15. Wairoa to Waimarama

22 – 24 November, 2019

We are now within easier driving distance from home to our launch spot, making a long weekend trip worthwhile. The forecast conditions in Hawke’s Bay look good enough to get through, and beyond, their dumping beaches. Good vehicle access to exit points also means I can leave all my solo gear at home.

THIS TRIP: Wairoa to Waimarama – 3 paddle days

Overall Distance: 125.9km Time: 20.5hrs Ave Speed: 6.1km/hr


22 November, 2019

Wairoa to Tangoio

Distance 55.6km Time 8h 50m Speed 6.3km/hr
Ready to depart Whakamahi Beach (Wairoa). A gentle offshore wind.

Arrived at Whakamahi beach feeling pretty jaded after the overnight road trip from home. Wanted to get an early enough launch today to at least get to Waipatiki Beach. Possibly Tangoio.

Clocked up over 2000km of the circumnavigation, on this leg to Tangoio. The first 1000km was done in 27 paddle days at an average of 6.13km/hr. The 2000km has taken 54 paddle days at 6.0km/hr.

Good to peek over the dunes to see the forecast low surf on arrival. On the water by 0900 while Shaz visited Wairoa and would then head off the Waipatiki Beach for our next rendezvous. Hugged the shoreline past Waihua and Mohaka, then cut a straight track towards Waipatiki beach that is recessed where the Rocky Range meets the coast. A light beam on SE breeze developed along the way. Approaching the golden sands of Waipatiki Beach (7.5 hours later), Shaz contacted me by VHF and suggested I come in for coffee. At this stage I was keen to finish the day and get to Tangoio Beach, only an hours paddle away. Feeling paddle weary now, I took the easy option of a gel pack to give me a short term boost to the end.

Waipatiki Beach 7.5hrs after launch from Wairoa
Rounding Flat Rock to Tangoio

Cut close around Flat Rock to a sheltered Bay where a yacht was anchored; and landed right in front of Shaz parked in a great spot just above the beach. Glad to enjoy a beer after a solid day.

Flat Rock
Arrived at Tangoio Beach. Flat Rock behind.

A shorter day to Te Awanga is planned tomorrow but will get an early start anyway.


21 November 2019

Shaza……Left New Plymouth this afternoon at 4pm, heading towards Napier. We drove as far as Tarawera Tavern and campsite along the Taupo – Napier highway and stayed the night arriving at 9pm.

22 November 2019

Up early and drove to Wairoa, down Whakamahi Road to where Brent finished last time arriving about 8.30am. Brent wants to be on the water by 9am, as its going to be a long day! All sorted and on the water by 8.50am. 

Whakamahi Beach
Easy launch today!

After cleaning up the van from breakfast I drove into Wairoa to the Eastend Cafe for a coffee and muffin. Caught up on some emails and banking before going to the NZMCA dump station to top up the fresh water. Upon arriving there was someone else emptying the SOG (poo) tank and had parked their car in front of the potable drinking water tap. So I waited very patiently until she finished emptying her poo tank and then move. OMG, the dirty bitch then took her poo tank from the waste area that had a flushing tap, to the potable drinking water tap and put the poo tank spout up to this tap and flushed the tank! “WTF, dirty bitch”, I said it to myself but it came out louder than I meant it to and she heard me as I had the window open. She promptly gave me the fingers to which I drove off as there was no way I was getting my fresh water from that tap!

Filled up with diesel, then to the supermarket for some beer for Brent!

From Wairoa I headed for Waipatiki Beach where Brent will make contact via VHF if he’s had enough and wants to come in. Decided not to take the gravel road and carried on towards Napier. Approaching Napier I decided to go into Napier to the Warehouse and get somethings for tomorrow as it’s Brent’s birthday, its only 20 minutes further down the road. Got what I wanted and then headed back towards the turnoff to Waipatiki Beach. A really nice spot, a few families down at the beach after school and some teenagers having a few sneaky drinks along the beach. One dad taking his 3 girls out on a canoe, having a great time! 

Made myself a coffee and waited for Brent to come by and see what he was going to do! Made contact with him via VHF at 4.40pm as he came into sight, he was happy to carry on Tangoio beach! No freedom camping places here at Waipatiki beach either, camp ground was $36 per night!

I drove onto Tangoio and set up came for the night, nice spot right on the sea edge with amazing views down to Napier. Brent landed on the beach around 5.50pm. 

Tangoio Beach
Tangoio Beach looking towards Napier

Nice evening and very peaceful.


23 November, 2019

Tangoio to Te Awanga

Distance 34.3km Time 6.1hrs Speed 5.6km/hr

Parking up for the night wherever you land is one of the great benefits of the camper van; allowing also for the earliest launch the next day. And so I did today.

Launch from Tangoio

On the water at sunrise while Shaz waves me off from the door of the camper.

Looking back after launch. Camper parked above Tangoio beach.

Sun up is the best time to be on the water. It’s quieter ………. and generally calmer ……….. and a chance to get the most out of the day. Only targeting Te Awanga today, 6 hours away, as a moderate southerly is forecast around Cape Kidnappers this afternoon.

Approaching Napier port

Enjoyed a flat crossing to Napier harbour then hugged the foreshore until Shaz spotted me from Marine Parade and suggested I come ashore for a coffee.

Coming in for coffee on the Napier foreshore
Looking north along Napier foreshore

Continued a very pleasant paddle close to the shoreline in easy conditions. Came within shouting distance of the many fishermen off the Clive and Tukituki River mouths. As I closed within a kilometre or so of Te Awanga a 15-18kt southerly headwind suddenly kicked in with its associated steep chop. Shaz waved me in to another great spot she had found for the camper; right on the beach. Enjoyed a lazy afternoon and evening as the southerly died away. Set myself up for another early launch towards Cape Kidnappers tomorrow. Really looking forward to that.

Relaxing at the end of the day at Te Awanga. Roast lamb on the BBQ. Cape Kidnappers in the distance.

Happy Birthday Brent!

Shaza…….Brent up early this morning, had his breakfast and on the water by 5.49pm. Beautiful morning, gorgeous sunrise! 

Tangoio Beach launch

Took my time having breakfast and packing up before heading off to Napier and meeting Brent for coffee around 9am along Marine Parade somewhere.

Found a park on Marine Parade near a really nice little cafe called ‘The Six Sisters’. Sat out on the deck outside over looking the beach across the road. One of the nicest coffee’s I’ve had in ages, well done guys. 

As it’s Brents birthday today I brought him a nice Spinach & Feta scone and ginger slice to have with his coffee further down the beach. 

I walked across the road to see if I could see him and there he was just off the shore from where I was, ran back to the camper to get VHF and called him. He paddled along to where I was and came into shore at 9.15am.

Coming in for coffee

Then I went and brought him a coffee from The Six Sisters which he enjoyed with his treats!

He was back on the water by 9.45am, and I headed for Hastings to do a little Christmas shopping at Kmart. Didn’t last long, so many people so many kids the place was packed, not at all enjoyable! I guess it’s Saturday and everyone had the same idea, oh well never mind! I then headed for Clifton Reserve beach, where I will meet Brent and we will stay the night! I found a spot right on the sea edge again, between other camper vans/motorhomes, plenty of people here for tonight. Brent came ashore at 12.45pm, a shorter day today! The waves were breaking onto the beach, which made it a little bit interesting! Watching him come in, he tried for a quick exit but forgot to remove his camelbak drinking tube from under his spray skirt. So that he didn’t rip the tube, he tried to stay with the kayak to remove it. Entertainment for everyone!

Landing at Te Awanga
Realised about now that he was still attached by his camelbak tube

He dragged his kayak up the pebble beach close to the camper and we had some lunch and relaxed for the rest of the afternoon. The sunshine was nice but the wind was a little annoying, people were fishing with torpedo longlines and one fella had a longline attached to a raft with a sail. Well the wind just blew it over the top of surfcasters! Swimmers in the dumping surf and a drone added to the entertainment.

Different people came and talked to Brent about his kayak and had he been fishing, and are really surprised when he tells them what he is actually doing! 

As it was Brent’s birthday I cooked roast lamb on the BBQ with some roasties, followed by cherries, strawberries, yoghurt and chocolate cover Russian fudge. 

Yum ……..

24 November, 2019

Te Awanga to Waimarama

Distance 36.0km Time 5.6hrs Speed 6.4km/hr

Another early start to get the best of the day around Cape Kidnappers and to end the day at Waimarama as early as possible so we could get on the road back home. It’s about 6 hours to Waimarama so should be there well before lunchtime.

The sunrise this morning was clearly tainted by the smoke from the recent Aussie bush fires.

Sunrise over Cape Kidnappers shrouded with Aussie smoke

Have been really looking forward to the twin highlights of Black Reef and Cape Kidnappers today. Love the anticipation of negotiating new and potentially challenging territory. Looks like I will have calm conditions to enjoy this area.

Although it was calm, I still battened down against the unexpected. Last night a local kayaker warned me of the “hydraulics” in the area. Whatever that meant!

Approaching Black Reef. Gannet colony below the cliffs (right)
My gap through Black Reef. Cape Kidnappers beyond.
Cutting through Black Reef

Could have hung out around Black Reef all day! Beautiful clear water, plenty of areas to explore. The gannet colony is at the base of the cliffs where Black Reef breaks out from the shore. This is not a particularly big colony unless it extended up the cliffs beyond my view. There is an easy beach just on the other side of Black Reef that would make a great overnighter one day.

Way to quickly the pressure came on the continue progress towards Waimarama. Focussed now on the gap between Cape Kidnappers and its prominent offshore pinnacle. From a distance, even in these calm conditions, I could see breakers in the gap. It was calm enough to have a close look though.

Heading for the gap at Cape Kidnappers

Found that, despite there being some turbulence and surge through the gap, it was an easy enough transit in the conditions.

Rounding Cape Kidnappers

Found another gannet colony just on the other side of the Cape that I had a closer look at. A gentle NE tailwind eased in as I turned the corner and set a steady pace along Ocean Beach towards conspicuous Bare Island.

Ocean Beach

So far, down this part of the Hawke’s Bay/Wairarapa long golden sand beaches are punctuated by limestone cliffy points. For now, at least, we seem to be clear of the steeper dumping shoreline.

Shaz contacted me by VHF as I approached Waimarama and guided me into the spot where boats were being launched straight off the beach, using a rocky outcrop for a bit of protection. Thankfully back to a more “normal” surf entry.

Coming through the surf at Waimarama
Boat launching in lee of rocks. Bare Island behind.
View north from Waimarama
Tractor and boat trailer park. Top of camper parked behind.
View of Waimarama and Bare Island

Shaz ………… Brent up really early this morning to get a few hours paddling in as we are going home today. He was up around 4.30am, had his breakfast dressed and ready to go! He was on the water by 5.20am! 

I got up to see him leave and took a few photos of him going, another beautiful morning and the wind had dropped!

He saw me standing at the door of the camper and gave me the usual wave with his paddle!

I went back to bed, to try and get some sleep only for my world to start rocking at 5.30am, EARTHQUAKE! Found out later it was a 5.3 earthquake, so a good shake! Up and ready by 6.30am enjoyed my coffee and breakfast ……. time to kill! When I was outside the neighbour asked what time he left and when I told him he said he wasn’t surprised! He said that Brent seemed very passionate about what he was doing and sure to meet his end goal. He told me about the Hastings Farmer market on this morning and it has been going for years, so I thought I’d go for a look! It didn’t open until 8.30am, so stopped on the way an got a coffee at Brown Dog Espresso just down the road from the camp. Not bad, had better! Arrived at the market, heaps of people there already getting there fruit and vege. I got some cheese, avocados, strawberries and a good look around before leaving for my drive to Waimamara. Only stopping at Havelock North to empty my waste tanks and then the 30 minute drive to Waimamara. I parked up in a little park area right next to the beach, lots of boats out fishing today. All the tractors and trailers parked along the beach. 

Boat trailers lined up on the beach at Waimarama

Made contact with Brent by VHF as I could see him in the distance, he said that he was about another 10 minutes away. I told him where to come in and he said he would follow where the boats are going. As he got closer I moved the camper as I was on the wrong side of the bridge to get to him. He landed on the beach at 11.09am without any problems.

After having some lunch and then packing everything up we started the long journey home to the Naki!

10. Bay Of Plenty – Onemana to Papamoa

22 – 23 February, 2019

This was an unlikely long weekend trip weatherwise, however being there meant that I could take opportunities on the water as they presented themselves. Left home on Thursday afternoon and booked into Whangamata campground on the way. The punt proved fruitful, making yards on two consecutive days.

THIS TRIP: Onemana to Papamoa – 2 paddle days

Overall Distance 86.2 km Time 12.36 hrs Average Speed 7.0 km/hr

Distance 86.2km , Time 12.36hrs , Average Speed 7.0km/hr

Friday 22 February 2019

Onemana to Bowentown

Distance 40.6km , Time 5.96hrs , Average Speed 6.8km/hr

Shorter drive to Coromandel last night arriving at Whangamata campground at 1930.
Up at 0530 to cook breakfast but no big rush as the campground gates aren’t opened until 0700. It’s been raining overnight with forecast suggesting a light northerly rising later.
Just a 10 minute drive to Onemana and curious (as always) to see what the surf would look like, now close to full tide this time. Good to see the surf break was gone leaving a large shore dump about 20 meters off the steep beach. Would be an easy launch if I got my timing right. Well, this time it wasn’t! Managed to plow straight into a dumper as it broke over the bow. I got picked up and shunted straight back up the beach. Somehow stayed upright and quickly realised that my paddle float had been forced out and overboard from under the 3 deck bungies and the deck bag tie-downs. Out of reach, I managed to get it back onboard using the paddle and frantically continue my exit attempt before the next dumper. With no time to secure the paddle float (now jammed under the deck bag) I slammed into the next dumper and lost it overboard again while, again, being thrown back up the beach. Third time lucky …….. retrieved the paddle float with the paddle again and continued on the next, and successful, attempt to get off the beach. If I had just been patient and got my timing right in the first place ………………..!

A nice wet (drenched) start to the day. Once clear, had a giggle with Shaz on the VHF. Would have been a crack-up to see on video.

Set off on calm sea with rain all around but mostly over the land. Had the compass on standby but the visibility on the water remained good all day. Scheduled a VHF check with Shaz for one hour at Whangamata. A light northerly gathered and the sea got a little lumpy.

Whangamata VHF check-in
Whangamata (south end)

Another VHF check-in at Whiritoa an hour and a half later. The sea is a little uncomfortable now but advised Shaz that I would be fine for the next 2 hour paddle to Waihi Beach; and lunch.

Decided to go on to Ocean Beach, Bowentown about 8km south down the beach from Waihi and call it an early finish for the day. The sea had got unpleasantly lumpy now and I didn’t fancy pushing on to the next accessible point of Mt Maunganui, 4 hours further paddle past Matakana Island.

The Ocean Beach sandbanks, courtesy of the Katikati entrance to Tauranga Harbour, had to be negotiated with care. It was now the tail end of the ebbing tide opposing the northerly chop just to make it interesting. Managed to weave my way through to land in one piece right in front of Shaz.


Shaz ………… We arrived at Whangamata holiday Park around 7.40pm last night, we had booked into a kitchen cabin. It was awful! It smelt old and musty. Oh well it is what it is I guess!! Not a good nights sleep, sore back old lumpy mattress, the bed creaks every time you move, No running hot water in kitchen sink (there was a hot tap, just no hot water). Not good value for money at all, $100 for cabin per night plus $1 for a shower! Not getting a good review from me!

Up early, but gates don’t open until 7am. We head for Onemana beach 9.3km 10 minute drive, not to far.

Launching from Onemana Beach

Brent set off in dumpy conditions this morning. A dumping wave washed him back up the beach and his paddle float out from the bungies under the deck bag. Managed to retrieve it quickly with his paddle before it all happened again with the next wave. By the time I got my phone out of my dry bag, I had missed all the action. It would have been good footage too!

Back at camp I showered and packed up, then had to do dishes, sweep up, take our rubbish with us or they would charge a cleaning fee to your credit card! BULLSHIT, for that money what did we get ‘a bad taste in your mouth’! 

It is raining now, Brent went past Whangamata beach around 8.30am I made contact him ……. he wasn’t worried about the rain. He said that it was quite calm out there.

Whangamata Beach

I drove onto Whiritoa beach and saw him go past there at 10am.

Whiritoa Beach

Has been raining even harder stopped now though but still not bothering him our there. He said that the wind had got up a little bit, but not a problem! He said he will see me in Waihi Beach for lunch in about 2.5hrs. 

Got a coffee at ‘Daisy Chain Cafe really good coffee too! The lady that owns the cafe had this awesome picture on the wall she got in Paris 15 years ago. It was a drawing of a Rhinoceros’s head, with the ‘Louvre’ for the lump on his nose and the ‘Eiffel Tower’ for his horn. The artist was a conservationist and was drawing animals that are endangered and wanted people to take notice and protect these animals. It was so good, she watched him sketch it and asked if he was going to sell it! He was, so she waited until he finished it and carried it around for the rest of her OE.

Our trusty Ute parked at Waihi beach

Brent arrived at Waihi Beach about 12.30pm, had lunch ready for him.

Looking down over Bowentown & Waihi beach’s

After lunch he set off for Ocean Beach at Bowentown about an hour down Waihi Beach. Conditions have got a little worse now, it was an interesting launch, not to worry I got it all on video! WRONG, hadn’t push record had I! Silly woman that’s twice today I’ve missed some good footage.

Staying tonight at Bowentown Beach Holiday Park, in kitchen cabin $95 per night! Flash, no smells, clean, good bed, bunk beds, very nice kitchen, fridge freezer, table and chairs and TV! Woohoo!! Raining again, but they really need it up here!

Ocean Beach at Bowentown

Lady from the camp was walking past and saw Brent’s kayak outside with all his gear on it. She was concerned as last Saturday night someone stole a fisherman’s kayak and all his gear, also stole bikes and other things from around the camp. Looking at the security camera’s it was about 2am in the morning, she suggested that Brent could put the kayak in there garage behind their locked gates to their house which he did. 


Saturday 23 February 2019

Bowentown to Papamoa

Distance 45.6km , Time 6.4hrs , Average Speed 7.1km/hr

Later start as weather front was due to pass through this morning. Forecasts aren’t consistent but worst is meant to be a moderate SW that could slow me down. I could get some cover from Matakana Island for the 4 hour paddle to Mt Maunganui, if necessary. Walked to the top of Bowentown Heads, just behind the motor camp, to check the conditions at the Katikati entrance and bar and get a better feel for the weather coming out of the west. Higher tide now and the bar looked narly on both sides of the entrance. Weather looked to be clearing from the west now with patches of clear sky showing. No wind to speak of.

Got Secala from the campground garage that the Campground owner offered due to recent spate of thefts. Owner was intrigued by my trip and keen hear all about it.

Higher tide for the launch today smoothing over some outer breaks but still breaking on the larger sets. Definitely need to be very watchful here.
Paddled a long way out before I was comfortable to stop beyond the breakers. Came uncomfortably close to one breaking wave a long way off shore.
After the routine VHF check-in with Shaz I set on my way to negotiate the bar on the south side of the entrance.
Anxious moments until things flattened out and happy at last to relax into the paddle. Wind conditions were a ripple of a NE that didn’t change all the way to the Mount. Still a grey day though and watchful behind and to the west for any sign of a change.
Approaching the Mount, Shaz called to say surf was high at the Mount beach and suggested to head around Moturiki island. Did this and had a nice ride to the beach in lower surf. Am getting to like these lunchtime breaks with Shaz on the beach.
As I prepared to re-launch some young lifeguards offered to push me into the water. Suggested that that would be cheating and declined, but nice the see young folk offer help to an old man. (I bet they wouldn’t give up their seat in the bus though)
Set out through the surf as the wind had come away from the SW and picked up to about 10kts. Making good speed and feeling strong. Could have easily pushed on to Maketu a couple of hours further on but had a dinner date with Jan and Vic at Thornton which was another hours drive away.

Shaz called up to guide me in to Papamoa. Had a good ride in through the surf until the last shore break dumped me despite my brace attempt. Shaz sure to have had a good laugh.
A guy from one of the beach houses came out to give me the thumbs up for my ride and offered to help me up the beach with Secala. Talked to him for a bit about what I was doing.


Shaz …………. Great nights sleep, in a comfy bed! Rained all night, they really need it up here! I got up around 6.45am, Brent must be outside checking the conditions. When he came back it was after 7.15am, said that it looked OK but was going to wait for the 8am weather forecast before making his final decision. He went to the camp owners house to retrieve his kayak and get organised just in case. Happy with the weather report and was keen to go and knock another day off his adventure. Headed down to the beach (across country this time) at the end of the camp access rather the road. 

Cross country entry to Ocean Beach at Bowentown
Launching at Ocean Beach

I stayed up on the boardwalk and watched him and get ready to video his launch as it maybe a ‘hairy one’. On the water by 8.15am, took 20 minutes to get out past the breakers. He turned on his inReach at 8.35am and started to head for Mt Maunganui where I will meet him for lunch.

Looking across towards Mt Maunganui from Ocean Beach; 2 ships in the distance

Back to camp showered, packed and headed off for Mt Maunganui. Along the way I stopped at Waihi Beach town had a coffee and a look around the shops. One of the shops there was ‘The French Shop’, wanted to have a look in there but didn’t open until 10am that’s the French for you!! Sorry Alex! 

I set off for the Mount, no places to stop off and make contact with Brent as he was on the other side of Matakana Island. The Mount was a busy place today, full of Americans from on board the cruise ship that was in port. Being a Saturday doesn’t help, as everyone was at the beach! It was an overcast day but that didn’t stop people, especially the surfers. The main beach was great for the surfers, but not so good for Brent to come in on!

Mt Maunganui beach

Waves were dumping on the beach, so suggested that he come in on the other side of Moturiki Island. He landed on the beach at 12.45pm, good ride in!

We had lunch on the beach, and talked about whether he wanted to go onto Maketu. Decided to go down the beach to Papamoa somewhere, about where the road ends. 

Brent was back on the water at 1.17pm. I went on looking at the shops, got some beer for Brent when he finished. Driving down the road there aren’t many places where you can get access to the beach from the car without a long walk. So I looked around and found Motiti Road with a beach access car park, perfect! Called Brent on VHF as I could see him! Right next to me was a house with a Blue gazebo right on the edge of their property and the beach told him to head for that! He saw it and headed for that, said that he was packing down his gear and coming in. OMG what a ride he had and then right at the last minute over he went! He hasn’t come out like that for a while and I actually got all that on video! Thumbs up for me, as I have sucked at that lately.

Some locals witnessed Brent’s landing/capsize, and came down to the beach to talk to him. He said that he has lived here a long time and seen a lot of people come in, but none of them had had a great ride in like Brent. He was even kind enough to help lift the kayak up the steps to the Ute.

Locals that witnessed his landing!!

Tonight we are going to Jan and Vic’s for the night in Thornton, Whakatane. Vic (82yrs) is looking forward to Brent coming in at Thornton beach. Heading home tomorrow, until next time!

7. Beyond the Bridge – Matauri Bay to Pohutakawa Bay

28 December, 2018 – 05 January, 2019

This trips timing was solely geared around utilising the traditional leave period over Christmas and New Year to advance as far as I could down the coast towards Coromandel, weather permitting. Unsuitable weather did delay our departure from New Plymouth until Boxing Day when we made our way to set up base camp at Tutukaka. This would be our base for the next 6 nights.

After a day (27th Dec) in camp waiting out the persistent southerlies, we were fortunate to get on the water for eight of the following nine days and both of us were very happy to have advanced south of the Bridge at last, and put those travel woes through Auckland behind us.

THIS TRIP: Matauri Bay to Pohutakawa Bay 8 paddle days

Overall Distance 296.5 km Time 53.07 hrs Average Speed 5.6 km/hr


Friday, 28 December, 2018

Matauri Bay to Outu Bay

Distance 48.2 km Time 8.7 hr Average speed 5.5 km/hr

An early rise for the 2 hour commute to Matauri Bay. Encouraging to look down on calm conditions as we arrive.


1000hrs ……. the waiting is over ………… itching to get on the water now.

Rocky Point ahead and Cape Brett in the distance (top left)

Flat conditions for the launch with Secala laden for overnight camp. My intentions were to head for Deep Water Cove (just inside the Cape) for the night, where there was no road access.

Enjoyed light winds from NE all day. In the middle of the bay crossing I came across several large areas of discoloured water where dozens of petrels and JC (jesus christ) birds were eagerly feeding. I scooped out handfuls of these critters that appeared to be tiny krill. Largely transparent with clearly two eyes and overall no bigger than half a grain of rice.

A few of the jesus birds (White faced storm petrel) in the area. Cape Brett in the distance.

Approaching Cape Brett after 7 hours I decided to progress around the Cape and find a beach on the other side knowing there were options at Outu Bay, Te Toroa Bay or Whangamumu an hour or two paddle away.

Approaching Cape Brett and Percy Island
Cape Brett lighthouse

Enjoyed a paddle through the “hole in the rock” with no other traffic

Percy Island’s “Hole in the Rock”

Ended up at the beautiful and sheltered Outu Bay being enjoyed by a couple of anchored boats. Paddled alongside and nattered to a women as she was rowing her dingy around the bay. Landed at the larger rocky beach, now in the evening shade, but there wasn’t any flat grassed areas to pitch a tent so headed across the bay to a small beach still in the evening sun, hoping to find a better place to camp.

Protected anchorage at Outu Bay. Camped on beach across the bay (middle left of picture)
Sizing up my beach camp at about 1900hrs
Setting up camp on rocks above the high water mark
The next morning ….. showing the overnight high tide mark

The tent site options were no better here but could at least enjoy the evening in the last of the days sun. A dehydrated feed of spaghetti bog and a chat to Brett from the nearby anchored yacht. Glad to have a good sleeping mat between me and the rocks tonight.


Shaz ……………… Up early this morning, left camp at 7am for Matauri Bay just on a 2 hr drive. Oops, ended up by telling Brent to go longer way by 9 minutes! Never said as I had already told him to change direction once!! Oh well we got there in good time! Arrived at Matauri Bay, never went via motor camp this time not getting another $10 out of me! There is a large turning bay next to camp with a sign ‘No PARKING AT ALL TIMES’, needless to say we parked there unloaded and packed the kayak ready for Brent. Then I went and parked in the public car park and walked down to the beach to meet Brent! 

He was on the water by 10am! I left there and drove back up the road and turned left onto road by shop/cafe. Great views from up here, but no where to stop and park for photos; all privately owned homes, but I tried from inside the Ute (photos not too bad)

Matauri Bay with Cavalli Islands behind
Cavalli Islands

Stopped at Kerikeri and went to supermarket, OMG what a difference a couple of weeks make! It’s so busy people and traffic everywhere. On my way back to Tutakaka I decided that I’d go back via the Bay of Islands and have some lunch at Paihia. I thought Kerikeri was busy but not a patch on Paihia; parking is a joke hard to find; people driving round and round the car park! But not me someone pulled out and I pulled in!! Some good person even paid for parking for 1hr for several people leaving tickets on top of pay machine! Good day, enough time for me to get some lunch at the Craft Bar & Kitchen on the waterfront.

At Paihia
Paihia jetty

I thought I’d drive down to Opua and have a look to see if Owen Glen’s private boat is still docked here. Chris told Brent that Sam was head cook on board, sure enough it was still there. Apparently it has engine problems or something, I asked a guy who was about to board if Sam Sharp was onboard. She was; so he went and told her that I was outside. She was busy preparing lunch for 8 people so we didn’t have long, just a quick hello and catch up! Owen Glen was onboard with his guests. 

Shaz selfie with Sam
Ubiquitous ……… Sam (niece) is Head Chef

Back at camp and the place is really filling up now! Brent messaged me at 7.06pm to say he had landed at Outu Bay for the night! 


Saturday, 29 December, 2018

Outu Bay to Woolleys Bay

Distance 46.2 km Time 9.0 hr Average speed 5.1 km/hr

Surprisingly good sleep on the rocks despite waking twice during the night ……… and a peek outside to check on the rising tide!

Up at 5.30 to my usual “getaway” breakfast of muesli, banana and protein shake before decamping. On the water just after 7.

Beautiful calm clear morning. Couldn’t check my usual forecast apps without the internet however once settled on my way to Home Point the VHF nowcasting broadcast South 10kt dying away with NE in afternoon. However a southerly 8 – 10 persisted all day which accounted for a slower pace today.

Another beautiful coast though. Prominent Home Pt had a good surge around it and passed within a few meters of a couple of cruising sharks just off the point. One of them was rather large and thankfully paid no attention to me.

Approaching Home Point. Danger Rock and Rimariki Island in the distance.

Pasted within a few meters of some locals fishing from their boat but they weren’t at all friendly. The intimidating Danger Rock had a few fishing boats surrounding it.

Danger Rock

Although well hydrated I started to feel tired after 7 hours and passing Whananaki. After a bit of Christmas cake and a peanut slab I was all good to go again.

Titi Island just off Roimata Point
Motutohe Island just before the rounding to Whananaki

Passing inside Elizabeth Reef and line of sight to Woolleys Bay, I tried to reach Shaz via VHF. Wasn’t sure which of the beaches to head for until I got a lot closer. Another 9 hour day but less miles covered.

Arrived Woolleys Bay and short trip back to Tutukaka camp for the night

What a beaut bay. Later found out that my brother used to give surf lessons here back in the day. A surf school still operates on this beach. Nice to have only an 8km drive return to Tutukaka camp.

Woolleys Bay

Shaz …………. It’s only 6.15am and all is quiet in the camp, why aren’t you sleeping Sharon! At 6.30am I went and had a shower, first in gets the warm shower and no queue’s! The sun is pouring into the tent, gorgeous morning! Did a little bit of washing today, then I went for a walk into Tutukaka! Walked around the marina, some flash boats here lots of money, lots! Got a coffee and sat down watching everyone boarding a boat for some tour. 

Had a quiet time reading at camp while waiting for Brent to let me know where to pick him up. He rang and pick up at 3pm from Woolley Bay. Lots of swimmers and boaties here today having lots of fun in the water. One boat even drove down the road, onto the beach and straight into the water!

Brent got in around 4pm!

Routine of securing the deck before surf re-entry

Have a little picnic ready for him, as after 9 hrs paddling he might need it! 

Picnic ready!

Back at camp, unpack, sit and relax for a bit before getting dinner ready. Boy they have packed the campers in tonight!! A couple of guys here with bloody drones, very annoying for a lot of campers!


Sunday, 30 December, 2018

Woolleys Bay to Ocean Beach 

Distance 37.3 km Time 5.8 hr Average speed 6.4 km/hr

No rush this morning as theres only a 6 hr paddle planned to Bream Head and a small commute to launch at Woolleys Bay.

Another clear and calm day with easy launch. This is to good to be true. If the whole coast was like this everybody would be doing it.

Very enjoyable paddle close to bluffs and shoals around Tutukaka Head.

Tutukaka Head …….. (Taiharuru Head faintly in the background)

Cruised past Tutukaka harbour entrance dodging the flash boats and headed for Taiharuru point across Ngunguru Bay. Sent a txt to Shaz in case she was having a morning coffee by the marina.

Tutukaka Harbour Entrance

Rounding Tutukaka, the prominent and familiar Bream Head destination came into view.

A whisper of a northerly was welcome after yesterday which gradually increased to 8-10kts. So much easier paddling.

Approaching Ocean Beach …………. Prominent Bream Head on the left

Arrived at Ocean beach a little ahead of schedule. Surfers to the right and a patrolled swimming area on the left. Shaz guided me in expertly saying to head for “Rip” sign she was standing beside …….. while I was still 2k away! Caught a ride in at the bottom of a nice wave before bracing into the beach as it broke. Happy to stay in tact in front of a busy beach of on-lookers. Shaz was impressed.

Ocean Beach surf patrolled area
Surfers at north end of beach
Definitely a place to return

Only down side was the long drag of the Secala over soft sand to the car park. A place to return to for sure 


Shaz …………….. Not much chance of sleep in this morning, with the birds singing and the cows mooing! Went for early shower (at 6.15am) to beat the rush, another lady had the same thought! Put my 50 cents in, NO hot water bloody cold shower! Thought maybe I had put money in wrong slot (for shower next to me), knocked on the door and asked if she had hot water, her reply was ‘NO it’s f…ing cold…’! Not a good start to the day!

Rowdy calf

Very, very noisy calf can’t find its mum! Drove Brent to Woolleys Bay and he was on the water by 8.30am. Beautiful morning, just a few people walking their dogs along the beach, couple of joggers and a kayak fisherman just come in with his catch of the day. 

Easy launch at Woolleys
Whale Bay (adjacent to Woolleys Bay)

Photo above taken from Whale Bay carpark, looking down on Brent between the trees!

Went for coffee and breakfast at Schnappers Rock cafe and this van was parked outside, what can I say!! Went back to camp, and Daniel rang! He couldn’t get over how great it looked here, the sun shining and they are freezing in Paris! Never mind they’ll be here in 10 days time! Did a bit of reading before heading to Ocean Beach at the Whangarei Heads. About an hours drive, passing through some lovely bays and a good view of Marsden Point across the harbour. Brent arrived about 2.30pm at Ocean Beach, very busy beach life guards on duty. Waves dumping on the beach, but Brent mastered it no problem. 

Ocean Beach ………helmet for surf re-enrty ………….. wary of timing the kayak exit
Surf always looks different from the beach

Coffee at McLeods Bay on the way back to Tutakaka.

Weary but content after another enjoyable day on the water ……. and another Shaz picnic to look forward to.

Monday, 31 December, 2018

Ocean Beach to Langs Beach

Distance 24.0 km Time 4.2 hr Average speed 5.7 km/hr

A one hour ride back to Ocean beach this morning. Looks like another great day to be had on the water. Felt more at home launching through some surf and taking a couple over the bow today. Morning surfers bid me a safe trip.

Had spoken to Lynn Paterson about a possible arrival at Mangawhai. Although she hadn’t any first hand info she kindly got back to me with some good information from a kayaker friend she had who lived there. However, we later found out that there was a large New Years eve event being held there, so we decided to avoid this place. Lang’s Beach was the new destination.

Approaching Bream Head ………….. Taranga Island (Hen & Chicks Islands) on the left.

Rounded Bream Head to a calm Bream Bay until about a third of the way across when I saw an ominous layer of gray clouds rolling in from the west. Sure enough, within minutes, this brought in moderate SW head winds (12-15kts) and its associated chop. Turned Secala enough to put the chop off the bow for a smoother ride. Ground out the next couple of hours until the wind and chop abated as I closed in on the lee of Langs Beach. A bit of an unexpected grind today but glad to get across the open expanse of Bream Bay.

Clocked up my first 1000km on arrival on this leg in 27 paddle days at an average 6.13km/hr


Shaz …………. Later start today, leave camp at 8am, and arrive at Ocean Beach at 9am. By the time we pack the kayak and Brent’s drags it down to the beach; he finally gets on the water at 9.00am. 

Plenty of surfers this morning, the day trippers are starting to turn up and claiming their spot on the beach.

I stopped at McLeods Bay for coffee at ‘The Deck’ cafe, with views across the bay! 

McLeods Bay

I’m picking Brent up at Lang’s Beach today, as I have to go through Whangarei on the way I’ll do some shopping for Brent. He wants a flag for his kayak and some jandles as his broke last night! It’s a 40 minutes drive to Lang’s beach from Whangarei, heading south. Brent arrived at Lang’s beach about 2pm.

Lang’s beach ……. quick exit attempt

Well it’s New Years Eve, but I don’t think we will be up to see it in; too tired. We walked into Tutulaka an had a beer at the Fishing Club and then had pizza at the Marina Pizza Bar & Grill. 


Tuesday, 01 January, 2019

Langs Beach to Goat Island

Distance 37.0 km Time 7.0 hr Average speed 5.3 km/hr

January 1st and we are not in any hurry today. Packing up camp and leaving Tutukaka is another nice marker as we continue our march down the coast. A little tired of the travelling involved with the base camp strategy, we decide to use the comfort of a motel in Wellsford for a couple of nights that is central for the next couple of days paddling.

Didn’t start out from Lang’s until 1145. With a late start and the prospect of afternoon SW’lies, wasn’t sure how much paddling I would get in today. Although I do have the ability to hug the beach all the way to Goat Island, decisions will be made on the water today with possible exit points at Mangawhai, Te Arai or Pakiri.

Rounded the shelter of Bream Tail into a steady SW 12-13kts. Asked Shaz to check in with me from Mangawhai

Sentinel Rock off Mangawhai

Coming in close to Sentinel Rock and watchful of the surf at the Mangawhai bar I advised Shaz that I would catch up with her at the next road access at Te Arai Point.

Sentinel Rock guarding the entrance to Mangawhai

There were only a few accessible exits on this stretch of coastline so Shaz followed me to each one in case I was ready to call it quits for the day.

Sizing up Te Arai Point

Hugging the coast all the way to Te Arai with the wind and chop ahead of the beam was a pain and with 3 more hours to Goat Island I seriously considered pulling in here.

Chatted with Shaz on a crowded beach and decided that I would continue to Goat Island. The slight change in direction to Goat Island (about 25 degrees) put the wind and chop (gusting 15kt) more on the beam which made a big difference to the paddling effort. Hopefully it would remain that way till I got to Goat Island.

Got to Goat tired but pleased with the decision to push through. Looking forward to a motel bed!


Shaz ……….. Pack up camp day today, leaving Tutulaka after 6 nights!  Driving to Lang’s Beach for Brent to launch for Goat Island. Late launch today about 11.45pm, Brent wants to aim for Goat Island, but the wind is up! I’m going to drive to Mangawhai Heads to make contact on VHF and see how he is going!

Leaving Lang’s beach

OMG, Mangawhai is fair pumping, so many people parking is a joke! Again luck was on my side, drove straight into park as nice man said he was leaving, thank you! Had lunch at Sandbar cafe and had a little walk around. I was heading to the Mangawhai Surf club when Brent called on VHF to say he was just going past, no chance of park here, but I did see him going past from the ute! He said that he would come in at Te Arai Point as the wind was up! To get to Te Arai Point access is via a gravel road, so much traffic coming and going! The car parks are over flowing, cars parked along both sides of the road; one way traffic only – ridiculous!! I parked illegally and called Brent on VHF. I told him the situation, said I’d wait for a park! So many people in a small space; who would believe it. A surfer who comes here every day, said he’s never seen it this busy before! Patience eventually pays off, got a park in the main car park. Brent much closer, I told him the waves were big, great for the surfers though. Brent decided to go on to Goat Island after all! I went for a walk over towards the big rock as I saw a walk way over the other side! Saw a great water hole/ small for kids to swim safely! I went on over the hill and saw Brent come around the corner, called him and wished him luck! 

Te Arai Point beach

What better place to get changed, but on top of rock at Te Arai beach!

Safe swimming beach/hole for kids!

Beach on other side of rock at Te Arai Point

Crazy, jumping off rock into tidal pool! Arrived at Goat Island around 6pm, contacted Brent on VHF, but couldn’t see him!

Goat Island beach
Goat Island
Seagulls having happy time in pool of water

Landing on Goat Island beach around 6.50pm. 

Lama sculptures made from tin, awesome!


Wednesday, 02 January, 2019

Goat Island to Waiwera

Distance 42.7 km Time 7.9 hr Average speed 5.4 km/hr

Arrived as Goat Island was just getting busy for the day and launched between swimming kids at about 9.30. Intending to reach Army or Shakespear Bay on the Whangaparaoa Peninsula today.

Calm around Cape Rodney and easy paddling to Tataku point. Just an easy SW 10 headwind so far.

Cape Rodney

Plenty of tidal stream turbulence at Tataku. LW was at 1115hrs so had timed well the flood assist though Kawau’s North channel. There was a steep “wind against tide” chop through the channel. Still managed a good speed. Needed to be watchful of all the boats. Glad to be sporting my new flag.

Made for Takangaroa Island for a rest and lunch and discuss next strategy with Shaz.

Takangaroa Island with Kawau Island in the background.

Still unsure if I could make Army bay against the headwind now gusting 15kts. 

Continued to hug the shoreline down to Mahurangi Harbour in an attempt to get a better angle with the wind to maybe consider the 2 hour dash across Whangaparaoa Bay to Army Bay.  

There seemed no respite in a strenthening wind blowing parallel with the shoreline. After battling to Big Bay and pulling into the beach, I called Shaz to meet me at Waiwera.

Big Bay just outside Mahurangi Harbour. Hard to imagine a descent wind around the point. Saddle Island behind the boats.

A hard day at the office today. Glad to pull into Waiwera. As I approached the beach a guy asked me to go and check on his mate who had swum out to check on a snagged longline. Found him and he was glad to have a rest holding onto Secala. After clearing the line and starting to tow him back to the beach his mate arrived in a boat to pick him up.


Shaz ……….. Brent let me sleep in this morning, so quiet no birds, no cows and no other campers!! Then we had breakfast at Caffe Cozy, couple of minutes walk away.  Then we left for Goat Island so Brent can continue with this part of his adventure! Late start today, oh well! 

Looking down at Goat Island from Cape Rodney Road

Enjoying a coffee at the Sawmill Cafe in Leigh, before heading back to Wellsford.

I think if we’re all honest, we have spent sometime on or in the ‘Funny Farm’!!

Traffic through Wellsford at 12.40 pm, guess holidays are over for some folk! Had a relaxing afternoon at the motel, waiting for Brent to call to say where he wanted to be picked up! He rang at 4.50pm and said that he would be coming into Waiwera beach in an hour. I said that I’d leave now as traffic was bad! It was  35 minutes drive normally! Got to Dome Valley lookout and traffic came to a complete stop. We crawled our way through Warkworth, 45 minutes, so needless to say I was going to be late! Got there finally, Brent was waiting for me to tell him where to come in!

Waiwera beach, looking across to Auckland.

Landing at Waiwera

Once we were all packed up and Brent changed we had dinner at Sugar Loaf Waiwera before we came back to motel


Thursday, 03 January, 2019

Waiwera to Gulf Harbour

Distance 21.5 km Time 3.66hr Average speed 5.9 km/hr

Checked out of the Wellsford motel and headed to Cafe for breakie. Ordered eggs bene ………. which was a mistake! It was smothered in hollandaise out of a squeeze bottle. Coffee was good though.

Launched from Waiwera at about 8.40 and had the 10-12kt SW just behind my stbd beam which gave me an assist and good speed till I got to Huaroa Point at the end of the Whangaparaoa Peninsula. Hoping to make it at least to Takapuna today if I could escape the worst of the forecast SW’lies.

Rounding the peninsula the SW intensified to 20+kts. Called Shaz to say I was going to bail at Gulf harbour.

Entrance to Gulf Harbour
Definitely looked out of place in here.

Had a look around Gulf Harbour Marina before exiting at the “poor mans” boat ramp.

Boat ramp at Gulf Harbour.

Short day today but can’t complain with weather offering up 7 straight paddle days. Forecast tomorrow not promising – SW 30kts.


Shaz ……….. Up early, packed and drove to Waiwera beach. Staying at Takapuna tonight.
Brent looking like a clown face today with his zinc on his lips!

Clownface

Brent launched about 8.30am heading for Takapuna beach, so long as the conditions (wind) ok!

Heading for Whangaparaoa peninsula in the distance

Lovely drive around the coast to Orewa where I stopped for a while and looked around the shops on the beach front.

Orewa Beach

It’s been along time since I have been to Orewa, it changed a lot! It was always busy, but times that by 10! Parking in the town a nightmare! I got a takeaway coffee and muffin then found a picnic table down by beach.

Left Orewa and headed for Takapuna beach driving along SH25, then headed across to Browns Bay. Beaches very busy, so drove up to Waiake beach. Parked up and read my book for a while, until Brent contacted me an said it was hard work paddling today and he was going to come in at Gulf Harbour, on the Whangaparaoa Peninsula and he’d be there in 20 minutes. Bugger, I was 30 minutes away!never mind, back north I go! He was already up by the boat ramp when I arrived at 1pm.

Loaded up and headed for our motel in Takapuna.


Saturday, 05 January, 2019

Gulf Harbour to Pohutakawa Bay

Distance 39.6 km Time 6.8hr Average speed 5.8 km/hr

Forced off the water yesterday as the predicted SW 30kt for the Gulf played out. Today’s forecast was for early SW turning N during the day.

Earlier 0715 start today from Gulf Harbour boat ramp. Calm conditions in the gulf as I set off for the west side of Rangitoto Island. An 0800 HW meant I would be having an ebbing tide against me for the day. Made some enquires about going through Gardiners Gap on the east side of Rangitoto but the required high tide time didn’t suit today.

Kept a keen eye out for shipping that I intended to keep well away from. Didn’t need to worry about them so much as the speedy pilot boat that came unnecessarily close to me as I approached A buoy. Twats!

Some day trippers fishing off the stern of a large charter boat.

Shaz txt to say she was going over the bridge for the last time as I was rock hopping against a swift tide around the west side of Rangitoto. A real moment to savour for both of us.

Beacon marking shoaling at western extremity of Rangitoto

At the south end of Rangitoto I kept a keen eye on the channel that the Waiheke fast ferries were taking and gapped it for Brown’s Island when it was clear in both directions. Glad to be through these congested waters without any heart stopping moments.

Pulled into Brown’s Island for an early lunch (rice and tuna) and reassess the days destination. Had suggested to Shaz that I would meet her at Eastern Beach for lunch. The predicted northerly was now just kicking in so said to Shaz that I would save myself a detour and cut straight across to Pohutakawa Bay at Beachlands and that I would be there in about an hour and a half.

Brown’s Island with Rangitoto in the background.

The northerly increased to 12kt to assist me meeting my scheduled ETA with Shaz. This marks the end of this excursion north with some good miles made courtesy of some favourable weather. Can’t complain at getting eight out of a possible nine days on the water. Couldn’t happen on the west coast! We were both upbeat now about being south of the Bridge and some shorter return travel distances for a while at least. Next trip ……. across the Firth of Thames and down the Coromandel coast. Can’t wait!


Shaz ………… Early start today from Gulf Harbour! Brent set off around 7.15am for Eastern Beach. 

Just off the boat ramp at Gulf Harbour

Looking across to the Northshore

Just because you’re on holiday, doesn’t mean you can’t do exercise on your bike (set up like an Exercycle). 

Arrived at Eastern beach around 12.20pm, after doing a bit of shopping at Botany Downs. Brent contacted me a little after to say he had stopped on Brown Island for a snack and was going to go onto Beachlands rather than Eastern beach to come in! I went onto my sisters place waiting for Brent to contact me with a time to meet him. Got a text arriving at Beachlands at 2.45pm, and sure enough that’s when he arrived. 

Arriving at Pohutakawa Bay

This is his last day in the water, until he has a long weekend or leave! We stayed at my sisters for the night before heading home the next day! This is his last day in the water, until he has a long weekend or leave!