9. Coromandel – Whangapoua to Onemana

15 – 16 February, 2019

Another quick weekend away to maintain momentum while we can. Thursday (14th) evening travel to Whangapoua before a possible two and a half days on the water before returning home. Weather forecasts are inconsistent after Friday. With plenty of road access to this Coromandel coast, there will be no need for contingency of solo camping gear this trip.

THIS TRIP: Whangapoua to Onemana – 2 paddle days

Overall Distance 72.1 km Time 14.1 hrs Average Speed 5.1 km/hr

Distance 72.1km Time 14.1 hrs Ave Speed 5.1km/hr

Friday, 15 February 2019

Whangapoua to Pauanui

Distance 54.6km Time 9.8hrs Speed 5.6km/hr

Arrived late at Whangapoua Holiday Park, which is just a few minutes down the road from our launch tomorrow. Was after 2200 before bunking down to a fitful sleep.
After an early (0530) cooked breakfast for a possible longer day; down to the beach about sunrise and dragged Secala through a lot of spongy decomposing seaweed to find hard sand. Launched through low surf and off by 0700 having said to Shaz that I would see her at Hahei Beach for lunch. Another day on her quest to find the best coffee shop in the country 🙂

Rising sun in my face and the tide ebbing behind me for the first two hours until rounding into Opito Bay.

Kaurewa Point just before rounding into Opito Bay
Boulder Beach linking Tokarahu Point to the mainland. Opito Bay behind Boulder Beach.
Rounding Tokarahu Point into Opito Bay
Opito Bay

Got a VHF call from Shaz as I crossed Opito Bay which was a nice surprise. Good paddling conditions across Opito Bay and into the “Hole in the Wall” passage that I know well from my past.

Rounding Rabbit Island at the southern end of Opito Bay
The gap between Rabbit Island and Opito Point
Turning the corner into Mercury Bay. Hahei (and lunch) in the background.

Conditions are still favourable until entering Mercury bay for the two hour crossing to Hahei. The tide has turned and a light SW’ly is also slowing me down a little.

Hahei Beach. Shaz is ahead directing me in.

Shaz directed me into the beach beside a bunch of kayaks that were being prepared for tour groups to Cathedral Cove. After a relaxing lunch on the beach I was in no hurry to get on the water again. Checking the forecast, tomorrows weather was not promising and during lunch the wind had backed around to the East stiffening to 10kts. This made the decision easy to use these conditions for easier paddling, and push on to Tairua. Launched easily avoiding dumping surf then realised my front hatch lid wasn’t secured properly. Landed again to secure it.

Departing Hahei for Wigmore Pass at the south end of Hahei beach
Rounding Waipapa Island with Tokaroa Point (Tairua Harbour) in the background
Tairua beach to right of Paku headland. Pauanui and Tairua Harbour on the other side.
Tokaroa Point (end of Paku Headland)

Enjoyable coastline paddling all day and although feeling lethargic (tired bugger!) at lunch time, am feeling strong now after 9 hours . Shaz called to say she had booked at Pauanui instead of Tairua which was only an extra 30 minutes or so further to paddle.
Rounded Tokaroa Point and was taken by surprise at the break over the bar at Tairua Harbour entrance. There were no boats coming or going to give me pointers so sat at the edge of the bar and watched the sets for some time. Spotting a gap I managed to sprint through to the harbour entrance where Shaz was directing me where to land. After anxious moments, a flat landing and good yards made today.

Once on the beach, with tomorrow in mind, I took note of the path a couple of boats took through the bar.


Shaz ……. Up early and drove Brent to Whangapoua beach so he can start his next leg of his kayak adventure. We stayed at Whangapoua Beach holiday park in a cabin, very nice! Upon arrival I noticed that there was a whole lot of something all over the place, some sort of sea weed I think! You could see where the tide came up as it was even on the grass in car park.

Decomposting weed
Smelly seaweed, that looks like carpet!

We had to walk through it, I nearly slipped and it was smelly! It was all around the high tide mark, looking at it it was old carpet! Getting closer to the water the smell was awful, smelled like sewage and the sand was really soft I stuck one foot in completely covering my sandals! OMG the smell, shit did it smell literally!! Brent was on the water by 7am, heading for Hahei.

Back at Whangapoua I packed up and set of for Hahei, where I was going to meet Brent for lunch. On the way I decided to take a drive to Opito Bay for a look. Stoppped for coffee at ‘Trading Post’ cafe in Kuaotunu Bay. Busy place, not many places to sit, this lady asked me to join her as she was on her own also! We got talking, she was impressed with what Brent was doing. Her husband wanted her to circumnavigate NZ on a bike, but she isn’t interested. We were around the same age and our husbands are both 60. As a family they had just returned to NZ on Wednesday from doing some Missionary work in Guatemala, building houses for the needy. They took their 2 kids with them, aged 14 & 15 they started late in life! Son was over it very quickly but daughter love it. She was from Auckland but here staying with friend in Kuaotunu Bay and was on her way to Tairua to stay with her mother.  Drove over to Opito bay for a look and to see if I could see Brent at all. 

Opito Bay – Rabbit Island in foreground. Hole in the Wall passage between Rabbit Is and Old Man Rock on the left.
Opito Bay looking north

Beautiful and yes I did and made contact with him. From here I headed for Hahei to meet him for lunch. What a lovely place, beautiful beach lots of tourist in campervans. Bloody hot today, I hear that it’s raining in New Plymouth they could really do with some rain up here. 

Hahei Beach

Brent arrived around 1.15pm, we had a picnic lunch on the beach under a tree in the shade. Watching all the tourists gearing up to go kayaking to Cathedrel Cove with their prospective tour guides. 

Landing on Hahei Beach

Brent is nakered, deciding whether to continue or not! He looked up the weather report to check the weather for tomorrow. Not so good tomorrow, so made the call to continue on today! 

Preparing to leave Hahei for Tairua

Brent launched again around 2.05pm for Tairua, only to come back ashore again a minute later as he forgot to close one of the hatches on kayak. Finally got away at 2.15pm, he will call me later on about where he wants to come in.

I headed off for Tairua, arriving there I brought a takeaway coffee and looked around the town and the art gallery. Some great art, but prices were out of my league! I sat under the trees in the park next to the beach, and decided where we were going to stay for the night. Holiday park in Tairua is not good, so made the call to stay in Pauanui at camp there. I made contact with Brent and told him to go straight to Pauanui rather than Tairua. Booked into camp in Pauanui, really nice cabin same price as last night but bigger! Brent arrived at Pauanui beach at 6pm.


Saturday, 16 February 2019

Pauanui to Onemana

Distance 17.5km Time 4.3hrs. Average Speed 4.1km/hr

Wasn’t in a hurry this morning but still got up at 0530. Really hot night but still a better sleep than the last couple of nights.
Cooked breakfast dispatched and down to the Pauanui boat ramp. Flat launch at the boat ramp into Tairua harbour at 0800 with ebb flow out through the entrance. With a bar to negotiate everything was battened down. The tide was 4 hours into the ebb which was a little more advanced than my arrival time last night. Glad to have watched a couple of boats negotiate the bar last night that gave me some glues on the best channel to take. Without the speed of a boat I was still going to rely on timing and luck as breakers over the bar were big. Heart in mouth moments as I lipped over a couple of large waves before they broke. Happy to get out the back in one piece. Headed south in easy conditions until I passed Storm Beach when a southerly kicked in with some venom making it a grind. Was happy to grind it out knowing that I had a couple of handy exit points at Opoutere and Omemana within a few kilometers.
Headwinds were steady 15kts gusting higher. Eased my aerobic workout by hugging Opoutere beach trying to avoid the worst of the chop. What a great beach spot this is. Will return.

Stopped to ring Shaz to say I would pull in to Onemana for lunch and reassess the day. The conditions made it difficult to stop for more than a few seconds . In one extended stoppage I opened the day bag to get a banana and gel pack, consume the gel pack and take a pee and lost 100m of ground. Needed to take care not to loosen my grip on the paddle in the air.

Eventually turned into the beautiful Onemana Bay. Always surprised at how different these places are from what you imagine.

Contacted Shaz on VHF to get a surf report. There was clearly sandbank, in the middle of the bay, shoaling a fair way out. Shaz said the best spot was at the south end of the beach where the surfers were and that she had her video ready as I was going to get smoked this time for sure ……..!

Approached cautiously letting a couple lip under me before sprinting for the shore and being chased by the tumbling surf. Braced and washed ashore in one piece. I think Shaz was impressed, but I sense some disappointment that I didn’t offer up some carnage for her amusement.

During lunch the white caps off shore had intensified (earlier than expected) so decided to call it quits for this trip. The forecast for tomorrow was worse.

South end of Onemana Beach
Onemana Beach looking north

Shaz ………. When I got up this morning, I saw Brent sitting in the chair with his back to me looking like Nana wrapped up in a blanket typing on his iPad. Couldn’t resist taking a photo!

Later start today Brent waiting on weather conditions! He has decided to go for it, not to sure how far he’ll get as the wind is likely to pick up! It’s another beautiful day up here, they could really do with some of that rain they had in the ‘Naki’ yesterday. 

Pauanui Boat Ramp launch
Heading out of Pauanui behind fishing boat

Brent launched from the Pauanui Boat Ramp at 8am, heading for Whangamata where I’ll meet him for lunch. On my way back to Pauanui Glade Holiday Park I went to Twin Palms Cafe for my morning coffee, great coffee by the way! Shower, pack up and head towards Whangamata around 9.50am. Road seems a little quieter today, even know that it’s Saturday. 

Driving along I decided to turn off and go down to Onemana only 3km and check it out! As I was driving down the road Brent rang. He is coming into Onemana as the wind was making his progress too difficult. Weird, I know as I was just pulling into Onemana! Plenty of parks near beach.

Onemana Beach

Access for Brent getting Secala up isn’t going to be much fun! Lots of soft sand! Had a walk along the beach, if it was’t so windy it would be a perfect day! As luck would have it, there is a cafe just across from the car park! Very nice, beautiful music (almost Italian sounding, except they are Indians running it), coffee was so hot that I burnt my tongue! Let it cool down, didn’t taste so good scolded milk taste yuck! I’m sure they had heated it in the microwave as it took a long time to get it! I complained and asked for another one, which they did!

Sat in the Ute and started reading our information pack from NZMCA, which we have joined since we are getting a camper. Saw Brent in the distance through the binoculars, and followed him until he got closer. Then I called him on the VHF, and told him the best place to come in and wished him all the best! The waves were dumping onto the beach, some real big breakers. Told him to go to the south end of the beach where the surfers were! I managed to video the whole ride in! He managed it really well, and landed on the beach at 12.20pm. 

We had some lunch and Brent needed to decide whether he was going to continue or not!! Checking out the weather report and seeing the white caps on the waves way out he decided not to continue. Now he needed to get Secala up from the beach to the car park, soft sand and up hill!

What to do now, stay or go home! Go home wins, and our own bed!

8. Go Firth Old Man – Pohutakawa Bay to Whangapoua

24 – 26 January, 2019

A quick long weekend opportunity now that we are within a few hours travel of our launch at Pohutakawa Bay. Weather forecasts and tides were favourable however a few calls would have to be made on the water and contingency for solo camping required.

THIS TRIP: Pohutakawa Bay to Whangapoua – 3 paddle days

Overall Distance 126.3 km Time 21.43 hrs Average Speed 5.9 km/hr


Thursday, 24 January, 2019

Pohutakawa Bay to Papa Aroha

Distance 45.9 km Time 6.8 hr Average speed 6.7 km/hr

On the road early this morning for the 4-5 hour road trip back to Beachlands to get as much time on the water as possible and take advantage of the afternoon tidal ebb flow east through the Tamaki Strait.

Loading up Secala prior to launch at Pohutakawa Bay
Tail wind …….

The intended destination today is Anita Bay on Waiheke for a solo camp prior to crossing the Firth of Thames tomorrow. However the forecast was for Easterlies tomorrow so said to Shaz that I would make the final decision when I reached the open waters of the Firth and assess a possible crossing to Papa Aroha today.

Secala is fully loaded with gear, food and water for two days if necessary. As I entered the Tamaki Strait the tide assist and following SW wind made the going easy.

The beaches of Chamberlins Island looked very inviting

With the SW’lies gusting 15kts I was a tad apprehensive about what the open waters of the Firth would offer up when I got there.

Heading for Ruthe Passage and into the Firth of Thames

Once beyond the wind funnelling effect of the Strait, the SW winds steadied and the 24km crossing to Papa Aroha looked like a good option . Rang Shaz to say I would gap it and meet her over there in 4 hours. Unfamiliar with any geographical landmarks I relied on my compass heading until I was close enough to identify the higher Motuoruhi Island off Papa Aroha.

Made good time across the Firth arriving a little ahead of schedule with Shaz only just arriving at Papa Aroha and rushing down the beach with the kayak wheels.

Approaching Papa Aroha
Shaz by the boat ramp

Glad to get across the Firth today as the forecast Easterlies tomorrow may well have stalled my progress from Waiheke for another day.


Shaz ………… Left New Plymouth at 5.45am for Beachlands, Auckland. Brent launched off Beachlands at 11.45am. 

Launching from Beachlands at high tide

He plans on going all the way to Coromandel provided everything goes well. If not he will stop somewhere on Waiheke Island. I head for Maraetai Bay and try to make contact with him, I can see him but he’s not answering on VHF. Decided to move onto another bay Magazine Bay (I’m not making this name up either) and stayed here for about an hour reading my book. Lovely spot! Then I drove along to Umupunia Beach and tried once again to make contact with Brent but no luck. 

My intention was to go via Clevedon to Kawakawa Bay, but the road was closed due to slips, so had to go inland. Driving along I saw a sign that said ‘Hunua Falls, thought I’d go and have a look. Brent rang as I was pulling up! He said that everything was going well and he intended to go on the Papa Aroha (we have booked in there for Friday and Saturday night but not tonight). 

Hunua Falls just a short walk from the car park, never heard of these falls before. 

Hunua Falls

From here I headed for Thames, were I stopped and brought a pillow as we have left ours at home and went to Pak’N Save for some supplies. 

Then back into the ute and headed for Papa Aroha, arriving at 6.20pm. Booking in a day early, thankfully they have a cabin for the night. Just opened the cabin and Brent rang me to see where I was, he arrived at the same time. Raced down to the beach in time to see him come in and take a few photos. 

Approaching Papa Aroha

Settled in for the night, getting up early tomorrow to set up tent before Brent leaves.


Friday, 25 January, 2019

Papa Aroha to Port Charles

Distance 47.2 km Time 8.0 hr Average speed 5.9 km/hr

Not in a rush today as we had a tent to set up before hitting the water. Then we discovered the small matter of a mis-matched tent and fly being packed for the trip. After some ringing around we finally found a motel room for tonight in Coromandel town.

Slid down the pebble beach to a glassy sea

Another day with Secala laden, destined if possible for Port Charles, but a likely solo overnighter at Jackson Bay or Fletchers Bay as fresh Easterlies are still forecast which will come into play as I round Kaiiti Point at the top of the Coromandel peninsula. This would have the dual effect of slowing progress and making conditions very unpleasant as they opposed the east bound ebb tidal race around the top.

The paddle actually started with light tail winds and after 3 hours the ebb tide kicked in on cue to take us round the top. Hugged the beautiful coastline from Fantail Bay, close enough in places to easily chat with people ashore.

Approaching Kaiiti Point at the western edge of Jackson Bay, the tidal stream became very obvious and was now on high alert on this unfamiliar coast. Rounding this point felt like a rollercoaster, while dodging the eddies and the submerged rocks were my primary focus. No sign of the forecast winds yet as I crossed Jackson Bay towards Cape Colville.

Jackson Bay looking towards Cape Colville
Cape Colville

As I rounded the Cape with the tide, a gentle 10kt Easterly slowed me down but not enough to affect my plan to paddle on to Port Charles about an hour and a half paddle away. Rang Shaz and suggested that I still camp out alone at Port Charles so that she didn’t have to drive for over 2 hours return to pick me up and another 2 hours in the morning to drop me off.

Looking down to Port Charles

Approaching Port Charles I lined up and had a close look at a bay at the head of the peninsula.

Possible camp location?
Not good enough ……

The beach was very rocky with no convenient flat areas to camp. With plenty of other landing options around, I had a look across the bay.

Landed at this rocky beach at low tide directly across the bay from the first beach I looked at

Great camp spot and plenty of flat grassy areas above the high tide mark

Just above this rocky beach was an enticing grassy flat area. Perfect!

Bedroom and kitchen sorted!

Shaz ………….. Up at 6.30am, had a cup of tea and breakfast! Shop opens at 7am, so Brent went over to see if it was ok to set up our tent before he launches for the Day. He hopes to head for Port Charles today.

Brent came back from the camp shop and said that we had a different tent site to set up on. Got the tent and headed over to set up, better site view of the sea!

Put up tent, NOT! Brent brought the large tent and the fly for the smaller tent!! This is not going to work sorry, he headed back to the shop to see if there was anything else available for tonight, however nothing. 

We rang around and found a motel in Coromandel town for the tonight. We packed up the ute and then Brent launched from Papa Aroha heading for Port Charles. 

Heading north to top of Coromandel

I headed for Coromandel, checking out some of the bays along the way. I can’t book into the Tidewater motel until 1pm. So I looked around the shops, had coffee at the Wharf Cafe, went to the supermarket, checked out the Art Expo being held in town and read my book near the beach past the Coromandel wharf.

Checked out the information centre for advice regarding the roads to Port Charles to pick Brent up later on. 

Brent rang at 3.20pm, he is most likely going to stay solo overnight in Port Charles, so no need for me to go over. He will ring me in the morning and tell me his plans for the day. 

Lots of campers coming in for the night, not sure what’s on here in the Coromandel this weekend, accommodation is none existent. Trying to find accommodation for tomorrow night, just not happening! It’s Auckland anniversary weekend but I think there is more to it than that.

Brent rang at 5.50pm, from his campsite for the night. Sitting here in luxury watching All Blacks vs Black caps cricket. 


Saturday, 26 January, 2019

Port Charles to Whangapoua

Distance 33.2 km Time 6.6 hr Average speed 5.1 km/hr

Great camp last night but not such a good sleep with the rising tide and low swell dumping on the steep boulder beach through the night. It was really rowdy.
Checked the time at 0430 so figured I may as well get on the water for the sunrise.

View east just after launch

On the waters of Port Charles by 0600 with dawn approaching. Had suggested to Shaz that I would head for Opito Bay today.

Glad it was low water for launch as it would have been interesting at HW with a dumping surf on boulders. Got around the point to meet the sunrise.

The flooding tide is generally against me today. Early morning calm conditions remained until Te Anaputa Point when an offshore SW kicked in too strong for me to risk the 4 hour open water crossing to Opito Bay. Decided to hug the coast and phoned Shaz to say I would meet her at Kennedy Bay.

Feeling a bit tired I pulled into a beach to call Shaz and say I would be a little late getting to Kennedy Bay.

Opito Bay (top right) and Great Mercury Island (top center)

Turns out that Shaz had missed the Kennedy Bay turn off and ended up just around the corner from me at Tuateawa, only 15 minutes paddle away.
Slid back down the steep stoney beach and found Shaz at a really nice spot for welcome lunch and coffee.

Coming into Tuateawa with Shaz guidance
Coming in hot to the creek by the beach
That was fun!

After a lazy lunch and feeling lethargic I said to Shaz that I would only go as far as Whangapoua today. We unloaded Secala of all the camping gear and I slid down a stoney beach for the 2nd time today.

Motukopu Island (Whangapoua in the distance)
Approaching Pungapunga Island just off Whangapoua beach

Made better speed in the light kayak. Caught a wave into the beach and broached right (my bad side!) and canned out to Shaz’s joy.

We couldn’t find any accomodation or even a tent site available closer than Waihi for the night. This was 2 hours drive away. This basically made the prospect of returning to put a fews more hours on the water tomorrow unrealistic. Unfortunately a premature end to this short trip but still happy with progress made.


Shaz ……….. Managed to have a little sleep in this morning 7am! Looked at my phone and see that Brent had an early start on the water today at 6.02am. After a shower I went for walk into Coromandel town for breakfast and coffee before heading back to pack up. Brent rang at 8.06am and said that he was heading for Kennedy Bay. 

Going to meet him there and have lunch together. I put some lunch together and filled the thermos. I headed for Kennedy Bay, people at cafe said that it was just of 30 minute drive. Once I got to Kennedy Bay, the only road access that I could see was a private road only. I continued on thinking that the road went around to the other side of inlet, but then it turned inland. Never mind I continued on towards Tuateawa and turn off onto road towards a stony river, by Tuateawa Point. 

Brent called on the cellphone to say that he had landed on a beach for a rest. Talking to him I explained were I was, turns out that I’m not that far from where he is! He launched again and joined me for lunch!

Coming through the rocks

While at lunch he said that he was tired and didn’t sleep well last night. He decided to go to Whangapoua, instead of going to Opito as he planned. 

By the time I got to Whangapoua, Brent was already there! Couldn’t believe it, but when I think about it I had to drive back over the hill to Coromandel then turn off to Whitianga back over another hill to get there. No other road for me to use! Never mind, he waited until I was on the beach to come in. Just started to video him coming, when he was dumped on the beach Oops!! 

I still haven’t managed to find anywhere to stay tonight. We might have to freedom camp in his little tent again on the beach somewhere. Brent decided not to go kayaking tomorrow, so while I drove he rang around looking to somewhere to stay the night. Annoying everything is booked out, ended up staying in Waihi.