A year later; we are back. And keen to finish off the West Coast. A nagging hangover from last year. Then ……. some solid progress down the East Coast. Hopefully. There are some hurdles to overcome though. Some of the most remote and rugged coastline in the country. And Farewell Spit.
But first – Kohaihai Bluff ………..
Tuesday 21 January, 2025 Kohaihai Bluff to Seal Bay
We made haste from New Plymouth to Kohaihai. The immediate swell forecast looks good. Required for a Kohaihai launch. With it’s fearsome reputation.
You also need a good 2-3 day forecast. This NW section of the South Island is rugged and remote. There are few known refuges. Few paddlers have taken it on. And those that have; have stories to tell.
At the completion of our trip here last year we identified a better launch location 2km south of the Kohaihai campground. The beach was not as steep. The shore dumpers were not as menacing.
The swell forecast now is 1.5m reducing to 1.2m. You can’t expect better than that around here. We parked at the Mossy Burn bridge lay-by to reaquaint ourselves with the conditions. At an equivalent state of tide that we would have tomorrow morning. It would be an ebbing mid-tide.
There is a nice “hollow” just beyond the shore break. Very handy. A place to dwell before taking on the destructive outer break.
But that is not all. There is a second outer break to contend with. Which becomes more prominent as the ebb recedes below mid-tide.
On the positive side; the shore dumpers should moderate as the tide backs away from the steeper section of beach. An ebbing mid-tide was shaping up to be a good launch period. As good as any.
There are two good paddle days left in this weather window. After that all bets are off.
Weather would dictate progress; ….. as always. With two days I should reach the accessible haven of Paturau River. There is a campground there. And Shaz can drive there via a 30km gravel road if needed.
Ideally though, we are planning to get to Fossil Point (Farewell Spit) on the third day; bypassing Paturau River altogether. This plan will have two remote overnight camps. At Seal Bay and a beach just south of Whanganui Inlet. I have no paddle intel on either. They are unknown as paddle destinations. I identify them both as possible landings while inching my way along the Google Earth coastline. They look great on paper. But who knows what we will be confronted with when we arrive. Or what the suitable alternative would be if they weren’t.
I have packed Secala with several days worth of supplies. In case plans change. And we need to take refuge somewhere on this remote and rugged coast. Which is probable.
Today’s target though is Seal Bay; 7km south of Kahurangi Point. And conveniently midway between Kohaihai and Whanganui Inlet. About 6 hours paddle. I prefer to restrict my first few paddle days to about 6 hours. To bank some paddle fitness early; for the bigger efforts to come.
I was confident of getting out of Kohaihai today. They were my first impressions of the conditions. We have launched in harsher shore breaks before. But it wasn’t going to be easy.
The launch attempts turned out ugly. Uglier than they should have been. And took four attempts.
Paddlers familiar with heavy shore breaks know that selecting the setup location on a sloping beach is usually a key to success. There is an element of luck; with waves of varying intensity. Sometimes sweeping past you; sometime short. Additionally; Secala is well loaded and harder to manage. Once in the cockpit, a few seconds are required to secure the skirt and grab the paddle. And a few seconds is often all you have.
I get the first two launch attempts all wrong. I have set up too close to the sweeping shore break. Twice we get sucked into the maelstrom before we are fully prepared. We get smashed back on the beach before leaving it. It’s frustrating, tiring and time consuming.
On the third attempt, we get things right. And we’re through the shore break. We sit in the “hollow” behind it. And take the first gap that I see in the outer break. And get the timing wrong. There wasn’t a gap at all. And I have committed too far. Successive waves rear up in front of us. We rise up the first one as the crest was breaking. My chest and head get smashed backwards by a solid green wall of water as the heavy Secala ploughs through and over.
This momentary feeling of relief is dashed; as we flop over the crest, and gape at a second larger wave. Crestfallen; we take on the challenge. Despite knowing the outcome. The wave is already breaking heavily and will swamp us.
Like a defiant child; we paddle hard into the maelstrom ……. to be consumed and eventually spat out like a piece of driftwood.
More frustration. And more energy sapping time lost. We start over again.
Our forth attempt is pretty much perfect. And should have been what the first attempt looked like. Maybe. If I had shown a little more patience.
We are through the shore break again. More time in the hollow. A full swell set rolls through. We sprint out the lull without a problem.
Almost two hours are wasted. And I nearly lost my drybag of tent poles that somehow became unclipped from behind the seat. And recovered where they had washed up 30m along the beach.
The first major obstacle has been overcome. Beyond the surf breaks, the conditions are perfect. A paddle wave to Shaz and the adventure is finally underway.
Passing Kohaihai Bluff and Scotts Beach; pods of Hectors dolphins momentarily drop by. Enough to sooth the mood and easing the pulse.
The Heaphy River arrives quickly. The pounding shore break continues unabated. Reminding us that these fully exposed ocean beaches of North Westland offer few safe havens.
We settle into our paddle rhythm on this spectacular coastline. The sea conditions couldn’t be better.
Four hours from Kohaihai, we close in on the prominent Wekakura Point. Large rocks extend directly off the beach that would offer good protection from northerly or southerly conditions.
Rounding Steep Point; Big Bay beach looks enticing in these benign conditions. Rocks Point at the northern end of Big Bay offers more dramatic shoreline to navigate.
Around Rocks Point and the outcrop of Seal Bay becomes obvious. As we get closer I could see right through the sandy gap that seems to form an isthmus between the mainland and its promontory. Offering two potential approaches and landings at Seal Bay. One from south; or go around the rocks to approach from the north. I chose the northern approach. Much of the northern beach is exposed to the swell. More so than the southern approach. But we hug the rocks of the promontory and find a sheltered landing in its lee.
I am stoked. This placed has turned out so much better than I could have imagined. Remote; idyllic; beautiful. And all mine. There is no sign of recent human occupation.
I check out the entire beach. There are rocks that divide the beach in half. The eastern side is much more exposed to the westerly swell. And there’s a decent shore break. It has the only good water source with a steady stream of water tumbling from the rocky undergrowth.
The western end of the beach has an isthmus that offers a sheltered landing from both (north and south) directions. And a better camping option for protection from the west and south.
There is no sign of previous human activity. It feels like my very own discovery. Without doubt, one of my favourite locations so far on this entire NZ circumnavigation. And better still; there are no sign of sandflies ….. yet.
I take the opportunity to strip off for a swim and wash off the Kohaihai sand that’s got under the wetsuit. There is plenty of time to get re-acquainted with the old camp routines. And soak up the surroundings. I set about solar charging the battery bank; replenishing water; fresh water rinsing and drying the gear. Erecting the tent. Soaking up this stunning area and its wildlife. As the day wanes, a few sandflies do turn up. Not enough to be annoying; but enough to suggest that they probably have more friends nearby.
I can be very content with the day. It’s been a long one. Dusk arrives as weariness set it. Kohaihai is behind us. No mean feat. It was a beautiful paddle on a most stunning coastline. And concluded with a camp on a remote piece of paradise. What will tomorrow bring!
Wednesday 22 January, 2025 Seal Bay to Paturau River
Todays paddle destination is still undecided. It depends on tomorrow (Thursdays) forecast. It had been showing strengthening SW on Thursday; up to 30kts at Cape Farewell after midday.
My planned destination is another “Goggle Earth” discovery; 2km south of Whanganui Inlet. Similar to Seal Bay; offering a protected landing in the lee of a rocky shoreline.
This would be a 7.5hr paddle from Seal Bay. From there its only 4hrs to get around Cape Farewell on Thursday. If I could get around Cape Farewell by midday; I might beat the strong SW’lys.
Plan B is to come out at Paturau River. A shorter 6hr paddle. Where Shaz can drive to. And we can camp until the conditions improve.
Shaz is primed to send me an extensive forecast for Thursday via inReach overnight. I will make the decision on paddle destination in the morning. Whanganui Inlet (south) or Paturau River.
I rise at my usual 0430hrs. A good sleep considering. But a few aches and pains from yesterday’s hiding at Kohaihai. To be expected.
Soaked my breakfast cereal, made a coffee and read Shaz’s lengthy weather forecast. Which hasn’t got any better. Cape Farewell actually looks worse. Decided to make Paturau River the destination and told Shaz I would be on the water by 0700. No rush. Today’s forecast is good. And I only have a 6hr paddle instead on 7.5hrs. Shaz will have a bigger day than expected. With a long drive from Motueka with a 30km gravel road from Pakawau to Paturau River campground.
A very reluctant departure from Seal Bay. If there is ever a place to return to; it is here. Or be weather bound for a couple of days. But this is the West Coast. When there is a good paddle day; you take it every time.
It’s an easy launch. Within seconds we around the protective rocks and beyond the surf zone. What a contrast from yesterday.
Kahurangi Point soon comes into view. The lighthouse structure is much more majestic than expected. I was expecting something insignificant. Like Puyseguer Point or West Cape.
The rest of the paddle is very enjoyable keeping as close to the shoreline as practicable; considering the numerous offshore reefs. Once we venture a little too close to shore and scrambled to meet a very large wave as it rose menacingly towards us. With its death rattle in progress. A few heart pumping seconds of hard paddling and we flop over the peak.
Paturau River eventually arrives. A little slower than expected; with the last 3hrs against light headwinds.
I see the top of the camper moving behind the dunes. Shaz has arrived and is soon at the top of the beach sizing up the best landing spot.
There are reefs to the south of the river mouth. Evidenced by rocks awash in the tide zone. The surf zone looks similar whatever approach we take. Continuous lines of tumbling surf. But nothing too menacing. We enter and ride the surf with a little too much complacency. And get flipped in the shallows. Unnecessary and annoying. But Shaz enjoys a good laugh. Nevertheless; another enjoyable day of solid progress on this wonderful coastline.
23 – 29 January, 2025. Paturau River
We are expecting to spend some weather days at Paturau. But the “weather days” have developed into a westerly storm. We decide to seek shelter back at the NZMCA park in Golden Bay.
Before we leave Paturau; Peter Hall introduces himself. The owner of the land around here, including the campsite. He stays in a caravan while renting out a couple of houses behind the campground. He’s impressed with our story.
On the 27 January we returned to Paturau to find heavy surf and strong SW winds. Conditions are forecast to ease over the next few days. The familiar waiting game on the West Coast continues. Twice daily I walk 1.5km back up the road to get cell reception. And the latest forecast.
Finally, on the 29 January the swell conditions look good enough. And the NW winds are forecast to ease. We prepare for an early launch tomorrow.
Thursday 30 January, 2025 Paturau River to Fossil Point
All set for an early launch this morning. The forecast swell conditions are set to rise through the day. Paturau has a deceptive surf given any swell and tidal combination. The view from the top of the beach offer no glues for a preferable exit. The surf lines are continuous over the reef. But look relatively benign. And yet at sea level; in the kayak, they feel quite daunting. As we were about to find out.
A quick walk up to road to check the forecast. It hasn’t changed. The forecast swell is rising today from 1.6m to 2.0m. Providing some incentive for an early start. The tide has turned and the flood begun. We are set to launch at 0630. Although Shaz is apprehensive about my chances.
We launch behind the fully exposed rocks below the campground. The unrelenting stream of tumbling surf offers few glues for timing a breakout. It’s energy sapping and we’re getting nowhere. I become impatient and pay the price. The washing machine spin cycle picks me up and spits me out.
Peter Hall comes running down the beach from where he was watching on the hill. He offered some advise on the better launch spot some 200m along the beach. He describes a gap in the reef. Good to have that local knowledge. And an alternate option. But I suggest to him that I would give it another shot when the tide has had a bit more time to flood. Which will cover the reef a little more and take the heat out of the outer breaks. Hopefully. We head back to the camper for a cup of tea.
Waiting around isn’t a strength I possess. I’m itching to give it another attempt. Shaz says I’m crazy. And asks me for the passwords to my bank accounts.
The surf hasn’t perceptively changed. But giving it another go; we must. I figure conditions aren’t going to improve anytime soon.
This time success. Maybe I’m a little more patient. More likely a little more lucky. Whatever the case ………..we are out of Paturau River. And perhaps the last “real” West Coast launch. Shaz expresses disbelief on VHF. A paddle wave and we’re off.
Great to be on the move again after a week confined to barracks. The target today Fossil Point at the base of Farewell Spit.
The wind forecast is for essentially light winds through the day. There is a blanket of altostratus overhead; stretching to the northern and western horizon. There is a clear line of precipitation and reduced visibility ahead. The sea is a little lumpy. Probably a relic of yesterday’s strong onshore NW winds. We pass the conspicuous Sharks Head that looks like an inverted sharks head with open jaws. Soon after that the outer breakers of the Whanganui Inlet become conspicuous. We drift out wide. It is the top of the tide now. We have made good progress through the flood. The turn of the tide will gather against us soon.
As we head north of Kaihoka Point the weather closes in. Rain showers are heavy; impairing visibility. The wind remains a steady 10kt from the west. For now. I am a little apprehensive that the weather may change; or amplify, as we close in on Cape Farewell. As they tend to do at all geographical extremities. I consider our refuge options. There is Wharariki Beach at the Archway Islands. But nothing much else. The coastline is rugged. Limestone cliffs grow in prominence to culminate at Cape Farewell. If we choose not to pull out at Wharariki Beach; Fossil Point is the only viable alternative. And only another hours paddle away.
The Archway Islands are much larger and imposing than expected. Yet provide some finesse and beauty to a dramatic and daunting shoreline. Caves in the cliffs have been carved out by the ocean. Booming emanates from them as the sets roll through. Adding to the drama of the spectacular landscape.
The sea conditions become much more sloppy as the bounce back opposes the sea state. I can also feel the strength of the ebb tide gathering against us now.
As we round the Archway Islands; Farewell Spit comes into view. The conditions are holding. And the decision is made. Fossil Point will be the destination. We round Pillar Point and line up the beach just to the east of the reef at Fossil Point. And ride a gentle surf onto the beach.
It has taken longer than expected to get here from Kohaihai. We have only paddled 3 days out of the last 10. Below par. But the successful completion of the formidable NW coastline cannot be snivelled at.
It’s time now to focus on the next challenge. The rounding of Farewell Spit.
I stash Secala in the dunes and take the 20 minute walk out to Shaz at the car park.
31 January – 02 February Fossil Point (Pakawau)
Getting the conditions right for the Farewell Spit paddle will be important. It’s a big day even when they are favourable. We bide time at Pakawau. While Secala rests up in the dunes.
Monday 03 February, 2025 Fossil Point to Mutton Cove
I have looked forward with anticipation to this paddle. For a long time. Symbolically closes the chapter on the South Island west coast. Significant enough in itself.
The Spit has a mystique. An aura accentuated by its remoteness and access prohibition. On a global scale; it’s huge. 35km long. It’s a wildlife sanctuary and a place of regular pilot whale strandings.
Each side of the sand spit endure completely different marine conditions. The northern side contends with the harsh open ocean. While Golden Bay enjoys the buffer and relative tranquility. It is well known in the maritime world as a sanctuary for vessels; a safe haven from adverse weather.
My curiosity with this place is intense. What does the interface look like as the Spit delves below the sea surface? And the tranquil Bay clashes with the open sea. How big will the breakers be? How does the tidal range impact the observable length of the Spit? And the extra distance I may have to paddle. How will I know when to make the radical right turn towards Separation Point? Where the water depth transitions from tens of meters to just a few inches. And; how much wildlife will I encounter?
Nominally this is a 9-10 hour paddle. Around 55km. 5hrs to the end of the Spit; and 4hrs across Golden Bay to Separation Point. It’s still early days on this trip. I have only done 3 paddle days. And I’m not in top paddle shape yet. By some margin.
I have contacted DOC to advise them of my intentions. There is a firm understanding that landing anywhere on the Spit is prohibited unless my personal safety is in peril.
Our plan is to make camp somewhere near landfall at Separation Point. Probably the DOC campground at Mutton Cove. If it’s not too busy. Then paddle the length of the Able Tasman to meet up with Shaz at Kaiteriteri. I plan to carry a few days worth of supplies; just in case.
The forecast is marginally better than it has been lately. Expect the early SE’ly wafting over the Spit; followed by a gathering NW’ly during the day. Peaking at 18kts this afternoon. Better than 25+kt predictions in recent days. It will be a cross wind. Over my right shoulder. When I eventually make the turn towards Separation Point; at the end of the Spit
Tides are also a consideration. LW today is 0800hrs. HW is 1400hrs. The tidal range is 3.5m. I was keen to coincide my arrival at the end of the Spit at; or close to, HW. My assumption is that more of the Spit will be submerged. Or further submerged. Maybe reducing the paddle distance to the turning point. I have been advised that the breakers can extend several kilometres beyond the visible end of the Spit.
Also, the flooding tidal stream is easterly along the outside of the Spit. In my favour. It should be a cruisey morning paddle at least.
An early start is planned. For the 15 minute drive from Pakawau to the cark park at Port Puponga. And the 20 minutes walk through farmland, to the dunes. Where Secala remains stashed above Fossil Point. By the time we arrive at the car park; twilight has advanced sufficiently for me to dispense with my headlamp.
In collapsible supermarket bags I carry the gear that I have recharged (VHF, inReach, phone, battery pack, GoPro); water and food. Secala is patiently waiting in the dunes.
The tide is still an hour away from LW. There is a lot of beach between the dunes and the waters edge. A long way to drag a semi loaded kayak.
It’s an easy launch through low surf. For a pleasant change. Behind the breakers, we turn directly into the sun that is emerging over the Spit. The first sunrise that we have experienced for quite a while. A whisper of a SE’ly wafts offshore. We settle in for the first phase of the trip. To the end of the Spit. Where I expect to have the assist of tide and a trending NW breeze.
The paddling is easy along a baron sandscape. We stay as close to the shore break as possible. The predicted light (6-8kts) NW arrives by mid morning. There is a splattering of wildlife. Gannets, terns, the occasional seal on the beach. My only obstacles are the occasional outer surf breaks.
The most conspicuous landmark of the Spit arrives. The lighthouse amongst a cluster of trees. We are just over 4 hours from Fossil Point. Making good time so far.
From here the Spit slowly recedes before submerging below the sea surface. It’s a fascinating thing to observe. The length of the Spit is out of proportion with its elevation. It looks like the tiny observable tip of a subsea behemoth.
The tranquil shallow sea state of the Bay is abruptly accosted by the turmoil of the open ocean. We are paddling within 20 meters of the demarcation. A continuous line of breakers extends ahead without visible end.
There is 3 hours of flood tide remaining. On both sides of the Spit. The breakers tumble on the ocean side; and disperse. Rippling over a few inches of water on the Bay side. The tidal zone on the Bay side is very shallow sloping. And covers a huge area.
Wildlife appears more prevalent in this tidal zone of the Spit. Flocks of gannets and terns swirl overhead. Shearwaters clutter the sea surface. On the submerged Spit, a seal rears up on its flippers; giving the illusion that it’s “standing” on water.
The line of breakers continue. I can see the water depth slowly accumulating on the Bay side of the breakers.
Separation Point is beckoning on my right shoulder. The temptation to turn is strong. Every paddle stroke I make further around the Spit; could be one that I’m making towards our destination.
There comes a point where the depth of water on the Bay side of the Spit will appear deep enough to cut through. But there is no telling if that water depth will be enduring. Over that huge tidal zone.
The breakers continue ahead. With no observable end point. I recall Paul Caffyn’s advice “Go to the end of the breakers Brent”. And I know that this is exactly what I will do. I set aside any temptation to break through the surf zone. Lynn Paterson has advised that we may have to paddle up to 10km beyond the end of the Spit before turning into the Bay.
Sooner than I expect the line of breakers diminish in quantity and magnitude. The water depth on the Bay side appears more than sufficient for Secala and me. I decide to turn. A key moment. A leap of faith. And it’s a radical turn. A 70 degree course adjustment from 125 to 195. We sprint across the potential surf zone and over the shallow tidal area of the more tranquil Bay. The bottom is less than a meter deep. But comfortable. And after several minutes fast paddling; gradually deepens. We are in the clear and I focus our attention on the distant landscape. It’s 24km away; and featureless. We set a compass course for a more accurate landfall.
There’s mixed emotions that the Spit is now behind me. I stop and look over my shoulder at the clump of trees at the end of the Spit. There’s elation and a good sense of accomplishment at a successful rounding. And some mysteries of the Spit revealed. The rounding marks the end of the West Coast. The sunsets will be displaced with sunrises.
Our destination; Separation Point, is now directly ahead, at last. The sea state changes dramatically over the next 20 minutes. The NW’ly that has been more or less astern; is now on my stbd beam. And escalating, as forecast. The westerly flowing flood tide into the Bay still has 2 hours left in the tank. Directly opposing sea state. It gets lumpy. During the next hour the winds escalate from 12 to 20kts. The sea state becomes intense and annoying. Even though I know Secala tracks very well in these conditions; I apply some leeway to be sure. The wind is pushing us offshore. And it’s a 4 hour trip across the Bay. On a good day. The sea chop washes over the deck of Secala constantly. There is no opportunity to rest. I’m grateful to have some “ballast” in the hull. In anticipation of a long day, I have made a point of frequently hydrating and nourishing all morning. More than usual. And the body is feeling fine.
At the top of the tide; the sea state eases to a more comfortable level. Even though the wind has escalated.
Separation Point is painfully slowly arriving. During the last hour the conditions ease further. Eventually Separation Point lighthouse becomes apparent. I have tried to pinpoint the lighthouse against the landscape a number of times. Thinking that it was more elevated. It eventually becomes obvious; and much closer to sea level than expected. My compass course and leeway have served me well. I say a big “Hi” to the Point; from Lynn Paterson.
Immense satisfaction that a big and memorable day has been completed well.
A smooth landing onto a golden sand beach to finish the day. A long time coming. The South Island west coast has been overcome. This NW section has been a particular challenge. It is remote and inaccessible. The coastline is dramatic and difficult. Safe havens are few. Not many have kayaked this area. And little is known from a kayaking perspective.
And so; there is a sense now that the journey can continue more fluidly; with less complication. Less restrictions on surf, weather and safe havens.
Tuesday 04 February, 2025 Mutton Cove to Kaiteriteri Beach
Today was always going to be a cruisey day. Shaz will be waiting at Kaiteriteri after tackling the renowned Takaka Hill in the camper yesterday. Kaiteri is only 5 hours paddle away. And I have all day.
I rise casually; make a coffee and carry it along the 20 minute track to Separation Point.
Not surprisingly, there is no sign of low lying Farewell Spit from this vantage point.
I pull out my phone to take some photos and realise I have cellphone reception. A few txts have congratulated yesterdays effort.
A casual decamp and we are on the water just after 0900. There’s only so much aimless mooching that can be done. A light SE headwind eventually backs around to the NE. The Able Tasman is an old stomping ground from my youth. Boarding school tramps. And a training ground for more ambitious trekking adventures.
We linger and reminisce off some of the Bays like Bark Bay and Anchorage. And appreciate them from a different perspective. We gladly bypass all the beaches that are lined kayaks. Boats infest the waterways. It is still peak holiday period. And this is a very popular holiday destination. We are reluctantly back in the “real” world; apparently!
I shall return in quieter times; to dwell along this beautiful coast.
We round Adele Island and our destination Kaiteriteri becomes obvious. As vessels of all shapes and sizes converge upon it.
Shaz has set up camp and directs me ashore through the bustling Bay. The Riviera of the South Island.
Thursday 06 February, 2025 Kaiteriteri Beach to Cable Bay
After a layday; it’s an early start. The forecast for this 6 hour paddle is good until midday. A 20kt easterly headwind is expected this afternoon. An early start is called for.
We are at the waters edge ready to launch at 0600 in the early dawn twilight. And so are a queue of boats at the nearby boat ramp. It’s still too dark to be on the water in a busy bay. We wait 20 minutes for better light.
We clear the docile waters of Kaiteri Bay and into an equally passive Tasman Bay. Despite the conditions; there is a sense of urgency to get across the 35km stretch of water. The distant horizon is shrouded in ominous dark grey cloud.
Yesterday I had established my compass course across Tasman Bay. I would need this even on a good day with perfect visibility. And we certainly needed it now. There is no discernible landmark on the distant horizon.
Soon into the paddle though; buoys of a large mussel farm provide ideal directional markers.
And fishing boat activity around the mussel farms added further distraction to what would potentially be a tedious open water paddle.
We keep up a good pace in the calm conditions. And it is the first paddle this trip where Secala is light. I just keep a little gear fore and aft for ballast. As usual.
About half way across the Bay, the landscape ahead starts to obtain some definition; through the grey haze. I can make out Pepin Is. My compass course had been perfect again.
About 14km (2hours) from Pepin a light rain sets in and the anticipated easterly reveals itself. The shoreline retracts behind a grey shroud.
By the time we are just a few kilometres from Cable Bay, the easterly has only escalated to 10kts. And eases back as we enter the protection of the Bay. We have timed this paddle perfectly.
I see the top of the camper as we hit the rocky shore. Shaz has timed her arrival perfectly to.
Summary ……………
An outstanding first 17 days of this trip South. Kohaihai seems a long time ago. But there are times and places that are permanently etched. The beauty of the rugged, remote, unforgiving NW coast. Seal Bay ……..Seal Bay ……… Seal Bay. Petulant Paturau. Mystical Farewell Spit. And the tranquil Able Tasman.
There has only been 6 paddle days out of the 17 though. A poor average. Our experiences to date; along the entire North Island West Coast and the South Island West Coast (to Kohaihai), we have averaged 50% paddle days. That paddle day average will surely improve now.
Despite the relief of completing the West Coast; there is a sense of remorse that the most beautiful; remote and challenging coastline in the country is now behind us. From Green Islets to Farewell Spit. It’s been a journey of a lifetime. Where the soul has been nourished; Peace has been found; Beauty has been revealed; And frequent reminders that the present is all that matters.
It is time to focus ahead. The next segment though the Marlborough Sounds will have quite a different series of challenges. Surf breaks are substituted with tidal streams. French Pass; Cape Jackson and Tory Channel. And what a story they should tell.