This next phase of our journey north along the West coast will be accentuated by river entries at the Grey, Fox, Buller and Little Wanganui; AND the spine chilling surf of the Karamea Bight. The highlight though, will be the influences of one Paul Caffyn.
Thursday 29 February, 2024 Okarito to Waitaha River
It took a couple of days for the swell conditions to eventually subside off Okarito. Plenty of time to observe. And gauge the tidal influence on the outer break.
It was going to be low tide for launch. Todays swell forecast is 1.4m. Otherwise conditions were calm. In fact there was quite a thick fog giving only 50m (max) visibility in all directions.
Once again, the launch turned out easy enough through the shore dump. Easier than it should have been.
After the sprint out the back of the surf zone, I stopped to send the usual inReach message. Only then did I realise I had paddled into the middle of a “pea soup”. There was no visible shoreline. Or horizon. My only earthly reference was the sound of the surf somewhere behind a foggy cloak. And the filtered orb of the rising sun. An eerie feeling.
The trusty magnetic compass is permanently attached to the foredeck. For exactly these circumstances. I set Secala on the NE heading; with an added increment to the west. For comfort. My course confirmed by the sound of the surf, and the rising sun; now on the ‘right’ side of the bow.
After an hour of paddling blind, the fog slowly dissipates. And a light NE ruffled the surface. Just in time to observe a good amount of shoaling between Waitahi Bluff and Abut Head. My compass course had been perfect. Keeping me comfortably behind the surf zone. With visibility returning, I edge closer to shore.
As Abut Head approach the NE increased to a pesky 10-12kts. We glided easily over these conditions until the headland was abeam. Where the winds escalated further. As they do. When compressed. The subtle increase to 15kts has a significant impact on paddle comfort and progress. Secala is now ploughing through the chop rather than riding over it.
I increased the tempo rounding Abut Head. The body was warming up now. And feeling strong. The morning aches had faded. Just as well. This was shaping up to be a longer day than expected.
Once around Abut Head, I searched the conditions across the bight towards Wanganui Bluff. The next significant landmark. I would normally take the 15km point to point route. But the sea conditions weren’t going to be any easier out wide. White caps looked more numerous.
I decided to hug the shoreline around Abut Head. Put the chop further round the port bow. Sacrifice the direct route for better progress. And the comfort of the beach.
The grind continued for the next 3 hours. Until past Wanganui Bluff. A few Hectors dolphins made a welcome distraction along the way.
Conditions eased back as Greens Beach approached. Enough to pull out the phone and check for cell coverage. One bar reception. I dialled and to my surprise Shaz answered. In these parts it’s lucky if you both have cell reception simultaneously. We only managed to talk for about a minute before one of us lost signal. She said that she could not come down the Greens Beach access road, as the locals had said that only 4WD vehicles could use it. I suggested that I could still land and walk out to meet her. Like at Whakapohai …….. then we lost signal.
I studied the map. My other option was to continue to the next road access. At Waitaha River. Only another hour or so paddle up the beach. We hadn’t discussed this option though. I quickly tapped out an inReach message to Shaz. And hoped she would find reception soon.
A cruisey 7.5 hour paddle day had now ticked over 9 hours. But the conditions were back to ideal now. Another hour or so tacked onto a 9 hour day in these conditions; would be a breeze.
Everything worked out well. Shaz had got my message. And was there waving her flag on the northern side of the Waitaha River mouth. An easy landing. And a convenient freedom camping area at the top of the beach.
Behind the scenes Shaz had quite a story to tell. Not only with communication issues; but falling into quicksand no less. And seeking out some comfort and advice from Red Paterson.
Shaz. (Thursday 29 Feb)
Brent was up early and on the water by 6.56am heading for Green Beach just north of Harihari. I spent most of the morning at Okarito camp before heading to Harihari. Stopping for a coffee and asking the locals about the road to Green Beach. Is it accessible and ok for a camper van to drive on? Young guy said ‘yeah no problem, you’ll be right’; another lady at the counter said different! Ok now what, so asked someone else and they said “no, don’t do it unless you have a 4X drive van”. Well no I don’t. I needed to contact Brent as he is headed for Green beach, and was going to walk up at far as the fork in the road to meet me but problem is I won’t be there! This lady told me that I could go down Wanganui Flat road and drive right to the end and reach him on the VHF. So off I go got to the end of the road and walked down to the beach. I tried ringing and texting also! Anyway I’m walking along following someone else’s foot print when suddenly I was in very soft sand up to the top of my thigh,; and fell forward. My phone and VHF went into the wet sand. Don’t panic 😱 I kept telling myself. You have to get out of this. I knew those survival programmes on tv would come in handy. Get one leg out at a time, easy does it. Nice and slow and out came my leg then the next one. Even manage to retrieve my shoe 😊!
Got back to the camper, cleaned myself up a bit and set off back to Harihari. I didn’t want to worry anyone at home so text Lynn Patterson (she’s the lady that has also circumnavigated NZ) and asked about how to best get hold of him. She rang me back and we had a talk and I felt much better after that. All I could do was keep on trying to ring him or text; so I did. He eventually rang me back and he decided to go on further to Waitaha River.
Brent was saying when he left this morning it was foggy, however he managed to get straight out but couldn’t see where he was going for a bit. It was hard work today as he was in a head wind most of the way. Once again today he had dolphins swimming along side of him. Today he paddled for 10.5 hours, a distance of 52.4km. We are able to freedom camp here by the river which is nice, along with a few others.
Friday 01 March, 2024 Waitaha River to Hokitika
I was approaching Paul’s Caffyns “territorial harbour limits”. It was time to escalate the TR’s (Trip Reporting). Paul lives at 12 Mile. Just north of Greymouth. Just two paddle days away. We were about to meet for the first time.
Just before we set off from New Plymouth towards Milford Sound, Paul happened to be in Hokitika and had done a reccie for the best landing spot:
“My suggested back marker for you is the domed top of the catholic church, topped with a cross. On the beach, it is also the northern end of a big granite rip rap seawall extending north from the river mouth; and the start of just sand beach. That may be hard to see from seawards but the cross should be obvious”.
The preferred paddle options today were Hokitika (37km) or Greymouth (72km). A 6.5 hour paddle or 12.5 hours. I took the easier option. Even though there was a favourable SW forecast. I wasn’t on this trip to challenge any personal records. (My personal daily distance record stands at 74km – Glinks Gully to Waimamaku River; Kaipara Coast).
We would be in Hokitika for a few days. A storm was brewing offshore.
The morning revealed an easy dumping shore break with the swell at only 1m. An easy start to what should be an easy day. A camp at the beach is always so much more convenient. An easy surf. A gentle SW in the forecast. And a short 6 hour paddle. Happy days!
On the water and around the distinctive Bold Head. The landscape opens up all the way to Hokitika with featureless lowlands. Tucked behind a continuous west coast beach. A gentle 8-10kt SW breeze developed. Nice to feel the wind behind the left shoulder. The first wind assist so far this trip. It had the subtle effect of nudging me closer to shore though. And closer to the outer surf break. Occasionally had to make a radical turn seaward as the sets of breakers extend further offshore. Especially around Mikonui and Totara River mouths. There were some thunderously heavy shore breaks between Ross and Ruatapu. Even in these low swell conditions.
I aimed for the outer extent of the Hokitika River bar. Multiple lines of breakers that would be impossible to negotiate without some good local knowledge.
For a change though, I was arriving in familiar territory. We had stayed in Hokitika before. I knew some of the landmarks north of the river. And I knew where the best landing was. And Paul’s advise had backed that up.
I had made good time in the following conditions. With an average 7.0km/h. The camper was an easy pick up at the end of the rip rap seawall. Shaz was in her conspicuous red top and yellow flag.
There was a reasonable shore break. A left hander that wrapped around the end of the rip rap. I observed the landing zone for a while. Shaz was waving her flag in exactly the right spot. Where the seawall gave way to the beach. The shore break would push me further north along the beach.
I timed my run well. Picked up the break for a fast ride in; past a couple of shaka waving surfers.
A storm was brewing off the coast. With 6m swells predicted. A few days of “lock down” is always to be expected on the West Coast. Just like the North Island West Coast …… you can only expect a 50% paddle day average on this coast.
Shaz. (Friday 1 March)
Today Brent is heading for Hokitika beach. On the way there I’ll do my usual chores in Ross. Been there before. First thing to do in Hokitika is fill the gas bottle, as a lot of places do not refill gas bottles only do swaps!
Next off to the wool shop to get some knitting supplies for the grandkids, then Supermarket for top up of food! Time for a coffee before going to the beach to meet Brent. I went to Thatcher & Small and as I went to pay for a coffee and a lemon & coconut muffin, the lady said that’s $5.20. She told me that the coffee has been paid forward by SPS Plumbing Services; score 😊👏!
I see Brent is getting close now so head off to the beach, sure enough here he comes! His time was 5 hours 24 minutes and a distance of 38.1km.
Tonight we are going to stay at a KiwiCamp, with our new KiwiCash card. I got it from the Information Centre in NP, you rock on up to one of these places with you card and swipe $20 to stay the night. If you don’t want to stay, don’t take you vehicle in; but you can use the facilities with your card for Shower $3, washing machine $5, dryer $5, wash the dishes 20c for 2 minutes of hot water, not sure how much power was as we didn’t use it. So anyone can use it so long as they have a card, great for young travellers who are freedom camping. Great location easy 4 minute walk into town, we had dinner at a Thai restaurant really nice food too! Tomorrow we will go to NZMCA Park for a couple of nights as the weather is turning bad.
Thursday 7 March, 2024 Hokitika to Greymouth
While waiting out the storm in Hokitika, I caught up with Paul by email and we discussed landing options around Greymouth. My intentions were to head for a beach landing at Rapahoe. Where I could tuck in behind Elizabeth Point if the surf was up; and where there was a beachfront camping ground.
Paul suggested that the Grey River or Cobden Beach (just around the north mole) were also options. The Greymouth options were only a 6 hour paddle; whereas Rapahoe was a further 1.5 hours north.
An early start today. Keen to get going after a 5 days sojourn in Hokitika.
The high tide and moderate surf didn’t leave much beach to launch off. And the surf break was messy with a strong tow northwards. The same that I had experienced on arrival. Once through the shore break though, the exit should be fine.
Again, with a bit of luck, I managed to get out well enough. Although I did get hit in the chest by a green wall of water, jolting my back and neck back as far as they could go. Happy to be out and on the move again.
The forecast suggested a light following breeze. Instead I got the opposite. Northerly headwinds the whole day. In the 10-15kt range. Just strong enough to make it a steady grind. The south flowing ebb tide for most of the day didn’t help either.
By the time I got within sight of the Grey entrance I was approaching 8 hours on the water. Two hours longer than predicted. I was ready to call it a day. I called Shaz on the VHF when about an hour off the Grey River moles. Shaz acknowledged and the next thing I heard was Paul offering advise on entering the Grey. “You can enter the river close in to the south mole. Then hug the mole up river for 200m before crossing to the wave trap”. What a moment. The great legend of kayaking offering advice on how to enter his home port. Not likely to be advice that I ignore. It was low tide and I had no idea what conditions to expect. I have seen some savage video footage of what the Grey bar can look like; on a bad day. Clearly this was not one of those. But the Grey is a big river with a decent flow. I hoped Paul hadn’t over estimated my strength.
I approached the South Mole with some anticipation. To my relief it actually looked fine. Once through the initial surge at the entrance, it was a straight shoot up river. As close to the mole as I could.
Paul and Shaz were observing from the end of the North Mole. Once I cleared the entrance they raced back to the wave trap. I hugged the inside of the mole and inched against the flow. Within 50m or so of the entrance; the going got easier. I continued up river until I heard Paul on the VHF ushering me across to the wave trap.
With his camera poised; I rode a wave straight onto the beach in front of him. And as the wave tumbled ashore behind me, I braced into it and nearly took Paul’s legs out from under him. Full credit to his agility.
Awesome moments to have Paul there to guide me on to the beach. Unbelievable. Paul invited us back to 12 Mile for a memorable evening of discussions, stories, maps and recommendations.
Shaz. (Thursday 7 March)
Sorry for the late update, it’s been a busy few days. Up early so Brent can get on the water this morning, and took a video that I have sent you all. So nice to be out of Hokitika and on the road again.
When I left Hokitika I headed for Kumara beach to wait for Brent to come by and make contact on the VHF and sight him out at sea. While I was there Paul Caffyn rang me! Paul Caffyn circumnavigated NZ back in the late 70’s, kayaked around many countries also. He has written several books of which Brent has read, and his passion for kayaking grew. Paul lives at 12 Mile Creek and wanted to be at Rapahoe when Brent came in. I told him that he wasn’t going to make it as it was hard work out there today. He asked where I was and came and met me there. When we eventually made contact with Brent.
Paul advised Brent where to come in at the river mouth, hugging the seawall on his left hand side and then come across to the first wave trap up the river. It was a little hairy but he made it!
It was so nice to see them meet for the first time. It was great for Brent to meet Paul like that, Paul made such a fuss of him and was taking photos also. He explained that he wanted to write and article for the Greymouth Star and also the Christchurch press!
He invited us back to his place for a meal and chat about his experiences/travels. He’s a very incredible man and had the most interesting life. Google him … it’s very interesting reading. We were able to stay at the end of the lane where he lives overlooking the Tasman sea.
Brent paddled 36.8km in 8 hours 8 minutes; a long hard days work as the chop was against him all day.
Friday 8 March, 2024 Greymouth to Woodpecker Bay (Fox River)
A combination of factors contributed to a later start today.
We needed to travel back to the Grey River from 12 Mile. Where we had stayed the night outside Paul’s place. And we didn’t want to do that too early and risk waking up the friendly neighbours. So we waited for daylight. And none of the usual paddle prep had been done last night.
In my favour though, was a high tide time of 1000hrs. So in theory at least, conditions across the river bar should be at their best.
We drove down to the Cobden Tip (north mole) to look at the river entrance and bar. Apart from the usual surge and messiness where rivers meet the sea; it all looked good enough to me.
Finally set up and launched at the wave trap by 0900. There were good size dumping waves at the wave trap. But once again managed to time it perfectly off the beach and into the river flow.
Once out of the river, the confused surface lingered for an hour until clear of the limestone cliffs at Elizabeth Point.
Shaz was heading back north to be with Paul at 12 Mile. To see me paddle past. I was really looking forward to paddling past 12 Mile to offer a symbolic paddle wave and nod to acknowledge my inspiration into the sea kayaking world. A magic moment talking with Paul over the VHF as I passed by.
The coastline Bluffs continued past 12 Mile to 17 Mile where they eventually gave way to the 15km long Pakiroa Beach. These long beaches can be mundane visually if staying out wide. But do offer a chance to relax mentally; as the sea state becomes much more predictable. A good paddle rhythm assisted by a light following breeze. Secala was making good speed. Rare moments to enjoy.
Barrytown was the only significant landmark along Pakiroa beach, that continues to the aptly named Razorback Point.
As Razorback Point approached the shoaling amplified the swell sets to alarming levels. Time to snap out of the malaise. Antennars are up. Eyes wide and seaward now. Adjusted course several times to meet the swell sets as they approached. Some of them breaking only 10 meters behind me.
I maintained a good distance offshore past Punakaiki and Perpendicular Point. Kaipakati Point and Seal Island were only an hours paddle ahead. Seal Island projects north from the Point offering good lee shore protection into Woodpecker Bay.
This bay is regarded as one of the best landing “offerings” on the West Coast between Greymouth and Westport.
As Kaipakati Point approached, the wind picked up; with bounce back and elevated swell. The sea state became very messy the closer I got. The rounding of Seal Island looked ominous. It was another low tide arrival. And these were spring tides. Breakers and rocky outcrops were everywhere across Woodpecker Bay. In the direction of the Fox River.
I sat outside the reef break off Seal Island to size up my approach and landing options.
My preference was to get as close to Fox River as I could. Even paddle up the river, if possible. Straight up to our camp site. Although, on this tide, any kind of river bar would be shallow.
From my position, the shoreline was a mass of rocky outcrops. Fox River mouth was completely obscured. And there were lines of breakers to negotiate if I wanted a closer look. It was one of those places where you needed someone ashore to guide you through the breakers and rocks. Especially for a first timer.
Paul’s recommendation was to tuck in hard behind Seal Island where the best protected landing would be found.
I timed my run between Seal Island and its reef break, into much quieter water. Paul was right. The closer in behind Seal Island, the better. But this was a long way (1km) from the Fox River. Where Shaz would be parked at the DOC site with the camper.
I opted for a landing somewhere in the middle. It wasn’t the easiest landing spot but was much closer to the river. And, most importantly, one that I could see and gauge for myself.
I lined up an approach towards a very narrow strip of sand between some rocky outcrops. It was a shallow sloping beach; with a long tumbling shore break. I aimed for the middle of the tiny stretch of sand. The key was to avoid the rocks. As I got closer to the beach, numerous submerged rocks became apparent. These could definitely be niggly. My focus diverted to rock avoidance. And in the blink of an eye the shore break caught me off-guard and flipped me in thigh deep water. Fortunately missing rocks on the way over. The first capsize this trip. And quite unnecessary. Very annoying.
I pulled Secala well up the beach and set off to find Shaz. She was waiting on the other side of the Fox River a couple of hundred meters away.
I returned and dragged Secala to the river and paddled up to the campsite.
Ironically, after all this; I would find out later from Paul that from the best landing spots in Woodpecker Bay (behind Seal Island); there are a couple of short (steep) tracks that lead up to the main road. And I could have landed and left Secala just above the beach and walked a kilometre down the road to the camp. Pauls local knowledge would soon come in very useful for the Woodpecker Bay exit.
Shaz (Friday 8 March)
We were up early and drove back to Greymouth so Brent could launch. It was a bit hair raising watching him get out of the river mouth; big waves one after the other! Not sure how he does it, but made it look easy; he has great control and patience. He is heading for Seal Island today, he was hoping for better conditions today after yesterday!
I messaged Paul and said that his launch when well and that he was on his way. Paul asked me to stop in for a cup of tea on the way past as he wanted to get some of my photos that he could put on his computer for his record of Brent. I ended up being there for nearly 2 hours!
The reporter from the Press rang me just before getting to his place, asked me a few questions but really wanted to talk to Brent and asked if he would contact her later.
I think the angle of the story is the fact that Brent is 65 years old and doing this! I think that is what amazes Paul the most is his age!
Paul said that he would come and see Brent come in at Seal Island and get some more photos.
Brent made it in super quick time today unlike yesterday. But didn’t land at Seal Island but closer to Fox River, but it was so rough that he came ashore where even I couldn’t see him. After a while I saw him pulling his kayak along the beach towards me on the other side of the river. He said that he would paddle up the river to the Fox River Freedom Camp where we were staying the night.
As I was about to leave for the camp Paul pulled up, so he followed me to the camp ground.
Paul and Brent talked for ages, then he had to leave as he was singing at the Pancake Cafe in Punakaiki tonight. He said that the article will be in the Greymouth Star Saturday morning.
Greymouth to Fox River 50.2 km 7 hours and 2 minutes
Saturday 9 March, 2024 Woodpecker Bay (Fox River)
Today was a funny old day.
Ideally my next destination would be Westport. A 7.5 hour paddle from here. But Cape Foulwind was in the way; and the afternoon forecast was for strong SW winds. I had heard many stories of this Cape. Its reputation was well established. With me, at least. I was not going to round this Cape in less than ideal conditions.
To make use of the good morning weather, I decided to target Nile River instead; which was only 3 hours along the coast. With a short day planned there was no rush to launch. And the high tide was at about 1030 hours.
At the Fox River mouth were the usual series of breakers to overcome over the bar. Got through the first couple before being up-ended on the third. And my skirt didn’t survive the impact.
I wasn’t all that motivated to give it another go. There was really not enough to be gained by getting to Nile River. It was only going to shorten the paddle to Westport. And the surf conditions were unlikely to be any better there anyway.
Tomorrow’s forecast was good though. For the rounding of Cape Foulwind. Needing to maximise my chances of getting out of Woodpecker Bay; I took Paul’s advice and relocated Secala. Near where I had landed; but further back in the lee of Seal Island.
We drove Secala about a kilometre back along the road to a bush track that Paul had described in detail. The track was so steep that I used some rope to tie off to trees and fence posts; and gradually lowered Secala down the track. A novel method of getting to a launch site.
The launch would definitely be easier from here. A couple more shuttles up and down the track with gear; and we were set to go tomorrow.
The walk back down the road to the Fox River camp offers great views of Woodpecker Bay. I checked the Bay out at various states of tide. Spring tides were still with us. The breakers across the bay where still daunting; even at high tide. At low tide, there were multiple sets of large rolling breakers stretched right across the bay starting at the northern tip of Seal Island.
I suggested to Paul that I would most likely have to wait till mid-tide, at least, for the power in the breakers to diminish sufficiently to attempt a break-out. And hopefully a slightly improved swell forecast tomorrow will help.
In the meantime, Paul had arranged for his long time mate, and kayaking legend, Conrad Edwards, to drop into meet us at Fox River while on his way from Nelson to 12 Mile (with a kayak on his roof). Had a beer and chat with Conrad before he continued his trip to Paul’s place.
That evening, Paul and Conrad had “hatched a cunning plan” between them. They would follow me up the coast and spot me off Constant Bay. Then from Westport, Conrad would launch out of the Buller and meet me somewhere near Cape Foulwind.
All hinged on a successful break-out tomorrow.
Shaz. (Saturday 9 March)
Brent was up later today as the weather conditions were marginal, he went and had a look then decided to have a go! He paddled up the river and I walked quickly across the road to see him go out. He was sitting in the river watching and waiting! I had my phone and started to video when he started to paddle out it look awful to me, scary in fact! But off he went watching and reading the waves, then move forward only to come back, then forward up and over the waves! However they came closer together and bigger and then he got smashed and was turned upside down in the water! He came up beside the kayak, but the waves just kept on coming it was like watching him in a washing machine! He was having trouble getting out of that spot! He eventually made it ashore and he was ok thank goodness. He said that the current of the river and sea was so strong it was hard to get out of it! The German lady standing next to me panicked 🫨 yelling “the kayak is upside down, where is he, where is he”. I said that he’s ok I can see his helmet with his GoPro on top, she relaxed then 😂!
He will try again later; see how it goes! Nope it didn’t happen, conditions were really bad! He said that he would later load the kayak on the van and drive back up the road near Seal Island and take the kayak down to the beach through this steep goat like track with ropes for support 🤷♀️! Only Brent, I’d would have waited another day! Anyway Paul messaged Brent to say his friend and kayak co-paddler Conrad Edward’s (they paddled together in Greenland and several other overseas expeditions) would like to come in and meet him as he was on his way to Paul’s place.
Conrad arrived with his kayak on top of his vehicle. Conrad is another interesting person, he is off to British Columbia in June to do solo kayak adventure there! After a beer and interesting chat he left. We went up the road to drop off the kayak. While he was up there we had good coverage for phone calls so he rang back the reporter and had a chat. This article will appear in the Press on Monday.
Sunday 10 March, 2024 Woodpecker Bay (Fox River) to Westport (Buller River)
I strode up the road at 0700 to check the conditions in the Bay. The tide was two hours into flood. The bay looked good enough to launch. Much better than yesterday at the same state of tide.
I set off down the steep track to check on Secala. All was well. But I decided to move Secala a further 50m along the beach. Where there were fewer rocks to negotiate during launch. Which also happened to be at the bottom of another beach access track.
I emailed Paul my intentions. I would launch soonest. Which would be about 0830-0900 hours. By the time I had made a return trip to camp.
The launch was easy through a small shore break. I aimed for the northern tip of Seal Island where there was a good enough gap to squeeze behind the breakers.
I waited until safely out past Seal Island before sending the inReach departure message. This would be Paul’s cue to hatch his “cunning plan”.
The cliffy coastline from Woodpecker Bay until past Charleston gave plenty of swell bounce-back. Scattered rain hugged the foothills occasionally spilling over the shoreline. And the usual light off-shore breeze prevailed.
Approaching the planned rendezvous point at Charleston I made several calls on the VHF to no avail. (Turns out Shazas VHF wasn’t charged!) Unknown to me; Paul was waving from the clifftop lookout and yelling “cuuwee’s” at the top of his voice. I did actually hear the “cuuwee’s” on the water but hadn’t linked them to Paul. All made perfect sense later, and no surprise when I learned that it was Paul.
The sea state smoothed out when I cleared the Charleston cliffs. I cut a direct track along Nine Mile Beach towards Cape Foulwind. The paddling was pleasant with Hectors dolphins occasionally keeping me company.
As I closed in on Tauranga Bay, the swell amplitude ramped up significantly over the shoaling. Constantly peeking over the left shoulder now at the on-coming sets. Cape Foulwind came into view as I rounded Wall Island at the north end of Tauranga Bay. It’s prominence matched it’s reputation.
Charts show a good deal of foul ground extending north from the Cape to Black Reef and the Three Steeples. The foul also extended eastward 2-3km to Kawau Point and the offshore Gibson Reef.
Paul’s advice was to hug the Cape. I did; and gradually over the next 30 minutes gradually made the radical 90 degree course adjustment from North to East; towards Westport.
I am on the lookout for Conrad now. The swell height through the gap between the Cape and Black Reef is significant. Numerous random areas of breakers are revealed as each set rolls through. Surprisingly and thankfully there is no wind off the Cape. I keep scanning for Conrad. There is only a few seconds at the crest of each wave to cast a view ahead. And Conrad needs to be on a crest simultaneously. A bit of a lottery. Within those same few seconds I’m also trying to weave a pathway through the shoals.
Then…….. 200 meters or so on my port side, I spot a kayak. Momentarily. It has to be Conrad. He appears to be sitting in the lee of Black Reef. I try calling him on VHF Ch 6. As discussed. No reply. Line of sight could be the issue. I refocused on getting through the shoals and hopefully flatter conditions beyond. Where visual or VHF contact with Conrad would likely be easier.
The shoaling and associated breakers intensify as I try to run between Kawau Point and Gibson Reef. The line of breakers from the Point extend out to me from the shore, while Gibson Reef is breaking on my left. I decide to make a radical turn to port to skirt around the outside of Gibson Reef and deeper water. This is also the general direction that I last saw Conrad.
Outside Gibson Reef, the seas flatten out considerably. I can make out the Buller River entrance on my easterly course.
I spot Conrad again maybe kilometre away and directly ahead of me. He appears to be heading back to the Buller River. I know he has a to get back on the road and be in Nelson before dark. I try to contact him again on VHF. No reply. Although the amplitude of the swell sets have moderated; I don’t see Conrad on the water again.
I make contact with Shaz to see if she’s seen or heard from Conrad yet. She hasn’t. He was far enough in front of me when I last saw him; that I figured he should have arrived by now. I’m concerned. And strongly considered calling the emergency services. Survival time in these waters would not be long.
As I get closer to the breakwaters at the Buller River entrance I see a continuous line of breakers in front of me. I make contact with Shaz on VHF. Then Paul comes on and explains that the river flow turns easterly when it exits the north south orientated breakwaters. “Paddle east to round the end of the breakers; and cut back in”
It’s close to low tide now. And still a spring tide. I keep paddling east, past the river entrance, until I reach the end of the breakers that demarcate the shoaling northern side of the east flowing river.
I make a 180 degree turn back into the river flow as instructed. There are lines of breakers either side and ahead of me now. The deeper river flow is relatively smooth.
My intentions are to keep paddling back towards the river entrance; between the lines of breakers, and size up a landing on the beach, closer to the breakwater.
I tell Shaz what I’m thinking. She says that the river entrance itself is OK and not to land on the beach. This contradicts what I can see. Which are breakers all around the entrance. But I know she is in the best position to assess the conditions. I take her word for it. If Shaz says it’s OK; it must be like a lake.
By the time I get to the entrance Paul and Conrad have joined Shaz on the east breakwater. I enter the Buller hugging the breakwater and paddle hard against the river flow until I reach the wave trap about a kilometre up river. Meanwhile Paul and Shaz have raced back down the breakwater to meet me as I land. Paul is camera ready. And he has the beers ready. Legend. I spot Conrad driving down the breakwater and makes haste to Nelson before dusk. (His headlights are on the blink)
Paul pulls out the obligatory beers and we discuss an eventful day. The exit from Woodpecker Bay; VHF fail at Charleston; Shaz taking a tumble on the walking track; the cuuwee shouts by Paul from the clifftops; the rounding of Cape Foulwind; failing to meet up with Conrad; Conrads swim at the Buller River bar.
Conrad had an eventful day too. Complete with a re-enter and roll at the Buller River bar.
Paul leaned in with a twinkle in his eyes and whispers; “Conrad came out of his kayak Brent. That’s going to cost him a lot of beers”.
It’s been an amazing day. And it’s time to farewell Paul at the Buller River wave trap. A truly amazing man.
Behind the scenes Paul is kindly profiling our trip to the press with stories and photos.
Shaz and I finished packing up and headed north 48km to Mikohinui (Gentle Annie Seaside Camp) for a couple of nights while the weather abated. Mikohinui would be my next paddle destination. And a chance now to have a good look at the landing conditions ahead of the paddle. Always worthwhile if the opportunity arises.
Shaz. (Sunday 10 March)
Brent had a later start today, he first went for a walk around 7am to check out the launching spot up the road where he left the kayak. He messaged me at 8.11am saying ‘It’s good to go’, so he came back and got his gear on and then set off back up the road. I finished my breakfast and shot across the road to see him go by! I messaged Paul to see that he got his inReach message from Brent. He said they were heading to Westport around 10am. Once I saw Brent go by I knew he was safely off, unlike yesterday!
My time now, I’ll go and check out the Fox River Market which was right next to the freedom camping spot. Great market, small but lovely and really nice people there. The guy making coffees was a character, chatting away to everyone and his wife telling him to stop talking and hurry up as the long queue was growing 😂. I got my coffee and headed for Charleston. I was in the car park getting ready to go for a walk along the walkway to the cliff edge at Constant Bay. Walked around the corner and there was Paul Caffyn, didn’t realise he was going to be there too! Oh well we walked together (it was about a 20 minute walk) just chatting away when I lost my footing a slipped, ending up on my butt in a small gorse bush, ouch 😩 😂 just as well I have plenty of padding! Paul helped me up, I was so embarrassed it must have looked a sight! Walked out of bush to this beautiful view of the Tasman Sea and there was Brent just down in front of us. I called him on the VHF but he didn’t answer, he must have it turned off. Paul walked to the edge of the cliff to get some photos of him, waved his bright yellow hat and yelled out to him! He was telling me that this is where they go rock climbing on these cliff faces and the caves below! Is there anything this man doesn’t do, amazing! As Paul came back from the edge Conrad turned up, then Brent called on the VHF. I went to answer him and the VHF died, bugger! Just as we were about to walk back to the car he rang on the cellphone as he saw someone on the cliff top waving!
They drove off to Westport as Conrad was going to kayak out and meet Brent; then paddle in together. I had to get diesel, my usual chores and go to Mitre 10 for a couple of things. Not today though as Westport shops are shut! I went to a cafe for some lunch, along with everyone else as there were only a couple of cafes open 😂.
I went off to NZMCA park and reserved as spot before going to the Buller River mouth. Conrad rang me and asked me where Brent was roughly, I told him he was at Tauranga Bay. Conrad was at Cape Foulwind, he said that he needed to come back as he had to get back to Nelson before dark.
At the river mouth I caught up with Paul and asked if Conrad got back ok and he said that he wasn’t back yet. I would have thought that he would have been well back by now, so we started looking for him! Brent called on his VHF as asked if we had seen Conrad and we said that we hadn’t; and just then I saw him with the binoculars thank goodness! We had no way of contacting Conrad to say which was the best way to approach the Buller River as it was pretty rough. He came in and got rolled by a wave and was upside down for what seemed ages, then he popped up.
He eventually managed to upright his kayak and got back in. By this time he drifted a little way past the river mouth and was able to come in on a better angle. Paul went off the see that he was ok, but talked to Brent and told him the best way to come in. Brent went way past the river mouth and then turned and slowly came in like a pro with no problems.
Brent paddled 47.8 km, in 8 hours 10 minutes, he was slogging hard into head wind all day he said.
Tuesday 12 March, 2024 Westport (Buller River) to Mokihinui Beach
There was paddle procrastination today. The weather forecast was OK. The launch out of the Buller River should be fine. The only issue of concern were the predicted swell conditions. That were forecast to escalate significantly throughout the day to 3.0+ meters.
Eventually decided to launch. Not wanting to waste a good paddle day.
We drove 48km back to the Buller river from Mokihinui Gentle Annie campsite. A quick reccie at the end of the eastern breakwater showed the river bar was still OK. The swell hadn’t escalated too much yet!
At the wave trap, we were loaded and launched by 0925hrs. LW was 2.5 hours ago so there was a little more water over the bar compared to my arrival. Out the entrance and hard right turn east with the river flow.
The Karamea Bight extends further eastward from Westport before sweeping north. Once I cleared the river bar, my direct course towards Mokihinui would take me further offshore; before merging with the coastline again. At its furthest I would be 6km from shore.
The distant shoreline offered no directional guidance. There was rain obscuring the hilltops. I took a punt on a compass course and added an easterly increment to ensure I didn’t overshoot my destination. Hoping for a landfall near Hector.
It was mundane deep water paddling for the first few hours. As I transited the Karamea Bight. Sea conditions were light but on the nose. The NEly steadily escalated to 10-12kts. For the next 4 hours. Not enough for a nuisance sea chop.
As we slowly merged with the shoreline, clusters of houses suggested that I had hit the mark. Soon to be confirmed by the conspicuous red Ngakawau coal terminus.
When I got within 1km of the Hector shoreline the ocean swell really started to crank up. Alarmingly. I was 5 hours out of Westport now. We were an hour or so past high water. I was concerned enough to start counting the swell sets. Begin the familiarity process. There were 6 significant waves to the set. The 5th wave being the monster. The easy inattentive deep water paddling was now firmly tucked away. Eyes were seaward most of the time. Often; as a set rolled in, I had to paddle hard to meet the on-coming crests. Rising up the steep face and flop over the crest as it was about to break.
Being so close to monster waves as they break has a fearsome audible sequence that is nerve jangling. At first there’s the loud crackling as the fully formed wave starts to lose structure. This transitions into an equally loud swishing as the wave succumbs to gravity. And finally the roar of defeat as the wave disintegrates into a boiling mass of dissipating energy.
To be caught up in one of these monsters would be less than ideal. And while still hundreds of meters offshore.
These sets continued to escalate for the next couple of hours. I was very close to my destination now. Just south of the Mokihinui river. My body was literally shaking at the prospect of being caught up in one of these monsters. The swell predictions were correct.
I made contact with Shaz via VHF. From her view the horizon looked the same. No clear pathway through the breakers. But the north side of the river looked marginally better. I agreed. My observations from our stay at the camp suggested the north side was better. Shaz lined me up. Then it was all down to me. I sat and waited for a couple of sets to roll through. To assess and maximise my window of opportunity. The window was small. The only control I had was when to commit through the huge outer break. After that it was just a case of dealing with whatever came my way. It was about mid ebb tide now. The outer break was not going to improve by procrastinating.
I pulled the trigger perfectly. Completely avoided the out break and had a fun ride on the intermediate breaks. Topping 28km/hr. Nice way to complete the day and mighty relieved to be safely ashore.
Shaz. (Tuesday 12 March)
Packed up and gone from Mokihinui camp around 7.30am back to Westport. Drove down the Buller River breakwater so Brent could checked out the river mouth. Then back down to the wave trap where he came in. No Paul today, just us! I’ll miss his company and support that I’ve had over the last 3 days, such an interesting man.
Brent launched at 9.23am from the river trap and headed off for the river mouth. He said conditions were ok but messy until you’re out of the river mouth. Then a light wind was against him for the next 4 hours. So the paddle overall took him 7.5hours rather than the 6.5 hours if conditions were good.
I went to buy the Press, to see if the article was there but it wasn’t in again today! I headed off to find a spot where I could see Brent and make contact. I do this by following him on the inReach tracker! I could see he was off the coast by Birchfield, so I found a road (Cains Road) that went down to the beach. OMG, it was so rough the waves were rolling in one on top of the other. I couldn’t see him anywhere, he would have had to be way off shore as the breakers were way out! Tried the VHF; nothing. Tried the cellphone nothing! So I just kept on tracking him and drove through Granity and almost to Hector. I just sat there for about 1 hour; then finally saw him way way out, I’d just get the odd glimpse of him as the swell was so big he would disappear. At Hector they have a Dairy so got myself a ice cream and brought one for Brent and put in the freezer. Drove about 2km past there and pulled over to see if I could see him again. Sure enough there he was briefly before disappearing again, so I tried the VHF; nothing. So rang him on cellphone and he answered (yeah) he was fine, told me to go onto Gentle Annie and get set up as he needed me on the beach to guide him in. Booked in and set up camp. Looked at the tracker, still plenty of time before he’s due here.
I rugged up, got the binoculars, VHF, cellphone, yellow bag and a beer and set off for the beach. There is a picnic table on top of this little hill giving me enough of a view to see out wide! He called me on the VHF and asked where to go, I said that he needed to come further across from the river mouth. Didn’t matter where he went as it was awful and was most likely going to get trashed! Once he got to where I thought he should turn and make his way in it was all on, no turning back! I had to run along the beach as he was way past where I was, I couldn’t see him anywhere! Had my phone out ready to video him, but where was he! Then all of a sudden he came over this wave he looked like he was flying, I quickly pushed record! OMG, it was hair raising stuff watching him on shore, but it looked like he was having one hell of a ride! He managed to control the kayak the whole way no problem, not sure how he did it to be honest.
Distance 39 km 7 hours & 28 minutes.
Thursday 14 March, 2024 Mokihinui Beach to Little Wanganui River
Another procrastinating day. There were different strategies running through my mind.
Normally I would launch from here for an 8 or 9hr paddle. Probably to Kohaihai Bluff. But getting off the beach at Mokihinui was a problem with the surf and tide. And Kohaihai Bluff was not a recommended destination choice; from all accounts.
The other option was to do a shorter 3hr run to Little Wanganui Bluff where the launch windows would hopefully be greater with a river exit and a good lee provided at Little Wanganui Head. A launch base here would provide a better opportunity to paddle right past Kohaihai Bluff; and its fearsome reputation.
The other factor at play was our plan to be in Christchurch by the 22nd March. Which meant my last paddle day would be 21st March. Only 7 days from now.
There are 4 solo paddle days from Kohaihai; around Farewell Spit to Separation Point. Three at a pinch. The chances of the weather and sea gods providing 5 good paddle days out of the next 7, were very very slim.
The other option was a two day solo paddle to Paturau River. The next road access point. The plan would be to paddle from Little Wanganui to Wekakura Point (9.0hr) or Seal Bay (11.0hr); then to Paturau (7.0hr or 5.0hr respectively). But Paturau River is a very long drive from Kohaihai for Shaz. And a longer drive out to Christchurch immediately after.
Physically, I was ready to launch! Mentally was another matter. The plan ahead was unclear. Ultimately the forecast over the next couple of days would dictate our progress. I decided to declutter the mind and just focus on today. Let’s get launched first; then worry about the destination.
Yesterday was a write-off due to both swell and wind. Today we just had the swell to worry about.
Once off the beach and outside the breakers; the conditions looked perfect. LW was at 0800 today. And the outer line of breakers looked particularly menacing.
I decided to wait for the flooding tide to hopefully take the heat out of them. I walked down to the beach every hour or so. Secala was on the beach ready to go. Noon arrived and we’re 4hrs into the flood tide. The outer breakers had mellowed but still packed a punch. Unfortunately the rising tide had reached the steeper section of the beach and caused a dump where there was none earlier. If I got the entry wrong it would likely hurt. But I had handled much worse shore dumps. I figured that the odds were in my favour.
I set myself and Secala up within the dumper wash. As is often the case with dumpers; the wave wash up the beach hits you at an angle. It is often difficult to keep a kayak pointing straight out. Before I could blink, two successive waves spun Secala 180 degrees. I was now pointing up the beach!
I reset. A little further up the beach this time. The doubts crept back in. Full commitment was wavering. Then a larger wave came all the way up to meet me and I was suddenly afloat. I flicked the switch. And was all in now. We got sucked down the beach and through a smaller dumper. Thankfully. Then out and over the next one before it was fully formed.
The horizon looked ok. I took off at a 45 degree angle from the beach. The angle that I had figured would take me around the outer break. And, with an ounce of luck, it worked. Somehow I had contrived the smoothest possible exit in the circumstances.
By the time I was clear and on my way it was 1300hrs. Too late to consider the 8 hour paddle to Kohaihai today. I confirmed Little Wanganul River on VHF with Shaz and we were off. Good to leave Mikohinui behind. Although it was a great little camp ground.
The sea conditions were smooth. The coastline was limestone cliffs all the way providing some swell bounce back.
At Little Wanganui Head a reef extends a little to the north. The Little Wanganui river runs tight in behind the Head and reef. Pauls advise is to hug the Head closely and paddle into the river.
The key is to find the interface between the swell breaking over the reef and the deeper river channel. There is usually a sweet spot depending on the height of the tide. It is 1.5hrs after high water. Hopefully enough to water for an easy entry. I sit just outside the reef break and wait for the lull. Then I tuck in round the reef and into the river channel. Easier than expected.
I get a clean run in and have to paddle hard for about 200m up river before crossing over to Shaz on the north side of the river.
We stay the night on the river bank. I check the river at low tide. The river is actually very small and the tide goes a long way out. There will be no way to avoid breakers at the river bar at LW.
Shaz. (Thursday 14 March)
This morning we were off to a late start as conditions weren’t good. Brent wanted to wait to see if it was any better with the tide coming in! We went over to the The Cowshed and had coffee and muffin, then Brent checked on the beach once again. He’ll wait a bit longer!
After lunch he checked once again and said that he was going to go for it! Crazy 🤪
Before launching he watched the waves and swell timing and counting them to see when would be best time to go for it! To me it looked like it didn’t matter when he went he was going to be trashed. Once he decided he was committed, he sat in his kayak watching and just had to go for it! He said it was fifty fifty chance of getting out, probably one of the harder launches he has done. However, not sure how, but he made it out 👏
Originally he wanted to go as far as Kohaihai Bluff; an 8 hour paddle, and the end of the road for me! However due to leaving so late he came in a Little Wanganui River. Coming in at high tide into a river and not to much of a problem, would have been different if the tide was out. We will camp here tonight, Nice little spot and friendly locals.
Gentle Annie to Little Wanganui short paddle 18km, 2 hours 53 minutes
Saturday 16 March, 2024 Kohaihai Bluff
Monday 18 March, 2024 Little Wanganui River to Kohaihai Bluff
We had relocated to Kohaihai Bluff DOC camp. A lazy start to the day. Not expecting to paddle at all. The plan was to leave Little Wanganui tomorrow for Wekakura Point. A longish 9 hour paddle and there was forecast headwinds. Not much; but it didn’t take much to extend a 9hr paddle to 11+hr. Thought I would check Kohaihai again at a spot a couple of kms back from the DOC camp. It had a gentler sloping beach and no significant shore dumpers. Better than at the camp end of the road. Then we set off to Little Wanganui River to see if I could get out at dead low tide (low swell). Looked easy enough.
The loss of the last few days due to weather had realigned our thoughts. I wasn’t going to make it around Farewell Spit now.
If I was to progress past the end of the road at Kohaihai, I could extract myself at Paturau River in 2 paddle days. And in time for the travel to Christchurch. This would mean Shaz having to drive a very long way and along some long narrow gravel roads.
Closer inspection of the forecasts hinted at northerly winds up the coast. We didn’t want to consider the prospect of not getting to Christchurch on the 22nd.
So that took away any option of progressing past Kohaihai this trip. With that in mind, I decided to launch for Kohaihai today and finish the trip off.
Launched at lunchtime for the 5 hour paddle. The morning had been very calm on the water but the forecast showed SW 15-20kt this afternoon.
I dragged Secala over to what remained of the river at low tide. The river bar looked OK. Just the occasional couple of waves breaking around the reef.
Paddled down river seeking protection behind the reef until I felt it was best to run the gauntlet through the small breakers.
Shot out behind the outer line of breakers off Karamea Beach while the wind steadily picked up to 20kts. It was straight shoot along a continuous beach. There was little of interest on the shoreline. I picked out trees by which I could monitor progress. Thankfully some Hectors dolphins joined be for a couple of hours. They frolicked in the waves and around the kayak. Loved having them around. The other bonus was that I was making good speed; however was not an enjoyable paddle in the rough conditions.
Shaz guided me in at the spot we had identified a couple of k’s south of the Bluff. As I got in closer to the beach; a good wave inevitably caught me. Broached well enough and stayed with the powerful wave for quite some time as it propelled me ashore. Then, close to the beach; the energy of the tumbling wave fell away suddenly and I didn’t recover quick enough. A thrilling end to the day and the trip. Dragged Secala back to camper van and off to Kohaihai for the night. Still contemplating when and how I will get off this beach when we come back.
Shaz. (Monday 18 March)
Brent wants to check out what Kohaihai is like today and then decide what to do next!
So we went from Karamea to Kohaihai, then drove back to Little Wanganui as it might be ok to launch from there today. Arrive around 11.15am, he pulled the trigger and it’s go go go! The wind got up while he is preparing to leave, but said so long as it stays in that direction it’s all good 👍. The wind did change slightly and got up to 20 knots but it was in his favour as it was coming over his shoulder!
So now I have to drive back up to Kohaihai. Stopped at Vinnie’s cafe for coffee and lunch on the way.
Drove down to the beach by the aerodrome to see if I could see him or contact him on the VHF, nothing! The wind was blowing the sand from the beach into my face, felt like I had a mouth full of sand. Gave up and moved on up the road toward Kohaihai and waited in a layby on the side of the road as this looked a better place to land rather than by Kohaihai DOC camp. It wasn’t dumping on the beach like it was up there.
When he made contact he was almost at a spot where I thought he should start to turn and come in! It was rough out there thats for sure, he was coming in really well when all of a sudden he got caught by a wave and over he went! He told me that he was annoyed with himself as he rode the wave for a long time but didn’t correct himself when the power of the wave reduced. That’s why he went over! I got some photos, not the greatest but you can see the wave coming up behind him. Anyway he came out of it unscathed thank goodness and everything was still on/in his kayak!
Distance 32.8 km 4 hours 20minutes
Shaz (Tuesday 19 Feb)
When I woke up this morning Brent said it doesn’t look like I’m paddling today the wind is against me! He would have been battling into a head wind all the way. You could see the disappointment on his face, but there’s not much we can do about the weather, it’s a fickle thing! He was hoping to get to Paturua River by tomorrow afternoon if he managed to get off the beach this morning.
So; friends and family, that is the end of his circumnavigation for this trip! We had our morning coffee and talked about it and there was no way of getting there and having a day up our sleeve with other weather issues; and still be able to make it to Christchurch for the Sail GP.
He lent over gave me a kiss on the cheek and said thanks for being his number one support team, without me he couldn’t have done it! 🥰 so nice to hear that!
So we made the decision, packed up and hit the road! Once we got to Westport we did all the campervan chores, had some lunch and headed for Hamner Springs for a couple of days R & R.
2024 South Island West Coast Paddle Summary
Paddle Days 15
Weather Days 14
Voyage Total Days 29
Total Paddle Distance (km) 579.0
Total Paddle Time (hr mm) 103h 40m
Average Speed (km/hr) 5.59
