26 December – 01 January, 2020
The Christmas break has come around again. Last year we based ourselves at Tutukaka campground in a tent. This year we have the luxury of our new campervan.
In contrast to last year, the weather forecasts in this next neck of the woods are highly variable, so paddle time could be limited. Not to worry …….. this is a terrific part of the country to relax and explore.
THIS TRIP: Akitio to Sandy Bay – 4 paddle days
Overall Distance: 134.0km Time: 21.9hrs Ave Speed: 6.1km/hr
Thursday, 26 December, 2019
Akitio to Mataikona
Boxing Day and not fully energised to get on the road from New Plymouth even though todays forecast in the Wairarapa is the best for a few days. Tomorrow afternoon winds at Castle Point are forecast to ramp up to 25+kts from the NW (offshore).
Arrived at Akitio just after 1500hrs meaning a paddle start at around 1600hrs. Too late to get to Castle Point (6 hours away) today. Decided to get on the water and get as far as I can, then find a beach to camp out on, leaving only about a couple of hours paddle to Castle Point tomorrow before the predicted offshore winds kick in. The most likely target today is the Mataikona area and find a good landing.
The conditions are perfect at Akitio with the NE following breeze true to forecast. An easy launch in the lee of the adjoining reef yet still managed a wet start as the laden Secala nosed through the small surf. Swung around the reef and Akitio campground, where Shaz would be staying tonight, and set to hug the shoreline towards Owahanga. The distinctive Castle Rock is now easily made out in the distance, for the first time.
Even with a favourable breeze, I was conscious of the limited hours left in the day, so kept my pace up to ensure I gave myself enough time to find and set up a camp in daylight. With sunset at 2050hrs, I set a paddle deadline of about 2000hrs. This should easily get me to Mataikona, maybe a bit further.
This section of coast consisted completely of rolling hill pasture. Sheep and beef country. Passing close by Owahanga noticed the easterly swell picking up to 2m and by the time I reached Mataikona there was a good surge crashing over the rocky shoreline.
Preferring to avoid a rocky landing in these conditions, I turned to paddle back for a look at the beach just north of the river that has a reef offering some protection from the swell. Saw a much easier and softer beach landing here; and the added bonus of being pretty remote.
Easy landing and set up camp. Glad to have packed some storm tent pegs for pitching the tent on sand.
Sat on the beach with a tasty dehydrated chicken tikka masala and coffee watching the surf in the fading light. Perfect!
Spark is offering one bar reception here, so caught up with Shaz and checked tomorrow’s forecast. Light N turning strong NW in the afternoon. Perfect! A casual breakfast and decamp before an easy 2 hour paddle to Castle Point in the morning. Shaz would take longer to drive from Akitio than I would take to paddle to Castle Point.
Shaz ………..
26 December 2019 (Boxing Day)
On the road again today heading for Akitio. Left late around 10am, late night last night (Christmas Day) to much boozing with the boys!
Arrived at Akitio at 3.15 pm, Brent a little annoyed that he didn’t go to bed earlier last night! But hey it was Christmas!!
The weather is going to turn bad tomorrow, so wants to get on the water today if he can. After assessing the situation he decides to go for it and stay over night on a beach somewhere along the coast. So I help him get stuff ready, unload the camper and he loaded up the kayak with all his overnight gear while I got some food ready for him. He was all sorted and on the water by 4.12pm!
Brent told me to stay the night here in Akitio at the campground which I have done $18 for the night on a non powered site. Campsite right next to the beach, watched Brent until he disappear down the coast line.
Friday, 27 December, 2019
Mataikona to Castle Point
Woke at my usual 0430. Slept well in the tent. No doubt catching up from last night. “In no rush this morning” I told myself, so rolled over and feigned sleep. At 0500 the tent started flapping which I tried to ignore. Moments later; more intent flapping. Bugger!
Got up to see and feel a steady offshore breeze out through Mataikona valley. Winds possibly ahead of schedule. Decided to pack up and get on the water asap without breakfast. So much for the casual start! One thing for sure around here ……. Wairarapa (esp Castle Point) + strong offshore wind = stay off the water
Surf was easy but managed to perfectly time a full frontal as Secala nosed through the low shore break.
Familiar offshore wind gusts through Mataikona Valley but OK. When away from the influence of the valleys, a northerly wind steadily increased, as I tried to hug the shore as best I could.
Aimed for the lee of Castle Point once I figured I had given enough respect to the offshore tending wind through Castle Point bay.
Under the lee of Castle Point everything flattened out. Very cool arriving right under one of NZ’s iconic land marks. The landing was as smooth as a lake.
NW winds steadily picked up during the morning though, to well over 30kts. Scary stuff. Glad my instincts kicked in to get on the water early at Mataikona.
Had to drag the laden Secala 100m or so along the beach to where we hoped to park the camper for a night or two. A fisherman called out from his fishing boat parked on the beach (see above) offering a ride on his ute. Another car driving along the sandy isthmus and stopped for a chat. A lot of interested and interesting people out there.
Paddling is out tomorrow according to the forecast.
27 December 2019
Late waking up this morning, so late leaving for Castle Point oops! Left Akitio at 7.39am and arrived at Castlepoint at 10.30am.
Brent was waiting for me! He had texted me but couldn’t read as I was driving, to say that the freedom camping parks had almost all gone! There was a couple of parks left, but not big enough for the van to fit. I just waited patiently and sure enough one came up! The turn over for parks here is amazing, coming and going all day! Brent has left his gear outside just in front of the camper, as to windy to put up top. Made a cup of tea and chilled for a bit, then went for a walk to the store about 10 – 15 minutes away and got some eggs and crackers. The store was so busy with people ordering takeaways and dining in! The sea is very choppy, not good for Brent at all! Brent went for a long walk and I stayed with his gear being outside! Plenty of people looking for a park for the night, self contained vehicles only……. yeah right! They have the sticker on them, but I doubt it very much that they are! The wind is so bad that the sand is swirly around going everywhere, including the van! Thank god we brought a Dyson vacuum cleaner. I cooked stir fry pork and rice for dinner, in our nice dry camper van! All the others were standing outside behind their vans cooking, not a pleasant time I’m sure! Couldn’t watch the news tonight as the satellite dish couldn’t pick up a signal, so plenty of reading was done before bed time. An amazing sunset tonight, everyone one was taking photos! I tried using my camera, still haven’t mastered the technique of using it probably! I should have taken some on my cellphone also, but didn’t.
Shaz ………
28 December 2019
Slow start to the day; windy and raining most of the night. Rather boring really as not much to do here and parks to narrow to have awning out to have the door open. The weather gradually got better as the day went on! By late afternoon the conditions have improve considerably, hopefully Brent will get on the water tomorrow!
Heading to Flat Point, looking forward to seeing Karen and Lance! Over the years I have heard so much about their place there!
Sunset not so good tonight, but the light house looked amazing. Tried the camera again without success, got one on cellphone which was ok!
Sunday, 29 December, 2019
Castle Point to Flat Point
Up at 0400 for an early start. Drybags prepared for potential solo overnighter. Usual morning breakfast routine and weather check. One weather forecast had now changed to southerly 15-20kts. Based on recent experiences, that could mean anything from 15-30kts. Gun shy now. Wanted to wait for daylight so I could have a look at the conditions. At sunrise a moderate NW offshore was blowing out the bay. This was not forecast but could be just a land breeze?
Decided to wait for a couple of hours to see how things shaped up and if the predicted SW would kick in. By 0900 the southerly had arrived but was light. Conditions were too good to squander. Was prepared to come ashore along the way, if necessary, to wait out a southerly, or even camp the night. Planned with Shaz to meet her at Riversdale (4 hour paddle) to reassess plans …….. if I get there!
Been keen on getting to Flat Point for some time now as Shaz’s previous employers Karen and Lance have a house there, and since they left New Plymouth for Masterton some years ago, we have not seen them. There has been an open invitation to visit them since they left. Getting to them by kayak is probably not how they expected visitors to arrive!
Loaded Secala up and launched under the lighthouse at 1000hrs.
Rounded the magnificent Point and along the cliffs with minimal buffeting off the cliffs. Chatted with a crayfisherman who asked where I was off to. A little surprised that I was going so far, and with a “Good onya”; wished me luck.
Set a steady pace and headed around Castle Rock for shoreline of Christmas Bay.
Followed typical Wairarapa hilly dry stock pasture to Riversdale. Occasional farm houses. Plenty of places to pull into a remote beach if necessary. Paying the price now for applying ordinary sunblock earlier this morning rather than my usual Island Tribe. This was now running into the corner of my eyes with sweat. The southerly 8-10kts has subsided and started backing to the East as I approached Riversdale providing evidence maybe, that the forecasted stronger southerly would not eventuate. I was about 30 minutes behind my estimated 4 hours to Riversdale now.
At Riversdale chatted with Shaz by VHF to say I would continue on to Flat Point and be there in about 3.5 hours ……….. and reminded her to put a beer in the fridge. By Uruti Point the wind had backed further to a NE assist which eased the paddling effort. The next prominent landmark was Uruti Point that looked particularly messy as I got closer. Swell now from the NE & SE and the wind over the shoals and reef edge made it difficult to size up a good track through the turbulence. If in doubt, stay out; is the mantra. Still got surprised by some peaking reef breaks justifying the decision to stay further out. Latched on to a line of cray pots that, as usual, provided a good guide on the right line to take around the reef.
There were many isolated reefs between Uruti Point and Flat Point that, in isolation, were easy enough to negotiate. Had to be watchful of the rocks that still lurked just under the surface.
Whenever paddling, particularly close in to shore, its often a challenge trying to make out your destination against distant points of land. On this occasion I had three points fairly close to each other to choose from. Only one of these points, the closest one, had a low lying shoreline. Figuring that Flat Point was named for a reason, I was a little confused when it became clear that this one wasn’t my destination. The next two headlands were steep to the waters edge. All became clear as I rounded these points and the very low lying Flat Point was finally exposed.
Approaching Flat Point and still a couple of kilometres away, I saw a fishing boat arrive back at the beach and get recovered by a tractor. This gave me a lead on where to land and where the nearest vehicle access would be. Shaz had just arrived as I did, but could not get close to the beach with the van.
The shore is protected by a large reef that extends out and around the entire point. Found what I thought the best lead into the beach and cruised in through low surf. Pleased to have made it this far after a dubious start to the day.
Moments later Lance cruised onto the beach in his 4WD with Shaz, a big smile and a cold beer. What a welcome!
Local tips:
The reef offers shore break protection at high tide up to a 2m swell.
Even the cray fishermen don’t go out in the bay in a NW.
Can easily paddle through channel between reef and Point during most tides (esp. low) during swells less than 2m.
Shaz ………
29 December 2019
Slept in this morning, wind still up! Brent decided to give it a go and loaded up the kayak with overnight gear just in case!
He was on the water by 9.50am from Castlepoint heading for Flat Point wind permitting, but to check in at Riversdale first.
Brent asked me to get some photos from the cliffs! I got as far as the lighthouse and saw him coming around the corner, there was no way that I was going to make it to the cliffs in time for photos.
Took what I could and then ran down the walkway to the bottom, across the sand up to where the camper was parked thinking that I could get a photo of him coming across past the inlet, but no he was to fast ……… missed him! Took a couple of photos, close up of the lighthouse also!
Cleaned up and sorted before leaving the car park, drove down to the beach front and parked up there for half and hour ………. so peaceful!
Left Castlepoint for Riversdale a 49 minute drive. Arrived at Riversdale around 12.30pm and parked up near a tree for a little bit of shade!
Just in front of me on the other side of the fence is a Caravan that sells coffee (Alter Eco Coffee). The coffee was great and they had food available also (GF, Dairy free, vegan) raw organic food.
OMG, if you don’t have a 4 wheel motorbike here at Riversdale you don’t fit in ……. they’re everywhere!
Around 2.30pm Brent contacted me on VHF to say he was going to go onto Flat Point. Great, so I headed off to Masterton to empty tanks, fill water tank, get diesel and top up supplies. Brent messaged me to say that he would be at Flat Point by 5.30pm, I replied to say that I didn’t think I would be there by then as its a 1 hour drive from Masterton to Flat Point. Great road until you hit the gravel road, slows you down a bit! Amazing views from the top of the hills above looking down over towards Flat Point.
Arrived at Karen and Lance Scott’s at 5.50pm, then had to find Brent who was on the beach somewhere! There was no direct assess to the beach from the road. Lance and I drove down to the beach in his 4 wheel drive truck, through a locked gate to the beach. Brent was just where Lance thought he would be unloading his gear!
Good old Lance had a couple of cold one’s (beer’s) in a little chiller bag for Brent! We loaded all his gear into the back of Lance’s truck! Lance went and asked the guy who lives near the beach if Brent could leave his kayak by his place! Not problem then drove back up the beach onto their beach house. There are always people who want to know what Brent is doing, and listen with great interest!
It was so nice seeing everyone again Karen, Lance, their daughter Tracey, her husband and children, also Karen and Lance’s mum’s!
So nice sitting out on the deck having a drink with them all and catching up, followed by a lovely steak dinner. Early night for everyone, it’s been a long day!
30 December 2019
Slept in this morning, as conditions not good today for kayaking. So nice for a change, lovely being here at Karen and Lance’s place at Flat Point. Nice having a shower in their house as there’s a little bit more room to move!
While Brent went for a walk, I had a little catch up with Karen, so nice. After a coffee and something to eat I decided to go for a walk along the beach myself. Once on the beach I turned to my right to walk along the beach but it soon become apparent this wasn’t a good idea I was walking into a strong southerly wind!
Turned around and walked down the beach towards the spot where Brent came in yesterday! Nice beach – tide starting to go out, the reef becoming more visible now! It’s so quiet and peaceful walking along here, no noise what so ever just the waves breaking against the reef and beach. Walking along I saw a golf ball wedged between to rocks, Lance was saying that there used to be a 9 hole golf coarse between their place and the beach.
Walking along the road back to the house I caught up with Karen, Lance and their friends who had been down further along the beach.
We all went inside for a cup of tea, Karen had baked some scones for her visitors and was now making corn fritters for a late lunch around 2.15pm. Later on Brent went on the 4 wheel motorbike with Lance down to the beach as he was going to dive for paua with Glen.
Karen and I went for a nice long walk along the beach down to where the boys were diving for paua. The paua over here are huge compared to Taranaki!
When the guys got back Brent showed me his hand that he had cut, luckily it didn’t go to deep!
Tonight Karen had cooked a lovely glazed ham with roasted vegetables and peas! So nice of them to invite us for dinner again, such a yummy meal! One thing about staying hear the beach you have early nights!
31 December 2019
Up around 7.30am this morning and Brent had already gone for a walk to check out the weather conditions. Looking out the window it still appears to be windy, bugger! I know he will be a little frustrated, but at the same time he won’t put himself in danger!
Made a coffee and toast, sat in the peace and quiet enjoying my breakfast!
Brent returned from his walk, conditions still the same and not likely to get out today! He said that he saw a seal down on the beach, I asked where but he said it had gone now! Decided to go for a walk myself and took my camera with me! Walking along the beach is so peaceful no one around for miles! Flat Point there is no tourists, no noisey 4 wheel motorbikes going up and down the beach, enough space between beach houses that you don’t annoy each other.
Talking to Karen and Lance there is a real feel of community spirit here, everyone gets together for special occasions!
Walking along the beach taking photos of the waves crashing against the rocks, beautiful morning!
As I was walking I saw something move on the beach it was a seal lying in the sun! If he hadn’t moved his head I’m not sure that I would have realised that it was a seal! I took a few photos of him without getting to close! He didn’t move, but was keeping an eye on me the whole time moving his head just watching!
I carried on down the beach and then back up the metal track and climbed over the fence, and back to the camper van. Brent looks like he has gone for another walk somewhere!
Betty and Marion saw me and asked if I’d like a cup of tea or coffee as everyone else had gone for a walk. Just lovely ladies, talked about their trips here to Flat Point over the years with Karen and Lance and how much they love coming here!
Went back to the van and Brent was back, I made some scones for lunch and just relaxed outside with the awning up!
Karen, Lance and all the family went down to the beach so the kids could go swimming! Great day for it, the kids had a ball!
Brent went off with a bag in hand to pick up rubbish on the beach, however this is one of the cleanest beaches I’ve ever seen! Had another walk myself and came across the family at the beach, Karen decide to walk back with me.
Brent got all his gear ready and took it down to his kayak on Lance’s 4 wheel motorbike ready for the morning as the weather is going to be good for some of the day.
Tonight we had another lovely meal with the Scott’s family, not sure if anyone stayed up until midnight to see the New Year in or not! Glen made some yummy Paua chips!
HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE FOR 2020
Glen’s Paua Chips: Slice paua into strips and cover with ‘FogDog’ Premium Gluten Free shake and bake coating mix, then fry in hot oil until golden careful not to overcook.
Tuesday, 01 January, 2020
Flat Point to Sandy Bay
Karen and Lance have been great hosts for the last 3 nights as we parked our camper outside their house at Flat Point, and a great place for some RnR. The remote beaches offer novelties of big paua shells scattered along the tidal zone and the occasional seal lazing on the beach. The birdlife along the shoreline is prolific with herons, terns, oyster catchers, shearwaters offering Shaz plenty of photographic practice. And the very friendly locals ……. particularly one local who offered more to the naked eye than necessary from her front window. (Found out later that the couple are naturalists)
Went snorklling for paua with Glen, in waist deep water and grabbed a crayfish from amongst the weed (which was returned as it was barely legal). What a treat getting some decent sized paua for a change.
Intending on an early start, I pre-packed Secala down at the dunes yesterday evening, thanking the bach owner as they were getting started with a few NY’s eve bevies.
Up at 0400 and keen to get going. Brekkie down, waiting now for first light (5am) to walk down to the dunes and paddle the channel between the reef and point. The forecasts are variable today; surprise, surprise. Some saying 10kt Sly turning NW 10-15 in the afternoon. Others say light Nly tending Ely. Either way, too good to miss. As is the norm for this section of coast, I am loaded up and fully prepared to pull in somewhere if needed. The next few days forecast are not good so want to get the most out of today.
At the beach there is a light northerly and the tide is mostly out. Easy launch and paddle through the wide channel inside the reef.
Sunrise as I entered the bay towards Honeycomb Rock. As 0630 rolled by I tried to raise Maritime Radio on Ch 67; then 16 to give a TR (trip report). This section of coastline has no cellular coverage at all, so Shaz will not be able to keep track of me most of the day. No response initially from Maritime Radio. Thinking it was a bit too early for them, especially on NY day, I continued paddling. A short while later though, MR called back on 67. After Happy NY’s exchanged, I gave Tora as my destination with an ETA at about 1500hrs and suggested that I may not be in range to close out my TR with my handheld VHF down Tora way.
As agreed with Shaz I sent frequent inReach OK messages that she could get as she passed through possible areas of cell coverage on her road trip.
Retained the tailwind and good speed towards Honeycomb Rock and conscious of maintaining the progress while the going was good. I used Honeycomb lighthouse and the offshore Kahau Rocks transit as a good waypoint marker as I paddled between them. I was about 15 minutes ahead of my schedule. The conditions calmed as I passed Glendu Rocks and on to Pahaoa.
Paddled through Kairingaringa reef just off Pahaoa. Maintaining strategy of staying close to shore. Maritime Radio weather forecast had Nly winds still forecast for the day and these are translating now into the now familiar offshore gusts down through the valleys. The loaded Secala proves very stable as my paddle stroke shorten up to deal with the variable conditions.
Then; contrary to predictions, a very light SE presents itself that rapidly bursts into a strong southerly. Unsure how strong this southerly would get around the exposed Point ahead, I took the opportunity to pull into a tiny beach through the rocks. Tantilisingly close to my destination now (only 6km short of Stony Bay) but still plenty of time in the day. Had been looking for a chance to come ashore anyway to relieve a “pressing” matter as I didn’t think I could hold on till Stony Bay.
Sent Shaz an inReach message as soon as I hit the beach, with a sitrep, in the hope she would receive it before she leaves internet coverage at Carterton.
Coffee time!
Unexpected southerlies tend to be short lived, in my limited experience around here……!! Otherwise it could be an overnighter. Thankfully the southerly backed off after about an hour and I messaged Shaz to say I was hitting the water again. As I launched and made my way towards Te Awaiti the wind eased off completely. That’s the Wairarapa for you!
Looking for a landing now as I am likely to arrive at Stony Bay before Shaz. While passing Te Awaiti a couple of locals were chatting on VHF Ch6 so I made an “all stations” call asking for info on landing options with vehicle access. Got no reply.
Up ahead, where I thought Stony Bay was, a couple of boats were heading for shore though a gap in the reef. An obvious couple of lead poles were positioned on the rocks that guided boats through a gap in the reef. I lined myself up with these and cruised into a perfectly sheltered beach and boat ramp.
It turned out to be called Sandy Bay, according to the local boatie; one bay short of Stony Bay proper. Met and chatted with inquisitive boaties who hadn’t seen a kayak paddle into their harbour before!
Couldn’t raise Maritime Radio to close out my TR. Glad I suggested this to MR earlier.
Local Tips:
Expect winds from all directions and strengths. Forecasts are a guide.
Hug the shore
Always be prepared for an impromptu overnighter
Stoney Bay has a boat ramp but it has a private locked access.
Sandy Bay has a narrow channel (with beacon leads) completely flanked by reefs leading to a fully protected beach. Locals say the channel to Sandy Bay can be narly in rough conditions.
There are more open beach landing options at Te Awaiti and Tora
Shaz ………
1 January 2020 (New Years Day)
Brent was up at 3.55am this morning, itching to get going and make the most of the favourable conditions while they last!
Got up around 8am myself, had some breakfast and then went for a work along the beach taking some last minute photos before leaving this beautiful place today!
Got back around 9.35am and had a shower, then a cup of tea with Karen and family before leaving around 10.30am heading for Tora. Before leaving Lance gave me some paua, that Brent and Glen caught the other day already minced and frozen. I put 3 packs in our freezer and left one out for our dinner tonight.
After saying good bye to everyone I headed for Carterton to empty the tanks, fill up with water, get diesel and supplies from the supermarket. Stopped at the top of the hill and pulled over to take a photo looking down across to Flat Point in the distance.
Brent messaged me there to say that he had pulled into a beach as the southerly wind came up making paddling difficult. He said to hang around in Carterton so I had internet until he messaged back with what he was going to do! Around half hour later he messaged to say that he was going onto Te Awaiti but wasn’t sure if there was a good landing spot there. He said that he might try and go to Stony Bay, but to call him on the VHF along the coast to when I get there!
The road was great until I got to the gravel road, it was awful like a continuous judder bar all along the road! Poor van, everything was rattling and banging driving me mad! Finally got to the turn off at Tora towards Te Awaiti. Driving along the coastal road I saw Brent close to the shore so called him on the VHF. He said that he was going to come into this bay! It turns out this was called Sandy Bay!
I had to park in the parking area outside the closed gate, when I got to him he was already talking to this young guy. He was intrigued as he has never seen a kayak land on the beach here before!
Lots of people interested in how Brent was going to get the kayak up on the roof of the van. Anyway once we packed up, washed down the kayak we set off to camp the night at Te Awaiti reserve camp.
I cooked paua fritters for tea, they were so good! Cooked them just like Karen and Lance said too, delicious guys thanks!
Early to bed tonight, Brent crashed by 7.30pm.
Paua Fritters: 1/2 cup flour, 1 egg and enough milk to mix until a nice sticky consistency not to running add mince paua and one finely chopped onion, salt and pepper to season. Heat oil in a frying pan and cook paua fritters. Simple and yummy!
2 January 2020
Had a sleep in this morning, even Brent did for a change! Brent made a cooked breakfast before we left Te Awaiti beach camp, looks like most people heading home today!
We left Te Awaiti at 9.50am, we drove along to Tora beach to check it out and then back down the judder bar gravel road onto Martinborough.
Brent wanted to drive onto Ngawi and check out the possible landing spots. We were going to stay the night there and check into a camp ground as we need to power up the camper van. It appears that the house battery isn’t charging as it should! Anyway no room, so we headed north! Contacted Eketahuna Camping Ground and they had plenty of power sites tonight, so decided to stay the night there. What a really nice campground, friendly people running it! You just park up, plug into power and they come around introduce themselves and collect your payment $10 per person per night and the showers are free!!!