead of a front that is forecast to blast through. Then it was time to build a fire and settle in with coffee, cheese and salami. Satisfied with progress today and all going to plan.

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Tuesday 09 March, 2021 Caswell Sound

Casually got up at 0730 to a cool grey misty morning. Early cloud movement indicated a moderate NE breeze. The ground was wet and it looked like more rain is on the way.

Decided to make use of the day and head up to the end of the Sound for a look at the old historic Caswell Sound hut. For the 5 hour return trip I just take the coffee pot with flatbread and peanut butter. In sachets. Discovered these little packets of joy while away with Shaz. Perfect for a kayaker; with an addiction.

Hugged the south shoreline and came across a couple of majestic waterfalls. Maybe the best yet. The Sound was calm with an ebbing tide.

Very enjoyable and relaxing trip up to the end of the Sound taking about 2.5 hours. Hugged the shore scouting for deer (or moose!). And checking out the waterfalls.

Consulted my TopoMap to find the exact location of the hut. It is on the left bank just before the first rapids on the river.

The hut is a relic. It’s clearly still in use according to the hut book. There are two bunks with reasonable looking foam mattresses. It’s very dark inside having only 2 small windows. There are tarps and large plastic bags strung up inside against the roof; presumably where it’s leaking. Or where there’s heavy condensation. Even the hut book is wrapped up in heavy plastic. Can’t leave a comment as there is no pen.

I make my coffee inside the hut and enjoy my peanut butter sachets before heading back down the river.

I hug the north shoreline this time. This side lacks waterfalls but has some good landing spots; especially Green Point and a beach opposite Dog Point. The low tide now unveils loads of mussels along the rocky shore. Happily fill up my deck bag.

As I reach Hansard Point, near the Sound entrance, the wind really whips up through the entrance. With a solid grip on the paddle; I sidle across the Sound to my beach.

The fishing vessel “Conchita” happens to be hanging out in the settled waters just off my camp. He has been there for some time as I paddled down the north side. Once I land at camp I make contact with him on VHF Ch 10. He says he is cleaning up his fish before heading outside to rough seas; and up to Milford Sound. He offers me a ride knowing the weather is closing in. After a bit of a chat he offers me a ride again, that I politely decline; again. He says he will be back this way in about a week. If I need.

He eloquently puts things perfectly in perspective. In these parts you must be patient. Be safe. Don’t take risks. Good conditions will always follow bad. Eventually.

It’s time to get out of my wetsuit! A regular event. Surely I have figured out a better transition process by now. I haven’t. I guess getting changed inside the tent would reduce my level of exposure. But the changing process would be awkward and take longer. And I would take sandflies into the tent. And I can’t run! Running doesn’t work really. But the distraction helps.

I just get on with it. No choice. At least this time I am dry in my wetsuit. Dry skin will allow my dry clothes to slip on quicker. It’s still a harrowing few seconds as bare white skin is instantly smothered by gorging sandflies.

It’s cup of tea time with a cheese and salami snack before preparing tea. It’s already 4pm! It’s been a very enjoyable day. Just cruising and exploring. Without a destination to make. Or the constant focus on ocean and conditions.

I steam the mussels open but they are a very disappointing size. Out of 18 mussels I get about 3-4 mouthfuls. I stir them into the saute of garlic and onion before adding a small tin of tuna to bulk it up. Then stir in some Ben’s rice. I don’t taste the mussels. But having some fresh protein is a consolation, I guess.

After a yummy and filling dinner I prepare for what is shaping up be a stormy night. Tent and tarp stakes are checked and everything is put away in dry bags where possible. Hope I get some sleep!

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Wednesday 10 March, 2021 Caswell Sound

That was a rough night. Feels like I was awake for most of it. The tent and tarp took a hammering. Inside, the tent floor is saturated under the air mattress and pillow. Again! I used my microfibre towel a few times during the night to soak up the wet areas and wring it out; outside. Water appears to “wick” through where there is direct pressure on the tent floor and pools in the low points. I am warm and dry though. On top of my air mattress and pillow. But the fringes of my sleeping bag are wet. Where it’s in contact with the floor.

Eventually dawn arrives and I see one corner of the tarp has pulled free. The rain has eased now so I pull on my rain jacket and head out. To re-secure everything. I discover that the tent and tarp have survived the night pretty well really.

The creeks around me are well up but not threatening. I return to my tent at 0830. Soon after, I sense a change outside. It is calm now. But the rain is heavier. A whole different feel.

It continues to rain heavily. I’m motivated now to survey the situation again. There are still no immediate water concerns but decided to do some precautionary diverting of the stream flows. Previously dry creek beds are now flowing. There is likely to be some lag between the heaviest rain and maximum creek flows. I was actually enjoying myself out in the rain!! I was wet from my thighs down but wasn’t cold at all. I got carried away building several small diversions of the water. Away from the general direction of my camp. It became a challenge. Making more, and better diversion improvements. Then improvements on these. After an hour or so working in the rain, I was satisfied that I had significantly reduced the water flow in the direction of my camp.

The rain eased up and by lunchtime the sun was out in all its glory. And on schedule. Focussed now on drying things out and deploying the solar panel. The sun has really brightened things up. The clothes I’m wearing dry quickly on my skin. I use my spare split paddle to lift the tent floor off the ground to help dry it out. My sleeping bag, air mattress, air pillow and towel are laid out on top of the tarp. I make sure the air mattress will not get blown away, into the bushes, where it could easily puncture. That would be a mini disaster for me. My old body would not handle lying on the hard ground very well these days. Often thought that carrying a spare air mattress would be a good idea.

Well, a miserable start to the day turned out to be a cracker afternoon. I wonder what Shirley Falls would look like today! Another level of magnificent, I expect. By mid afternoon everything is dry and charged. I set about my routine of getting everything ready for an early launch tomorrow. Time to re-focus on the journey.

I reflect again on the fisherman offering me a ride yesterday. How much this adventure is as much a mental challenge; as a physical one. Especially here. It’s remoteness. From any immediate help. You are so self-reliant that you had better make the right decisions. Prudent ones. Mental resilience is crucial. Easy said!

Bottom line ……….. I have shelter and plenty of food and water. I am thankfully healthy and fit. Stay safe and enjoy the adventure. You will never be here again.

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Thursday 11 March, 2021 Caswell Sound to Bligh Sound

Up early to decamp and pack under headlamp. A well established routine now for a dawn launch. Things are already laid out ready just outside the tent. My breakfast of muesli is ready. Just add water to my individually vacuum sealed packs of muesli, milk powder and protein powder. Leave it to soak for a few minutes while I pack everything inside the tent. My paddling gear (if dry) is also folded just outside the tent opening and whipped inside when ready to change. When I emerge from the tent I am fully sandfly protected and paddle ready.

There was no rain last night but there’s a heavy dew on the tarp. A cloudless sky at dawn as I easily slip over the boulders and into the Sound. A light offshore breeze greets me at the entrance. A beautiful dawn. Two Thumb Bay and Looking Glass Bay slip by. There is a lumpy sea created by opposing N and SW swells and backwash from the cliffs. But no wind of any concern.

George Sound arrived on time at about the 4.5 hour mark. I’m greeted here by another blue fin tuna work-up. Some big fish jumping clean out of the water. What a spectacular sight. I hope the big fishing fleets never get access to Fiordland.

The entrance to Bligh Sound is another 2 hours away. Looked into an idyllic Catseye Bay along the way. Protected by reefs at its entrance; it looks like an ideal refuge and another stunning area to check out some time.

I considered paddling on to Poison Bay today. Its another 3 hours paddle to its entrance; from Bligh Sound. I txt Shaz to say that that would be my intention if she saw me paddling past Bligh Sound on the inReach tracker. By the time I got to Bligh Sound though; 3 more hours paddle did not appeal today. It would have made a 10+ hour day.

Rounded into Bligh Sound and went over to check out the beach on the north side, just inside the entrance. It’s very exposed to swells from the west and south. Although the shore break looked quite small right now, it was low tide and upon closer inspection the beach had a very steep face through the tide zone.

Decided to move down the Sound to a safer beach at the bottom of a large valley. And what a spot! Beautiful as can be. Couldn’t take enough photos. There was a deer on the beach as I approached.

I risk camping in an exposed spot; knowing that the forecast is good. To enjoy some great views. And a sunset. On my last solo camp of this adventure. There is a beaut stream adjacent. One of the best spots so far. This Sound is very picturesque with many beaches. Would love to return here some day too!

Pretty excited to be seeing Shaz at Milford Sound tomorrow and the completion of the paddle through Fiordland. A dream realised with so many good memories and thoughts. Hugely worthwhile adventure but a region not to be taken lightly. Ever! It’s fitting that this beautiful camp is the last on this trip. A perfect evening and night in Fiordland.

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Friday 12 March, 2021 Bligh Sound to Milford Sound

Another dawn start for a longish day (9.5hrs) on the water today. Well aware that this is the final day of this Fiordland epic.

After a poor sleep, watching the clock all night, I finally rise unnecessarily early, just after 0500, to start the packing down routines by headlamp. Lack of sleep wasn’t a comfort issue as I was on a soft bed of moss. I expect it was anticipation of this final day.

Secala is ready for launch before dawn. At 0645 there is adequate light for a safe launch. Into the safer waters of a Sound.

A soft launch through the boulders at low tide. The usual early morning light breeze is wafting out the Sound. I enjoy the flat water for about 30 minutes before rounding Tommy Point and open waters, as dawn approaches. It’s a beautiful dawn, like yesterday.

I would have loved to stay in Bligh for a couple of days. From what I saw, this is one of the most picturesque of Sounds. Weather dictates everything around here. And so today we must paddle.

Before long I am crossing the wide entrance to Sutherland Sound. The day materialises calm and clear with off shore breezes wafting out the Sounds and Valleys.

As I approach Poison Bay I find myself in another large Blue Fin Tuna work-up. Once again I sit amongst them and enjoy the spectacle. This time I also see what I think is Slender Tuna. These are jumping close enough to me to recognise that they are tuna but like no other that I’m familiar with. Their elongated shape more resembling a very large mackerel but clearly a tuna head with big eyes and beaked mouth.

Poison Bay eventually arrives. It’s slow in coming. There is a tide against me today. And I’m feeling lethargic. More weary than at any other time on this trip. A few nights of average sleep has probably contributed to that. I distract myself by unnecessarily nibbling on my snacks more frequently. And paddling closer to the beach searching for deer. I even start giving myself some positive reinforcement. Out loud! Enjoy every moment; I say. An epic adventure through Fiordland is coming to an end.

When I eventually make the turn into Milford Sound, around Saint Anne Point, there is a satisfied sense of accomplishment and finality. It’s a beautiful day to soak it all up. I rest my paddle to dwell ……. on the challenges, the moments, the amazing places and the people.

I round Fox Point into Anita Bay. A Real Journeys charter boat pulls up and asks where I’ve come from. Passengers are lining the boats rail to gork at the sight below them. I say “Bligh Sound”, to which he seems impressed. There is an ebb flow out of Milford Sound now and I ask the Skipper if its generally a strong flow. He says “Not really”. Not sure how to take that. From a guy on a boat!

I pull into Anita Bay, near Greenstone Point, for a snack and a rest. All my snacks on deck are consumed. I dive into the rear compartment for some flat bread and the remaining peanut butter. In sachets. Yum!

I pull out of Anita Bay and start making my way up the Sound, keeping a lookout for the day charter boats. A reluctant re-entry into civilisation. By the time I arrive at Dale Point I feel an increasing tail breeze assist. The predictable SW breeze has arrived.

In short order the wind ramps up through the narrow steep sided Sound and I am flying along, hardly needing to paddle at all. I’m grateful. Very grateful. To have an easy ride to finish the day. And the journey. I relax and enjoy probably the most spectacular Sound of them all. On a beautiful day. Mitre Peak is sensational and a backdrop of ice covered mountain ranges at the end of the Sound.

I hear Shaz calling me VHF as I round the last Point. The end of Milford Sound comes into view. She can’t see me yet though. Shaz says that I need to head down to Deepwater Basin to exit at a boat ramp. There is no public vehicle access to the ferry terminal area.

And so the Fiordland adventure comes to an end. An epic journey. A dream realised. There are, of course, more adventures to come. But none, I suspect, will surpass this one.

It’s great to see Shaz at the ramp. We load Secala up onto the camper van roof for the first time in 5 weeks. Since Orepuki. A lifetime ago; it seems. In terms of experiences. I can’t believe it’s done. Unbelievable Fiordland!