I had completed the epic Fiordland journey at Milford Sound almost 3 years ago; on 12 March, 2021. The adventure resumes now. The second leg of the South Island circumnavigation up the West Coast. This coast has a reputation. Like its North Island counterpart. I can only expect a 50% paddle day average. My ultimate aim this trip is to clear the West Coast in the time I have available. But I have re-read Paul Caffyn’s and Lynn Paterson’s accounts of their West Coast experiences. There experiences verify that it’s unwise; bordering on arrogant, to presume such an optimistic target.
I have rekindled contact with Paul and Lynn (aka Red) for this trip. Their knowledge and support is so valuable and welcome. (And what an understatement that would turn out to be)
Paul Caffyn
Paul has been the key inspiration for my sea kayaking adventures that started in ernest in 2017. Since reading about his amazing circumnavigation of Australia in the Dreamtime Voyage; I have been captivated by the monumental hurdles he had to overcome to survive such a journey. And this was without the huge advantages that modern communications and technology provides today. The sheer audacity to conjure up this outlandish challenge; followed by the dogged determination and resilience to see it through; was inspirational. A pioneering legend in the world of kayaking.
Lynn (aka Red) Paterson
Not long before this whole NZ adventure began for me in 2017; I became aware of Redz amazing non-stop NZ circumnavigation. I read and dissected her blog. Page by page. On one level her stories told of daunting challenges; dogged resilience and determination. On the other; the sheer beauty and peace of a world that wraps around you like a spiritual cloak. Where you yield to Mother Nature in all aspects of your existence. That you disrespect at your peril.
I eventually mustered up the courage to call her; back then. When I felt worthy. Her strength of character and warmth was enveloping. Like a cloak. From the start, her guidance has been as uplifting as a tailwind; and as sage as an oracle.
Saturday 17 February, 2024 Deepwater Basin (Milford Sound) to Martins Bay
Shaz and I hit the road after work on the 14 Feb to meet the Cook Strait ferry on the 15 Feb. Milford Sound to Jackson Bay takes 3 paddle days. Solo. The best weather window that you can expect in these parts is 3 consecutive days. In a perfect world you would paddle out of Milford at the start of this window. Despite making all haste on the drive down the South Island; I would only have two good days this time. Got to be happy with that. On the West Coast.
We learn from a road sign at Te Anau that the Homer tunnel is closed overnight. Opens at 0600 hrs. Earliest we can hit the road in the morning is 0530 to meet the Homer tunnel opening time.
The day has finally arrived. For both of us. The early starts. The intense scrutiny of weather apps and maps. Plans are made and re-made. Regularly. The only constant is change. Agility is key. And we are out of practice.
We exit the Cascade Creek camp in slumber; and get to Deepwater Basin boat ramp just as the early glow of dawn shimmers above the Darren Mountains to the east. Boaties were queuing up at the ramp. It was Saturday. And the forecast was good.
We set up Secala at the waters edge. To the side of the busy ramp. I have practiced packing Secala in the garage. I have some different equipment this time. Notably a new and bulkier Hilleberg tent. And a new sleeping mat. I will carry a spare sleeping mat now. I had figured through my solo Fiordland journey, that this old man who would struggle without one.
The tent replaces my previous MSR that didn’t handle the Fiordland conditions so well. The new tent is relegated to deck cargo, to free up hull space. I have packed for 8 days solo. For a trip that is forecast to take 4-6 days.
Calm conditions were forecast today and I will enjoy an ebb tide out of the Sound.
The waiting is over. I’m eager to get going. Farewells and paddle waves to Shaz as she pivots her attention on the next few days of her own solo journey in the camper. Towards Jackson Bay.
At 0725 I send the inReach message broadcasting that my trip has started. It’s an overcast and calm dawn. Wisps of cloud hang in the valleys and edges of the Sound.
Mitre Peak dominates the skyline. Returning overnight tour boats hover past the many cascading waterfalls on the north side. I pick up the tidal current and before long we slide past Dale Point to exit the Sound.
Yates Point becomes prominent 12km away. As we eased past the protection of Saint Anne Point, the 1.5m swell announces its presence. The safe haven of the Sounds are now officially over as Fiordland gives way to the exposed ocean beaches of South Westland.
I followed a line of cray pots about 100m offshore towards Yates Point which roughly marks half way to Martins Bay. The shoreline retains the ruggedness of Fiordland albeit without its vertical dominance.
Old habits rekindle. Like noting contingency landings; if the weather changed. There were actually beaches all along the way. The preferred landing before Martins Bay is Kaipo Bay. And it looks larger than I had expected.
The overall trip was calm, uneventful and very enjoyable for the first serious outing in 3 years. Conditions permitted close shoreline paddling; with its breaking shoals. A wonderful way to kick off this adventure.
Leading into today I had a few questions about my paddle fitness and stamina. I am pleasantly surprised with the 40km effort today. There will be sterner tests to come. But I’ll take it.
Glad to come around into Martins Bay at 1430hrs. With plenty of time to set up camp.
The landing was easy enough through a small shore break at the southern end of Martins Bay. Where the rocky shoreline mets the sandy beach.
My surf re-entry routines are exposed though. When I hit the beach I realised that I hadn’t removed my glasses and I hadn’t removed my sipper tube from under my paddle skirt.
I didn’t really notice the sandflies until I stopped moving. When they attached to me in their droves. They don’t appear as big or vicious as the Fiordland sandflies but they number almost as many.
Found a perfect site for the tent among the flaxes a couple of meters from the beach. The only down side was trying to keep the sand out of the tent. During my walk around later; I discover a better sand free tent site, but it is a further 80m along the beach.
The other routines fall into place. Charging batteries with solar panel, eating, sorting gear and taking walks. I don’t find any water in the immediate area. But I didn’t try too hard. I have brought plenty with me. Dusk approaches and the chores are done.
The highlight of every day arrives when all that remains is enjoying the beauty and tranquillity of this remote and idyllic place. To experience the last vestiges of a world still unspoilt by humans. My biggest fear is that some day the adventuring will end.
I look out across the sprawling bay on a wonderful evening. The images are perfect. I try etching them into my brain. Like I did at Green Islets. And Acheron Passage. I know I will never be back.
I read an inReach message from Red. She has checked-in. As supportive as ever. And will be there for both Shaz and I as our adventures unfold. So good to have her on board.
Very content with the first day back after 3 years. Tucked myself into my new Hilleberg tent as dusk dwindles to starlight.
Bedtime routines rekindled. First the sandfly slaughter. Breakfast, water bottle and pee bottle laid out inside the vestibule. Within easy reach through the insect mesh. Cellphone and headlamp at my left shoulder. And drift off to the sound of the surf. On my new luxurious sleeping pad.
Shaz
Morning everyone, Brent launched from Milford Sound boat ramp this morning around 7.30am. We were on the road by 5.30am, the Homer Tunnel was closed until 6am following road works. I’m now back in Te Anau where I’ll stay for the night. It’s so different now the place is buzzing. Shops reopened and tourists everywhere. I counted 25 buses heading towards Milford from Te Anau, crazy!
Sunday 18 February, 2024 Martins Bay to Barn Bay
Up at 0500hrs. The pack down routine of everything inside the tent begins. By headlamp. While my vacuum sealed portion of muesli, milk powder and protein powder softens up in bowl of water.
Nourished and changed into paddle gear; I exit the tent. By now it’s 0600hrs and the stars still lay claim to the dawn sky. What a beautiful day break.
By 0630 Secala is stowed and we launch easily off the beach into the 1 meter shore break. The laden Secala has little freeboard. And is sluggish through the surf. That breaks right over the deck and into my chest. On three successive occasions.
The wet start could not detract from the perfect morning. Calm, gentle offshore breeze wafting out the Hollyford Valley and a cloudless sunrise over the Skippers Range.
In a buoyant mood, I got into my work with more purpose and energy today. There are some mornings that you feel you could paddle forever. A good nights sleep probably helped.
A straight run across Martins Bay to the prominent Long Reef conspicuous with its rock sentinels. Big Bay looms around Long Reef. I have read plenty about it. It is 6km deep and 8km across. From Long Reef to Awarua Point. An exposed piece of ocean. With an earned reputation.
The calm conditions continued around Long Reef as Big Bay is slowly unveiled. Visually, from sea level, the depth of the bay is more impressive than its width. The distance off shore that I will be paddling is a little unnerving at first.
Of more immediate interest is the number of upwellings and shoal breaks just beyond Long Reef. And good size breakers randomly appear in the heavier sets.
As we got a little deeper into the bay, the offshore breeze backed around to the NE and lifted significantly. The short sea chop slowed progress. The going got tough and wet. It’s like Big Bay decided it had a reputation to uphold. No-one, it seems, is allowed easy passage across this Bay.
Conditions eventually improved as Awarua Point approached. The open water feeling of vulnerability dissipates. I swing past Awarua Point as close as I can. As always there are plenty of shoaling areas around these prominent Points.
In my planning for this leg; I had identified two possible landings north of Awarua Point. Hackett River and Ryans River. As I paddled by, I noted that these locations looked like good landings in these conditions.
Aptly named Longrigde Point, is only two hours paddle from Awarua Point. And just 40 minutes paddle beyond that was Gorges River.
Gorges River has long held some fascination for me. I have read and seen documentaries about the Long family who live there. Robert Long for over 40 years.
I was keen to stop in and say hello if possible. This opportunity is not likely to come around again.
The Gorge Islands mark the western approach to Gorge River. In flat conditions I pass easily between the islands and shore. The Long home is easily seen through a gap in the trees.
I hold for several minutes trying to identify the river entrance. There is a line of low breakers before me. I paddle slowly north along the shoreline. Until the entrance opened up. It was low tide. The river bar will be shallow. I lined up where I though the channel would be and shimmied over the bar. There was only inches under the hull. I landed on a stony river bank only 30 meters up river.
I nudged Secala into the riverbank and surveyed the scene. Feeling a little like an intruder. There was no sign of anyone around. No noise. No smoke. The house could barely be seen through the trees. Closer to the river mouth was a wind sock that had wrapped itself around its pole.
Between me and the house were a some punga trees. There looked to be a barely discernible track meandering in the general direction of the house.
I exited and pulled Secala up the river bank and headed through the pungas.
I emerged to be confronted by a high fishnet fence and a tall ramshackle gate shrouded in vegetation. I soon learn that this is to keep the deer out of the veggie garden.
Still no sign of anyone. The large gate was closed and unwelcoming. I still could not see or hear any signs of life through the vegetation. I call out. Twice. I hear movement coming from the direction of the house before a tall man emerges through the gate. Robert regards me with a little disdain. Like I have breached his personal space. Which I have, I guess. He lives in a remote place for a reason.
I quickly explain that I am just passing through on my kayak and thought I would drop in. I tell him that I have read articles about him and his family. Roberts demeanour softens.
Catherine comes breezing through the gate and I readily accept her offer of tea. In their house we sit and talk. Robert sits on a bench at the window. Catherine brings tea and cake and joins me at the table. She clearly relishes the opportunity to chat. An outsider who has stories of his own. I ask about their children. Robert’s attention is spiked. And they both take the opportunity to talk with pride about the accomplishments of Chris and Robin.
The living area of the house is small by perfectly adequate for two. No need to cater for too many visitors. There is more to the house than I can see. But what I can see is a genuine attempt and deserved pride in living sustainably with minimal modern convenience.
Although there are a chasm of stories untold about their chosen lifestyle; I take my leave; siting another 2.5 hours paddle to Barn Bay.
Catherine gives me a shove off the river bank and joins Robert to wave me goodbye. I feel privileged to have met this remarkable couple. Who; in these days of modern convenience, find peace in solitude and comfort in simplicity. It’s a visit that is all too brief.
The short shallow river bar is easy to punch through. With a paddle wave beyond the bar; I set course for Barn Islands that were conspicuous in the distance.
Barn Bay is much smaller than Martins. Yet more visually dramatic with its islands and reefs.
A reef extends from Watson Bluff at the northern end; out into the bay. This provides excellent protection for landing at the northern end of the beach. I landed where the sandy beach meets the rocks of the reef.
I pulled Secala up past the high tide mark. A storm is brewing from the south. I survey the many campsite options. Ideally reasonable flat with protection from the westerly wind. And away from low lying areas that may flood. And preferably not sandy, like Martins Bay.
Eventually settled on a spot next to an overturned aluminium dingy that had been there for a while.
The other consideration was water. There was nothing nearby. But the Hope River was an easy walk down the beach. I had plenty of water until tomorrow.
Spent the evening sitting on the dunes looking out over Barn Islands to a beautiful sunset. More wonderful images to etch in the brain.
A message from Red. She is excited that I have landed exactly where she had.
There is no paddle preparation for tomorrow. The two forecast paddle days were up. Targets have been made. And the body is holding up.
I plan to relax and enjoy a weather day in this beautiful place. Even in a storm. I snuggle into my Hilleberg tent.
Shaz (Sunday 18 Feb)
Evening everyone update on Brent:- yesterday (Saturday) he kayaked from Milford Sound to Martins Bay. His message to me was “All good here except for the sand flies. Tent in the flaxes 3m from the beach”
Sunday:- he was on the water by 6.45am and kayaked a long way from Martins Bay to Barn Bay. He stopped at Gorges river and had a cup of tea with Long’s. If you look them up on the internet Longs from Gorge river you can read all about them living off grid and bringing up 2 children there. I have seen something on TV about them. I spent last night in Te Anau and now I’m in Cromwell for the night maybe 2 nights as the weather is not going to be kind to Brent for the next 2 days. Tomorrow I’m going to catch up with the Webb’s whom we worked for 2 years ago on their orchard. Weather is beautiful here, such a beautiful place really enjoyed our time here!
Monday 19 February, 2024 Barn Bay
The rain started during the night. But not the wind. I was well protected by Watson Bluff to the NW. And I was tucked just behind the crest of a sand dune to take the brunt out of anything from the south and west.
At 0400 I got up to have a pee and I must have startled a deer as there was a loud guttural bark nearby, when I turned on the headlamp.
As the morning broke the wind backed to the SW. The cool and squally rain showers buffeted the tent. Even though I had some protection from the sand dune.
When there seemed to be a break in the weather; I grabbed my water bottles and coffee kit and headed for the hunters hut at the south end of the bay. I emerged from the tent to a very different seascape. The swell was well up, as forecast.
The walk along the beach revealed a very different bay to yesterday. The ocean was wild and brown. The steep beach had menacing dumping waves. The sky was bleak and horizon threatening.
The beach is about 2km long. About a third of the way down the marshland ejects water into the bay. The water looked clean enough but figured that the Hope River with its greater flow, would offer better water. It didn’t. It was running brown after the rains. I was surprised as I figured this was a mountain river.
The hut was vacant and locked. A look through the windows revealed a real character setup. And well decked out with solar and gas. The airstrip outside the door was in need of some TLC.
Since I had no water to make a coffee at the hut, I headed back up the beach. Marsh water would have to do.
As I headed home I watched a very dark horizon approaching over my left shoulder. I had 2km to walk. About 20 minutes. It was obvious that the horizon was gaining on me. I started to run. In the soft sand it was actually a combined run/fast walk. While carrying full water bottles and dry bags. The squall was almost upon me. Rain drops were wetting the sand and stones. And I was still 50m from the tent. Breathing hard now; my run was petering out.
The buffering wind was just touching down as I scrambled into the vestibule of the tent. Where I hunched as everything about got lashed with squally rain. This was the story of the afternoon. Outside was no place to be.
I did enjoy watching about 20 Hectors dolphins though; working the shore break within 20m of the beach.
Cozy and warm in my Hilleberg with coffee and Em’s cookie and Kindle. And the sandflies had hunkered down too.
Tuesday 20 February, 2024 Barn Bay
It blew hard from the SW into the night. Accompanied by frequent squalls of rain.
Daybreak revealed a calm bay but noticeably cooler. And the swell was up big time. Huge breakers right across the bay. It would be foolhardy to attempt a breakout in these conditions.
The high tide at 0900 might see an opening. If I could get out of the Bay, the paddling would be fine.
Had coffee and muesli watching the surf. Hectors dolphins were frolicking in the shore break within 5m of beach. Sandflies were scarce in the cool morning air.
As the sun warmed the air, the sandflies returned with the familiar “tap dancing” on the outside of the tent.
Then another sudden change. At 1100hrs the wind had ramped up from the SW to 30kt. And really cold. After a beach walk I tucked up into the tent. The sandflies were tucked up again too. The wind continues to escalate in the afternoon. The bay is full on messy now. Went for a walk around the rocks at low tide looking for paua. Thinking that there would be easy pickings. But the conditions made it hopeless. Forecast is better for tomorrow.
Shaz. (Monday 19 Feb)
Evening everyone, well not much to tell you tonight as the weather for Brent has been awful! He sent me 2 small messages:- 7.30am “Glad I’ve got a good tent. It’s pissing down here”. 2.10pm Ok. It’s pretty stormy here but ok”.
It has been a lovely sunny day in Cromwell, but a little windy though! Got some lovely fresh fruit from Webb’s orchard, some yummy peach’s, apricots and green gage plum so good! Nice to catch up with a couple of people still working there. Checked out my favourite cafe Fusee Rouge, still good and have the best cheese rolls ever! Tonight I’m staying at Lowburn freedom camp (free), should have come here last night never mind. Looks like I’ll stay another night here in Cromwell as I don’t feel like paying Wānaka prices. I’ll get up early on Wednesday morning and drive over to Jackson Bay; just over 3 hours away, all good though! Hopefully the weather will be better for him then.
Shaz. (Tuesday 20 Feb)
Evening everyone, messages from Brent today as follows:-
7.45am Huge swell this morning. No way out at the moment.
9.03am Ok storm last night. Fine today but heavy swell in bay. Can’t get out through the surf even if ok outside. By tomorrow swell should have dropped enough to get out. Otherwise should be nice day here. Been watching a large pod of Hector Dolphins in bay just 20m off the beach.
11.14am Been for walks along the beach to see what the storm has washed up. The wind has picked up again quite strong and very cold. Back in the tent for a while.
12.14pm Wind has really picked up now. Swell map report was right Shaz. Sunny but very cold.
4.16pm The wind is really strong here now 30+ knots. Swell high too. Hope it changes overnight especially the swell, are you in Haast now?
Well as you can see I changed my plans and decided to come over to Haast today. I’m staying at a POP (park over property) just a gold coin donation for the local St John’s, great idea. It’s sunny here and a nip in the air but very pleasant. Hopefully Brent will get out of Barn Bay tomorrow and get to Jackson Bay where I’ll meet him
Wednesday 21 February, 2024 Barn Bay to Jackson Bay
Dawned a beautiful clear crisp morning. The tent is heavy with dew.
I was in no rush to launch today. Even though the storm may have passed; I knew a decent swell surge would remain through the bay. I needed good light to suss the breakout.
Everything was pre-packed for launch yesterday. From a distance; at an obtuse angle, there was a hint of a gap in the reef break. A closer inspection was required.
The reef between Watson Bluff and Sugarloaf Rock completely absorbs the swell surge. The launch is easy. The same reef extends to the south of Sugarloaf Rock but is more submerged. The swell lifts and breaks heavily over and around it.
From the south, the Hope River bar extends its breakers. They appear to join hands with the Sugar Loaf reef break.
Parallel with the beach, inside the seemingly endless line of breakers, is a channel of deeper water. Where the swell height is still significant but does not break.
I paddle within this zone to explore the breakout options. With only a couple of seconds at the crest of the swell I try to get a read on the line of breakers. I sit through several swell sets. Eventually figure there is enough of a gap for a breakout. With luck. Knowing that a larger set could come along at any time.
I assess my time to pull the trigger; and put the hammer down. I clear the break zone; but can’t really be sure if other breaks lurk behind. I continued to sprint for a couple of hundred meters just to be sure.
Relieved to be out. I send the routine inReach message. Next stop; Shaz at Jackson Bay.
Besides the swell, the sea conditions were fine. Breaking shoals should be the only concern.
As Cascade Point approaches an albatross swings by. Another moment of admiration for this wonderful creature.
Cascade Point is aptly named. Sheer cliffs with waterfalls tumbling over them. Majestic and picturesk.
The cliffs continue east for a couple of miles. I stay as close as the swell bounce back permits. It’s really sloppy. Both hands lock on to the paddle.
I approach the rocks to the east cautiously. I figure I can go inside them well enough. And ride a couple of nice waves through the gap.
A very memorable section of coast. Even though they were still in morning shadow.
The unsettling bounce back subsides; as I find deeper water on the path towards Smoothwater Point.
I was quite weary by the time Jackson Head came around. The tide had a part to play in that as well today.
Around the corner and Shaz is waiting by the camper.
There was a good sense of satisfaction that the first key solo leg was now completed. And in good time. The new gear has passed the test. With flying colours. And the body is performing well after the 3 year hiatus.
Most importantly, the journey has resumed. It has been missed.
Shaz. (Wednesday 21 Feb)
Evening everyone; Brent was on the water by 6.59am this morning, somehow he made it out and paddled all the way to Jackson Bay. He’s very tired and now in bed, complaining about all the noise 😂 around here! Lots of boats are going out to put their cray pots out!
While I was waiting for him to come in I went for a walk through to Ocean Beach to see if I could see him coming. Sure enough after a 20 minute wait he came around the corner. Couldn’t get a close photo of him, but a nice one of the bay though.
Thursday 22 February, 2024 Jackson Bay to Haast Beach
Todays forecast was too good to miss. Even though I had just linked up with Shaz again.
A beautiful dawn revealed streaky cirrus invading the sky; giving way to alto at the horizon.
Nice to be back to a cruisier launch preparation from the camper. And I would only have a fraction of the gear to carry with me now.
The plan was to head for Haast Beach. Where there was beach access. I had no idea what surf conditions to expect. But there aren’t many good options north of here. You simply had to deal with whatever the ocean delivered.
I had previously asked Red about Mussel Point as a landing option. Which is about half way to Haast. Her response was brief and on point ……#@***^#……..(Translated) Mussel Point wouldn’t be an option. In any case, the forecast was too good to limit it to 3.5hr paddle. Days like today had to be taken advantage of.
I set off at dawn; with Shaz prepped to wave me down at Haast Beach.
The first hour was flat and easy going with a gentle off-shore wind on the starboard beam.
Open Bay Islands are the only clear reference point on this uniform stretch of coast. They are 25km away and slightly on my port bow. There relative movement will be oh so slow for the first few hours.
The off-shore slowly backed around to a NE headwind and gradually increased to 12-15kt. The associated chop reduced my speed down to 2km/hr for the next 3 hours.
In the middle of the Bay a cray fisherman #608 detoured to come alongside to take photos. Not a common sight I guess. To see a kayaker in the middle of the Bay.
Finally reached landfall at Okuru where the river outlet created a messy sea state for a few hundred meters. Open Bay Islands are now abeam. The shoreline is nasty. Heavy dumping conditions along this stretch of coast.
Thankfully the shore break appeared to settle down, as I got further north along Haast Beach.
Hector dolphins joined me for a couple of km just outside the shore break zone. They are quite tiny; especially the juveniles. And playful in a reclusive way. Like shy children around a stranger. I cherish their company.
When I think I’m getting close to the Haast Beach access; I turn on the VHF and try to make contact with Shaz. We make contact; and my first question; as usual, is “Can you see me yet?”. I think I am closer than I really am. According to her the inReach tracker says I have some way to go yet!
There are no markers on the beach to indicate the access road. And there is no cell coverage here. Eventually I spot Shaz’s yellow flag waving.
She keeps waving the flag though. Even though I’m only 100m straight out in front of her.
I am weary now. It’s been a tougher day than expected. Thankfully there is an easy shore break. Unlike what I observed off Okuru. And a smooth dry landing.
Shaz is still waving the yellow flag. Which I now realise is as much for the sandflies; as it was for my benefit haha.
It would have been nice to stay camped at the beach for the night as there is another good paddle day forecast tomorrow. But Shaz’s enquiries with DOC revealed that camping was not permitted there.
We loaded Secala and gear and headed for the Haast Motor Camp for the night.
Shaz. (Thursday 22 Feb)
Evening everyone, well it’s the end of another day! Brent left Jackson Bay at 7.22am heading to Haast Beach to meet me for lunch and then maybe continue on a bit longer! However thats not what happened 😂 Before he left he said it was estimated to be 5 hours 54 minutes hours, but ended up taking 7 hours 20 minutes. His overall average speed 4 kilometres per hour, very slow compared to 6 kilometres per hour normally. Due to head winds and choppy seas. Haast Beach was dumping waves onto the beach, but Brent being the pro that he is coped very well. So he called it a day and we are now parked up in a holiday park (very expensive one + $4 for washing and $4 for the dryer) never mind. Brent will be back at it tomorrow morning and make the best he can as the weather is turning bad over the weekend. I went into Haast today to get some bread, there was nothing left at all. So I asked were they expecting any today and he said they only have bread delivered every Tuesday and Friday. We have it good at home thats for sure. I asked him how the locals get on and he said they put in a regular order for the week and freeze it.
Friday 23 February, 2024 Haast Beach to Whakahopai River
Back out to Haast Beach from Haast Motor Camp. The access to the beach is a 50m walk through the scrub. As always, I head straight out to survey the surf. Yesterday’s shore break was easy enough. Coming in. Getting out can be a different beast altogether. Thankfully not much had changed overnight.
Loaded up Secala with Shaz’s help and perfectly executed the launch through the small shore break into the calm water beyond. This is the first fully exposed ocean beach launch so far this trip. But it’s easy today.
Today could be a very short day or a very long one. Whakahopai River has an access road down to its river mouth. And is only 4.5hrs paddle. The next accessible landing was at Bruce Bay; another 6 hours paddle past Whakapohai.
The weather is forecast to deteriorate during the day with a storm coming through tomorrow. The next couple days would be off the water. I discard Bruce Bay as an option today.
Whakahopai River is the target destination. The key unknown was the condition of the road down to the river mouth. After launch; the plan is for Shaz to drive ahead to check this out before returning to rendezvous at the Ship Creek lookout. Which is 3hrs into my paddle north. Where we would discuss the options over VHF. Ship Creek would be the alternate landing option if Shaz found issues with Whakahopai.
I set off along Haast Beach which continues uninterrupted until it reaches Ship Creek at Tauperikaka Point. The monotony is broken by the welcome return of Hectors dolphins closer to shore.
Shaz waves me down at Ships Creek. She has discovered that the road access down the Whakapohai River to the beach had been washed out half way down; by a flood. A couple of months ago, according to local residents.
The choice was either to end the day at Ships Creek after only 3hrs paddling; or continue another 1.5hrs to Whakahopai River.
It was a line call. The benefits of continuing to Whakahopai were that the landing; and re-launch, were likely to be easier than Ships Creek. And I would be 1.5hrs further north. Every hour gained now; can be very advantageous down the track.
The downsides were the unknowns. I had no idea what the river bar, surf or shore conditions were like at Whakahopai. I would have to stash/hide Secala somewhere for a couple of days. Secure from swollen river and potential pilfering. Then walk up the river to meet Shaz.
I decided to take the punt. On to Whakapohai River while to going was good.
The paddle north from Ship Creek was amazing. The extension of Haast Beach ends here. Rocky formations feature along the steep shoreline past Seal Point, Arnott Point and Knights Point. The low swell and calm conditions meant I could weave through these formations along the way. A fascinating and enjoyable paddle.
Shaz makes VHF contact at the Knights Point lookout carpark on the cliffs above.
I see a couple of small pontoon boats amongst the rocks. With divers on board. And wondered where they had launched from on this remote stretch of coast.
With high anticipation, I navigate the rocky shoreline that shrouds the Whakahopai river entrance.
I round the headland to discover a beautiful and easy entry into the river. It was high tide. Coincidently. As a consequence the river entrance was wider. And deeper. The river bar was mellow. What a welcome conclusion to the day. A hard right turn and up the river a couple of hundred meters until it braided. There were signs of a recent flood. Large uprooted trees occupied the middle of the river. And the river bank has been scoured in places. On the river bank near the mouth were a couple of 4×4 utes with trailers. The boats I had seen had clearly launched from here.
Knowing rain was on the way, I pulled Secala well off the river. On the inside of a large bend. I also want to leave Secala out of sight. Losing any gear would be annoying.
Secured everything inside and tied Secala to a tree. Rain was forecast. But not in flood proportions. I hope. And she would have to survive a couple of days.
With a dry bag full of my more valuable equipment, I set off to find Shaz. Figured I’d leverage the local knowledge. And followed the 4×4 tracks up river. Making river crossings where they made them. Until I reached their river bank access up onto the road.
Another kilometre and there was Shaz waiting on the roadside near some dwellings. That turned out a lot easier than expected. An adventurous and satisfying day come to a close.
Off we went to Lake Paringa for a couple of days to see out the weather.
Shaz. (Friday 23 Feb)
Sorry everyone for not updating you lately, some places have hardly any internet or none at all! Anyway here is an overall update of Brent’s kayak progress.
Brent left Haast Beach and was heading for Whakapohai River mouth, I was to meet him at Ship Creek to give him an update of whether it was possible for me to get down to the river or not. So I drove to the road that lead down to Whakapohai river and stopped at the first house I came to as it appeared to be a private road with signs that said NO motorhome day or night. I drove down it anyway! I spoke to the old fellow there and he said it was a good thing that I stopped as the road had washed out last month due to river flooding about 100 meters down the road.
Back to Ship Creek and report this to Brent via VHF, he decided to proceed anyway and would walk out to where I could meet him. He tied up the kayak way up off the river bank in a grassed area, then walked out to the old guys house where I was. The weather for the next 2-3 days was out of the question to paddle, storm coming through. We stayed at Lake Paringa for the next 3 nights.
Monday 26 February, 2024 Whakahopai River to Hunts Beach
We are both up at 0530 today. For the 20km drive back to Whakahopai River. Followed by the stroll back down the river to Secala.
I had checked on Secala yesterday. After the rain. And replenished the water and food for todays trip. Probably to Hunts Beach all going well. Our rendezvous point would be Bruce Bay. 6 hours paddle away. And possible exit if necessary.
I wasn’t sure what to expect at the Whakahopai River mouth today. It was dead low tide. And the swell would be up significantly too. Predicted over 2m. After dropping me off to wander down the river; Shaz would have to go back to Lake Paringa for cellphone reception. To receive my inReach message. To know if I had got out safely. Or to figure out if I hadn’t.
I half paddled and floated Secala downstream. The river mouth was much narrower. And too shallow to paddle.
I sized up two alternatives. One was off the steep beach through some hefty shore dumpers. The other was closer to the slightly more protected river mouth with a much more chaotic swirling surf. I chose the later. More predictable. Despite the swell; the sea conditions were good. I only needed to get about 20m off the beach to be clear.
With a little luck; a successful launch. It always seems easy when it’s done.
The stunning rocky coastline continues past Abbey Rocks to Tititira Head. Beautiful small sandy beaches tucked in between the rocky cliffs are exposed now at low tide.
On the way across to Heretaniwha Point a very large fish jumps clear of the water ahead of me; and summersaults in the air. I figure it’s a mako by the unstylish nature of the breach and re-entry. Any kind of dolphin would be much more elegant.
As I rounded the prominent Heretaniwha Point into Bruce Bay a light SW breeze set in.
Bruce Bay was going to be our rendezvous comms checkpoint. And a possible exit. If the surf conditions were good. I was concerned that the surf conditions could make Hunts Bay challenging for both an entry and exit. The key consideration being the exit tomorrow.
As Bruce Bay opened up I fired up the VHF. Despite several attempts, there was no reply. There was about 3.5km between us. Which should have been OK with line of sight. I reached for the cellphone thinking Bruce Bay must be an important settlement deserving of 21st century services. No reception there either.
I made the executive decision to continue around Makawhio Point to Hunts Beach. Just 1.5hrs paddle away. I would just deal with the surf conditions that Hunts Beach served up. As usual.
I figured Shaz would see what I was up to from the inReach tracker. Little did I know that Shaz was having challenges keeping up with my location due to the lack cellular coverage. She had to keep driving and back-tracking to find coverage.
Approaching Hunts Beach I tried again in vain to contact Shaz via VHF. And no sign of her on the beach with her yellow flag.
The landing looked ominous. There were a set of breakers 150m from shore as well as a tumbling shore break. The beach looked to have a shallow slope. After a lengthy observation I sussed a gap between the outer breaks. Getting through that was the key objective. I would deal with the shore break when I got there. I timed my run through the gap well and rode the shore break before a controlled broach onto the beach. I was saturated but well satisfied with the safe landing. I looked out momentarily and tried to figure out how I would break out tomorrow. The state of tide would make a big difference. An assessment best left for the morning.
As I dragged Secala up the beach, Shaz appeared. She had had an adventure of her own trying to keep track of me. The camper was conveniently located at the top of the beach. There were a couple of houses nearby. There was no-one home at either house to ask if it was OK for us to stay. We decided to stay anyway. Laid all the get gear out over the driftwood and enjoyed a beer. It’s always so good to be able to park overnight wherever you land.
Shaz. (Monday 26 Feb)
Up early before sunrise to get to the river mouth so Brent could get on the water. I dropped him off and headed back to Lake Paringa. There I waited to make sure that he was able to get out OK and recommence his kayaking. At 7.49am got the email from his iReach to say he was on his way. He was determined to get to Hunts Beach today! I was waiting at Bruce Bay for him to go past but never saw him. Another place where there was NO internet, so drove back down the road to get some internet and saw that he was about to arrive at Hunts beach oops 😬
I got there and he was walking up the beach asking where have I been 😊. It took him 6.5 hours, which is 37km.
Anyway walked around the houses to ask if it was ok to camp the night at the beach. I walked to 3 houses where people were living but no one home, weirdly the next morning still no one around! So we just parked up and settled in for the night anyway!
Tuesday 27 February, 2024 Hunts Beach to Okarito
The tide was further out on the shallow sloping beach this morning. The outer breakers looked menacing. But there was still a gap to exploit. The same one. And a good enough hollow behind the shore break to sit and time the breakout.
An easy enough launch through the shore break despite getting a drenching. And timed the run through the outer breakers to perfection. Starting to feel a little cocky. My paddle fitness was returning. And my surf nouse has been flawless, so far.
Todays forecast was a light 10-12kt NE headwind; which would be OK unless light turned to moderate. Today is already a big day. 10 hours. Pesky headwinds could push my limits. I had loaded Secala with gear for a random overnighter if by chance I couldn’t make Okarito today. The was only one beach access at Gillespie’s Beach before Okarito. And this had a bad reputation.
Conditions started of with a light offshore before backing around to the NE. Thankfully it remained below 10kt.
I had an amazing time with Hectors dolphins today. They joined me off Gillespies Beach and stayed with me way into the bight past Galway Point. In typical fashion, their approach is like a timid child. Most often the appear at the limit of your peripheral vison. Or approaching from behind is common. When you are subtly alerted to their presence by their “blow”.
Once they are with you, there is an irrepressible urge to lift the pace. To engage with these beautiful mammals. To entice them to stay. For as long as possible.
So far this trip they have engaged in relatively small groups. Seemingly always in pairs. Or multiple pairs. This time I had upwards of 20 around me. They would take turns to approach from behind and criss cross in front of the bow. Then swim under and around Secala. They seemed so playful. Curiously their nose never seemed to break the surface. Just their blow hole and their back. Enough to see their ghostly grey underside through the water.
Without realising; I had kept up a decent pace for nearly 2 hours. Such an uplifting experience.
I decided I should stop. But not from weariness. There was so much more paddling left in the day that I needed manage myself better. I stopped paddling for a snack. And, more importantly, some fluids. In less than a minute the Hectors were swarming around me en masse. Maybe concerned for my welfare! More likely that they had lost their source of entertainment. And then, in a heartbeat, they were all gone.
I hoped that they would return as I resumed paddling. Alas, they didn’t.
The ocean turned grey with glacial water as I passed the Fox and Franz Joseph estuaries.
Fox glacier was very distinct from my ocean view and Mt Cook peeked out of the clouds occasionally.
As I made my final course change at the Waiho River some weariness set in. With the high tempo paddling and a slight head wind for much of the day.
I was on the home straight now with only 2 hours to Okarito. The wind had finally backed around to the NW making life a little easier.
Was pleased when Okarito came into view at Kohuamarua Bluff. We had stayed at Okarito before. I knew there was a dumping shore break even on a good day. And there were outer breaks to deal with as well. Yesterday’s 2m swell was predicted to increase. I prepared for a hard landing.
There was good cell coverage here so called Shaz. She had arrived at the campsite. I waited for her to come to the beach. To find a good landing spot and wave me in. There wasn’t one.
I packed everything down and battened the hatches. My pack down routine was well sorted now.
I decided on a spot a couple of hundred meters south of the lagoon outlet. And to my surprise managed to time my run well enough for a safe landing.
Shaz. (Tuesday 27 Feb)
Brent was on the water early heading for Okarito, big day! I left as soon as he did! Just didn’t want to be at Hunts beach on my own, weird feeling!
So I headed for Fox Glacier. Wouldn’t you know it, nothing opens until after 8.15am. So I waited until Neve’s opened, ordered some breakfast and coffee. What to do now; so I parked up and saw a sign that said Lake Matheson 6km so decide to go and have a look. Heaps of tourists down there, Americans and Chinese by the bus load! I decided to do the walk to the View of Views lookout – 45 minutes. You look across the lake to Mt Aspiring and Mt Cook, they were visible surrounded by cloud though. I ended up walking around the whole lake 1hr 15min. That deserved a coffee at the cafe.
Then I headed for Franz Josef to do all the home cores, empty waste water & toilet, fill water tank, rubbish, recycling, top up diesel and do some shopping as we were getting low on supplies.
Then headed for Okarito. We have been here before! There’s plenty of internet there 😊 yeah, just makes life easier with regular updates on Brent’s whereabouts.
Brent came in 4.45pm, he paddled for 10 hours today and travelled 56km. He said that he was followed by a pod of dolphins for a good hour and half. When he stopped to have a bit to eat and take some photos they swam around him in a circle and under the kayak before disappearing. Okarito campground is really nice, with nice hot showers for $2, clean toilets and friendly hosts. It’s more like a DOC camp with upmarket facilities.
Great to see you are back to into it! Has been a lovely read thus far.
Thanks Tristan. It really was a wonderful trip. Made special by one Paul Caffyn.
Great to see you’ve been back on the water. You are an inspiration to us mere mortals, and a great source of information.
Your compass – what model is it? And would you get this one again?
Cheers
Martin C
Hello Martin. It is a Seattle Sports brand and has served me well for many years. Cheers Brent