22 – 24 November, 2019
We are now within easier driving distance from home to our launch spot, making a long weekend trip worthwhile. The forecast conditions in Hawke’s Bay look good enough to get through, and beyond, their dumping beaches. Good vehicle access to exit points also means I can leave all my solo gear at home.
THIS TRIP: Wairoa to Waimarama – 3 paddle days
Overall Distance: 125.9km Time: 20.5hrs Ave Speed: 6.1km/hr
22 November, 2019
Wairoa to Tangoio
Arrived at Whakamahi beach feeling pretty jaded after the overnight road trip from home. Wanted to get an early enough launch today to at least get to Waipatiki Beach. Possibly Tangoio.
Clocked up over 2000km of the circumnavigation, on this leg to Tangoio. The first 1000km was done in 27 paddle days at an average of 6.13km/hr. The 2000km has taken 54 paddle days at 6.0km/hr.
Good to peek over the dunes to see the forecast low surf on arrival. On the water by 0900 while Shaz visited Wairoa and would then head off the Waipatiki Beach for our next rendezvous. Hugged the shoreline past Waihua and Mohaka, then cut a straight track towards Waipatiki beach that is recessed where the Rocky Range meets the coast. A light beam on SE breeze developed along the way. Approaching the golden sands of Waipatiki Beach (7.5 hours later), Shaz contacted me by VHF and suggested I come in for coffee. At this stage I was keen to finish the day and get to Tangoio Beach, only an hours paddle away. Feeling paddle weary now, I took the easy option of a gel pack to give me a short term boost to the end.
Cut close around Flat Rock to a sheltered Bay where a yacht was anchored; and landed right in front of Shaz parked in a great spot just above the beach. Glad to enjoy a beer after a solid day.
A shorter day to Te Awanga is planned tomorrow but will get an early start anyway.
21 November 2019
Shaza……Left New Plymouth this afternoon at 4pm, heading towards Napier. We drove as far as Tarawera Tavern and campsite along the Taupo – Napier highway and stayed the night arriving at 9pm.
22 November 2019
Up early and drove to Wairoa, down Whakamahi Road to where Brent finished last time arriving about 8.30am. Brent wants to be on the water by 9am, as its going to be a long day! All sorted and on the water by 8.50am.
After cleaning up the van from breakfast I drove into Wairoa to the Eastend Cafe for a coffee and muffin. Caught up on some emails and banking before going to the NZMCA dump station to top up the fresh water. Upon arriving there was someone else emptying the SOG (poo) tank and had parked their car in front of the potable drinking water tap. So I waited very patiently until she finished emptying her poo tank and then move. OMG, the dirty bitch then took her poo tank from the waste area that had a flushing tap, to the potable drinking water tap and put the poo tank spout up to this tap and flushed the tank! “WTF, dirty bitch”, I said it to myself but it came out louder than I meant it to and she heard me as I had the window open. She promptly gave me the fingers to which I drove off as there was no way I was getting my fresh water from that tap!
Filled up with diesel, then to the supermarket for some beer for Brent!
From Wairoa I headed for Waipatiki Beach where Brent will make contact via VHF if he’s had enough and wants to come in. Decided not to take the gravel road and carried on towards Napier. Approaching Napier I decided to go into Napier to the Warehouse and get somethings for tomorrow as it’s Brent’s birthday, its only 20 minutes further down the road. Got what I wanted and then headed back towards the turnoff to Waipatiki Beach. A really nice spot, a few families down at the beach after school and some teenagers having a few sneaky drinks along the beach. One dad taking his 3 girls out on a canoe, having a great time!
Made myself a coffee and waited for Brent to come by and see what he was going to do! Made contact with him via VHF at 4.40pm as he came into sight, he was happy to carry on Tangoio beach! No freedom camping places here at Waipatiki beach either, camp ground was $36 per night!
I drove onto Tangoio and set up came for the night, nice spot right on the sea edge with amazing views down to Napier. Brent landed on the beach around 5.50pm.
Nice evening and very peaceful.
23 November, 2019
Tangoio to Te Awanga
Parking up for the night wherever you land is one of the great benefits of the camper van; allowing also for the earliest launch the next day. And so I did today.
On the water at sunrise while Shaz waves me off from the door of the camper.
Sun up is the best time to be on the water. It’s quieter ………. and generally calmer ……….. and a chance to get the most out of the day. Only targeting Te Awanga today, 6 hours away, as a moderate southerly is forecast around Cape Kidnappers this afternoon.
Enjoyed a flat crossing to Napier harbour then hugged the foreshore until Shaz spotted me from Marine Parade and suggested I come ashore for a coffee.
Continued a very pleasant paddle close to the shoreline in easy conditions. Came within shouting distance of the many fishermen off the Clive and Tukituki River mouths. As I closed within a kilometre or so of Te Awanga a 15-18kt southerly headwind suddenly kicked in with its associated steep chop. Shaz waved me in to another great spot she had found for the camper; right on the beach. Enjoyed a lazy afternoon and evening as the southerly died away. Set myself up for another early launch towards Cape Kidnappers tomorrow. Really looking forward to that.
Happy Birthday Brent!
Shaza…….Brent up early this morning, had his breakfast and on the water by 5.49pm. Beautiful morning, gorgeous sunrise!
Took my time having breakfast and packing up before heading off to Napier and meeting Brent for coffee around 9am along Marine Parade somewhere.
Found a park on Marine Parade near a really nice little cafe called ‘The Six Sisters’. Sat out on the deck outside over looking the beach across the road. One of the nicest coffee’s I’ve had in ages, well done guys.
As it’s Brents birthday today I brought him a nice Spinach & Feta scone and ginger slice to have with his coffee further down the beach.
I walked across the road to see if I could see him and there he was just off the shore from where I was, ran back to the camper to get VHF and called him. He paddled along to where I was and came into shore at 9.15am.
Then I went and brought him a coffee from The Six Sisters which he enjoyed with his treats!
He was back on the water by 9.45am, and I headed for Hastings to do a little Christmas shopping at Kmart. Didn’t last long, so many people so many kids the place was packed, not at all enjoyable! I guess it’s Saturday and everyone had the same idea, oh well never mind! I then headed for Clifton Reserve beach, where I will meet Brent and we will stay the night! I found a spot right on the sea edge again, between other camper vans/motorhomes, plenty of people here for tonight. Brent came ashore at 12.45pm, a shorter day today! The waves were breaking onto the beach, which made it a little bit interesting! Watching him come in, he tried for a quick exit but forgot to remove his camelbak drinking tube from under his spray skirt. So that he didn’t rip the tube, he tried to stay with the kayak to remove it. Entertainment for everyone!
He dragged his kayak up the pebble beach close to the camper and we had some lunch and relaxed for the rest of the afternoon. The sunshine was nice but the wind was a little annoying, people were fishing with torpedo longlines and one fella had a longline attached to a raft with a sail. Well the wind just blew it over the top of surfcasters! Swimmers in the dumping surf and a drone added to the entertainment.
Different people came and talked to Brent about his kayak and had he been fishing, and are really surprised when he tells them what he is actually doing!
As it was Brent’s birthday I cooked roast lamb on the BBQ with some roasties, followed by cherries, strawberries, yoghurt and chocolate cover Russian fudge.
24 November, 2019
Te Awanga to Waimarama
Another early start to get the best of the day around Cape Kidnappers and to end the day at Waimarama as early as possible so we could get on the road back home. It’s about 6 hours to Waimarama so should be there well before lunchtime.
The sunrise this morning was clearly tainted by the smoke from the recent Aussie bush fires.
Have been really looking forward to the twin highlights of Black Reef and Cape Kidnappers today. Love the anticipation of negotiating new and potentially challenging territory. Looks like I will have calm conditions to enjoy this area.
Although it was calm, I still battened down against the unexpected. Last night a local kayaker warned me of the “hydraulics” in the area. Whatever that meant!
Could have hung out around Black Reef all day! Beautiful clear water, plenty of areas to explore. The gannet colony is at the base of the cliffs where Black Reef breaks out from the shore. This is not a particularly big colony unless it extended up the cliffs beyond my view. There is an easy beach just on the other side of Black Reef that would make a great overnighter one day.
Way to quickly the pressure came on the continue progress towards Waimarama. Focussed now on the gap between Cape Kidnappers and its prominent offshore pinnacle. From a distance, even in these calm conditions, I could see breakers in the gap. It was calm enough to have a close look though.
Found that, despite there being some turbulence and surge through the gap, it was an easy enough transit in the conditions.
Found another gannet colony just on the other side of the Cape that I had a closer look at. A gentle NE tailwind eased in as I turned the corner and set a steady pace along Ocean Beach towards conspicuous Bare Island.
So far, down this part of the Hawke’s Bay/Wairarapa long golden sand beaches are punctuated by limestone cliffy points. For now, at least, we seem to be clear of the steeper dumping shoreline.
Shaz contacted me by VHF as I approached Waimarama and guided me into the spot where boats were being launched straight off the beach, using a rocky outcrop for a bit of protection. Thankfully back to a more “normal” surf entry.
Shaz ………… Brent up really early this morning to get a few hours paddling in as we are going home today. He was up around 4.30am, had his breakfast dressed and ready to go! He was on the water by 5.20am!
I got up to see him leave and took a few photos of him going, another beautiful morning and the wind had dropped!
He saw me standing at the door of the camper and gave me the usual wave with his paddle!
I went back to bed, to try and get some sleep only for my world to start rocking at 5.30am, EARTHQUAKE! Found out later it was a 5.3 earthquake, so a good shake! Up and ready by 6.30am enjoyed my coffee and breakfast ……. time to kill! When I was outside the neighbour asked what time he left and when I told him he said he wasn’t surprised! He said that Brent seemed very passionate about what he was doing and sure to meet his end goal. He told me about the Hastings Farmer market on this morning and it has been going for years, so I thought I’d go for a look! It didn’t open until 8.30am, so stopped on the way an got a coffee at Brown Dog Espresso just down the road from the camp. Not bad, had better! Arrived at the market, heaps of people there already getting there fruit and vege. I got some cheese, avocados, strawberries and a good look around before leaving for my drive to Waimamara. Only stopping at Havelock North to empty my waste tanks and then the 30 minute drive to Waimamara. I parked up in a little park area right next to the beach, lots of boats out fishing today. All the tractors and trailers parked along the beach.
Made contact with Brent by VHF as I could see him in the distance, he said that he was about another 10 minutes away. I told him where to come in and he said he would follow where the boats are going. As he got closer I moved the camper as I was on the wrong side of the bridge to get to him. He landed on the beach at 11.09am without any problems.
After having some lunch and then packing everything up we started the long journey home to the Naki!