18. Sandy Bay to Wellington

17 & 18 January 2020

Shaz …..

17 Jan ……….Left NP around 4.25pm heading for Te Awaiti. Decided to spend the night at POP property in Greytown arriving about 9.30pm, great spot plenty of room and $8 for the night. 

18 Jan ……….Brent up early for his usual morning routine before kayaking; tea, toast with peanut butter, followed by coffee and muesli with banana.  

On the road by 6.35am heading for Sandy Bay near Te Awaiti, to continue Secala’s adventure. Once again along the gravel road (judder bar) towards Tora! 

Upon arrival conditions didn’t look to good, a bit choppy out there! Brent went out to do his recon of the situation! Not good, oh dear!

After a while we decided to go to Te Awaiti camp and park up. Along the road we could see something was going on up ahead, as there were cars and campers everywhere! As we got closer we saw a young guy walking along the road and he said that it was a music festival. Who knew in the middle of nowhere! Turns out to be Tora Bombora festival weekend.

As we got nearer we were stopped by local security (local guy collecting tickets) and asked if we were here for the festival, we said know that we were going onto the camp ground up the road. He explained about the festival, it was a group of family and friends that organise this festival around 600 people here! It goes for 2 nights until around midnight, know one to annoy here and no noise control! It was tent city, camper vans and motorhomes everywhere!

He said that if we wanted to come back and check it out later he’d let us in for free as we didn’t seem like the sort of people that would cause and trouble! We drove on and pulled over to get a couple of photos, a local was out for his morning run and said that he didn’t even know anything about it! Funny! 

Drove onto Te Awaiti camp ground not many people here this time! Wouldn’t you know it, it starts to rain bugger! Doesn’t look like there will be much kayaking going on this trip, so hopefully we’ll be home tomorrow in time for our daughter birthday dinner!


24 – 26 January, 2020

Our 2nd attempt to launch from Sandy Bay and round Cape Palliser. We have three days at our disposal this time. Last weekend we travelled to Sandy Bay to find the conditions different to forecast and very marginal on the only possible paddle day that weekend. Wasn’t happy to take the risk around Palliser then; however conditions looked good this time for a possible push as far as Wellington.

THIS TRIP: Sandy Bay to Wellington – 3 paddle days

Overall Distance: 84.4km Time: 14.75hrs Ave Speed: 5.7km/hr


Friday, 24 January, 2020

Sandy Bay to Ngawi

Distance 34.9km Time 5.25hrs Ave Speed 6.6km/hr

Arrived early at Sandy Bay from Eketahuna Campground where we stayed the night. This time we were met by calm conditions but a bit more of an easterly swell running over the reef and entrance to Sandy Bay. Was planning to launch from the more exposed beach outside of the protected Sandy Bay boat habour but changed my mind when I saw sets regularly breaking over the nearby protective reefs. I still had to patiently time my sprint through the boat harbour gap in the reef between the swell sets. No boats launching so far this morning. On the water by just after 0800 and keenly anticipating a rounding of Cape Palliser today. Was confident enough in todays forecast not to load up my solo overnight gear. White Rock could be a fall back landing if needed. Or return to Tora. Was also good for the timing of the westerly ebb flow around the Cape when I would arrive there in about 4 hours.

Manurewa Point just south of Sandy Bay launch
Manurewa Point
Tora Farm Settlement

Tora Farm …… about an hours paddle from Sandy Bay

Cray fisherman off Te Kaukau Point
White Rock (center) and its offshore rocky extension (left)

Would have very much liked a closer look and camp at White Rock. Maybe another day.

Cod Rocks with Cape Palliser in the distance

Excited to see Palliser lighthouse over Cod Rocks. Perfect conditions to enjoy such big country.

Approaching Cape Palliser. Access steps just to the right.

Holy crap!! Shaz called up on VHF from the lighthouse at the top of a looong set of steps. Feeling pretty chuffed rounding this Cape. One of the major milestones of the North Island.

Headed straight for Te Kawakawa Rocks, not sure if I’ll find a short cut gap through the reef. I see Shaz driving our camper back along the coast road towards Ngawi. Plenty of driving for her today.

Approaching Te Kawakawa Rocks. Ngawi just around the corner.

Against my better judgment I did cut through Te Kawakawa Rocks. The easterly surge offered up a little adrenalin swerving through the shoals to the lee side of reef.

Approaching Ngawi. Shaz and the camper (center right)
Ngawi beach

Ngawi turned out to be closer around Te Kawakawa Point than I thought. It just suddenly appeared! A pleasant change to the norm where destinations tend to be further away that expected. Great end of paddle coming into beautiful Ngawi.


Shaz …….

Friday 24 January 2020

Up early and headed off for Te Awaiti so Brent can get an early start. Arrived around 7.30am and conditions look good at this stage! Brent was all ready and on the water by 8.11am. 

Access to Sandy Bay
Launching at Sandy Bay

I cleaned up the dishes from breakfast and headed down the road and parked up watching Brent until he disappeared out of my sight! Then I headed off for Martinborough to get some bananas! Arrived in Martinborough around 10.15am, got the bananas and had a coffee at one of the many cafes. Everyone was very busy this morning as there was an American car rally. Finished my coffee and headed to Ngawi and Cape Palliser.

 I drove onto Cape Palliser to see if I could make contact with Brent on the VHF. On an impulse I decided to walk up to the lighthouse! OMG didn’t look so far until you climb the 252 steps up! Great views, so worth it even know I paid the price with back playing up again. 

View from Palliser Lighthouse

Could see Brent getting closer to the Cape, so contacted him on the VHF and told him where I was! I think he was surprised and pleased at the same time! Got some nice photos along the coast and Brent in the background. Brent said that he would be another 30 minutes before getting into Ngwai, so go ahead and find a place to stay the night! 

Once back down the steps, I drove back to Ngwai and found a spot right on the beach!

Sunset at Ngawi Beach. Profile of the South Island in the distance.

Saturday, 25 January, 2020

Ngawi to Te Humenga Point

Distance 9.1km Time 1.3hrs Ave Speed 7.0km/hr

Had intended to do this small section yesterday but by the time we had spread out in the camper and had lunch at the Ngawi campground we didn’t feel like packing up or giving up our great parking spot. Although Palliser Bay is forecast to be calm tomorrow, there are strong northerlies due in Wellington. Decided to have a lazy day today and do this small section in preparation for the push for Wellington tomorrow, when the northerlies are forecast to be not as strong and arrive later in the day. Departing from Te Humenga Point instead of Ngawi saves about an hour on the paddle across Palliser Bay.

No rush this morning. Cooked breakfast and casual launch into a calm Bay.

Through the rocks off Ngawi
Te Humenga Point, one hours paddle away

While Shaz and I were trying to co-ordinate a landing spot on the VHF, a cray boat over hearing us, cruised up to me and offered up some landing suggestions. Always keen on local knowledge, I asked about the likely conditions in the middle of the Bay. When they asked where I had come from and what I intended to do, they simply shook their heads while offering up some expletives under their breath. Mostly referring to my sanity.

Their stories supported others I had heard of the area. “You’re exposed out there from every direction!”. “If a NW hits you through Windy Point, you’re f………..toast”. “You’d be crazy to leave shore in any kind of northerly in the Bay”.

After the advice and a chat, the skipper handed over a couple of crays. Probably thinking it could be my last supper!! Awesome.

Friendly cray boat offered up a couple of crays!

Shaz found a good landing spot with easy beach access just round the corner from Te Humenga Point.

Our access to the beach. Turakirae Head in the distance. My first waypoint tomorrow.

Spent the rest of the day having a look around the area including climbing up Palliser Lighthouse, checking out the seal colony and getting some paua off Ngawi. Only needed to be 20m off the beach in chest deep water to get a good feed.

252 steps up to Palliser Lighthouse.
View east towards Cod Rocks
West towards Te Kawakawa Point in the distance
Cray boat launching Ngawi style
Our roadside camp. Te Humenga Point behind.

The fisherman off the “Joker” saw us on the roadside as he drove past and stopped for a another chat. Intrigued by what I was doing and my intended paddle across the Bay. Wished me luck and offered to come pick me up if I found it too tough!

Enjoyed a great dinner of paua and crayfish, before setting Secala up for tomorrows pre-dawn launch. I was planning on a 0430 launch (an hour before first light) to get across the Bay in the best conditions ……….; and into Wellington well before the predicted northerly.

All set for an early launch. Hope conditions are the same in the morning.

Shaz …….

Saturday 25 January 2020

A little sleep in today, weather report says wind strong around into Wellington. Had a cooked breakfast (made by Brent) and a nice coffee. Then he headed off down the coast about an hours paddle from Ngawi, where we camped last night.

Launching at Ngawi

He set off and I drove down the road to see where he could come ashore. He wanted me to check out Te Humenga Point. Found a spot opposite Palliser Bay Station where boats obviously Launch from. Looked a good spot to me! So I turned around, drove back up the road and saw Brent and called him on VHF radio! Told him where I thought was a good idea he said he’d get back to me! As I was watching him I saw a boat pull up beside him and they were talking for a while! Once they left he called on the cellphone and said they told him I could go down to that point through the gate no problem! So I headed down the road turned in the gate an drove down almost to the end but stopped before the turning area as it was just soft sand! There was no way I was driving on that and getting stuck, so made the decision to back out the long drive as I couldn’t turn around! Hoping the whole way that know one was going to come in behind me, thankfully they didn’t! Called Brent and told him, he said to go on where I have suggested earlier. 

Brent landed on the beach avoiding the rocks! Local fishing man was just about to launch his boat straight off the beach. Brent offered to help him and asked if we would like a crayfish as he was going to check his pots. Brent said thanks but the fisherman on the boat I saw him talking too gave him 2 crayfish, yummy! He backed his 4wheel motorbike and hooked the boat and away he went! Another family arrived and were going diving for paua, when he came in he said that it wasn’t a good spot for paua. 

Brent came in and parked up thinking about what we were going to do for the day. Had a cup of tea then decided to pack up all the gear, then went for a drive towards Ngwai and see if we could find a good spot for paua. The area that we through we could go in we couldn’t access. We drove on towards Cape Palliser stopping at the seal colony. 

Seal colony near Cape Palliser

We parked up and went to have a look before heading back to Ngwai as Brent wants to catch the low tide as he was going diving for paua. 

We got to Ngwai and Brent went straight of the beach in front of the camping area. While he went diving, I made some scones for our late lunch. While I was doing this some guys turned up and were getting ready to go spare fishing and diving for paua. Behind their Ute they were towing trailer with a 4 wheel motorbike on it! On top of the bike tied on the front was two deer heads, one was a 10 spike and the other was a 11 spike. Then the Ministry of Fisheries turned up and checked peoples catch for the day.

Once Brent got his 10 paua, he came back and had some lunch. Then he got the paua ready and put into the fridge.

Once he got changed we headed back towards Cape Palliser as Brent wants to walk up to the lighthouse. I waited in the camper while Brent went up as I wasn’t going to do that again, once was enough for me!

From there we went back to our camp site for the night opposite Palliser Bay Station. 

Roadside camp near Te Humenga Point

Set up camp and got our dinner ready, Brent cooked the crayfish on the BBQ and I cooked some corn and veges a glass of wine! 

It is a beautiful evening and got some awesome photos!

Calm evening in Palliser Bay
Ready for early launch tomorrow

Sunday, 26 January, 2020

Te Humenga Point to Wellington

Distance 40.4km Time 8.05hrs Ave Speed 5.0km/hr

My original planning for Palliser Bay was to follow the shoreline and be prepared for an overnight camp at Corner Creek (NW corner of Palliser Bay) if necessary. Crossing the Bay from Te Humenga Point takes you 12km from land in every direction. The furthest I have been offshore on this adventure. Conditions needed to be perfect.

The forecasts from every source were consistent. Calm in the Bay all day with a northerly rising to 20kt in Wellington later in the afternoon. With an early start I was planning to be in Wellington well before then. Crossing the Bay would take 4 hours, then I will have the safety of the shore again.

Set myself for an 0330 rise but sleep was elusive. The open skylight in the camper van was rattling on its hinges in the wind during the night. It’s meant to be calm! Not encouraging. Decided then not to risk a launch until first light so that I could get a better handle on conditions.

Eventually got up when there seemed no point in lying in bed any more. After a quick brekkie, I fully preparing under headlamp and waited for first light. Could make out the sillouette of Turakirae Head in the distance. There is a light easterly rolling down off the hills behind. Eased Secala into a the flat Bay with the breeze behind me.

Sunrise revealed a beautifully calm Bay. With the light tail wind I was making good time towards Turakirae Head. Within an hour of the Head a strong current pushed me into the Bay; and then a stronger counter-current thrust me seaward as I approached the rocks off the Head.

Approaching Turakirae Head

Once across the Bay, the tidal flow will be in my favour around the Wellington entrance. My aim is to get across the harbour to Owhiro Bay today.

Rocks off Turakirae Head. Always great paddling in close if you can!
Baring Head behind the rocks off Turakirae Head.
Approaching Baring Head. A northerly starts to make its presence felt!

After a perfect trip across Palliser Bay a northerly breeze picks up towards Baring Head. White caps can be seen in the distance through the harbour entrance. Rounded Baring Head close in through the rocks and came ashore so I could txt Shaz to say I would come land somewhere across the harbour entrance, instead of going to Owhiro Bay.

Landed near Baring Head

Battled to Pencarrow Head over the next 1.5hrs as the northerly increased to 20kts. Tucked into the shore for a bit of relief before landing again in the lee of Pencarrow to txt Shaz again. Aiming to land across the harbour at Reef Bay.

Ashore in the lee of Pencarrow. Baring Head in the distance.
Approaching Pencarrow

Relaunched and weaved through the rocks around Pencarrow and made some ground to windward into the harbour. Saw the Interislander ferry approaching Wellington harbour so continued following the shoreline until it passed before taking on the channel. Paddling at a 45 degree angle upwind of my destination and constantly checking a transit bearing to ensure I wasn’t loosing too much ground out the harbour. A good amount of chop through the channel with wind against tide conditions. Once inside Barrett Reef the chop eased right off and could make straight for Reef Bay. I could make out the reception party on the beach. Landed to a great reception by Dale (brother), Judy, Jono and Souvaly. Our biggest reception on the trip so far.


Shaz …….

Sunday 26 January 2020

Brent was up early, very early (around 4.30am) to make the most of the good conditions and who knows what waits for him around the corner into Wellington. 

I was woken up around 7am when a fisherman turned up to launch his boat. Oh well never mind, time to get moving anyway! 

I headed off for Owhiro Bay, Wellington, its a 2 hour drive! Programmed my GPS on phone and off I went, nice day and not to much traffic on the road. As I arrived at Owhiro bay I checked inReach to see where Brent was and it looks like he has come ashore over the other side somewhere near Baring Head. Then he texted to say go to Dale’s (Brent’s brother) place and to track him on inReach, as he doesn’t think he will make it to Owhiro Bay as the wind is strong. I went to Dale and Judy’s had a coffee, before we went for a walk around the bay from Seatoun to see if we could see him. He then texted again to say he was going to try and cross the harbour to Palmer Bay or Reef Bay. 

We walked back to Dale and Judy’s place, and I followed them to Palmer Bay. The parking wasn’t that easy for a big camper van, but managed! The beach access was very rocky and not suitable for Brent to come in here. We suggested that he come in at Eve Bay not so rocky and a pebbly beach however! Our nephew Jonathon and his family turned up to see Brent come in also. So good having family seeing Brent coming in, special for him to see that people care about what he’s doing!

In the distance we could see him coming across the harbour, the wind is strong it must be such a battle for him. 

He landed on the beach at 1.48pm, with the biggest cheer from his supporters on the beach! 

After catching up and taking photos, then packing the kayak and gear away we headed home to Taranaki.


17. Akitio to Sandy Bay

26 December – 01 January, 2020

The Christmas break has come around again. Last year we based ourselves at Tutukaka campground in a tent. This year we have the luxury of our new campervan.

In contrast to last year, the weather forecasts in this next neck of the woods are highly variable, so paddle time could be limited. Not to worry …….. this is a terrific part of the country to relax and explore.

THIS TRIP: Akitio to Sandy Bay – 4 paddle days

Overall Distance: 134.0km Time: 21.9hrs Ave Speed: 6.1km/hr


Thursday, 26 December, 2019

Akitio to Mataikona

Distance 25.9km Time 3.6 hours Average Speed 7.2km/hr

Boxing Day and not fully energised to get on the road from New Plymouth even though todays forecast in the Wairarapa is the best for a few days. Tomorrow afternoon winds at Castle Point are forecast to ramp up to 25+kts from the NW (offshore).

Arrived at Akitio just after 1500hrs meaning a paddle start at around 1600hrs. Too late to get to Castle Point (6 hours away) today. Decided to get on the water and get as far as I can, then find a beach to camp out on, leaving only about a couple of hours paddle to Castle Point tomorrow before the predicted offshore winds kick in. The most likely target today is the Mataikona area and find a good landing.

The conditions are perfect at Akitio with the NE following breeze true to forecast. An easy launch in the lee of the adjoining reef yet still managed a wet start as the laden Secala nosed through the small surf. Swung around the reef and Akitio campground, where Shaz would be staying tonight, and set to hug the shoreline towards Owahanga. The distinctive Castle Rock is now easily made out in the distance, for the first time.

Even with a favourable breeze, I was conscious of the limited hours left in the day, so kept my pace up to ensure I gave myself enough time to find and set up a camp in daylight. With sunset at 2050hrs, I set a paddle deadline of about 2000hrs. This should easily get me to Mataikona, maybe a bit further.

This section of coast consisted completely of rolling hill pasture. Sheep and beef country. Passing close by Owahanga noticed the easterly swell picking up to 2m and by the time I reached Mataikona there was a good surge crashing over the rocky shoreline.

Houses at Mataikona ahead. Rocks (foreground) offer some shoreline protection just north of Mataikona River.
Having a closer look at Mataikona

Preferring to avoid a rocky landing in these conditions, I turned to paddle back for a look at the beach just north of the river that has a reef offering some protection from the swell. Saw a much easier and softer beach landing here; and the added bonus of being pretty remote.

Coming into Mataikona beach

Easy landing and set up camp. Glad to have packed some storm tent pegs for pitching the tent on sand.

Mataikona beach. Castle Rock faintly visible in the distance.
The reef offering protection

Sat on the beach with a tasty dehydrated chicken tikka masala and coffee watching the surf in the fading light. Perfect!

Spark is offering one bar reception here, so caught up with Shaz and checked tomorrow’s forecast. Light N turning strong NW in the afternoon. Perfect! A casual breakfast and decamp before an easy 2 hour paddle to Castle Point in the morning. Shaz would take longer to drive from Akitio than I would take to paddle to Castle Point.  


Shaz ………..

26 December 2019 (Boxing Day)

On the road again today heading for Akitio. Left late around 10am, late night last night (Christmas Day) to much boozing with the boys!

Arrived at Akitio at 3.15 pm, Brent a little annoyed that he didn’t go to bed earlier last night! But hey it was Christmas!! 

The weather is going to turn bad tomorrow, so wants to get on the water today if he can. After assessing the situation he decides to go for it and stay over night on a beach somewhere along the coast. So I help him get stuff ready, unload the camper and he loaded up the kayak with all his overnight gear while I got some food ready for him. He was all sorted and on the water by 4.12pm! 

Ready to launch at Akitio

Brent told me to stay the night here in Akitio at the campground which I have done $18 for the night on a non powered site. Campsite right next to the beach, watched Brent until he disappear down the coast line. 

Akitio campground

Friday, 27 December, 2019

Mataikona to Castle Point

Woke at my usual 0430. Slept well in the tent. No doubt catching up from last night. “In no rush this morning” I told myself, so rolled over and feigned sleep. At 0500 the tent started flapping which I tried to ignore. Moments later; more intent flapping. Bugger!

Got up to see and feel a steady offshore breeze out through Mataikona valley. Winds possibly ahead of schedule. Decided to pack up and get on the water asap without breakfast. So much for the casual start! One thing for sure around here ……. Wairarapa (esp Castle Point) + strong offshore wind = stay off the water

Mataikona sunrise

Surf was easy but managed to perfectly time a full frontal as Secala nosed through the low shore break.

Familiar offshore wind gusts through Mataikona Valley but OK. When away from the influence of the valleys, a northerly wind steadily increased, as I tried to hug the shore as best I could.

Castle Point with the prominent Castle Rock behind

Aimed for the lee of Castle Point once I figured I had given enough respect to the offshore tending wind through Castle Point bay.

Heading for the lee of the Point

Under the lee of Castle Point everything flattened out. Very cool arriving right under one of NZ’s iconic land marks. The landing was as smooth as a lake.
NW winds steadily picked up during the morning though, to well over 30kts. Scary stuff. Glad my instincts kicked in to get on the water early at Mataikona.

Had to drag the laden Secala 100m or so along the beach to where we hoped to park the camper for a night or two. A fisherman called out from his fishing boat parked on the beach (see above) offering a ride on his ute. Another car driving along the sandy isthmus and stopped for a chat. A lot of interested and interesting people out there.

View of the Gap and Castle Point from Castle Rock

Paddling is out tomorrow according to the forecast.

A southerly rolling in the following day

27 December 2019

Late waking up this morning, so late leaving for Castle Point oops! Left Akitio at 7.39am and arrived at Castlepoint at 10.30am. 

Brent was waiting for me! He had texted me but couldn’t read as I was driving, to say  that the freedom camping parks had almost all gone! There was a couple of parks left, but not big enough for the van to fit. I just waited patiently and sure enough one came up! The turn over for parks here is amazing, coming and going all day! Brent has left his gear outside just in front of the camper, as to windy to put up top. Made a cup of tea and chilled for a bit, then went for a walk to the store about 10 – 15 minutes away and got some eggs and crackers. The store was so busy with people ordering takeaways and dining in! The sea is very choppy, not good for Brent at all! Brent went for a long walk and I stayed with his gear being outside! Plenty of people looking for a park for the night, self contained vehicles only……. yeah right! They have the sticker on them, but I doubt it very much that they are! The wind is so bad that the sand is swirly around going everywhere, including the van! Thank god we brought a Dyson vacuum cleaner. I cooked stir fry pork and rice for dinner, in our nice dry camper van! All the others were standing outside behind their vans cooking, not a pleasant time I’m sure! Couldn’t watch the news tonight as the satellite dish couldn’t pick up a signal, so plenty of reading was done before bed time. An amazing sunset tonight, everyone one was taking photos! I tried using my camera, still haven’t mastered the technique of using it probably! I should have taken some on my cellphone also, but didn’t. 

Castle Rock under the sunset.

Shaz ………

28 December 2019

Slow start to the day; windy and raining most of the night. Rather boring really as not much to do here and parks to narrow to have awning out to have the door open. The weather gradually got better as the day went on! By late afternoon the conditions have improve considerably, hopefully Brent will get on the water tomorrow! 

View from the camper van

Heading to Flat Point, looking forward to seeing Karen and Lance! Over the years I have heard so much about their place there! 

Sunset not so good tonight, but the light house looked amazing. Tried the camera again without success, got one on cellphone which was ok!


Sunday, 29 December, 2019

Castle Point to Flat Point

Distance 48.2km Time 7.9 hours Average Speed 6.1km/hr

Up at 0400 for an early start. Drybags prepared for potential solo overnighter. Usual morning breakfast routine and weather check. One weather forecast had now changed to southerly 15-20kts. Based on recent experiences, that could mean anything from 15-30kts. Gun shy now. Wanted to wait for daylight so I could have a look at the conditions. At sunrise a moderate NW offshore was blowing out the bay. This was not forecast but could be just a land breeze?
Decided to wait for a couple of hours to see how things shaped up and if the predicted SW would kick in. By 0900 the southerly had arrived but was light. Conditions were too good to squander. Was prepared to come ashore along the way, if necessary, to wait out a southerly, or even camp the night. Planned with Shaz to meet her at Riversdale (4 hour paddle) to reassess plans …….. if I get there!

Been keen on getting to Flat Point for some time now as Shaz’s previous employers Karen and Lance have a house there, and since they left New Plymouth for Masterton some years ago, we have not seen them. There has been an open invitation to visit them since they left. Getting to them by kayak is probably not how they expected visitors to arrive!

Loaded Secala up and launched under the lighthouse at 1000hrs.
Rounded the magnificent Point and along the cliffs with minimal buffeting off the cliffs. Chatted with a crayfisherman who asked where I was off to. A little surprised that I was going so far, and with a “Good onya”; wished me luck.

Heading south down the outside of Castle Point

Set a steady pace and headed around Castle Rock for shoreline of Christmas Bay.

Approaching the gap and Castle Rock

Followed typical Wairarapa hilly dry stock pasture to Riversdale. Occasional farm houses. Plenty of places to pull into a remote beach if necessary. Paying the price now for applying ordinary sunblock earlier this morning rather than my usual Island Tribe. This was now running into the corner of my eyes with sweat. The southerly 8-10kts has subsided and started backing to the East as I approached Riversdale providing evidence maybe, that the forecasted stronger southerly would not eventuate. I was about 30 minutes behind my estimated 4 hours to Riversdale now.

Typical of the reefs down this section of coast
Riversdale Beach ahead. Half way to Flat Rock. Uruti Point on far left.

At Riversdale chatted with Shaz by VHF to say I would continue on to Flat Point and be there in about 3.5 hours ……….. and reminded her to put a beer in the fridge. By Uruti Point the wind had backed further to a NE assist which eased the paddling effort. The next prominent landmark was Uruti Point that looked particularly messy as I got closer. Swell now from the NE & SE and the wind over the shoals and reef edge made it difficult to size up a good track through the turbulence. If in doubt, stay out; is the mantra. Still got surprised by some peaking reef breaks justifying the decision to stay further out. Latched on to a line of cray pots that, as usual, provided a good guide on the right line to take around the reef.

There were many isolated reefs between Uruti Point and Flat Point that, in isolation, were easy enough to negotiate. Had to be watchful of the rocks that still lurked just under the surface.

Whenever paddling, particularly close in to shore, its often a challenge trying to make out your destination against distant points of land. On this occasion I had three points fairly close to each other to choose from. Only one of these points, the closest one, had a low lying shoreline. Figuring that Flat Point was named for a reason, I was a little confused when it became clear that this one wasn’t my destination. The next two headlands were steep to the waters edge. All became clear as I rounded these points and the very low lying Flat Point was finally exposed.

At last …….. Flat Point exposed ……….. (behind the reef in the foreground)

Approaching Flat Point and still a couple of kilometres away, I saw a fishing boat arrive back at the beach and get recovered by a tractor. This gave me a lead on where to land and where the nearest vehicle access would be. Shaz had just arrived as I did, but could not get close to the beach with the van.

The shore is protected by a large reef that extends out and around the entire point. Found what I thought the best lead into the beach and cruised in through low surf. Pleased to have made it this far after a dubious start to the day.

Moments later Lance cruised onto the beach in his 4WD with Shaz, a big smile and a cold beer. What a welcome!

Flat Point looking north
Secala secluded in the dunes with the blessing of this bach owner
A couple of cray fisherman launched in the lee of the reef.
Typical sight along the beaches in this area

Local tips:
The reef offers shore break protection at high tide up to a 2m swell.
Even the cray fishermen don’t go out in the bay in a NW.
Can easily paddle through channel between reef and Point during most tides (esp. low) during swells less than 2m.


Shaz ………

29 December 2019

Slept in this morning, wind still up! Brent decided to give it a go and loaded up the kayak with overnight gear just in case! 

He was on the water by 9.50am from Castlepoint heading for Flat Point wind permitting, but to check in at Riversdale first.

Brent asked me to get some photos from the cliffs! I got as far as the lighthouse and saw him coming around the corner, there was no way that I was going to make it to the cliffs in time for photos. 

Took what I could and then ran down the walkway to the bottom, across the sand up to where the camper was parked thinking that I could get a photo of him coming across past the inlet, but no he was to fast ……… missed him! Took a couple of photos, close up of the lighthouse also! 

Cleaned up and sorted before leaving the car park, drove down to the beach front and parked up there for half and hour ………. so peaceful! 

Left Castlepoint for Riversdale a 49 minute drive. Arrived at Riversdale around 12.30pm and parked up near a tree for a little bit of shade! 

Riversdale Beach

Just in front of me on the other side of the fence is a Caravan that sells coffee (Alter Eco Coffee). The coffee was great and they had food available also (GF, Dairy free, vegan) raw organic food.

OMG, if you don’t have a 4 wheel motorbike here at Riversdale you don’t fit in ……. they’re everywhere! 

Around 2.30pm Brent contacted me on VHF to say he was going to go onto Flat Point. Great, so I headed off to Masterton to empty tanks, fill water tank, get diesel and top up supplies. Brent messaged me to say that he would be at Flat Point by 5.30pm, I replied to say that I didn’t think I would be there by then as its a 1 hour drive from Masterton to Flat Point. Great road until you hit the gravel road, slows you down a bit! Amazing views from the top of the hills above looking down over towards Flat Point. 

Arrived at Karen and Lance Scott’s at 5.50pm, then had to find Brent who was on the beach somewhere! There was no direct assess to the beach from the road. Lance and I drove down to the beach in his 4 wheel drive truck, through a locked gate to the beach. Brent was just where Lance thought he would be unloading his gear! 

Lance with that all important cold beer

Good old Lance had a couple of cold one’s (beer’s) in a little chiller bag for Brent! We loaded all his gear into the back of Lance’s truck! Lance went and asked the guy who lives near the beach if Brent could leave his kayak by his place! Not problem then drove back up the beach onto their beach house. There are always people who want to know what Brent is doing, and listen with great interest!

It was so nice seeing everyone again Karen, Lance, their daughter Tracey, her husband and children, also Karen and Lance’s mum’s! 

So nice sitting out on the deck having a drink with them all and catching up, followed by a lovely steak dinner. Early night for everyone, it’s been a long day! 

30 December 2019

Slept in this morning, as conditions not good today for kayaking. So nice for a change, lovely being here at Karen and Lance’s place at Flat Point. Nice having a shower in their house as there’s a little bit more room to move!

While Brent went for a walk, I had a little catch up with Karen, so nice. After a coffee and something to eat I decided to go for a walk along the beach myself. Once on the beach I turned to my right to walk along the beach but it soon become apparent this wasn’t a good idea I was walking into a strong southerly wind! 

Looking south from Flat Point

Turned around and walked down the beach towards the spot where Brent came in yesterday! Nice beach – tide starting to go out, the reef becoming more visible now! It’s so quiet and peaceful walking along here, no noise what so ever just the waves breaking against the reef and beach. Walking along I saw a golf ball wedged between to rocks, Lance was saying that there used to be a 9 hole golf coarse between their place and the beach. 

Firmly lodged in the rocks

Walking along the road back to the house I caught up with Karen, Lance and their friends who had been down further along the beach. 

We all went inside for a cup of tea, Karen had baked some scones for her visitors and was now making corn fritters for a late lunch around 2.15pm. Later on Brent went on the 4 wheel motorbike with Lance down to the beach as he was going to dive for paua with Glen. 

Returning from a paua dive

Karen and I went for a nice long walk along the beach down to where the boys were diving for paua. The paua over here are huge compared to Taranaki! 

Yum!

When the guys got back Brent showed me his hand that he had cut, luckily it didn’t go to deep!

Tonight Karen had cooked a lovely glazed ham with roasted vegetables and peas! So nice of them to invite us for dinner again, such a yummy meal! One thing about staying hear the beach you have early nights!

31 December 2019

Up around 7.30am this morning and Brent had already gone for a walk to check out the weather conditions. Looking out the window it still appears to be windy, bugger! I know he will be a little frustrated, but at the same time he won’t put himself in danger!

Made a coffee and toast, sat in the peace and quiet enjoying my breakfast!

Brent returned from his walk, conditions still the same and not likely to get out today! He said that he saw a seal down on the beach, I asked where but he said it had gone now! Decided to go for a walk myself and took my camera with me! Walking along the beach is so peaceful no one around for miles! Flat Point there is no tourists, no noisey 4 wheel motorbikes going up and down the beach, enough space between beach houses that you don’t annoy each other. 

Talking to Karen and Lance there is a real feel of community spirit here, everyone gets together for special occasions! 

Walking along the beach taking photos of the waves crashing against the rocks, beautiful morning!

As I was walking I saw something move on the beach it was a seal lying in the sun! If he hadn’t moved his head I’m not sure that I would have realised that it was a seal! I took a few photos of him without getting to close! He didn’t move, but was keeping an eye on me the whole time moving his head just watching! 

I carried on down the beach and then back up the metal track and climbed over the fence, and back to the camper van. Brent looks like he has gone for another walk somewhere! 

Betty and Marion saw me and asked if I’d like a cup of tea or coffee as everyone else had gone for a walk. Just lovely ladies, talked about their trips here to Flat Point over the years with Karen and Lance and how much they love coming here! 

Went back to the van and Brent was back, I made some scones for lunch and just relaxed outside with the awning up! 

Karen, Lance and all the family went down to the beach so the kids could go swimming! Great day for it, the kids had a ball! 

Brent went off with a bag in hand to pick up rubbish on the beach, however this is one of the cleanest beaches I’ve ever seen! Had another walk myself and came across the family at the beach, Karen decide to walk back with me. 

Brent got all his gear ready and took it down to his kayak on Lance’s 4 wheel motorbike ready for the morning as the weather is going to be good for some of the day. 

With the gear to load up Secala

Tonight we had another lovely meal with the Scott’s family, not sure if anyone stayed up until midnight to see the New Year in or not! Glen made some yummy Paua chips!

HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE FOR 2020

Glen’s Paua Chips: Slice paua into strips and cover with ‘FogDog’ Premium Gluten Free shake and bake coating mix, then fry in hot oil until golden careful not to overcook.


Tuesday, 01 January, 2020

Flat Point to Sandy Bay

Distance 46.2km Time 8.3 hours Average Speed 5.6km/hr

Karen and Lance have been great hosts for the last 3 nights as we parked our camper outside their house at Flat Point, and a great place for some RnR. The remote beaches offer novelties of big paua shells scattered along the tidal zone and the occasional seal lazing on the beach. The birdlife along the shoreline is prolific with herons, terns, oyster catchers, shearwaters offering Shaz plenty of photographic practice. And the very friendly locals ……. particularly one local who offered more to the naked eye than necessary from her front window. (Found out later that the couple are naturalists)

Went snorklling for paua with Glen, in waist deep water and grabbed a crayfish from amongst the weed (which was returned as it was barely legal). What a treat getting some decent sized paua for a change.

Intending on an early start, I pre-packed Secala down at the dunes yesterday evening, thanking the bach owner as they were getting started with a few NY’s eve bevies.

Secala loaded up the evening before; ready for an early launch

Up at 0400 and keen to get going. Brekkie down, waiting now for first light (5am) to walk down to the dunes and paddle the channel between the reef and point. The forecasts are variable today; surprise, surprise. Some saying 10kt Sly turning NW 10-15 in the afternoon. Others say light Nly tending Ely. Either way, too good to miss. As is the norm for this section of coast, I am loaded up and fully prepared to pull in somewhere if needed. The next few days forecast are not good so want to get the most out of today. 
At the beach there is a light northerly and the tide is mostly out. Easy launch and paddle through the wide channel inside the reef.

Early (pre-sunrise) launch. NE breeze.

Sunrise as I entered the bay towards Honeycomb Rock. As 0630 rolled by I tried to raise Maritime Radio on Ch 67; then 16 to give a TR (trip report). This section of coastline has no cellular coverage at all, so Shaz will not be able to keep track of me most of the day. No response initially from Maritime Radio. Thinking it was a bit too early for them, especially on NY day, I continued paddling. A short while later though, MR called back on 67. After Happy NY’s exchanged, I gave Tora as my destination with an ETA at about 1500hrs and suggested that I may not be in range to close out my TR with my handheld VHF down Tora way.
As agreed with Shaz I sent frequent inReach OK messages that she could get as she passed through possible areas of cell coverage on her road trip.

Honeycomb lighthouse (on the hill on right) and Honeycomb Rock (off the point ahead)
Honeycomb Rock (prominent on right)

Retained the tailwind and good speed towards Honeycomb Rock and conscious of maintaining the progress while the going was good. I used Honeycomb lighthouse and the offshore Kahau Rocks transit as a good waypoint marker as I paddled between them. I was about 15 minutes ahead of my schedule. The conditions calmed as I passed Glendu Rocks and on to Pahaoa.

Glendu Rocks
Paddling through Kairingaringa Reef that offers protection for boat launching. A shed and tractors on the beach behind the rocks.

Paddled through Kairingaringa reef just off Pahaoa. Maintaining strategy of staying close to shore. Maritime Radio weather forecast had Nly winds still forecast for the day and these are translating now into the now familiar offshore gusts down through the valleys. The loaded Secala proves very stable as my paddle stroke shorten up to deal with the variable conditions.

Te Awaiti around the distant point

Then; contrary to predictions, a very light SE presents itself that rapidly bursts into a strong southerly. Unsure how strong this southerly would get around the exposed Point ahead, I took the opportunity to pull into a tiny beach through the rocks. Tantilisingly close to my destination now (only 6km short of Stony Bay) but still plenty of time in the day. Had been looking for a chance to come ashore anyway to relieve a “pressing” matter as I didn’t think I could hold on till Stony Bay.

Taking refuge from a strengthening southerly that whipped up unexpectedly off the Point ahead

Sent Shaz an inReach message as soon as I hit the beach, with a sitrep, in the hope she would receive it before she leaves internet coverage at Carterton.

Coffee time!

Made a windbreak to brew a coffee

Unexpected southerlies tend to be short lived, in my limited experience around here……!! Otherwise it could be an overnighter. Thankfully the southerly backed off after about an hour and I messaged Shaz to say I was hitting the water again. As I launched and made my way towards Te Awaiti the wind eased off completely. That’s the Wairarapa for you!

Just off Oterei River (Te Awaiti).

Looking for a landing now as I am likely to arrive at Stony Bay before Shaz. While passing Te Awaiti a couple of locals were chatting on VHF Ch6 so I made an “all stations” call asking for info on landing options with vehicle access. Got no reply.

Up ahead, where I thought Stony Bay was, a couple of boats were heading for shore though a gap in the reef. An obvious couple of lead poles were positioned on the rocks that guided boats through a gap in the reef. I lined myself up with these and cruised into a perfectly sheltered beach and boat ramp.

Boats lead me towards the protected Sandy Bay. The boat “leads” can be seen on the rock, marking the passage through the reefs.
Inside the protected Sandy Bay

It turned out to be called Sandy Bay, according to the local boatie; one bay short of Stony Bay proper. Met and chatted with inquisitive boaties who hadn’t seen a kayak paddle into their harbour before!
Couldn’t raise Maritime Radio to close out my TR. Glad I suggested this to MR earlier.

Local Tips: 
Expect winds from all directions and strengths. Forecasts are a guide.
Hug the shore 
Always be prepared for an impromptu overnighter
Stoney Bay has a boat ramp but it has a private locked access.
Sandy Bay has a narrow channel (with beacon leads) completely flanked by reefs leading to a fully protected beach. Locals say the channel to Sandy Bay can be narly in rough conditions.
There are more open beach landing options at Te Awaiti and Tora


Shaz ………

1 January 2020 (New Years Day)

Brent was up at 3.55am this morning, itching to get going and make the most of the favourable conditions while they last!

Got up around 8am myself, had some breakfast and then went for a work along the beach taking some last minute photos before leaving this beautiful place today! 

Flat Point looking north. (Castle Rock very faint in the distance)

Got back around 9.35am and had a shower, then a cup of tea with Karen and family before leaving around 10.30am heading for Tora. Before leaving Lance gave me some paua, that Brent and Glen caught the other day already minced and frozen. I put 3 packs in our freezer and left one out for our dinner tonight. 

After saying good bye to everyone I headed for Carterton to empty the tanks, fill up with water, get diesel and supplies from the supermarket. Stopped at the top of the hill and pulled over to take a photo looking down across to Flat Point in the distance.

Flat Point from the access road

Brent messaged me there to say that he had pulled into a beach as the southerly wind came up making paddling difficult. He said to hang around in Carterton so I had internet until he messaged back with what he was going to do! Around half hour later he messaged to say that he was going onto Te Awaiti but wasn’t sure if there was a good landing spot there. He said that he might try and go to Stony Bay, but to call him on the VHF along the coast to when I get there! 

The road was great until I got to the gravel road, it was awful like a continuous judder bar all along the road! Poor van, everything was rattling and banging driving me mad! Finally got to the turn off at Tora towards Te Awaiti. Driving along the coastal road I saw Brent close to the shore so called him on the VHF. He said that he was going to come into this bay! It turns out this was called Sandy Bay! 

Entering Sandy Bay

I had to park in the parking area outside the closed gate, when I got to him he was already talking to this young guy. He was intrigued as he has never seen a kayak land on the beach here before!  

Lots of people interested in how Brent was going to get the kayak up on the roof of the van. Anyway once we packed up, washed down the kayak we set off to camp the night at Te Awaiti reserve camp.

I cooked paua fritters for tea, they were so good! Cooked them just like Karen and Lance said too, delicious guys thanks!

Early to bed tonight, Brent crashed by 7.30pm.

Paua Fritters: 1/2 cup flour, 1 egg and enough milk to mix until a nice sticky consistency not to running add mince paua and one finely chopped onion, salt and pepper to season. Heat oil in a frying pan and cook paua fritters. Simple and yummy! 

2 January 2020

Had a sleep in this morning, even Brent did for a change! Brent made a cooked breakfast before we left Te Awaiti beach camp, looks like most people heading home today!

Te Awaiti camp beside the Oterei River
Te Awaiti camp

We left Te Awaiti at 9.50am, we drove along to Tora beach to check it out and then back down the judder bar gravel road onto Martinborough. 

Brent wanted to drive onto Ngawi and check out the possible landing spots. We were going to stay the night there and check into a camp ground as we need to power up the camper van. It appears that the house battery isn’t charging as it should! Anyway no room, so we headed north! Contacted Eketahuna Camping Ground and they had plenty of power sites tonight, so decided to stay the night there. What a really nice campground, friendly people running it! You just park up, plug into power and they come around introduce themselves and collect your payment $10 per person per night and the showers are free!!!