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28/02/201910/01/2021

10. Bay Of Plenty – Onemana to Papamoa

22 – 23 February, 2019

This was an unlikely long weekend trip weatherwise, however being there meant that I could take opportunities on the water as they presented themselves. Left home on Thursday afternoon and booked into Whangamata campground on the way. The punt proved fruitful, making yards on two consecutive days.

THIS TRIP: Onemana to Papamoa – 2 paddle days

Overall Distance 86.2 km Time 12.36 hrs Average Speed 7.0 km/hr

Friday 22 February 2019

Onemana to Bowentown

**Distance 40.6km , Time 5.96hrs , Average Speed 6.8km/hr**

Shorter drive to Coromandel last night arriving at Whangamata campground at 1930.
Up at 0530 to cook breakfast but no big rush as the campground gates aren’t opened until 0700. It’s been raining overnight with forecast suggesting a light northerly rising later.
Just a 10 minute drive to Onemana and curious (as always) to see what the surf would look like, now close to full tide this time. Good to see the surf break was gone leaving a large shore dump about 20 meters off the steep beach. Would be an easy launch if I got my timing right. Well, this time it wasn’t! Managed to plow straight into a dumper as it broke over the bow. I got picked up and shunted straight back up the beach. Somehow stayed upright and quickly realised that my paddle float had been forced out and overboard from under the 3 deck bungies and the deck bag tie-downs. Out of reach, I managed to get it back onboard using the paddle and frantically continue my exit attempt before the next dumper. With no time to secure the paddle float (now jammed under the deck bag) I slammed into the next dumper and lost it overboard again while, again, being thrown back up the beach. Third time lucky …….. retrieved the paddle float with the paddle again and continued on the next, and successful, attempt to get off the beach. If I had just been patient and got my timing right in the first place ………………..!

A nice wet (drenched) start to the day. Once clear, had a giggle with Shaz on the VHF. Would have been a crack-up to see on video.

Set off on calm sea with rain all around but mostly over the land. Had the compass on standby but the visibility on the water remained good all day. Scheduled a VHF check with Shaz for one hour at Whangamata. A light northerly gathered and the sea got a little lumpy.

Another VHF check-in at Whiritoa an hour and a half later. The sea is a little uncomfortable now but advised Shaz that I would be fine for the next 2 hour paddle to Waihi Beach; and lunch.

Decided to go on to Ocean Beach, Bowentown about 8km south down the beach from Waihi and call it an early finish for the day. The sea had got unpleasantly lumpy now and I didn’t fancy pushing on to the next accessible point of Mt Maunganui, 4 hours further paddle past Matakana Island.

The Ocean Beach sandbanks, courtesy of the Katikati entrance to Tauranga Harbour, had to be negotiated with care. It was now the tail end of the ebbing tide opposing the northerly chop just to make it interesting. Managed to weave my way through to land in one piece right in front of Shaz.

Shaz ………… We arrived at Whangamata holiday Park around 7.40pm last night, we had booked into a kitchen cabin. It was awful! It smelt old and musty. Oh well it is what it is I guess!! Not a good nights sleep, sore back old lumpy mattress, the bed creaks every time you move, No running hot water in kitchen sink (there was a hot tap, just no hot water). Not good value for money at all, $100 for cabin per night plus $1 for a shower! Not getting a good review from me!

Up early, but gates don’t open until 7am. We head for Onemana beach 9.3km 10 minute drive, not to far.

Brent set off in dumpy conditions this morning. A dumping wave washed him back up the beach and his paddle float out from the bungies under the deck bag. Managed to retrieve it quickly with his paddle before it all happened again with the next wave. By the time I got my phone out of my dry bag, I had missed all the action. It would have been good footage too!

Back at camp I showered and packed up, then had to do dishes, sweep up, take our rubbish with us or they would charge a cleaning fee to your credit card! BULLSHIT, for that money what did we get ‘a bad taste in your mouth’!

It is raining now, Brent went past Whangamata beach around 8.30am I made contact him ……. he wasn’t worried about the rain. He said that it was quite calm out there.

I drove onto Whiritoa beach and saw him go past there at 10am.

Has been raining even harder stopped now though but still not bothering him our there. He said that the wind had got up a little bit, but not a problem! He said he will see me in Waihi Beach for lunch in about 2.5hrs.

Got a coffee at ‘Daisy Chain Cafe really good coffee too! The lady that owns the cafe had this awesome picture on the wall she got in Paris 15 years ago. It was a drawing of a Rhinoceros’s head, with the ‘Louvre’ for the lump on his nose and the ‘Eiffel Tower’ for his horn. The artist was a conservationist and was drawing animals that are endangered and wanted people to take notice and protect these animals. It was so good, she watched him sketch it and asked if he was going to sell it! He was, so she waited until he finished it and carried it around for the rest of her OE.

Brent arrived at Waihi Beach about 12.30pm, had lunch ready for him.

Looking down over Bowentown & Waihi beach’s

After lunch he set off for Ocean Beach at Bowentown about an hour down Waihi Beach. Conditions have got a little worse now, it was an interesting launch, not to worry I got it all on video! WRONG, hadn’t push record had I! Silly woman that’s twice today I’ve missed some good footage.

Staying tonight at Bowentown Beach Holiday Park, in kitchen cabin $95 per night! Flash, no smells, clean, good bed, bunk beds, very nice kitchen, fridge freezer, table and chairs and TV! Woohoo!! Raining again, but they really need it up here!

Lady from the camp was walking past and saw Brent’s kayak outside with all his gear on it. She was concerned as last Saturday night someone stole a fisherman’s kayak and all his gear, also stole bikes and other things from around the camp. Looking at the security camera’s it was about 2am in the morning, she suggested that Brent could put the kayak in there garage behind their locked gates to their house which he did.

Saturday 23 February 2019

Bowentown to Papamoa

**Distance 45.6km , Time 6.4hrs , Average Speed 7.1km/hr**

Later start as weather front was due to pass through this morning. Forecasts aren’t consistent but worst is meant to be a moderate SW that could slow me down. I could get some cover from Matakana Island for the 4 hour paddle to Mt Maunganui, if necessary. Walked to the top of Bowentown Heads, just behind the motor camp, to check the conditions at the Katikati entrance and bar and get a better feel for the weather coming out of the west. Higher tide now and the bar looked narly on both sides of the entrance. Weather looked to be clearing from the west now with patches of clear sky showing. No wind to speak of.

Got Secala from the campground garage that the Campground owner offered due to recent spate of thefts. Owner was intrigued by my trip and keen hear all about it.

Higher tide for the launch today smoothing over some outer breaks but still breaking on the larger sets. Definitely need to be very watchful here.
Paddled a long way out before I was comfortable to stop beyond the breakers. Came uncomfortably close to one breaking wave a long way off shore.
After the routine VHF check-in with Shaz I set on my way to negotiate the bar on the south side of the entrance.
Anxious moments until things flattened out and happy at last to relax into the paddle. Wind conditions were a ripple of a NE that didn’t change all the way to the Mount. Still a grey day though and watchful behind and to the west for any sign of a change.
Approaching the Mount, Shaz called to say surf was high at the Mount beach and suggested to head around Moturiki island. Did this and had a nice ride to the beach in lower surf. Am getting to like these lunchtime breaks with Shaz on the beach.
As I prepared to re-launch some young lifeguards offered to push me into the water. Suggested that that would be cheating and declined, but nice the see young folk offer help to an old man. (I bet they wouldn’t give up their seat in the bus though)
Set out through the surf as the wind had come away from the SW and picked up to about 10kts. Making good speed and feeling strong. Could have easily pushed on to Maketu a couple of hours further on but had a dinner date with Jan and Vic at Thornton which was another hours drive away.

Shaz called up to guide me in to Papamoa. Had a good ride in through the surf until the last shore break dumped me despite my brace attempt. Shaz sure to have had a good laugh.
A guy from one of the beach houses came out to give me the thumbs up for my ride and offered to help me up the beach with Secala. Talked to him for a bit about what I was doing.

Shaz …………. Great nights sleep, in a comfy bed! Rained all night, they really need it up here! I got up around 6.45am, Brent must be outside checking the conditions. When he came back it was after 7.15am, said that it looked OK but was going to wait for the 8am weather forecast before making his final decision. He went to the camp owners house to retrieve his kayak and get organised just in case. Happy with the weather report and was keen to go and knock another day off his adventure. Headed down to the beach (across country this time) at the end of the camp access rather the road.

Cross country entry to Ocean Beach at Bowentown

I stayed up on the boardwalk and watched him and get ready to video his launch as it maybe a ‘hairy one’. On the water by 8.15am, took 20 minutes to get out past the breakers. He turned on his inReach at 8.35am and started to head for Mt Maunganui where I will meet him for lunch.

Looking across towards Mt Maunganui from Ocean Beach; 2 ships in the distance

Back to camp showered, packed and headed off for Mt Maunganui. Along the way I stopped at Waihi Beach town had a coffee and a look around the shops. One of the shops there was ‘The French Shop’, wanted to have a look in there but didn’t open until 10am that’s the French for you!! Sorry Alex!

I set off for the Mount, no places to stop off and make contact with Brent as he was on the other side of Matakana Island. The Mount was a busy place today, full of Americans from on board the cruise ship that was in port. Being a Saturday doesn’t help, as everyone was at the beach! It was an overcast day but that didn’t stop people, especially the surfers. The main beach was great for the surfers, but not so good for Brent to come in on!

Waves were dumping on the beach, so suggested that he come in on the other side of Moturiki Island. He landed on the beach at 12.45pm, good ride in!

We had lunch on the beach, and talked about whether he wanted to go onto Maketu. Decided to go down the beach to Papamoa somewhere, about where the road ends.

Brent was back on the water at 1.17pm. I went on looking at the shops, got some beer for Brent when he finished. Driving down the road there aren’t many places where you can get access to the beach from the car without a long walk. So I looked around and found Motiti Road with a beach access car park, perfect! Called Brent on VHF as I could see him! Right next to me was a house with a Blue gazebo right on the edge of their property and the beach told him to head for that! He saw it and headed for that, said that he was packing down his gear and coming in. OMG what a ride he had and then right at the last minute over he went! He hasn’t come out like that for a while and I actually got all that on video! Thumbs up for me, as I have sucked at that lately.

Some locals witnessed Brent’s landing/capsize, and came down to the beach to talk to him. He said that he has lived here a long time and seen a lot of people come in, but none of them had had a great ride in like Brent. He was even kind enough to help lift the kayak up the steps to the Ute.

Tonight we are going to Jan and Vic’s for the night in Thornton, Whakatane. Vic (82yrs) is looking forward to Brent coming in at Thornton beach. Heading home tomorrow, until next time!

24/02/201910/01/2021

9. Coromandel – Whangapoua to Onemana

15 – 16 February, 2019

Another quick weekend away to maintain momentum while we can. Thursday (14th) evening travel to Whangapoua before a possible two and a half days on the water before returning home. Weather forecasts are inconsistent after Friday. With plenty of road access to this Coromandel coast, there will be no need for contingency of solo camping gear this trip.

THIS TRIP: Whangapoua to Onemana – 2 paddle days

Overall Distance 72.1 km Time 14.1 hrs Average Speed 5.1 km/hr

Distance 72.1km Time 14.1 hrs Ave Speed 5.1km/hr

Friday, 15 February 2019

Whangapoua to Pauanui

**Distance 54.6km Time 9.8hrs Speed 5.6km/hr**

Arrived late at Whangapoua Holiday Park, which is just a few minutes down the road from our launch tomorrow. Was after 2200 before bunking down to a fitful sleep.
After an early (0530) cooked breakfast for a possible longer day; down to the beach about sunrise and dragged Secala through a lot of spongy decomposing seaweed to find hard sand. Launched through low surf and off by 0700 having said to Shaz that I would see her at Hahei Beach for lunch. Another day on her quest to find the best coffee shop in the country 🙂

Rising sun in my face and the tide ebbing behind me for the first two hours until rounding into Opito Bay.

Kaurewa Point just before rounding into Opito Bay

Boulder Beach linking Tokarahu Point to the mainland. Opito Bay behind Boulder Beach.

Got a VHF call from Shaz as I crossed Opito Bay which was a nice surprise. Good paddling conditions across Opito Bay and into the “Hole in the Wall” passage that I know well from my past.

Rounding Rabbit Island at the southern end of Opito Bay

The gap between Rabbit Island and Opito Point

Turning the corner into Mercury Bay. Hahei (and lunch) in the background.

Conditions are still favourable until entering Mercury bay for the two hour crossing to Hahei. The tide has turned and a light SW’ly is also slowing me down a little.

Hahei Beach. Shaz is ahead directing me in.

Shaz directed me into the beach beside a bunch of kayaks that were being prepared for tour groups to Cathedral Cove. After a relaxing lunch on the beach I was in no hurry to get on the water again. Checking the forecast, tomorrows weather was not promising and during lunch the wind had backed around to the East stiffening to 10kts. This made the decision easy to use these conditions for easier paddling, and push on to Tairua. Launched easily avoiding dumping surf then realised my front hatch lid wasn’t secured properly. Landed again to secure it.

Departing Hahei for Wigmore Pass at the south end of Hahei beach

Rounding Waipapa Island with Tokaroa Point (Tairua Harbour) in the background

Tairua beach to right of Paku headland. Pauanui and Tairua Harbour on the other side.

Enjoyable coastline paddling all day and although feeling lethargic (tired bugger!) at lunch time, am feeling strong now after 9 hours . Shaz called to say she had booked at Pauanui instead of Tairua which was only an extra 30 minutes or so further to paddle.
Rounded Tokaroa Point and was taken by surprise at the break over the bar at Tairua Harbour entrance. There were no boats coming or going to give me pointers so sat at the edge of the bar and watched the sets for some time. Spotting a gap I managed to sprint through to the harbour entrance where Shaz was directing me where to land. After anxious moments, a flat landing and good yards made today.

Once on the beach, with tomorrow in mind, I took note of the path a couple of boats took through the bar.

Shaz ……. Up early and drove Brent to Whangapoua beach so he can start his next leg of his kayak adventure. We stayed at Whangapoua Beach holiday park in a cabin, very nice! Upon arrival I noticed that there was a whole lot of something all over the place, some sort of sea weed I think! You could see where the tide came up as it was even on the grass in car park.

We had to walk through it, I nearly slipped and it was smelly! It was all around the high tide mark, looking at it it was old carpet! Getting closer to the water the smell was awful, smelled like sewage and the sand was really soft I stuck one foot in completely covering my sandals! OMG the smell, shit did it smell literally!! Brent was on the water by 7am, heading for Hahei.

Back at Whangapoua I packed up and set of for Hahei, where I was going to meet Brent for lunch. On the way I decided to take a drive to Opito Bay for a look. Stoppped for coffee at ‘Trading Post’ cafe in Kuaotunu Bay. Busy place, not many places to sit, this lady asked me to join her as she was on her own also! We got talking, she was impressed with what Brent was doing. Her husband wanted her to circumnavigate NZ on a bike, but she isn’t interested. We were around the same age and our husbands are both 60. As a family they had just returned to NZ on Wednesday from doing some Missionary work in Guatemala, building houses for the needy. They took their 2 kids with them, aged 14 & 15 they started late in life! Son was over it very quickly but daughter love it. She was from Auckland but here staying with friend in Kuaotunu Bay and was on her way to Tairua to stay with her mother. Drove over to Opito bay for a look and to see if I could see Brent at all.

Opito Bay – Rabbit Island in foreground. Hole in the Wall passage between Rabbit Is and Old Man Rock on the left.

Beautiful and yes I did and made contact with him. From here I headed for Hahei to meet him for lunch. What a lovely place, beautiful beach lots of tourist in campervans. Bloody hot today, I hear that it’s raining in New Plymouth they could really do with some rain up here.

Brent arrived around 1.15pm, we had a picnic lunch on the beach under a tree in the shade. Watching all the tourists gearing up to go kayaking to Cathedrel Cove with their prospective tour guides.

Brent is nakered, deciding whether to continue or not! He looked up the weather report to check the weather for tomorrow. Not so good tomorrow, so made the call to continue on today!

Brent launched again around 2.05pm for Tairua, only to come back ashore again a minute later as he forgot to close one of the hatches on kayak. Finally got away at 2.15pm, he will call me later on about where he wants to come in.

I headed off for Tairua, arriving there I brought a takeaway coffee and looked around the town and the art gallery. Some great art, but prices were out of my league! I sat under the trees in the park next to the beach, and decided where we were going to stay for the night. Holiday park in Tairua is not good, so made the call to stay in Pauanui at camp there. I made contact with Brent and told him to go straight to Pauanui rather than Tairua. Booked into camp in Pauanui, really nice cabin same price as last night but bigger! Brent arrived at Pauanui beach at 6pm.

Saturday, 16 February 2019

Pauanui to Onemana

**Distance 17.5km Time 4.3hrs. Average Speed 4.1km/h**r

Wasn’t in a hurry this morning but still got up at 0530. Really hot night but still a better sleep than the last couple of nights.
Cooked breakfast dispatched and down to the Pauanui boat ramp. Flat launch at the boat ramp into Tairua harbour at 0800 with ebb flow out through the entrance. With a bar to negotiate everything was battened down. The tide was 4 hours into the ebb which was a little more advanced than my arrival time last night. Glad to have watched a couple of boats negotiate the bar last night that gave me some glues on the best channel to take. Without the speed of a boat I was still going to rely on timing and luck as breakers over the bar were big. Heart in mouth moments as I lipped over a couple of large waves before they broke. Happy to get out the back in one piece. Headed south in easy conditions until I passed Storm Beach when a southerly kicked in with some venom making it a grind. Was happy to grind it out knowing that I had a couple of handy exit points at Opoutere and Omemana within a few kilometers.
Headwinds were steady 15kts gusting higher. Eased my aerobic workout by hugging Opoutere beach trying to avoid the worst of the chop. What a great beach spot this is. Will return.

Stopped to ring Shaz to say I would pull in to Onemana for lunch and reassess the day. The conditions made it difficult to stop for more than a few seconds . In one extended stoppage I opened the day bag to get a banana and gel pack, consume the gel pack and take a pee and lost 100m of ground. Needed to take care not to loosen my grip on the paddle in the air.

Eventually turned into the beautiful Onemana Bay. Always surprised at how different these places are from what you imagine.

Contacted Shaz on VHF to get a surf report. There was clearly sandbank, in the middle of the bay, shoaling a fair way out. Shaz said the best spot was at the south end of the beach where the surfers were and that she had her video ready as I was going to get smoked this time for sure ……..!

Approached cautiously letting a couple lip under me before sprinting for the shore and being chased by the tumbling surf. Braced and washed ashore in one piece. I think Shaz was impressed, but I sense some disappointment that I didn’t offer up some carnage for her amusement.

During lunch the white caps off shore had intensified (earlier than expected) so decided to call it quits for this trip. The forecast for tomorrow was worse.

Shaz ………. When I got up this morning, I saw Brent sitting in the chair with his back to me looking like Nana wrapped up in a blanket typing on his iPad. Couldn’t resist taking a photo!

Later start today Brent waiting on weather conditions! He has decided to go for it, not to sure how far he’ll get as the wind is likely to pick up! It’s another beautiful day up here, they could really do with some of that rain they had in the ‘Naki’ yesterday.

Heading out of Pauanui behind fishing boat

Brent launched from the Pauanui Boat Ramp at 8am, heading for Whangamata where I’ll meet him for lunch. On my way back to Pauanui Glade Holiday Park I went to Twin Palms Cafe for my morning coffee, great coffee by the way! Shower, pack up and head towards Whangamata around 9.50am. Road seems a little quieter today, even know that it’s Saturday.

Driving along I decided to turn off and go down to Onemana only 3km and check it out! As I was driving down the road Brent rang. He is coming into Onemana as the wind was making his progress too difficult. Weird, I know as I was just pulling into Onemana! Plenty of parks near beach.

Access for Brent getting Secala up isn’t going to be much fun! Lots of soft sand! Had a walk along the beach, if it was’t so windy it would be a perfect day! As luck would have it, there is a cafe just across from the car park! Very nice, beautiful music (almost Italian sounding, except they are Indians running it), coffee was so hot that I burnt my tongue! Let it cool down, didn’t taste so good scolded milk taste yuck! I’m sure they had heated it in the microwave as it took a long time to get it! I complained and asked for another one, which they did!

Sat in the Ute and started reading our information pack from NZMCA, which we have joined since we are getting a camper. Saw Brent in the distance through the binoculars, and followed him until he got closer. Then I called him on the VHF, and told him the best place to come in and wished him all the best! The waves were dumping onto the beach, some real big breakers. Told him to go to the south end of the beach where the surfers were! I managed to video the whole ride in! He managed it really well, and landed on the beach at 12.20pm.

We had some lunch and Brent needed to decide whether he was going to continue or not!! Checking out the weather report and seeing the white caps on the waves way out he decided not to continue. Now he needed to get Secala up from the beach to the car park, soft sand and up hill!

What to do now, stay or go home! Go home wins, and our own bed!

10/02/201910/01/2021

8. Go Firth Old Man – Pohutakawa Bay to Whangapoua

24 – 26 January, 2019

A quick long weekend opportunity now that we are within a few hours travel of our launch at Pohutakawa Bay. Weather forecasts and tides were favourable however a few calls would have to be made on the water and contingency for solo camping required.

THIS TRIP: Pohutakawa Bay to Whangapoua – 3 paddle days

Overall Distance 126.3 km Time 21.43 hrs Average Speed 5.9 km/hr

Thursday, 24 January, 2019

Pohutakawa Bay to Papa Aroha

**Distance 45.9 km Time 6.8 hr Average speed 6.7 km/hr**

On the road early this morning for the 4-5 hour road trip back to Beachlands to get as much time on the water as possible and take advantage of the afternoon tidal ebb flow east through the Tamaki Strait.

Loading up Secala prior to launch at Pohutakawa Bay

The intended destination today is Anita Bay on Waiheke for a solo camp prior to crossing the Firth of Thames tomorrow. However the forecast was for Easterlies tomorrow so said to Shaz that I would make the final decision when I reached the open waters of the Firth and assess a possible crossing to Papa Aroha today.

Secala is fully loaded with gear, food and water for two days if necessary. As I entered the Tamaki Strait the tide assist and following SW wind made the going easy.

The beaches of Chamberlins Island looked very inviting

With the SW’lies gusting 15kts I was a tad apprehensive about what the open waters of the Firth would offer up when I got there.

Heading for Ruthe Passage and into the Firth of Thames

Once beyond the wind funnelling effect of the Strait, the SW winds steadied and the 24km crossing to Papa Aroha looked like a good option . Rang Shaz to say I would gap it and meet her over there in 4 hours. Unfamiliar with any geographical landmarks I relied on my compass heading until I was close enough to identify the higher Motuoruhi Island off Papa Aroha.

Made good time across the Firth arriving a little ahead of schedule with Shaz only just arriving at Papa Aroha and rushing down the beach with the kayak wheels.

Glad to get across the Firth today as the forecast Easterlies tomorrow may well have stalled my progress from Waiheke for another day.

Shaz ………… Left New Plymouth at 5.45am for Beachlands, Auckland. Brent launched off Beachlands at 11.45am.

He plans on going all the way to Coromandel provided everything goes well. If not he will stop somewhere on Waiheke Island. I head for Maraetai Bay and try to make contact with him, I can see him but he’s not answering on VHF. Decided to move onto another bay Magazine Bay (I’m not making this name up either) and stayed here for about an hour reading my book. Lovely spot! Then I drove along to Umupunia Beach and tried once again to make contact with Brent but no luck.

My intention was to go via Clevedon to Kawakawa Bay, but the road was closed due to slips, so had to go inland. Driving along I saw a sign that said ‘Hunua Falls, thought I’d go and have a look. Brent rang as I was pulling up! He said that everything was going well and he intended to go on the Papa Aroha (we have booked in there for Friday and Saturday night but not tonight).

Hunua Falls just a short walk from the car park, never heard of these falls before.

From here I headed for Thames, were I stopped and brought a pillow as we have left ours at home and went to Pak’N Save for some supplies.

Then back into the ute and headed for Papa Aroha, arriving at 6.20pm. Booking in a day early, thankfully they have a cabin for the night. Just opened the cabin and Brent rang me to see where I was, he arrived at the same time. Raced down to the beach in time to see him come in and take a few photos.

Settled in for the night, getting up early tomorrow to set up tent before Brent leaves.

Friday, 25 January, 2019

Papa Aroha to Port Charles

**Distance 47.2 km Time 8.0 hr Average speed 5.9 km/hr**

Not in a rush today as we had a tent to set up before hitting the water. Then we discovered the small matter of a mis-matched tent and fly being packed for the trip. After some ringing around we finally found a motel room for tonight in Coromandel town.

Slid down the pebble beach to a glassy sea

Another day with Secala laden, destined if possible for Port Charles, but a likely solo overnighter at Jackson Bay or Fletchers Bay as fresh Easterlies are still forecast which will come into play as I round Kaiiti Point at the top of the Coromandel peninsula. This would have the dual effect of slowing progress and making conditions very unpleasant as they opposed the east bound ebb tidal race around the top.

The paddle actually started with light tail winds and after 3 hours the ebb tide kicked in on cue to take us round the top. Hugged the beautiful coastline from Fantail Bay, close enough in places to easily chat with people ashore.

Approaching Kaiiti Point at the western edge of Jackson Bay, the tidal stream became very obvious and was now on high alert on this unfamiliar coast. Rounding this point felt like a rollercoaster, while dodging the eddies and the submerged rocks were my primary focus. No sign of the forecast winds yet as I crossed Jackson Bay towards Cape Colville.

Jackson Bay looking towards Cape Colville

As I rounded the Cape with the tide, a gentle 10kt Easterly slowed me down but not enough to affect my plan to paddle on to Port Charles about an hour and a half paddle away. Rang Shaz and suggested that I still camp out alone at Port Charles so that she didn’t have to drive for over 2 hours return to pick me up and another 2 hours in the morning to drop me off.

Approaching Port Charles I lined up and had a close look at a bay at the head of the peninsula.

The beach was very rocky with no convenient flat areas to camp. With plenty of other landing options around, I had a look across the bay.

Landed at this rocky beach at low tide directly across the bay from the first beach I looked at

Great camp spot and plenty of flat grassy areas above the high tide mark

Just above this rocky beach was an enticing grassy flat area. Perfect!

Shaz ………….. Up at 6.30am, had a cup of tea and breakfast! Shop opens at 7am, so Brent went over to see if it was ok to set up our tent before he launches for the Day. He hopes to head for Port Charles today.

Brent came back from the camp shop and said that we had a different tent site to set up on. Got the tent and headed over to set up, better site view of the sea!

Put up tent, NOT! Brent brought the large tent and the fly for the smaller tent!! This is not going to work sorry, he headed back to the shop to see if there was anything else available for tonight, however nothing.

We rang around and found a motel in Coromandel town for the tonight. We packed up the ute and then Brent launched from Papa Aroha heading for Port Charles.

I headed for Coromandel, checking out some of the bays along the way. I can’t book into the Tidewater motel until 1pm. So I looked around the shops, had coffee at the Wharf Cafe, went to the supermarket, checked out the Art Expo being held in town and read my book near the beach past the Coromandel wharf.

Checked out the information centre for advice regarding the roads to Port Charles to pick Brent up later on.

Brent rang at 3.20pm, he is most likely going to stay solo overnight in Port Charles, so no need for me to go over. He will ring me in the morning and tell me his plans for the day.

Lots of campers coming in for the night, not sure what’s on here in the Coromandel this weekend, accommodation is none existent. Trying to find accommodation for tomorrow night, just not happening! It’s Auckland anniversary weekend but I think there is more to it than that.

Brent rang at 5.50pm, from his campsite for the night. Sitting here in luxury watching All Blacks vs Black caps cricket.

Saturday, 26 January, 2019

Port Charles to Whangapoua

**Distance 33.2 km Time 6.6 hr Average speed 5.1 km/hr**

Great camp last night but not such a good sleep with the rising tide and low swell dumping on the steep boulder beach through the night. It was really rowdy.
Checked the time at 0430 so figured I may as well get on the water for the sunrise.

On the waters of Port Charles by 0600 with dawn approaching. Had suggested to Shaz that I would head for Opito Bay today.

Glad it was low water for launch as it would have been interesting at HW with a dumping surf on boulders. Got around the point to meet the sunrise.

The flooding tide is generally against me today. Early morning calm conditions remained until Te Anaputa Point when an offshore SW kicked in too strong for me to risk the 4 hour open water crossing to Opito Bay. Decided to hug the coast and phoned Shaz to say I would meet her at Kennedy Bay.

Feeling a bit tired I pulled into a beach to call Shaz and say I would be a little late getting to Kennedy Bay.

Opito Bay (top right) and Great Mercury Island (top center)

Turns out that Shaz had missed the Kennedy Bay turn off and ended up just around the corner from me at Tuateawa, only 15 minutes paddle away.
Slid back down the steep stoney beach and found Shaz at a really nice spot for welcome lunch and coffee.

*Coming into Tuateawa with Shaz guidance*

After a lazy lunch and feeling lethargic I said to Shaz that I would only go as far as Whangapoua today. We unloaded Secala of all the camping gear and I slid down a stoney beach for the 2nd time today.

Motukopu Island (Whangapoua in the distance)

Approaching Pungapunga Island just off Whangapoua beach

Made better speed in the light kayak. Caught a wave into the beach and broached right (my bad side!) and canned out to Shaz’s joy.

We couldn’t find any accomodation or even a tent site available closer than Waihi for the night. This was 2 hours drive away. This basically made the prospect of returning to put a fews more hours on the water tomorrow unrealistic. Unfortunately a premature end to this short trip but still happy with progress made.

Shaz ……….. Managed to have a little sleep in this morning 7am! Looked at my phone and see that Brent had an early start on the water today at 6.02am. After a shower I went for walk into Coromandel town for breakfast and coffee before heading back to pack up. Brent rang at 8.06am and said that he was heading for Kennedy Bay.

Going to meet him there and have lunch together. I put some lunch together and filled the thermos. I headed for Kennedy Bay, people at cafe said that it was just of 30 minute drive. Once I got to Kennedy Bay, the only road access that I could see was a private road only. I continued on thinking that the road went around to the other side of inlet, but then it turned inland. Never mind I continued on towards Tuateawa and turn off onto road towards a stony river, by Tuateawa Point.

Brent called on the cellphone to say that he had landed on a beach for a rest. Talking to him I explained were I was, turns out that I’m not that far from where he is! He launched again and joined me for lunch!

While at lunch he said that he was tired and didn’t sleep well last night. He decided to go to Whangapoua, instead of going to Opito as he planned.

By the time I got to Whangapoua, Brent was already there! Couldn’t believe it, but when I think about it I had to drive back over the hill to Coromandel then turn off to Whitianga back over another hill to get there. No other road for me to use! Never mind, he waited until I was on the beach to come in. Just started to video him coming, when he was dumped on the beach Oops!!

I still haven’t managed to find anywhere to stay tonight. We might have to freedom camp in his little tent again on the beach somewhere. Brent decided not to go kayaking tomorrow, so while I drove he rang around looking to somewhere to stay the night. Annoying everything is booked out, ended up staying in Waihi.

02/02/201910/01/2021

7. Beyond the Bridge – Matauri Bay to Pohutakawa Bay

28 December, 2018 – 05 January, 2019

This trips timing was solely geared around utilising the traditional leave period over Christmas and New Year to advance as far as I could down the coast towards Coromandel, weather permitting. Unsuitable weather did delay our departure from New Plymouth until Boxing Day when we made our way to set up base camp at Tutukaka. This would be our base for the next 6 nights.

After a day (27th Dec) in camp waiting out the persistent southerlies, we were fortunate to get on the water for eight of the following nine days and both of us were very happy to have advanced south of the Bridge at last, and put those travel woes through Auckland behind us.

THIS TRIP: Matauri Bay to Pohutakawa Bay 8 paddle days

Overall Distance 296.5 km Time 53.07 hrs Average Speed 5.6 km/hr

Friday, 28 December, 2018

Matauri Bay to Outu Bay

**Distance 48.2 km Time 8.7 hr Average speed 5.5 km/hr**

An early rise for the 2 hour commute to Matauri Bay. Encouraging to look down on calm conditions as we arrive.

1000hrs ……. the waiting is over ………… itching to get on the water now.

Rocky Point ahead and Cape Brett in the distance (top left)

Flat conditions for the launch with Secala laden for overnight camp. My intentions were to head for Deep Water Cove (just inside the Cape) for the night, where there was no road access.

Enjoyed light winds from NE all day. In the middle of the bay crossing I came across several large areas of discoloured water where dozens of petrels and JC (jesus christ) birds were eagerly feeding. I scooped out handfuls of these critters that appeared to be tiny krill. Largely transparent with clearly two eyes and overall no bigger than half a grain of rice.

A few of the jesus birds (White faced storm petrel) in the area. Cape Brett in the distance.

Approaching Cape Brett after 7 hours I decided to progress around the Cape and find a beach on the other side knowing there were options at Outu Bay, Te Toroa Bay or Whangamumu an hour or two paddle away.

Enjoyed a paddle through the “hole in the rock” with no other traffic

Ended up at the beautiful and sheltered Outu Bay being enjoyed by a couple of anchored boats. Paddled alongside and nattered to a women as she was rowing her dingy around the bay. Landed at the larger rocky beach, now in the evening shade, but there wasn’t any flat grassed areas to pitch a tent so headed across the bay to a small beach still in the evening sun, hoping to find a better place to camp.

Protected anchorage at Outu Bay. Camped on beach across the bay (middle left of picture)

Sizing up my beach camp at about 1900hrs

Setting up camp on rocks above the high water mark

The next morning ….. showing the overnight high tide mark

The tent site options were no better here but could at least enjoy the evening in the last of the days sun. A dehydrated feed of spaghetti bog and a chat to Brett from the nearby anchored yacht. Glad to have a good sleeping mat between me and the rocks tonight.

Shaz ……………… Up early this morning, left camp at 7am for Matauri Bay just on a 2 hr drive. Oops, ended up by telling Brent to go longer way by 9 minutes! Never said as I had already told him to change direction once!! Oh well we got there in good time! Arrived at Matauri Bay, never went via motor camp this time not getting another $10 out of me! There is a large turning bay next to camp with a sign ‘No PARKING AT ALL TIMES’, needless to say we parked there unloaded and packed the kayak ready for Brent. Then I went and parked in the public car park and walked down to the beach to meet Brent!

He was on the water by 10am! I left there and drove back up the road and turned left onto road by shop/cafe. Great views from up here, but no where to stop and park for photos; all privately owned homes, but I tried from inside the Ute (photos not too bad)

Stopped at Kerikeri and went to supermarket, OMG what a difference a couple of weeks make! It’s so busy people and traffic everywhere. On my way back to Tutakaka I decided that I’d go back via the Bay of Islands and have some lunch at Paihia. I thought Kerikeri was busy but not a patch on Paihia; parking is a joke hard to find; people driving round and round the car park! But not me someone pulled out and I pulled in!! Some good person even paid for parking for 1hr for several people leaving tickets on top of pay machine! Good day, enough time for me to get some lunch at the Craft Bar & Kitchen on the waterfront.

I thought I’d drive down to Opua and have a look to see if Owen Glen’s private boat is still docked here. Chris told Brent that Sam was head cook on board, sure enough it was still there. Apparently it has engine problems or something, I asked a guy who was about to board if Sam Sharp was onboard. She was; so he went and told her that I was outside. She was busy preparing lunch for 8 people so we didn’t have long, just a quick hello and catch up! Owen Glen was onboard with his guests.

Back at camp and the place is really filling up now! Brent messaged me at 7.06pm to say he had landed at Outu Bay for the night!

Saturday, 29 December, 2018

Outu Bay to Woolleys Bay

**Distance 46.2 km Time 9.0 hr Average speed 5.1 km/hr**

Surprisingly good sleep on the rocks despite waking twice during the night ……… and a peek outside to check on the rising tide!

Up at 5.30 to my usual “getaway” breakfast of muesli, banana and protein shake before decamping. On the water just after 7.

Beautiful calm clear morning. Couldn’t check my usual forecast apps without the internet however once settled on my way to Home Point the VHF nowcasting broadcast South 10kt dying away with NE in afternoon. However a southerly 8 – 10 persisted all day which accounted for a slower pace today.

Another beautiful coast though. Prominent Home Pt had a good surge around it and passed within a few meters of a couple of cruising sharks just off the point. One of them was rather large and thankfully paid no attention to me.

Approaching Home Point. Danger Rock and Rimariki Island in the distance.

Pasted within a few meters of some locals fishing from their boat but they weren’t at all friendly. The intimidating Danger Rock had a few fishing boats surrounding it.

Although well hydrated I started to feel tired after 7 hours and passing Whananaki. After a bit of Christmas cake and a peanut slab I was all good to go again.

Motutohe Island just before the rounding to Whananaki

Passing inside Elizabeth Reef and line of sight to Woolleys Bay, I tried to reach Shaz via VHF. Wasn’t sure which of the beaches to head for until I got a lot closer. Another 9 hour day but less miles covered.

Arrived Woolleys Bay and short trip back to Tutukaka camp for the night

What a beaut bay. Later found out that my brother used to give surf lessons here back in the day. A surf school still operates on this beach. Nice to have only an 8km drive return to Tutukaka camp.

Shaz …………. It’s only 6.15am and all is quiet in the camp, why aren’t you sleeping Sharon! At 6.30am I went and had a shower, first in gets the warm shower and no queue’s! The sun is pouring into the tent, gorgeous morning! Did a little bit of washing today, then I went for a walk into Tutukaka! Walked around the marina, some flash boats here lots of money, lots! Got a coffee and sat down watching everyone boarding a boat for some tour.

Had a quiet time reading at camp while waiting for Brent to let me know where to pick him up. He rang and pick up at 3pm from Woolley Bay. Lots of swimmers and boaties here today having lots of fun in the water. One boat even drove down the road, onto the beach and straight into the water!

Brent got in around 4pm!

Routine of securing the deck before surf re-entry

Have a little picnic ready for him, as after 9 hrs paddling he might need it!

Back at camp, unpack, sit and relax for a bit before getting dinner ready. Boy they have packed the campers in tonight!! A couple of guys here with bloody drones, very annoying for a lot of campers!

Sunday, 30 December, 2018

Woolleys Bay to Ocean Beach

**Distance 37.3 km Time 5.8 hr Average speed 6.4 km/hr**

No rush this morning as theres only a 6 hr paddle planned to Bream Head and a small commute to launch at Woolleys Bay.

Another clear and calm day with easy launch. This is to good to be true. If the whole coast was like this everybody would be doing it.

Very enjoyable paddle close to bluffs and shoals around Tutukaka Head.

Tutukaka Head …….. (Taiharuru Head faintly in the background)

Cruised past Tutukaka harbour entrance dodging the flash boats and headed for Taiharuru point across Ngunguru Bay. Sent a txt to Shaz in case she was having a morning coffee by the marina.

Rounding Tutukaka, the prominent and familiar Bream Head destination came into view.

A whisper of a northerly was welcome after yesterday which gradually increased to 8-10kts. So much easier paddling.

Approaching Ocean Beach …………. Prominent Bream Head on the left

Arrived at Ocean beach a little ahead of schedule. Surfers to the right and a patrolled swimming area on the left. Shaz guided me in expertly saying to head for “Rip” sign she was standing beside …….. while I was still 2k away! Caught a ride in at the bottom of a nice wave before bracing into the beach as it broke. Happy to stay in tact in front of a busy beach of on-lookers. Shaz was impressed.

Only down side was the long drag of the Secala over soft sand to the car park. A place to return to for sure

Shaz …………….. Not much chance of sleep in this morning, with the birds singing and the cows mooing! Went for early shower (at 6.15am) to beat the rush, another lady had the same thought! Put my 50 cents in, NO hot water bloody cold shower! Thought maybe I had put money in wrong slot (for shower next to me), knocked on the door and asked if she had hot water, her reply was ‘NO it’s f…ing cold…’! Not a good start to the day!

Very, very noisy calf can’t find its mum! Drove Brent to Woolleys Bay and he was on the water by 8.30am. Beautiful morning, just a few people walking their dogs along the beach, couple of joggers and a kayak fisherman just come in with his catch of the day.

Photo above taken from Whale Bay carpark, looking down on Brent between the trees!

Went for coffee and breakfast at Schnappers Rock cafe and this van was parked outside, what can I say!! Went back to camp, and Daniel rang! He couldn’t get over how great it looked here, the sun shining and they are freezing in Paris! Never mind they’ll be here in 10 days time! Did a bit of reading before heading to Ocean Beach at the Whangarei Heads. About an hours drive, passing through some lovely bays and a good view of Marsden Point across the harbour. Brent arrived about 2.30pm at Ocean Beach, very busy beach life guards on duty. Waves dumping on the beach, but Brent mastered it no problem.

Ocean Beach ………helmet for surf re-enrty ………….. wary of timing the kayak exit

Surf always looks different from the beach

Coffee at McLeods Bay on the way back to Tutakaka.

Weary but content after another enjoyable day on the water ……. and another Shaz picnic to look forward to.

Monday, 31 December, 2018

Ocean Beach to Langs Beach

**Distance 24.0 km Time 4.2 hr Average speed 5.7 km/hr**

A one hour ride back to Ocean beach this morning. Looks like another great day to be had on the water. Felt more at home launching through some surf and taking a couple over the bow today. Morning surfers bid me a safe trip.

Had spoken to Lynn Paterson about a possible arrival at Mangawhai. Although she hadn’t any first hand info she kindly got back to me with some good information from a kayaker friend she had who lived there. However, we later found out that there was a large New Years eve event being held there, so we decided to avoid this place. Lang’s Beach was the new destination.

Approaching Bream Head ………….. Taranga Island (Hen & Chicks Islands) on the left.

Rounded Bream Head to a calm Bream Bay until about a third of the way across when I saw an ominous layer of gray clouds rolling in from the west. Sure enough, within minutes, this brought in moderate SW head winds (12-15kts) and its associated chop. Turned Secala enough to put the chop off the bow for a smoother ride. Ground out the next couple of hours until the wind and chop abated as I closed in on the lee of Langs Beach. A bit of an unexpected grind today but glad to get across the open expanse of Bream Bay.

Clocked up my first 1000km on arrival on this leg in 27 paddle days at an average 6.13km/hr

Shaz …………. Later start today, leave camp at 8am, and arrive at Ocean Beach at 9am. By the time we pack the kayak and Brent’s drags it down to the beach; he finally gets on the water at 9.00am.

Plenty of surfers this morning, the day trippers are starting to turn up and claiming their spot on the beach.

I stopped at McLeods Bay for coffee at ‘The Deck’ cafe, with views across the bay!

I’m picking Brent up at Lang’s Beach today, as I have to go through Whangarei on the way I’ll do some shopping for Brent. He wants a flag for his kayak and some jandles as his broke last night! It’s a 40 minutes drive to Lang’s beach from Whangarei, heading south. Brent arrived at Lang’s beach about 2pm.

Well it’s New Years Eve, but I don’t think we will be up to see it in; too tired. We walked into Tutulaka an had a beer at the Fishing Club and then had pizza at the Marina Pizza Bar & Grill.

Tuesday, 01 January, 2019

Langs Beach to Goat Island

**Distance 37.0 km Time 7.0 hr Average speed 5.3 km/hr**

January 1st and we are not in any hurry today. Packing up camp and leaving Tutukaka is another nice marker as we continue our march down the coast. A little tired of the travelling involved with the base camp strategy, we decide to use the comfort of a motel in Wellsford for a couple of nights that is central for the next couple of days paddling.

Didn’t start out from Lang’s until 1145. With a late start and the prospect of afternoon SW’lies, wasn’t sure how much paddling I would get in today. Although I do have the ability to hug the beach all the way to Goat Island, decisions will be made on the water today with possible exit points at Mangawhai, Te Arai or Pakiri.

Rounded the shelter of Bream Tail into a steady SW 12-13kts. Asked Shaz to check in with me from Mangawhai

Coming in close to Sentinel Rock and watchful of the surf at the Mangawhai bar I advised Shaz that I would catch up with her at the next road access at Te Arai Point.

Sentinel Rock guarding the entrance to Mangawhai

There were only a few accessible exits on this stretch of coastline so Shaz followed me to each one in case I was ready to call it quits for the day.

Hugging the coast all the way to Te Arai with the wind and chop ahead of the beam was a pain and with 3 more hours to Goat Island I seriously considered pulling in here.

Chatted with Shaz on a crowded beach and decided that I would continue to Goat Island. The slight change in direction to Goat Island (about 25 degrees) put the wind and chop (gusting 15kt) more on the beam which made a big difference to the paddling effort. Hopefully it would remain that way till I got to Goat Island.

Got to Goat tired but pleased with the decision to push through. Looking forward to a motel bed!

Shaz ……….. Pack up camp day today, leaving Tutulaka after 6 nights! Driving to Lang’s Beach for Brent to launch for Goat Island. Late launch today about 11.45pm, Brent wants to aim for Goat Island, but the wind is up! I’m going to drive to Mangawhai Heads to make contact on VHF and see how he is going!

OMG, Mangawhai is fair pumping, so many people parking is a joke! Again luck was on my side, drove straight into park as nice man said he was leaving, thank you! Had lunch at Sandbar cafe and had a little walk around. I was heading to the Mangawhai Surf club when Brent called on VHF to say he was just going past, no chance of park here, but I did see him going past from the ute! He said that he would come in at Te Arai Point as the wind was up! To get to Te Arai Point access is via a gravel road, so much traffic coming and going! The car parks are over flowing, cars parked along both sides of the road; one way traffic only – ridiculous!! I parked illegally and called Brent on VHF. I told him the situation, said I’d wait for a park! So many people in a small space; who would believe it. A surfer who comes here every day, said he’s never seen it this busy before! Patience eventually pays off, got a park in the main car park. Brent much closer, I told him the waves were big, great for the surfers though. Brent decided to go on to Goat Island after all! I went for a walk over towards the big rock as I saw a walk way over the other side! Saw a great water hole/ small for kids to swim safely! I went on over the hill and saw Brent come around the corner, called him and wished him luck!

What better place to get changed, but on top of rock at Te Arai beach!

Safe swimming beach/hole for kids!

Beach on other side of rock at Te Arai Point

Crazy, jumping off rock into tidal pool! Arrived at Goat Island around 6pm, contacted Brent on VHF, but couldn’t see him!

Seagulls having happy time in pool of water

Landing on Goat Island beach around 6.50pm.

Lama sculptures made from tin, awesome!

Wednesday, 02 January, 2019

Goat Island to Waiwera

**Distance 42.7 km Time 7.9 hr Average speed 5.4 km/hr**

Arrived as Goat Island was just getting busy for the day and launched between swimming kids at about 9.30. Intending to reach Army or Shakespear Bay on the Whangaparaoa Peninsula today.

Calm around Cape Rodney and easy paddling to Tataku point. Just an easy SW 10 headwind so far.

Plenty of tidal stream turbulence at Tataku. LW was at 1115hrs so had timed well the flood assist though Kawau’s North channel. There was a steep “wind against tide” chop through the channel. Still managed a good speed. Needed to be watchful of all the boats. Glad to be sporting my new flag.

Made for Takangaroa Island for a rest and lunch and discuss next strategy with Shaz.

Takangaroa Island with Kawau Island in the background.

Still unsure if I could make Army bay against the headwind now gusting 15kts.

Continued to hug the shoreline down to Mahurangi Harbour in an attempt to get a better angle with the wind to maybe consider the 2 hour dash across Whangaparaoa Bay to Army Bay.

There seemed no respite in a strenthening wind blowing parallel with the shoreline. After battling to Big Bay and pulling into the beach, I called Shaz to meet me at Waiwera.

Big Bay just outside Mahurangi Harbour. Hard to imagine a descent wind around the point. Saddle Island behind the boats.

A hard day at the office today. Glad to pull into Waiwera. As I approached the beach a guy asked me to go and check on his mate who had swum out to check on a snagged longline. Found him and he was glad to have a rest holding onto Secala. After clearing the line and starting to tow him back to the beach his mate arrived in a boat to pick him up.

Shaz ……….. Brent let me sleep in this morning, so quiet no birds, no cows and no other campers!! Then we had breakfast at Caffe Cozy, couple of minutes walk away. Then we left for Goat Island so Brent can continue with this part of his adventure! Late start today, oh well!

Looking down at Goat Island from Cape Rodney Road

Enjoying a coffee at the Sawmill Cafe in Leigh, before heading back to Wellsford.

I think if we’re all honest, we have spent sometime on or in the ‘Funny Farm’!!

Traffic through Wellsford at 12.40 pm, guess holidays are over for some folk! Had a relaxing afternoon at the motel, waiting for Brent to call to say where he wanted to be picked up! He rang at 4.50pm and said that he would be coming into Waiwera beach in an hour. I said that I’d leave now as traffic was bad! It was 35 minutes drive normally! Got to Dome Valley lookout and traffic came to a complete stop. We crawled our way through Warkworth, 45 minutes, so needless to say I was going to be late! Got there finally, Brent was waiting for me to tell him where to come in!

Waiwera beach, looking across to Auckland.

Once we were all packed up and Brent changed we had dinner at Sugar Loaf Waiwera before we came back to motel

Thursday, 03 January, 2019

Waiwera to Gulf Harbour

**Distance 21.5 km Time 3.66hr Average speed 5.9 km/hr**

Checked out of the Wellsford motel and headed to Cafe for breakie. Ordered eggs bene ………. which was a mistake! It was smothered in hollandaise out of a squeeze bottle. Coffee was good though.

Launched from Waiwera at about 8.40 and had the 10-12kt SW just behind my stbd beam which gave me an assist and good speed till I got to Huaroa Point at the end of the Whangaparaoa Peninsula. Hoping to make it at least to Takapuna today if I could escape the worst of the forecast SW’lies.

Rounding the peninsula the SW intensified to 20+kts. Called Shaz to say I was going to bail at Gulf harbour.

Had a look around Gulf Harbour Marina before exiting at the “poor mans” boat ramp.

Short day today but can’t complain with weather offering up 7 straight paddle days. Forecast tomorrow not promising – SW 30kts.

Shaz ……….. Up early, packed and drove to Waiwera beach. Staying at Takapuna tonight.
Brent looking like a clown face today with his zinc on his lips!

Brent launched about 8.30am heading for Takapuna beach, so long as the conditions (wind) ok!

Heading for Whangaparaoa peninsula in the distance

Lovely drive around the coast to Orewa where I stopped for a while and looked around the shops on the beach front.

It’s been along time since I have been to Orewa, it changed a lot! It was always busy, but times that by 10! Parking in the town a nightmare! I got a takeaway coffee and muffin then found a picnic table down by beach.

Left Orewa and headed for Takapuna beach driving along SH25, then headed across to Browns Bay. Beaches very busy, so drove up to Waiake beach. Parked up and read my book for a while, until Brent contacted me an said it was hard work paddling today and he was going to come in at Gulf Harbour, on the Whangaparaoa Peninsula and he’d be there in 20 minutes. Bugger, I was 30 minutes away!never mind, back north I go! He was already up by the boat ramp when I arrived at 1pm.

Loaded up and headed for our motel in Takapuna.

Saturday, 05 January, 2019

Gulf Harbour to Pohutakawa Bay

**Distance 39.6 km Time 6.8hr Average speed 5.8 km/hr**

Forced off the water yesterday as the predicted SW 30kt for the Gulf played out. Today’s forecast was for early SW turning N during the day.

Earlier 0715 start today from Gulf Harbour boat ramp. Calm conditions in the gulf as I set off for the west side of Rangitoto Island. An 0800 HW meant I would be having an ebbing tide against me for the day. Made some enquires about going through Gardiners Gap on the east side of Rangitoto but the required high tide time didn’t suit today.

Kept a keen eye out for shipping that I intended to keep well away from. Didn’t need to worry about them so much as the speedy pilot boat that came unnecessarily close to me as I approached A buoy. Twats!

Some day trippers fishing off the stern of a large charter boat.

Shaz txt to say she was going over the bridge for the last time as I was rock hopping against a swift tide around the west side of Rangitoto. A real moment to savour for both of us.

Beacon marking shoaling at western extremity of Rangitoto

At the south end of Rangitoto I kept a keen eye on the channel that the Waiheke fast ferries were taking and gapped it for Brown’s Island when it was clear in both directions. Glad to be through these congested waters without any heart stopping moments.

Pulled into Brown’s Island for an early lunch (rice and tuna) and reassess the days destination. Had suggested to Shaz that I would meet her at Eastern Beach for lunch. The predicted northerly was now just kicking in so said to Shaz that I would save myself a detour and cut straight across to Pohutakawa Bay at Beachlands and that I would be there in about an hour and a half.

Brown’s Island with Rangitoto in the background.

The northerly increased to 12kt to assist me meeting my scheduled ETA with Shaz. This marks the end of this excursion north with some good miles made courtesy of some favourable weather. Can’t complain at getting eight out of a possible nine days on the water. Couldn’t happen on the west coast! We were both upbeat now about being south of the Bridge and some shorter return travel distances for a while at least. Next trip ……. across the Firth of Thames and down the Coromandel coast. Can’t wait!

Shaz ………… Early start today from Gulf Harbour! Brent set off around 7.15am for Eastern Beach.

Just off the boat ramp at Gulf Harbour

Looking across to the Northshore

Just because you’re on holiday, doesn’t mean you can’t do exercise on your bike (set up like an Exercycle).

Arrived at Eastern beach around 12.20pm, after doing a bit of shopping at Botany Downs. Brent contacted me a little after to say he had stopped on Brown Island for a snack and was going to go onto Beachlands rather than Eastern beach to come in! I went onto my sisters place waiting for Brent to contact me with a time to meet him. Got a text arriving at Beachlands at 2.45pm, and sure enough that’s when he arrived.

This is his last day in the water, until he has a long weekend or leave! We stayed at my sisters for the night before heading home the next day! This is his last day in the water, until he has a long weekend or leave!

02/02/201910/01/2021

6. Downhill Cruising – Tapotupotu Bay to Matauri Bay

11 – 15 December, 2018

A reasonably favourable forecast for this week was enough motivation to return northward to complete some unfinished business (North Cape) and make some impression down the East coast, at last, that would start to knock a dent in our lengthy road trip travel times.

It was bloody good to be able to look forward to the possibility of several paddle days unencumbered by marginal surf and weather conditions.

There was no real destination objective in mind for this week as I planned to enjoy some of the spectacular coastline and do some soft bait fishing along the way.

Again, we split the road trip over Monday and Tuesday (10th & 11th). All the way to Pakaraka on Monday to stay at Fredi and Brians lovely country home allowing an early arrival on Tuesday at Hihi Campground to set up our base for this trip.

I wanted to get to Tapotupotu Bay early that afternoon to make use of favourable wind and tide towards Te Huka Bay at the western end of Tom Bowling Bay ……….

THIS TRIP: Tapotupotu Bay to Matauri Bay 5 paddle days

Overall Distance 170.5km Time 30.5 Average Speed 5.6km/hr

Tuesday, 11 December, 2018

Tapotupotu Bay to Tom Bowling Bay

**Distance 25.6 km Time 3.6 hr Average speed 7.1 km/hr**

Arrived at beautiful Tapotupotu Bay at 1330 to conditions as forecast. A light SW breeze and low NE swell. Low sets were hitting the beach on an otherwise flat sea. Welcome contrast from west coast conditions.

Tapotupotu Beach – On arrival its always good to see the actual conditions match the forecast

Loading up Secala for a solo overnighter at Tom Bowling Bay. Fishing rod on deck!

Secala, laden for a solo overnighter, ploughed through a couple of waves to ensure a wet start to this trip. After the pre-paddle routine and farewell to Shaz, I set off round the point and the tidal assist.

Took a moment to look back at the majestic Cape Reinga (3km astern) with a strong sense of relief and satisfaction that it was now firmly behind me.

Settled into my rhythm and was easily averaging 7.5km/hr. As Hooper Point approached at the east end of Spirit Bay, so did some turbulent water that focussed my attention. After setting up the softbait rig I went in close to the wash and on the first cast got a snapper. Magic!

As I approached Te Huka Bay at the western end of Tom Bowling Bay I figured I had plenty of time to paddle another hour to the eastern end of the beach that would shorten the longer day to Rarawa tomorrow and have a better chance of timing the morning slack water at North Cape (LW 0700hrs) .

From a couple of kms out of Tom Bowling I could see an obvious structure like a hut at the end of the beach. Turned out to be some framework for a shelter.

Camp set in great location. Evidence suggests horseback is the key means of access to this area. Fishing trawler in background.

Camp set to enjoy the sunset. Mug of tea and messaged Shaz on the Inreach.

Enjoying the sunset. Hoopers Point (Spirits Bay) is the more distant point.

After spag bog dinner I went for a cast off the rocks and caught a couple of kahawai. As the sun set the first sign of mozzies appeared. Hurridly packed up and got into the tent just in time as I swear, not one, but two million huge mozzies are clinging to the outside of the tent insect mesh. If I went outside now the mozzies would siphon all of my blood in about 5 seconds flat. I’m happily trapped in the tent till morning. Planning on a dawn start tomorrow to catch the slack tide at North Cape.

Shaz …………. Up early and on the road to Hihi Beach Motor camp and set up camp with Brent’s help! Then drive 2.25hrs to Tapotupatu Bay where Brent can start his kayak adventure again. He will be camping over night at Tom Bowling Bay.
I will drive back to Hihi Beach for the night. On the way up we saw a bunch of police at the airstrip up from Waikiki Landing. Only noticed them as I stopped at the top of hill to get cellphone range, only one bar. I moved in quickly as it didn’t look good Brent holding his phone looking in their direction.

As I saw him off at Tapotupatu Bay they turned up there. Talked to one of them said ‘I like your uniform (police shirt, vest, stubbies and work boots). I said ‘my son would approve of his choice’, he laughed and said to damn hot to wear what those guys are wearing (full uniform or overalls).

Tonight there was a evening market in Mangonui, so went in for a look and walk around, then back to camp!

Wednesday, 12 December, 2018

Tom Bowling Bay to Rarawa Beach

**Distance 45.0 km Time 8.0 hr Average speed 5.6 km/hr**

An early rise (0430) to be ready for a dawn launch. Mozzies still covered my insect netting but none penetrated the barrier during the night thank god. Muesli, banana and protein shake for breakfast and after putting on the wet paddle gear, covered my remaining exposed skin with repellent.

Was fully packed up and launched through low surf by 0600hrs. Sent message via Inreach to Shaz and off with anticipation to North Cape where I intended to stop and climb up to the lighthouse.

Under the grey gloom of early morning the spectacular Surville cliffs were intimidating and moody. The conditions allowed me to hug the cliffs (within 100m) as there was minimal surf backwash.

Stoked to finally see North Cape emerge and my timing for the low slack water was perfect.

A calm rounding of the Cape and landed on the south side of the tidal isthmus that links Murimotu Island with the mainland.

Rocky isthmus between Murimotu Island (behind) and the mainland.

Attempted to climb to the lighthouse but only got half way up as the bush whacking got too hard and time consuming. I was wary that Secala wasn’t far up the rocky beach on a rising tide.

View south of the Cape to Waikuku Beach (top left)

Towards Surville Cliffs further west around the point

Re-launched an hour later to a brightening day and light winds. The tide will generally be against me all day but who cares on a great day with no deadlines.

A last look at North Cape before heading off on a 6 hour paddle south across Great Exhibition Bay

After an uneventful paddle down Great Exhibition Bay I finally made weak VHF contact with Shaz where I thought Rarawa beach was. Shaz couldn’t see me approaching and after a few minutes of confusion realised that I had set my GPS destination for the next beach north. I had another 3km to go. Soon enough Shaz could see me and guided me in. It looked an easy enough surf re-enty however my complacency caught me out as a larger than expected wave rose up behind me before I could set myself. My first re-entry on the East coast and I took an embarrassing dumping. An hour and a half drive back to civilisation at Hihi Camp.

Shaz …………. Spent the night at Hihi Beach camp on my own, bloody noisey tourists! In camper vans with sliding doors, open close on and on then slam the damn thing shut! Then 2.05am the volunteer fire service alarm goes off, seems like a long time at that hour if the morning.
Got up about 7am, spent the morning at camp. Made some sandwiches for Brent, filled the thermos and left for Rarawa beach. Went into Mangonui about midday and had coffee on the waterfront, very nice! Then headed off to pick Brent up at Rarawa beach. So much road works up this way and so many police around this area.
Arrived at beach no sign off Brent anywhere and couldn’t reach him on VHF either. A few tourists around, just walking along the beach! Probably wondering what this women was doing sitting on top of sand dune in her bright red chair, with a VHF radio, cellphone, binoculars, small emergency flashing torch thingy and a cup of coffee. I wasn’t able to see on the inReach tracking where he was, not sure if Brent has turned it on! Anyway I pushed the button that said location and it replied it could take up to 20minutes to 5 days to get a reply! Fortunately for me it was like 10 minutes and he was just up the coast around that corner. He finally got me on VHF, and realised that he had about another 3km to go, so 2pm pick up turned into 3pm! All good, at least he was safe. Which is more than I can say for him coming in! He was doing well, but then miss judged the waves and capsized! Oh well you can’t win them all!

So much for the East Coast ‘being a piece of cake compared to the West Coast’.
Had his lunch and then headed back to Hihi.

Thursday, 13 December, 2018

Rarawa Beach to Maitai Bay

**Distance 38.9 km Time 6.4 hr Average speed 6.1 km/hr**

Another good forecast today for the stretch across Rangaunu Bay.

After the return journey to Rarawa beach, an easy launch but still managed to get a drenching through a couple of breaking waves. A much lighter kayak today with all my solo camping gear and extra water removed. Felt strong all the way across the Bay enjoying the company of several jesus christ (walk on water) birds or white faced storm petrels. Approaching Cape Karikari I became increasingly aware of several areas of shoaling and turbulent water to the point, when rounding the Cape, the washing machine effect became quite intimidating. Was much more difficult than North Cape and a salient reminder not to take any “Cape” too lightly.

Relieved to be around this corner and heading for the safety of Maitai Bay. What a beautiful bay. Was tiring over the last hour of this trip realising that I hadn’t hydrated enough during the day.

Shaz directed me to a boat ramp around Maitai Point and the easiest landing I’ve had since leaving New Plymouth.

Support crew marking the landing zone and directing shore procedures

A shorter 45 minute drive back to Hihi Camp today

Shaz …………. Left early for Rarawa beach so Brent could get a good start to the day. He is heading for Matai Bay, should take about 5 – 5.5 hrs. He launched at 8.25am, got out well, waves looked a little big but manageable!

Stopped at Mangonui on the way back at Waterfront Cafe for coffee and scone, best Cappuccino in the Far North so far! Awesome view across the bay and very relaxing.

Had a little walk around the township, a bit of window shopping, located the Information Centre and got a map for Matai Bay Area. Driving back saw an interesting little shop ‘Flax Bush’, had to stop and have a look. No window shopping here, made a purchase! Brought a lovely top, nice and cool for the summer! Then back to Hihi Beach camp, rest up and do some reading before heading to Matai Bay around 3pm.
Made some sandwiches for Brent, filled the thermos and left for Matai Bay to pick Brent up around 1.30pm, a good 40-45 minute trip plus a couple of stops on the way. So hot, need an ice cream and got fresh water for Brent. What a beautiful bay, some campers have already arrived for there summer break and others look like they has just set up to claim there spot!
Saw Brent come around the point towards Matai Bay, told him to go further around the other side to the boat ramp. Easier to get the kayak up to the ute. Brent arrived safely on the beach today, No big waves to dump him onto the beach, very very calm watered in the bay!

Once we were loaded up we went up to camp ground area and had a late lunch and Brent went for a swim before heading back to Hihi.

Friday, 14 December, 2018

Maitai Bay to Tauranga Bay

**Distance 45.0km Time 8.0hrs Average Speed 5.6km/hr**

Just like the landing, the launch was like being on a lake. A false start however when I realised I had skinned my finger on a rock during the launch. A quick patch-up by the multi-skilled shore crew and I was away again through the “relentless” surf!

Great weather forecast again but aware that the general tidal flow will be against me most of the day.

Just out of Maitai Bay, Knuckle Point, at the north end of Doubtless Bay, had a good surge and back wash to stay clear of. Set my sights straight across Doubtless Bay towards Cone Rock while focussing more on better hydration today. Lost a peanut slab over the side as I was fumbling with gear on deck. Gutted!

While crossing the Doubtless bight a mollymawk repeatedly came skiing in to come close alongside for a nosey. Maybe he scored with my peanut slab and wanted more…..

Keen for another peanut slab! Can’t blame the bugger.

Cone Rock with Stephensons Island in the centre background

After 7 hours in the saddle, felt much better today most likely due to better hydration. As I approached Taupo Bay and contacted Shaz I said I would push on to Tauranga Bay which was only about another hours paddle away. Drank nearly 5 litres today averaging 600ml per hour.

Shaz ……………. Up early and left camp for Matai Bay arriving just before 7.30am. Brent set by 7.56am at one of in the calmest conditions ever, ripples rather than waves! He was just sitting there, then he called and asked me to get something to dry his hand with as he was bleeding cut his finger on a shell or something while launching himself! A good cut bleeding like a bugger! Dried it off best as we could and applied gauze and taped tightly to stop bleeding! Then back into the kayak with a little push from me and he was off once again!

Stopped in at Mangonui on way back for breakfast and coffee at the Waterfront Cafe (French toast, bacon and blueberries). Arrived back at camp and have the place to myself, so quiet!
Left at 1pm for Taupo Bay to pick up Brent, he should be arriving about 2.30 – 3pm. Packed the usual lunch, thermos etc. What a beautiful spot Taupo Bay is! Parked beside the only tree along the beach front for a bit of shade, got my chair out, made coffee and relaxed. Brent is taking longer than expected, never mind! People watching is a great past time, local family having lots of fun swimming, couple of German girls next to me smoking, swimming, sunbathing in next to nothing and then talking to family or friends back home on FaceTime! Another family arrived with surf board and paddle boards, old couple swimming with their boggie boards.
When Brent finally made contact he had decided to go on to Tauranga Bay rather than here! Really, after waiting so patiently!!
Packed up and headed for Tauranga Bay, GPS said 33km and 35 minutes to get there! WRONG! Ended up using my phone as GPS stop at the turn off, so ended up turning the wrong way. Wasted a good 15 minutes! By the time I got to Tauranga Bay, Brent was already sitting out in the bay wondering where I was!!
Never mind, all good in the end!

On our way back we decided to go to Mangonui Fish Shop (supposed to be famous) for tea. The most expensive fish and chips I’ve ever had, but nice!
Brent celebrated with a bottle of beer!
A few more campers at Hihi tonight, with morpork talking, tui singing and one cackling “old hen” from the motorhome groups down the way!! That group has made more noise than any of the young folk that having been staying here!

Saturday, 15 December, 2018

Tauranga Bay to Matauri Bay

**Distance 16km Time 4.5hrs Average Speed 3.6km/hr**

Packed up at Hihi camp today and only planned the short paddle to Matauri Bay before checking in at Kerikeri for the night and heading home tomorrow. Planned to have a cruisey day fishing among the rocks.

Enjoyed plenty of rock hopping for a change today on a beautiful coastline rather than the recent point to point grind. eg Great Exhibition Bay, Rangaunu Bay.

Trip took two hours longer than it would normally take as I lingered around the rocky coastline littered with reefs and rocks awash to throw a softbait into. No fish today though.

Nice way to finish this northern trip which ranks as the best so far for enjoyable relaxing paddling and satisfying for some progress made.

Shaz ……………… Awake early this morning, can’t sleep on the one day Brent said I could as we weren’t leaving early this morning. Brent already up over at kitchen having his breakfast. Had my shower came back and started packing up, at least all the bedding. All packed up ready to lat 9.05am, going to Mangonui one last time for takeaway coffee! Then we head for Tauranga Bay for the last leg of trip this time. Brent is doing just a short paddle today, Matauri Bay about 3 hours for him although he said he may try a bit of fishing along the way.

What a beautiful drive to Matauri Bay, stopping at Te Ngaere reserve along the way. Driving on to Matauri Bay the views were stunning from on top of hill looking down onto Matauri Bay and across to the Cavalli Islands.

Arriving in the Bay there was a large car park on my right for public us, however the access to/from the beach for Brent to bring his kayak up would be hard in the soft sand. I drove on until I came to the General Store. As I arrived at Matauri Bay the police pulled up behind me, I thought really are they following me around the Far North! But no, there was already an Ambulance in the camp ground, not sure what’s going on here! I went into the General Store outside the campground and asked if there was a boat ramp along the beach, they said yes it’s inside the camp ground. I explained what Brent was doing and could I please get access through the camp to pick him up, yes no problem but that will be $10 please! It took me by surprise a little, but was told they normally charge $20 for a day pass to the camp ground. No worries I paid and parked up under a tree right on the beach front with a picnic table right beside me, perfect! It turned out that a diver had been attacked by a Mako shark over behind Motukawaiti Island. Not life threatening thank goodness. The Fire Service turned up as well just as the Ambulance was leaving, not sure what they were going to do!

I spent the afternoon enjoying Matauri Bay, beautiful scenery and lots of campers arriving, fishing boats & jet skis coming and going, large group of ground people arrive with lots of kayaks and the boom box belting out the music.

Brent arrived about 2.40pm, coming in was easy. We had coffee and Christmas cake before loading up all his gear. Then we headed for Kerikeri for the night of comfort in a motel. We stayed at STAY Kerikeri motel; really nice people own it and they had a swimming pool which Brent made the most of! We had a meal at ‘The Pear Tree’ café down next to the Old Stone Store. Next to the café was ‘Eekie’ Bespoke Art, she works mainly with leather and had just opened up her business there.

02/02/201910/01/2021

5. Far North – Hukatere to Tapotupotu Bay

19 – 22 October, 2018

The objective of this short excursion north was to round the three Capes (MVD, Reinga and North) in 3 paddle days from Hukatere. The return travel times to the Far North are such a grind that there needed to be some real benefit from making such a short paddle trip.

The prospect of clearing the West coast provided just the incentive.

Splitting the travel days between Friday and Saturday (19 & 20th) presented the option to get half a day paddling AGW.

Sunday (21st) and Monday (22nd) promised good paddle conditions with 1.3m surf conditions, light winds and an ebbing (north flowing) tide through the best part of the day (0800-1400). The plan was to utilise this strong tidal stream with the paddle north from Hukatere, through the Cape Maria van Diemen gap timing our arrival at Cape Reinga at slack tide (1400hrs).

The next day, the same tidal flow would assist with rounding North Cape if the forecast remained favourable. As it turned out I would only get in two paddle days …….. Continue reading “5. Far North – Hukatere to Tapotupotu Bay”

07/07/201810/01/2021

4. Progress North – Glinks Gully to Hukatere

25 – 29 March, 2018

This weeks forecasts showed guaranteed paddle days on Tuesday and Wednesday with surf subsiding from 1.8m on Sunday and Monday to less that 1.0m and calm conditions. From Wednesday the surf would be rising to 1.8m again. However with the week off work we made tracks north in the hope of getting as many days on the water as possible. With two good long paddle days on the cards my hopeful target destination is Shipwreck Bay, Ahipara. I know by now, that although targets are necessary, the obstacles are always dynamic. Every day is so different that you just don’t know where the week will end up. It turned out to be Hukatere this time ……. Continue reading “4. Progress North – Glinks Gully to Hukatere”

07/07/201810/01/2021

3. The Mighty Kaipara

12 – 15 February, 2018

This weeks forecasts looked good with paddleable days most of the week. The main objective was to get around the mighty Kaipara Harbour that was jangling my nerves a little as this would be the longest and most challenging paddle yet, in terms of, not only distance, but tidal currents, distance off shore, unknown territory, the notorious breaking bars and not many favourable B options if things didn’t go to plan.

Also, for the first time, Shaz was not going to be with me for most of the week as she returned to work after dropping me off through Rimmers Road access to North Muriwai Beach. This meant that I would be fully self sufficient for the first time. This provided the additional new challenges of significantly increased kayak weight, correct weight distribution and changed handling in the surf, that I had to get to grips with quickly.

Feeling more vulnerable without Shaz watching out for me, I fitted the sail, even though I had dismissed this experiment some time ago. It provided a remote but possible “means of escape” if west coast forecast conditions didn’t eventuate. They did, with a calm rounding of the bar and light afternoon headwinds before calm conditions returned in the evening. Continue reading “3. The Mighty Kaipara”

07/07/201810/01/2021

2. Fledgling – Kiritehere to North Muriwai

16 November – 01 December, 2017

It now feels that an adventure is unfolding. Planning nights away from home, work and family requires another level of organisation, extended weather forecasting, limited landing opportunities with vehicle access, check point and contingency planning. There is much more of a shared involvement and dependency now, as each leg is a voyage into new territory for both of us. Continue reading “2. Fledgling – Kiritehere to North Muriwai”

07/07/201810/01/2021

1. Baby Steps – Ngamotu Beach to Kiritehere

20 September – 27 October, 2017

Fortunately this section of the west coast offers many convenient vehicle access points. These first five short day trips in familiar territory were to take advantage of these and serve as a “shake out” period where the learning would be steep in my new (and first) SIK with new skills to hone, nutrition and hydration options to trial, while building some paddle fitness for the inevitable longer paddle days to come. Continue reading “1. Baby Steps – Ngamotu Beach to Kiritehere”