26 – 29 October, 2019
This planned week away marks the start of this summers campaign. It’s always a fickle time of year weather wise so quite unsure where we will end up. Looking forward to our first trip away in our camper van that will make life much easier for Shaz and all sorts of flexibility for us in remote areas.
On this trip there are long stretches of coastline that have no vehicle access so have prepared to go solo, if necessary, as a contingency against the weather.
THIS TRIP: Sponge Bay, Gisborne to Wairoa – 4 paddle days Overall Distance 118.1km Time 19.3hrs Average Speed 6.1km/hr
26 October, 2019
Sponge Bay to Mahanga
Arrived at Sponge Bay from New Plymouth yesterday after visiting Jan & Vic in Whakatane. Went straight down to check the surf out to find that the access to the beach was barricaded due to erosion undermining of the wooden steps.
The SW’ly was still pumping but forecast to decline overnight. I checked out the far end of the Bay and found good enough access down a gully where I could drag Secala to the beach.
Not in a hurry to launch early the next morning as the full tide would be high on the steeper, rocky, top end of the beach, and; the SW’ly was forecast to linger through the morning.
Got to Sponge Bay on a gloomy morning amongst surfers coming and going. Loaded Secala for a possible overnighter somewhere even though it was only about a 6.5hr paddle to Mahanga. Have lined up Whareongaonga Bay as a possible exit point if necessary. Beyond the breakers there was no sign of the SW but forecasts differed on what to expect today.
Guaranteed a wet exit through the surf today.
Launched and patiently waited to make my dash through the outer break, paddle jacket firmly done up.
Headed directly across a calm Poverty Bay towards Young Nicks Head to maintain close contact with the shore. A very light NW set in as the morning cloud cleared. A beautiful 2 hour crossing of Poverty Bay before, inexplicably got a crook gut. Then, to add to my discomfort, a 12kt SW headwind set in for a couple of hours.
A passing pod of dolphins swung by and latched onto my bow for a few minutes, to lift the spirits. As I approached Happy Jacks Boat Harbour 4 hours later, I started to feel much better. Have been looking forward to exploring Happy Jacks. A flooding tide and low surf provided easy entry to this secluded cove and landed on the beach. Private property signs and fences clearly suggested visitors were unwelcome. After a stretch and a few photos I relaunched and rounded the point to land in low surf at Mahanga Beach. Had thoughts of continuing on to Whangawehi boat ramp (another 1.7hr paddle) if possible today, which would make tomorrows bigger Mahia Peninsula trip a little more manageable. Have learned though, that its not a good idea to push it on my first paddle back on the road, so decided to ease off the peddle today. Happily settled with a 7.5 hour paddle day under the belt.
25th October, 2019
Shaza ……………. Stayed overnight at Dunham Reserve on Lake Whakamaru in the camper. Nice and quiet place to spend the night.
No rush to leave this morning. Took our time heading for Gisborne via Thornton to visit Jan and Vic! Jan has made some yummy savoury scones for morning tea. Brent filled up his water bottles ready for tomorrows kayak trip. Had a lovely catch up with them, checked out the wedding photos from France and then back on the road! Brent had arranged POP (Park over Place) for $5 a night on Sponge Road near where he will be launching from.
On arrival in Gisborne we went to check out Brent’s launch spot before going to POP.
OMG, things have changed a bit since April when we were last here! Erosion was not good, you could no longer go down the steps to the beach as they were hanging in mid air, the steps had been blocked off at both ends. The sea was really rough today, big waves and swells!
It was cold and windy outside, but Brent braved the conditions and walked down to the other end of the beach to see if he would be able to launch from there.
From here we went down to Wainui beach to see if it would be better to launch from there tomorrow. This would mean going back a little and repeat what he had already done, but oh well what can you do!
Drove back to Sponge Road and parked up at Roy & Betsy’s POP for the night and see what tomorrow brings!
Saturday 26 October
Up early and head to Sponge Bay to check out the weather conditions, and guess what – good to go!
Brent decided to launch from here, down the other end of beach! He loaded up the kayak for a possible overnight trip and headed for Mahanga Beach. The conditions were much better than yesterday, so with the right timing Brent made it out no problem!
Once I had tidied up in the van, I headed to the Warehouse to buy a holder for my phone so I could use google maps! Had a coffee at ‘The Wharf’ cafe sitting outside over looking the harbour in the sunshine!
Now with the camper van I had to find a dump station to empty out and replenish our drinking water supply, a quick stop at the supermarket before heading to Mahanga Beach. Driving down state highway 2, I turned off at Nuhaka towards Opoutama and then onto Mahanga Beach. No phone reception here at all, after a while I drove back to Opoutama to update my iReach to see where Brent was! Got a coffee from the Allied garage and headed back to Mahanga Beach which is a 10 minute drive. Sitting there drinking my coffee and talking to some people that were here for the weekend from Gisborne I noticed a kayak in the distance. Got the binoculars out and saw who I thought was Brent, red kayak with a orange and yellow flag on it! I was confused now because when I updated the inReach he was still up the coast a little, but then thought oh it only updates every half hour! I tried to reach him on the VHF, but he never responded which was odd as he was in line of sight! Ok so I thought he must have decided to go on to Mahia. So I drove back to Opoutama to get reception and ring him on mobile to see what he was up to! Upon checking the inReach again I realised that it can’t have been his kayak I saw, so I turned around and went back to Mahanga. Oops, when I got back Brent was already on the beach and not to happy with me as I wasn’t there to guide him in! Oh well he was alright! It was then that I noticed (remembered) his kayak doesn’t have an orange flag anymore as he took it off to put the French flag Alex gave him! We packed up and headed to Opoutama camp (free) to park up for the night. It is a nice camp with flushing toilets and was pretty busy as its a long weekend.
There was a buzz around the camp as people were getting ready for the All Blacks vs England game tonight. Thanks to Ben we were able to watch the game on TV in the camper van through ‘Spark’. Large group of people opposite up set up their tents and cook area and had a generator going for their TV ready for the game! This could be a long night! But it wasn’t, All Blacks lost!
27 October, 2019
Mahanga to Ahuriri Bay
The turn of the tide through the channel between Ahuriri Point and Portland Island (at the bottom of Mahia Peninsula) is at 1100hrs today. This timing is ideal as it would take me about 6 hours to reach the channel from Mahanga and the flooding tide would not only assist me through the gap, but also compliment the wind direction. The forecast is for a slowly building NE’ly breeze today that would provide an assist and easier paddling down the east side of the Peninsula.
Secala is fully loaded again for a probable overnighter somewhere on the Peninsula if necessary. Not sure if I’m ready for the 10.5 hour paddle it would take to get all the way to Opoutama where Shaz is staying the night. Also, the forecast strengthening NE’ly could be handful up the west side of the Peninsula. There looks like a landing spot just around Ahuriri Point where I hope to stop and reassess the day.
On the water by about 0800 and a flat sea for the crossing to Table Cape where I would make an almost 90 degree turn to run SW all the way down the east side of the Mahia Peninsula. Approaching Table Cape it was difficult to tell if there was a gap between the land and exposed reefs extending a fair way out. All became clear as I got closer and able to make out people on 4 wheelers driving all the way along the reef.
There are plenty of good beach landing options down this side of the Peninsula. A light NE’ly assist made paddling easy.
As I approached the channel between Ahuriri Point and Portland Island my anticipation rose, as it always does, at any unfamiliar prominent headland. Signs of the Rocket Lab appeared above the Point. The wind was steadily increasing as it funnelled through the channel. It was 1400hrs and 3 hours into a flooding tide now and there appeared to be enough water to take the inside route between a prominent reef and the shore, just before Ahuriri Point. Outside the reef had deeper water but also stronger winds. There were several rocks still awash that needed to be dodged as I aimed for the tip of the reef extending off Ahuriri Point. Very watchful to safely round the rocks off the Point, I swung by very close to its end; through to the lee side, and relative calm of Ahuriri Bay.
There was a 4WD track down to the beach and a natural channel though the reef where boats can be launched. A tractor and trailer above the beach indicated that a boat was currently out there.
Came ashore through a gap in the reef just 100m along from the boat access. Made a coffee and climbed the steep 4WD track to get some photos. At the top of the track was the highly secure Rocket Lab facility. High fences and security cameras all round. Made every effort not to draw attention to myself and took no photos in that direction ….. just in case. What a beautiful location this area is. Felt like hanging out here for the day. Not sure when I would ever be back. Got good cell reception up the hill so rang Shaz to tell her my plans, even though it was only about 1500hrs. Set up camp in an ideal location to enjoy a sunset.
As I saw the boat returning, I went to help out with the boat recovery as it returned through the boat channel to the tractor. Heard that fishing is usually really good around here but only managed a groper and a few blue cod today.
Got reacquainted with all the gear setting up camp. Had plenty of the day left to enjoy the area, another good bialetti coffee and a great sunset. A top day all round.
Shaza ……………. Great night stay at Opoutama campsite, free. Early start today as Brent wanted to be on the water to make the most of the good weather. By the time he was fully packed and loaded for overnight trip staying somewhere on the Mahia Peninsula it was just after 8am.
I went back to the camp and had my breakfast before setting off to Mahia for a look and see if i could contact Brent. In Mahia they were having a Market Day down by the beach, so parked up and had a look around the market.
I grabbed a coffee before heading towards the Mahia East Boat ramp on the other side of the peninsula. I tried making contact with Brent on VHF on the way around, but wasn’t able to contact him. Beautiful drive around, people collecting shell fish all along the beach. I got to the boat ramp, still unable to contact Brent. Unsure about the road further on I decided to go back to Opoutama camp and set up for the day and night solo!
28 October, 2019
Ahuriri Bay to Nuhaka River (via Opoutama)
After a good nights sleep, woke at my usual 0430. Decided I may as well get going and enjoy the sunrise on the water. It’s only about 4 hours to Opoutama where Shaz stayed another night. I should be there by smoko.
Launched when I had enough light to weave my way out through the rocks into Ahuriri Bay. Turned to face Portland Island and a beautiful sunrise developing through the gap between Portland Island and Ahuriri Point. Always a great start to the day.
The calm morning and low swell made the short cut between Black Reef and Hekerangi Point easy to negotiate. A couple of young seals were play fighting on top of the large rock at the end of the Point as I passed a few meters away.
Contrasting with the east side; the western shoreline of the Peninsula, all the way to Long Point is a continuous line of limestone cliffs. Remarkably though, a beautiful secluded beach (Ahimanawa), recessed into the cliffs, appeared just before Long Point. Good to know if I’m ever back this way looking for shelter or a camping option.
Swung around between Long Point and its associated outcrops watchful of the swirling surge around the rocks. Just around the Point, the beach access at Kinikini Point was clear with farm dwellings scattered on the hills above. Another landing option on this side of the Peninsula. Beyond Kinikini the limestone cliffs continued, in the main, all the way to Mahia Beach.
Could make a direct course for Opoutama now, about 2 hours away. The morning remained calm as I cut across the bay and landed at the shallow Opoutama beach at mid tide. A guy sidled up and asked if I was the bloke paddling around Table Cape yesterday. He was one of the many shellfish gatherers I had seen. He was very interested on our trip and helped carry Secala up the beach, surprised at how heavy the laden kayak was. He said there were mussels on the rocks just off Opoutama beach and that he would get some for us.
I wanted to make more progress today but had no idea where the next vehicle access points would be along this section of coast. Decided to spend a couple of hours on the road doing a coastal reccie towards Wairoa. The alternative was to “wing it” and stay loaded up for another impromptu overnighter somewhere.
Our drive uncovered only one exit point at the Nuhaka River bridge along the road to Wairoa. It is a 7 hour paddle to Wairoa which was a stretch now that it was well after lunch when we got back to Opoutama. Nuhaka river is only 1.5 hours along the coast and offered some enticing variation of negotiating a small river bar and river paddle. If the river bar looked too treacherous, I would have plenty of time to return to Opoutama, as a last resort.
An unloaded Secala glided easier through the water as I hugged the shore towards Nuhaka River. Shaz pulled up in the camper as the road reached the shoreline where I happened to be paddling. That hasn’t happened for a while!
The river bar looked manageable. Helmet on now, I aimed for the channel between the breakers over the bar and shoreline, hoping to time my run through the entrance. Staying very close to the shore and while just rounding the entrance, I got blindsided on the hip as a surge picked up the stern and flipped me over. In shallow water, I could easily stand and drag Secala up the beach and re-launch into the river.
A nice 2km paddle up the river past several whitebaiters to where Shaz was waiting at the bridge.
At low tide now, the exit was a little muddy but an easy exit up the river bank to the camper. A 10 minute drive back down the road for another night at Opoutama camp. We were greeted with a bowl of beautifully cooked mussels from our motorhome neighbours. Amazing!
Shaza …………… Could have slept in this morning but wouldn’t you know it, because I could, I didn’t!
Coffee for one this morning and as much as I hate to admit it Brent you were right to bring the small Bialettii coffee pot!
Got an email from inReach saying Brent was out of surf zone at 5.51am, at least he can get an early start when he’s not waiting for me!
I have put some pin wheel scones in the oven for Brent’s morning tea when he arrives!
He landed on the beach around 10am, scones almost ready! Took them out of oven and went down to help him up with all his gear. A guy came down and helped him up the beach with his kayak as the tide was way out! I made him a cup of tea and we sat outside in the sun enjoying our morning tea.
Brent wanted to go for a drive to check out where he could come in next and that I could get to easily enough. If possible to get back on the water today!
We drove around the coast road toward Nuhaka, but nowhere around there with beach access. Kept on driving towards Wairoa, went down by river mouth to check the possible entry into the river mouth! Heading back Brent wanted to check the river mouth area a Nuhaka, but couldn’t see that far. Time was ticking by and he wanted to make the best of the fine weather, as tomorrow didn’t sound to promising.
Brent decided to leave and head for Nuhaka and come up the river to the bridge where I would pick him up.
Kept an eye on inReach to see where he was which gave me an idea of when he should be near the river mouth. I got to Nuhaka River mouth around 4pm, Brent rang to say that he was crossing the bar into the river and wouldn’t be long. He finally came around the bend on the river near the bridge at 4.27pm landing on the river edge at 4.30pm.
It was very muddy there but he managed his way through and pulled his kayak up the river bank. So good having the outside shower connection on the camper makes washing the kayak down much easier. Drove back to Opoutama camp to stay the night, a lot quieter here tonight as everyone has gone home except for one other motorhome! Very nice people, the guy that helped Brent up with his kayak this morning and was very intrigued by what he was doing. He got some fresh mussels from the beach today and brought some over for us, that he had cooked up in some nice German white wine sauce! It looked very nice, all yours Brent as I don’t eat them. Such a nice thing to do!
29 October, 2019
Nuhaka River to Wairoa
An early start for Shaz today as I wanted to make good progress around the Bay. Got to Nuhaka Bridge at 0700 and during set up a guy (Blane) waltzed up the river bank with his whitebait net and offered us his mornings catch. Amazing generosity. We got a cup of whitebait for dinner. Blane had spent time by the river before heading off to work. He pointed to the terrain way inland that was shaped like the profile of a face, which was where he worked. A great start to the day.
I launched into the river at high tide avoiding a muddy entry into Secala and hoped that the increased water over the bar would make this crossing a little easier too.
Greeted the whitebaiters on the river bank again before successfully exiting through the river mouth and bar, hugging the west bank this time.
A westerly headwind was due today. My first destination is Wairoa, normally about a 5 hour paddle along 30km of monotonous brown gritty sand beach. Shaz would suss out the best exit point at Wairoa and guide me in when I get there. And also check out the vehicle access down to Waihua Beach where I hoped to push on to later today.
Being able to paddle within 100m of the beach is an enjoyable contrast to west coast beaches where a much larger margin is necessary to stay clear of the outer sand bars. I was to find out however, that there were dangers for the unwary. On a couple of occasions along this shore there were clearly reefs right in my path, about 100m off the dumping shore. These only presented themselves occasionally as the bigger waves, of a bigger sets, rolled through. These waves rose from a flat surface and within seconds curled up into a tumbling mass towards the shore. When they appeared ahead I marked a point on the very distant shore to ensure I skirted behind them in case I got caught unawares. Well, of course, on one occasion I let my guard slip and made no offshore compensation! Realising on my port side that I was directly in the pathway of a rapidly rising wall of water and having no time to react, I was lucky that this was the smaller of the two waves heading my way, as it rolled under me. The second wave was huge but I had more time to react breaking into a sprint and turning hard left to meet it. Sliced up the face at an angle and caught the top as it broke. Thankfully over the crest, and slamming back down to a horizontal and upright position. I was so unprepared I had my skirt unhitched and besides getting drenched, I got a couple of inches of water in the cockpit. Amateur!! Lost my drink bottle from under the bungees and my VHF got swept overboard. Luckily I always tether it off and it was in its waterproof cover. Mini crisis averted; and attention re-centered.
The forecast westerly breeze had set in, that slowed me down and extended my ETA at Wairoa by more than an hour and half. Got a few waves from surfcasters along the beach as I’m sure we were, at least for a while, a mutual distraction. Approaching the Wairoa River bar, Shaz got a visual on me and directed me to Whakamahi Beach on the west side of the river. Even though I gave the river bar a wide berth it was still a lumpy ride until clear of the influence of the river. Headed now into where Shaz was standing and landed easy enough in the low dumpers. Shaz had parked the camper in a nice spot just behind the beach dunes.
Further progress today was called off as Shaz found that she could not get access down Waihua Beach road in our camper and the westerly was now enough to make the trip to the next access point at Mohaka River a bit too much of a challenge today. Decided to enjoy our little freedom camping spot for the rest of the day, finished off with a big beautiful whitebait fritter. Thanks Blane!
Shaza ……………. Up early this morning, to get and early start. Stopped at the lookout point on the top of hill that looks down to the Opoutama and Mahia bays where Brent took a couple of photos.
Arrived at Nuhaka river by bridge and started to unpack all the gear when I noticed a white-baiter walking back up from the river. I asked him if he had had any luck, he replied “yeah enough for a feed”. He then asked ‘do you want them’, I said no thanks! He said ‘nah you can have them, I don’t mind, it’s enough for a feed.’ I said thank you that would be lovely! Such a kind thing to do, he goes to catch whitebaid before work in the mornings. Said that you’ll have to clean out all the weed and rubbish from them, didn’t mind doing that.
So once again Blane, thank you so much, they were delicious; its been such a long time since we have had any.
Brent finished packing his kayak, and was on the river by 7.33am.
I set off for Wairoa, got diesel, went to dump station and got fresh drinking water. Then drove onto Waihua Beach to check it out as Brent wanted to come in there later. Got there and turned onto the road, saw a lady standing by the fence of her property. I stopped and asked about access to the beach, she said yes that is the way! I asked if it would be alright to go down in the camper van and she said not really only good for smaller vehicles for now! So turned around and headed back to Wairoa, drove down to the river mouth and made a coffee. I decided to go on further down the road along the coast where there was a freedom camping spot. I thought it looked like a good spot for Brent to come in rather than try the river mouth.
Contacted him on the VHF, explained about Waihua Beach and made the suggestion, about coming in here a Wairoa. He was happy with that idea but I just needed to guide him into the beach. While waiting I did a little washing and made a make-shift clothes line, then cleaned the whitebait in the river water that we collected from the Nuhaka river. Now I can relax and read until he arrives!
Around 2pm I went for a walk down the beach and then made contact with Brent as I could see him coming in! I guided him into the beach, successfully as there was a bit of an under toe at 2.16pm.
I made a coffee and snacks (cheese, crackers, pickles, cut up orange and yummy strawberries) and sat at the tables provided along the beach. Took a selfie of us both on this beautiful sunny (a little windy) beach.
Brent pulled the kayak and gear up the beach to the camper van to dry stuff out!
Spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing until it was time to cook those beautiful white-bait! I made one big fritter each, oh so good!
Weather forced Brent off the water so decided to spend the last few days of this trip doing a reccie down the Hawkes Bay and Wairarapa coast.