11. Destination “Stanton Hotel” – Papamoa to Torere

8 – 10 March, 2019

Getting to Uncle Vic and Aunty Jan’s place at Thornton has been a key motivating factor for us this entire summer campaign. At the end of the first trip of this summer, back in October (end of trip #5 at Taupotupotu), we had made a non-stop road trip from Taupotupotu to Thornton to check on Vic who wasn’t ‘shipshape’ at the time. Every day on the water since then has had Vic driving “shark bait” (me) along.

This is Taranaki Anniversary weekend offering a 3 and a half day paddle opportunity. Once again the weather forecast wasn’t flash, however on this part of the Bay coastline there was plenty of opportunity to get in short paddle stints as the weather dictated.

THIS TRIP: Papamoa to Torere – 3 paddle days

Overall Distance 122.8km Time 20.85hrs Average Speed 5.9km/hr


Friday, 8 March 2019

Papamoa to Thornton

Distance 62km Time 8.55hrs Speed 7.25km/hr

Stayed at Papamoa overnight Thursday in the hope of an early start. A weather front was due to pass over the Bay today so staying close to the beach and keeping a ‘weather eye’ would be key.

Launched from Papamoa

Launched at sunrise into an easy surf with the outer breaks concealed by the high tide. Didn’t get a splash on me as I timed the shore break to perfection; for a change. After the usual VHF check-in and farewell to Shaz, set off in glassy conditions on a gloomy morning. Okurei Point at Maketu is the next prominent landmark just two hours paddle away. Soon a light northerly came away just behind my port beam to provide a little assist .

Okurei Point off Maketu
Rounding Okurei Point

From the north, rain showers made way to heavier squalls that were quite intense making the shore barely discernible at times, though it was only a few hundred meters away. Although the light northerly remained, the onshore swell had picked up a notch.

This was a trickle compared with what was to come
Swell picking up

Made contact with Shaz at our scheduled check-in at Pukehina Beach and agreed to a lunchtime rendezvous at Pikowai, a couple of hours further down the beach. Conditions remained similar as I cruised close in to Pukehina Beach before a smooth enough landing at the roadside camp ground at Pikowai. Its such a luxury having lunch with Shaz on the beach and the chance for a stretch. Going to enjoy this while it lasts.

When it came time to launch the tide had ebbed further and the swell increased a tad giving the shore break bit of grunt. Got trashed twice on the beach before breaking out.
Thornton was now only 3 hours paddle away and despite the rain, the paddle conditions were good enough and we were excited to be reaching Jan and Vic’s today.

Soon after launch the wind and swell intensified and was now onshore NE (beam on) making paddling more challenging with white caps breaking over the swell, having to brace often against these as they broke over Secala. Maintained a close 400m proximity to the beach now while applying plenty of off shore leeway just to stay out of the surf zone. Comforting to have a lee shore. Could see the front approaching from the NE with wind gusts now streaking the white caps. This wind was short lived as, when the front hit with torrential rain, the wind died away completely. The sea surface was surreal with shore visibility reduced to an outline. Once the front passed the wind returned having backed around a good 60 degrees to NNW and the weather cleared. The following 10kt wind making paddling a lot more comfortable and progress was hastened.
Got to Thornton River and Shaz said the bar was OK to paddle through even though it was now low tide. Didn’t want to make a hash of this landing that would have an audience.

We have been looking forward to this arrival for a long time. Came in cleanly over the bar before snagging a fisherman’s line in my rear flag as I came in on the eastern side of the river mouth.
Short paddle up river to the boat ramp and a great reception from Vic, Jan and Gaynor. The first planned reception of the whole trip. A good sense of achievement for sure. ‘Stanton Hotel’ is just down the road with home cooking and hospitality.

Jan, Gaynor and Shaz at the Thornton boat ramp
Vic waving from the car.

Shaz ……………..Stayed night at Papamoa Beach Resort, in one of their cabins. Up early so Brent could get off to a good start as weather forecast isn’t that good! Today’s the day, we are going to finally make it to Thornton! We have been so looking forward to coming in there and seeing Vic on the beach meeting Brent! Twelve months ago we wouldn’t have thought this day would come. 

Papamoa Beach

He launched at 7.05am from Papamoa Beach in a cloudy overcast day. I headed back to our cabin, showered and packed up then headed for Pukehina. Got my morning coffee from Blackberry Eatery in Papamoa, good coffee and the best muffin ever (curry, cumin and vege), yummy! Drove down Pukehina Beach Road, to the waterfront to make contact with Brent. 

Off coast – Pukehina Beach

Weather looks like its getting worse, but not too bad yet! Brent said that he was going to come ashore at Pikowai for lunch. I drove onto Pikowai, nice spot! I stopped at Pikowai Campground, several motorhomes parked up. Thank goodness flushing toilets also! Access to the beach all good, its going to be a while before Brent arrives, so settled in and read my book. Around 11.30am I put on my rain jacket as the weather conditions have worsen, the wind is up and the rain is coming! I walked down to the beach to make contact with Brent. He is making steady progress, heading back to the Ute it started to rain, then the hail started and I got caught in it, bloody hell the things I do! Standing under a tree to keep out of hail! I saw Brent and he is getting near now, back down to the beach to guide him in! It absolutely poured down with rain, really! Oh well what can you do, Brent came ashore at 12.52pm lunch. 

Pikowai beach landing

Leaving Pikowai wasn’t easy, it took 3 attempts, it was much rougher than when he landed! Had to pump water out of the kayak twice, I even had a go at it. Launched on the 3rd attempt at 1.20pm.

Driving along the road I pulled into Kohiawa beach at 13.37 and saw Brent going by, then onto Murphy’s camp ground further along the beach, then again at Matata I made contact with Brent on VHF at 2.50pm. He said that it would take about 1.5 hours Thornton beach.

Looking east to Whale Island from Matata

I decided to drive onto Jan and Vic’s at Thornton, after having a cup of tea we all headed to Thornton beach. I saw Brent in the distance and before long he was approaching the beach, he wanted to come into the river mouth. He landed around 4.30pm, it was so nice that he had a welcoming committee for the first time! 

Gaynor and Jan welcoming Brent in
Vic waiting by car, also welcoming Brent in
Vic & Brent, a special day!

Saturday, 9 March 2019

Thornton to Ohope

Distance 25km Time 6.0hrs Speed 4.2km/hr

Checked out of ‘Stanton Hotel’ and a couple of kilometers to the Thornton River boat ramp. On the water a little later than usual. Jan joining us at the ramp to see me off, full of questions about the kayak and its setup.

Boat ramp launches are quite a luxury however not knowing what the river bar looked like at high tide, everything was securely packed down. Once out of the ramp the river current swept me swiftly out through the river mouth and cleanly over bar.

View back toThornton Beach having cleared the bar
Kohi Point outside Whakatane Harbour
Looking into Whakatane Harbour

Whisper of an offshore southerly to start with quickly turned into a SE headwind that varied in the 10-15kt range. A nice little morning workout, I figured, as the forecast was for the wind to turn to an onshore NE in the afternoon. After 4 hours of the workout, for only a 16km gain, I was ready to join Shaz for lunch at Ohope Beach. On the way in through the easy surf and fully under control, I tried to be a bit clever with the technique and promptly (and embarrassingly) canned out. Lesson learned!

Out of Ohope and into the same headwind. By 1530 I had reached the last access point down the east end of Ohope beach. With the next access point at Opotiki couple of hours normal paddle away (3 hours at my current rate) and no sign of the wind shifting or abating I decided to call it quits after just 6 hours and only 25km gained. On the bright side, ‘Stanton Hotel’, is just down the road


Shaz……… Late start today, hopefully the weather will be better today! So nice staying with family for a change! Left Jan and Vic’s for the beach around 7.50am, Brent got sorted and had a new support crew member today Jan! She helped Brent carry his kayak for the boat ramp, strong!!! Not bad for someone 70+!

Jan helping Brent carry kayak to the boat ramp
Jan & Brent

Brent launched from the boat ramp on the river at 8.22am and then paddled out the river mouth around 8.40am.

Heading down the river

Too quick for me to drive from the boat ramp to the car park looking out over the river mouth to record him going out! Oh well you can’t catch them all! Returned to Jan and Vic’s, had a late breakfast and cup of tea and chat before packing up and heading for Ohope beach. First stop Blueberry Corner for coffee and a Blueberry muffin each for us! Stopped in at Coastlands beach for check on Brent around 10.50am, called on the VHF but no reply. I could see him quite clearly however. Going over to Ohope I stopped at Ohope lookout to see if I could see him but nowhere in sight.

Looking down on Ohope

Looked around the shops in Ohope before going down by the Surf Lifesaving club and Brent made contact at 12.05pm and said that he was going to the far end of Ohope for lunch. I decided to go for a drive down the west end of Ohope to have a look. At 12.29pm Brent called saying that he was going to come in now where I was, thank goodness I hadn’t left to go down the far end of beach! He was paddling into a head wind, so came in early for lunch break at 12.34pm.

West End beach at Ohope

After lunch he launched at 1.20pm and would contact me where he was heading, just depends on the conditions. I contacted Brent at 2.35pm to see how he was going, he said that it was ok at the moment. He asked me to contact him when he got closer to the south end of Ohope beach to see how he was feeling. Brent contacted me at 3.15pm to say that he was coming in as he was battling into a head wind. Landing on the beach at 3.25pm. 

Jan has been in regular contact today, and said that we were welcome to stay the night there if we wanted. We decided we would take up her offer and go back there for the night, its only a 20 minute drive.


Sunday, 10 March 2019

Ohope to Torere

Distance 35.8km Time 6.3hrs Speed 5.7km/hr

Another farewell from ‘Stanton Hotel’ with Vic waving from his bedroom window and wishing “shark bait” a safe voyage.
Launched into a calm sea however the forecast was for more easterly headwinds.

Ohope Beach launch

Shaz check in at Waiotahe. Conditions good so to Opotiki for lunch.

Headwinds were now slowing me down. Came in to easy surf at Opotiki with an audience that Shaz had found. They were very interested in what we were doing.

Coming in at Opotiki
Hikuwai Beach at Opotiki. Locals on horses riding down the beach.

Headwinds seem to have set in now. Not sure how long I would last so I suggested to Shaz to check in at Opape.

Once out on the water, the headwinds changed to a stiffening offshore breeze ahead of a front approaching over the ranges. Strong offshore gusts knocked me off balance a couple of times and was more concerning than the strong onshore winds of yesterday. Held a 100m off shore for security. Fortunately I just got the edge of the front as it passed through just before landing at Opape.

Opape Beach
Opape Beach looking west to Opotiki
Opape beach looking east

After seeing the front pass by l decided to push through to Torere while conditions were OK and trying to get the most out of a late start. Easy surf at Opape. Beautiful rock hopping around the points to Torere.

The coastal lowlands and long white beaches of the western BOP now gives way to a more rugged and menacing landscape where stony bays are punctuated by a succession of narly looking Points as far as you could see towards Cape Runaway. And then the adventure really returns with the reputation of East Cape (and beyond) looming; anticipation returning for the first time since North Cape.

On my way to Torere, looking back at Opape
Weaving through the rocks between Opape and Haurere Point
Haurere Point (Torere in the background)
Torere at the end of the bay

Approaching the beach at Torere where Shaz is waiting to guide me in. The first stony beach since east Coromandel north of Whangapoua.
There was no surf but could see that the beach was steep so expected a small shore dump. Worked up some pace on the back of a wave so that I could get as far up the beach as possible, hopefully providing a second or two extra for a quick exit. Good practice anyway. Easy enough landing but wondering what a high tide could offer up.

Shaz guiding me in ahead
Stony Torere Beach at low tide

Shaza…… Had breakfast and packed up from Jan and Vic’s place then head for Ohope beach.

Launching from Ohope beach at the far end, off Phillips Street beach access, dragging the kayak down to the beach.

Brent was on the water by 8.52am. He wants to make up for yesterday and try to make it to Omaio beach. 

Drive to Opotiki , stopped at Ohiwa beach and called Brent on the VHF. He said that he was making good progress, I drove on arriving at Waiotahe beach at 10.20am what a beautiful stop and waited for him to go past to make contact once again.

Waiotahe beach

He was still making progress, wind starting to get a little stronger. Brent suggested we meet for lunch at Opotiki along the beach somewhere.

Drove past Opotiki for about 5 minutes, no access to Opotiki due to sand dunes.  Found a rest area which was also an overnight camping area for motorhomes/self contained vehicles. Meet some lovely people that had pulled up for a cuppa! OMG so looking forward to getting our campervan!

Crowd waiting (well one or two people)

Lovely people really interested in what Brent was doing. They stayed around and talked to him which was really nice for him! He landed on the beach at 1pm. 


The headwind was getting stronger, so Brent wasn’t to sure how much further he would go but to check in with him near Opape. Off I went heading for Opape, missed the turn off and went on over the hill to Torere. No cellphone reception here, so headed back down the road and saw Opape Camp ground sign so turned down there. Contacted Brent and he said that he was coming in, as a front was coming through.

Opape beach

After a short time the front passed through and he decided to continue on to a least Torere! At least it knocks off another hour of his journey. Torere is a very stony/pebbly beach, a little steep but should be ok Brent can handle it NO problem!

Torere beach

Landed on Torere beach at 4.55pm, he pulled the kayak up the stony beach to the Ute. Loaded up and headed to Opotiki for the night. May go for a short paddle tomorrow before heading home.


10. Bay Of Plenty – Onemana to Papamoa

22 – 23 February, 2019

This was an unlikely long weekend trip weatherwise, however being there meant that I could take opportunities on the water as they presented themselves. Left home on Thursday afternoon and booked into Whangamata campground on the way. The punt proved fruitful, making yards on two consecutive days.

THIS TRIP: Onemana to Papamoa – 2 paddle days

Overall Distance 86.2 km Time 12.36 hrs Average Speed 7.0 km/hr

Distance 86.2km , Time 12.36hrs , Average Speed 7.0km/hr

Friday 22 February 2019

Onemana to Bowentown

Distance 40.6km , Time 5.96hrs , Average Speed 6.8km/hr

Shorter drive to Coromandel last night arriving at Whangamata campground at 1930.
Up at 0530 to cook breakfast but no big rush as the campground gates aren’t opened until 0700. It’s been raining overnight with forecast suggesting a light northerly rising later.
Just a 10 minute drive to Onemana and curious (as always) to see what the surf would look like, now close to full tide this time. Good to see the surf break was gone leaving a large shore dump about 20 meters off the steep beach. Would be an easy launch if I got my timing right. Well, this time it wasn’t! Managed to plow straight into a dumper as it broke over the bow. I got picked up and shunted straight back up the beach. Somehow stayed upright and quickly realised that my paddle float had been forced out and overboard from under the 3 deck bungies and the deck bag tie-downs. Out of reach, I managed to get it back onboard using the paddle and frantically continue my exit attempt before the next dumper. With no time to secure the paddle float (now jammed under the deck bag) I slammed into the next dumper and lost it overboard again while, again, being thrown back up the beach. Third time lucky …….. retrieved the paddle float with the paddle again and continued on the next, and successful, attempt to get off the beach. If I had just been patient and got my timing right in the first place ………………..!

A nice wet (drenched) start to the day. Once clear, had a giggle with Shaz on the VHF. Would have been a crack-up to see on video.

Set off on calm sea with rain all around but mostly over the land. Had the compass on standby but the visibility on the water remained good all day. Scheduled a VHF check with Shaz for one hour at Whangamata. A light northerly gathered and the sea got a little lumpy.

Whangamata VHF check-in
Whangamata (south end)

Another VHF check-in at Whiritoa an hour and a half later. The sea is a little uncomfortable now but advised Shaz that I would be fine for the next 2 hour paddle to Waihi Beach; and lunch.

Decided to go on to Ocean Beach, Bowentown about 8km south down the beach from Waihi and call it an early finish for the day. The sea had got unpleasantly lumpy now and I didn’t fancy pushing on to the next accessible point of Mt Maunganui, 4 hours further paddle past Matakana Island.

The Ocean Beach sandbanks, courtesy of the Katikati entrance to Tauranga Harbour, had to be negotiated with care. It was now the tail end of the ebbing tide opposing the northerly chop just to make it interesting. Managed to weave my way through to land in one piece right in front of Shaz.


Shaz ………… We arrived at Whangamata holiday Park around 7.40pm last night, we had booked into a kitchen cabin. It was awful! It smelt old and musty. Oh well it is what it is I guess!! Not a good nights sleep, sore back old lumpy mattress, the bed creaks every time you move, No running hot water in kitchen sink (there was a hot tap, just no hot water). Not good value for money at all, $100 for cabin per night plus $1 for a shower! Not getting a good review from me!

Up early, but gates don’t open until 7am. We head for Onemana beach 9.3km 10 minute drive, not to far.

Launching from Onemana Beach

Brent set off in dumpy conditions this morning. A dumping wave washed him back up the beach and his paddle float out from the bungies under the deck bag. Managed to retrieve it quickly with his paddle before it all happened again with the next wave. By the time I got my phone out of my dry bag, I had missed all the action. It would have been good footage too!

Back at camp I showered and packed up, then had to do dishes, sweep up, take our rubbish with us or they would charge a cleaning fee to your credit card! BULLSHIT, for that money what did we get ‘a bad taste in your mouth’! 

It is raining now, Brent went past Whangamata beach around 8.30am I made contact him ……. he wasn’t worried about the rain. He said that it was quite calm out there.

Whangamata Beach

I drove onto Whiritoa beach and saw him go past there at 10am.

Whiritoa Beach

Has been raining even harder stopped now though but still not bothering him our there. He said that the wind had got up a little bit, but not a problem! He said he will see me in Waihi Beach for lunch in about 2.5hrs. 

Got a coffee at ‘Daisy Chain Cafe really good coffee too! The lady that owns the cafe had this awesome picture on the wall she got in Paris 15 years ago. It was a drawing of a Rhinoceros’s head, with the ‘Louvre’ for the lump on his nose and the ‘Eiffel Tower’ for his horn. The artist was a conservationist and was drawing animals that are endangered and wanted people to take notice and protect these animals. It was so good, she watched him sketch it and asked if he was going to sell it! He was, so she waited until he finished it and carried it around for the rest of her OE.

Our trusty Ute parked at Waihi beach

Brent arrived at Waihi Beach about 12.30pm, had lunch ready for him.

Looking down over Bowentown & Waihi beach’s

After lunch he set off for Ocean Beach at Bowentown about an hour down Waihi Beach. Conditions have got a little worse now, it was an interesting launch, not to worry I got it all on video! WRONG, hadn’t push record had I! Silly woman that’s twice today I’ve missed some good footage.

Staying tonight at Bowentown Beach Holiday Park, in kitchen cabin $95 per night! Flash, no smells, clean, good bed, bunk beds, very nice kitchen, fridge freezer, table and chairs and TV! Woohoo!! Raining again, but they really need it up here!

Ocean Beach at Bowentown

Lady from the camp was walking past and saw Brent’s kayak outside with all his gear on it. She was concerned as last Saturday night someone stole a fisherman’s kayak and all his gear, also stole bikes and other things from around the camp. Looking at the security camera’s it was about 2am in the morning, she suggested that Brent could put the kayak in there garage behind their locked gates to their house which he did. 


Saturday 23 February 2019

Bowentown to Papamoa

Distance 45.6km , Time 6.4hrs , Average Speed 7.1km/hr

Later start as weather front was due to pass through this morning. Forecasts aren’t consistent but worst is meant to be a moderate SW that could slow me down. I could get some cover from Matakana Island for the 4 hour paddle to Mt Maunganui, if necessary. Walked to the top of Bowentown Heads, just behind the motor camp, to check the conditions at the Katikati entrance and bar and get a better feel for the weather coming out of the west. Higher tide now and the bar looked narly on both sides of the entrance. Weather looked to be clearing from the west now with patches of clear sky showing. No wind to speak of.

Got Secala from the campground garage that the Campground owner offered due to recent spate of thefts. Owner was intrigued by my trip and keen hear all about it.

Higher tide for the launch today smoothing over some outer breaks but still breaking on the larger sets. Definitely need to be very watchful here.
Paddled a long way out before I was comfortable to stop beyond the breakers. Came uncomfortably close to one breaking wave a long way off shore.
After the routine VHF check-in with Shaz I set on my way to negotiate the bar on the south side of the entrance.
Anxious moments until things flattened out and happy at last to relax into the paddle. Wind conditions were a ripple of a NE that didn’t change all the way to the Mount. Still a grey day though and watchful behind and to the west for any sign of a change.
Approaching the Mount, Shaz called to say surf was high at the Mount beach and suggested to head around Moturiki island. Did this and had a nice ride to the beach in lower surf. Am getting to like these lunchtime breaks with Shaz on the beach.
As I prepared to re-launch some young lifeguards offered to push me into the water. Suggested that that would be cheating and declined, but nice the see young folk offer help to an old man. (I bet they wouldn’t give up their seat in the bus though)
Set out through the surf as the wind had come away from the SW and picked up to about 10kts. Making good speed and feeling strong. Could have easily pushed on to Maketu a couple of hours further on but had a dinner date with Jan and Vic at Thornton which was another hours drive away.

Shaz called up to guide me in to Papamoa. Had a good ride in through the surf until the last shore break dumped me despite my brace attempt. Shaz sure to have had a good laugh.
A guy from one of the beach houses came out to give me the thumbs up for my ride and offered to help me up the beach with Secala. Talked to him for a bit about what I was doing.


Shaz …………. Great nights sleep, in a comfy bed! Rained all night, they really need it up here! I got up around 6.45am, Brent must be outside checking the conditions. When he came back it was after 7.15am, said that it looked OK but was going to wait for the 8am weather forecast before making his final decision. He went to the camp owners house to retrieve his kayak and get organised just in case. Happy with the weather report and was keen to go and knock another day off his adventure. Headed down to the beach (across country this time) at the end of the camp access rather the road. 

Cross country entry to Ocean Beach at Bowentown
Launching at Ocean Beach

I stayed up on the boardwalk and watched him and get ready to video his launch as it maybe a ‘hairy one’. On the water by 8.15am, took 20 minutes to get out past the breakers. He turned on his inReach at 8.35am and started to head for Mt Maunganui where I will meet him for lunch.

Looking across towards Mt Maunganui from Ocean Beach; 2 ships in the distance

Back to camp showered, packed and headed off for Mt Maunganui. Along the way I stopped at Waihi Beach town had a coffee and a look around the shops. One of the shops there was ‘The French Shop’, wanted to have a look in there but didn’t open until 10am that’s the French for you!! Sorry Alex! 

I set off for the Mount, no places to stop off and make contact with Brent as he was on the other side of Matakana Island. The Mount was a busy place today, full of Americans from on board the cruise ship that was in port. Being a Saturday doesn’t help, as everyone was at the beach! It was an overcast day but that didn’t stop people, especially the surfers. The main beach was great for the surfers, but not so good for Brent to come in on!

Mt Maunganui beach

Waves were dumping on the beach, so suggested that he come in on the other side of Moturiki Island. He landed on the beach at 12.45pm, good ride in!

We had lunch on the beach, and talked about whether he wanted to go onto Maketu. Decided to go down the beach to Papamoa somewhere, about where the road ends. 

Brent was back on the water at 1.17pm. I went on looking at the shops, got some beer for Brent when he finished. Driving down the road there aren’t many places where you can get access to the beach from the car without a long walk. So I looked around and found Motiti Road with a beach access car park, perfect! Called Brent on VHF as I could see him! Right next to me was a house with a Blue gazebo right on the edge of their property and the beach told him to head for that! He saw it and headed for that, said that he was packing down his gear and coming in. OMG what a ride he had and then right at the last minute over he went! He hasn’t come out like that for a while and I actually got all that on video! Thumbs up for me, as I have sucked at that lately.

Some locals witnessed Brent’s landing/capsize, and came down to the beach to talk to him. He said that he has lived here a long time and seen a lot of people come in, but none of them had had a great ride in like Brent. He was even kind enough to help lift the kayak up the steps to the Ute.

Locals that witnessed his landing!!

Tonight we are going to Jan and Vic’s for the night in Thornton, Whakatane. Vic (82yrs) is looking forward to Brent coming in at Thornton beach. Heading home tomorrow, until next time!