13. First To See the Sun – Te Kaha to Sponge Bay, Gisborne

19 – 27 April, 2019

This nine day holiday break opportunity, incorporating Easter and ANZAC public holidays, has been targeted for many months and would be the last ‘push’ for this summer.

The key objective is the notorious East Cape and anything beyond that would be a bonus.

Due to the remoteness of this coast, I plan to go solo for up to six days that would double as a test of my equipment (and me) for solo trips that may lie ahead. The faster moving weather patterns at this time year suggested that a full range of conditions is guaranteed.

THIS TRIP: Te Kaha to Sponge Bay, Gisborne – 7 paddle days

Overall Distance 251.9km Time 43.15hrs Average Speed 5.8km/hr


Good Friday, 19 April 2019

Te Kaha to Waihau Bay

Distance 29.6km Time 4.4hrs Ave Speed 6.7km/hr

An early rise and on the road from New Plymouth by 0530hrs, aiming for a lunchtime launch at Te Kaha. Shaz doesn’t complain but is well over these lengthy repetitive road trips now. We are both looking forward to picking up our campervan next month.

Launched at low tide into a “duck pond”; targeting Waihau Bay boat ramp before sunset. I could carry out my pre-paddle routine and farewell to Shaz within a few meters of the beach.

Weaved through the rocks off Te Kaha and Waikawa Points before catching a light NW breeze assist across Papatea Bay. Really enjoyable paddle in easy conditions to start this trip.

Weaving through the rocks at Te Kaha Point
Waiwaka Point with Cape Runaway in the background
Approaching Orete Point in the foreground. Cape Runaway in the distance
Rocks off Orete Point
Waihau Bay Lodge and boat ramp through the rocks

After rock hopping around Orete Point I arrived at a busy Waihau Bay boat ramp coinciding with the local fishing competition weigh-in deadline. The jetty had lots of kids fishing off it too. The Waihau Bay Lodge we are booked into is just across the road from the ramp. Very handy and great location to enjoy a beer watching the end of day hustle and bustle at the ramp and jetty.

Shaz at the boat ramp

Friday 19 April 2019

Shaza……OMG, up really early today 4.45am and on the road by 5.15am and 8 degrees. Heading to Te Kaha for the next stage of Brent’s Kayak adventure. Passed Ben’s place around 5.45am, the lights were on in the house, guess they are up ready for milking the goats and to check on the new born piglets. Good time to travel, not to much traffic on the road being the first day of the Easter. In Uriti Valley the temperature dropped to 4 degrees, and very foggy! Heading into Pio Pio the temperature dropped to 2 degrees and by Bennydale it was 0 degrees dropping to -1 degree and at one stage. 

Stopped at BP in Roturoa for pit stop and so has everyone else! A little wait for coffee, lady kept on apologising for the long wait, not her fault that on public holidays most places are closed. Arrived at Te Kaha at 12.05pm, Brent quickly set up and was on the water by 12.30pm.

Staying at Waihau Bay tonight. I drove onto Maturangi Bay had some lunch and talked to Brent on VHF, stayed until I couldn’t see him any longer. Stopped at the next available stop which was Whanarua Bay asked the camp ground manager if it was alright to park down by the beach for and hour until I make contact with Brent. Once I explained what he was doing, he said that would be fine!

Whanarua Bay Camp ground

Finally made contact with Brent via VHF, making good progress keeping an eye out for him before heading to Waihau Bay. Tried Brent again after an hour and he said that he was 1.5 hour away from Waihau Bay, I soon realised that he had already gone past me! Oh well, in my defence I can’t really see that to good through the binoculars without my glasses on!

On my way I pulled over at Ruakokore and checked out the Historic Church on the point. Had a good look around the church inside and outside,took some photos before driving onto Waihau Bay where we are staying for the night. 

Raukokore Historic Church

Waihau Bay Lodge is right on the water front, we have one of the rooms with shared facilities. Brent came around the point into the bay about 4.30pm, he has made good time. Told him that the boat ramp is quite busy today as there is a fishing competition on for Easter. He came into the boat ramp at 4.55pm.

Coming into Waihau Bay

We just had to walk across the road to our ute and room. After he had packed up his gear and showered we made our way down to the bar for a beer and meal. It is a beautiful evening not cold like at home. We sat outside and had dinner with a beautiful sunset, very peaceful place!

Sunset at Waihau Bay

Saturday, 20 April 2019

Waihau Bay to Te Araroa

Distance 55.4km Time 8.9hrs Ave Speed 6.22km/hr

Another early rise. This time with a full day on the water in mind and possible Hicks Bay landing. The forecast is good with NW breeze predicted to kick in during the day. Looking forward to rounding Cape Runaway before stopping at Lottin Point for lunch with Shaz and meet up with John Breen and girlfriend Mira. As always, weather will dictate progress today. Once committing past Lottin Point the next accessible point is Hicks Bay. A chat to a local fisherman at the boat ramp warned of the narly lee shore between Lottin Point and Hicks Bay if the NW gets too strong. He wished me well.

Farewell to Shaz at Waihau boat ramp
Waihau Bay jetty
Looking back at Waihau Bay and Orete Point after launch

After a calm launch I met a moderate off shore easterly headwind and chop across Whangaparaoa Bay that got annoying through the middle stages. The wind appeared to be funnelling down the Whangaparaoa valley into the Bay. Once in the shadow of Kopongatahi Point and Cape Runaway the calm sea returned.

Approaching Cape Runaway

Caught the gentle tidal stream round Cape Runaway. I have been looking forward to this Cape for a long time and got to enjoy it in great conditions. Several fishermen were anchored off Otarawhata Island and rocks off the Cape.

Rounding Cape Runaway
Cape Runaway
Heading for Lottin Point in the far distance for lunch. Tahurua Point in the foreground.
Typical remote countryside. Old style kiwi bach mid-photo

Hugging the coastline to Lottin Point and nice reception from John, Mira and Shaz despite John urging me to get get a wiggle on as I got within earshot. He got the appropriate response.

Arriving at Lottin Point for lunch

Relaxing lunch at a busy camp area. Looking out to the Point the wind is clearly picking up offshore. Launched with John and Mira in their kayaks heading out for a dive. Wary of the exposed coastline between Lottin and Matakaoa Points and the advice from the fisherman at Waihau Bay; I told Shaz that I would check out the conditions at Lottin Point before committing to the 2.5hr paddle to the relative safety of Hicks Bay.

Goodbyes and good luck to John and Mira before finding perfect NW 10-12kt conditions off the Point. Advised Shaz that I would push on to Hicks Bay and that we should be able to make VHF contact as I rounded Matakaoa Point. Great looking remote coastline between Cape Runaway and Midway Point with lovely remote beaches and the odd old gem of a bach with tough access.

Approaching Midway Point
Matakaoa Point. Lighthouse above the cliff.

From Midway Point to Matakaoa Point the coastline is pretty rugged and rocky with the odd possible landing point where deep ravines met the shoreline. Here there would be a small beach with access available through the rocks.

Approaching Te Araroa

Glad to be around Matakaoa Point and the relative safety of Hicks Bay. Contacted Shaz to say I would push on to Te Araroa as this would provide a better launch option if the weather conditions tomorrow were favourable for a possible East Cape rounding. My alternative plan was to paddle about 2 hours to the East Cape campground, just around Horoera Point, where I would be ready to ponce when the conditions were right. We had checked out this campground on our visit here a couple of weeks ago. Shaz is taking the long road trip home after tomorrow mornings launch and I start my solo mission.


Shaza ……………Brent was up early to make the most of the good weather. He was on the water by 6.50am. What a beautiful morning, warm not like at home in the morning the temperature a little fresh!

Ready for launch at Waihau Bay
Beautiful sunrise at Waihau Bay & Brent setting up before leaving
Brent’s signature wave with his paddle, when he leaves

Once Brent was on his way I thought I might try and have a sleep, but now the kids and baby next door are up and they’re not happy! Oh well, had a shower and packed up then went and had breakfast at the lodge restaurant. Sorry Brent, was going to get muesli but decided to sit in front of the lodge in the sun and enjoy the morning. Still have wifi so sent off some photos of the beautiful morning sun rise to everyone!

Brent told me yesterday that a redheaded Irishman doing contract work for Methanex would be at Lottin Point doing some free diving. 

Once I left Waihau Bay around 8.50 am I headed for Lottin Point!

Looking back across to Waihau Bay Lodge

Before I knew it I was at the turn off to Lottin Point, earlier than I thought I’d be!

There are a lot of people here for Easter, the guy in the truck is still here. Found a park under a tree in the shade, right next to John (the Irishman) and Mira, I go over to introduced myself!

Lottin Point Camp ground

We talked for a while and then read my book before a young family came by, that were staying at Waihau Bay last night next to us. They are from Auckland and on holiday for 12 days. They have a 3 month old baby and two older children 4 and 6. The little girl was hungry so gave her a feijoa, she loved it. After about 1.5 hours I tried Brent on the VHF, he is only about 15 – 20 minutes away. The 3 of us head down to the beach, finally I see him! This is the second time that someone apart from myself is there to welcome him ashore. Finally arrived at 12pm.

Arriving at Lottin Point
John, Brent & Mira
Relaxing lunch

After a good catch up and some lunch he set off at 12.53pm from the beach. The wind was picking up a little, so Brent said he would radio me on VHF once he got to the top of Lottin Point to say if he was going to continue or come back. John and Mira were going out for a free dive to catch something for their dinner. They had a spear gun and knife, so it might be fish, Kina or Puna! So all three left the beach at the same time and set off!

John, Mira & Brent all launching at once
Looking across bay at Lottin Point (Wakatiri)

After Brent made contact I waited for another 30 minutes before setting off for Hicks Bay Motel. I checked in to the motel and laid down on the bed for a few minutes and nearly fell asleep! The early mornings are catching up with me I think! So I got up and made myself a strong coffee, got the binoculars, cellphone and sunglasses and headed down to the front of the motel garden with an amazing view of Hicks Bay.

Looking down on Hicks Bay

Tried to make contact with Brent but nothing yet! Around 3.45pm he made contact, he was going to go onto Te Araroa and would be there in about one hour. I waited another 30 minutes before leaving for Te Araroa, not far from here and found a spot at the far end of the beach where he wanted to come ashore. Brent arrived around 5.20pm, he headed for the river mouth as it looked a safer spot to come in! The on-shore wind has got up and the waves are dumping on the beach. Came safely in the river mouth and landing on river bank, not to far from the ute.

Looking across the bay to Haupara Point

Sunday, 21 April 2019

Te Araroa to Whareponga

Distance 53.1km Time 8.9hrs Ave Speed 6.0km/hr

Late decision last night, while checking the forecasts at our Hicks Bay lodgings, to prepare for an East Cape rounding today. The forecasts have aligned at last, with a light NW predicted all day. Coinciding with this was a favourable timing of the ebb tidal stream around the Cape. The ebb flow will be from 0800-1400. AGW I plan to be at the Cape at 1000hrs; Port Awanui by 1300 and Whareponga by 1600hrs.
In this area any winds with a westerly component are good as long as you keep tight on the coast.

Another early morning rise for Shaz as I wanted to be on the water by 0700 if possible. Third early start in a row and the day that I would set off on my solo trip. A ten minute drive from the Hicks Bay Motel to the Awatere river mouth at Te Araroa where Secala was loaded up with 6 days worth of provisions and gear. There was a moment of panic when I couldn’t find my bialetti coffee kit. Disaster averted when it was found in the wrong fish bin. Shaza’s suggestion of launching in the river was a lot better than the steep stony beach option.

After hugs and last minute safety advice it was out through the shallow river mouth in a deep draft kayak. Keen to keep a time schedule on a long day, I set a steady pace and immediately feeling the extra drag of the loaded kayak. Needing a little more torque in each stroke. It was a gloomy morning with darker rain bands approaching from the NW.

Approaching Horoera Point. East Island in the distance

Reaching Horoera Point the rain showers had arrived and I was concerned enough to check my weather apps before losing the last of the cellular reception from Te Araroa. The East Cape campground just east of Horoera point was my contingency exit if required. The weather apps had updated and actually showed an improved forecast since looking at them earlier this morning. The conditions on the water were good and the slow moving rain bands had no wind squalls associated with them. Visibility was good enough and my compass and paper charts were on standby. Commitment made to go for the Cape rounding.

East Cape coming to view opposite East Island

Needed to go wide off Te Wharenoanoa Point to avoid breaking shoals. The Cape seemed slow in arriving but very satisfying when it did; including the shift in compass course from 090 to 180 to lift the spirits. For me, this Cape rates right up there with the northern Capes and Cape Palliser as North Island promontories deserving of outright respect. A good degree of satisfaction knocking this one off.

Downhill now and sights now set on Waikori Bluff now conspicuous one hour to the south.

Waikori Bluff under the rainbow
Looking up the Waiapu River valley

The land north of Waikori Bluff is untamed and covered in native bush. South of the Bluff the large braided Waiapu River breaks though to Te Wharau beach were small settlements and broken in land resumes . What a terrific coastline. South of the Bluff remote beaches extend for miles. Numerous possibilities for solo camping. Port Awanui and Whakariki Point is my next waypoint and with a light NW assist, will make it on the 6hr schedule mark. I check in with Shaz via inReach with our scheduled ” All is OK” message.

Looking towards Port Awanui

Kaimoho point lay ahead with my destination Whareponga around its headland.

Kaimoho point ahead

The landing at Whareponga was easy enough with a reef at the northern end offering good surf protection.

Beaut little deserted Bay with fringe of grass just above the beach. Arrived right on schedule at 4pm. This is my target time for landing while solo paddling on this trip as it provides time to establish camp on these shorter days and prep for an early launch the next day.

Whareponga camp
Tokomaru Bay 3.5hrs paddle around Koutunui Head in the distance

Shortly after setting up camp, a 4×4 arrived down the beach and I introduced myself to Willie who was intrigued with my trip and said to mention his name if anyone questioned me about camping here. Kia Ora Willie. Willie works on the farm further up the Valley.

Have noticed for the first time that the front hatch lid is passing water badly. Had to bail out at least 3 liters of water today. The fully laden Secala sees much more water over the bow than normal.

Darkness and the quietness fell quickly. With no cell reception here, a few satellite messages sent via inReach to obtain weather forecasts followed by good sleep, interrupted only with occasional showers.


Shaza ………………Up early, Brent wanting to get Te Araroa beach for early start on his solo journey. Got to the beach at 6.30am.

Precision packing of the kayak for solo trip
Nearly done!

By the time Brent has packed the kayak (tent, bedding, food, cooking equipment, solar panel, VHF, cellphone, inReach, all the safety equipment and water etc) he got on the water by 7am.

An he’s off!
There he goes
Heading out the river mouth
Brent sitting off Te Araroa beach setting up before heading off.

Launched on the river and headed out the river mouth, last I saw of him was when he headed around the end of the bay. I went back to the motel, showered and packed then started on the long journey home. Stopping at Jan and Vic’s in Thornton for lunch to break up the 8 hour journey home to New Plymouth.


Easter Monday, 22 April 2019

Whareponga

The day dawned as forecast last night. NE increasing to 20+kts that was confirmed by the morning forecast received via inReach from Shaz.

It didn’t look like 20kt weather out there however visibility is not good and the fast moving showers suggested my view didn’t tell the whole story. Decided on a lay day which was welcome after three long days and a chance to enjoy camp life in new surroundings. The day cruised by between rain showers. Met Hauri from Rep (Reporua) who came down to surf cast off the beach. Grew up around here and had tales to tell of the fishing in these parts. Was interested with my trip and wished me well. Willie came back down to the beach later and I asked him if I could get some water somewhere. He gave me a ride a couple of k’s up a track to Whareponga which consisted of a handful of houses. Linda welcomed me into her house to fill my containers of spring water and gave me a few feijoas. Super friendly people making do with what they have. No supermarkets anywhere near here. Linda offered me a ride back to my camp however politely declined and enjoyed a walk this remote area. Really appreciate the utter quietness here. Far enough away from the surf, the only sound is the breeze through the trees and the tinkle of the stream as I walk back to camp. So good. The other blessing is that there are no annoying mozzies or sandflies either. Enjoyed a bialetti coffee, took walks along the beach and up the gullies; and caught up with my log during the showers. Some heavy rain during the night. Glad to have the extra fly for protection.


Tuesday, 23 April 2019

Whareponga

Woke to calm morning and forecast from Shaz was for today to apparently get better later in the day. By late morning there was no change apart from heavy cloudy and rain. Visibility was not good. If the rain cleared I could make a dash for Tokomaru Bay. In preparation for that possibility, I packed up everything apart from the fly in readiness for a final call at about midday for a quick getaway. Later in the morning the sun came out momentarily that got my hopes up however it was short lived as more heavy rain soon arrived. Pulled the pin on getting away today, primarily due to poor visibility. Re-made the camp. About 1pm the wind veered NE and intensified bringing more rain. I was happy with my decision to stay and wait out this weather system. So much for the improving weather. Long day doing nothing though as the rain kept me indoors. Bialetti coffee with a teaspoon of honey is my new favorite. Read more of Daniel Silva. Replenished water from the fly which is doing a great job. Could have been miserable without it. Just keeps the water that much further from the tent with lots more dry space for the gear. The powerpack got a short boost today, now showing 4/5 bars which is good especially in the conditions.


Wednesday, 24 April 2019

Whareponga to Tokomaru Bay

Distance 23.5km Time 4.0hrs Ave Speed 5.9km/hr

Very heavy rain and strong winds overnight. Daybreak looked OK with light offshore breeze. Forecast from Shaz at 0700 did not paint a good picture with strong NE up to 25kt all day. Although it was gloomy to the east, it sure didn’t look bad out there. No rain in sight and good visibility. On the basis of the inconsistent forecasts the last couple of days, I decided to go with my own assessment of the conditions. It’s 3 hours to Tokomaru Bay and could retreat to Waipiro Bay if things were worse than they looked. A short trip to Tokomaru Bay would provide the chance to sort out some gear, get internet access for weather forecasts and have a hot shower.

Looking back at Whareponga beach after launch

On the water about 0800 with the light offshore lasting for an hour before a light SE on the nose set in . Half way across Waipiro Bay a cray boat Juno cruised up to check me out, took photos and offered me a kahawai. I later met the crewman at the Tokomaru Bay camp who said he had never seen anything like it on the water and was amazed at the trip. Asked the skipper for a forecast who said it would be good for the next 3 days. Right now though, it looked dark and ominous out east so I stepped up the pace to ensure I would get around to Tokomaru Bay ahead of its arrival. Really didn’t need to worry as the day actually steadily improved.

Tokomaru Bay

Came ashore twice in Tokomaru Bay looking for the camp. Miss you guiding me in Shaz. Landing as close as I could, I still had to carry my gear about 300m to the camp, across a main road. After setting up the tent, the camp owner advised that I should bring my kayak to camp too, rather than hide it in the dunes as “the Maori around here will either trash it or set it adrift”. Using grass verges as much as possible, I still had to drag Secala across an asphalt road 3 times to get it to camp! Having a hard life. Going to be a painfully slow start tomorrow dragging all the gear back to the beach.
Set up tent and fly to dry, had a nice hot shower ($2 for 3 minutes) and then the rain arrived. So much for drying gear out!

At least I was able to stretch out in the camp kitchen to charge the battery pack, make a coffee and, now with internet access, look up forecasts for myself. Going to have sweetcorn toasties and kumara chips from the takeaway next door. So good after freeze dri tucker. Sure hope it’s not raining in the morning. Packing up and getting into wet gear sucks.


Anzac Day, Thursday, 25 April 2019

Tokomaru Bay to Tolaga Bay

Distance 33.3km Time 7.2hrs Ave Speed 4.6km/hr

Terrible sleep last night. I had pitched my tent close to a water pump that cut in and out every few minutes. Compounding that, music was banging away in the neighbourhood until 0200. Got up at 5. Showers during night but the tarp does a great job again.
An early breakfast and soon realise that an ANZAC dawn service is taking place next door. Getting gear back to the beach and loaded up took 3 trips and more hull scrapping across roads for poor Secala. I was ready to launch by 0800.

I have an audience on the beach today who have probably been to the dawn service. They will be entertained as there are some good rollers coming in this morning.

Looking back at Tokomaru Bay after clean launch
Rounding Mawhai Point out of Tokomaru Bay

Gentle offshore breeze to start with until reaching Mawhai Point at the southern end of the Bay. The predicted southerly made itself known as I rounded the sloppy seas off Mawhai point. Headwinds persisted for 3 hours until reaching Marau Point when my change of course put the wind a couple of points on the bow making for slightly easier paddling.

Marau Point is the biggest meanest most intimidating headland I’ve come across since Cape Reinga. Photos don’t do it justice. The idiot who named this headland showed no respect and missed the point ……..! I will be calling this fella Cape Marau from now on. Cape Marau ….Sir!

Cape Marau
Cape Marau

Tolaga Bay was in my sights now, beyond Te Karaka Point about 2 hours paddle away. Kaiaua and Karaka Bays had to be crossed with many shoals causing the swell crests to peak. Had to be very watchful throughout this period until reaching the gap between Te Karaka Point and its offshore island.

Te Karaka Point ahead with offshore island (left)

Now in Tolaga Bay I headed for the far side where the jetty is and I knew the campground to be.

Cruised by the Tolaga jetty
Nice surge coming into the beach at Tolaga

Some nice rollers are coming in. Managed to time it well with a nice ride in until the very end when I lost balance leaving it too late to brace into the decent wash. Canned out and pissed off at getting my dry paddle top soaked. A guy on the beach, Matt, came over for a chat and said he was impressed with my ride in!! Matt gave me a lift of Secala up the beach to the campground and later gave me a very welcome beer once I had set up my tent.

Tolaga jetty
Plenty of room to spread out

Checked in at the camp office and another animated conversation about my trip. A better campground than Tokomaru but twice the price at $20. Free showers through, and no 3 minute limit. Set tent up in a quiet spot and spread the gear out to dry in the remaining sunlight. The front hatch of Secala had accumulated another 3-4 litres of water again today.


Friday, 26 April 2019

Tolaga Bay to Tatapouri

Distance 44.2km Time 7.5hrs Ave Speed 5.9km/hr

Quiet night and good sleep last night. Up at 0530 for breakfast in the kitchen before packing up. Good cell reception here for checking forecasts. Tent and fly wet with dew. Wasn’t looking forward to getting into a soaked paddle top from yesterdays turtle. On beach and I was ready for launch just before 0800. Easy through the surf, under the jetty and towards Pourewa island. Was planning to go round the outside of Pourewa Island as I didn’t have enough info to know if it was safe to go through the gap. I sent a speculative very early morning email to Lynn (Red) Paterson enquiring about this Pourewa gap and gratefully received a prompt reply. This gap didn’t bring back any memories for her and didn’t believe she had gone through it, suggesting it could have been tidal. I agreed that without any intel that I would play it safe and go round the outside. Lynn has been a terrific support contact for me throughout this adventure and never fails to respond when my flag goes up.

Shaz is meeting me at Tatapouri today AGW, after another long road trip from New Plymouth. No 4pm “on the water” deadline today to set up camp.

Under Tolaga Bay jetty
Looking back

Once I got to the Pourewa gap, on a calm sea and low swell, it looked like a lake and I could see nearly all the way through. With the high tide a couple of hours away, the only unknown was what the conditions would be like exiting the gap. I couldn’t resist at least having a look. Could always come back out if things didn’t look OK.

The mainland side was very steep and when I looked up I was surprised to see some goats halfway down a barren bluff. I told them they were silly billies as there was plenty of good grass and scrub on the top.
Through the gap and on the other side the sea was calm and the sun out. Great change from recent days . On days like today I feel like I can paddle forever.

Round this point with the white cliffs of Gable End Foreland coming into view in the distance

Around the next point and the great GEF presented its elegant magnificent self. Two hours later and negotiating the reefs at Gable to see a line of further breakers on the other side.

Gable End Foreland

It was difficult to see a way through the breakers even when I got closer. Thankfully a cray boat working the area was heading back south that gave me the lead on what path to take. Although the path was a good one I found myself sprinting in a couple of places as the swell peaked a little too much for my liking. There is another beautiful isolated beach just south of GEF.

Whangara Island (left) resembling a beached whale

I could see all the way to Whangara now, an hours paddle away, and the whole area was littered with shoals. With a calm sea I was able to negotiate a path through the maze and use the many cray pots to guide me round the outer edge of most reefs. Lunch and coffee on beautiful beach. Have come to enjoy stopping somewhere for lunch, where possible, and get a closer look at these places that I may never see again.

Maori legend says that Paikea reached Whangara from Hawaiki on the back of a whale. The whale became this rock, Whangara Island.

Very shallow (maybe walkable) channel between land and island at low tide

The low 1 meter surf has a surprising punch to it here with a strong surge up the beach and backwash. This actually swung me 180 and I resorted to reversing out through the shore break before turning. I hung back to show some respect and tried to get my timing right but failed in that regard. Advancing too far, I had a full set to contend with and got pushed back strongly a couple of times. A laden Secala providing good stability and easily through in the end.
Around Whangara Island and I could see my destination Tatapouri an hours paddle away. Headed directly for it before realizing, as l got closer, that there was no gap through the long line breakers that extended from the shore. Went out wide and followed the cray pots safely round the reef.

Tatapouri boat ramp and camp

Contacted Shaz by phone who said she was still 30 minutes out of Gisbourne. I would arrive at the beach before her. On the way towards the beach, still a couple of miles out, I was surprised to see skippies (skipjack tuna) jumping clean out of the water right in front of me. Told a kayak fisherman about it, anchored just off the beach, who wasn’t at all surprised.

Landed on a flat sea at the boat ramp at Tatapouri that is just meters from the campground where Shaz has booked a tourist flat. Waited half an hour for Shaz to arrive after a loooong drive from New Plymouth.


Friday 26 April 2019

Shaz ……….Packed the Ute yesterday as it was going to be an early start today. Daniel and Alex’s flight to Wellington was at 6.50am. Finished packing, loaded up the Ute with their bags and headed for the airport about 5.50am. Once they boarded their flight I set off for Whakatane for lunch and then onto Gisborne and then up to Tatapouri. 

Stopping at Jan Vic’s for lunch at Thornton on the way to break up the trip, as it’s a long drive to Gisborne. 

Driving through Waioeka Gorge nearing Matawai I got bad cramp in my right foot and leg so had to pull over and get out of the Ute walked around it about 3 times and drank heaps of water! Once it settled down I set off again, only for it to come back half hour down the road! While walking around the Ute and drinking water Brent rang, I said that I might be a little late getting there now! He said that we may end up getting there about the same time. Brent did arrive before me by about 20 minutes. Oh well never mind!  I need to drink more water! Brent looking a little like a homeless man with a beard and his buff on his head (like someone you’d see at WOMAD).

The motor camp at Tatapouri was just there next to the boat ramp, I had already booked a self contained room for us. Nice views from the deck, nice room and the shower and toilet were detached from the room outside the sliding door. Early night for both of us, been a long day!


Saturday, 27 April 2019

Tatapouri to Sponge Bay, Gisborne

Distance 12.8km Time 2.25hrs Ave Speed 5.7km/hr

Beautiful view of the sunrise from our room. No rush this morning as I only intend paddling a couple of hours down the coast before making our long way home via Thornton. Bacon and eggs for breakie before wheeling an extra light Secala down to the boat ramp.

Moderate NW offshore wind today so hugged the coast past Okitu and Wainui before rounding Tuaheni Point to Sponge Bay.

Tuaheni Point
Sponge Bay ahead
Sponge Bay

Arrived at about 1100hrs which is an hour before the 1.8m high tide. Need to remember that there is just enough beach to launch from, at this tide height. Had Shaz on the beach to meet me for the first time in a week. Pulled Secala up the stairs before enjoying a coffee.
End of a great week long trip. Had everything. Learned heaps. Enjoyed it all.


Shaz …….Up early to see the sunrise, beautiful morning! 

Sunrise at Tatapouri

Took our time this morning nice cooked breakfast bacon and eggs (mainly because I forgot the muesli) and then Brent got his kayak ready. He has decided to only do a short paddle today and go to Sponge Bay. About 8.15 he left the motel and headed down to the boat ramp by himself as its just down by the entrance to the camp ground. 

Walking Secala down the road
On his way to Tatapouri Boat Ramp

At 8.30 I saw him paddling out to go around the reef from our room. 

Just after 9am once I had packed up I headed towards Okitu beach to make contact with Brent to see how he was going as the wind was up a little. Decided to stop at the look out on Tatapouri Point, saw him in the distance and took some photos of the bay. 

Photo taken from Tatapouri Point lookout

Made contact with him at Wainui, and he said that he was going well and would go onto Sponge Bay as planned.

So I made my way to Sponge Bay, parked up and read until he arrived around 10.40am when he came into view. Landed on the beach at 10.46am in style.

Now he has to get the kayak up some steep steps!

Once he made it to the top, we sat down and had a coffee, with some fruit cake. Took our time to pack up and then we headed for Thornton where we are staying the night at Jan and Vic’s once again to shorten the trip home. 

11. Destination “Stanton Hotel” – Papamoa to Torere

8 – 10 March, 2019

Getting to Uncle Vic and Aunty Jan’s place at Thornton has been a key motivating factor for us this entire summer campaign. At the end of the first trip of this summer, back in October (end of trip #5 at Taupotupotu), we had made a non-stop road trip from Taupotupotu to Thornton to check on Vic who wasn’t ‘shipshape’ at the time. Every day on the water since then has had Vic driving “shark bait” (me) along.

This is Taranaki Anniversary weekend offering a 3 and a half day paddle opportunity. Once again the weather forecast wasn’t flash, however on this part of the Bay coastline there was plenty of opportunity to get in short paddle stints as the weather dictated.

THIS TRIP: Papamoa to Torere – 3 paddle days

Overall Distance 122.8km Time 20.85hrs Average Speed 5.9km/hr


Friday, 8 March 2019

Papamoa to Thornton

Distance 62km Time 8.55hrs Speed 7.25km/hr

Stayed at Papamoa overnight Thursday in the hope of an early start. A weather front was due to pass over the Bay today so staying close to the beach and keeping a ‘weather eye’ would be key.

Launched from Papamoa

Launched at sunrise into an easy surf with the outer breaks concealed by the high tide. Didn’t get a splash on me as I timed the shore break to perfection; for a change. After the usual VHF check-in and farewell to Shaz, set off in glassy conditions on a gloomy morning. Okurei Point at Maketu is the next prominent landmark just two hours paddle away. Soon a light northerly came away just behind my port beam to provide a little assist .

Okurei Point off Maketu
Rounding Okurei Point

From the north, rain showers made way to heavier squalls that were quite intense making the shore barely discernible at times, though it was only a few hundred meters away. Although the light northerly remained, the onshore swell had picked up a notch.

This was a trickle compared with what was to come
Swell picking up

Made contact with Shaz at our scheduled check-in at Pukehina Beach and agreed to a lunchtime rendezvous at Pikowai, a couple of hours further down the beach. Conditions remained similar as I cruised close in to Pukehina Beach before a smooth enough landing at the roadside camp ground at Pikowai. Its such a luxury having lunch with Shaz on the beach and the chance for a stretch. Going to enjoy this while it lasts.

When it came time to launch the tide had ebbed further and the swell increased a tad giving the shore break bit of grunt. Got trashed twice on the beach before breaking out.
Thornton was now only 3 hours paddle away and despite the rain, the paddle conditions were good enough and we were excited to be reaching Jan and Vic’s today.

Soon after launch the wind and swell intensified and was now onshore NE (beam on) making paddling more challenging with white caps breaking over the swell, having to brace often against these as they broke over Secala. Maintained a close 400m proximity to the beach now while applying plenty of off shore leeway just to stay out of the surf zone. Comforting to have a lee shore. Could see the front approaching from the NE with wind gusts now streaking the white caps. This wind was short lived as, when the front hit with torrential rain, the wind died away completely. The sea surface was surreal with shore visibility reduced to an outline. Once the front passed the wind returned having backed around a good 60 degrees to NNW and the weather cleared. The following 10kt wind making paddling a lot more comfortable and progress was hastened.
Got to Thornton River and Shaz said the bar was OK to paddle through even though it was now low tide. Didn’t want to make a hash of this landing that would have an audience.

We have been looking forward to this arrival for a long time. Came in cleanly over the bar before snagging a fisherman’s line in my rear flag as I came in on the eastern side of the river mouth.
Short paddle up river to the boat ramp and a great reception from Vic, Jan and Gaynor. The first planned reception of the whole trip. A good sense of achievement for sure. ‘Stanton Hotel’ is just down the road with home cooking and hospitality.

Jan, Gaynor and Shaz at the Thornton boat ramp
Vic waving from the car.

Shaz ……………..Stayed night at Papamoa Beach Resort, in one of their cabins. Up early so Brent could get off to a good start as weather forecast isn’t that good! Today’s the day, we are going to finally make it to Thornton! We have been so looking forward to coming in there and seeing Vic on the beach meeting Brent! Twelve months ago we wouldn’t have thought this day would come. 

Papamoa Beach

He launched at 7.05am from Papamoa Beach in a cloudy overcast day. I headed back to our cabin, showered and packed up then headed for Pukehina. Got my morning coffee from Blackberry Eatery in Papamoa, good coffee and the best muffin ever (curry, cumin and vege), yummy! Drove down Pukehina Beach Road, to the waterfront to make contact with Brent. 

Off coast – Pukehina Beach

Weather looks like its getting worse, but not too bad yet! Brent said that he was going to come ashore at Pikowai for lunch. I drove onto Pikowai, nice spot! I stopped at Pikowai Campground, several motorhomes parked up. Thank goodness flushing toilets also! Access to the beach all good, its going to be a while before Brent arrives, so settled in and read my book. Around 11.30am I put on my rain jacket as the weather conditions have worsen, the wind is up and the rain is coming! I walked down to the beach to make contact with Brent. He is making steady progress, heading back to the Ute it started to rain, then the hail started and I got caught in it, bloody hell the things I do! Standing under a tree to keep out of hail! I saw Brent and he is getting near now, back down to the beach to guide him in! It absolutely poured down with rain, really! Oh well what can you do, Brent came ashore at 12.52pm lunch. 

Pikowai beach landing

Leaving Pikowai wasn’t easy, it took 3 attempts, it was much rougher than when he landed! Had to pump water out of the kayak twice, I even had a go at it. Launched on the 3rd attempt at 1.20pm.

Driving along the road I pulled into Kohiawa beach at 13.37 and saw Brent going by, then onto Murphy’s camp ground further along the beach, then again at Matata I made contact with Brent on VHF at 2.50pm. He said that it would take about 1.5 hours Thornton beach.

Looking east to Whale Island from Matata

I decided to drive onto Jan and Vic’s at Thornton, after having a cup of tea we all headed to Thornton beach. I saw Brent in the distance and before long he was approaching the beach, he wanted to come into the river mouth. He landed around 4.30pm, it was so nice that he had a welcoming committee for the first time! 

Gaynor and Jan welcoming Brent in
Vic waiting by car, also welcoming Brent in
Vic & Brent, a special day!

Saturday, 9 March 2019

Thornton to Ohope

Distance 25km Time 6.0hrs Speed 4.2km/hr

Checked out of ‘Stanton Hotel’ and a couple of kilometers to the Thornton River boat ramp. On the water a little later than usual. Jan joining us at the ramp to see me off, full of questions about the kayak and its setup.

Boat ramp launches are quite a luxury however not knowing what the river bar looked like at high tide, everything was securely packed down. Once out of the ramp the river current swept me swiftly out through the river mouth and cleanly over bar.

View back toThornton Beach having cleared the bar
Kohi Point outside Whakatane Harbour
Looking into Whakatane Harbour

Whisper of an offshore southerly to start with quickly turned into a SE headwind that varied in the 10-15kt range. A nice little morning workout, I figured, as the forecast was for the wind to turn to an onshore NE in the afternoon. After 4 hours of the workout, for only a 16km gain, I was ready to join Shaz for lunch at Ohope Beach. On the way in through the easy surf and fully under control, I tried to be a bit clever with the technique and promptly (and embarrassingly) canned out. Lesson learned!

Out of Ohope and into the same headwind. By 1530 I had reached the last access point down the east end of Ohope beach. With the next access point at Opotiki couple of hours normal paddle away (3 hours at my current rate) and no sign of the wind shifting or abating I decided to call it quits after just 6 hours and only 25km gained. On the bright side, ‘Stanton Hotel’, is just down the road


Shaz……… Late start today, hopefully the weather will be better today! So nice staying with family for a change! Left Jan and Vic’s for the beach around 7.50am, Brent got sorted and had a new support crew member today Jan! She helped Brent carry his kayak for the boat ramp, strong!!! Not bad for someone 70+!

Jan helping Brent carry kayak to the boat ramp
Jan & Brent

Brent launched from the boat ramp on the river at 8.22am and then paddled out the river mouth around 8.40am.

Heading down the river

Too quick for me to drive from the boat ramp to the car park looking out over the river mouth to record him going out! Oh well you can’t catch them all! Returned to Jan and Vic’s, had a late breakfast and cup of tea and chat before packing up and heading for Ohope beach. First stop Blueberry Corner for coffee and a Blueberry muffin each for us! Stopped in at Coastlands beach for check on Brent around 10.50am, called on the VHF but no reply. I could see him quite clearly however. Going over to Ohope I stopped at Ohope lookout to see if I could see him but nowhere in sight.

Looking down on Ohope

Looked around the shops in Ohope before going down by the Surf Lifesaving club and Brent made contact at 12.05pm and said that he was going to the far end of Ohope for lunch. I decided to go for a drive down the west end of Ohope to have a look. At 12.29pm Brent called saying that he was going to come in now where I was, thank goodness I hadn’t left to go down the far end of beach! He was paddling into a head wind, so came in early for lunch break at 12.34pm.

West End beach at Ohope

After lunch he launched at 1.20pm and would contact me where he was heading, just depends on the conditions. I contacted Brent at 2.35pm to see how he was going, he said that it was ok at the moment. He asked me to contact him when he got closer to the south end of Ohope beach to see how he was feeling. Brent contacted me at 3.15pm to say that he was coming in as he was battling into a head wind. Landing on the beach at 3.25pm. 

Jan has been in regular contact today, and said that we were welcome to stay the night there if we wanted. We decided we would take up her offer and go back there for the night, its only a 20 minute drive.


Sunday, 10 March 2019

Ohope to Torere

Distance 35.8km Time 6.3hrs Speed 5.7km/hr

Another farewell from ‘Stanton Hotel’ with Vic waving from his bedroom window and wishing “shark bait” a safe voyage.
Launched into a calm sea however the forecast was for more easterly headwinds.

Ohope Beach launch

Shaz check in at Waiotahe. Conditions good so to Opotiki for lunch.

Headwinds were now slowing me down. Came in to easy surf at Opotiki with an audience that Shaz had found. They were very interested in what we were doing.

Coming in at Opotiki
Hikuwai Beach at Opotiki. Locals on horses riding down the beach.

Headwinds seem to have set in now. Not sure how long I would last so I suggested to Shaz to check in at Opape.

Once out on the water, the headwinds changed to a stiffening offshore breeze ahead of a front approaching over the ranges. Strong offshore gusts knocked me off balance a couple of times and was more concerning than the strong onshore winds of yesterday. Held a 100m off shore for security. Fortunately I just got the edge of the front as it passed through just before landing at Opape.

Opape Beach
Opape Beach looking west to Opotiki
Opape beach looking east

After seeing the front pass by l decided to push through to Torere while conditions were OK and trying to get the most out of a late start. Easy surf at Opape. Beautiful rock hopping around the points to Torere.

The coastal lowlands and long white beaches of the western BOP now gives way to a more rugged and menacing landscape where stony bays are punctuated by a succession of narly looking Points as far as you could see towards Cape Runaway. And then the adventure really returns with the reputation of East Cape (and beyond) looming; anticipation returning for the first time since North Cape.

On my way to Torere, looking back at Opape
Weaving through the rocks between Opape and Haurere Point
Haurere Point (Torere in the background)
Torere at the end of the bay

Approaching the beach at Torere where Shaz is waiting to guide me in. The first stony beach since east Coromandel north of Whangapoua.
There was no surf but could see that the beach was steep so expected a small shore dump. Worked up some pace on the back of a wave so that I could get as far up the beach as possible, hopefully providing a second or two extra for a quick exit. Good practice anyway. Easy enough landing but wondering what a high tide could offer up.

Shaz guiding me in ahead
Stony Torere Beach at low tide

Shaza…… Had breakfast and packed up from Jan and Vic’s place then head for Ohope beach.

Launching from Ohope beach at the far end, off Phillips Street beach access, dragging the kayak down to the beach.

Brent was on the water by 8.52am. He wants to make up for yesterday and try to make it to Omaio beach. 

Drive to Opotiki , stopped at Ohiwa beach and called Brent on the VHF. He said that he was making good progress, I drove on arriving at Waiotahe beach at 10.20am what a beautiful stop and waited for him to go past to make contact once again.

Waiotahe beach

He was still making progress, wind starting to get a little stronger. Brent suggested we meet for lunch at Opotiki along the beach somewhere.

Drove past Opotiki for about 5 minutes, no access to Opotiki due to sand dunes.  Found a rest area which was also an overnight camping area for motorhomes/self contained vehicles. Meet some lovely people that had pulled up for a cuppa! OMG so looking forward to getting our campervan!

Crowd waiting (well one or two people)

Lovely people really interested in what Brent was doing. They stayed around and talked to him which was really nice for him! He landed on the beach at 1pm. 


The headwind was getting stronger, so Brent wasn’t to sure how much further he would go but to check in with him near Opape. Off I went heading for Opape, missed the turn off and went on over the hill to Torere. No cellphone reception here, so headed back down the road and saw Opape Camp ground sign so turned down there. Contacted Brent and he said that he was coming in, as a front was coming through.

Opape beach

After a short time the front passed through and he decided to continue on to a least Torere! At least it knocks off another hour of his journey. Torere is a very stony/pebbly beach, a little steep but should be ok Brent can handle it NO problem!

Torere beach

Landed on Torere beach at 4.55pm, he pulled the kayak up the stony beach to the Ute. Loaded up and headed to Opotiki for the night. May go for a short paddle tomorrow before heading home.