28 December, 2018 – 05 January, 2019
This trips timing was solely geared around utilising the traditional leave period over Christmas and New Year to advance as far as I could down the coast towards Coromandel, weather permitting. Unsuitable weather did delay our departure from New Plymouth until Boxing Day when we made our way to set up base camp at Tutukaka. This would be our base for the next 6 nights.
After a day (27th Dec) in camp waiting out the persistent southerlies, we were fortunate to get on the water for eight of the following nine days and both of us were very happy to have advanced south of the Bridge at last, and put those travel woes through Auckland behind us.
THIS TRIP: Matauri Bay to Pohutakawa Bay 8 paddle days
Overall Distance 296.5 km Time 53.07 hrs Average Speed 5.6 km/hr
Friday, 28 December, 2018
Matauri Bay to Outu Bay
An early rise for the 2 hour commute to Matauri Bay. Encouraging to look down on calm conditions as we arrive.
1000hrs ……. the waiting is over ………… itching to get on the water now.
Flat conditions for the launch with Secala laden for overnight camp. My intentions were to head for Deep Water Cove (just inside the Cape) for the night, where there was no road access.
Enjoyed light winds from NE all day. In the middle of the bay crossing I came across several large areas of discoloured water where dozens of petrels and JC (jesus christ) birds were eagerly feeding. I scooped out handfuls of these critters that appeared to be tiny krill. Largely transparent with clearly two eyes and overall no bigger than half a grain of rice.
Approaching Cape Brett after 7 hours I decided to progress around the Cape and find a beach on the other side knowing there were options at Outu Bay, Te Toroa Bay or Whangamumu an hour or two paddle away.
Enjoyed a paddle through the “hole in the rock” with no other traffic
Ended up at the beautiful and sheltered Outu Bay being enjoyed by a couple of anchored boats. Paddled alongside and nattered to a women as she was rowing her dingy around the bay. Landed at the larger rocky beach, now in the evening shade, but there wasn’t any flat grassed areas to pitch a tent so headed across the bay to a small beach still in the evening sun, hoping to find a better place to camp.
The tent site options were no better here but could at least enjoy the evening in the last of the days sun. A dehydrated feed of spaghetti bog and a chat to Brett from the nearby anchored yacht. Glad to have a good sleeping mat between me and the rocks tonight.
Shaz ……………… Up early this morning, left camp at 7am for Matauri Bay just on a 2 hr drive. Oops, ended up by telling Brent to go longer way by 9 minutes! Never said as I had already told him to change direction once!! Oh well we got there in good time! Arrived at Matauri Bay, never went via motor camp this time not getting another $10 out of me! There is a large turning bay next to camp with a sign ‘No PARKING AT ALL TIMES’, needless to say we parked there unloaded and packed the kayak ready for Brent. Then I went and parked in the public car park and walked down to the beach to meet Brent!
He was on the water by 10am! I left there and drove back up the road and turned left onto road by shop/cafe. Great views from up here, but no where to stop and park for photos; all privately owned homes, but I tried from inside the Ute (photos not too bad)
Stopped at Kerikeri and went to supermarket, OMG what a difference a couple of weeks make! It’s so busy people and traffic everywhere. On my way back to Tutakaka I decided that I’d go back via the Bay of Islands and have some lunch at Paihia. I thought Kerikeri was busy but not a patch on Paihia; parking is a joke hard to find; people driving round and round the car park! But not me someone pulled out and I pulled in!! Some good person even paid for parking for 1hr for several people leaving tickets on top of pay machine! Good day, enough time for me to get some lunch at the Craft Bar & Kitchen on the waterfront.
I thought I’d drive down to Opua and have a look to see if Owen Glen’s private boat is still docked here. Chris told Brent that Sam was head cook on board, sure enough it was still there. Apparently it has engine problems or something, I asked a guy who was about to board if Sam Sharp was onboard. She was; so he went and told her that I was outside. She was busy preparing lunch for 8 people so we didn’t have long, just a quick hello and catch up! Owen Glen was onboard with his guests.
Back at camp and the place is really filling up now! Brent messaged me at 7.06pm to say he had landed at Outu Bay for the night!
Saturday, 29 December, 2018
Outu Bay to Woolleys Bay
Surprisingly good sleep on the rocks despite waking twice during the night ……… and a peek outside to check on the rising tide!
Up at 5.30 to my usual “getaway” breakfast of muesli, banana and protein shake before decamping. On the water just after 7.
Beautiful calm clear morning. Couldn’t check my usual forecast apps without the internet however once settled on my way to Home Point the VHF nowcasting broadcast South 10kt dying away with NE in afternoon. However a southerly 8 – 10 persisted all day which accounted for a slower pace today.
Another beautiful coast though. Prominent Home Pt had a good surge around it and passed within a few meters of a couple of cruising sharks just off the point. One of them was rather large and thankfully paid no attention to me.
Pasted within a few meters of some locals fishing from their boat but they weren’t at all friendly. The intimidating Danger Rock had a few fishing boats surrounding it.
Although well hydrated I started to feel tired after 7 hours and passing Whananaki. After a bit of Christmas cake and a peanut slab I was all good to go again.
Passing inside Elizabeth Reef and line of sight to Woolleys Bay, I tried to reach Shaz via VHF. Wasn’t sure which of the beaches to head for until I got a lot closer. Another 9 hour day but less miles covered.
What a beaut bay. Later found out that my brother used to give surf lessons here back in the day. A surf school still operates on this beach. Nice to have only an 8km drive return to Tutukaka camp.
Shaz …………. It’s only 6.15am and all is quiet in the camp, why aren’t you sleeping Sharon! At 6.30am I went and had a shower, first in gets the warm shower and no queue’s! The sun is pouring into the tent, gorgeous morning! Did a little bit of washing today, then I went for a walk into Tutukaka! Walked around the marina, some flash boats here lots of money, lots! Got a coffee and sat down watching everyone boarding a boat for some tour.
Had a quiet time reading at camp while waiting for Brent to let me know where to pick him up. He rang and pick up at 3pm from Woolley Bay. Lots of swimmers and boaties here today having lots of fun in the water. One boat even drove down the road, onto the beach and straight into the water!
Brent got in around 4pm!
Have a little picnic ready for him, as after 9 hrs paddling he might need it!
Back at camp, unpack, sit and relax for a bit before getting dinner ready. Boy they have packed the campers in tonight!! A couple of guys here with bloody drones, very annoying for a lot of campers!
Sunday, 30 December, 2018
Woolleys Bay to Ocean Beach
No rush this morning as theres only a 6 hr paddle planned to Bream Head and a small commute to launch at Woolleys Bay.
Another clear and calm day with easy launch. This is to good to be true. If the whole coast was like this everybody would be doing it.
Very enjoyable paddle close to bluffs and shoals around Tutukaka Head.
Cruised past Tutukaka harbour entrance dodging the flash boats and headed for Taiharuru point across Ngunguru Bay. Sent a txt to Shaz in case she was having a morning coffee by the marina.
Rounding Tutukaka, the prominent and familiar Bream Head destination came into view.
A whisper of a northerly was welcome after yesterday which gradually increased to 8-10kts. So much easier paddling.
Arrived at Ocean beach a little ahead of schedule. Surfers to the right and a patrolled swimming area on the left. Shaz guided me in expertly saying to head for “Rip” sign she was standing beside …….. while I was still 2k away! Caught a ride in at the bottom of a nice wave before bracing into the beach as it broke. Happy to stay in tact in front of a busy beach of on-lookers. Shaz was impressed.
Only down side was the long drag of the Secala over soft sand to the car park. A place to return to for sure
Shaz …………….. Not much chance of sleep in this morning, with the birds singing and the cows mooing! Went for early shower (at 6.15am) to beat the rush, another lady had the same thought! Put my 50 cents in, NO hot water bloody cold shower! Thought maybe I had put money in wrong slot (for shower next to me), knocked on the door and asked if she had hot water, her reply was ‘NO it’s f…ing cold…’! Not a good start to the day!
Very, very noisy calf can’t find its mum! Drove Brent to Woolleys Bay and he was on the water by 8.30am. Beautiful morning, just a few people walking their dogs along the beach, couple of joggers and a kayak fisherman just come in with his catch of the day.
Photo above taken from Whale Bay carpark, looking down on Brent between the trees!
Went for coffee and breakfast at Schnappers Rock cafe and this van was parked outside, what can I say!! Went back to camp, and Daniel rang! He couldn’t get over how great it looked here, the sun shining and they are freezing in Paris! Never mind they’ll be here in 10 days time! Did a bit of reading before heading to Ocean Beach at the Whangarei Heads. About an hours drive, passing through some lovely bays and a good view of Marsden Point across the harbour. Brent arrived about 2.30pm at Ocean Beach, very busy beach life guards on duty. Waves dumping on the beach, but Brent mastered it no problem.
Coffee at McLeods Bay on the way back to Tutakaka.
Monday, 31 December, 2018
Ocean Beach to Langs Beach
A one hour ride back to Ocean beach this morning. Looks like another great day to be had on the water. Felt more at home launching through some surf and taking a couple over the bow today. Morning surfers bid me a safe trip.
Had spoken to Lynn Paterson about a possible arrival at Mangawhai. Although she hadn’t any first hand info she kindly got back to me with some good information from a kayaker friend she had who lived there. However, we later found out that there was a large New Years eve event being held there, so we decided to avoid this place. Lang’s Beach was the new destination.
Rounded Bream Head to a calm Bream Bay until about a third of the way across when I saw an ominous layer of gray clouds rolling in from the west. Sure enough, within minutes, this brought in moderate SW head winds (12-15kts) and its associated chop. Turned Secala enough to put the chop off the bow for a smoother ride. Ground out the next couple of hours until the wind and chop abated as I closed in on the lee of Langs Beach. A bit of an unexpected grind today but glad to get across the open expanse of Bream Bay.
Clocked up my first 1000km on arrival on this leg in 27 paddle days at an average 6.13km/hr
Shaz …………. Later start today, leave camp at 8am, and arrive at Ocean Beach at 9am. By the time we pack the kayak and Brent’s drags it down to the beach; he finally gets on the water at 9.00am.
Plenty of surfers this morning, the day trippers are starting to turn up and claiming their spot on the beach.
I stopped at McLeods Bay for coffee at ‘The Deck’ cafe, with views across the bay!
I’m picking Brent up at Lang’s Beach today, as I have to go through Whangarei on the way I’ll do some shopping for Brent. He wants a flag for his kayak and some jandles as his broke last night! It’s a 40 minutes drive to Lang’s beach from Whangarei, heading south. Brent arrived at Lang’s beach about 2pm.
Well it’s New Years Eve, but I don’t think we will be up to see it in; too tired. We walked into Tutulaka an had a beer at the Fishing Club and then had pizza at the Marina Pizza Bar & Grill.
Tuesday, 01 January, 2019
Langs Beach to Goat Island
January 1st and we are not in any hurry today. Packing up camp and leaving Tutukaka is another nice marker as we continue our march down the coast. A little tired of the travelling involved with the base camp strategy, we decide to use the comfort of a motel in Wellsford for a couple of nights that is central for the next couple of days paddling.
Didn’t start out from Lang’s until 1145. With a late start and the prospect of afternoon SW’lies, wasn’t sure how much paddling I would get in today. Although I do have the ability to hug the beach all the way to Goat Island, decisions will be made on the water today with possible exit points at Mangawhai, Te Arai or Pakiri.
Rounded the shelter of Bream Tail into a steady SW 12-13kts. Asked Shaz to check in with me from Mangawhai
Coming in close to Sentinel Rock and watchful of the surf at the Mangawhai bar I advised Shaz that I would catch up with her at the next road access at Te Arai Point.
There were only a few accessible exits on this stretch of coastline so Shaz followed me to each one in case I was ready to call it quits for the day.
Hugging the coast all the way to Te Arai with the wind and chop ahead of the beam was a pain and with 3 more hours to Goat Island I seriously considered pulling in here.
Chatted with Shaz on a crowded beach and decided that I would continue to Goat Island. The slight change in direction to Goat Island (about 25 degrees) put the wind and chop (gusting 15kt) more on the beam which made a big difference to the paddling effort. Hopefully it would remain that way till I got to Goat Island.
Got to Goat tired but pleased with the decision to push through. Looking forward to a motel bed!
Shaz ……….. Pack up camp day today, leaving Tutulaka after 6 nights! Driving to Lang’s Beach for Brent to launch for Goat Island. Late launch today about 11.45pm, Brent wants to aim for Goat Island, but the wind is up! I’m going to drive to Mangawhai Heads to make contact on VHF and see how he is going!
OMG, Mangawhai is fair pumping, so many people parking is a joke! Again luck was on my side, drove straight into park as nice man said he was leaving, thank you! Had lunch at Sandbar cafe and had a little walk around. I was heading to the Mangawhai Surf club when Brent called on VHF to say he was just going past, no chance of park here, but I did see him going past from the ute! He said that he would come in at Te Arai Point as the wind was up! To get to Te Arai Point access is via a gravel road, so much traffic coming and going! The car parks are over flowing, cars parked along both sides of the road; one way traffic only – ridiculous!! I parked illegally and called Brent on VHF. I told him the situation, said I’d wait for a park! So many people in a small space; who would believe it. A surfer who comes here every day, said he’s never seen it this busy before! Patience eventually pays off, got a park in the main car park. Brent much closer, I told him the waves were big, great for the surfers though. Brent decided to go on to Goat Island after all! I went for a walk over towards the big rock as I saw a walk way over the other side! Saw a great water hole/ small for kids to swim safely! I went on over the hill and saw Brent come around the corner, called him and wished him luck!
What better place to get changed, but on top of rock at Te Arai beach!
Safe swimming beach/hole for kids!
Beach on other side of rock at Te Arai Point
Crazy, jumping off rock into tidal pool! Arrived at Goat Island around 6pm, contacted Brent on VHF, but couldn’t see him!
Landing on Goat Island beach around 6.50pm.
Lama sculptures made from tin, awesome!
Wednesday, 02 January, 2019
Goat Island to Waiwera
Arrived as Goat Island was just getting busy for the day and launched between swimming kids at about 9.30. Intending to reach Army or Shakespear Bay on the Whangaparaoa Peninsula today.
Calm around Cape Rodney and easy paddling to Tataku point. Just an easy SW 10 headwind so far.
Plenty of tidal stream turbulence at Tataku. LW was at 1115hrs so had timed well the flood assist though Kawau’s North channel. There was a steep “wind against tide” chop through the channel. Still managed a good speed. Needed to be watchful of all the boats. Glad to be sporting my new flag.
Made for Takangaroa Island for a rest and lunch and discuss next strategy with Shaz.
Still unsure if I could make Army bay against the headwind now gusting 15kts.
Continued to hug the shoreline down to Mahurangi Harbour in an attempt to get a better angle with the wind to maybe consider the 2 hour dash across Whangaparaoa Bay to Army Bay.
There seemed no respite in a strenthening wind blowing parallel with the shoreline. After battling to Big Bay and pulling into the beach, I called Shaz to meet me at Waiwera.
A hard day at the office today. Glad to pull into Waiwera. As I approached the beach a guy asked me to go and check on his mate who had swum out to check on a snagged longline. Found him and he was glad to have a rest holding onto Secala. After clearing the line and starting to tow him back to the beach his mate arrived in a boat to pick him up.
Shaz ……….. Brent let me sleep in this morning, so quiet no birds, no cows and no other campers!! Then we had breakfast at Caffe Cozy, couple of minutes walk away. Then we left for Goat Island so Brent can continue with this part of his adventure! Late start today, oh well!
Looking down at Goat Island from Cape Rodney Road
Enjoying a coffee at the Sawmill Cafe in Leigh, before heading back to Wellsford.
I think if we’re all honest, we have spent sometime on or in the ‘Funny Farm’!!
Traffic through Wellsford at 12.40 pm, guess holidays are over for some folk! Had a relaxing afternoon at the motel, waiting for Brent to call to say where he wanted to be picked up! He rang at 4.50pm and said that he would be coming into Waiwera beach in an hour. I said that I’d leave now as traffic was bad! It was 35 minutes drive normally! Got to Dome Valley lookout and traffic came to a complete stop. We crawled our way through Warkworth, 45 minutes, so needless to say I was going to be late! Got there finally, Brent was waiting for me to tell him where to come in!
Waiwera beach, looking across to Auckland.
Once we were all packed up and Brent changed we had dinner at Sugar Loaf Waiwera before we came back to motel
Thursday, 03 January, 2019
Waiwera to Gulf Harbour
Checked out of the Wellsford motel and headed to Cafe for breakie. Ordered eggs bene ………. which was a mistake! It was smothered in hollandaise out of a squeeze bottle. Coffee was good though.
Launched from Waiwera at about 8.40 and had the 10-12kt SW just behind my stbd beam which gave me an assist and good speed till I got to Huaroa Point at the end of the Whangaparaoa Peninsula. Hoping to make it at least to Takapuna today if I could escape the worst of the forecast SW’lies.
Rounding the peninsula the SW intensified to 20+kts. Called Shaz to say I was going to bail at Gulf harbour.
Had a look around Gulf Harbour Marina before exiting at the “poor mans” boat ramp.
Short day today but can’t complain with weather offering up 7 straight paddle days. Forecast tomorrow not promising – SW 30kts.
Shaz ……….. Up early, packed and drove to Waiwera beach. Staying at Takapuna tonight.
Brent looking like a clown face today with his zinc on his lips!
Brent launched about 8.30am heading for Takapuna beach, so long as the conditions (wind) ok!
Lovely drive around the coast to Orewa where I stopped for a while and looked around the shops on the beach front.
It’s been along time since I have been to Orewa, it changed a lot! It was always busy, but times that by 10! Parking in the town a nightmare! I got a takeaway coffee and muffin then found a picnic table down by beach.
Left Orewa and headed for Takapuna beach driving along SH25, then headed across to Browns Bay. Beaches very busy, so drove up to Waiake beach. Parked up and read my book for a while, until Brent contacted me an said it was hard work paddling today and he was going to come in at Gulf Harbour, on the Whangaparaoa Peninsula and he’d be there in 20 minutes. Bugger, I was 30 minutes away!never mind, back north I go! He was already up by the boat ramp when I arrived at 1pm.
Loaded up and headed for our motel in Takapuna.
Saturday, 05 January, 2019
Gulf Harbour to Pohutakawa Bay
Forced off the water yesterday as the predicted SW 30kt for the Gulf played out. Today’s forecast was for early SW turning N during the day.
Earlier 0715 start today from Gulf Harbour boat ramp. Calm conditions in the gulf as I set off for the west side of Rangitoto Island. An 0800 HW meant I would be having an ebbing tide against me for the day. Made some enquires about going through Gardiners Gap on the east side of Rangitoto but the required high tide time didn’t suit today.
Kept a keen eye out for shipping that I intended to keep well away from. Didn’t need to worry about them so much as the speedy pilot boat that came unnecessarily close to me as I approached A buoy. Twats!
Shaz txt to say she was going over the bridge for the last time as I was rock hopping against a swift tide around the west side of Rangitoto. A real moment to savour for both of us.
At the south end of Rangitoto I kept a keen eye on the channel that the Waiheke fast ferries were taking and gapped it for Brown’s Island when it was clear in both directions. Glad to be through these congested waters without any heart stopping moments.
Pulled into Brown’s Island for an early lunch (rice and tuna) and reassess the days destination. Had suggested to Shaz that I would meet her at Eastern Beach for lunch. The predicted northerly was now just kicking in so said to Shaz that I would save myself a detour and cut straight across to Pohutakawa Bay at Beachlands and that I would be there in about an hour and a half.
The northerly increased to 12kt to assist me meeting my scheduled ETA with Shaz. This marks the end of this excursion north with some good miles made courtesy of some favourable weather. Can’t complain at getting eight out of a possible nine days on the water. Couldn’t happen on the west coast! We were both upbeat now about being south of the Bridge and some shorter return travel distances for a while at least. Next trip ……. across the Firth of Thames and down the Coromandel coast. Can’t wait!
Shaz ………… Early start today from Gulf Harbour! Brent set off around 7.15am for Eastern Beach.
Just off the boat ramp at Gulf Harbour
Looking across to the Northshore
Just because you’re on holiday, doesn’t mean you can’t do exercise on your bike (set up like an Exercycle).
Arrived at Eastern beach around 12.20pm, after doing a bit of shopping at Botany Downs. Brent contacted me a little after to say he had stopped on Brown Island for a snack and was going to go onto Beachlands rather than Eastern beach to come in! I went onto my sisters place waiting for Brent to contact me with a time to meet him. Got a text arriving at Beachlands at 2.45pm, and sure enough that’s when he arrived.
This is his last day in the water, until he has a long weekend or leave! We stayed at my sisters for the night before heading home the next day! This is his last day in the water, until he has a long weekend or leave!
