paua – Secala Kayak Adventures

06/04/202116/07/2021

2. Fiordland – Green Islets (8 days)

Tuesday, 09 February – Tuesday, 16th February

The first night is steady rain. All night. Only realising in the morning, that the tent floor is wet. Inside! But only under my air mattress and air pillow. The direct pressure on the tent floor had drawn moisture through it. The rest is fine. I slept well enough through the night regardless. Saved by Sea to Summit air mattress and pillow, again.

Applied sandfly defences before emerging from the tent into the adjoining tarp shelter. The rain is still intermittent. Made a coffee and went for a walk to survey my new digs. Between showers. There is a fresh set of deer prints along the beach; below the high water mark. Must have come past early this morning. After the tide had ebbed somewhat. And clearly good grazing and shelter for them at either end of the beach. I follow the prints towards the scrub line and find fresh droppings and more prints in the mud. Dearly like to spot one sometime.

I can tell it’s really rough outside the Bay. Very glad to be tucked in here. I’m completely sheltered by the surrounding cliffs. There wouldn’t be many better places to be hold up in. Be patient. Conditions will come right.

Rough outside the Bay. Love a fire! Drying out the wood after a wet night.

Return to camp for a half ration of muesli and tea. Figure I can easily cut down on consumption when not paddling.

Wandered off to find a good water source. There are some trickles nearby; under the cliffs. But these will dry up quickly after the rain. I find a creek with a larger catchment beyond the arch. It has good flow but is still brackish. Looks like strong tea. Or whiskey. And tastes good.

On the way back I check the rocky areas around the arch; for paua. There are multiple pools left with the receding tide. I have a casual look, thinking there must be easy pickings here somewhere. Very surprisingly I see NO paua! I haven’t got serious yet. I’m keeping my socks dry. For now.

Back at camp, I composed a few messages for inReach but for some reason my iPhone wouldn’t sync with it. Sent messages the hard way, directly from the inReach unit. Painfully slow. Realise how reliant on comms I am out here.

The sandflies are incredible. In size and numbers. Keeping moving is a good option. Or the sandfly clouds settle all over your body. And there are clouds hovering in reserve! I have 40% deet repellent on my hands and a few still get through. They penetrate the head net where it makes contact with the skin. Guaranteed! Smearing deet over the head net is a good idea. My sipper cup of tea is covered especially around the sipper opening. Some crawl through. Or fall through. There are lumps with each sip. I guess there’s protein there. Haven’t figured out where these critters fit into natures balance. What sustains so many of them? They don’t just hang out till the next silly human comes along; do they? Need to learn more about their life cycle.

Overall I easily come to terms with them. Got to. With protection, they can be largely ignored. Until one sneaks through the defences. That occurs often.

Some of my observations of them so far: – In (or near) the bush, they are more concentrated in numbers; They don’t like the wind or the wet; and seem to prefer cooler temperatures. They are attracted to light; natural or artificial. And they do not venture over water very far. They can fly very quickly though; but not for long. I tried out-sprinting them on Secala a few times; while paddling away from the beach. Watched a cloud of them hovering over my bow for a surprising period of time.

The southern end of the beach across the Bay. There is an isthmus linking the islet to the mainland at low tide.

I explore the southern end of the beach (pictured across the bay above) at low tide. An amazing area. There is a seal colony on the islet with many seal pups congregating in the cavern that runs right through it. I didn’t explore the cavern. To avoid upsetting the pups. And their mums! There is plenty of paua across the isthmus. Easy pickings. I keep my socks dry. A great habitat for deer in the low manuka scrub above the beach. There is a narrow view through to the open sea to the SW too. Which is handy.

A stunning area. I’m not at all disappointed to be hold up here.

The days roll by. Routines are established. Roll out of the tent at dawn. Reconsider my paddle options first. Check the conditions in the Bay and beyond. As best I can. Compare this against the forecast. Are there any fishing boats around that I can talk to? Make a final decision to stay or go.

I spend the day outside wherever possible; and generally on the move. Doing something. Either walking around the coast to the east; checking for fresh deer sign everywhere I go. And do a casual deer stalk, of sorts, when I’m not in a “winded” position.

I often carry my VHF when heading away from camp. Fishing boats turn up randomly checking pots or seeking shelter. I have a good chat with a couple of them during my time here. Disappointed at a few fishing boats that didn’t reply on VHF. I expect there are good reasons. The working channel around here is 10. I default to this channel first and try 16 if unsuccessful. The fishermen I do chat with are genuine good buggers. I expect all the fishermen are; in these parts. It comes naturally for them to enquire about peoples welfare. Where it’s clear that people are not normally meant to be. They offer me crayfish and I even get an offer of a ride out to Jackson Bay.

I explore the isthmus area everyday at low tide observing seals, birdlife and getting paua. I paddle around the islets and reefs and go fishing for blue cod. Replenish water supplies; work out the daily food intake; confirm the tally of remaining food. I walk the high tide zone gathering foreign matter (usually plastic) to burn. Collect fire wood; build a fire; making a coffee or tea to enjoy at my favourite spot by the arch. Write up my log. The days slip by easily.

It’s surprisingly easy to reduce the food intake. I just don’t feel hungry. At all. Often I get through the day on coffee, tea; some dried fruit and nuts. A little chocolate or an Em’s cookie. Until the evening meal. This will be large portions of fresh fish or paua with a half ration of gnocchi or rice cooked in coconut oil and garlic. Occasionally I will have half a cup of muesli in the morning. The day prior to a paddle day I resume ‘normal’ consumption. In preparation.

On most days, the cloud disperses by mid morning. Allowing the solar panel to do its work charging up the power bank, iPhone, inReach and GoPro. Once fully charged the iPhone and inReach are back talking to each other. Thankfully! The Goalzero solar panel works a treat.

I don’t go inside the tent all day. On good days. To prevent sandfly intrusion. And its too beautiful and enjoyable outside to swap for the inside of a tent.

Once I do go into the tent in the evening, I stay put. I have my pee bottle just outside the zip on one side. The drink bottle just outside the zip on the opposite side. Precautionary measure. Still risky. But segregation helps. And insect repellent is right there too; for the morning pre-exit application.

The first job when inside the tent is sandfly eradication. There are usually a couple of hundred sandflies in with me initially. The vast majority are attracted towards the lightest area of the tent. This is always a high point and where the evening light filters through the trees the strongest. Full hand swipes across the tent surface takes out, or disables, about 10 at a time. Then wait for them to re-settle. When down to the last 20 or so I target individuals until there are only a few left. All up, takes about half an hour. The greatest pleasure is getting the ones gorged with my blood. Retribution is sweet. But tinged with disappointment that they beat my defences. Red stains are accumulating on the tent walls.

It can be creepy when it’s dark; listening to hordes of sandflies tapping on the outside of the tent. It sounds like a steady light rain. Best not to dwell on it. In the morning they are still there. Under a microscope I’m sure they would look like vampires! Best not to dwell on it.

The wind forecasts for Puysegur over the coming days sway from strong SW to stronger Nly winds.

Tuesday, 9th Feb – Forecast S 25kt. Steady rain overnight easing up during the morning. A sunny afternoon with the wind picking up considerably.

Wednesday, 10th Feb – Forecast. Shaz simply says “NO GO”. Light rain all night and day. Miserable. Cooler. There is more Sly in the wind. Shore dump in Bay. Too rough even for paua gathering. Encouraging words from Lynn (Red) Paterson today – to enjoy while I can; too soon I will be moving on from this beautiful place.

Thursday, 11th Feb – Forecast SW 25kt. Rained all night and most of the day. Sea conditions bad. A break-out through the Islets impossible at low tide. Plenty of seaweed washes up on the beach.

Friday, 12th Feb – Forecast NW 24kt. Fine day. Calm in the Bay. No chance of a launch today.

Saturday, 13th Feb – Forecast Nly 40kt. Cloudy for most of the day.

Sunday, 14th Feb – Forecast Nly 40kt. Cloudy start to day; then fine. Calm in the Bay. The forecast looks better tomorrow.

It’s difficult to read the sea conditions from the Bay. My next destination is Puysegur Landing (Preservation Inlet); or further to Landing Bay (Chalky Inlet) if possible. This is one of the most notorious and remote stretches of coastline in the country. Puysegur Landing is only 4hrs paddle away via Long Reef Point, Windsor Point, Marshall Rocks and, not least, Puysegur Point. However this route is NW out of the Bay. And I cannot see in this direction; to assess conditions, from inside the Bay.

The direction I’m heading. Tough territory!

The forecasts are confounding too. I chat with cray fishermen coming close into the Bay whenever I can. At times, when conditions look good from the beach; there is a gale warning issued for Puysegur. When I asked a fisherman about this, he says “I know” in a cynical tone. And at other times, when the forecast is acceptable; the fishermen warn against very sloppy sea conditions outside. Can’t beat real observations from local fishermen. I will always take their advice. In these parts!

For these most extreme locations (eg Northern Capes, Cape Palliser, East Cape, Kaipara), and some lesser ones; I ensure all factors align in my favour. For me, Windsor, Puysegur, Providence and West Cape not only have a bad reputation, but are the most remote. Firstly, weather forecasts (plural) must align. Second, my observations in the morning must concur; and lastly, it must feel right when I’m on the water.

Some days it’s obvious that conditions are really bad and I’m lucky to be in such a wonderful location. On others it’s confounding that I can’t paddle. Be patient ……Be safe. Listen to the fishermen; take heed of the forecasts. There are very few escape routes. When you are out there, you’re pretty much alone and committed. This is not an area to take risks.

The Bay gets quite deep straight off the beach and there are large reef bombies scattered all though it; most of which have bull kelp hanging off them. With my handline I had a couple of bottomship lures and ledger rigs made up with 5/0 hooks and some lumo tube to help keep the rigs from tangling.

I launch and feel the lightness of an empty Secala with the first few paddle strokes off the beach. All I have on board is my handline, tackle, a paua, a bait knife and an old shopping bag in the cockpit to put the fish into. In the bay I try a bottomship lure first, constantly working the handline so that I keep it just off the bottom. While I drifted. The depth varied between 5 – 10mts. Before long I had snagged a lure on something and had to cut it free. Tied on a ledger rig on with some fresh paua bait and instantly a good size wrasse came to the surface. Two more drops and instantly two more wrasse. Missed out on my target species – blue cod; but I wasn’t going to let these go to waste. They will be just fine with my rice or gnocchi.

From then on I paddled out beyond the Bay into deeper water. For blue cod. About 20mt by my reckoning (hand line estimate) and the cod are jumping on two at a time. Too easy.

Large portions of fish and paua bolster my rations significantly allowing me to halve each of my daily portions of vacuum sealed gnocchi or rice.

The only downside to the fishing routine is getting changed. From my dry clothes into my wetsuit. And back again. After the fishing. The speed of changing is my only defence. The gear is carefully laid out in front of me. As soon as I have my wetsuit peeled down to my waist, the sandflies immediately latch onto all available skin. There is no lag time. They are always hovering. I run down the beach while trying to get my long sleeve top on. The stinging ramps up the urgency. I’m yelping as I run. This doesn’t help. Just adds unnecessary drama. It would all look very funny. If anyone was watching. When the top is on, I slide it around my upper body to dislodge or kill the sandflies trapped beneath. And then I have to do the bottom half. Oh dear! I kick off the wetsuit as quickly as possible. I can’t run this time! But I can yelp! Much more meaningfully. Everything gets a hammering. A static target. It’s a genuine emergency now. My dry long johns are carefully laid out in front of me. I have coiled each long john leg up for quicker leg insertion. Apparently! Trying to be quick, sometimes isn’t. When trying too hard. The long johns don’t slide over damp legs easily. Giving more precious seconds to the sandflies. Finally there is rubbing and swiping over the top of the long johns to kill all the sandflies trapped beneath. The stinging and itching gradually subsides. Calm is eventually restored.

Thankfully there are not many wet days. When there is, I lay in bed and read. For as long as I can. Which isn’t long. And nap if I can. These are the boring days.

My favourite coffee pose. The Archway Cafe!

My Archway Cafe. A large rock, accessible on any tide, with a comfy patch of grass on top and the best view in the Bay. And generally fewer sandflies. This becomes my favourite spot to enjoy a coffee, or tea; with an Em’s cookie. Or a piece of chocolate. There is no better place in the world to be!

15th Feb – Forecast SW 10kt. Time to launch. At last! I’ve prepared the evening prior, and launch before 0800. Having said my farewells to a place I will remember fondly. And likely never return. I have marked my camp spot with 14 paua shells hung from a tree. One for each member of the family. So far. Me, Shaz, Daniel, Alex, Kiwi, Ben, Kirstie, Ava, Emily, Vinnie, Sarah, Katie, Scott and Theo!!

Then I’m back on the beach at 0830! I exited the Bay and rounded the point. There was no wind but the sea conditions were messy. Very messy. I muscled further out wide, to deeper water, but they don’t improve. I spend more time staying upright than moving forward. I turned back. Gutted; but I know it’s the right decision.

I resolve to try again later in the day. I won’t unpack Secala until I give it another go. Have another look. The sea conditions can change around here remarkably quickly. Either way. For better or worse. After lunch I launch again. Having said my farewells. Again. Not as bullish of success this time. I don’t send my usual inReach message upon launching. I will send it if I actually commit to the paddle towards Puysegur. Alas; same conditions …..same result. Be safe ……. be patient. Bottom line.

Dejected I return to my same spot and set up camp. With a few improvements.

16th Feb – Forecast SE 30kts. I eventually rise with the sounds of a storm brewing. I have felt it through the night. And no wonder. The storm is howling directly into the Bay. I feel the drop in temperature as soon as I throw the sleeping bag off. It is sunny though. The first time I have seen the sun so early in the day. I can observe the madness of the sea conditions from my sanctuary. The very strong SE is beating up the SW swell. The sea is raging. It’s the worst I’ve seen the Bay even though it’s protected by Islets and reefs. There will be no cod caught today but on the upside, the sandflies will be scarce. And there are long periods of full sun between the fast moving cloud fronts. It’s actually pleasant sitting in the sun at the top of the beach. My tent and tarp are perfectly protected 10 meters inside the bush. I start, however, to reassess my chances of staying here too much longer. My food supplies are OK for now, but if I miss another seemingly good weather window, the supplies could be getting too lean. The weather windows are usually several days apart.

I fall back into my routines. Water from east of the arch. Paua at the isthmus. There is a tree at the southern end of the beach that always has a wood pigeon in it. I see one on the way over to get paua and three on the way back. In the same tree. I observed a humorous thing with a pigeon the other day. One of them was flying directly out of the Bay while gaining height. It kept heading out towards the Southern Ocean for a curious length of time. As far as I know, these are not migratory birds. Then eventually it took a long sweeping U turn and headed back towards land. Still gaining height. It seems the big bugger needed an extra long runway to get its big undercarriage over the cliffs behind the beach. Funny!

After lunch the sea is still angry outside. It’s 35kts+ straight into the Bay. The reef breaks are being whipped up big time. But the wind is relatively light on the beach. Being hard up under the cliffs probably accounts for that. There is a large flock of Sooties working inside the lee of the Islets. I have read that these amazing birds can dive over 60 meters under water.

For dinner I fry up a couple of paua in garlic and then stir in some of Ben’s rice. Looking forward to my only meal of the day. While swapping the pan from hand to hand with a pot gripper, I dropped the pan. The pan inverts spilling all the paua and rice over the ground. Bugger! Most of it is on grass though. Wasting food is not an option. I get a little feral and eat my dinner off the ground.

The forecast for tomorrow is very marginal. But reliable forecasts are elusive around here. Have advised Shaz that if I don’t get out of here in the next weather window; I will need to consider getting out somehow. To get more food supplies.

Let’s see what tomorrow brings.

10/01/202010/01/2021

17. Akitio to Sandy Bay

26 December – 01 January, 2020

The Christmas break has come around again. Last year we based ourselves at Tutukaka campground in a tent. This year we have the luxury of our new campervan.

In contrast to last year, the weather forecasts in this next neck of the woods are highly variable, so paddle time could be limited. Not to worry …….. this is a terrific part of the country to relax and explore.

THIS TRIP: Akitio to Sandy Bay – 4 paddle days

Overall Distance: 134.0km Time: 21.9hrs Ave Speed: 6.1km/hr

Thursday, 26 December, 2019

Akitio to Mataikona

**Distance 25.9km Time 3.6 hours Average Speed 7.2km/hr**

Boxing Day and not fully energised to get on the road from New Plymouth even though todays forecast in the Wairarapa is the best for a few days. Tomorrow afternoon winds at Castle Point are forecast to ramp up to 25+kts from the NW (offshore).

Arrived at Akitio just after 1500hrs meaning a paddle start at around 1600hrs. Too late to get to Castle Point (6 hours away) today. Decided to get on the water and get as far as I can, then find a beach to camp out on, leaving only about a couple of hours paddle to Castle Point tomorrow before the predicted offshore winds kick in. The most likely target today is the Mataikona area and find a good landing.

The conditions are perfect at Akitio with the NE following breeze true to forecast. An easy launch in the lee of the adjoining reef yet still managed a wet start as the laden Secala nosed through the small surf. Swung around the reef and Akitio campground, where Shaz would be staying tonight, and set to hug the shoreline towards Owahanga. The distinctive Castle Rock is now easily made out in the distance, for the first time.

Even with a favourable breeze, I was conscious of the limited hours left in the day, so kept my pace up to ensure I gave myself enough time to find and set up a camp in daylight. With sunset at 2050hrs, I set a paddle deadline of about 2000hrs. This should easily get me to Mataikona, maybe a bit further.

This section of coast consisted completely of rolling hill pasture. Sheep and beef country. Passing close by Owahanga noticed the easterly swell picking up to 2m and by the time I reached Mataikona there was a good surge crashing over the rocky shoreline.

Houses at Mataikona ahead. Rocks (foreground) offer some shoreline protection just north of Mataikona River.

Preferring to avoid a rocky landing in these conditions, I turned to paddle back for a look at the beach just north of the river that has a reef offering some protection from the swell. Saw a much easier and softer beach landing here; and the added bonus of being pretty remote.

Easy landing and set up camp. Glad to have packed some storm tent pegs for pitching the tent on sand.

Mataikona beach. Castle Rock faintly visible in the distance.

Sat on the beach with a tasty dehydrated chicken tikka masala and coffee watching the surf in the fading light. Perfect!

Spark is offering one bar reception here, so caught up with Shaz and checked tomorrow’s forecast. Light N turning strong NW in the afternoon. Perfect! A casual breakfast and decamp before an easy 2 hour paddle to Castle Point in the morning. Shaz would take longer to drive from Akitio than I would take to paddle to Castle Point.

Shaz ………..

26 December 2019 (Boxing Day)

On the road again today heading for Akitio. Left late around 10am, late night last night (Christmas Day) to much boozing with the boys!

Arrived at Akitio at 3.15 pm, Brent a little annoyed that he didn’t go to bed earlier last night! But hey it was Christmas!!

The weather is going to turn bad tomorrow, so wants to get on the water today if he can. After assessing the situation he decides to go for it and stay over night on a beach somewhere along the coast. So I help him get stuff ready, unload the camper and he loaded up the kayak with all his overnight gear while I got some food ready for him. He was all sorted and on the water by 4.12pm!

Brent told me to stay the night here in Akitio at the campground which I have done $18 for the night on a non powered site. Campsite right next to the beach, watched Brent until he disappear down the coast line.

Friday, 27 December, 2019

Mataikona to Castle Point

Woke at my usual 0430. Slept well in the tent. No doubt catching up from last night. “In no rush this morning” I told myself, so rolled over and feigned sleep. At 0500 the tent started flapping which I tried to ignore. Moments later; more intent flapping. Bugger!

Got up to see and feel a steady offshore breeze out through Mataikona valley. Winds possibly ahead of schedule. Decided to pack up and get on the water asap without breakfast. So much for the casual start! One thing for sure around here ……. Wairarapa (esp Castle Point) + strong offshore wind = stay off the water

Surf was easy but managed to perfectly time a full frontal as Secala nosed through the low shore break.

Familiar offshore wind gusts through Mataikona Valley but OK. When away from the influence of the valleys, a northerly wind steadily increased, as I tried to hug the shore as best I could.

Castle Point with the prominent Castle Rock behind

Aimed for the lee of Castle Point once I figured I had given enough respect to the offshore tending wind through Castle Point bay.

Under the lee of Castle Point everything flattened out. Very cool arriving right under one of NZ’s iconic land marks. The landing was as smooth as a lake.
NW winds steadily picked up during the morning though, to well over 30kts. Scary stuff. Glad my instincts kicked in to get on the water early at Mataikona.

Had to drag the laden Secala 100m or so along the beach to where we hoped to park the camper for a night or two. A fisherman called out from his fishing boat parked on the beach (see above) offering a ride on his ute. Another car driving along the sandy isthmus and stopped for a chat. A lot of interested and interesting people out there.

View of the Gap and Castle Point from Castle Rock

Paddling is out tomorrow according to the forecast.

A southerly rolling in the following day

27 December 2019

Late waking up this morning, so late leaving for Castle Point oops! Left Akitio at 7.39am and arrived at Castlepoint at 10.30am.

Brent was waiting for me! He had texted me but couldn’t read as I was driving, to say that the freedom camping parks had almost all gone! There was a couple of parks left, but not big enough for the van to fit. I just waited patiently and sure enough one came up! The turn over for parks here is amazing, coming and going all day! Brent has left his gear outside just in front of the camper, as to windy to put up top. Made a cup of tea and chilled for a bit, then went for a walk to the store about 10 – 15 minutes away and got some eggs and crackers. The store was so busy with people ordering takeaways and dining in! The sea is very choppy, not good for Brent at all! Brent went for a long walk and I stayed with his gear being outside! Plenty of people looking for a park for the night, self contained vehicles only……. yeah right! They have the sticker on them, but I doubt it very much that they are! The wind is so bad that the sand is swirly around going everywhere, including the van! Thank god we brought a Dyson vacuum cleaner. I cooked stir fry pork and rice for dinner, in our nice dry camper van! All the others were standing outside behind their vans cooking, not a pleasant time I’m sure! Couldn’t watch the news tonight as the satellite dish couldn’t pick up a signal, so plenty of reading was done before bed time. An amazing sunset tonight, everyone one was taking photos! I tried using my camera, still haven’t mastered the technique of using it probably! I should have taken some on my cellphone also, but didn’t.

Shaz ………

28 December 2019

Slow start to the day; windy and raining most of the night. Rather boring really as not much to do here and parks to narrow to have awning out to have the door open. The weather gradually got better as the day went on! By late afternoon the conditions have improve considerably, hopefully Brent will get on the water tomorrow!

Heading to Flat Point, looking forward to seeing Karen and Lance! Over the years I have heard so much about their place there!

Sunset not so good tonight, but the light house looked amazing. Tried the camera again without success, got one on cellphone which was ok!

Sunday, 29 December, 2019

Castle Point to Flat Point

**Distance 48.2km Time 7.9 hours Average Speed 6.1km/hr**

Up at 0400 for an early start. Drybags prepared for potential solo overnighter. Usual morning breakfast routine and weather check. One weather forecast had now changed to southerly 15-20kts. Based on recent experiences, that could mean anything from 15-30kts. Gun shy now. Wanted to wait for daylight so I could have a look at the conditions. At sunrise a moderate NW offshore was blowing out the bay. This was not forecast but could be just a land breeze?
Decided to wait for a couple of hours to see how things shaped up and if the predicted SW would kick in. By 0900 the southerly had arrived but was light. Conditions were too good to squander. Was prepared to come ashore along the way, if necessary, to wait out a southerly, or even camp the night. Planned with Shaz to meet her at Riversdale (4 hour paddle) to reassess plans …….. if I get there!

Been keen on getting to Flat Point for some time now as Shaz’s previous employers Karen and Lance have a house there, and since they left New Plymouth for Masterton some years ago, we have not seen them. There has been an open invitation to visit them since they left. Getting to them by kayak is probably not how they expected visitors to arrive!

Loaded Secala up and launched under the lighthouse at 1000hrs.
Rounded the magnificent Point and along the cliffs with minimal buffeting off the cliffs. Chatted with a crayfisherman who asked where I was off to. A little surprised that I was going so far, and with a “Good onya”; wished me luck.

Heading south down the outside of Castle Point

Set a steady pace and headed around Castle Rock for shoreline of Christmas Bay.

Followed typical Wairarapa hilly dry stock pasture to Riversdale. Occasional farm houses. Plenty of places to pull into a remote beach if necessary. Paying the price now for applying ordinary sunblock earlier this morning rather than my usual Island Tribe. This was now running into the corner of my eyes with sweat. The southerly 8-10kts has subsided and started backing to the East as I approached Riversdale providing evidence maybe, that the forecasted stronger southerly would not eventuate. I was about 30 minutes behind my estimated 4 hours to Riversdale now.

Typical of the reefs down this section of coast

Riversdale Beach ahead. Half way to Flat Rock. Uruti Point on far left.

At Riversdale chatted with Shaz by VHF to say I would continue on to Flat Point and be there in about 3.5 hours ……….. and reminded her to put a beer in the fridge. By Uruti Point the wind had backed further to a NE assist which eased the paddling effort. The next prominent landmark was Uruti Point that looked particularly messy as I got closer. Swell now from the NE & SE and the wind over the shoals and reef edge made it difficult to size up a good track through the turbulence. If in doubt, stay out; is the mantra. Still got surprised by some peaking reef breaks justifying the decision to stay further out. Latched on to a line of cray pots that, as usual, provided a good guide on the right line to take around the reef.

There were many isolated reefs between Uruti Point and Flat Point that, in isolation, were easy enough to negotiate. Had to be watchful of the rocks that still lurked just under the surface.

Whenever paddling, particularly close in to shore, its often a challenge trying to make out your destination against distant points of land. On this occasion I had three points fairly close to each other to choose from. Only one of these points, the closest one, had a low lying shoreline. Figuring that Flat Point was named for a reason, I was a little confused when it became clear that this one wasn’t my destination. The next two headlands were steep to the waters edge. All became clear as I rounded these points and the very low lying Flat Point was finally exposed.

At last …….. Flat Point exposed ……….. (behind the reef in the foreground)

Approaching Flat Point and still a couple of kilometres away, I saw a fishing boat arrive back at the beach and get recovered by a tractor. This gave me a lead on where to land and where the nearest vehicle access would be. Shaz had just arrived as I did, but could not get close to the beach with the van.

The shore is protected by a large reef that extends out and around the entire point. Found what I thought the best lead into the beach and cruised in through low surf. Pleased to have made it this far after a dubious start to the day.

Moments later Lance cruised onto the beach in his 4WD with Shaz, a big smile and a cold beer. What a welcome!

Secala secluded in the dunes with the blessing of this bach owner

*A couple of cray fisherman launched in the lee of the reef.*

Typical sight along the beaches in this area

Local tips:
The reef offers shore break protection at high tide up to a 2m swell.
Even the cray fishermen don’t go out in the bay in a NW.
Can easily paddle through channel between reef and Point during most tides (esp. low) during swells less than 2m.

Shaz ………

29 December 2019

Slept in this morning, wind still up! Brent decided to give it a go and loaded up the kayak with overnight gear just in case!

He was on the water by 9.50am from Castlepoint heading for Flat Point wind permitting, but to check in at Riversdale first.

Brent asked me to get some photos from the cliffs! I got as far as the lighthouse and saw him coming around the corner, there was no way that I was going to make it to the cliffs in time for photos.

Took what I could and then ran down the walkway to the bottom, across the sand up to where the camper was parked thinking that I could get a photo of him coming across past the inlet, but no he was to fast ……… missed him! Took a couple of photos, close up of the lighthouse also!

Cleaned up and sorted before leaving the car park, drove down to the beach front and parked up there for half and hour ………. so peaceful!

Left Castlepoint for Riversdale a 49 minute drive. Arrived at Riversdale around 12.30pm and parked up near a tree for a little bit of shade!

Just in front of me on the other side of the fence is a Caravan that sells coffee (Alter Eco Coffee). The coffee was great and they had food available also (GF, Dairy free, vegan) raw organic food.

OMG, if you don’t have a 4 wheel motorbike here at Riversdale you don’t fit in ……. they’re everywhere!

Around 2.30pm Brent contacted me on VHF to say he was going to go onto Flat Point. Great, so I headed off to Masterton to empty tanks, fill water tank, get diesel and top up supplies. Brent messaged me to say that he would be at Flat Point by 5.30pm, I replied to say that I didn’t think I would be there by then as its a 1 hour drive from Masterton to Flat Point. Great road until you hit the gravel road, slows you down a bit! Amazing views from the top of the hills above looking down over towards Flat Point.

Arrived at Karen and Lance Scott’s at 5.50pm, then had to find Brent who was on the beach somewhere! There was no direct assess to the beach from the road. Lance and I drove down to the beach in his 4 wheel drive truck, through a locked gate to the beach. Brent was just where Lance thought he would be unloading his gear!

Good old Lance had a couple of cold one’s (beer’s) in a little chiller bag for Brent! We loaded all his gear into the back of Lance’s truck! Lance went and asked the guy who lives near the beach if Brent could leave his kayak by his place! Not problem then drove back up the beach onto their beach house. There are always people who want to know what Brent is doing, and listen with great interest!

It was so nice seeing everyone again Karen, Lance, their daughter Tracey, her husband and children, also Karen and Lance’s mum’s!

So nice sitting out on the deck having a drink with them all and catching up, followed by a lovely steak dinner. Early night for everyone, it’s been a long day!

30 December 2019

Slept in this morning, as conditions not good today for kayaking. So nice for a change, lovely being here at Karen and Lance’s place at Flat Point. Nice having a shower in their house as there’s a little bit more room to move!

While Brent went for a walk, I had a little catch up with Karen, so nice. After a coffee and something to eat I decided to go for a walk along the beach myself. Once on the beach I turned to my right to walk along the beach but it soon become apparent this wasn’t a good idea I was walking into a strong southerly wind!

Turned around and walked down the beach towards the spot where Brent came in yesterday! Nice beach – tide starting to go out, the reef becoming more visible now! It’s so quiet and peaceful walking along here, no noise what so ever just the waves breaking against the reef and beach. Walking along I saw a golf ball wedged between to rocks, Lance was saying that there used to be a 9 hole golf coarse between their place and the beach.

Walking along the road back to the house I caught up with Karen, Lance and their friends who had been down further along the beach.

We all went inside for a cup of tea, Karen had baked some scones for her visitors and was now making corn fritters for a late lunch around 2.15pm. Later on Brent went on the 4 wheel motorbike with Lance down to the beach as he was going to dive for paua with Glen.

Karen and I went for a nice long walk along the beach down to where the boys were diving for paua. The paua over here are huge compared to Taranaki!

When the guys got back Brent showed me his hand that he had cut, luckily it didn’t go to deep!

Tonight Karen had cooked a lovely glazed ham with roasted vegetables and peas! So nice of them to invite us for dinner again, such a yummy meal! One thing about staying hear the beach you have early nights!

31 December 2019

Up around 7.30am this morning and Brent had already gone for a walk to check out the weather conditions. Looking out the window it still appears to be windy, bugger! I know he will be a little frustrated, but at the same time he won’t put himself in danger!

Made a coffee and toast, sat in the peace and quiet enjoying my breakfast!

Brent returned from his walk, conditions still the same and not likely to get out today! He said that he saw a seal down on the beach, I asked where but he said it had gone now! Decided to go for a walk myself and took my camera with me! Walking along the beach is so peaceful no one around for miles! Flat Point there is no tourists, no noisey 4 wheel motorbikes going up and down the beach, enough space between beach houses that you don’t annoy each other.

Talking to Karen and Lance there is a real feel of community spirit here, everyone gets together for special occasions!

Walking along the beach taking photos of the waves crashing against the rocks, beautiful morning!

As I was walking I saw something move on the beach it was a seal lying in the sun! If he hadn’t moved his head I’m not sure that I would have realised that it was a seal! I took a few photos of him without getting to close! He didn’t move, but was keeping an eye on me the whole time moving his head just watching!

I carried on down the beach and then back up the metal track and climbed over the fence, and back to the camper van. Brent looks like he has gone for another walk somewhere!

Betty and Marion saw me and asked if I’d like a cup of tea or coffee as everyone else had gone for a walk. Just lovely ladies, talked about their trips here to Flat Point over the years with Karen and Lance and how much they love coming here!

Went back to the van and Brent was back, I made some scones for lunch and just relaxed outside with the awning up!

Karen, Lance and all the family went down to the beach so the kids could go swimming! Great day for it, the kids had a ball!

Brent went off with a bag in hand to pick up rubbish on the beach, however this is one of the cleanest beaches I’ve ever seen! Had another walk myself and came across the family at the beach, Karen decide to walk back with me.

Brent got all his gear ready and took it down to his kayak on Lance’s 4 wheel motorbike ready for the morning as the weather is going to be good for some of the day.

Tonight we had another lovely meal with the Scott’s family, not sure if anyone stayed up until midnight to see the New Year in or not! Glen made some yummy Paua chips!

HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE FOR 2020

Glen’s Paua Chips: Slice paua into strips and cover with ‘FogDog’ Premium Gluten Free shake and bake coating mix, then fry in hot oil until golden careful not to overcook.

Tuesday, 01 January, 2020

Flat Point to Sandy Bay

**Distance 46.2km Time 8.3 hours Average Speed 5.6km/hr**

Karen and Lance have been great hosts for the last 3 nights as we parked our camper outside their house at Flat Point, and a great place for some RnR. The remote beaches offer novelties of big paua shells scattered along the tidal zone and the occasional seal lazing on the beach. The birdlife along the shoreline is prolific with herons, terns, oyster catchers, shearwaters offering Shaz plenty of photographic practice. And the very friendly locals ……. particularly one local who offered more to the naked eye than necessary from her front window. (Found out later that the couple are naturalists)

Went snorklling for paua with Glen, in waist deep water and grabbed a crayfish from amongst the weed (which was returned as it was barely legal). What a treat getting some decent sized paua for a change.

Intending on an early start, I pre-packed Secala down at the dunes yesterday evening, thanking the bach owner as they were getting started with a few NY’s eve bevies.

Secala loaded up the evening before; ready for an early launch

Up at 0400 and keen to get going. Brekkie down, waiting now for first light (5am) to walk down to the dunes and paddle the channel between the reef and point. The forecasts are variable today; surprise, surprise. Some saying 10kt Sly turning NW 10-15 in the afternoon. Others say light Nly tending Ely. Either way, too good to miss. As is the norm for this section of coast, I am loaded up and fully prepared to pull in somewhere if needed. The next few days forecast are not good so want to get the most out of today.
At the beach there is a light northerly and the tide is mostly out. Easy launch and paddle through the wide channel inside the reef.

Sunrise as I entered the bay towards Honeycomb Rock. As 0630 rolled by I tried to raise Maritime Radio on Ch 67; then 16 to give a TR (trip report). This section of coastline has no cellular coverage at all, so Shaz will not be able to keep track of me most of the day. No response initially from Maritime Radio. Thinking it was a bit too early for them, especially on NY day, I continued paddling. A short while later though, MR called back on 67. After Happy NY’s exchanged, I gave Tora as my destination with an ETA at about 1500hrs and suggested that I may not be in range to close out my TR with my handheld VHF down Tora way.
As agreed with Shaz I sent frequent inReach OK messages that she could get as she passed through possible areas of cell coverage on her road trip.

Honeycomb lighthouse (on the hill on right) and Honeycomb Rock (off the point ahead)

Retained the tailwind and good speed towards Honeycomb Rock and conscious of maintaining the progress while the going was good. I used Honeycomb lighthouse and the offshore Kahau Rocks transit as a good waypoint marker as I paddled between them. I was about 15 minutes ahead of my schedule. The conditions calmed as I passed Glendu Rocks and on to Pahaoa.

Paddling through Kairingaringa Reef that offers protection for boat launching. A shed and tractors on the beach behind the rocks.

Paddled through Kairingaringa reef just off Pahaoa. Maintaining strategy of staying close to shore. Maritime Radio weather forecast had Nly winds still forecast for the day and these are translating now into the now familiar offshore gusts down through the valleys. The loaded Secala proves very stable as my paddle stroke shorten up to deal with the variable conditions.

Then; contrary to predictions, a very light SE presents itself that rapidly bursts into a strong southerly. Unsure how strong this southerly would get around the exposed Point ahead, I took the opportunity to pull into a tiny beach through the rocks. Tantilisingly close to my destination now (only 6km short of Stony Bay) but still plenty of time in the day. Had been looking for a chance to come ashore anyway to relieve a “pressing” matter as I didn’t think I could hold on till Stony Bay.

Taking refuge from a strengthening southerly that whipped up unexpectedly off the Point ahead

Sent Shaz an inReach message as soon as I hit the beach, with a sitrep, in the hope she would receive it before she leaves internet coverage at Carterton.

Coffee time!

Unexpected southerlies tend to be short lived, in my limited experience around here……!! Otherwise it could be an overnighter. Thankfully the southerly backed off after about an hour and I messaged Shaz to say I was hitting the water again. As I launched and made my way towards Te Awaiti the wind eased off completely. That’s the Wairarapa for you!

Looking for a landing now as I am likely to arrive at Stony Bay before Shaz. While passing Te Awaiti a couple of locals were chatting on VHF Ch6 so I made an “all stations” call asking for info on landing options with vehicle access. Got no reply.

Up ahead, where I thought Stony Bay was, a couple of boats were heading for shore though a gap in the reef. An obvious couple of lead poles were positioned on the rocks that guided boats through a gap in the reef. I lined myself up with these and cruised into a perfectly sheltered beach and boat ramp.

Boats lead me towards the protected Sandy Bay. The boat “leads” can be seen on the rock, marking the passage through the reefs.

It turned out to be called Sandy Bay, according to the local boatie; one bay short of Stony Bay proper. Met and chatted with inquisitive boaties who hadn’t seen a kayak paddle into their harbour before!
Couldn’t raise Maritime Radio to close out my TR. Glad I suggested this to MR earlier.

Local Tips:
Expect winds from all directions and strengths. Forecasts are a guide.
Hug the shore
Always be prepared for an impromptu overnighter
Stoney Bay has a boat ramp but it has a private locked access.
Sandy Bay has a narrow channel (with beacon leads) completely flanked by reefs leading to a fully protected beach. Locals say the channel to Sandy Bay can be narly in rough conditions.
There are more open beach landing options at Te Awaiti and Tora

Shaz ………

1 January 2020 (New Years Day)

Brent was up at 3.55am this morning, itching to get going and make the most of the favourable conditions while they last!

Got up around 8am myself, had some breakfast and then went for a work along the beach taking some last minute photos before leaving this beautiful place today!

Flat Point looking north. (Castle Rock very faint in the distance)

Got back around 9.35am and had a shower, then a cup of tea with Karen and family before leaving around 10.30am heading for Tora. Before leaving Lance gave me some paua, that Brent and Glen caught the other day already minced and frozen. I put 3 packs in our freezer and left one out for our dinner tonight.

After saying good bye to everyone I headed for Carterton to empty the tanks, fill up with water, get diesel and supplies from the supermarket. Stopped at the top of the hill and pulled over to take a photo looking down across to Flat Point in the distance.

Brent messaged me there to say that he had pulled into a beach as the southerly wind came up making paddling difficult. He said to hang around in Carterton so I had internet until he messaged back with what he was going to do! Around half hour later he messaged to say that he was going onto Te Awaiti but wasn’t sure if there was a good landing spot there. He said that he might try and go to Stony Bay, but to call him on the VHF along the coast to when I get there!

The road was great until I got to the gravel road, it was awful like a continuous judder bar all along the road! Poor van, everything was rattling and banging driving me mad! Finally got to the turn off at Tora towards Te Awaiti. Driving along the coastal road I saw Brent close to the shore so called him on the VHF. He said that he was going to come into this bay! It turns out this was called Sandy Bay!

I had to park in the parking area outside the closed gate, when I got to him he was already talking to this young guy. He was intrigued as he has never seen a kayak land on the beach here before!

Lots of people interested in how Brent was going to get the kayak up on the roof of the van. Anyway once we packed up, washed down the kayak we set off to camp the night at Te Awaiti reserve camp.

I cooked paua fritters for tea, they were so good! Cooked them just like Karen and Lance said too, delicious guys thanks!

Early to bed tonight, Brent crashed by 7.30pm.

Paua Fritters: 1/2 cup flour, 1 egg and enough milk to mix until a nice sticky consistency not to running add mince paua and one finely chopped onion, salt and pepper to season. Heat oil in a frying pan and cook paua fritters. Simple and yummy!

2 January 2020

Had a sleep in this morning, even Brent did for a change! Brent made a cooked breakfast before we left Te Awaiti beach camp, looks like most people heading home today!

We left Te Awaiti at 9.50am, we drove along to Tora beach to check it out and then back down the judder bar gravel road onto Martinborough.

Brent wanted to drive onto Ngawi and check out the possible landing spots. We were going to stay the night there and check into a camp ground as we need to power up the camper van. It appears that the house battery isn’t charging as it should! Anyway no room, so we headed north! Contacted Eketahuna Camping Ground and they had plenty of power sites tonight, so decided to stay the night there. What a really nice campground, friendly people running it! You just park up, plug into power and they come around introduce themselves and collect your payment $10 per person per night and the showers are free!!!

18/12/201910/01/2021

16. Windy Wairarapa – Waimarama to Akitio

05 – 07 November, 2019

Driving south out of New Plymouth for the first time since this adventure began is some kind of progress milestone I guess. Nice change of scenery anyway. This is another 4 day window where the weather seems acceptable; and I’m keen to retain some early season paddle fitness.

THIS TRIP: Waimarama to Akitio – 3 paddle days

Overall Distance: 116.2km Time: 17.7hrs Ave Speed: 6.6km/hr

Thursday, 05 December, 2019

Waimarama to Aramoana

**Distance 43.5km Time 6.63hrs Average Speed 6.6km/hr**

Arrived at Waimarama from Wanganui having stayed there the night. A lot quieter at Waimarama beach today. The tide was out offering an easy surf entry against the protective rocky outcrop projecting off the beach. On the water just before 1100hrs. There was a light (5kt) northerly however the forecast was for anything from the NW to SW so not at all sure what we would get through the day; or how far we would get.

Agreed with Shaz that I would come in at Kairakau just 2.5 hours away and reassess our destination based on conditions.

Te Wainohu Point – just out of Waimarama. Taupata headland in the distance.

Stayed close to shore even through the light northerly remained with me all the way to Kairakau. Its much more interesting weaving through rocks and reefs.

Through the reefs off Taupata. *Kairakau ahead under the dark patch (trees) in the distance*

Arrived at Kairakau on schedule and Shaz directed me to land right in front of the camper. An easy landing but I left my bloody camelbak hydration tube under my skirt again, and didn’t realise until I was exiting Secala. Nevermind!

Kairakau for coffee with Shaz. Camper parked on the right

The conditions remained good, so after a cuppa and a snack, decided to go on to Pourerere at least, only 3 hours away. Maybe Aramoana, another hour further on.
Once we got going the wind swung offshore (NW). Had a great time paddling through and over reefs, having to keep a keen eye out for shoals that occasionally broke the surface in the low swell. Awesome paddling area.

Having settled into a rhythm now towards Paoanui Point, my attention was diverted towards movement on the surface of the water about 100m to my left. Almost certainly a bird of some sort, I casually focussed in on the area. My heart skipped a beat when a huge fin was scything through the water at speed heading north. Instantly realised that it was way too big to be a shark fin and, as it went past my beam, was clearly a killer whale (orca). Impressive sight seeing a huge fin flying through the water. Would have been keen for a closer look but no chance at the speed it was travelling. Was unusual, I thought, that this appeared to be a solo orca.

About 30 minutes later I saw another about 200m to my right, close in to the shore this time, also heading in a northerly direction. Presumably a second orca. Had my eyes peeled ahead now for an opportunity to possibly intercept one heading my way. Alas, didn’t see any more.

Into the afternoon now, the offshore NW developed enough to cause good gusts through valleys and ravines and to swing SW around headlands. Quite a different unsettling feeling with the varying nature of the winds on this section of coast. Without local knowledge, a heavy dose of caution is required I think.

Approaching Pourerere. Aramoana just around the corner

Once at Pourerere it was an easy decision to keep going to Aramoana, only 1 hour away. Called up Shaz by VHF to confirm my intentions. Once around Tuingara Point, with Aramoana in sight, a moderate SW headwind set in for the last 30 minutes or so reducing my speed down to 2km/hr. My workout for the day. The landing was as smooth as a lake under the protection of the reef that extends out from the southern end of the beach.

Arriving at Aramoana. Shaz guiding me in.

Access to beach and Te Angiangi Reef. Marine reserve on the right.

While we were there Eugene and his brother went out paua diving on the reef. Part of the reef is available for shellfish gathering while the rest falls within the Angiangi Marine Reserve. Aluminium poles are bolted to the reef marking the Reserve boundary. Upon their return they gave us 3 nice big paua. Much appreciated. Generally found the locals in these parts very friendly and keen to stop for a chat. Mentioned to Eugene about the orca, and he said it was common for them to be seen traveling north up this coast as far as Napier. This was a little late in the orca “season” apparently, as they are usually seen around September/October.

4 December 2019

Shaz …………..Packed up and ready to go! Brent picked me up from my photography class at the Meeting of the Waters, just outside New Plymouth, at 6.30pm and we headed for Whanganui for the night. Sarah had made dinner tonight, I had mine takeaway style eating in the van while Brent drove. Arrived in Whanganui around 8.40pm and parked up at the Springvale Park carpark along with other motorhomes.

5 December 2019

Up bright and early this morning with our coffee to go (Brent made a Bialetti) and on the road by 6am heading for Waimarama.

I drove and the only stop on the way was in Dargarville so Brent could get muesli ready to eat and we continued on!

Arrived at Waimarama around 10am, Brent unpacked his gear, kayak etc and I got some snack food ready for him (cheese & crackers, banana and Christmas cake). Before you knew it he was on the water and heading for Kairakau Beach 2.5hrs away.

After cleaning up, I headed for Kairakau Beach where I would contact him by VHF to see if he was going to continue as the wind was up a little! It was a beautiful sunny day 25 degrees outside now, so a little warm now! I arrived at Kairakau beach about 12.15pm, wasn’t expecting Brent for another hour yet. Made myself coffee, crackers with tomato, got out my chair and sat in the sun. Not long before it was too hot so put out the awning. Took a few photos on the camera, practicing techniques that I have been learning! Some good and some not so good, oh well!

Saw Brent in the distance and made contact on VHF, he is doing well but has decided to come in for cup of tea and cake! (This cake isn’t going to last long) Time is around 1pm!

Kairakau Beach with Hinemahanga Rocks behind

He was back on the water by 1.25pm, quick turn around!

Before leaving I took few more photos on the camera, some surfers walking back along the beach, flowers and this mosaic seat built in 2012 by Barbara Rush and moved to its current location in 2016.

Surfers at Kairakau. Taupata cliffs behind

Going onto Pourerere beach where he will make contact with me and let me know if he is going to go onto Aramoana for not. I took the long route to Pourerere as not too sure of the road from Kairakau to Pourerere and besides I need to get diesel. The closest place was Waipawa, filled up with diesel and went to the 4 Square and brought some sunblock. Then headed for Pourerere, heard from Brent on VHF around 4.30pm he is going to go onto Aramoana. Told him that apparently you need a permit to camp at Aramoana, but said that I would drive there and see! It was only a short drive to Aramoana on a gravel road, but it wasn’t to bad really! I drove down by the beach to where the motorhomes could stay overnight, there was no one there. I packed up and went for a walk down by the beach and a local man came along so I explain him about what Brent was doing and we never know where might be on a given day! He said ‘Nah mate it’s all good, so long as you are self contained all good’. Awesome, thank god!

Walked back to the van to get my camera, and 2 guys had arrived in the car park and were putting on their wet suits. They were going to get paua. They came from Hastings, just 40 minute drive.

While I was waiting to see Brent come around the point, a local farmer on his 4 wheeler came by and stopped for a chat! Explained what Brent was doing and he said ‘Why? What made him decide to do that’ and you know what I couldn’t really tell him except he just did! Funny, I must ask him as a lot of people ask me the same question.

Brent landed on the beach around 6pm dragged the kayak up the beach to where the van was parked.

Later on one of the 2 guys came back with his 10 paua, but the other guy was still out there! Brent was talking to Eugene for a while before his brother turned with his catch. He came over and gave us 3 paua, they are a lot bigger than we get in the Naki

06 December, 2019

Aramoana to Porangahau

**Distance 24.5km Time 3.7hrs Average Speed 6.6km/hr**

A bit of a struggle getting up this morning. Off the beach by 0600 though, after an easy launch. There is no internet coverage here so no weather update this morning. VHF Nowcasting is out of range too. Yesterdays forecast for the area was for more of the same, with a dominant NW flow over the lower North Island.

Just around the point from Aramoana is the little settlement of Blackhead that is neatly tucked in behind a small beach bordered closely by reefs north and south. Blackhead is located 7km north of Blackhead Point. Had a gentle but building NW offshore since my departure from Aramoana 30 minutes earlier.

As I approached Blackhead, gentle gusts from the south made themselves known which, I have found, is not unusual for this coast and no real cause for concern. Over the next hour, nearing Blackhead Point the gusts intensified and filled out to resemble a “wall” of white caps heading towards me. Concerned but undeterred, I ground it out, barely making headway in the chop, when I saw the wind intensifying even further up ahead. It was an effort keeping control of the paddle now. About 2km short of Blackhead Point I decided that finding shelter was the prudent thing to do and wait the southerly out. Completing a 180 turn, careful not to get caught out swinging broadside to the wind, started back-tracking towards Blackhead. With a hefty tailwind now I flew along the surface. Decided to return to Aramoana as it would probably be quicker than having Shaz weave her way by gravel roads to Blackhead. Sent Shaz an inReach message with my plans, knowing that she would not receive them until she got somewhere with internet reception. Arrived back at Aramoana having spent 2.8 hours paddling 15.4km for no net gain. No worries, safety is key. And we’re in no hurry.

Nothing for it but to wait for Shaz to return to Aramoana to pick me up. Wanted to get a weather forecast update as the southerlies I encountered had a permanent feel about them.

Shaz returned to Aramoana about an hour later having received my messages when she had got to Waipawa. Loaded up Secala and back to Waipawa we went to get a weather update.

Turns out the forecast hadn’t really changed much although one forecast predicted southerlies in this area. So back to Aramoana we went to wait out the southerlies. Upon return the southerlies seemed to have disappeared! Relaunched and enjoyed a much easier run past Blackhead Point into Pourangahau Bay. Blackhead Point has a reef that kept me wide before I could safely change course to cross the bay towards Pourangahau. The late start means my destination today is Pourangahau at the southern end of the 14km Pourangahau Beach.

From Blackhead Point I enjoyed a light NE tailwind until a couple of kilometres out of Pourangahau when a howling SW offshore hit me in the face. Dramatic wind shifts, influenced by the topography; is the norm in these parts, it seems. Somehow it’s easier, and in a way welcomed, to have a workout with the finish line in sight. Shaz directed me ashore and within a couple of hundred meters of the beach the wind completely died away.

Landed cleanly on the beach and parked Secala in the sand dunes for the night.
Enjoyed a great paua dinner cooked on the Weber. Thanks Eugene.

Shaz ………….. Brent up early again, just after 5am! Had breakfast and setting up ready to go by 5.34am.

Grabbed photo and said goodbye from the camper van and he headed off for the beach. Beautiful sunrise this morning, looks amazing through the pine trees. Went outside in my nightie (no one else around) to get some photos.

Brent set off for Herbertville around 5.40am, I will meet him there for a cuppa! Will stay here until about 8am then head off. No internet; 1 bar every now and then, not much until you are almost in Waipawa. Decided to get a coffee there not much open so got one at BP.

Lots of messages have come through on my phone, there were 2 from Brent’s inReach. He is returning to Aramoana ……… there must be something wrong! Tried to ring him but no reply so I answered him via email on his inReach. I said that I was on my way back but would be about 45 minutes. As expected it took 45 minutes and he was lying down on the grass when I pulled up and all his gear was unpacked ready to go! He said that when he got around the point near Blackhead there was a head wind which made it very hard work.

Anyway we packed everything away, kayak back onto the camper and set off to get some internet coverage so Brent could get a weather report. I said that we might have to go back to Waipawa to get good coverage, which we did!

Got a crap coffee at cafe, Brent couldn’t even drink his so made his own in the Bialetti! The weather report said that the conditions were improving this afternoon, so we set off for the 45 minute trip back to Aramoana. Brent had a quick bite to eat, dressed and unloaded everything ready for ‘take 2’ for today!

He was back on the water by 1pm, I said that I’d wait here for a hour or two before heading off. He said that he would send me a email by inReach with standard message ‘I’m checking in; everything is okay’ if he was continuing on this time. I set off around 2.15pm trying to get internet along the way to check for updates, but only getting 1 bar most of the way. It just wouldn’t download any information. Getting close to Waipawa again I got 3 bars and so I checked the inReach App, he was now past where he got earlier so I guess he’s OK! Thank goodness for that, I really didn’t want to drive back to Aramoana. In Waipawa I got his message everything OK, so I continued to Porangahau Beach where we will camp for the night.

Brent landed safely on Porangahau beach at 4.49pm, yeah!

Glad to have arrived. Blackhead Point in the background.

Paua for tea tonight thanks to Eugene and his brother, Brent had it thinly sliced with onions and garlic cooked in butter and I made a paua fritter with finely chopped paua. There was nothing black looking about this paua fritter, it was a white one!

07 December, 2019

Pourangahau to Akitio

**Distance 48.2km Time 7.4hrs Average Speed 6.5km/hr**

An earlier dawn start this morning before anyone in the camp has roused. Getting into my normal daily pattern now.

My initial destination today is Herbertville, via Cape Turnagain, for an early lunch and reassess the day. Ultimately Akitio would be a good target for the day if conditions allowed. But first, Cape Turnagain. Rounding this Cape is 3 hours away! With the previous days experience in mind, I told Shaz that my emergency exit will be Whangaehu that lies about half way between Pourangahau and Cape Turnagain.

The Pourangahau surf is small but still managed to cop a couple over the bow for a full drench “wake up call”. Beyond the small shore break the sea was calm and there was a solid covering of high cirrus cloud. A NW is forecast again so intend to stay close to shore.

Consciously kept moving this morning as I wanted to get past the Cape in the best possible conditions. Kept a keen eye on sky over my right shoulder and frequently scanned the sea surface all around. Nothing to worry about as I passed Whangaehu, but definitely on higher alert than normal. Consciously made note of all the escape landing opportunities along the way.

Approaching Whangaehu. White Cliffs and Cape Turnagain in the far distance

Rounded White Cliffs Point to an amazing sight with high continuous limestone cliffs all the way to Cape Turnagain about 4.5km away. What a magnificent “ monster “ of a headland. I was intimidated and awestruck at the same time. Stopped often for photos.

Torn between wanting to linger in these spectacular surroundings and the demand to put this very exposed shoreline behind me. I was so close to the shore that the real Cape eventually arrived after three “false alarms”.

Nearing the Cape with boat anchored off.

Very happy to turn the corner towards Herbetville in perfect conditions. Another memorable, stunning headland safely negotiated and every moment enjoyed.

A light offshore NW headwind ruffled the hitherto smooth sea, during the crossing to Herbertville. A boat came alongside for a chat during his cray pot clearing. He was interested in where I was heading and said there were very few kayakers that came to these parts. Not surprised! (No offer of a crayfish though …….)

As I closed in on Herbertville I saw Shaz driving the shoreline trying to find the best place for me to land. Shaz waved me in to the steep “dumping” golden sand beach and walked 100m over the beach to where Shaz was parked.

Still hoping to get to Akitio today as there is plenty of time left in the day. Within minutes of landing though, a stiff southerly announced itself that got stronger as we sat for a sandwich. Won’t be launching in that! However, like yesterday, there is hope that the southerly will “blow out” within a couple of hours. Mighty relieved this hadn’t arrived while I was heading round the Cape! There’s nowhere to hide around there.
While we watched, the wind veered to more of an offshore NW. It’s about a 3 hour paddle to Akitio with no emergency exits that have vehicle access. After looking and procrastinating; decided to launch and stay very close to the shore.

Typical of what we had experienced so far; the winds frequently changed along the way from a gusty offshore NW, to SW headwinds, then an occasional lighter NE. There was no relaxing in these conditions, especially watchful of the strong NW gusts hurtling down valleys to ensure I didn’t get caught unguarded. A solid lean into these concerted gusts was required to remain stable. Occasionally I had to skirt wide around the outside of reefs before plugging my way back to shore. Once again Shaz guided me into the Akitio shore where this trip would end. Plenty of learnings this trip and some of the most stunning paddled of this adventure.

Shaz ………… OMG, Brent was up at 4.20am, next thing he’s telling me that the gas bottle has ran out so has to change it. Really … its 4.36am! Opening the back door of the van to access the gas bottles right under the bed where I’m trying to sleep, yeah right! Just quietly I’m glad it happened while he was here! Following his breakfast he gave me a good bye kiss and set off! His inReach email came in at 5.36am, so he’s off shore then. He tried to contact me on the VHF, which was miraculously turned on! So got up and answer ‘come in Secala, Shaz Dog here’, however only got muffled call back couldn’t understand any of it! So back to bed for me and try to get some sleep as I didn’t have a good night, bloody cramp twice. Drank plenty of water! Just got comfortable when Daniel messaged from France asking if he’ll get to Castle Point today! Told him that I’m not sure about that as the wind is supposed to be getting up. Fell asleep for a little while then up, showered and had breakfast by 7.40am.

Brent said its a 4 hours paddle to Herbertville, and its a 37 minute drive for me! On the way I thought that I’d stop at the Porangahau shop and see if they had any banana’s. They didn’t, but the lady in the shop said the lady across the road selling fruit and vegetables from her truck may do and she even has eftpos. Sure enough she had some, good day! On the drive from Porangahau to Herbertville you drive past the Longest place name in New Zealand, 85 letters long ‘Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauotamateatruripukakapikimaungahoronukupokaiwhenuakitanatahu’

I continued on to Herbertville arriving a 10am, parked up and checked to see if I could see Brent. There he was in the distance, called him up on the VHF. He landed on the beach at 10.15am, there was a bit of distance between the beach where he landed and where the van was parked.

I put the coffee pot on and waited for Brent to walk up the beach across the creek and up to the van. While he was having his coffee and sandwich the wind picked up, a lot!

This could be a waiting game like yesterday!

Time to relax for a little while and see what happens, the weather report didn’t say anything about the wind! Around 12.30pm conditions seemed to have improve, wind had changed direction. Brent decided to go for it and get to Akitio. He was on the water by 12.44pm. It would be a 3 hour paddle to Akitio.

I drove onto Akitio, 1 hour 15 minute drive on a good road. Drove through Wimbledon, not a tennis court in sight but there was a tavern by the bridge.

On arrival at Akitio the wind had picked up a lot, hope Brent is going OK! After a while I could see him in the distance, it looked like a slow slog for him. I got the camera out again and tried my hand at some photos.

Arriving at Akitio. Cape Turnagain in the far distance.

Brent landed on the Akitio beach near the boat ramp around 3.39pm.

We decided to call it quits now, as the weather is getting much worse. So we pack up and head towards home.

Decided to stay the night at Ferry Reserve near Woodville, what a beautiful spot so peaceful and quiet! Brent even decided to go for a swim in the river.