11 – 15 December, 2018
A reasonably favourable forecast for this week was enough motivation to return northward to complete some unfinished business (North Cape) and make some impression down the East coast, at last, that would start to knock a dent in our lengthy road trip travel times.
It was bloody good to be able to look forward to the possibility of several paddle days unencumbered by marginal surf and weather conditions.
There was no real destination objective in mind for this week as I planned to enjoy some of the spectacular coastline and do some soft bait fishing along the way.
Again, we split the road trip over Monday and Tuesday (10th & 11th). All the way to Pakaraka on Monday to stay at Fredi and Brians lovely country home allowing an early arrival on Tuesday at Hihi Campground to set up our base for this trip.
I wanted to get to Tapotupotu Bay early that afternoon to make use of favourable wind and tide towards Te Huka Bay at the western end of Tom Bowling Bay ……….
THIS TRIP: Tapotupotu Bay to Matauri Bay 5 paddle days
Overall Distance 170.5km Time 30.5 Average Speed 5.6km/hr
Tuesday, 11 December, 2018
Tapotupotu Bay to Tom Bowling Bay
Arrived at beautiful Tapotupotu Bay at 1330 to conditions as forecast. A light SW breeze and low NE swell. Low sets were hitting the beach on an otherwise flat sea. Welcome contrast from west coast conditions.
Secala, laden for a solo overnighter, ploughed through a couple of waves to ensure a wet start to this trip. After the pre-paddle routine and farewell to Shaz, I set off round the point and the tidal assist.
Took a moment to look back at the majestic Cape Reinga (3km astern) with a strong sense of relief and satisfaction that it was now firmly behind me.
Settled into my rhythm and was easily averaging 7.5km/hr. As Hooper Point approached at the east end of Spirit Bay, so did some turbulent water that focussed my attention. After setting up the softbait rig I went in close to the wash and on the first cast got a snapper. Magic!
As I approached Te Huka Bay at the western end of Tom Bowling Bay I figured I had plenty of time to paddle another hour to the eastern end of the beach that would shorten the longer day to Rarawa tomorrow and have a better chance of timing the morning slack water at North Cape (LW 0700hrs) .
From a couple of kms out of Tom Bowling I could see an obvious structure like a hut at the end of the beach. Turned out to be some framework for a shelter.
Camp set to enjoy the sunset. Mug of tea and messaged Shaz on the Inreach.
After spag bog dinner I went for a cast off the rocks and caught a couple of kahawai. As the sun set the first sign of mozzies appeared. Hurridly packed up and got into the tent just in time as I swear, not one, but two million huge mozzies are clinging to the outside of the tent insect mesh. If I went outside now the mozzies would siphon all of my blood in about 5 seconds flat. I’m happily trapped in the tent till morning. Planning on a dawn start tomorrow to catch the slack tide at North Cape.
Shaz …………. Up early and on the road to Hihi Beach Motor camp and set up camp with Brent’s help! Then drive 2.25hrs to Tapotupatu Bay where Brent can start his kayak adventure again. He will be camping over night at Tom Bowling Bay.
I will drive back to Hihi Beach for the night. On the way up we saw a bunch of police at the airstrip up from Waikiki Landing. Only noticed them as I stopped at the top of hill to get cellphone range, only one bar. I moved in quickly as it didn’t look good Brent holding his phone looking in their direction.
As I saw him off at Tapotupatu Bay they turned up there. Talked to one of them said ‘I like your uniform (police shirt, vest, stubbies and work boots). I said ‘my son would approve of his choice’, he laughed and said to damn hot to wear what those guys are wearing (full uniform or overalls).
Tonight there was a evening market in Mangonui, so went in for a look and walk around, then back to camp!
Wednesday, 12 December, 2018
Tom Bowling Bay to Rarawa Beach
An early rise (0430) to be ready for a dawn launch. Mozzies still covered my insect netting but none penetrated the barrier during the night thank god. Muesli, banana and protein shake for breakfast and after putting on the wet paddle gear, covered my remaining exposed skin with repellent.
Was fully packed up and launched through low surf by 0600hrs. Sent message via Inreach to Shaz and off with anticipation to North Cape where I intended to stop and climb up to the lighthouse.
Under the grey gloom of early morning the spectacular Surville cliffs were intimidating and moody. The conditions allowed me to hug the cliffs (within 100m) as there was minimal surf backwash.
Stoked to finally see North Cape emerge and my timing for the low slack water was perfect.
A calm rounding of the Cape and landed on the south side of the tidal isthmus that links Murimotu Island with the mainland.
Attempted to climb to the lighthouse but only got half way up as the bush whacking got too hard and time consuming. I was wary that Secala wasn’t far up the rocky beach on a rising tide.
Re-launched an hour later to a brightening day and light winds. The tide will generally be against me all day but who cares on a great day with no deadlines.
After an uneventful paddle down Great Exhibition Bay I finally made weak VHF contact with Shaz where I thought Rarawa beach was. Shaz couldn’t see me approaching and after a few minutes of confusion realised that I had set my GPS destination for the next beach north. I had another 3km to go. Soon enough Shaz could see me and guided me in. It looked an easy enough surf re-enty however my complacency caught me out as a larger than expected wave rose up behind me before I could set myself. My first re-entry on the East coast and I took an embarrassing dumping. An hour and a half drive back to civilisation at Hihi Camp.
Shaz …………. Spent the night at Hihi Beach camp on my own, bloody noisey tourists! In camper vans with sliding doors, open close on and on then slam the damn thing shut! Then 2.05am the volunteer fire service alarm goes off, seems like a long time at that hour if the morning.
Got up about 7am, spent the morning at camp. Made some sandwiches for Brent, filled the thermos and left for Rarawa beach. Went into Mangonui about midday and had coffee on the waterfront, very nice! Then headed off to pick Brent up at Rarawa beach. So much road works up this way and so many police around this area.
Arrived at beach no sign off Brent anywhere and couldn’t reach him on VHF either. A few tourists around, just walking along the beach! Probably wondering what this women was doing sitting on top of sand dune in her bright red chair, with a VHF radio, cellphone, binoculars, small emergency flashing torch thingy and a cup of coffee. I wasn’t able to see on the inReach tracking where he was, not sure if Brent has turned it on! Anyway I pushed the button that said location and it replied it could take up to 20minutes to 5 days to get a reply! Fortunately for me it was like 10 minutes and he was just up the coast around that corner. He finally got me on VHF, and realised that he had about another 3km to go, so 2pm pick up turned into 3pm! All good, at least he was safe. Which is more than I can say for him coming in! He was doing well, but then miss judged the waves and capsized! Oh well you can’t win them all!
So much for the East Coast ‘being a piece of cake compared to the West Coast’.
Had his lunch and then headed back to Hihi.
Thursday, 13 December, 2018
Rarawa Beach to Maitai Bay
Another good forecast today for the stretch across Rangaunu Bay.
After the return journey to Rarawa beach, an easy launch but still managed to get a drenching through a couple of breaking waves. A much lighter kayak today with all my solo camping gear and extra water removed. Felt strong all the way across the Bay enjoying the company of several jesus christ (walk on water) birds or white faced storm petrels. Approaching Cape Karikari I became increasingly aware of several areas of shoaling and turbulent water to the point, when rounding the Cape, the washing machine effect became quite intimidating. Was much more difficult than North Cape and a salient reminder not to take any “Cape” too lightly.
Relieved to be around this corner and heading for the safety of Maitai Bay. What a beautiful bay. Was tiring over the last hour of this trip realising that I hadn’t hydrated enough during the day.
Shaz directed me to a boat ramp around Maitai Point and the easiest landing I’ve had since leaving New Plymouth.
A shorter 45 minute drive back to Hihi Camp today
Shaz …………. Left early for Rarawa beach so Brent could get a good start to the day. He is heading for Matai Bay, should take about 5 – 5.5 hrs. He launched at 8.25am, got out well, waves looked a little big but manageable!
Stopped at Mangonui on the way back at Waterfront Cafe for coffee and scone, best Cappuccino in the Far North so far! Awesome view across the bay and very relaxing.
Had a little walk around the township, a bit of window shopping, located the Information Centre and got a map for Matai Bay Area. Driving back saw an interesting little shop ‘Flax Bush’, had to stop and have a look. No window shopping here, made a purchase! Brought a lovely top, nice and cool for the summer! Then back to Hihi Beach camp, rest up and do some reading before heading to Matai Bay around 3pm.
Made some sandwiches for Brent, filled the thermos and left for Matai Bay to pick Brent up around 1.30pm, a good 40-45 minute trip plus a couple of stops on the way. So hot, need an ice cream and got fresh water for Brent. What a beautiful bay, some campers have already arrived for there summer break and others look like they has just set up to claim there spot!
Saw Brent come around the point towards Matai Bay, told him to go further around the other side to the boat ramp. Easier to get the kayak up to the ute. Brent arrived safely on the beach today, No big waves to dump him onto the beach, very very calm watered in the bay!
Once we were loaded up we went up to camp ground area and had a late lunch and Brent went for a swim before heading back to Hihi.
Friday, 14 December, 2018
Maitai Bay to Tauranga Bay
Just like the landing, the launch was like being on a lake. A false start however when I realised I had skinned my finger on a rock during the launch. A quick patch-up by the multi-skilled shore crew and I was away again through the “relentless” surf!
Great weather forecast again but aware that the general tidal flow will be against me most of the day.
Just out of Maitai Bay, Knuckle Point, at the north end of Doubtless Bay, had a good surge and back wash to stay clear of. Set my sights straight across Doubtless Bay towards Cone Rock while focussing more on better hydration today. Lost a peanut slab over the side as I was fumbling with gear on deck. Gutted!
While crossing the Doubtless bight a mollymawk repeatedly came skiing in to come close alongside for a nosey. Maybe he scored with my peanut slab and wanted more…..
After 7 hours in the saddle, felt much better today most likely due to better hydration. As I approached Taupo Bay and contacted Shaz I said I would push on to Tauranga Bay which was only about another hours paddle away. Drank nearly 5 litres today averaging 600ml per hour.
Shaz ……………. Up early and left camp for Matai Bay arriving just before 7.30am. Brent set by 7.56am at one of in the calmest conditions ever, ripples rather than waves! He was just sitting there, then he called and asked me to get something to dry his hand with as he was bleeding cut his finger on a shell or something while launching himself! A good cut bleeding like a bugger! Dried it off best as we could and applied gauze and taped tightly to stop bleeding! Then back into the kayak with a little push from me and he was off once again!
Stopped in at Mangonui on way back for breakfast and coffee at the Waterfront Cafe (French toast, bacon and blueberries). Arrived back at camp and have the place to myself, so quiet!
Left at 1pm for Taupo Bay to pick up Brent, he should be arriving about 2.30 – 3pm. Packed the usual lunch, thermos etc. What a beautiful spot Taupo Bay is! Parked beside the only tree along the beach front for a bit of shade, got my chair out, made coffee and relaxed. Brent is taking longer than expected, never mind! People watching is a great past time, local family having lots of fun swimming, couple of German girls next to me smoking, swimming, sunbathing in next to nothing and then talking to family or friends back home on FaceTime! Another family arrived with surf board and paddle boards, old couple swimming with their boggie boards.
When Brent finally made contact he had decided to go on to Tauranga Bay rather than here! Really, after waiting so patiently!!
Packed up and headed for Tauranga Bay, GPS said 33km and 35 minutes to get there! WRONG! Ended up using my phone as GPS stop at the turn off, so ended up turning the wrong way. Wasted a good 15 minutes! By the time I got to Tauranga Bay, Brent was already sitting out in the bay wondering where I was!!
Never mind, all good in the end!
On our way back we decided to go to Mangonui Fish Shop (supposed to be famous) for tea. The most expensive fish and chips I’ve ever had, but nice!
Brent celebrated with a bottle of beer!
A few more campers at Hihi tonight, with morpork talking, tui singing and one cackling “old hen” from the motorhome groups down the way!! That group has made more noise than any of the young folk that having been staying here!
Saturday, 15 December, 2018
Tauranga Bay to Matauri Bay
Packed up at Hihi camp today and only planned the short paddle to Matauri Bay before checking in at Kerikeri for the night and heading home tomorrow. Planned to have a cruisey day fishing among the rocks.
Enjoyed plenty of rock hopping for a change today on a beautiful coastline rather than the recent point to point grind. eg Great Exhibition Bay, Rangaunu Bay.
Trip took two hours longer than it would normally take as I lingered around the rocky coastline littered with reefs and rocks awash to throw a softbait into. No fish today though.
Nice way to finish this northern trip which ranks as the best so far for enjoyable relaxing paddling and satisfying for some progress made.
Shaz ……………… Awake early this morning, can’t sleep on the one day Brent said I could as we weren’t leaving early this morning. Brent already up over at kitchen having his breakfast. Had my shower came back and started packing up, at least all the bedding. All packed up ready to lat 9.05am, going to Mangonui one last time for takeaway coffee! Then we head for Tauranga Bay for the last leg of trip this time. Brent is doing just a short paddle today, Matauri Bay about 3 hours for him although he said he may try a bit of fishing along the way.
What a beautiful drive to Matauri Bay, stopping at Te Ngaere reserve along the way. Driving on to Matauri Bay the views were stunning from on top of hill looking down onto Matauri Bay and across to the Cavalli Islands.
Arriving in the Bay there was a large car park on my right for public us, however the access to/from the beach for Brent to bring his kayak up would be hard in the soft sand. I drove on until I came to the General Store. As I arrived at Matauri Bay the police pulled up behind me, I thought really are they following me around the Far North! But no, there was already an Ambulance in the camp ground, not sure what’s going on here! I went into the General Store outside the campground and asked if there was a boat ramp along the beach, they said yes it’s inside the camp ground. I explained what Brent was doing and could I please get access through the camp to pick him up, yes no problem but that will be $10 please! It took me by surprise a little, but was told they normally charge $20 for a day pass to the camp ground. No worries I paid and parked up under a tree right on the beach front with a picnic table right beside me, perfect! It turned out that a diver had been attacked by a Mako shark over behind Motukawaiti Island. Not life threatening thank goodness. The Fire Service turned up as well just as the Ambulance was leaving, not sure what they were going to do!
I spent the afternoon enjoying Matauri Bay, beautiful scenery and lots of campers arriving, fishing boats & jet skis coming and going, large group of ground people arrive with lots of kayaks and the boom box belting out the music.
Brent arrived about 2.40pm, coming in was easy. We had coffee and Christmas cake before loading up all his gear. Then we headed for Kerikeri for the night of comfort in a motel. We stayed at STAY Kerikeri motel; really nice people own it and they had a swimming pool which Brent made the most of! We had a meal at ‘The Pear Tree’ café down next to the Old Stone Store. Next to the café was ‘Eekie’ Bespoke Art, she works mainly with leather and had just opened up her business there.
