1. Fiordland – Orepuki to Green Islets

Arrived at Rowallan on the afternoon of Saturday, 6 February, 2021 hoping to launch and kick start the adventure with a short paddle to Port Craig, before a nice two day weather window opens up on Sunday and Monday. That I planned would get me to Puysegur Landing, at least. However, the rough road for our camper van and the high surf conditions played parts in our decision to withdraw back to Orepuki for a launch there tomorrow. This withdrawal and lost time made Puysegur Landing an unlikely destination this weather window.

Colac Bay

The beachside camp site at Orepuki was full (Waitangi Weekend) so we ended up further down the road at Colac Bay for the night.

Sunday 07 February – Orepuki (Monkey Is) to Wairaurahiri River

Distance 40.0km. Time 6h 40m. Speed 6.0km/hr

It’s a grey morning when we arrived at Orepuki Beach (Monkey Island). A freedom camping Irish couple were just leaving their beachside parking spot so we got good beach access to unload Secala and gear. My distant landfall (Sand Hill Point) is indistinguishable on the horizon, 30km away. This will be the longest open water paddle that I have ever taken on; to date. And in the middle of the Bay I will be the furthest (12km) I’ve ever been from any shore, in a sea kayak. All the forecasts are ideal though. A light following SE breeze is predicted in the afternoon. And I will enjoy whatever residual west flowing ebb tide through the Foveaux Strait; for a good portion of the day.

With Shaza’s help Secala is loaded to the gunwales with sufficient food and equipment for 18 days. It’s the heaviest she’s ever been. My previous longest solo trip was 7 days; from Te Araroa down the North Island East Coast; back in April, 2019.

All the usual pre-launch routines and processes kick in …….. PLB in left lifejacket pocket ………. InReach in right lifejacket pocket. VHF; Compass; Maps; Food; Tent; Primus; Fuel; Clothes; Water – check . Insect repellent – CHECK! Then, all too quickly we’re ready. Time to take a breath and realise that this is the moment that we have planned and prepared for well over a year. The launch that will take me towards the most remote and exposed coastline in NZ. It is estimated to take me 7 – 8 paddle days to reach my next rendezvous and resupply with Shaz at Deep Cove, Doubtful Sound. Who knows what part the weather will play?

Packing Secala at Monkey Island (east end of Te Wae Wae Bay)
Te Wae Wae Bay
Sizing up the surf!! And whether I’ll float!!

At the last minute Shaz hands me double ziplocked bags of Christmas cake that I squeeze into the deck bag. A little extra water is required to detach Secala’s bum off the beach now.

Bon Voyage!
Looking across Te Wae Wae Bay towards Sand Hill Point 30km away. Secala on compass course.

After the launch there is the usual paddle wave farewell to Shaz before I turn to look for my landfall heading. It’s usually point to point. Clear and obvious. Or the compass course to find a land feature to aim for. Easy. But this time there is no land, or feature, on my bow. In the direction I need to go. Despite excellent visibility. My landfall is low lying Sand Hill Point, 30km away. Beyond the earths curvature. For now I would rely solely on the compass.

I ease into my paddle rhythm and focus my thoughts on the here and now. I feel the increased drag on Secala’s hull. A little like pushing into the next resistance level at the gym. About 30 minutes into the paddle I realise that I hadn’t checked the fridge. I have left behind the cheese and salami…….

A few of the hundreds of Sooty Shearwaters working the waters that day.

Gradually the cloud lifted and the calm Bay gave way to a very gentle following SE breeze. Occasionally a large SW swell set would roll by, reminding me that we are actually in the Southern Ocean. They were reminiscent of the big rollers I experienced off Ninety Mile Beach. I managed to run right over the top of an unsuspecting shark seemingly resting on the surface. About 2.5m long. Not a midget. It bolted into the blue depths. My advantage of surprise. Need to keep it that way.

As I passed Mid Bay Reef, a recreational fishing boat, with 6 guys on board, came over for a chat. No doubt trying to figure out what a kayak is doing so far off shore! Nice chat but no offer of fish!

Sand Hill Point

Approaching Sand Hill Point I knew I had to make a decision on whether to continue beyond the protected west side of Te Wae Wae Bay. There is a lovely protected beach just east of Sand Hill Point that looked very inviting. Otherwise my destination today would be somewhere along the exposed south coast, probably in the vicinity of Wairaurahiri River, that will certainly be a surf entry. And, more importantly, a surf exit tomorrow. The predicted swell height is only 1.5m from the SW. Which is very tame for this area. I decided to have a look on the west side of Sand Hill Point to assess the surf conditions.

At Sand Hill Point hundreds of Sooty Shearwaters were attending large fish work-ups. As I rounded the Point a local westerly 10kt headwind kicked in for a while but the swell looked low and manageable. It is all lowlands here with native bush right down to the beach. An amazing sandy beach stretches west from Sand Hill Point and there was not too much surf observed here. This sealed my decision to push on and find a suitable landing spot. In fact, beaches pretty much extended all the way to my landing spot. A helicopter flew overhead heading in the direction of Preservation Inlet. I hoisted my paddle to him.

Landed in this protected bay just east of Wairaurahiri River. Looking east towards Sand Hill Point (out of sight).

At a spot that I thought was very close to Wairaurahiri River I came in close to shore to investigate and discovered a very protected Bay just east of the River. After landing on sand at low tide, I decided to stay, even though there wasn’t much room to camp above the high tide line. It would make a rocky bed tonight.

My introduction to Fiordland sandflies has now begun. I figured these sandflies hadn’t tasted human, in these parts, for some time. They had a few mates. They figured there was plenty of me to go round. The sandfly battle had begun. Decided I needed to mount some sort of defence. Some resistance or fortification. I can’t start our relationship with a whimper. I made a fire and stood in the smoke to get changed into dry clobber. I try to keep the smoke over my torso; not my head. I cough and splutter a little; but it’s worth it. The sandflies are largely kept at bay. I figure I win a points victory this round! There will be many more rounds to come. They are not going anywhere. And nor am I.

My next concern was fresh water. I needed to replenish my supply here. Or I would have to pull in somewhere along the way tomorrow. I wouldn’t get a full days paddle in with the water I had left. There was no obvious stream or creek nearby but I found a trickle of brackish water coming off an adjacent cliff. It tasted fine. Happy now that tomorrows paddle was sorted.

Set up camp above the HW mark! Sandfly fire in foreground.
A bed of rocks!

Have slept on a rocky base before; so knew my Sea to Summit sleeping mat would do the job.

While setting up camp, the helicopter was returning down the coast but this time very very low. Maybe 30m above the water and 200m off the beach. I expect he was on the lookout for me.

Sand Hill Point can just be seen in the distance.
Wairaurahiri River is a mile or so beyond this point

The first day of this South Island adventure. And all is well. Conditions are great; but that will not remain. Not in these parts. Every day paddled though, every mile achieved, is a mile that will probably never be seen again. Enjoy!


Monday 08 February – Wairaurahiri to Green Islets

Distance 36.0km Time 6.2hrs Speed 5.8km/hr

Had a pretty reasonable nights sleep on the rocks. Can’t complain. The main disturbance was the high tide dumping surf on the rocks/boulders only a few meters away! Rose pre-dawn at 0500 to have my muesli breakie and pack up inside the tent by headlamp. Good to see the surf hadn’t changed overnight, despite the racket last night suggesting otherwise. Packed down Secala at first light and slipped easily through a small surf.

It’s another gloomy grey start to the day. But the sea is settled and the paddling easy. Settling into the day I get a real sense now of the remoteness and vast proportions of this place. It could easily be overwhelming. I snap out of it. Focus on the here and now. And what I can see. And control. There is more of a demand for contingencies, in these parts. An escape plan. As many as possible. In case conditions take a turn.

Today’s target destinations are either Green Islets (6hrs paddle) or Gates Harbour (8 hrs paddle). Both are selected for the all round protection they offer. From the adverse conditions expected from tomorrow. The obvious escape options today are Knife and Steel Harbour and Big River. During the paddle casual and continuous observations are made of other possible landings. If needed.

Coastline between Wairaurahiri River and Green Islets

Where I end up today is where I will be hunkering down for a few days. Northerly gales are forecast for Puysegur.

I exit my calm Bay and round the corner to see a good sized bar and surf at the entrance to Wairaurahiri River. I’m even more pleased with decision to stay on my rocky beach last night. Long Point is the next prominent landmark. It looks a looong way off, yet by my reckoning less than 2hrs paddle away. My distance estimation, by observation, is a long way out.

Long Point demands respect. It has a lighthouse. For a reason. Rocks and shoals protect its shoreline forcing punters out wide. Green Islets is clear on the distant horizon as the next waypoint. Instead I cut in towards the shore to try and get a closer look at Knife and Steel Harbour. I find it; but observe many shoaling areas of turbulence and upwelling. The bigger swell sets break heavily over some. I get caught too close over one shoaling area and have to quickly turn to face an on-coming, and rapidly growing wall of water. The heart rate ramps in sync with the bow. Several paddle strokes up the face. Near vertical but safely over. A timely reminder. I retreat to deeper waters with my tail slapped.

The topography is becoming more significant. The land is growing now. Vertically.

Something breaches the water behind me and slaps back through the surface to jolt me back to the present. It sounds like a full breach as there is a time lag between the exit splash and the slap of re-entry. Maybe something after some little penguins that I saw moments earlier. I look for the telltale signs of dolphins, orca or whales. I don’t see or hear any. I’m left with my imagination. I’m more alert now and watchful of my surroundings. And I lift the paddle stroke rate just a tad. Create distance between me and whatever it was. I know it’s futile to out run anything out here. But it’s all I can do …… and doing it helps.

I enjoy the last of Shaza’s Christmas cake that has survived in its double ziplock bags. From now on my nourishment on the water will consist of Em’s Power cookies, nuts, dried fruit or a peanut slab. If I’m deserving! Would have enjoyed some cheese and salami …………..

A light rain now accompanies a light offshore NE breeze. Big River is the next conspicuous landmark adjacent to Prices Harbour. There are large rocky outcrops standing sentry at it’s entrance. The NE funnels down the Big River valley to give me a nice little assist on my starboard quarter; on the final approach to Green Islets.

Green Islets arrives and it’s stunningly beautiful. I weave through the cray pots, reefs and shoals on a smooth readable surface.

I land on a SE facing beach with ripples lapping the shoreline. The beach has vertical cliffs shrouding it from the SSW clockwise all the way round to the NE. Cosy, safe, stunning.

Looking back east. The point at Big River can be seem through the arch.

A transition takes place at the end of the paddle day. Ocean to land. Where to camp? Flat, relatively high ground is important. Above the tidal zone – crucial. Wind protection – desirable. Soft base for tent – optional, but nice. For an old fella. And where is the water supply?

But first, immediately before landing, the sand fly defences go up. I keep my head net and repellent in the cockpit. For quick access. First the hat and buff come off. Head net goes on with buff pulled over the top. Snug around the neck. Repellent is pumped onto hands and wiped all over the head net. Hat goes on. More repellent onto hands and wiped all over the remaining exposed skin – the wrists and hands. Good to head ashore now. And hope it’s not a wet landing.

Camped amongst the pungas about 5m from the top of the beach. Prepared now for a few rough days.

The camp site pretty much ticked all the boxes, although there was light rain while setting up the tarp and tent. Tarp first. Erect tent under the tarp and move into position. Bring all dry bags under the tarp. Get changed by the fire. Make a coffee.

The most consistent water supply is found just beyond the arch about 300m away. It’s just a trickle, but the rain is coming.

Once the fire is made, the camp is complete!

Can’t complain! Got my 2 paddle days in before the expected northerly blast takes over. Glad with decisions to bring an additional Goalzero battery bank for charging the devices and with my MSR pocket rocket for a quick coffee.

Secala well above the high tide zone.

Finishing each paddle day earlier in the day, after a 6 to 8hr paddle is part of the general plan. Ideally! To set up camp. Find water. And have a wander. To enjoy the journey. So far, so good.

14. Poverty to Hawke Bay

26 – 29 October, 2019

This planned week away marks the start of this summers campaign. It’s always a fickle time of year weather wise so quite unsure where we will end up. Looking forward to our first trip away in our camper van that will make life much easier for Shaz and all sorts of flexibility for us in remote areas.

On this trip there are long stretches of coastline that have no vehicle access so have prepared to go solo, if necessary, as a contingency against the weather.

THIS TRIP: Sponge Bay, Gisborne to Wairoa – 4 paddle days Overall Distance 118.1km Time 19.3hrs Average Speed 6.1km/hr


26 October, 2019

Sponge Bay to Mahanga

Distance 43.9km Time 7.4hrs Speed 5.9km/hr

Arrived at Sponge Bay from New Plymouth yesterday after visiting Jan & Vic in Whakatane. Went straight down to check the surf out to find that the access to the beach was barricaded due to erosion undermining of the wooden steps.

Sponge Bay looking towards Tuaheni Point. Access to beach blocked off.
Checking out a gully at the other end of the beach.

The SW’ly was still pumping but forecast to decline overnight. I checked out the far end of the Bay and found good enough access down a gully where I could drag Secala to the beach.

Not in a hurry to launch early the next morning as the full tide would be high on the steeper, rocky, top end of the beach, and; the SW’ly was forecast to linger through the morning.

Got to Sponge Bay on a gloomy morning amongst surfers coming and going. Loaded Secala for a possible overnighter somewhere even though it was only about a 6.5hr paddle to Mahanga. Have lined up Whareongaonga Bay as a possible exit point if necessary. Beyond the breakers there was no sign of the SW but forecasts differed on what to expect today.

Dragged Secala down the bank and over the logs.

Guaranteed a wet exit through the surf today.

This will be a wet exit!

Launched and patiently waited to make my dash through the outer break, paddle jacket firmly done up.

Headed directly across a calm Poverty Bay towards Young Nicks Head to maintain close contact with the shore. A very light NW set in as the morning cloud cleared. A beautiful 2 hour crossing of Poverty Bay before, inexplicably got a crook gut. Then, to add to my discomfort, a 12kt SW headwind set in for a couple of hours.

Young Nicks Head conspicuous.

A passing pod of dolphins swung by and latched onto my bow for a few minutes, to lift the spirits. As I approached Happy Jacks Boat Harbour 4 hours later, I started to feel much better. Have been looking forward to exploring Happy Jacks. A flooding tide and low surf provided easy entry to this secluded cove and landed on the beach. Private property signs and fences clearly suggested visitors were unwelcome. After a stretch and a few photos I relaunched and rounded the point to land in low surf at Mahanga Beach. Had thoughts of continuing on to Whangawehi boat ramp (another 1.7hr paddle) if possible today, which would make tomorrows bigger Mahia Peninsula trip a little more manageable. Have learned though, that its not a good idea to push it on my first paddle back on the road, so decided to ease off the peddle today. Happily settled with a 7.5 hour paddle day under the belt.

Arriving at Mahanga

25th October, 2019

Shaza ……………. Stayed overnight at Dunham Reserve on Lake Whakamaru in the camper. Nice and quiet place to spend the night.

No rush to leave this morning. Took our time heading for Gisborne via Thornton to visit Jan and Vic! Jan has made some yummy savoury scones for morning tea. Brent filled up his water bottles ready for tomorrows kayak trip. Had a lovely catch up with them, checked out the wedding photos from France and then back on the road! Brent had arranged POP (Park over Place) for $5 a night on Sponge Road near where he will be launching from.

On arrival in Gisborne we went to check out Brent’s launch spot before going to POP.

OMG, things have changed a bit since April when we were last here! Erosion was not good, you could no longer go down the steps to the beach as they were hanging in mid air, the steps had been blocked off at both ends. The sea was really rough today, big waves and swells! 

It was cold and windy outside, but Brent braved the conditions and walked down to the other end of the beach to see if he would be able to launch from there.

From here we went down to Wainui beach to see if it would be better to launch from there tomorrow. This would mean going back a little and repeat what he had already done, but oh well what can you do!

Drove back to Sponge Road and parked up at Roy & Betsy’s POP for the night and see what tomorrow brings!


Saturday 26 October 

Up early and head to Sponge Bay to check out the weather conditions, and guess what – good to go! 

Brent decided to launch from here, down the other end of beach! He loaded up the kayak for a possible overnight trip and headed for Mahanga Beach. The conditions were much better than yesterday, so with the right timing Brent made it out no problem!

Once I had tidied up in the van, I headed to the Warehouse to buy a holder for my phone so I could use google maps! Had a coffee at ‘The Wharf’ cafe sitting outside over looking the harbour in the sunshine! 

Marina at Gisborne Harbour

Now with the camper van I had to find a dump station to empty out and replenish our drinking water supply, a quick stop at the supermarket before heading to Mahanga Beach. Driving down state highway 2, I turned off at Nuhaka towards Opoutama and then onto Mahanga Beach. No phone reception here at all, after a while I drove back to Opoutama to update my iReach to see where Brent was! Got a coffee from the Allied garage and headed back to Mahanga Beach which is a 10 minute drive. Sitting there drinking my coffee and talking to some people that were here for the weekend from Gisborne I noticed a kayak in the distance. Got the binoculars out and saw who I thought was Brent, red kayak with a orange and yellow flag on it! I was confused now because when I updated the inReach he was still up the coast a little, but then thought oh it only updates every half hour! I tried to reach him on the VHF, but he never responded which was odd as he was in line of sight! Ok so I thought he must have decided to go on to Mahia. So I drove back to Opoutama to get reception and ring him on mobile to see what he was up to! Upon checking the inReach again I realised that it can’t have been his kayak I saw, so I turned around and went back to Mahanga. Oops, when I got back Brent was already on the beach and not to happy with me as I wasn’t there to guide him in! Oh well he was alright! It was then that I noticed (remembered) his kayak doesn’t have an orange flag anymore as he took it off to put the French flag Alex gave him! We packed up and headed to Opoutama camp (free) to park up for the night. It is a nice camp with flushing toilets and was pretty busy as its a long weekend. 

Opoutama camp

There was a buzz around the camp as people were getting ready for the All Blacks vs England game tonight. Thanks to Ben we were able to watch the game on TV in the camper van through ‘Spark’. Large group of people opposite up set up their tents and cook area and had a generator going for their TV ready for the game! This could be a long night! But it wasn’t, All Blacks lost!


27 October, 2019

Mahanga to Ahuriri Bay

Distance 41.8km Time 6.5hrs Speed 6.4km/hr

The turn of the tide through the channel between Ahuriri Point and Portland Island (at the bottom of Mahia Peninsula) is at 1100hrs today. This timing is ideal as it would take me about 6 hours to reach the channel from Mahanga and the flooding tide would not only assist me through the gap, but also compliment the wind direction. The forecast is for a slowly building NE’ly breeze today that would provide an assist and easier paddling down the east side of the Peninsula.

Secala is fully loaded again for a probable overnighter somewhere on the Peninsula if necessary. Not sure if I’m ready for the 10.5 hour paddle it would take to get all the way to Opoutama where Shaz is staying the night. Also, the forecast strengthening NE’ly could be handful up the west side of the Peninsula. There looks like a landing spot just around Ahuriri Point where I hope to stop and reassess the day.

Preparing to leave Mahanga ……… low surf!

On the water by about 0800 and a flat sea for the crossing to Table Cape where I would make an almost 90 degree turn to run SW all the way down the east side of the Mahia Peninsula. Approaching Table Cape it was difficult to tell if there was a gap between the land and exposed reefs extending a fair way out. All became clear as I got closer and able to make out people on 4 wheelers driving all the way along the reef.

Rounding Table Cape, Mahia Peninsula. Lots of people diving around the rocks.
Heading down Mahia Peninsula, Portland Island in the distance.

There are plenty of good beach landing options down this side of the Peninsula. A light NE’ly assist made paddling easy.

Approaching the channel between Ahuriri Point and Portland Island

As I approached the channel between Ahuriri Point and Portland Island my anticipation rose, as it always does, at any unfamiliar prominent headland. Signs of the Rocket Lab appeared above the Point. The wind was steadily increasing as it funnelled through the channel. It was 1400hrs and 3 hours into a flooding tide now and there appeared to be enough water to take the inside route between a prominent reef and the shore, just before Ahuriri Point. Outside the reef had deeper water but also stronger winds. There were several rocks still awash that needed to be dodged as I aimed for the tip of the reef extending off Ahuriri Point. Very watchful to safely round the rocks off the Point, I swung by very close to its end; through to the lee side, and relative calm of Ahuriri Bay.

The channel between Ahuriri Point and Portland Island (Rocket Lab just behind me)
Ahuriri Point

There was a 4WD track down to the beach and a natural channel though the reef where boats can be launched. A tractor and trailer above the beach indicated that a boat was currently out there.

Came ashore through a gap in the reef just 100m along from the boat access. Made a coffee and climbed the steep 4WD track to get some photos. At the top of the track was the highly secure Rocket Lab facility. High fences and security cameras all round. Made every effort not to draw attention to myself and took no photos in that direction ….. just in case. What a beautiful location this area is. Felt like hanging out here for the day. Not sure when I would ever be back. Got good cell reception up the hill so rang Shaz to tell her my plans, even though it was only about 1500hrs. Set up camp in an ideal location to enjoy a sunset.

As I saw the boat returning, I went to help out with the boat recovery as it returned through the boat channel to the tractor. Heard that fishing is usually really good around here but only managed a groper and a few blue cod today.

Got reacquainted with all the gear setting up camp. Had plenty of the day left to enjoy the area, another good bialetti coffee and a great sunset. A top day all round.


Shaza ……………. Great night stay at Opoutama campsite, free. Early start today as Brent wanted to be on the water to make the most of the good weather. By the time he was fully packed and loaded for overnight trip staying somewhere on the Mahia Peninsula it was just after 8am.

Behind the dunes at Mahanga beach
He was on the water by 8.10am. Table Cape (far left) 2 hours paddle away.

I went back to the camp and had my breakfast before setting off to Mahia for a look and see if i could contact Brent. In Mahia they were having a Market Day down by the beach, so parked up and had a look around the market.

Mahia Beach

I grabbed a coffee before heading towards the Mahia East Boat ramp on the other side of the peninsula. I tried making contact with Brent on VHF on the way around, but wasn’t able to contact him. Beautiful drive around, people collecting shell fish all along the beach. I got to the boat ramp, still unable to contact Brent. Unsure about the road further on I decided to go back to Opoutama camp and set up for the day and night solo!


28 October, 2019

Ahuriri Bay to Nuhaka River (via Opoutama)

Distance 32.4km Time 5.4hrs Speed 6.0km/hr

After a good nights sleep, woke at my usual 0430. Decided I may as well get going and enjoy the sunrise on the water. It’s only about 4 hours to Opoutama where Shaz stayed another night. I should be there by smoko.

Launched when I had enough light to weave my way out through the rocks into Ahuriri Bay. Turned to face Portland Island and a beautiful sunrise developing through the gap between Portland Island and Ahuriri Point. Always a great start to the day.

The calm morning and low swell made the short cut between Black Reef and Hekerangi Point easy to negotiate. A couple of young seals were play fighting on top of the large rock at the end of the Point as I passed a few meters away.

Contrasting with the east side; the western shoreline of the Peninsula, all the way to Long Point is a continuous line of limestone cliffs. Remarkably though, a beautiful secluded beach (Ahimanawa), recessed into the cliffs, appeared just before Long Point. Good to know if I’m ever back this way looking for shelter or a camping option.

Swung around between Long Point and its associated outcrops watchful of the swirling surge around the rocks. Just around the Point, the beach access at Kinikini Point was clear with farm dwellings scattered on the hills above. Another landing option on this side of the Peninsula. Beyond Kinikini the limestone cliffs continued, in the main, all the way to Mahia Beach.

Could make a direct course for Opoutama now, about 2 hours away. The morning remained calm as I cut across the bay and landed at the shallow Opoutama beach at mid tide. A guy sidled up and asked if I was the bloke paddling around Table Cape yesterday. He was one of the many shellfish gatherers I had seen. He was very interested on our trip and helped carry Secala up the beach, surprised at how heavy the laden kayak was. He said there were mussels on the rocks just off Opoutama beach and that he would get some for us.

I wanted to make more progress today but had no idea where the next vehicle access points would be along this section of coast. Decided to spend a couple of hours on the road doing a coastal reccie towards Wairoa. The alternative was to “wing it” and stay loaded up for another impromptu overnighter somewhere.

Our drive uncovered only one exit point at the Nuhaka River bridge along the road to Wairoa. It is a 7 hour paddle to Wairoa which was a stretch now that it was well after lunch when we got back to Opoutama. Nuhaka river is only 1.5 hours along the coast and offered some enticing variation of negotiating a small river bar and river paddle. If the river bar looked too treacherous, I would have plenty of time to return to Opoutama, as a last resort.

An unloaded Secala glided easier through the water as I hugged the shore towards Nuhaka River. Shaz pulled up in the camper as the road reached the shoreline where I happened to be paddling. That hasn’t happened for a while!

Approaching Nuhaka River

The river bar looked manageable. Helmet on now, I aimed for the channel between the breakers over the bar and shoreline, hoping to time my run through the entrance. Staying very close to the shore and while just rounding the entrance, I got blindsided on the hip as a surge picked up the stern and flipped me over. In shallow water, I could easily stand and drag Secala up the beach and re-launch into the river.

A nice 2km paddle up the river past several whitebaiters to where Shaz was waiting at the bridge.

Railway bridge over Nuhaka River
Shaz meeting me at Nuhaka Bridge – 2km up the river.

At low tide now, the exit was a little muddy but an easy exit up the river bank to the camper. A 10 minute drive back down the road for another night at Opoutama camp. We were greeted with a bowl of beautifully cooked mussels from our motorhome neighbours. Amazing!


Shaza …………… Could have slept in this morning but wouldn’t you know it, because I could, I didn’t!
Coffee for one this morning and as much as I hate to admit it Brent you were right to bring the small Bialettii coffee pot!
Got an email from inReach saying Brent was out of surf zone at 5.51am, at least he can get an early start when he’s not waiting for me!
I have put some pin wheel scones in the oven for Brent’s morning tea when he arrives! 

Arriving at Opoutama. Long Point in the distance.

He landed on the beach around 10am, scones almost ready! Took them out of oven and went down to help him up with all his gear. A guy came down and helped him up the beach with his kayak as the tide was way out! I made him a cup of tea and we sat outside in the sun enjoying our morning tea. 

Brent wanted to go for a drive to check out where he could come in next and that I could get to easily enough. If possible to get back on the water today!
We drove around the coast road toward Nuhaka, but nowhere around there with beach access. Kept on driving towards Wairoa, went down by river mouth to check the possible entry into the river mouth! Heading back Brent wanted to check the river mouth area a Nuhaka, but couldn’t see that far. Time was ticking by and he wanted to make the best of the fine weather, as tomorrow didn’t sound to promising.
Brent decided to leave and head for Nuhaka and come up the river to the bridge where I would pick him up.
Kept an eye on inReach to see where he was which gave me an idea of when he should be near the river mouth. I got to Nuhaka River mouth around 4pm, Brent rang to say that he was crossing the bar into the river and wouldn’t be long. He finally came around the bend on the river near the bridge at 4.27pm landing on the river edge at 4.30pm.

It was very muddy there but he managed his way through and pulled his kayak up the river bank. So good having the outside shower connection on the camper makes washing the kayak down much easier. Drove back to Opoutama camp to stay the night, a lot quieter here tonight as everyone has gone home except for one other motorhome! Very nice people, the guy that helped Brent up with his kayak this morning and was very intrigued by what he was doing. He got some fresh mussels from the beach today and brought some over for us, that he had cooked up in some nice German white wine sauce! It looked very nice, all yours Brent as I don’t eat them. Such a nice thing to do!


29 October, 2019

Nuhaka River to Wairoa

Distance 32.8km Time 6.7hrs Speed 4.9km/hr

An early start for Shaz today as I wanted to make good progress around the Bay. Got to Nuhaka Bridge at 0700 and during set up a guy (Blane) waltzed up the river bank with his whitebait net and offered us his mornings catch. Amazing generosity. We got a cup of whitebait for dinner. Blane had spent time by the river before heading off to work. He pointed to the terrain way inland that was shaped like the profile of a face, which was where he worked. A great start to the day.

I launched into the river at high tide avoiding a muddy entry into Secala and hoped that the increased water over the bar would make this crossing a little easier too.

Heading down the Nuhaka River

Greeted the whitebaiters on the river bank again before successfully exiting through the river mouth and bar, hugging the west bank this time.

Nuhaka River entrance and bar

A westerly headwind was due today. My first destination is Wairoa, normally about a 5 hour paddle along 30km of monotonous brown gritty sand beach. Shaz would suss out the best exit point at Wairoa and guide me in when I get there. And also check out the vehicle access down to Waihua Beach where I hoped to push on to later today.

Being able to paddle within 100m of the beach is an enjoyable contrast to west coast beaches where a much larger margin is necessary to stay clear of the outer sand bars. I was to find out however, that there were dangers for the unwary. On a couple of occasions along this shore there were clearly reefs right in my path, about 100m off the dumping shore. These only presented themselves occasionally as the bigger waves, of a bigger sets, rolled through. These waves rose from a flat surface and within seconds curled up into a tumbling mass towards the shore. When they appeared ahead I marked a point on the very distant shore to ensure I skirted behind them in case I got caught unawares. Well, of course, on one occasion I let my guard slip and made no offshore compensation! Realising on my port side that I was directly in the pathway of a rapidly rising wall of water and having no time to react, I was lucky that this was the smaller of the two waves heading my way, as it rolled under me. The second wave was huge but I had more time to react breaking into a sprint and turning hard left to meet it. Sliced up the face at an angle and caught the top as it broke. Thankfully over the crest, and slamming back down to a horizontal and upright position. I was so unprepared I had my skirt unhitched and besides getting drenched, I got a couple of inches of water in the cockpit. Amateur!! Lost my drink bottle from under the bungees and my VHF got swept overboard. Luckily I always tether it off and it was in its waterproof cover. Mini crisis averted; and attention re-centered.

The forecast westerly breeze had set in, that slowed me down and extended my ETA at Wairoa by more than an hour and half. Got a few waves from surfcasters along the beach as I’m sure we were, at least for a while, a mutual distraction. Approaching the Wairoa River bar, Shaz got a visual on me and directed me to Whakamahi Beach on the west side of the river. Even though I gave the river bar a wide berth it was still a lumpy ride until clear of the influence of the river. Headed now into where Shaz was standing and landed easy enough in the low dumpers. Shaz had parked the camper in a nice spot just behind the beach dunes.

Arriving at Whakamahi Beach
Whakamahi Beach looking west towards Napier
Looking back towards Wairoa and Mahia Peninsula (in the distance)

Further progress today was called off as Shaz found that she could not get access down Waihua Beach road in our camper and the westerly was now enough to make the trip to the next access point at Mohaka River a bit too much of a challenge today. Decided to enjoy our little freedom camping spot for the rest of the day, finished off with a big beautiful whitebait fritter. Thanks Blane!

Our camp at Whakamahi Beach just west of Wairoa.

Shaza ……………. Up early this morning, to get and early start. Stopped at the lookout point on the top of hill that looks down to the Opoutama and Mahia bays where Brent took a couple of photos.

Opoutama lookout looking along the Opoutama beach towards Mahia Beach
View towards Long Point and the top of Mahia Peninsula

Arrived at Nuhaka river by bridge and started to unpack all the gear when I noticed a white-baiter walking back up from the river. I asked him if he had had any luck, he replied “yeah enough for a feed”. He then asked ‘do you want them’, I said no thanks! He said ‘nah you can have them, I don’t mind, it’s enough for a feed.’ I said thank you that would be lovely! Such a kind thing to do, he goes to catch whitebaid before work in the mornings. Said that you’ll have to clean out all the weed and rubbish from them, didn’t mind doing that. 

So once again Blane, thank you so much, they were delicious; its been such a long time since we have had any. 
Brent finished packing his kayak, and was on the river by 7.33am.

I set off for Wairoa, got diesel, went to dump station and got fresh drinking water. Then drove onto Waihua Beach to check it out as Brent wanted to come in there later. Got there and turned onto the road, saw a lady standing by the fence of her property. I stopped and asked about access to the beach, she said yes that is the way! I asked if it would be alright to go down in the camper van and she said not really only good for smaller vehicles for now! So turned around and headed back to Wairoa, drove down to the river mouth and made a coffee. I decided to go on further down the road along the coast where there was a freedom camping spot. I thought it looked like a good spot for Brent to come in rather than try the river mouth.
Contacted him on the VHF, explained about Waihua Beach and made the suggestion, about coming in here a Wairoa. He was happy with that idea but I just needed to guide him into the beach. While waiting I did a little washing and made a make-shift clothes line, then cleaned the whitebait in the river water that we collected from the Nuhaka river. Now I can relax and read until he arrives!

My make shift clothes line, perfectly place drift wood!

Around 2pm I went for a walk down the beach and then made contact with Brent as I could see him coming in! I guided him into the beach, successfully as there was a bit of an under toe at 2.16pm. 

I made a coffee and snacks (cheese, crackers, pickles, cut up orange and yummy strawberries) and sat at the tables provided along the beach. Took a selfie of us both on this beautiful sunny (a little windy) beach. 

Brent pulled the kayak and gear up the beach to the camper van to dry stuff out! 
Spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing until it was time to cook those beautiful white-bait! I made one big fritter each, oh so good!

1 cup of whitebait
Home sweet home for the week

Weather forced Brent off the water so decided to spend the last few days of this trip doing a reccie down the Hawkes Bay and Wairarapa coast.